Patent Application
20150034119
The present invention generally relates to compositions and methods for treating hair, particularly for crosslinking thiol groups in hair that have been exposed to coloring formulations.
Hair coloring is currently a globally accepted fashion phenomenon. Color treatments include hair coloring, highlighting, and bleaching. The coloring products can be categorized in several types, which include permanent, demi-permanent, semi-permanent, and temporary coloring formulations. Permanent hair coloring products make up the majority of the market worldwide.
Significant effort has been directed towards developing various approaches to hair dyeing; these include, oxidative dyes, direct action dyes, natural dyes, metallic dyes and reactive dyes. Many hair coloring formulations, in particular permanent coloring formulations, use reducing agents to break the disulfide bonds in the hair allowing deeper penetration of the hair coloring dyes and bleaching agents into the hair. For example, sodium bisulfite and thioglycolic acid are known reducing agents that are commonly used in these dyes and bleaching agent. Typically, oxidation to restore the reduced bond is partially obtained when hydrogen peroxide is present in the coloring formulation and/or by exposing the hair to atmospheric oxygen. However, this oxidation step is very slow and can leave the hair frizzy and damaged.
“The Reaction Mechanism of Fiber Reactive Dyestuffs with Hair Keratin”, Albert Shansky, American Perfumer and Cosmetics, November 1966, and “Dyeing of Human Hair with Fiber Reactive Dyestuffs”, Albert Shansky, Cosmetics and Toiletries, November 1976, disclose a method of coloring hair by treating the hair for five minutes with a reducing breaking solution (containing thioglycolate, alkali, lithium bromide and urea) followed by rinsing the hair and then treating the hair with a dichlorotriazine fiber reactive dye.
Substantial improvement is needed in the areas of color saturation, color development, precise initial color consistency, improved wash fastness, improved hair condition and levels of hair damage. For example, the attainment of precise initial colors that are retained by the hair for a desirable time period has remained an elusive goal. The coloring formulations also cause severe hair damage, especially when the treatments are repeated. Moreover, various daily actions to the hair, for example hair brushing, hair blow-drying, and sun light exposure cause more damage to the hair.
There is a need for hair formulations and treatments that repair and/or strengthen hair damaged from coloring formulations.
Therefore, it is an object of this invention to provide improved compositions and methods for repairing and/or strengthening damaged hair.
It is also an object of this invention to provide methods for using compositions that repair and/or strengthen hair after and/or during a coloring treatment.
Compositions, kits, and methods for rebuilding the disulfide bonds in hair that are broken during a hair coloring treatment are disclosed. The compositions have similar benefits when used with different color chemical processes, such as bleaching, highlights, lowlights, semi-permanent, demi-permanent, and permanent color.
The compositions contain one or more compounds that covalently crosslink at least two thiol groups in the hair. Under normal hair washing conditions, including shampooing and conditioning, the covalent crosslinks formed are not succeptable to reduction or hydrolysis. Use of the crosslinking compositions prevents the reversion of the hair's disulfide bonds to their reduced (thiol) state, for at least one week, two weeks, three weeks, four weeks, one month, two months, three months, six months eight months, or one year, after at least one application of the crosslinking composition. Optionally, the crosslinking composition is applied at the same time as the hair coloring treatment. Alternatively, the crosslinking composition may be applied after the hair coloring treatment or damage to the hair. For example, the crosslinking compositions can be applied within one week of the hair being damaged, preferably within three days, more preferably within two days, most preferably immediately after application of the coloring treatment.
The term “hair” refers to one or more than one strand of hair, as well as the natural components of hair, such as oil from a body. Hair also refers to virgin hair or processed hair, for example hair that has been exposed to hair waving or hair straightening formulations.
An “effective amount”, e.g., of the crosslinking agent or compositions described herein, refers to an amount of the crosslinking agent in a composition or formulation which, when applied as part of a desired dosage regimen oxidatively crosslinks free thiols in the hair.
“Pharmaceutically acceptable” and “cosmetically acceptable” are used interchangeably and refer to those compounds, materials, compositions, and/or dosage forms which are, within the scope of sound medical judgment, suitable for use in contact with the tissues of human beings and animals without excessive toxicity, irritation, allergic response, or other problems or complications commensurate with a reasonable benefit/risk ratio. More specifically, pharmaceutically acceptable refers to a material, compound, or composition that is suitable for use in contact with the skin, scalp, or hair. Pharmaceutically acceptable materials are known to those of ordinary skill in the art.
“Shampoo”, as used herein, generally refers to a liquid or semi-solid formulation applied to hair that contains detergent or soap for washing the hair.
“Conditioner”, as used herein, generally refers to a formulation (e.g., liquid, cream, lotion, gel, semi-solid) applied to hair to soften the hair, smooth the hair, and/or change the sheen of the hair.
“Analog” and “Derivative” are used herein interchangeably, and refer to a compound that possesses the same core as the parent compound, but differs from the parent compound in bond order, the absence or presence of one or more atoms and/or groups of atoms, and combinations thereof. The derivative can differ from the parent compound, for example, in one or more substituents present on the core, which may include one or more atoms, functional groups, or substructures. In general, a derivative can be imagined to be formed, at least theoretically, from the parent compound via chemical and/or physical processes.
“Electrophilic group” or “electrophilic moiety” are used interchangeably and refer to one or more functional groups or moieties that have an affinity for or attract electrons.
“Michael acceptor”, as used herein, is a species of electrophilic groups or moieties that participates in nucleophilic addition reactions. The Michael acceptor can be or can contain an α,β-unsaturated carbonyl-containing group or moiety, such as a ketone. Other Michael acceptors include pi-bonds, such as double or triple bonds conjugated to other pi-bond containing electron withdrawing groups, such as nitro groups, nitrile groups, and carboxylic acid groups.
“Alkyl”, as used herein, refers to the radical of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic groups, including straight-chain alkyl, alkenyl, or alkynyl groups, branched-chain alkyl, alkenyl, or alkynyl groups, cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, or cycloalkynyl (alicyclic) groups, alkyl substituted cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, or cycloalkynyl groups, and cycloalkyl substituted alkyl, alkenyl, or alkynyl groups. Unless otherwise indicated, a straight chain or branched chain alkyl has 30 or fewer carbon atoms in its backbone (e.g., C1-C30 for straight chain, C3-C30 for branched chain), more preferably 20 or fewer carbon atoms, more preferably 12 or fewer carbon atoms, and most preferably 8 or fewer carbon atoms. In some embodiments, the chain has 1-6 carbons. Likewise, preferred cycloalkyls have from 3-10 carbon atoms in their ring structure, and more preferably have 5, 6 or 7 carbons in the ring structure. The ranges provided above are inclusive of all values between the minimum value and the maximum value.
The term “alkyl” includes both “unsubstituted alkyls” and “substituted alkyls”, the latter of which refers to alkyl moieties having one or more substituents replacing a hydrogen on one or more carbons of the hydrocarbon backbone. Such substituents include, but are not limited to, halogen, hydroxyl, carbonyl (such as a carboxyl, alkoxycarbonyl, formyl, or an acyl), thiocarbonyl (such as a thioester, a thioacetate, or a thioformate), alkoxyl, phosphoryl, phosphate, phosphonate, a phosphinate, amino, amido, amidine, imine, cyano, nitro, azido, sulfhydryl, alkylthio, sulfate, sulfonate, sulfamoyl, sulfonamido, sulfonyl, heterocyclyl, aralkyl, or an aromatic or heteroaromatic moiety.
Unless the number of carbons is otherwise specified, “lower alkyl” as used herein means an alkyl group, as defined above, but having from one to ten carbons, more preferably from one to six carbon atoms in its backbone structure. Likewise, “lower alkenyl” and “lower alkynyl” have similar chain lengths. Preferred alkyl groups are lower alkyls.
The alkyl groups may also contain one or more heteroatoms within the carbon backbone. Examples include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and combinations thereof. In certain embodiments, the alkyl group contains between one and four heteroatoms.
“Alkenyl” and “Alkynyl”, as used herein, refer to unsaturated aliphatic groups containing one or more double or triple bonds analogous in length (e.g., C2-C30) and possible substitution to the alkyl groups described above.
“Aryl”, as used herein, refers to 5-, 6- and 7-membered aromatic rings. The ring may be a carbocyclic, heterocyclic, fused carbocyclic, fused heterocyclic, bicarbocyclic, or biheterocyclic ring system, optionally substituted as described above for alkyl. Broadly defined, “Ar”, as used herein, includes 5-, 6- and 7-membered single-ring aromatic groups that may include from zero to four heteroatoms. Examples include, but are not limited to, benzene, pyrrole, furan, thiophene, imidazole, oxazole, thiazole, triazole, pyrazole, pyridine, pyrazine, pyridazine and pyrimidine. Those aryl groups having heteroatoms in the ring structure may also be referred to as “heteroaryl”, “aryl heterocycles”, or “heteroaromatics”. The aromatic ring can be substituted at one or more ring positions with such substituents as described above, for example, halogen, azide, alkyl, aralkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, cycloalkyl, hydroxyl, alkoxyl, amino, nitro, sulfhydryl, imino, amido, phosphonate, phosphinate, carbonyl, carboxyl, silyl, ether, alkylthio, sulfonyl, sulfonamido, ketone, aldehyde, ester, heterocyclyl, aromatic or heteroaromatic moieties, —CF3, and —CN. The term “Ar” also includes polycyclic ring systems having two or more cyclic rings in which two or more carbons are common to two adjoining rings (the rings are “fused rings”) wherein at least one of the rings is aromatic, e.g., the other cyclic rings can be cycloalkyls, cycloalkenyls, cycloalkynyls, aryls and/or heterocycles, or both rings are aromatic.
“Alkylaryl”, as used herein, refers to an alkyl group substituted with an aryl group (e.g., an aromatic or hetero aromatic group).
“Heterocycle” or “heterocyclic”, as used herein, refers to a cyclic radical attached via a ring carbon or nitrogen of a monocyclic or bicyclic ring containing 3-10 ring atoms, and preferably from 5-6 ring atoms, containing carbon and one to four heteroatoms each selected from non-peroxide oxygen, sulfur, and N(Y) wherein Y is absent or is H, O, (C1-4) alkyl, phenyl or benzyl, and optionally containing one or more double or triple bonds, and optionally substituted with one or more substituents. The term “heterocycle” also encompasses substituted and unsubstituted heteroaryl rings. Examples of heterocyclic ring include, but are not limited to, benzimidazolyl, benzofuranyl, benzothiofuranyl, benzothiophenyl, benzoxazolyl, benzoxazolinyl, benzthiazolyl, benztriazolyl, benztetrazolyl, benzisoxazolyl, benzisothiazolyl, benzimidazolinyl, carbazolyl, 4aH-carbazolyl, carbolinyl, chromanyl, chromenyl, cinnolinyl, decahydroquinolinyl, 2H,6H-1,5,2-dithiazinyl, dihydrofuro[2,3-b]tetrahydrofuran, furanyl, furazanyl, imidazolidinyl, imidazolinyl, imidazolyl, 1H-indazolyl, indolenyl, indolinyl, indolizinyl, indolyl, 3H-indolyl, isatinoyl, isobenzofuranyl, isochromanyl, isoindazolyl, isoindolinyl, isoindolyl, isoquinolinyl, isothiazolyl, isoxazolyl, methylenedioxyphenyl, morpholinyl, naphthyridinyl, octahydroisoquinolinyl, oxadiazolyl, 1,2,3-oxadiazolyl, 1,2,4-oxadiazolyl, 1,2,5-oxadiazolyl, 1,3,4-oxadiazolyl, oxazolidinyl, oxazolyl, oxindolyl, pyrimidinyl, phenanthridinyl, phenanthrolinyl, phenazinyl, phenothiazinyl, phenoxathinyl, phenoxazinyl, phthalazinyl, piperazinyl, piperidinyl, piperidonyl, 4-piperidonyl, piperonyl, pteridinyl, purinyl, pyranyl, pyrazinyl, pyrazolidinyl, pyrazolinyl, pyrazolyl, pyridazinyl, pyridooxazole, pyridoimidazole, pyridothiazole, pyridinyl, pyridyl, pyrimidinyl, pyrrolidinyl, pyrrolinyl, 2H-pyrrolyl, pyrrolyl, quinazolinyl, quinolinyl, 4H-quinolizinyl, quinoxalinyl, quinuclidinyl, tetrahydrofuranyl, tetrahydroisoquinolinyl, tetrahydroquinolinyl, tetrazolyl, 6H-1,2,5-thiadiazinyl, 1,2,3-thiadiazolyl, 1,2,4-thiadiazolyl, 1,2,5-thiadiazolyl, 1,3,4-thiadiazolyl, thianthrenyl, thiazolyl, thienyl, thienothiazolyl, thienooxazolyl, thienoimidazolyl, thiophenyl and xanthenyl.
“Heteroaryl”, as used herein, refers to a monocyclic aromatic ring containing five or six ring atoms containing carbon and 1, 2, 3, or 4 heteroatoms each selected from non-peroxide oxygen, sulfur, and N(Y) where Y is absent or is H, O, (C1-C8) alkyl, phenyl or benzyl. Non-limiting examples of heteroaryl groups include furyl, imidazolyl, triazolyl, triazinyl, oxazoyl, isoxazoyl, thiazolyl, isothiazoyl, pyrazolyl, pyrrolyl, pyrazinyl, tetrazolyl, pyridyl, (or its N-oxide), thienyl, pyrimidinyl (or its N-oxide), indolyl, isoquinolyl (or its N-oxide), quinolyl (or its N-oxide) and the like. The term “heteroaryl” can include radicals of an ortho-fused bicyclic heterocycle of about eight to ten ring atoms derived therefrom, particularly a benz-derivative or one derived by fusing a propylene, trimethylene, or tetramethylene diradical thereto. Examples of heteroaryl include, but are not limited to, furyl, imidazolyl, triazolyl, triazinyl, oxazoyl, isoxazoyl, thiazolyl, isothiazoyl, pyraxolyl, pyrrolyl, pyrazinyl, tetrazolyl, pyridyl (or its N-oxide), thientyl, pyrimidinyl (or its N-oxide), indolyl, isoquinolyl (or its N-oxide), quinolyl (or its N-oxide), and the like.
“Halogen”, as used herein, refers to fluorine, chlorine, bromine, or iodine.
The term “substituted” as used herein, refers to all permissible substituents of the compounds described herein. In the broadest sense, the permissible substituents include acyclic and cyclic, branched and unbranched, carbocyclic and heterocyclic, aromatic and nonaromatic substituents of organic compounds. Illustrative substituents include, but are not limited to, halogens, hydroxyl groups, or any other organic groupings containing any number of carbon atoms, preferably 1-14 carbon atoms, and optionally include one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur, or nitrogen grouping in linear, branched, or cyclic structural formats. Representative substituents include alkyl, substituted alkyl, alkenyl, substituted alkenyl, alkynyl, substituted alkynyl, phenyl, substituted phenyl, aryl, substituted aryl, heteroaryl, substituted heteroaryl, halo, hydroxyl, alkoxy, substituted alkoxy, phenoxy, substituted phenoxy, aroxy, substituted aroxy, alkylthio, substituted alkylthio, phenylthio, substituted phenylthio, arylthio, substituted arylthio, cyano, isocyano, substituted isocyano, carbonyl, substituted carbonyl, carboxyl, substituted carboxyl, amino, substituted amino, amido, substituted amido, sulfonyl, substituted sulfonyl, sulfonic acid, phosphoryl, substituted phosphoryl, phosphonyl, substituted phosphonyl, polyaryl, substituted polyaryl, C3-C20 cyclic, substituted C3-C20 cyclic, heterocyclic, substituted heterocyclic, aminoacid, peptide, and polypeptide groups.
Heteroatoms, such as nitrogen, may have hydrogen substituents and/or any permissible substituents of organic compounds described herein that satisfy the valences of the heteroatoms. It is understood that “substitution” or “substituted” includes the implicit proviso that such substitution is in accordance with permitted valence of the substituted atom and the substituent, and that the substitution results in a stable compound, i.e. a compound that does not spontaneously undergo transformation such as by rearrangement, cyclization, elimination, etc.
“Polymer”, as used herein, refers to a molecule containing more than 10 monomer units.
“Water-soluble”, as used herein, generally means at least 50, 75, 100, 125, 150, 200, 225, or 250 g is soluble in 1 L of water at 25° C.
The formulations and methods disclosed herein are concerned with treating hair that has reduced thiol groups. In particular, the methods relate to rebuilding the disulfide bonds in hair that has been damaged by coloring formulations.
A. Crosslinking Formulations
The formulations contain one or more crosslinking agents (also referred to herein as “compounds” or “active agents”). Generally, the formulation, when applied as part of a desired treatment regimen, oxidatively crosslinks at least 1%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 55%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, or 100% of the free thiols in the hair.
The crosslinking agents (also referred to herein as “compounds” or “active agents”) contain at least two reactive moieties capable of reacting with reduced thiol groups. The reactive moieties can be electrophilic moieties or free radical forming groups. Each reactive moiety is capable of reacting with a free thiol group in the hair to form a covalent bond. In some embodiments, the reactive moiety and a thiol group react to form a carbon-sulfur (C—S) covalent bond. The C—S covalent bond is more stable than the disulfide (S—S) bond. The covalent bond formed between the reactive moiety and the thiol is hydrolytically and reductively stable.
The crosslinking agents can be combined with one or more pharmaceutically acceptable carriers and/or excipients that are considered safe and effective to human hair and/or human scalp, and may be administered to an individual's hair without causing undesirable biological side effects, such as burning, itching, and/or redness, or similar adverse reactions. The formulations may further contain an excipient that renders the formulations neutral pH, or a pH ranging from about pH 3 to about pH 12, preferably from pH 5 to pH 8.
The crosslinking agent is typically present in an amount ranging from about 0.01 wt % to about 50 wt % of the formulation, preferably from about from about 1 wt % to about 25 wt % of the formulation, more preferably from about 1 wt % to about 15 wt %, most preferably from about 1 wt % to about 10 wt %. Typically, the crosslinking agent is from about 2.5 to 3 wt % of the formulation.
The crosslinking agent is stable in aqueous solution for a period of at least 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, or 12 months or longer at pH of 6 to 8 and a temperature of about 25-30° C., preferably about 25° C. “Stable” as used herein with respect to shelf-life means that at least 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, or 95% of the reactive moieties are intact or to the extent that the reactive moieties react with water, the resulting product is also electrophilic.
a. Crosslinking Agent
The crosslinking agent contains at least two reactive moieties capable of reacting with a thiol. The crosslinking agent optionally contains a linker between the two reactive moieties.
The reactive moieties, upon reaction with thiol groups on the hair follicle, form bonds that are stable, for example, hydrolytically stable. “Stable”, as used in reference to the crosslinks formed between thiol groups on hair follicles means the bonds remain intact for at least 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 45 or 60 days, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, or 12 months, or longer when exposed to water at pH 6-8 at a temperature from about 25° C. to about 100° C., preferably from about 25° C. to about 75° C., more preferably from about 25° C. to about 50° C., more preferably from about 25° C. to about 40° C., most preferably from about 25° C. to about 30° C. In some embodiments, the temperature is about 25° C. It is also preferred that the crosslinking reaction occur around room temperature, for example, from about 20° C. to about 35° C., preferably from about 20° C. to about 30° C., more preferably from about 25° C. to about 30° C.
The crosslinking agents typically have a low molecular weight and are compatible with aqueous or solvent delivery systems. In some embodiments, the compound is water-soluble. The low molecular weight is preferred, as it allows the molecule to diffuse in and out of hair at a reasonable rate. Molecular weights of less than 10,000 Da, 8,000 Da, 6,000 Da, 5,000 Da, 4,000 Da, 3,000 Da, 2,000 Da, or 1,000 Da are preferred. In some embodiments, the molecular weight is less than 1500 Da, preferably less than 800 Da, more preferably less than 500 Da, most preferably less than 350 Daltons to achieve sufficient diffusion rates in conventional aqueous hair care systems.
i. Crosslinking Agents Defined by Formula I
In some embodiments, the crosslinking agents have a structure according to Formula I:
wherein
A, B, C, and D are reactive moieties,
R is a linker,
n is an integer that is ≧1, and
each occurrence of p, q, r, and s is independently an integer from 0 to 25, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 2. The sum of p+q+r+s is equal to or greater than 2
The reactive moieties may be present on any atom of the linker. In some embodiments, the reactive moieties are the same. In some embodiments, one or more of the reactive moieties is different.
ii. Linker
The reactive moieties on the crosslinking agents are preferably linked via a linker. The term “linker”, as used herein, refers to one or more polyfunctional, e.g. bifunctional molecules, trifunctional molecules, tetrafunctional molecules, etc., which can be used to covalently couple the two or more reactive moieties and which do not interfere with the reactive properties of the crosslinking agents. The reactive moieties may be attached to any part of the linker.
Linkers can be a single atom, such as a heteroatom (e.g., O or S), a group of atoms, such as a functional group (e.g., amine, —C(═O)—, —CH2—), or multiple groups of atoms, such as an alkylene chain. Suitable linkers include but are not limited to oxygen, sulfur, carbon, boron, nitrogen, alkoxy, alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, aryl, heterocycloalkyl, heteroaryl, ether, amine, and a polymer.
The linker is optionally independently substituted with one or more substituents including hydrogen, halogen, cyano, alkoxy, alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, aryl, heterocycloalkyl, heteroaryl, amine, hydroxy, formyl, acyl, carboxylic acid (—COOH), —C(O)R1, —C(O)OR1, carboxylate (—COO—), primary amide (e.g., —CONH2), secondary amide (e.g., —CONHR11), —C(O)NR1R2, —NR1R2, —NR1S(O)2R2—NR1C(O)R2—S(O)2R2, —SR1, and —S(O)2NR1R2, sulfinyl group (e.g., —SOR11), and sulfonyl group (e.g., —SOOR11); wherein R1 and R2 may each independently be hydrogen, alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, heterocycloalkyl and heteroaryl; wherein each of R1 and R2 is optionally independently substituted with one or more substituents selected from the group consisting of halogen, hydroxyl, cyano, nitro, amino, alkylamino, dialkylamino, alkyl optionally substituted with one or more halogen or alkoxy or aryloxy, aryl optionally substituted with one or more halogen or alkoxy or alkyl or trihaloalkyl, heterocycloalkyl optionally substituted with aryl or heteroaryl or ═O or alkyl optionally substituted with hydroxyl, cycloalkyl optionally substituted with hydroxyl, heteroaryl optionally substituted with one or more halogen or alkoxy or alkyl or trihaloalkyl, haloalkyl, hydroxyalkyl, carboxy, alkoxy, aryloxy, alkoxycarbonyl, aminocarbonyl, alkylaminocarbonyl and dialkylaminocarbonyl.
In some embodiments, the linker may be an alkoxy, ether, alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, aryl, heterocycloalkyl, heteroaryl, amine, or a polymer. In some embodiments, the linker is not a polymer.
iii. Polymeric Crosslinking Agents
The crosslinking agent can be a polymer. In this form, the linker forms or is the polymer backbone having covalently attached thereto to two or more reactive moieties. Optionally, the polymeric crosslinking agent can have a structure according to Formula I. In some forms, for each occurrence of a monomer unit in the polymer, zero, one, two, three, four, or more reactive moieties can be covalently linked to the monomer. The reactive moieties on each monomer unit in the polymer can be the same or different.
In some embodiments, at least one reactive moiety is present on each monomer unit. Alternately, the reactive moieties may be present on alternate monomer units. In some embodiments, reactive moieties are present on a minimum percentage of the monomer units in the polymer. For example, at least one reactive moiety can be present on 0.1%, 1%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 55%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, or 100% of the monomer units in the polymer. The reactive moieties can be present on any atom on the monomer.
Polymers
The polymer may be functionalized at the termini with one or more of reactive moieties, A-D. Alternatively, the polymer may be functionalized within the polymer backbone. One or more monomers in the polymer may be functionalized so that one or more reactive moieties, A-D, may be introduced (e.g., covalently bound to) using techniques known in the art. The reactive moieties can be introduced onto the monomers before polymerization or grafted onto the polymer backbone after polymerization.
A wide variety of polymers and methods for forming the polymers are known in the art of polymer science. Polymers can be degradable or non-degradable polymers. Polymers can be natural or unnatural (synthetic) polymers. Polymers can be homopolymers or copolymers comprising two or more monomers. In terms of sequence, copolymers can be random, block, or comprise a combination of random and block sequences. The polymers can in some embodiments be linear polymers, branched polymers, or hyperbranched/dendritic polymers. The polymers may also be present as a crosslinked particle or surface functionalized inorganic particle. Suitable polymers include, but are not limited to poly (vinyl acetate), copolymers of styrene and alkyl acrylates, and copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic acid, polyvinylpyrrolidone, dextran, carboxymethylcellulose, polyethylene glycol, polyalkylene, polyaerylates, and polymethacrylates; polyanhydrides; polyorthoesters; polysytyrene (PS), poly(ethylene-co-maleic anhydride), poly(ethylene maleic anhydride-co-L-dopamine), poly(ethylene maleic anhydride-co-phenylalanine), poly(ethylene maleic anhydride-co-tyrosine), poly(butadiene-co-maleic anhydride), poly(butadiene maleic anhydride-co-L-dopamine) (pBMAD), poly(butadiene maleic anhydride-co-phenylalanine), poly(butadiene maleic anhydride-co-tyrosine), poly(bis carboxy phenoxy propane-co-sebacic anhydride) (poly (CCP:SA)), alginate; and poly(fumaric anhydride-co-sebacic anhydride (p[FA:SA]), copolymers of p[FA:SA], polyacrylates and polyacrylamides, and copolymers thereof, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the polymeric linker is preferably water-soluble.
If the linker is a polymeric linker, the polymer is not a polysiloxane, such as an acrylic funtionalized polysiloxane. If the polymeric linker is or contains polyethylene glycol (PEG), the number of ethylene oxide units is less than 20, 15, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, or 4. In some embodiments, it is one, two, or three.
The linker may have one of the following general structures:
For the polymeric structures above, each occurrence of m is independently an integer greater than or equal to 1, such as 1-10 (e.g., oligomer) or greater than 10 (e.g., polymer), such as 10-1000 or greater.
Each occurrence of o is independently an integer greater than or equal to 0, such as 0-100, 0-75, 0-50, 0-40, 0-30, 0-25, 0-20, 0-15, 0-10, or 0-5. In one embodiment, o is from about 1 to about 20, about 1 to about 15, or about 1 to about 10.
ii. Reactive Moieties that React with Thiols
The crosslinking agent contains at least two reactive moieties that react with thiols to form covalent bonds. The reactive moieties are capable of reacting with a thiol group in the hair to form a stable covalent bond. The reactive moiety can be an electrophilic moiety. Alternately, the reactive moiety can be a free radical forming moiety.
The crosslinking agent contains at least two reactive moieties. However, the crosslinking agent may contain three, four, five, six, or greater than six reactive moieties.
The reaction between the reactive moiety and the thiol groups may be initiated at room temperature and pressure when the reactive moiety contacts a thiol group in the hair. In some embodiments, the reaction may require an initiator, such as heat, catalyst, basic conditions, or a free radical initiator. The rate of reaction between the reactive moiety and the thiol may be increased by changes in temperature, pH, and/or addition of one or more excipients, such as a catalyst; however, this is generally not required.
The two or more reactive moieties on the crosslinking agent can be the same. In some embodiments, the two or more reactive moieties are different.
In some embodiments, the reactive moieties are capable of undergoing a conjugate additional reaction. The reactive moieties can independently be a Michael acceptor, a succinimidyl-containing group, a maleimido-containing group, azlactone, a benzoxazinone derivative, vinyl sulfone, vinyl sulfoximine, banzoxazinone, isocyanate, epoxide, an electrophilic moiety containing a leaving group, an electrophilic thiol acceptor, acrylate group, a methacrylate group, a styrene group, an acryl amide group, a methacryl amide group, a maleate group, a fumarate group, an itaconate group, a vinyl ether group, an allyl ether group, an allyl ester group, or a vinyl ester group. In some embodiments, the reactive moiety or moieties are not an aldehyde or carboxylic acid, particularly an unconjugated aldehyde or carboxylic acid.
Michael Acceptor
A “Michael acceptor,” as used herein, is a compound with at least one Michael acceptor functional group with the structure below:
where R3, R4, and R5 taken independently are hydrogen or a group or grouping selected from, but not limited to, alkyl, substituted alkyl, alkenyl, substituted alkenyl, alkynyl, substituted alkynyl, phenyl, substituted phenyl, aryl, substituted aryl, heteroaryl, substituted heteroaryl, halo, hydroxyl, alkoxy, substituted alkoxy, phenoxy, substituted phenoxy, aroxy, substituted aroxy, alkylthio, substituted alkylthio, phenylthio, substituted phenylthio, arylthio, substituted arylthio, cyano, isocyano, substituted isocyano, carbonyl, substituted carbonyl, carboxyl, substituted carboxyl, amino, substituted amino, amido, substituted amido, sulfonyl, substituted sulfonyl, sulfonic acid, phosphoryl, substituted phosphoryl, phosphonyl, substituted phosphonyl, polyaryl, substituted polyaryl, C3-C20 cyclic, substituted C3-C20 cyclic, heterocyclic, substituted heterocyclic, aminoacid, peptide, and polypeptide groups.
Some suitable Michael acceptors include, but are not limited to, molecules in which some or all of the structure above are residues of (meth)acrylic acid, fumaric acid, or maleic acid, substituted versions thereof; or combinations thereof, attached to the Michael acceptor molecule through an ester linkage.
The linker is attached to the Michael acceptor via R3, R4, or R5. In some embodiments, R3, R4, or R5 may be the linker
Vinyl Sulfone
The chemistry of vinyl sulfones with respect to attack by nucleophiles is analogous to that of α,β-unsaturated ketones in that they can undergo a 1,4-type Michael addition without releasing any undesirable by-products.
Vinyl Sulfoximines
The chemistry of vinyl sulfoximines is similar to vinyl sulfones. The N-tosyl sulfoximine group is more electron withdrawing than the phenyl sulfone and therefore the vinyl groups will be more susceptible towards nucleophilic attack. N-substituents can be used to alter the electrophilic potential of the vinyl group.
Electrophilic Moiety Containing a Leaving Group
The reactive moiety may be an electrophile with a leaving group. Electrophile, as used herein refers to one or more functional groups or moieties that have an affinity for or attract electrons. Suitable electrophiles include, but are not limited to, ester moieties (—(CO)—O—R, wherein R is lower alkyl or the like), carbonyl moieties (—C(O)), carboxylic acid or carbonic acid (—COOH or —OCOOH), carbonate moieties (—O—(CO)—O—R, wherein R is lower alkyl or the like), urethane moieties (—O—(CO)—NH—R, wherein R is H, lower alkyl, or the like), substituted urethane moieties (—O—(CO)—NR′—R, where R′ is a nonhydrogen substituent such as alkyl, aryl, alkaryl, or the like), amido moieties (—(CO)—NH—R, wherein R is H, lower alkyl, or the like), substituted amido moieties (—(CO)—NR′—R where R′ is as defined previously), thioester moieties (—(CO)—S—R, wherein R is H, lower alkyl, or the like), sulfonic ester moieties (—S(O)2—O—R, wherein R is H, lower alkyl, or the like), and the like. Other electrophiles will be known to those of ordinary skill in the art of organic chemistry and polymer science and/or can be readily found by reference to the pertinent texts and literature.
The electrophiles preferably contain a leaving group. Suitable leaving groups are well known in the art, see, e.g., “Advanced Organic Chemistry,” Jerry March, 5th Ed., pp. 445-448, John Wiley and Sons, N.Y. Examples of leaving groups include, but are not limited to, halogen, sulfonyloxy, optionally substituted alkylsulfonyloxy, optionally substituted alkenylsulfonyloxy, optionally substituted arylsulfonyloxy. Specific examples of leaving groups include chloro, iodo, bromo, fluoro, methanesulfonyloxy (mesyloxy), tosyloxy, triflyloxy, nitrophenylsulfonyloxy (nosyloxy), bromophenylsulfonyloxy (brosyloxy), hydroxyl, carboxylate, carbonate, phosphate, phosphonate, phosphinate, phosphonium, urethane, urea, amide, imide, amine, ammonium, sulfonato, —N3, CN, RO—, NH2O—, NHRO—, N(R4)2O—, R4CO2—, R4OCO2—, R4NCO2—, R4S—, R4C(S)O—, R4CS2—, R4SC(O)S—, R4SCS2—R4SCO2—, R4OC(S)O—, R4OCS2—, R4SO2—, R4SO3—, R40SO2—, R40SO3—, R4PO3—, R40PO3—, an N-imidazolyl group, an N-triazolyl group, an N-benzotriazolyl group, a benzotriazolyloxy group, an imidazolyloxy group, an N-imidazolinone group, an N-imidazolone group, an N-imidazolinethione group, an N-imidazolinethione group, an N-succinimidyl group, an N-phthalimidyl group, an N-succinimidyloxy group, an N-phthalimidyloxy group, —ON═C(CN)R4, and a 2-pyridyloxy group. R4 is preferably an alkyl group or an aryl group.
Preferably, the leaving group is removed from the reactive moieties and does not result in the formation of side product that disadvantageously affects the reaction between the reactive moieties and the thiol groups or form a material or compound that is unsuitable for contact with skin or hair.
In some embodiments, the leaving group is a halogen.
Electrophilic Thiol Acceptors
Electrophilic thiol acceptors, as used herein, refer to a chemical moiety that reacts with a thiol group so that the sulfur atom of the thiol group becomes covalently bonded to the thiol acceptor. Thiol acceptors are well known in the art. Koval (Reactions of Thiols, Russian Journal of Organic Chemistry, 2007, 43:319-349) discloses several electrophilic thiol acceptors, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.
Electrophilic thiol acceptors, in addition to those listed above, include but are not limited to an alpha-substituted acetyl group with the formula Y—CH2—CO—, wherein Y is a leaving group. Examples of leaving groups include, but are not limited to, Chlorine, Bromine, Iodine, mesylate, tosylate, and the like. If the thiol acceptor is an alpha-substituted acetyl group, the thiol adduct after covalent linkage to the acceptor forms the bond —S—CH2—.
Free Radical-Forming Groups
The crosslinking agent may contain at least two free radical-forming groups that can react with thiols. The free radical-forming groups on the crosslinking agent can be the same. Alternately, the free radical-forming groups may be different. Suitable free radical-forming crosslinking agents include, but are not limited to acrylate groups, methacrylate groups, styrene groups, acryl amide groups, methacryl amide groups, maleate groups, fumarate groups, itaconate groups, vinyl ether groups, allyl ether groups, allyl ester groups, and vinyl ester groups. For example, suitable crosslinking agents include ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, allyl methacrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, triallylamine, tetraallyloxyethane, and di- and triacrylates, mixed acrylates which, as well as acrylate groups, comprise further ethylenically unsaturated groups. Other examples of crosslinking agents include N,N′-methylenebisacrylamide and N,N′-methylenebismethacrylamide, esters of unsaturated mono- or polycarboxylic acids of polyols, such as diacrylate or triacrylate, for example butanediol diacrylate, butanediol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and also trimethylolpropane triacrylate and allyl compounds, such as allyl (meth)acrylate, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, polyallyl esters, tetraallyloxyethane, triallylamine, tetraallylethylenediamine, allyl esters of phosphoric acid and also vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, pentaerythritol diallyl ether, pentaerythritol triallyl ether, pentaerythritol tetraallyl ether, polyethylene glycol diallyl ether, ethylene glycol diallyl ether, glycerol diallyl ether, glycerol triallyl ether, polyallyl ethers based on sorbitol, and also ethoxylated variants thereof. Other examples of crosslinking agents include di- and triacrylates of 3- to 15-tuply ethoxylated glycerol, of 3- to 15-tuply ethoxylated trimethylolpropane, of 3- to 15-tuply ethoxylated trimethylolethane, especially di- and triacrylates of 2- to 6-tuply ethoxylated glycerol or of 2- to 6-tuply ethoxylated trimethylolpropane, of 3-tuply propoxylated glycerol, of 3-tuply propoxylated trimethylolpropane, and also of 3-tuply mixed ethoxylated or propoxylated glycerol, of 3-tuply mixed ethoxylated or propoxylated trimethylolpropane, of 15-tuply ethoxylated glycerol, of 15-tuply ethoxylated trimethyllolpropane, of 40-tuply ethoxylated glycerol, of 40-tuply ethoxylated trimethylolethane and also of 40-tuply ethoxylated trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, allyl methacrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, triallylamine, tetraallyloxyethane, N,N′-methylenebisacrylamide, N,N′-methylenebismethacrylamide, butanediol diacrylate, butanediol dimethacrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, a polyallyl ester, tetraallylethylenediamine, pentaerythritol diallyl ether, pentaerthyritol triallyl ether, pentaerythritol tetrallyl ether, polyethylene glycol diallyl ether, ethylene glycol diallyl ether, glycerol diallyl ether, glycerol triallyl ether, di- and triacrylates of 3- to 15-tuply ethoxylated glycerol, di- and tri-acrylates of 3- to 15-tuply ethoxylated trimethylolpropane, and di- and tri-acrylates of 3- to 15-tuply ethoxylated trimethylolethane.
The reactive free radical moieties may require the presence of one or more initiators. Suitable initiators include, but are not limited to peroxides, hydroperoxides, hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, azo compounds, and redox initiators. Suitable organic peroxides include acetylacetone peroxide, methyl ethyl ketone peroxide, tert-butyl hydroperoxide, cumene hydroperoxide, tert-amyl perpivalate, tert-butyl perpivalate, tert-butyl perneohexanoate, tert-butyl perisobutyrate, tert-butyl per-2-ethylhexanoate, tert-butyl perisononanoate, tert-butyl permaleate, tert-butyl perbenzoate, di(2-ethylhexyl) peroxydicarbonate, dicyclohexyl peroxydicarbonate, di(4-tert-butylcyclohexyl) peroxydicarbonate, dimyristil peroxydicarbonate, diacetyl peroxydicarbonate, allyl peresters, cumyl peroxyneodecanoate, tert-butyl per-3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate, acetylcyclohexylsulfonyl peroxide, dilauryl peroxide, dibenzoyl peroxide, and tert-aryl perneodecanoate. Suitable azo compounds include 2,2′-azobisisobutyronitrile, 2,2′-azobis(2,4-dimethylvaleronitrile) and 2,2′-azobis(4-methoxy-2,4-dimethylvaleronitrile), preferably water-soluble azo initiators, such as, but not limited to, 2,2′-azobis{2-[1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolin-2-yl]propane}dihydrochloride, 2,2′-azobis-(2-amidinopropane) dihydrochloride, 2,2′-azobis[2-(2-imidazolin-2-yl)propane]dihydrochloride and 2,2′-azobis[2-(5-methyl-2-imidazolin-2-yl)propane]dihydrochloride. For the redox initiators, the oxidizing component is at least one of the peroxo compounds indicated above and the reducing component is for example ascorbic acid, glucose, sorbose, ammonium bisulfite, ammonium sulfite, ammonium thiosulfate, ammonium hyposulfite, ammonium pyrosulfite, ammonium sulfide, alkali metal bisulfite, alkali metal sulfite, alkali metal thiosulfate, alkali metal hyposulfite, alkali metal pyrosulfite, alkali metal sulfide or sodium hydroxymethylsulfoxylate.
The crosslinking agent may have any one of the chemical structures shown below:
wherein R is the linker.
In one embodiment, the crosslinking agent has the chemical structure:
The top structure above is referred to as bis-(maleimidoethoxy) ethane. The bottom structure above is referred to as tris-(maleimidoethyl) amine
b. Excipients
The formulations typically contain one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. Cosmetically acceptable excipients include, but are not limited to water, preservatives, antioxidants, chelating agents, sunscreen agents, vitamins, dyes, hair coloring agents, proteins, amino acids, natural extracts such as plant extracts, humectants, fragrances, perfumes, oils, emollients, lubricants, butters, penetrants, thickeners, viscosity modifiers, polymers, resins, hair fixatives, film formers, surfactants, detergents, emulsifiers, opacifying agents, volatiles, propellants, liquid vehicles, carriers, salts, pH adjusting agents (e.g., citric acid), neutralizing agents, buffers, hair conditioning agents, anti-static agents, anti-frizz agents, anti-dandruff agents, absorbents, and combinations thereof.
The formulations can contain at least two or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. In some forms, the formulations contain the crosslinking agent, water, and optionally a preservative and/or fragrance.
The formulation for treating hair may be in any suitable physical form. Suitable forms include, but are not limited to low to moderate viscosity liquids, lotions, milks, mousses, sprays, gels, creams, shampoos, conditioners, and the like. Suitable excipients, such as those listed above, are included or excluded from the hair care formulation depending on the form of use of the formulation (e.g., hair spray, cream, conditioner, or shampoo).
The pharmaceutical excipient is typically present in an amount ranging from about 10 wt % to about 99.99 wt % of the formulation, preferably about 40 wt % to about 99 wt %, more preferably from about 80 wt % to about to about 99 wt %.
i. Surfactants
Surfactants are surface-active agents that are able to reduce the surface tension of water and cause the hair formulation to slip across or onto the skin or hair. Surfactants also include detergents and soap. The surfactants may be amphoteric, anionic, or cationic. Suitable surfactants that may be used in the formulation include, but are not limited to, 3-aminopropane sulfonic acid, almond amide, almond amidopropyl betaine, almond amidopropylamine oxide, aluminum hydrogenated tallow glutamate, aluminum lanolate, aminoethyl sulfate, aminopropyl lauryl glutamine, ammonium C12-15 alkyl sulfate, ammonium C12-15 pareth sulfate, ammonium C12-16 alkyl sulfate, ammonium C9-10 perfluoroalkylsulfonate, ammonium capryleth sulfate, ammonium capryleth-3 sulfate, ammonium monoglyceride sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium isothionate, ammonium cocoyl sarcosinate, ammonium cumene sulfonate, ammonium dimethicone copolyol sulfate, ammonium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, ammonium isostearate, ammonium laureth sulfate, ammonium laureth-12 sulfate, ammonium laureth-5 sulfate, ammonium laureth-6 carboxylate, ammonium laureth-7 sulfate, ammonium laureth-8 carboxylate, ammonium laureth-9 sulfate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, ammonium myreth sulfate, ammonium myristyl sulfate, ammonium nonoxynol-30 sulfate, ammonium nonoxynol-4 sulfate, ammonium oleate, ammonium palm kernel sulfate, ammonium polyacrylate, ammonium stearate, ammonium tallate, ammonium xylene sulfonate, ammonium xylene sulfonate, amp-isostearoyl gelatin/keratin amino acids/lysine hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, amp-isostearoyl hydrolyzed collagen, apricot kernel oil PEG-6 esters, apricot amide, apricot amidopropyl betaine, arachideth-20, avocadamide, avocadamidopropyl betaine, babassuamide, babassuamidopropyl betaine, babassuamidopropylamine oxide, behenalkonium chloride, behenamide, behenamide, behenamidopropyl betaine, behenamine oxide, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, a polyoxyether of lauryl alcohol or ceteareth-20, or combinations thereof.
Suitable anionic surfactants include, but are not limited to, those containing carboxylate, sulfonate and sulfate ions. Examples of anionic surfactants include sodium, potassium, ammonium of long chain alkyl sulfonates and alkyl aryl sulfonates such as sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate; dialkyl sodium sulfosuccinates, such as sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate; dialkyl sodium sulfosuccinates, such as sodium bis-(2-ethylthioxyl)-sulfosuccinate; and alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate. Cationic surfactants include, but are not limited to, quaternary ammonium compounds such as benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, stearyl dimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride, polyoxyethylene and coconut amine. Examples of nonionic surfactants include ethylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol myristate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-4-oleate, sorbitan acylate, sucrose acylate, PEG-150 laurate, PEG-400 monolaurate, polyoxyethylene monolaurate, polysorbates, polyoxyethylene octylphenylether, PEG-1000 cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene tridecyl ether, polypropylene glycol butyl ether, Poloxamer® 401, stearoyl monoisopropanolamide, and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated tallow amide. Examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium N-dodecyl-.beta.-alanine, sodium N-lauryl-β-iminodipropionate, myristoamphoacetate, lauryl betaine and lauryl sulfobetaine.
More than one surfactant may be included in the formulation.
The surfactants are optionally included in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight of the formulation, preferably about 1% to about 10% by weight of the formulation.
ii. Emollients
Emollient refers to a material that protects against wetness or irritation, softens, soothes, coats, lubricates, moisturizes, protects, and/or cleanses the skin. Suitable emollients for use in the formulations include, but are not limited to, a silicone compound (e.g., dimethicone, cyclomethicone, dimethicone copolyol or a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone/vinyldimethicone cross polymer, cyclopentasiloxane polysilicone), polyols such as sorbitol, glycerin, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, polypropylene glycol, 1,3-butane diol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, xylitol; ethylhexyl palmitate; a triglyceride such as caprylic/capric triglyceride and fatty acid ester such as cetearyl isononanoate or cetyl palmitate. In a specific embodiment, the emollient is dimethicone, amidodimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, potassium dimethicone PEG-7 panthenyl phosphate, or combinations thereof. More than one emollient may be included in the formulation.
The emollient is optionally included in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight of the formulation, preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the formulation.
iii. Emulsifiers
The formulations may also contain one or more emulsifiers. Suitable emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, copolymers of an unsaturated ester and styrene sulfonate monomer, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl ester, polyoxyethylene glycol ether of cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, polysorbate-20, ceteareth-20, lecithin, glycol stearate, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-80, or combinations thereof. More than one emulsifier may be included in the formulation.
The emulsifier is optionally included in an amount ranging from about 0.05%-15% by weight of the formulation, preferably from about 0.1%-10% by weight of the formulation.
iv. Preservatives
One or more preservatives may be included in the formulations. Suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, glycerin containing compounds (e.g., glycerin or ethylhexylglycerin or phenoxyethanol), benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc.), sodium benzoate, ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate, and/or grapefruit seed extract, or combinations thereof. More than one preservative may be included in the formulation. Other preservatives are known in the cosmetics industries and include salicylic acid, DMDM Hydantoin, Formaldahyde, Chlorphenism, Triclosan, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea, Sorbic Acid, Methylisothiazolinone, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Quaternium-15, Stearalkonium Chloride, Zinc Pyrithione, Sodium Metabisulfite, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Polyaminopropyl biguanide, Benzalkonium Chloride, Sodium Sulfite, Sodium Salicylate, Citric Acid, Neem Oil, Essential Oils (various), Lactic Acid, and Vitamin E (tocopherol).
The preservative is optionally included in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of the formulation, preferably from about 0.3% to about 3% by weight of the formulation. Preferably, the formulations are paraben free.
v. Conditioning Agents
One or more conditioning agents may be included in the formulations. Suitable conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, silicone-based agents (e.g., silicone quaternium-8), panthenol, hydrolyzed wheat and/or soy protein, amino acids (e.g. wheat amino acids), rice bran wax, meadowfoam seed oil, mango seed oil, grape seed oil, jojoba seed oil, sweet almond oil, hydroxyethyl behenamidopropyl dimonium chloride, aloe leaf extract, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, phytantriol, panthenol, retinyl palmitate, behentrimonium methosulfate, cyclopentasiloxane, quaternium-91, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, and combinations thereof.
The conditioning agent(s) is optionally included in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of the formulation, preferably from about 0.3% to about 3% by weight of the formulation.
vi. Diluents
Diluent, as used herein, refers to a substance(s) that dilutes the crosslinking agent. Water is the preferred diluent. The formulations typically contains greater than one percent (wt) water, preferably greater than five percent (wt) water, more preferably greater than 50% (wt) water, and most preferably greater than 80% (wt) water. Alcohols, such as ethyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol, may be used at low concentrations (about 0.5% by weight of the formulation) to enhance hair penetration and/or reduce odor.
vii. Viscosity Modifying Agents
The formulations may contain one or more viscocity modifying agents, such as viscosity increasing agents. Classes of such agents include, but are not limited to, viscous liquids, such as polyethylene glycol, semisynthetic polymers, such as semisynthetic cellulose derivatives, synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers, and polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEI-10), naturally occurring polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, petroleum jelly, waxes, particulate associate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide, and microcrystalline cellulose, surfactantsm such as PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide, emulsifiers, such as disteareth-75 IPDI, and salts, such as sodium chloride, and combinations thereof
viii. Antioxidants
The formulations may contain one or more antioxidants. Examples include, but are not limited to, tocopheryls, BHT, ascorbic acid, camellia sinensis leaf extract, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, carotenoids, resveratrol, triethyl citrate, arbutin, kojic acid, tetrahexydecyl ascorbate, superoxide dismutase, zinc, sodium metabisulfite, lycopene, ubiquinone, and combinations thereof.
ix. Opacifying Agents
The formulations may contain one or more opacifying agents. Opacifying agents are added to the formulations to make it opaque. Suitable opacifying agents include, but are not limited to, glycol distearate and ethoxylated fatty alcohols.
c. Forms of the Formulation
i. Sprays
The formulation may be in the form of a spray. The spray typically includes the crosslinking agent and a cosmetically acceptable carrier. In some embodiments, the carrier is water or a water and alcohol mixture. The spray formulation optionally includes an antioxidant, sunscreen agent, vitamin, protein, peptide, plant extract, humectant, oil, emollient, lubricant, thickener, hair conditioning agent, polymer, and/or surfactant. Preferably, the spray formulation includes a preservative. In some embodiments, the formulation includes a fragrance. In some embodiments, the formulation includes a surfactant. In some embodiments, the formulation contains water, fragrance, a preservative, and a crosslinking agent. In some embodiments, the formulation contains water, fragrance, a preservative, and a crosslinking agent. In some embodiments, the formulation contains water, a preservative, fragrance, the crosslinking agent, and an anti-static agent. In some embodiments, the formulation contains water, a preservative, fragrance, the crosslinking agent, and a hair conditioning agent. In some embodiments, the formulation contains water, a preservative, fragrance, the crosslinking agent, and a surfactant.
The hair spray formulations may be dispensed from containers that include aerosol dispensers or pump spray dispensers. Such dispensers are known in the art and are commercially available from a variety of manufacturers.
Propellant
When the hair spray formulation is dispensed from a pressurized aerosol container, a propellant may be used to force the composition out of the container. Suitable propellants include, but are not limited to, a liquefiable gas or a halogenated propellant. Examples of suitable propellants include dimethyl ether and hydrocarbon propellants such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, CFCs, and CFC-replacement propellants. The propellants may be used singly or admixed.
The amount of propellant may range from about 10% to about 60% by weight of the formulation. The propellant may be separated from the hair repair formulation as in a two compartment container. Other suitable aerosol dispensers are those characterized by the propellant being compressed air, which can be filled into the dispenser using a pump or equivalent device prior to use. Conventional non-aerosol pump spray dispensers, i.e., atomizers, may also be used to apply the formulation to the hair.
ii. Conditioners
The formulation may be in the form of a conditioner. The conditioner typically includes the crosslinking agent in a suitable carrier. Additionally, the conditioner may include cationic polymers derived from polysaccharides, for example cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, cationic guar derivatives and cationic locust bean gum derivatives, synthetic cationic polymers, mixtures or combinations of these agents. The formulation may comprise other synthetic or natural polymers or polymers derived from biological preparation processes, which are functionalized, where appropriate, for example with cationic or neutral groups. These polymers may have a stabilizing or strengthening action on the compositions, and/or a conditioning action (deposition on the surface of the skin or the hair). The crosslinking agent may be included in any suitable concentration. Typical concentrations of the crosslinking agent in the conditioner range from small amounts such as approximately 0.01% (wt), preferably at least 0.1% (wt), to large amounts, such as up to 50% (wt). Preferably the conditioner contains the crosslinking agent in a concentration ranging from 0.1% (wt) to 5% (wt), more preferably from 0.1% wt to 3% (wt). While greater concentrations of crosslinking agent could be present in the conditioner, they are generally not needed to achieve the desired results.
iii. Shampoos
The hair repair formulation may be in the form of a shampoo. The shampoo typically includes the crosslinking agent in a suitable carrier. The crosslinking agent may be included in any suitable concentration. Typical concentrations of the crosslinking agent in the shampoo range from small amounts such as approximately 0.01% (wt), preferably at least 0.1% (wt), to large amounts, such as up to 50% (wt). Preferably the shampoo contains the crosslinking agent in a concentration ranging from 0.1% (wt) to 5% (wt), more preferably from 0.1% wt to 3% (wt). While greater concentrations of crosslinking agent could be present in the shampoo, they are generally not needed to achieve the desired results.
Additionally, the shampoo may include from about 0.5% to about 20% of a surfactant material. Surfactants utilized in shampoo compositions are well-known in the art and are disclosed, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 6,706,258 to Gallagher et al. and U.S. Pat. No. 7,598,213 to Geary et al.
iv. Creams
The hair repair formulation may be in the form of a cream. The cream typically includes the crosslinking agent in a suitable carrier. The crosslinking agent may be included in any suitable concentration. Typical concentrations of the crosslinking agent in the cream range from small amounts such as approximately 0.01% (wt), preferably at least 0.1% (wt), to large amounts, such as up to 50% (wt). Preferably the cream contains the crosslinking agent in a concentration ranging from 0.1% (wt) to 5% (wt), more preferably from 0.1% wt to 3% (wt). While greater concentrations of crosslinking agent could be present in the cream, they are generally not needed to achieve the desired results.
Additionally, the cream may include an oil, a hair conditioning agent, and/or a thickening agent. The cream may also include a fragrance, a plant extract, and/or a surfactant. The cream may be packaged in a tube, tub, bottle, or other suitable container.
v. Liquid Crosslinking Formulations
In some embodiments, a liquid crosslinking formulation is provided, which is mixed at the time of use with a second formulation, such as a coloring or highlighting formulation. In these embodiments, the liquid crosslinking formulation may contain any suitable concentration of crosslinking agent in a suitable carrier, typically a diluent, such as described above. The concentration of the crosslinking agent is suitable to provide a mixture with the appropriate final volume and final concentration of crosslinking agent.
For example, a liquid crosslinking formulation can contain a concentration of crosslinking agent ranging from about 5% (wt) to about 50% (wt) or greater. In a preferred embodiment, the liquid crosslinking formulation contains about 20% (wt) crosslinking agent.
For highlighting applications, prior to use, a sufficient volume of a liquid crosslinking formulation is mixed with a sufficient volume of a highlighting formulation to form a highlighting mixture having the desired concentration of crosslinking agent. Typical concentrations of the crosslinking agent in the highlighting mixture range from small amounts, such as approximately at least 0.01% (wt), preferably at least 0.1% (wt), to large amounts, such as up to 50% (wt). Preferably the highlighting mixture contains the crosslinking agent in a concentration ranging from 0.1% (wt) to 5% (wt), more preferably from 0.1% wt to 3% (wt). While greater concentrations of crosslinking agent could be present in the highlighting mixture, they are generally not needed to achieve the desired results.
A. Apply the Coloring Formulation to the Hair
The coloring formulation is generally applied to an individual's hair following normal hair coloring procedures that are known to those skilled in the art. Typically, hair color treatments include two complementary processes: bleaching the hair's natural pigment and/or other artificial pigments present in the hair, and diffusion of dye precursors into the hair, followed by coupling reactions that result in the formation of chromophores within the hair shaft, which are too large to diffuse out of the hair. The hair coloring formulation may be a highlighting formulation, such as formed by mixing bleach powder and developer. More complex colors may contain several precursors and many couplers, and may involve multiple reactions.
The dye precursors may contain several ingredients, each with different functions. The first ingredient is usually an alkalizing agent (usually ammonia and/or an ammonia substitute, such as monoethanolamine [MEA]). The alkalizing agent serves a number of roles in the hair colorant process including swelling the hair fiber to aid in diffusion of the dye precursors. The dye precursors generally include p-diamines and p-aminophenols. Precursors are oxidized to active intermediates once they have penetrated the hair shaft. Intermediates then react with color couplers to create wash resistant dyes. More specifically, the intermediates, in the presence of an oxidant, couple with another oxidation dye intermediate molecule to form a large fused ring color compound within the hair shaft. The precursor intermediate should penetrate the hair shaft prior to the coupling reaction since the fused ring product is too large to penetrate the hair shaft. Couplers modify the color produced by the oxidation of precursor compounds. The primary difference between demi-permanent and permanent products is the alkalizing agent and the concentration of peroxide. The cuticle does not swell as greatly with demi-permanent dyes, making dye penetration less efficient compared to permanent coloring products.
Several coloring formulations use a reducing agent, such as sodium bisulfate, to break disulfide bonds in the hair, allowing deeper penetration of the hair coloring dyes into the hair. Specifically, the method includes reducing some of the disulfide linkages of the cystine in the hair shafts to thiol groups while breaking hydrogen bonds. The reducing process changes the chemical and cosmetic characteristics of the hair, which are undesirable.
The hair dyeing process may be followed by a shampoo and conditioning treatment, a neutralizing rinse or an acid balanced shampoo containing in addition to cationic or amphoteric surfactants, cation-active emollients and quaternary polymers. Alternately, the hair dying process may be followed by application of the crosslinking formulations described herein, before a shampoo and/or conditioning treatment.
B. Apply the Crosslinking Formulation to the Hair
The crosslinking formulation may be applied simultaneously with the hair coloring formulation or subsequently to the application of the hair coloring formulation. For example, the crosslinking formulation may be mixed with the hair coloring treatment and the mixture, containing both the crosslinking formulation the hair coloring treatment, may be applied to the hair.
Alternatively, subsequent to coloring the hair, the crosslinking formulation, or a formulation thereof is applied to the hair. Although the crosslinking agent is typically applied on the same day as the coloring treatment, it may be applied later such as within 1 to 2 weeks following treatment with the reducing agent. Typically, the amount of crosslinking formulation (or a mixture of the crosslinking formulation and the hair coloring formulation) applied is enough to saturate the hair. The crosslinking formulation may be applied to the hair as a single application, or application of the crosslinking agent may be repeated one or more times. Typically, the amount of crosslinking formulation applied in each application is sufficient to saturate the hair. The volume of crosslinking formulation applied to the hair in each application may be about 1 to about 100 mL per person depending on their length and volume of hair. In some embodiments, application of the crosslinking agent could be repeated immediately (e.g. within 10 to 15 seconds) or approximately 1, 5, 7.5, 10, 12.5, 15, 17.5, or 20 minutes after the first application.
The crosslinking agent can be rinsed and shampooed from the hair immediately following application, for example within 10, 15, 25, 30, 45, or 60 seconds, or two, three, four, or five minutes after application. Alternatively, the crosslinking agent may be rinsed from the hair within about 30 minutes following application, preferably between about 5 minutes and about 20 minutes, more preferably about 10 minutes after application of the crosslinking agent to the hair, depending on hair type.
If the crosslinking formulation is combined with the hair coloring treatment and applied as a mixture to the hair, then the mixture remains on the hair as long as needed for the hair coloring treatment. Typically the mixture is applied for approximately 10 minutes. The mixture is removed from the hair in accordance with standard methods for hair coloring treatments, e.g., rinse and shampoo, approximately 10 minutes after applying the mixture.
The crosslinking formulation is rinsed from the hair after its application. The hair may be rinsed and subsequently washed immediately (e.g. within 10 to 15 seconds following application) after final application of the crosslinking agent. Preferably, the hair is rinsed and/or washed about 10 minutes or later after the final application of the crosslinking agent, such as about 15 minutes to about 30 minutes, optionally about 20 minutes after repeated application of the crosslinking agent to the hair.
The crosslinking agent covalently crosslinks the reduced thiols in the hair. The thiols remain crosslinked for at least one week, two weeks, three weeks, four weeks, one month, two months, three months, four months, five months, six months, seven months, eight months, nine months, ten months, eleven months, or one year.
The crosslinking agents are generally washed from the individual's hair on the same day as they are applied. In contrast, traditional perms which use only hydrogen peroxide (and do not involve the addition of a cross-linking agent) are generally not washed for at least 48 hours following application (washing the hair prior to 48 hours following a traditional permanent treatment may result in significant loss in the amount of curl in the hair and/or cause damage to the hair).
The compositions described herein improve hair quality, such as appearance (e.g., sheen) and feel, increase dry strength (e.g., tensile strength), and decrease hair breakage when the hair is subjected to subsequent treatments, such as coloring. In some embodiments, the tensile strength increases 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, or 50% or higher compared to untreated hair from the same individual. Tensile strength of hair can be tested using known techniques in the art. For example, an apparatus for measuring the tensile strength of hair is described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,628,742. Instron also described techniques and apparatus for measuring the tensile strength of hair.
In other embodiments, hair breakage decreases by 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, or 50% or higher after crosslinking compared to untreated hair from the same individual. Hair breakage is a significant problem encountered during coloring and other treatments.
Kits for treating hair are provided. The kit typically contains a first formulation for coloring hair. The hair coloring formulations typically include a reducing agent capable of reducing disulfide bonds in hair to produce reduced thiol groups. The kit also includes a second formulation containing an effective amount of a crosslinking agent to covalently crosslink reduced thiol groups in hair.
The crosslinking agent is described above. It contains at least two reactive moieties capable of reacting with a thiol and optionally, a linker that links the reactive moieties. Suitable formulations containing the crosslinking agent are described above. The kit may further include a developer bottle, gloves, shampoo, conditioner, and/or an odor eliminator. Instructions for use of the kit are also typically provided.
Typically the kit contains more than one container (or more than one compartment in a given container) to ensure that the lightening agent (e.g., peroxides) or the coloring agent is stored separately from the crosslinking agent.
a. First Formulation
The first formulation is a coloring treatment. The first formulation may be formulated as two or more components may be mixed together before application to the hair. For example, the first formulation may be in the form of two components such as a dye precursor and an oxidant. Typically, the hair coloring formulation contains a reducing agent capable of reducing the disulfide bonds in hair and producing reduced thiol groups. Suitable reducing agents include, but are not limited to, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, dihydrolipoate, thioglycerol, mercaptopropionic acid, sodium bisulfite, ammonium bisulfide, zinc formaldehyde sulfoxylate, sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate, sodium metabisulfite, potassium borohydride, pegylated thiols and hydroquinone. The amount of the reducing agent in the first formulation is sufficient to rupture a sufficient number of disulfide bonds for effective diffusion of the hair coloring ingredients as would be appreciated by one of skill in the art.
The components of the first formulation may differ depending on the hair coloring treatment desired (such as for semi-permanent, demi-permanent, or permanent hair color), the texture of the hair, the sensitivity of the user's skin, and such the like. Hair coloring formulations for different hair coloring treatment, hair texture, and hair sensitivity are known to those of skill in the art.
b. Crosslinking Formulation
The second formulation contains one or more crosslinking agents in an effective amount to crosslink reduced thiols in the hair following a coloring treatment. Suitable formulations containing the crosslinking agents are discussed above. The second formulation may be in any suitable form. Suitable forms include, but are not limited to, low to moderate viscosity liquids, lotions, milks, mousses, sprays, gels, creams, shampoos, conditioners, and the like. The second formulation will be present in a suitable container, which depends on the form of the formulation.
The second formulation is administered in an effective amount to covalently crosslink at least 1%, 10%, 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, or 100% of the free thiols in the hair. Preferably the second formulation is administered in an effective amount to covalently crosslink about 25-100%; more preferably about 50-100% of the free thiols in the hair.
In one embodiment, the crosslinking formulation is provided as two or more separate ingredients. For example, the crosslinking agent may be provided as a dry powder in a sealed package and the excipient provided in a vial or other container. A suitable mixing container for the crosslinking agent and the excipient may be provided.
In some embodiments, the crosslinking formulation (or second formulation) is mixed with the first formulation (or hair coloring treatment), and the mixture is applied to the hair.
c. Other Materials in the Kit
The kit optionally contains shampoos and conditioners. Suitable shampoos and conditioners include, but are not limited to LiQWd® Hydrating Shampoo and LiQWd® Hydrating Conditioner.
The kit may further contain an odor eliminator. The odor eliminator can be incorporated into the first or second formulation, or a mixture thereof. Alternately, the odor eliminator is present in a suitable container for use before or after washing the second formulation from the hair. Some suitable odor eliminators are known to those of ordinary skill in the art.
It is understood that the disclosed method and compositions are not limited to the particular methodology, protocols, and reagents described as these may vary. It is also to be understood that the terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only, and is not intended to limit the scope of the present invention which will be limited only by the appended claims.
General
Three hair samples were obtained from a human subject and cut in ½ inch wide wefts.
Coloring Formulation:
The permanent hair coloring formulation was obtained from a L′Oreal® permanent hair coloring service (L′Oreal® Majirel permanent color #10 with 20 volume peroxide).
Crosslinking Formulation:
A bismaleimide crosslinking agent, (bis-(maleimidoethoxy) ethane), at a concentration of 300 mg in 10 g total solution (water) was used.
Methods
The hair samples were washed with a clarifying shampoo then towel dried. The samples were then colored with the L′Oreal® permanent hair color service, which was left on the hair samples for approximately 35-40 minutes.
The first color treated hair sample (“control”) was subsequently rinsed and washed with Liqwd® Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner five times before being photographed.
The crosslinking formulation was applied to the second and third color treated hair samples via a spray bottle and massaging using the fingers. The crosslinking formulation was left on the second hair sample for a period of about 1 minute and on the third sample for a period of about 10 minutes. The hair samples were subsequently rinsed, and then washed with Liqwd® Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner five times before being examined.
Results:
The hair samples treated with the crosslinking formulation showed better color retention, more shine, and less frizz than the control. The hair samples treated with the crosslinking formulation felt smoother to the touch and combined with the lower frizz and added sheen gave an overall healthier appearance over the control.
Method
A ½ inch wide weft of hair sample, obtained from a human subject, was washed with clarifying shampoo then towel dried. Ammonium thioglycolate or dithiothreitol was mechanically pulled through the hair with a wide and a fine toothcomb several times then left on the hair for 10 minutes to 1 hour. The hair was then rinsed for 30 seconds to 1 minute with water, and then towel dried.
The crosslinking formulation, described in Example 1, was then applied via a needle nose applicator drenching the hair and leaving it on for 7.5 minutes. This step was repeated, for a total of 15 minutes. The hair was then rinsed for 1-2 minutes, shampooed, and then conditioned with various salon shampoo and conditioner brands, including LiQWd® Hydrating Shampoo and Hydrating Conditioner.
A second sample of hair was straightened, as described above, but using hydrogen peroxide instead of the crosslinking formulation. The hair samples were washed and conditioned repeatedly.
Comparison of Hair Color:
After both hair samples were washed five times using LiQWd® Hydrating Shampoo and LiQWd® Hydrating Conditioner, the samples were examined for their color retention.
Results
The hair sample treated with the crosslinking formulation displayed a color closer in intensity to the hair sample prior to the first washing, compared to the hair treated with hydrogen peroxide.
The crosslinking formulation in Example 1 contained the bismaleimide crosslinking agent at concentrations of 2400 mg in 10 g total solution (water).
Two swatches of human hair were tested. A sample was taken from the same head, 1 inch wide, and split in half. The color was medium brown and had been previously color treated with an unknown professional hair color.
Swatch 1, ½ inch wide and 8 inches long, was lightened with traditional highlighting ingredients mixed with a crosslinking formulation. 1 oz of Joico Verocolor Veroxide developer-20 volume was mixed with 1 oz Joico Verolight powder bleach to form the highlighting formulation. Then 9 mL of the crosslinking formulation was added to the highlighting formulation to form a mixture.
The mixture was applied on the Swatch 1 hair with an applicator brush as the hair lay on aluminum foil. The foil was then wrapped around the swatch and allowed to process for 35 minutes. The swatch was rinsed and shampooed one time.
Swatch 2, the control, ½ inch wide and 8 inches long, was lightened with traditional highlighting ingredients in the absence of a crosslinking formulation. 1 oz of Joico Verocolor Veroxide developer-20 volume was mixed with 1 oz Joico Verolight powder bleach to form a highlighting formulation with a creamy consistency.
The highlighting formulation was applied on the Swatch 2 hair with an applicator brush as the hair lay on aluminum foil. The foil was then wrapped around the swatch and allowed to process for 35 minutes. The swatch was rinsed and shampooed one time.
Results
A noticeable difference in hair quality between Swatch 1 and Swatch 2 was observed. Swatch 1 hair was softer, less frizzy, appeared hydrated, with more shine than the control, Swatch 2.
Both swatches were washed and conditioned 5 more times with the same noticeable benefits of Swatch 1 (treated with the mixture of highlighting formulation and crosslinking formulation) compared to the control, Swatch 2 (treated with highlighting formulation, alone).
This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional application Ser. No. 61/861,281, filed Aug. 1, 2013; U.S. Provisional application Ser. No. 61/867,872, filed Aug. 20, 2013; and U.S. Provisional application Ser. No. 61/903,239, filed Nov. 12, 2013. The disclosures of these applications are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 61861281 | Aug 2013 | US | |
| 61867872 | Aug 2013 | US | |
| 61903239 | Nov 2013 | US |
