Patent Application
20210196605
The present invention relates to a method of using personal cleansing compositions containing a polymer and encapsulated benefit agents and to the use of a polymer in personal care compositions to improve the longevity of the benefit derived from the encapsulated benefit agent.
In personal cleansing compositions such as liquid soaps, body washes and shampoos, the deposition and delivery of benefit agents are often key drivers of product performance. For example, many of the shampoo products in the market today work to deliver benefits to hair by depositing benefit agents such as fragrance materials, silicones, dyes, and anti-dandruff agents onto the hair during washing. A key consideration is the longevity of the benefit bestowed by the benefit agent, once delivered to a surface.
A widely used technology is encapsulation of the benefit agent in a protective coating such as a polymeric material. The polymeric material may protect the benefit agent, such as a fragrance material, from evaporation, reaction, oxidation or otherwise dissipating prior to use, thus prolonging its useful life.
However, longevity of the usefulness of encapsulated benefit agents is itself a desirable goal as maximizing encapsulate deposition during cleansing is a difficult task since most personal cleansing compositions are designed to carry away particulates from the skin or hair. One solution is to use higher levels of encapsulated benefit agents in formulations to deliver the consumer desired benefit. However, once deposited, encapsulated benefit agents often suffer from reduction in effectiveness over time, due to the aforementioned problems of dissipation such as evaporation, reaction and oxidation, as well as diffusion from the encapsulate.
Accordingly, there is a need for a personal cleansing composition that provides an improved longevity of benefit derived from encapsulated benefit agents, particularly fragrance.
We have now found that a method of treating a substrate with a personal cleansing composition having a specified composition and comprising encapsulated benefit agent and a blend of cationic polymers comprising acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer having a mean charge density at pH7 from 1 to 3 meq per gram delivers unexpectedly high benefit longevity, when the microcapsules are sheared up to two weeks later.
In a first aspect the present invention provides a method of using a personal cleansing composition, said personal cleansing composition comprising, in an aqueous continuous phase:
(i) from 5 to 30% by weight of one or more anionic cleansing surfactants;
(ii) from 0.1 to 10% by weight of discrete, dispersed droplets of emulsified silicone with a mean diameter (D3,2) of 4 micrometres or less;
(iii) from 0.1 to 5% by weight of microcapsules in which a core comprising benefit agent is encapsulated in a polymeric shell, and
(iv) from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of a combination of cationic polymers comprising:
In a second aspect the present invention provides a use of an acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer in a personal care composition, comprising an microcapsule comprising an encapsulated benefit agent, to improve longevity of the benefit delivered from the encapsulated benefit agent after deposition of the microcapsule onto a substrate.
The invention further provides a use of an acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer in a personal care composition, comprising a microcapsule comprising an encapsulated benefit agent, to reduce leakage of encapsulated benefit agent from the microcapsule after deposition of the microcapsule onto a substrate.
Also a use of an acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer in a personal care composition, comprising a microcapsule comprising an encapsulated benefit agent, to protect the microcapsule after deposition of the microcapsule onto a substrate.
Preferably the microcapsules are sheared by applying a mechanical action to the substrate selected from stroking and rubbing. Where the substrate is hair, the microcapsules are preferably sheared by applying a mechanical action to the hair selected from combing, brushing, rubbing, towelling, stroking and shaking.
The microcapsules are sheared to release the benefit agent after a period of from 24 h to 2 weeks, preferably of from 48 h to 2 weeks, more preferably of from 3 days to 2 weeks, most preferably from of from 1 week to 2 weeks. Unexpectedly, the encaps are protected from leakage after deposition onto the substrate and can release their load at a dramatically longer time than conventional encaps.
The hair may be dried by applying heat, for example radiated heat or hot air. Alternatively, the hair is allowed to dry naturally at ambient temperature.
The method may comprise the additional step of first wetting the substrate.
Preferably the method comprises an additional step of rinsing the personal cleansing composition from the substrate.
Preferably, the substrate is hair.
The composition for use in the method of the invention is primarily intended for topical application to the body, preferably the hair and scalp. Preferably the personal care composition is a hair cleansing composition. Preferred hair cleansing compositions are selected from a shampoo and a cleansing conditioner, most preferably a shampoo.
Preferably, the method comprises an additional step of assessing the substrate for fragrance following release of the benefit agent from the microcapsules.
All molecular weights as used herein are weight average molecular weights, unless otherwise specified.
By “aqueous continuous phase” is meant a continuous phase which has water as its basis.
Suitably, the composition for use in the method of the invention will comprise from about 50 to about 90%, preferably from about 55 to about 85%, more preferably from about 60 to about 85%, most preferably from about 65 to about 83% water (by weight based on the total weight of the composition).
Typical anionic cleansing surfactants (i) for use in the invention include those surface active agents which contain an organic hydrophobic group with from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 14 carbon atoms in their molecular structure; and at least one water-solubilising group which is preferably selected from sulphate, sulphonate, sarcosinate and isethionate.
Specific examples of such anionic cleansing surfactants include ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium laureth sulphate, trimethylamine lauryl sulphate, trimethylamine laureth sulphate, triethanolamine lauryl sulphate, trimethylethanolamine laureth sulphate, monoethanolamine lauryl sulphate, monoethanolamine laureth sulphate, diethanolamine lauryl sulphate, diethanolamine laureth sulphate, lauric monoglyceride sodium sulphate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium laureth sulphate, potassium lauryl sulphate, potassium laureth sulphate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, lauryl sarcosine, ammonium cocoyl sulphate, ammonium lauroyl sulphate, sodium cocoyl sulphate, sodium lauryl sulphate, potassium cocoyl sulphate, potassium lauryl sulphate, monoethanolamine cocoyl sulphate, monoethanolamine lauryl sulphate, sodium tridecyl benzene sulphonate, sodium dodecyl benzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate and mixtures thereof.
A preferred class of anionic cleansing surfactants for use in the invention are alkyl ether sulphates of general formula:
R—O—(CH2CH2—O)n—SO3−M+
in which R is a straight or branched chain alkyl group having 10 to 14 carbon atoms, n is a number that represents the average degree of ethoxylation and ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3, and M is a alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium cation, preferably sodium, potassium, monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium, or a mixture thereof.
Specific examples of such preferred anionic surfactants include the sodium, potassium, ammonium or ethanolamine salts of C10 to C12 alkyl sulphates and C10 to C12 alkyl ether sulphates (for example sodium lauryl ether sulphate),
Mixtures of any of the above described materials may also be used.
In a typical composition according to the invention the level of anionic cleansing surfactant will generally range from 8 to 25%, and preferably ranges from 10 to 16% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous continuous phase of the composition according to the invention preferably also includes one or more amphoteric surfactants, in addition to the anionic cleansing surfactant described above. Suitable amphoteric surfactants are betaines, such as those having the general formula R(CH3)2N+CH2COO−, where R is an alkyl or alkylamidoalkyl group, the alkyl group preferably having 10 to 16 carbon atoms. Particularly suitable betaines are oleyl betaine, caprylamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, isostearylamidopropyl betaine, and cocoamidopropyl betaine. Cocoamidopropyl betaine is particularly preferred.
When included, the total level of amphoteric surfactant is preferably from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably from 0.5 to 5%, and most preferably from 1 to 3% by weight based on the total weight of the hair cleansing composition).
Droplets of emulsified silicone (ii) for inclusion in the composition for use in the method of the invention typically have a mean droplet diameter (D3,2) of 2 micrometres or less. Preferably the mean droplet diameter (D3,2) is 1 micrometre or less, more preferably 0.5 micrometre or less, and most preferably 0.25 micrometre or less.
A suitable method for measuring the mean droplet diameter (D3,2) is by laser light scattering using an instrument such as a Malvern Mastersizer.
Suitable silicones for use in the invention include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups (dimethiconols), and amino-functional polydimethylsiloxanes (amodimethicones).
Such silicones are preferably non-volatile (with vapour pressure of less than 1000 Pa at 25° C.), and preferably have a molecular weight of greater than 100,000, more preferably greater than 250,000.
Such silicones preferably have a kinematic viscosity of greater than 50,000 cS (mm2.s−1) and more preferably a kinematic viscosity of greater than 500,000 cS (mm2.s−1). Silicone kinematic viscosities in the context of this invention are measured at 25° C. and can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set out further in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM004 Jul. 20, 1970.
Suitable silicones for use in the invention are available as pre-formed silicone emulsions from suppliers such as Dow Corning and GE Silicones. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsions is preferred for ease of processing and control of silicone particle size. Such pre-formed silicone emulsions will typically additionally comprise a suitable emulsifier, and may be prepared by a chemical emulsification process such as emulsion polymerisation, or by mechanical emulsification using a high shear mixer. Pre-formed silicone emulsions having a mean droplet diameter (D3,2) of less than 0.15 micrometres are generally termed microemulsions.
Examples of suitable pre-formed silicone emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, DC-1785, DC-1786, DC-1788, DC-1310, DC-7123 and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions/microemulsions of dimethiconol. Also suitable are amodimethicone emulsions such as DC939 (from Dow Corning) and SME253 (from GE Silicones).
Mixtures of any of the above described silicone emulsions may also be used.
In a typical composition according to the invention the level of silicone (per se as active ingredient) will generally range from 1 to 8%, and preferably ranges from 2 to 7.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
The composition for use in the method of the invention may suitably include at least one inorganic electrolyte. The inorganic electrolyte may be used to help provide viscosity to the composition.
The viscosity of the composition suitably ranges from 3,000 to 10,000 mPa.s, preferably from 4,000 to 8,000 mPa.s, more preferably from 5,000 to 7,000 mPa.s when measured using a Brookfield V2 viscometer (spindle RTVS, 1 minute, 20 rpm) at 30° C.
Suitable inorganic electrolytes include metal chlorides (such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, zinc chloride, ferric chloride and aluminium chloride) and metal sulphates (such as sodium sulphate and magnesium sulphate).
Examples of preferred inorganic electrolytes for use in the invention include sodium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium sulphate and mixtures thereof.
The composition for use in the method of the invention comprises microcapsules (iii) in which a core comprising benefit agent is encapsulated in a polymeric shell.
The term “benefit agent” in the context of this invention includes materials which can provide a benefit to the hair and/or the scalp and/or the skin (preferably the hair and/or the scalp) as well as those materials which are beneficially incorporated into personal cleansing compositions, such as aesthetic agents.
The benefit agent of the core of the microcapsule may suitably be selected from perfumes, cosmetic active ingredients such as antimicrobial agents, antidandruff agents, moisturisers, conditioning agents, sunscreening agents, physiological coolants and emollient oils; and mixtures thereof.
Preferably the benefit agent of the core of the microcapsule is selected from perfumes. A perfume normally consists of a mixture of a number of perfume materials, each of which has an odour or fragrance. The number of perfume materials in a perfume is typically 10 or more. The range of fragrant materials used in perfumery is very wide; the materials come from a variety of chemical classes, but in general are water-insoluble oils. In many instances, the molecular weight of a perfume material is in excess of 150, but does not exceed 300.
Examples of perfume materials for use in the invention include geraniol, geranyl acetate, linalol, linalyl acetate, tetrahydrolinalol, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopyl acetate, 2-phenyl-ethanol, 2-penylethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, amyl salicylate, dimethylbenzyl-carbinol, trichloromethylphenyl-carbinyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, isononyl acetate, vetiveryl acetate, vetiverol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2-methyl-3-p-tert-butylpheyl)propanal, 2-methyl-3-(p-isopropylphenyl)propanal, 2-(p-tert-butylpheyl)propanal, 2,4-dimethyl-cyclohex-3-enyl-carboxaldehyde, tricyclodecenyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionate,4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexenecarboxyaldehyde, 4-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyl-tetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl-2-pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, n-decanal, n-dodecanal, 9-decenol-1, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, phenyl-acetaldehyde dimethyl-acetal, phenylacetaldehyde diethylacetal, geranyl nitrile, citronellyl nitrile, cedryl acetate, 3-isocamphylcyclohexanol, cedryl methyl ether, isolongifolanone, aubepine nitrile, aubepine, heliotropin, coumarin, eugenol, vanillin, diphenyl oxide, hydroxycitronellal, ionones, methylionones, isomethylionones, irones, cis-3-hexenol and esters thereof, indan musks, tetralin musks, isochroman musks, macrocyclic ketones, macrolactone musks, ethylene brassylate and mixtures thereof.
Optional further materials which may be included in the core of the microcapsule include dyes, pigments and preservatives.
The polymeric shell of the microcapsule may be prepared using methods known to those skilled in the art such as coacervation, interfacial polymerisation and polycondensation.
The process of coacervation typically involves encapsulation of a generally water-insoluble material by the precipitation of colloidal material(s) onto the surface of droplets of the material. Coacervation may be simple e.g. using one colloid such as gelatin, or complex where two or possibly more colloids of opposite charge, such as gelatin and gum arabic or gelatin and carboxymethyl cellulose, are used under carefully controlled conditions of pH, temperature and concentration.
Interfacial polymerisation produces encapsulated shells from the reaction of at least one oil-soluble wall forming material present in the oil phase with at least one water-soluble wall forming material present in the aqueous phase. A polymerisation reaction between the two wall-forming materials occurs resulting in the formation of covalent bonds at the interface of the oil and aqueous phases to form the capsule wall. An example of a shell capsule produced by this method is a polyurethane capsule.
Polycondensation involves forming a dispersion or emulsion of water-insoluble material (e.g. perfume) in an aqueous solution of precondensate of polymeric materials under appropriate conditions of agitation to produce capsules of a desired size, and adjusting the reaction conditions to cause condensation of the precondensate by acid catalysis, resulting in the condensate separating from solution and surrounding the dispersed water-insoluble material to produce a coherent film and the desired microcapsules.
A preferred method for forming microcapsules for use in the invention is polycondensation, typically to produce aminoplast encapsulates. Aminoplast resins are the reaction products of one or more amines with one or more aldehydes. Examples of suitable amines include urea, thiourea, melamine and its derivatives, benzoguanamine and acetoguanamine and combinations of amines.
Preferably the polymeric shell of the microcapsule is an aminoplast resin selected from melamine formaldehyde, urea formaldehyde, melamine glyoxal and polyurea formed by reaction of polyisocyanates and polyamines. The most preferred polymeric shell is selected from melamine glyoxal and polyurea.
Advantageously the polymeric shell comprises at most 20 wt % of the weight of the microcapsules.
By modifying process conditions microcapsules of a desired size can be produced in known manner. The microcapsules typically have a mean diameter in the range 1 to 500 microns, preferably 1 to 300 microns, more preferably 1 to 50 microns and most preferably 1 to 10 microns. If necessary, the microcapsules as initially produced may be filtered or screened to produce a product of greater size uniformity.
In a typical composition according to the invention the level of microcapsules (iii) will generally range from 0. to 2%, and preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
The composition for use in the method of the invention comprises, inter alia, a combination of cationic polymers (iv) comprising:
The term “charge density” in the context of this invention refers to the ratio of the number of positive charges on a monomeric unit of which a polymer is comprised to the molecular weight of the monomeric unit. The charge density multiplied by the polymer molecular weight determines the number of positively charged sites on a given polymer chain.
The polygalactomannans are polysaccharides composed principally of galactose and mannose units and are usually found in the endosperm of leguminous seeds, such as guar, locust bean, honey locust, flame tree, and the like. Guar flour is composed mostly of a galactomannan which is essentially a straight chain mannan with single membered galactose branches. The mannose units are linked in a 1-4-β-glycosidic linkage and the galactose branching takes place by means of a 1-6 linkage on alternate mannose units. The ratio of galactose to mannose in the guar polymer is therefore one to two.
Suitable cationic polygalactomannans (a) for use in the invention include polygalactomannans, such as guars, and polygalactomannan derivatives, such as hydroxyalkyl guars (for example hydroxyethyl guars or hydroxypropyl guars), that have been cationically modified by chemical reaction with one or more derivatizing agents.
Derivatizing agents typically contain a reactive functional group, such as an epoxy group, a halide group, an ester group, an anhydride group or an ethylenically unsaturated group, and at least one cationic group such as a cationic nitrogen group, more typically a quaternary ammonium group. The derivatization reaction typically introduces lateral cationic groups on the polygalactomannan backbone, generally linked via ether bonds in which the oxygen atom corresponds to hydroxyl groups on the polygalactomannan backbone which have reacted.
Preferred cationic polygalactomannans (a) for use in the invention include guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chlorides.
Guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chlorides for use in the invention are generally comprised of a nonionic guar gum backbone that is functionalized with ether-linked 2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride groups, and are typically prepared by the reaction of guar gum with N-(3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl) trimethylammonium chloride.
Cationic polygalactomannans (a) for use in the invention (preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chlorides) generally have an average molecular weight (weight average molecular mass (Mw) determined by size exclusion chromatography) in the range 500,000 to 3 million g/mol, more preferably 800,000 to 2.5 million g/mol.
Cationic polygalactomannans (a) for use in the invention (preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chlorides) generally have a charge density ranging from 0.5 to 1.8 meq/g.
The cationic charge density of the polymer is suitably determined via the Kjeldahl method as described in the US Pharmacopoeia under chemical tests for nitrogen determination.
Specific examples of preferred cationic polygalactomannans (a) are guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides having a cationic charge density from 0.5 to 1.1 meq/g.
Also suitable are mixtures of cationic polygalactomannans (a) in which one has a cationic charge density from 0.5 to 1.1 meq/g, and one has a cationic charge density from 1.1 to 1.8 meq per gram.
Specific examples of preferred mixtures of cationic polygalactomannans (a) are mixtures of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides in which one has a cationic charge density from 0.5 to 1.1 meq/g, and one has a cationic charge density from 1.1 to 1.8 meq per gram.
Cationic polygalactomannans (a) for use in the invention are commercially available from Rhodia as JAGUAR® C13S, JAGUAR® C14 and JAGUAR® C17.
In a typical composition according to the invention the level of cationic polygalactomannans (a) will generally range from 0.05 to 0.25%, and preferably ranges from 0.15 to 0.2% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymers (b) for use in the invention generally have an average molecular weight (weight average molecular mass (Mw) determined by size exclusion chromatography) in the range 500,000 to 2 million g/mol, preferably 800,000 to 1.5 million g/mol.
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymers (b) for use in the invention generally have a charge density ranging from 1 to 2.5 meq/g, preferably from 1.5 to 2.2 meq/g.
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymers (b) for use in the invention are commercially available from Ashland as N-Hance® SP-100.
In a typical composition according to the invention the level of acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymers (b) will generally range from 0.05 to 0.25%, and preferably ranges from 0.05 to 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
The level of the combination of cationic polymers (iv) in the composition will generally range from 0.15 to 0.4%, and preferably ranges from 0.2 to 0.3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
The weight ratio of cationic polymer (a) to cationic polymer (b) in the composition will generally range from 4:1 to 1:1, and preferably ranges from 3:1 to 1:1.
A composition for use in the method of the invention may contain further optional ingredients to enhance performance and/or consumer acceptability. Examples of such ingredients include fragrance, dyes and pigments, pH adjusting agents and preservatives or antimicrobials. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount effective to accomplish its purpose. Generally these optional ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the composition for use in the method of the invention preferably ranges from 4 to 7, more preferably from 5.5 to 6.5.
In a preferred method of using a personal cleansing composition, preferably a shampoo, said personal cleansing composition comprising, in an aqueous continuous phase:
(i) from 5 to 30% by weight of one or more anionic cleansing surfactants;
(ii) from 0.1 to 10% by weight of discrete, dispersed droplets of emulsified silicone with a mean diameter (D3,2) of 4 micrometres or less;
(iii) from 0.1 to 5% by weight of microcapsules in which a core comprising benefit agent is encapsulated in a polymeric shell, and
(iv) from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of a combination of cationic polymers comprising:
the method comprises the steps of
The invention will be further illustrated by the following, non-limiting Examples, in which all percentages quoted are by weight based on total weight unless otherwise stated.
Hair cleansing shampoo formulations were prepared, having ingredients as shown in Table 1 below. Examples 1 and 2 represent formulations for use in methods according to the invention. Examples A and B represent comparative examples (for use in methods not according to the invention).
The formulations were used to treat hair and the longevity of the fragrance benefit thus bestowed on hair was then measured. 0.25 g test formulation was applied to 2.5 g/6″ switches of wet hair. The formulation was massaged on hair for 30 seconds followed by rinsing with warm water for 30 seconds. The hair was allowed to dry naturally. The treatment was repeated once. Five replicas were produced for each formulation.
Olfactive assessments are performed by a trained fragrance expert. A 10 point scale for the hedonic intensity was used. The hedonic intensity was scored before and after combing of hair switches at 24 hours and 2 weeks post treatment.
The results are shown in Table 2 below.
It will be seen from the results that Examples 1 and 2, used in the method of the invention provide dramatically better fragrance bloom than Examples A and B, used in a method not in accordance with the invention, with impressive longevity shown after 2 weeks.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 17195899.4 | Oct 2017 | EP | regional |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2018/075450 | 9/20/2018 | WO | 00 |
