Patent Application
20220142904
The subject of the present application is a method for treating keratinous material, in particular human hair, which comprises the application of three means (a), (b) and (c). The agent (a) is characterized by its content of at least one organic silicon compound (a1) and at least one coloring compound (a2). The agent (b) comprises at least one sealing reagent. Characteristic of agent (c) is a mixture of selected silicones.
A further subject of this application is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for dyeing keratinous material, in particular human hair, which comprises separately assembled at least four means (a′), (a″), (b) and (c). Agents (a′) and (a″) can be used to prepare the agent (a) used in the process described above.
The change in shape and color of keratin fibers, especially hair, is an important area of modern cosmetics. To change the hair color, the expert knows various coloring systems depending on coloring requirements. Oxidation dyes are usually used for permanent, intensive dyeing's with good fastness properties and good grey coverage. Such dyes usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which form the actual dyes with one another under the influence of oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting dyeing results.
When direct dyes are used, ready-made dyes diffuse from the colorant into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair dyeing, the dyeing's obtained with direct dyes have a shorter shelf life and quicker wash ability. Dyeing with direct dyes usually remain on the hair for a period of between 5 and 20 washes.
The use of color pigments is known for short-term color changes on the hair and/or skin. Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, coloring substances. These are present undissolved in the dye formulation in the form of small particles and are only deposited from the outside on the hair fibers and/or the skin surface. Therefore, they can usually be removed without residue by a few washes with surfactant-comprising cleaning agents. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name hair mascara.
If the user wants particularly long-lasting dyeing's, the use of oxidative dyes has so far been his only option. However, despite numerous optimization attempts, an unpleasant ammonia or amine odor cannot be completely avoided in oxidative hair dyeing. The hair damage still associated with the use of oxidative dyes also has a negative effect on the user's hair.
EP 2168633 B1 deals with the task of producing long-lasting hair colorations using pigments. The paper teaches that when the combination of a pigment, an organic silicon compound, a film-forming polymer and a solvent is used on hair, it is possible to create colorations that are particularly resistant to shampooing.
However, there is still a need to improve the wash fastness of dyeing's based on pigments and/or direct dyes and without oxidation dye precursors.
The following detailed description is merely exemplary in nature and is not intended to limit the disclosure or the application and uses of the subject matter as described herein. Furthermore, there is no intention to be bound by any theory presented in the preceding background or the following detailed description.
Accordingly, the task of the present disclosure present disclosure was to provide a dyeing system that has fastness properties comparable to oxidative dyeing. Wash fastness properties should be outstanding, but the use of oxidation dye precursors normally used for this purpose should be avoided. A technology was sought that would make it possible to fix colorant compounds known from the prior art (such as pigments or direct dyes) to the hair in a permanent manner.
Surprisingly, it has now been found that the task can be excellently solved if keratinous materials, in particular human hair, are colored by a process in which at least three agents (a), (b) and (c) are applied to the keratinous materials (hair). Here, the first agent (a) comprises at least one organic silicon compound comprising selected from the group of silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, and further comprises at least one color-imparting compound. In the medium (a), the organic silicon compound and the colorant compound are thus prepared together. The second agent (b) comprises at least one sealing reagent. The agent (c) comprises a mixture of selected hydroxy-terminated silicones.
When the three agents (a), (b) and (c) were used in a dyeing process, keratinous material could be dyed with particularly high color intensity.
A first object of the present disclosure present disclosure is a method for coloring keratinous material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps:
In the work leading to the present disclosure present disclosure, it has been found that the preferential successive application of agents (a) to (c) enables the production of very stable and washfast colorations on the keratinous materials. Without being limited to this theory, it is suspected in this context that the joint application of organic silicon compound (a1) and color-imparting compound (a2) leads to the formation of a particularly resistant first film on the keratinous material. Application of the second agent (b) seals the film applied to the keratinous material, making it more resistant to washing and/or abrasion. It has been found that the layers or films formed on the keratinous material are stabilized by the hydroxy terminated polyorganosiloxanes included in agent (c). Without wishing to be bound by this theory, it is believed that the hydroxy terminated polyorganosiloxanes form covalent bonds with the organic silicon compound(s) or their reaction products included in the formed layer.
Due to this special type of packaging—i.e., the joint application of silane (a1) and colorant compound (a2) and the separate application of the sealing reagent (b1)—the film system produced in this way, which may be multilayered, exhibited improved resistance to external influences. In this way, the colorant compounds (a2) were permanently fixed to the keratinous material, so that extremely washfast colorations with good resistance to shampooing could be obtained.
Keratinous Material
Keratinous material includes hair, skin, nails (such as fingernails and/or toenails). Wool, furs, and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinous material.
Preferably, keratinous material is understood to be human hair, human skin, and human nails, especially fingernails and toenails. Keratinous material is understood to be human hair.
Agent (a), (b) and (c)
In the process present disclosure as contemplated herein, agents (a), (b) and (c) are applied to the keratinous material, in particular human hair. The three agents (a), (b) and (c) are different from each other.
In other words, a first object of the present disclosure present disclosure is a method for treating keratinous material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps:
Application of an agent (a) to the keratinous material, wherein the agent (a) comprises:
(a1) at least one organic silicon compound comprising selected from the group of silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, and
(a2) at least one colorant compound comprising selected from the group of pigments and/or direct dyes,
Application of an agent (b) to the keratinous material, wherein the agent (b) comprises:
(b1) at least one sealing reagent and Application of an agent (c) to the keratinous material, wherein the agent (c) comprises:
(c1) a hydroxy terminated polyorganosiloxane, and
(c2) a reaction product of a hydroxy terminated polyorganosiloxane with an acid and/or an alcohol and/or a wax,
where the two means (a), (b) and (c) are different from each other.
Preferably, the composition (a) comprises the ingredients (a1) and (a2) essential to the present disclosure in a cosmetic carrier, particularly preferably in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carrier. This cosmetic carrier can be liquid, gel, or cream. Pasty, solid or powdery cosmetic carriers can also be used for the preparation of agent (a). To hair treatment, in particular hair coloring, such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels, or also surfactant-comprising foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols, foam formulations or other preparations suitable for application to the hair.
Preferably, the cosmetic carrier comprises—based on its weight—at least 2% by weight of water. Further preferably, the water content is above 10% by weight, still further preferably above 20% by weight and particularly preferably above 40% by weight. The cosmetic carrier can also be aqueous alcoholic. [0206] Aqueous/alcoholic solutions in the context of the present disclosure are aqueous solutions comprising 2 to 70% by weight of a C1-C4 alcohol, more particularly ethanol or isopropanol. The agents present disclosure as contemplated herein may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preferred are all water-soluble organic solvents.
Organic Silicon Compounds from the Group of Silanes (a1)
As an ingredient (a1) essential to the present disclosure, the composition (a) comprises at least one organic silicon compound from the group of silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms.
Particularly preferably, the agent (a) comprises at least one organic silicon compound (a1) selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound comprising one or more hydroxyl groups and/or hydrolysable groups per molecule.
These organic silicon compounds (a1) or organic silanes included in the agent (a) is reactive compounds.
Organic silicon compounds, alternatively called organosilicon compounds, are compounds which either have a direct silicon-carbon bond (Si—C) or in which the carbon is bonded to the silicon atom via an oxygen, nitrogen, or sulfur atom. The organic silicon compounds of the present disclosure are compounds comprising one to three silicon atoms. Organic silicon compounds preferably contain one or two silicon atoms.
According to IUPACrules, the term silane chemical compounds based on a silicon skeleton and hydrogen. In organic silanes, the hydrogen atoms are completely or partially replaced by organic groups such as (substituted) alkyl groups and/or alkoxy groups. In organic silanes, some of the hydrogen atoms may also be replaced by hydroxy groups.
In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method present disclosure as contemplated herein is characterized by the application of an agent (a) to the keratinous material, said agent (a) comprising at least one organic silicon compound (a1) selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, said organic silicon compound further comprising one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolysable groups per molecule.
In a very particularly preferred embodiment, a process present disclosure as contemplated herein is characterized by the application of an agent (a) to the keratinous material, said agent (a) comprising at least one organic silicon compound (a1) selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, said organic silicon compound further comprising one or more basic chemical functions and one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolysable groups per molecule.
This basic group or basic chemical function can be, for example, an amino group, an alkylamino group or a dialkylamino group, which is preferably connected to a silicon atom via a linker. Preferably, the basic group is an amino group, a C1-C6 alkylamino group or a di(C1-C6)alkylamino group.
The hydrolysable group(s) is (are) preferably a C1-C6 alkoxy group, especially an ethoxy group or a methoxy group. It is preferred when the hydrolysable group is directly bonded to the silicon atom. For example, if the hydrolysable group is an ethoxy group, the organic silicon compound preferably comprises a structural unit R′R″R′″Si—O—CH2-CH3. The residues R′, R″ and R′″ represent the three remaining free valences of the silicon atom.
A particularly preferred method present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein the composition comprises (a) at least one organic silicon compound selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound preferably comprising one or more basic chemical functions and one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolysable groups per molecule.
Particularly good results were obtained when the agent (a) comprises at least one organic silicon (a1) compound of formula (I) and/or (II).
The compounds of formulas (I) and (II) are organic silicon compounds selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound comprising one or more hydroxyl groups and/or hydrolysable groups per molecule.
In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the method is wherein an agent is applied to the keratinous material (or human hair), the agent (a) comprising at least one organic silicon compound (a) of formula (I) and/or (II),
R1R2N-L-Si(OR3)a(R4)b (I),
where
(R5O)c(R6)dSi-(A)e-[NR7-(A′)]f-[O-(A″)]g-[NR8-(A′″)]h-Si(R6′)d′(OR5′)c′ (II),
where
(A″″)-Si(R6″)d″(OR5″)c″ (III),
The substituents R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R5′, R5″, R6, R6′, R6″, R7, R8, L, A′, A″″ and A″″ in the compounds of formula (I) and (II) are explained below as examples: Examples of a C1-C6 alkyl group are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl, and t-butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl. Propyl, ethyl, and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. Examples of a C2-C6 alkenyl group are vinyl, allyl, but-2-enyl, but-3-enyl and isobutenyl, preferred C2-C6 alkenyl radicals are vinyl and allyl. Preferred examples of a hydroxy C1-C6 alkyl group are a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 2-hydroxypropyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl, a 4-hydroxybutyl group, a 5-hydroxypentyl and a 6-hydroxyhexyl group; a 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred. Examples of an amino C1-C6 alkyl group are the aminomethyl group, the 2-aminoethyl group, the 3-aminopropyl group. The 2-aminoethyl group is particularly preferred. Examples of a linear divalent C1-C20 alkylene group include the methylene group (—CH2),), the ethylene group (—CH2-CH2-), the propylene group (—CH2-CH2-CH2-) and the butylene group (—CH2-CH2-CH2-). The propylene group (—CH2-CH2-CH2-) is particularly preferred. From a chain length of 3 C atoms, divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched divalent C3-C20 alkylene groups are (—CH2-CH(CH3)-) and (—CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-).
In the organic silicon compounds of the formula (I)
R1R2N-L-Si(OR3)a(R4)b (I),
the radicals R1 and R2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group. In particular, the radicals R1 and R2 both represent a hydrogen atom.
In the middle part of the organic silicon compound is the structural unit or the linker -L- which stands for a linear or branched, divalent C1-C20 alkylene group.
A divalent C1-C20 alkylene group may alternatively be referred to as a divalent or divalent C1-C20 alkylene group, by which is meant that each L grouping may form two bonds. One bond is from the amino group R1R2N to the linker L, and the second bond is between the linker L and the silicon atom.
Preferably, -L- represents a linear, divalent (i.e., divalent) C1-C20 alkylene group. Further preferably -L- stands for a linear divalent C1-C6 alkylene group. Particularly preferred -L stands for a methylene group (CH2-), an ethylene group (—CH2-CH2-), propylene group (—CH2-CH2-CH2-) or butylene (—CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-). L stands for a propylene group (—CH2-CH2-CH2-)
The linear propylene group (—CH2-CH2-CH2-) can alternatively be referred to as the propane-1,3-diyl group.
The organic silicon compounds of formula (I)
R1R2N-L-Si(OR3)a(R4)b (I),
one end of each carries the silicon-comprising group —Si(OR3)a(R4)b
In the terminal structural unit —Si(OR3)a(R4)b, R3 is hydrogen or C1-C6 alkyl group, and R4 is C1-C6 alkyl group. Particularly preferred, R3 and R4 independently of each other represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
Here a stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and b stands for the integer 3-a. If a stands for the number 3, then b is equal to 0. If a stands for the number 2, then b is equal to 1. If a stands for the number 1, then b is equal to 2.
Particularly resistant films could be produced if the agent (a) comprises at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of formula (I) in which the radicals R3, R4 independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
When using the process present disclosure as contemplated herein for dyeing keratinous material, dyeing's with the best wash fastnesses could be obtained analogously when the agent (a) comprises at least one organic silicon compound of formula (I) in which the radicals R3, R4 independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
Furthermore, dyeing's with the best wash fastnesses could be obtained if the agent (a) comprises at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) in which the radical a represents the number 3. In this case the rest b stands for the number 0.
In a further preferred embodiment, the agent (a) used in the process is wherein it comprises at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of formula (I), wherein
In a further preferred embodiment, a process present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (I),
R1R2N-L-Si(OR3)a(R4)b (I),
where
Organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) which are particularly suitable for solving the problem present disclosure as contemplated herein are
In a further preferred embodiment, a process present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one organic silicon compound (a1) selected from the group of
The organic silicon compounds of formula (I) are commercially available.
(3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, for example, can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich. Also (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane is commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
In a further embodiment, the composition present disclosure as contemplated herein comprises at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (II)
(R5O)c(R6)dSi-(A)e-[NR7-(A′)]f-[O-(A″)]g-[NR8-(A′″)]h-Si(R6′)d′(OR5′)c′ (II).
The organosilicon compounds of formula (II) present disclosure as contemplated herein each carry the silicon-comprising groups (R5O)c(R6)dSi- and —Si(R6′)d′(OR5′)c at both ends.
In the central part of the molecule of formula (II) there are the groups -(A)e- and —[NR7-(A′)]f-
and —[O-(A″)]g- and -[NR8-(A′″)]h-. Here, each of the radicals e, f, g, and h can independently of one another stand for the number 0 or 1, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals e, f, g, and h is different from 0. In other words, an organic silicon compound of formula (II) present disclosure as contemplated herein comprises at least one grouping from the group comprising -(A)- and -[NR7-(A′)]- and —[O-(A″)]- and -[NR8-(A′″)]-.
In the two terminal structural units (R5O)c(R6)dSii- and —Si(R6′)d′(OR5′)c, the radicals R5, R5′, R5″ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group. The radicals R6, R6′ and R6″ independently represent a C1-C6 alkyl group.
Here a stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and d stands for the integer 3-c. If c stands for the number 3, then d is equal to 0. If c stands for the number 2, then d is equal to 1. If c stands for the number 1, then d is equal to 2.
Analogously c′ stands for a whole number from 1 to 3, and d′ stands for the whole number 3-c′. If c′ stands for the number 3, then d′ is 0. If c′ stands for the number 2, then d′ is 1. If c′ stands for the number 1, then d′ is 2.
Films with the highest stability or dyes with the best wash fastnesses could be obtained when the residues c and c′ both stand for the number 3. In this case d and d′ both stand for the number 0.
In another preferred embodiment, a method is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of formula (II),
(R5O)c(R6)dSi-(A)e-[NR7-(A′)]f-[O-(A″)]g-[NR8-(A′″)]h-Si(R6′)d′(OR5′)c′ (II),
where
If c and c′ are both the number 3 and d and d′ are both the number 0, the organic silicon compound of the present disclosure corresponds to formula (IIa)
(R5O)3Si-(A)e-[NR7-(A′)]f-[O-(A″)]g-[NR8-(A′″)]h-Si(OR5′)3 (IIa).
The radicals e, f, g, and h can independently stand for the number 0 or 1, whereby at least one radical from e, f, g, and h is different from zero. The abbreviations e, f, g, and h thus define which of the groupings -(A)e- and -[NR7-(A′)]f- and —[O-(A″)]g- and -[NR8-(A′″)]h- are in the middle part of the organic silicon compound of formula (II).
In this context, the presence of certain groupings has proved to be particularly beneficial in terms of increasing washability. Particularly good results were obtained when at least two of the residues e, f, g, and h stand for the number 1. Especially preferred e and f both stand for the number 1. Furthermore, g and h both stand for the number 0.
If e and f both stand for the number 1 and g and h both stand for the number 0, the organic silicon compound present disclosure as contemplated herein corresponds to formula (IIb)
(R5O)c(R6)dSi-(A)-[NR7-(A′)]—Si(R6′)d′(OR5′)c′ (IIb).
The radicals A, A′, A″, A′″ and A″″ independently represent a linear or branched divalent C1-C20 alkylene group. Preferably the radicals A, A′, A″, A′″ and A″″ independently of one another represent a linear, divalent C1-C20 alkylene group. Further preferably the radicals A, A′, A″, A′″ and A″″ independently represent a linear divalent C1-C6 alkylene group. In particular, the radicals A, A′, A″, A′″ and A″″ independently of one another represent a methylene group (—CH2-), an ethylene group (—CH2-CH2-), a propylene group (—CH2-CH2-CH2-) or a butylene group (—CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-). In particular, the radicals A, A′, A″, A′″ and A″″ stand for a propylene group (—CH2-CH2-CH2-).
The divalent C1-C20 alkylene group may alternatively be referred to as a divalent or divalent C1-C20 alkylene group, by which is meant that each grouping A, A′, A″, A′″ and A″″ may form two bonds.
The linear propylene group (—CH2-CH2-CH2-) can alternatively be referred to as the propane-1,3-diyl group.
If the radical f represents the number 1, then the organic silicon compound of formula (II) present disclosure as contemplated herein comprises a structural grouping —[NR7-(A′)]-.
If the radical f represents the number 1, then the organic silicon compound of formula (II) present disclosure as contemplated herein comprises a structural grouping —[NR8-(A′″)]-.
Wherein R7 and R7 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, a C2-C6 alkenyl group, an amino-C1-C6 alkyl group or a group of the formula (III)
(A″″)-Si(R6″)d″(OR5″)c″ (III).
Very preferably the radicals R7 and R8 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a grouping of the formula (III).
When the radical f represents the number 1 and the radical h represents the number 0, the organic silicon compound present disclosure as contemplated herein comprises the grouping [NR7-(A′)] but not the grouping —[NR8-(A″)]. If the radical R7 now stands for a grouping of the formula (III), the agent (a) comprises an organic silicon compound with 3 reactive silane groups.
In another preferred embodiment, a method is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of formula (II),
(R5O)c(R6)dSi-(A)e-[NR7-(A′)]f-[O-(A″)]g-[NR8-(A′″)]h-Si(R6′)d′(OR5′)c′ (II),
where
In a further preferred embodiment, a method is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one organic silicon compound of formula (II), wherein
Organic silicon compounds of formula (II) which are well suited for solving the problem present disclosure as contemplated herein are:
The organic silicon compounds of formula (II) are commercially available.
Bis(trimethoxysilylpropyl)amines with the CAS number 82985-35-1 can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich.
Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amines with the CAS number 13497-18-2 can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example.
N-methyl-3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine is alternatively referred to as bis(3-trimethoxysilylpropyl)-N-methylamine and can be purchased commercially from Sigma-Aldrich or Fluorochem.
3-(triethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine with the CAS number 18784-74-2 can be purchased for example from Fluorochem or Sigma-Aldrich.
In a further preferred embodiment, a method is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one organic silicon compound (a1) comprising selected from the group of
In further tests, in particular dyeing tests, it has also been found to be particularly advantageous if the agent (a) applied to the keratinous material in the process comprises at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (IV)
R9Si(OR1O)k(R11)m (IV).
The compounds of formula (IV) are organic silicon compounds selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound comprising one or more hydroxyl groups and/or hydrolysable groups per molecule.
The organic silicon compound(s) of formula (IV) may also be called a silane of the alkyl-alkoxy-silane or alkyl-hydroxy-silane type,
R9Si(OR1O)k(R11)m (IV),
where
In a further preferred embodiment, the method is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of formula (IV)
R9Si(OR1O)k(R11)m (IV),
where
In a further preferred embodiment, a process is wherein the agent (a) comprises, in addition to the organic silicon compound or compounds of formula (I), at least one further organic silicon compound of formula (IV)
R9Si(OR1O)k(R11)m (IV),
where
In a further preferred embodiment, a process is wherein the agent (a) comprises, in addition to the organic silicon compound or compounds of formula (II), at least one further organic silicon compound of formula (IV)
R9Si(OR1O)k(R11)m (IV),
where
In a further preferred embodiment, a process is wherein the agent (a) comprises, in addition to the organic silicon compound or compounds of formula (I) and/or (II), at least one further organic silicon compound of formula (IV)
R9Si(OR1O)k(R11)m (IV),
where
In the organic silicon compounds of formula (IV), the radical R9 represents a C1-C18 alkyl group. This C1-C18 alkyl group is saturated and can be linear or branched. Preferably, R9 represents a linear C1-C18 alkyl group. Preferably, R9 represents a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an n-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an n-hexyl group, an n-octyl group, an n-dodecyl group or an n-octyldecyl group. Particularly preferably, R9 represents a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-hexyl group or an n-octyl group.
In the organic silicon compounds of form (IV), the R10 radical represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group. Especially preferably, R10 stands for a methyl group or an ethyl group.
In the organic silicon compounds of form (IV), the radical R11 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group. Especially preferably, R11 stands for a methyl group or an ethyl group.
Furthermore, k stands for a whole number from 1 to 3, and m stands for the whole number 3-k. If k stands for the number 3, then m is equal to 0. If k stands for the number 2, then m is equal to 1. If k stands for the number 1, then m is equal to 2.
Particularly stable films, i.e., dyeing's with particularly good wash fastness properties, could be obtained if an agent (a) comprising at least one organic silicon compound (a1) corresponding to formula (IV): in which the radical k is the number 3, was used in the process. In this case the rest m stands for the number 0.
Organic silicon compounds of the formula (IV) which are particularly suitable for solving the problem present disclosure as contemplated herein are
In a further preferred embodiment, a process present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of formula (IV) comprising selected from the group of
The organic silicon compounds described above are reactive compounds. In this context, it has been found preferable if the agent (a) comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (a)—one or more organic silicon compounds (a1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight and particularly preferably 2 to 8% by weight.
In a further preferred embodiment, a process present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein the agent (a) comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (a)—one or more organic silicon compounds (a1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight and particularly preferably 2 to 8% by weight.
To achieve particularly good dyeing results, it is particularly advantageous to use the organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) and/or (II) in certain quantity ranges on average (a). Particularly preferably, the agent (a) comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (a)—one or more organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) and/or (II) in a total amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight.
In a further preferred embodiment, a process present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein the agent (a) comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (a)—one or more organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) and/or (II) in a total amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight.
Furthermore, it has proven to be particularly preferred if the organic silicon compound(s) of formula (IV) is (are) also present in certain quantity ranges in average (a). Particularly preferably, the agent (a) comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (a)—one or more organic silicon compounds of the formula (IV) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight and particularly preferably 4 to 9% by weight.
In a further preferred embodiment, a process present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein the agent (a) comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (a)—one or more organic silicon compounds of the formula (IV) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight and particularly preferably 3.2 to 10% by weight.
In the course of the work leading to this present disclosure, it was found that particularly stable and uniform films could be obtained on the keratinous material even when the agent (a) included two organic silicon compounds that were structurally different from each other.
In another preferred embodiment, a process present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least two structurally different organic silicon compounds.
In an explicitly quite particularly preferred embodiment, a process present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein an agent (a) is applied to the keratinous material, which agent comprises at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) comprising selected from the group of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane and (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane and additionally comprising at least one organic silicon compound of formula (IV) comprising selected from the group of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane and hexyltriethoxysilane.
In a further preferred embodiment, a method is wherein the agent (a) comprises
In this embodiment, the agent (a) comprises one or more organic silicon compounds of a first group in a total amount of 0.5 to 3% by weight. The organic silicon compounds of this first group are comprising selected from the group of (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl)triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl)triethoxysilane (2-dimethylaminoethyl)trimethoxysilane and/or (2-dimethylaminoethyl)triethoxysilane.
In this embodiment, the agent (a) comprises one or more organic silicon compounds of a second group in a total amount of 3.2 to 10 wt %. The organic silicon compounds of this second group are comprising selected from the group of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltrimethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltrimethoxysilane and/or octadecyltrimethoxysilane.
The organosilicon compound may also be present in the agent (a) in the form of condensation products and/or (partial) hydrolysates of the organosilicon compounds. For example, the condensation products may include the condensation products of two, three or four organosilicon compounds.
Color-Forming Compounds (a2)
When agent (a) is applied to the keratinous material, the organic silicon compound(s) (a1) comprising one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolysable groups per molecule are first hydrolyzed and oligomerized or polymerized in the presence of the water. The hydrolysis products or oligomers formed in this way have a particularly high affinity for the surface of the keratinous material. The simultaneous presence of the coloring compounds (a2) in the agent (a) integrates them into the resulting oligomers or polymers to form a colored film on the keratinous material. Following the application of agent (a), agent (b) is now applied, whereby the film-forming polymers (b1) included in this agent (b) are deposited on the keratinous material in the form of a second film. The successive application of agents (a) and (b) thus creates a layering of several films that is particularly resistant to external influences. The colorant compounds entrapped in these resistant films exhibit good wash fastness.
As an essential component (a2) of the present disclosure, the agent (a) used in the process present disclosure as contemplated herein therefore comprises at least one colorant compound from the group comprising pigments and/or direct dyes.
The use of pigments has proved to be particularly preferable in this context.
In another very particularly preferred embodiment, a process is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one colorant compound (a2) from the group comprising pigments.
Pigments within the meaning of the present disclosure present disclosure are coloring compounds which have a solubility in water at 25° C. of less than 0.5 g/L, preferably less than 0.1 g/L, even more preferably less than 0.05 g/L. Water solubility can be determined, for example, by the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment are weighed in a beaker. A stir-fish is added. Then one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25° C. for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g/L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the possibly finely dispersed pigment, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved pigments remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g/L.
Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and/or organic origin.
In a preferred embodiment, an agent present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one colorant compound (a2) from the group of inorganic and/or organic pigments.
Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be produced, for example, from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt Terra di Siena or graphite. Furthermore, black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used as inorganic color pigments.
Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-comprising silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulphates, chromates and/or molybdates. Preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfo silicates, CI 77007, pigment blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanides, CI77510) and/or carmine (cochineal).
present disclosure As contemplated herein, colored pearlescent pigments are also particularly preferred color pigments. These are usually mica- and/or mica-based and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the layer silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, mainly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxides can also be used as pearlescent pigment. Especially preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the metal oxides mentioned above. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide(s).
In a further preferred embodiment, the process is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one colorant compound (a2) from the group of inorganic pigments selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and/or from colored mica- or mica-based pigments coated with at least one metal oxide and/or a metal oxychloride.
In a further preferred embodiment, the process is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one colorant compound (a2) from the group of pigments selected from mica- or mica-based pigments which are reacted with one or more metal oxides comprising selected from the group of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and/or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and/or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510).
Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine® from Sunstar.
Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona® are, for example:
Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica, CI 77491 (Iron oxides), Tin oxide
Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide)
Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron oxides)
Colorona® SynCopper, Merck, Synthetic Fluorophlogopite (and) Iron Oxides
Colorona® SynBronze, Merck, Synthetic Fluorophlogopite (and) Iron Oxides
Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona® are for example:
Xirona® Le Rouge, Merck, Iron Oxides (and) Silica
In addition, particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure® are for example:
Also particularly preferred pigments with the trade name Flamenco® are, for example:
Flamenco® Summit Turquoise T30D, BASF, Titanium Dioxide (and) Mica
Flamenco® Super Violet 530Z, BASF, Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide
In a further embodiment of the process, the agent (a) may also comprise one or more colorant compounds comprising selected from the group of organic pigments.
The organic pigments are correspondingly insoluble organic dyes or colorants which may be selected, for example, from the group of nitroso, nitro-azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketo-pyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine and/or triarylmethane compounds.
Examples of particularly suitable organic pigments are carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and/or CI 75470.
In another particularly preferred embodiment, a process present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein the composition (a) comprises at least one colorant compound (a2) from the group of organic pigments comprising selected from the group of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments having the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments having the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and/or CI 75470.
The organic pigment can also be a color paint. present disclosure As contemplated herein, the term color varnish is understood to mean particles comprising a layer of absorbed dyes, the unit of particle and dye being insoluble under the above conditions. The particles may be, for example, inorganic substrates, which may be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, or aluminum.
For example, alizarin color varnish can be used.
Due to their excellent light and temperature stability, the use of the above pigments in agent (a) is particularly preferred. It is also preferred if the pigments used have a certain particle size. This particle size leads on the one hand to an even distribution of the pigments in the formed polymer film and on the other hand avoids a rough hair or skin feeling after application of the cosmetic product. present disclosure As contemplated herein, it is therefore advantageous if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D50 of 1 to 50 μm, preferably 5 to 45 μm, preferably 10 to 40 μm, 14 to 30 μm. The mean particle size D50D50, for example, can be determined using dynamic light scattering (DLS).
In a further preferred embodiment, the process is wherein the agent (a) comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (a)—one or more pigments in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 6% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight.
As colorant compound(s) (a2), the agents (a) used in the process may also contain one or more direct dyes. Direct-acting dyes are dyes that draw directly onto the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylene diamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes or indophenols.
The direct dyes within the meaning of the present disclosure present disclosure have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25° C. of more than 0.5 g/L and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments.
Preferably, the direct dyes within the meaning of the present disclosure present disclosure have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25° C. of more than 1 g/L.
Direct dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic, and non-ionic direct dyes.
In a further preferred embodiment, the process is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one anionic, cationic and/or nonionic direct dye as the coloring compound (a2).
In a further preferred embodiment, the process is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one colorant compound (a2) comprising selected from the group of anionic, nonionic, and/or cationic direct dyes.
Suitable cationic direct dyes include Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2, and Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347/Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51 Basic Red 76
As non-ionic direct dyes, non-ionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes can be used. Suitable non-ionic direct dyestuffs are those listed under the international designations or Trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminophenol 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2′-ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2-[(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]benzoic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.
In the course of the work leading to the present disclosure present disclosure, it has been found that dyeing's of particularly high color intensity can be produced with agents (a) comprising at least one anionic direct dye.
In an explicitly quite particularly preferred embodiment, the process is therefore wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one anionic direct dye.
Anionic direct dyes are also called acid dyes. Acid dyes are direct dyes that have at least one carboxylic acid group (—COOH) and/or one sulphonic acid group (—SO3H). Depending on the pH value, the protonated forms (—COOH, —SO3H) of the carboxylic acid or sulphonic acid groups are in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (—OO—, —SO3- present). The proportion of protonated forms increases with decreasing pH. If direct dyes are used in the form of their salts, the carboxylic acid groups or sulphonic acid groups are present in deprotonated form and are neutralized with corresponding stoichiometric equivalents of cations to maintain electro neutrality. Inventive acid dyes can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and/or their potassium salts.
The acid dyes within the meaning of the present disclosure present disclosure have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25° C. of more than 0.5 g/L and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments. Preferably the acid dyes within the meaning of the present disclosure present disclosure have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25° C. of more than 1 g/L.
The alkaline earth salts (such as calcium salts and magnesium salts) or aluminum salts of acid dyes often have a lower solubility than the corresponding alkali salts. If the solubility of these salts is below 0.5 g/L (25° C., 760 mmHg), they do not fall under the definition of a direct dye.
An essential characteristic of acid dyes is their ability to form anionic charges, whereby the carboxylic acid or sulphonic acid groups responsible for this are usually linked to different chromophoric systems. Suitable chromophoric systems can be found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and/or indophenol dyes.
In one embodiment, a process for dyeing keratinous material is thus preferred, which is wherein the composition (a) comprises at least one anionic direct dye comprising selected from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and/or indophenol dyes, the xanthene dyes, the rhodamine dyes, the oxazine dyes and/or the indophenol dyes, the dyes from the abovementioned group each having at least one carboxylic acid group (—COOH), a sodium carboxylate group (—COONa), a potassium carboxylate group (—COOK), a sulfonic acid group (—SO3H), a sodium sulfonate group (—SO3Na) and/or a potassium sulfonate group (—SO3K).
For example, one or more compounds from the following group can be selected as particularly well suited acid dyes: Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n°. C 54, D&C Yellow N° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n° C. 29, Covacap Jaune W 1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No. 5), Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 (CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n° C.015), Acid Orange 10 (C.I. 16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI 50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1; CI 20170; KATSU201; nosodiumsalt; Brown No. 201; RESORCIN BROWN; ACID ORANGE 24; Japan Brown 201; D & C Brown No. 1), Acid Red 14 (C.I.14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; CI 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, CI 16185, C-Red 46, Real red D, FD&C Red Nr.2, Food Red 9, Naphthol red S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red 33, CI 17200), Acid Red 35 (CI C.I.18065), Acid Red 51 (CI 45430, Pyrosin B, Tetraiodfluorescein, Eosin J, Iodeosin), Acid Red 52 (CI 45100, Food Red 106, Solar Rhodamine B, Acid Rhodamine B, Red n° 106 Pontacyl Brilliant Pink), Acid Red 73 (CI 27290), Acid Red 87 (Eosin, CI 45380), Acid Red 92 (COLIPA n° C.53, CI 45410), Acid Red 95 (CI 45425, Erythtosine, Simacid Erythrosine Y), Acid Red 184 (CI 15685), Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43 (Jarocol Violet 43, Ext. D&C Violet n° 2, C.I. 60730, COLIPA n° C.063), Acid Violet 49 (CI 42640), Acid Violet 50 (CI 50325), Acid Blue 1 (Patent Blue, CI 42045), Acid Blue 3 (Patent Blue V, CI 42051), Acid Blue 7 (CI 42080), Acid Blue 104 (CI 42735), Acid Blue 9 (E 133, Patent blue AE, Amido blue AE, Erioglaucin A, CI 42090, C.I. Food Blue 2), Acid Blue 62 (CI 62045), Acid Blue 74 (E 132, CI 73015), Acid Blue 80 (CI 61585), Acid Green 3 (CI 42085, Foodgreen1), Acid Green 5 (CI 42095), Acid Green 9 (C.I.42100), Acid Green 22 (C.I.42170), Acid Green 25 (CI 61570, Japan Green 201, D&C Green No. 5), Acid Green 50 (Brilliant Acid Green BS, C.I. 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black n° 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI 20 470, COLIPA n° B15), Acid Black 52 (CI 15711), Food Yellow 8 (CI 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and/or D&C Brown 1.
For example, the water solubility of anionic direct dyes can be determined in the following way. 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye is placed in a beaker. A stir-fish is added. Then add 100 ml of water. This mixture is heated to 25° C. on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually assessed. If there are still undissolved residues, the amount of water is increased—for example in steps of 10 ml. Water is added until the amount of dye used is completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the dye, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved dyes remains on the filter paper, the solubility test is repeated with a higher quantity of water. If 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye dissolves in 100 ml water at 25° C., the solubility of the dye is 1 g/L.
Acid Yellow 1 is called 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt and has a solubility in water of at least 40 g/L (25° C.).
Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of the sodium salts of mono- and disulfonic acids of 2-(2-quinolyl)-1H-indene-1,3(2H)-dione and has a water solubility of 20 g/L (25° C.).
Acid Yellow 9 is the disodium salt of 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid, its solubility in water is above 40 g/L (25° C.).
Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-4-((4-sulfophenyl)azo)-1H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and is highly soluble in water at 25° C.
Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-1-naphthyl)azo]benzene sulphonate. Its water solubility is more than 7 g/L (25° C.).
Acid Red 18 is the trisodium salt of 7-hydroxy-8-[(E)-(4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl)-diazenyl)]-1,3-naphthalenedisulfonate and has a very high-water solubility of more than 20% by weight.
Acid Red 33 is the disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulphonate, its solubility in water is 2.5 g/L (25° C.).
Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2-(1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid, whose solubility in water is indicated as greater than 10 g/L (25° C.).
Acid Blue 9 is the disodium salt of 2-({4-[N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl]amino]phenyl}{4-[(N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)imino]-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene}methyl)-benzenesulfonate and has a solubility in water of more than 20% by weight (25° C.).
A very particularly preferred process is therefore wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one colorant compound (a2) from the group of anionic direct dyes comprising selected from the group of Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and/or D&C Brown 1.
The direct dye(s), in particular the anionic direct dyes, can be used in different amounts in the medium (a) depending on the desired color intensity. Particularly good results were obtained when the agent (a) comprises—based on its total weight—one or more direct dyes (a2) in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 6% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight.
In a further preferred embodiment, the process is wherein the agent (a) comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (a)—one or more direct dyes (a2) in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 6% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight.
In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent (a) used in the process additionally comprises at least one silicone polymer (a3).
Silicone polymers, which can alternatively be called silicones for short, are understood to be poly(organo)siloxanes. Silicone polymers are a group of synthetic polymers in which silicon atoms are linked via oxygen atoms.
Silicone polymers are generally macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 500 g/mol, preferably at least 1000 g/mol, more preferably at least 2500 g/mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g/mol, which comprise repeating organic units.
The maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size and is partly determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present disclosure present disclosure, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer is not more than 107 g/mol, preferably not more than 106 g/mol, and particularly preferably not more than 105 g/mol.
The silicone polymers comprise many Si—O repeating units, and the Si atoms may carry organic radicals such as alkyl groups or substituted alkyl groups.
Corresponding to the high molecular weight of silicone polymers, these are based on more than 10 Si—O repeat units, preferably more than 50 Si—O repeat units, and more preferably more than 100 Si—O repeat units, most preferably more than 500 Si—O repeat units.
The silicone polymers (a3) included in agent (a) are therefore different from the silanes (a1) also included in agent (a).
In the context of one embodiment, a method for dyeing keratinous material is thus preferred, which is wherein the agent comprises (a):
(a3) at least one silicone polymer.
In the work leading to the present disclosure present disclosure, it was found that incorporation of the silicone polymer (a3) into the agent (a) resulted in an improvement in hair feel.
The film produced by the oligomerization or polymerization of the organosilicon compounds (silanes) (a1) may exhibit a certain stickiness or even softness, especially when higher amounts of silanes (a1) are used, which may have a detrimental effect on the feel of the keratinic materials on the one hand and on the durability of the film on the other. Without being committed to this theory, it is believed that the joint application of the silane (a1) and the silicone polymer (a3) in the medium (a) leads to a reaction or interaction of the two components with each other. When silane and silicone polymer are used together, the silanes appear to form a film, as previously described, into which the silicone polymers are either incorporated, or to which the silicone polymers agglomerate. It has been found that the film formed in this way is much more supple, flexible, durable, and less brittle.
Accordingly, it was observed that the rheological properties of the film produced by agent (a) could be greatly improved by the addition of at least one silicone polymer (a3). In the presence of the silicone polymers (a3), the film became firmer or more rigid, leaving the colored keratinous materials with a less sticky, smoother, and more pleasing appearance. Furthermore, the higher strength of the film also had positive effects on the fastness properties of the keratinic materials, especially on their rub fastness properties. Since the dyed films were more resistant when in contact with combs, brushes, and textiles, they showed less abrasion when in contact with these items.
When certain silicone polymers (a3) were used, the advantages described above were particularly pronounced. It has therefore been found to be particularly preferred if the agents (a) used in the process contain at least one alkoxy-modified silicone polymer and/or at least one amino-modified silicone polymer (a3).
In the context of one embodiment, a method for dyeing keratinous material is thus preferred, which is wherein the agent comprises (a):
(a3) at least one alkoxy-modified and/or amino-modified silicone polymer.
In a further preferred embodiment, a process present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one alkoxy-modified silicone polymer.
Alkoxy-modified silicones are silicones whose structure includes at least one structural alkoxy unit. This structural alkoxy unit can be, for example, an alkoxy group. Alkoxy groups are understood to be C2-C10 alkoxy groups. The alkoxy group may be terminal to the silicone (i.e., present, for example, as the group —O—CH3 or as the group —O—CH2-CH3). However, it is equally present disclosure as contemplated herein if the alkoxy group itself still carries a substituent; in this case, an alkoxy modification is understood to be at least one grouping located on the silicone such as, for example, (—CH2-CH2-O—), (—CH2-CH2-CH2-O—), (—CH(CH3)-CH2-O—), (—CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-O—) or (—CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-O—). Preferably, the alkoxy-modified silicones (A) carry at least one grouping (—CH2-CH2-O—) and/or (—CH2-CH2-CH2-O—).
The alkoxy groups may be linked to the silicone either via a carbon atom or via an oxygen atom, for example, the silicones may bear the structural units of the formula (S-a), (S-b), (S-c) and/or (S-d):
It is particularly preferred if the alkoxy-modified silicone polymer(s) (a3) carry more than one alkoxy group, i.e., if the silicone polymers (a3) are polyalkoxylated. Polyalkoxylated silicones carry as structural units polyoxyalkylene groups, polyoxyethylene groups (i.e., groups of the type [—CH2-CH2-O-]m) and/or poloxypropylene groups (i.e., groups of the type [—CH(CH3)-CH2-O-]m and/or [—CH2-CH2-CH2-O-]m). Preferably, the number of polyoxyalkylene units in the silicone polymer is at least 2. Therefore, m is an integer greater than or equal to 2.
Particularly preferably, the alkoxy-modified silicone (a3) is a nonionic silicone. Non-ionic silicones carry neither positive nor negative charges.
Very particularly suitable polyalkoxylated silicones (a3) comprise at least one structural unit of the formula (S-I)
wherein
n is an integer from 2 to 20, preferably an integer from 4 to 18, more preferably an integer from 6 to 16, still more preferably an integer from 8 to 14, and most preferably the number 12.
The positions marked with an asterisk * in the above formulas represent the free valences of the corresponding bonds, whereby the bond can be to a further Si atom, a further O atom and/or a further C atom.
In the context of one embodiment, a method for dyeing keratinous material is thus preferred, which is wherein the agent comprises (a):
(a3) at least one silicone polymer comprising at least one structural unit of formula (S-I)
A preferred alkoxy-modified silicone polymer (a3) may contain, in addition to one or more structural units of the general formula (S-I), further structural units that differ structurally from the units of formula (S-I). Particularly preferably, the alkoxy-modified silicone polymer additionally comprises one or more dimethylsiloxane units. Depending on whether the silicone of the present disclosure is linear or branched, it has two (in the case of a chain linear silicone) or more (in the case of a branched silicone) end groups. It has been found to be particularly advantageous if a silicone polymer (a3) present disclosure as contemplated herein has a trimethylsilyloxy group (i.e., a group —O—Si(CH3)3) as end groups in each case.
In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the process is therefore wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one silicone polymer (a3) which is composed of structural units of the formula (S-I), the formula (S-II), the formula (S-III) and the formula (S-IV),
wherein n—independently in each structural unit (S-I)—represents in each case an integer from 2 to 20, preferably an integer from 4 to 18, more preferably an integer from 6 to 16, still more preferably an integer from 8 to 14, and most preferably the number 12.
A silicone polymer (a3) composed of structural units of the formula (S-I), the formula (S-II), the formula (S-III) and the formula (S-IV) is understood in this context to mean a silicone which exclusively possesses (in each case one or more) structural units of the formulae (S-I), (S-II), (S-III) and (S-IV). Here, the silicone can also contain different structural units of the formula (S-I), each of which is distinguished by its number n.
The positions marked with an asterisk in the structural units each represent the linkage points to the other structural units. For example, a very particularly preferred silicone polymer (a3) composed of structural units of formula (S-I), formula (S-II), formula (S-III) and formula (S-IV) may have the following structure:
x and y are chosen here depending on the desired molecular weight of the silicone, and n represents one of the preferred or particularly preferred integers described above present disclosure as contemplated herein.
Both low molecular weight and higher molecular weight alkoxy-modified silicones can be used as silicone polymers (a3). Particularly beneficial effects were observed for silicone polymers (a3) with a molar mass of 800 to 10,000 g/mol, preferably of 1,000 to 9,000 g/mol, further preferably of 2,000 to 8,000 g/mol and especially preferably of 2,500 to 5,000 g/mol.
Particularly well-suited silicone polymers include:
Abil B 8843 from Evonik, PEG-14 DIMETHICONE
Xiameter OFX 0193 Fluid from the company Dow Corning, PEG-12 Dimethicone
Furthermore, particularly good results were also obtained when an agent (a) comprising an amino-modified silicone polymer (a3) was used in the process. The amino-modified silicone polymer may alternatively be referred to as an amino-functionalized silicone polymer or also as an amino silicone.
In another preferred embodiment, a method is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one amino-modified silicone polymer.
Agent (a) may contain one or more different amino-modified silicone polymers (a3). Such silicones can be characterized, for example, by the formula (S-V)
M(RaQbSiO(4-a-b)/2)x(RcSiO(4-c)/2)yM (S-V)
in which formula above R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula —R1HZ wherein R1 is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms, or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic amino functional radical comprising at least one amino functional group; “a” takes values ranging from about 0 to about 2, “b” takes values ranging from about 1 to about 3, “a” +“b” is less than or equal to 3, and “c” is a number ranging from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2. 000, preferably from about 3 to about 50 and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number in the range of from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000 and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the prior art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of radicals represented by R include alkyl radicals, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl radicals, such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl radicals, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl, and the like; and sulfur-comprising radicals, such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl, and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, —CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, phenylene, naphthylene, —CH2CH2SCH2CH2-, —CH2CH2OCH2-, —OCH2CH2-, —OCH2 CH2CH2-, —CH2CH(CH3)C(O)OCH2-, —(CH2)3CC(O)OCH2CH2-, —C6H 4C6H4-, —C6H 4CH2C6H4- and —(CH2)3C(O)SCH2CH2-.
Z is an organic amino functional residue comprising at least one amino functional group. One possible formula for Z is NH(CH2)zNH2, where z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is —NH(CH2)z(CH2)zzNH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably an —NHCH2CH 2NH2 residue. Another possible formula for Z is —N(CH2)z(CH2)zzNX2 or —NX2, wherein each X of X2 is independently comprising selected from the group of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
Q is most preferably a polar, amine-functional radical of the formula —CH2CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NH 2. In the formulas, “a” takes values ranging from about 0 to about 2, “b” takes values ranging from about 2 to about 3, “a”+“b” is less than or equal to 3, and “c” is a number ranging from about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of RaQb SiO(4-a-b)/2 units to RcSiO (4-c)/2 units is in the range of about 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:65 and most preferably by about 1:15 to about 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.
In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method present disclosure as contemplated herein is characterized by the application of an agent (a) to the keratinous material, wherein the agent (a) is an amino-modified silicone polymer (a3) of formula (S-VI)
R′aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR′2-b)m—O—SiG3-a-R′a (S-VI),
wherein means:
In another preferred embodiment, a method is characterized by applying an agent (a) to the keratinous material, wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one amino-modified silicone polymer (a3) of formula (S-VII),
wherein m and n are numbers whose sum (m+n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, n preferably assuming values from 0 to 1999 and from 49 to 149, and m preferably assuming values from 1 to 2000, from 1 to 10.
According to the INCI declaration, these silicones are called trimethylsilylamodimethicones.
In another preferred embodiment, a method is characterized by the application of an agent (a) to the keratinous material, wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one amino-modified silicone polymer (a3) of formula (S-VIII)
in which R represents —OH, —O—CH3 or a —CH3 group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m+n1+n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1+n2) preferably assuming values from 0 to 1999 and from 49 to 149 and m preferably assuming values from 1 to 2000, from 1 to 10.
According to the INCI declaration, these amino-modified or amino-functionalized silicone polymers are known as amodimethicones.
Regardless of which amino-modified silicones are used, agents (a) comprising an amino-modified silicone polymer whose amine number is above 0.25 meq/g, preferably above 0.3 meq/g and above 0.4 meq/g, are preferred. The amine number represents the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. The amine number represents the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone.
In another preferred embodiment, a method is characterized by applying an agent (a) to the keratinous material, wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one amino-modified silicone polymer (a3) of the formula of formula (S-IX),
where
Other preferred methods are characterized by the application of an agent (a) to the keratinous material, said agent (a) comprising at least amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula of the formula (S-X),
in which
The silicones of the formulas (S-IX) and (S-X) differ in the grouping at the Si atom carrying the nitrogen-comprising group: In formula (S-IX), R2 represents a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, while the residue in formula (S-X) is a methyl group. The individual Si groupings, which are marked with the indices m and n or p and q, do not have to be present as blocks; rather, the individual units can also be present in a statistically distributed manner, i.e., in the formulas (S-IX) and (S-X), not every R1-Si(CH3)2 group is necessarily bound to an —[O—Si(CH3)2] grouping.
Processes in which an agent (a) comprising at least one amino-modified silicone polymer (a3) of the formula of the formula (S-XI) is applied to the keratin fibers have also proved to be particularly effective regarding the desired effects
located in the
A represents a group —OH, —O—Si(CH3)3, —O—Si(CH3)2OH, —O—Si(CH3)2OCH3,
D represents a group —H, —Si(CH3)3, —Si(CH3)2OH, —Si(CH3)2OCH3, b, n, and c stand for integers between 0 and 1000, with the specifications
In the above formula (S-XI), the individual siloxane units are statistically distributed with the indices b, c, and n, i.e., they do not necessarily have to be block copolymers.
Particularly good effects regarding the improvement of rub fastness were observed when an agent (a) comprising a special 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymer (a3) was applied to the keratinous material in the procedures. This very particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (S-XIII)
In the context of one embodiment, a method for dyeing keratinous material is thus preferred, which is wherein the agent comprises (a):
(a3) at least one silicone polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (S-XIII)
Particularly good effects in terms of improving rub fastness were also observed when an agent (a) comprising a special 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymer (a3) was applied to the keratinous material in the procedures. This very particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprises structural units of the formulae (S-XII) and of the formula (S-XIII)
In an explicitly quite particularly preferred embodiment, a process present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one amino-modified silicone polymer (a3) which comprises structural units of the formula (S-XII) and of the formula (S-XIII)
Corresponding 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymers are described below.
A very particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicone polymer is known as amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer and is commercially available in the form of the raw material Belsil ADM 8301 E from Wacker.
As a 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone, for example, a silicone can be used which has structural units of the formulae (S-XII), (S-XIII′) and (S-XIV′)
in which
Particularly preferred compositions (a) present disclosure as contemplated herein contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (S-XV)
located in the
B represents a group —OH, —O—Si(CH3)3, —O—Si(CH3)2OH, —O—Si(CH3)2OCH3,
D represents a group —H, —Si(CH3)3, —Si(CH3)2OH, —Si(CH3)2OCH3, a, b, and c stand independently for integers between 0 and 1000, with the condition a+b+c>0
m and an independently of each other stand for integers between 1 and 1000
with the proviso that
Structural formula (Si-VI) is intended to illustrate that the siloxane groups n and m do not necessarily have to be directly bonded to a terminal grouping B or D, respectively. Rather, in preferred formulas (Si-VI) a>0 or b>0 and in particularly preferred formulas (Si-VI) a>0 and c>0, i.e., the terminal grouping B or D is preferably attached to a dimethylsiloxy grouping. Also, in formula (Si-VI), the siloxane units a, b, c, m, and n are preferably statistically distributed.
The silicones used present disclosure as contemplated herein represented by formula (Si-VI) can be trimethylsilyl-terminated (D or B=—Si(CH3)3), but they can also be dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated on two sides or dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated and dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated on one side. Silicones particularly preferred in the context of the present disclosure present disclosure are selected from silicones in which
to everyone.
To produce particularly resistant films, the agent (a) comprises the silicone polymer(s), in particular the alkoxy-modified and/or the amino-modified silicone polymers, preferably in specific ranges of amounts.
Particularly flexible films of low tack were obtained when an agent (a) was used in the process which comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (a)—one or more silicone polymers (a3) in a total amount of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight.
In the context of a further preferred embodiment, a process is wherein the agent (a) comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (a)—one or more silicone polymers in a total amount of from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight and most preferably from 2 to 8% by weight.
In an explicitly quite particularly preferred embodiment, a process is wherein the agent (a) comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (a)—one or more alkoxy-modified silicone polymers in a total amount of from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and most preferably from 2 to 8% by weight.
In the context of an explicitly quite particularly preferred embodiment, a process is wherein the agent (a) comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (a)—one or more amino-modified silicone polymers in a total amount of from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably from 2 to 8% by weight.
pH Value of the Agent (a)
It has been found preferable if the agent (a) is made up in the form of a water-comprising agent adjusted to an alkaline pH.
To adjust the pH value, the agent (a) may contain at least one alkalizing agent.
To adjust the desired pH, the agents (a) may therefore also contain at least one alkalizing agent. The pH values for the purposes of the present disclosure present disclosure are pH values measured at a temperature of 22° C.
As alkalizing agent, agent (a) may contain, for example, ammonia, alkanolamines and/or basic amino acids.
The alkanolamines that can the agent in the compositions are preferably selected from primary amines having a C2-C6 alkyl parent carrying at least one hydroxyl group. Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed by 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol.
Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from 2-aminoethan-1-ol and/or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol. A particularly preferred embodiment is therefore wherein the agent present disclosure as contemplated herein comprises an alkanolamine selected from 2-aminoethan-1-ol and/or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol as alkalizing agent.
For the purposes of the present disclosure, an amino acid is an organic compound comprising in its structure at least one protonatable amino group and at least one —COOH or one —SO3H group. Preferred amino acids are amino carboxylic acids, especially α-(alpha)-amino carboxylic acids and ω-amino carboxylic acids, whereby α-amino carboxylic acids are particularly preferred.
Basic amino acids are those amino acids which have an isoelectric point pI greater than 7.
Basic a-amino carboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom. In the context of the present disclosure present disclosure, both possible enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or their mixtures, especially as racemates. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally preferred isomeric form, usually in L-configuration.
The basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group formed by arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine, especially preferably arginine and lysine. In another particularly preferred embodiment, an agent present disclosure as contemplated herein is therefore wherein the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group arginine, lysine, ornithine and/or histidine.
In addition, the product may contain other alkalizing agents, especially inorganic alkalizing agents. Inorganic alkalizing agents usable present disclosure as contemplated herein are preferably selected from the group formed by sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
Particularly preferred alkalizing agents are ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-Amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
Although the agents (a) are preferably adjusted to pH values in the alkaline range, it may nevertheless be necessary in principle to also use acidifiers in small quantities for fine adjustment of the desired pH value. Acidifiers suitable present disclosure as contemplated herein are, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid or also dilute mineral acids (such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid).
However, in the course of the work leading to the present disclosure present disclosure, it has been found that the presence of the alkalizing agent or the adjustment of the alkaline pH is essential for the formation of resistant films on the keratinous material. The presence of excessive amounts of acids can have a negative effect on the strength of the films. For this reason, it has proved preferable to keep the quantities of acids used in the medium (a) as low as possible. For this reason, it is advantageous if the total amount of organic and/or inorganic acids included in the agent (a) does not exceed a certain value.
In a further preferred embodiment, a process is wherein the total amount of organic acids from the group comprising citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, and lactic acid included in the agent (a) is below 1% by weight, preferably below 0.7% by weight, more preferably below 0.5% by weight, even more preferably below 0.1% by weight and most preferably below 0.01% by weight.
In a further preferred embodiment, a process is wherein the total amount of inorganic acids from the group comprising hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid included in the agent (a) is below 1% by weight, preferably below 0.7% by weight, more preferably below 0.5% by weight, still more preferably below 0.1% by weight and very particularly preferably below 0.01% by weight.
The maximum total amounts of the acids included in the agent (a) given above are always based on the total weight of the agent (a).
Agent (b)
The method of treatment of keratinous material includes, in addition to the application of agent (a), the application of agent (b). The agent (b) is wherein it comprises at least one sealing reagent (b1).
The agent (b) is a post-treatment agent and the application of agent (b) to the keratinous material treated with agent (a) has the effect of making the colorations obtained in the process more durable. In particular, the use of agent (b) can improve the fastness to washing and the fastness to rubbing of the dyeing's obtained in the process.
It is preferred that the sealing reagent comprises a compound comprising selected from the group of film forming polymers, alkalizing agents, acidifying agents, and mixtures thereof.
It may be preferred that the sealing reagent comprises a film-forming polymer.
Polymers are macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 1000 g/mol, preferably of at least 2500 g/mol, particularly preferably of at least 5000 g/mol, which consist of identical, repeating organic units. The polymers of the present disclosure present disclosure may be synthetically produced polymers which are manufactured by polymerization of one type of monomer or by polymerization of different types of monomer which are structurally different from each other. If the polymer is produced by polymerizing a type of monomer, it is called a homo-polymer. If structurally different monomer types are used in polymerization, the resulting polymer is called a copolymer.
The maximum molecular weight of the polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size and is determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present disclosure present disclosure, it is preferred that the maximum molecular weight of the film-forming hydrophobic polymer (c) is not more than 107 g/mol, preferably not more than 106 g/mol and particularly preferably not more than 105 g/mol.
present disclosure As contemplated herein, a film-forming polymer is a polymer which can form a film on a substrate, for example on a keratinic material or a keratinic fiber. The formation of a film can be demonstrated, for example, by viewing the polymer-treated keratinous material under a microscope.
The film-forming polymers (b1) in the agent (b) can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic.
In a first embodiment, it may be preferred to use at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer in agent (b).
A hydrophobic polymer is a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25° C. (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight.
The water solubility of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer can be determined in the following way, for example. 1 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. Make up to 100 g with water. A stir-fish is added, and the mixture is heated to 25° C. on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually assessed. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to a high turbidity of the mixture, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the polymer is less than 1% by weight.
These include acrylic acid-type polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulose polymers, nitrocellulose polymers, silicone polymers, acrylamide-type polymers, and polyisoprenes.
Particularly well suited film-forming, hydrophobic polymers are, for example, polymers from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and/or polyamides.
In a further preferred embodiment, a composition (b) is wherein it comprises at least one film-forming, hydrophobic polymer (b1) comprising selected from the group of the copolymers of acrylic acid, the copolymers of methacrylic acid, the homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, the homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and/or polyamides.
The film-forming hydrophobic polymers, which are selected from the group of synthetic polymers, polymers obtainable by radical polymerization or natural polymers, have proved to be particularly suitable for solving the problem present disclosure as contemplated herein.
Other particularly well-suited film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homopolymers or copolymers of olefins, such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinyl amides, the esters, or amides of (meth)acrylic acid having at least one C1-C20 alkyl group, an aryl group or a C2-C10 hydroxyalkyl group.
Other film-forming hydrophobic polymers may be selected from the homo- or copolymers of isooctyl (meth)acrylate, isononyl (meth)acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate), isopentyl (meth)acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate), isobutyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, methyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate, 3-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate and/or mixtures thereof.
Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of (meth)acrylamide, N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides, in those with C2-C18 alkyl groups, such as N-ethyl acrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, le N-octylacrylamide, N-di(C1-C4)alkyl(meth)acrylamide.
Other preferred anionic copolymers are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C1-C6 alkyl esters, as they are marketed under the INCI Declaration Acrylates Copolymers. A suitable commercial product is for example Aculyn® 33 from Rohm & Haas. Copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C1-C6 alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol are also preferred. Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are especially acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid; suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are especially steareth-20 or ceteth-20.
Very particularly preferred polymers on the market are, for example, Aculyn® 22 (Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyn® 28 (Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001® (Acryla-tes/Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure 3001® (Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Plus® (Acrylates/Aminoacrylates C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Synthalen W 2000® (Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer) or the Rohme und Haas distributed Soltex OPT (Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl methacrylate Copolymer).
Suitable polymers based on vinyl monomers may include, for example, the homopolymers and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl-(C1-C6)alkyl-pyrrole, vinyl oxazole, vinyl thiazole, vinyl pyrimidine or vinyl imidazole.
Also particularly suitable are the copolymers octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as those sold commercially by NATIONAL STARCH under the trade names AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47, or the copolymers of acrylates/octylacrylamides sold under the trade names DERMACRYL® LT and DERMACRYL® 79 by NATIONAL STARCH.
Suitable olefin-based polymers include homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butene, isoprene and butadiene.
In another embodiment, the film-forming hydrophobic polymers may be the block copolymers comprising at least one block of styrene or the derivatives of styrene. These block copolymers may be copolymers comprising one or more blocks in addition to a styrene block, such as styrene/ethylene, styrene/ethylene/butylene, styrene/butylene, styrene/isoprene, styrene/butadiene. Such polymers are commercially distributed by BASF under the trade name “Luvitol HSB”.
Surprisingly, it was found that particularly intense and washfast colorations could be obtained when agent (b) included at least one film-forming polymer as sealing reagent (b1), which was comprising selected from the group of homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl alcohol, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers and copolymers of propylene, homopolymers and copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and polyamides.
In a further preferred embodiment, a process is wherein the agent (b) comprises at least one film-forming polymer as sealing agent (b1), which is comprising selected from the group of the homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, the homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid, the homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid esters, the homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl alcohol, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers and copolymers of propylene, homopolymers and copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and polyamides.
In a further embodiment, it may be preferred to use at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer as sealing reagent (b1) in agent (b).
A hydrophilic polymer is a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25° C. (760 mmHg) of more than 1% by weight, preferably more than 2% by weight.
The water solubility of the film-forming, hydrophilic polymer can be determined in the following way, for example. 1 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. Make up to 100 g with water. A stir-fish is added, and the mixture is heated to 25° C. on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually assessed. A completely dissolved polymer appears macroscopically homogeneous. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to a high turbidity of the mixture, the mixture is filtered. If no undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the polymer is more than 1% by weight.
Nonionic, anionic, and cationic polymers can be used as film-forming, hydrophilic polymers.
Suitable film-forming hydrophilic polymers may be selected, for example, from the group comprising polyvinylpyrrolidone (co)polymers, polyvinyl alcohol (co)polymers, vinyl acetate (co)polymers, the carboxyvinyl (co)polymers, the acrylic acid (co)polymers, the methacrylic acid (co)polymers, the natural gums, the polysaccharides and/or the acrylamide (co)polymers.
Furthermore, it is particularly preferred to use polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and/or a vinylpyrrolidone-comprising copolymer as film-forming hydrophilic polymer.
In another very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent (b) is wherein it comprises at least one film-forming hydrophilic polymer comprising selected from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and the copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone.
It is further preferred if the agent comprises polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) as the film-forming hydrophilic polymer. Surprisingly, the wash fastness of the dyes obtained with PVP-comprising agents (b9 was also particularly good.
Particularly well-suited polyvinylpyrrolidones are available, for example, under the name Luviskol® K from BASF SE, especially Luviskol® K 90 or Luviskol® K 85 from BASF SE.
The polymer PVP K30, which is marketed by Ashland (ISP, POI Chemical), can also be used as another explicitly very well suited polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). PVP K 30 is a polyvinylpyrrolidone which is highly soluble in cold water and has the CAS number 9003-39-8. The molecular weight of PVP K 30 is about 40000 g/mol.
Other particularly suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are the substances known under the trade names LUVITEC K 17, LUVITEC K 30, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 80, LUVITEC K 85, LUVITEC K 90 and LUVITEC K 115 and available from BASF.
The use of film-forming hydrophilic polymers (b1) from the group of copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone has also led to particularly good and washfast color results.
Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl ester copolymers, such as those marketed under the trademark Luviskol® (BASF), are particularly suitable film-forming hydrophilic polymers. Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73, both vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, are particularly preferred non-ionic polymers.
Of the vinylpyrrolidone-comprising copolymers, a styrene/VP copolymer and/or a vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer and/or a VP/DMAPA acrylates copolymer and/or a VP/vinyl caprolactam/DMAPA acrylates copolymer are particularly preferred in cosmetic compositions.
Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers are marketed under the name Luviskol® VA by BASF SE. For example, a VP/Vinyl Caprolactam/DMAPA Acrylates copolymer is sold under the trade name Aquaflex® SF-40 by Ashland Inc. For example, a VP/DMAPA acrylates copolymer is marketed by Ashland under the name Styleze CC-10 and is a highly preferred vinylpyrrolidone-comprising copolymer.
Other suitable copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone may also be those obtained by reacting N-vinylpyrrolidone with at least one further monomer from the group comprising V-vinylformamide, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, acrylamide, vinylcaprolactam, vinylcaprolactone and/or vinyl alcohol.
In another very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent (b) is wherein it comprises at least one film-forming hydrophilic polymer (b1) comprising selected from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/vinylcaprolactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/vinylformamide copolymers and/or vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl alcohol copolymers.
Another fussy copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone is the polymer known under the INCI designation maltodextrin/VP copolymer.
Furthermore, intensively colored keratinous material, especially hair, could be obtained with particularly good wash fastness properties when a nonionic film-forming hydrophilic polymer was used as the film-forming hydrophilic polymer.
In another embodiment, the agent (b) may comprise at least one nonionic film-forming hydrophilic polymer (b1).
present disclosure As contemplated herein, a non-ionic polymer is understood to be a polymer which in a protic solvent—such as water—under standard conditions does not carry structural units with permanent cationic or anionic groups, which must be compensated by counterions while maintaining electron neutrality. Cationic groups include quaternized ammonium groups but not protonated amines. Anionic groups include carboxylic and sulphonic acid groups.
Preference is given to products comprising, as a non-ionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer, at least one polymer comprising selected from the group of
If copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are used, it is again preferable if the molar ratio of the structural units included in the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer included in the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20:80 to 80:20, in particular from 30:70 to 60:40. Suitable copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example, under the trademarks Luviskol® VA 37, Luviskol® VA 55, Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73 from BASF SE.
Another particularly preferred polymer is selected from the INCI designation VP/Methacrylamide/Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, which is available under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.
Another particularly preferred nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N,N-dimethylaminiopropylmethacrylamide, which is sold, for example, by ISP under the INCI designation VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, e.g., under the trade name Styleze® CC 10.
A cationic polymer is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamide and 3-(methacryloylamino)propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI designation: Polyquaternium-69), which is marketed, for example, under the trade name AquaStyle® 300 (28-32 wt. % active substance in ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350000) by ISP.
Other suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers include
Polyquaternium-11 is the reaction product of diethyl sulphate with a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate. Suitable commercial products are available under the names Dehyquart® CC 11 and Luviquat® PQ 11 PN from BASF SE or Gafquat 440, Gafquat 734, Gafquat 755 or Gafquat 755N from Ashland Inc.
Polyquaternium-46 is the reaction product of vinylcaprolactam and vinylpyrrolidone with methylvinylimidazolium methosulfate and is available for example under the name Luviquat® Hold from BASF SE. Polyquaternium-46 is preferably used in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight—based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It particularly prefers to use polyquaternium-46 in combination with a cationic guar compound. It is even highly preferred that polyquaternium-46 is used in combination with a cationic guar compound and polyquaternium-11.
Suitable anionic film-forming, hydrophilic polymers can be, for example, acrylic acid polymers, which can be in non-crosslinked or crosslinked form. Such products are sold commercially under the trade names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Lubrizol or under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3V Sigma (The Sun Chemicals, Inter Harz).
Examples of suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of natural gums are xanthan gum, gellan gum, carob gum.
Examples of suitable film-forming hydrophilic polymers from the group of polysaccharides are hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose.
Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of acrylamides are, for example, polymers prepared from monomers of (meth)acrylamido-C1-C4-alkyl sulfonic acid or salts thereof. Corresponding polymers may be selected from the polymers of polyacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, poly2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, poly-2-methylacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and/or poly-2-methylacrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid.
Preferred polymers of poly(meth)arylamido-C1-C4-alkyl-sulfonic acids are crosslinked and at least 90% neutralized. These polymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
Cross-linked and fully or partially neutralized polymers of the poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid type are available under the INCI names “Ammonium Polyacrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulphonates” or “Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramides”.
Another preferred polymer of this type is the crosslinked poly-2-acrylamido-2methyl-propanesulfonic acid polymer sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS, which is partially neutralized with ammonia.
In another explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, a process is wherein the agent (b) comprises at least one anionic, film-forming, polymer (b1).
In this context, the best results were obtained when the agent (b) comprises, as sealing reagent (b1), at least one film-forming polymer comprising at least one structural unit of formula (P-I) and at least one structural unit of formula (P-II)
where
M is a hydrogen atom or ammonium (NH4), sodium, potassium, 12 magnesium or 12 calcium.
In a further preferred embodiment, a process present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein the agent (b) comprises at least one film-forming polymer as sealing reagent (b1), which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (P-I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (P-II)
where
M is a hydrogen atom or ammonium (NH4), sodium, potassium, 12 magnesium or 12 calcium.
When M represents a hydrogen atom, the structural unit of the formula (P-I) is based on an acrylic acid unit.
When M stands for an ammonium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (P-I) is based on the ammonium salt of acrylic acid.
When M stands for a sodium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (P-I) is based on the sodium salt of acrylic acid.
When M stands for a potassium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (P-I) is based on the potassium salt of acrylic acid.
If M stands for a half equivalent of a magnesium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (P-I) is based on the magnesium salt of acrylic acid.
If M stands for a half equivalent of a calcium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (P-I) is based on the calcium salt of acrylic acid.
The film-forming polymer or polymers (b1) are preferably used in certain ranges of amounts in the agent (b). In this context, it has proved particularly preferable for solving the problem present disclosure as contemplated herein if the agent (b) comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (b)—one or more film-forming polymers (b1) in a total amount of from 0.1 to 18% by weight, preferably from 1 to 16% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 14.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8 to 12% by weight.
In a further preferred embodiment, a process is wherein the agent (b) comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (b)—one or more film-forming polymers (b1) in a total amount of from 0.1 to 18% by weight, preferably from 1 to 16% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 14.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8 to 12% by weight.
The application of agent (b) is intended to seal and fix the film initially produced by the application of agent (a). Here, the film produced by agent (b) is preferably not colored itself. In this way, the uncolored film produced by agent (b) is above the colored film produced by agent (a) and can protect the latter from external influences. In this way, it can also be ensured that any abrasion of the second film (b) that takes place to a certain extent does not lead to any color changes in the entire film system. It is therefore particularly preferred if the agent (b) comprises no or only small amounts of colorant compounds.
In a further preferred embodiment, a process is wherein the total amount of colorant compounds from the group comprising pigments and direct dyes included in the agent (b) is below 0.2% by weight, preferably below 0.1% by weight, even more preferably below 0.05% by weight and very particularly preferably below 0.01% by weight.
The total amount of colorant compounds from the group of pigments and direct dyes is based on the total weight of the formulation (b).
In an alternative embodiment, the sealing reagent (b1) comprises an alkalizing agent.
Particularly preferably, the alkalizing agent is comprising selected from the group of ammonia, C2-C6 alkanolamines, basic amino acids, alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
In another particularly preferred embodiment, a process is wherein the agent (b) comprises at least one alkalizing agent as sealing reagent (b1), which is comprising selected from the group of ammonia, C2-C6 alkanolamines, basic amino acids, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal carbonates and alkaline earth metal carbonates.
It has been found that aftertreatment with an agent (b) comprising ammonia exerts a particularly good influence on improving the wash fastness and rub fastness of the dyeing's obtained in the process.
In the context of a further, very particularly preferred embodiment, a method is wherein the composition (b) comprises ammonia as sealing reagent (b1).
Good results were also obtained when composition (b) included at least one C2-C6 alkanolamine as sealing reagent (b1).
The alkanolamines that can be used in composition (b) can be selected, for example, from the group of primary amines having a C2-C6 alkyl parent carrying at least one hydroxyl group. Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed by 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol.
In a further preferred embodiment, a process present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein the composition (b) comprises, as sealing reagent (b1), at least one alkalizing agent from the group of alkanolamines, which is preferably comprising selected from the group of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol and 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
Likewise, good results were obtained when composition (b) included at least one basic amino acid as sealing reagent (b1).
For the purposes of the present disclosure, an amino acid is an organic compound comprising in its structure at least one protonatable amino group and at least one —COOH or one —SO3H group. Preferred amino acids are amino carboxylic acids, especially α-(alpha)-amino carboxylic acids and ω-amino carboxylic acids, whereby α-amino carboxylic acids are particularly preferred.
present disclosure As contemplated herein, basic amino acids are those amino acids which have an isoelectric point pI of greater than 7.0.
Basic α-amino carboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom. In the context of the present disclosure present disclosure, both possible enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or their mixtures, especially as racemates. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally preferred isomeric form, usually in L-configuration.
The basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group formed by arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine, especially preferably arginine and lysine. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the method is therefore wherein the sealing reagent (b1) is an alkalizing agent comprising a basic amino acid comprising selected from the group of arginine, lysine, ornithine and/or histidine.
In a further preferred embodiment, the method is wherein the agent (b) comprises as sealing reagent (b1) at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group of basic amino acids, which is preferably selected from the group of arginine, lysine, ornithine, and histidine.
Good results were also obtained when the agent (b) included at least one alkali metal hydroxide as sealing reagent (b1). Examples of well-suited alkali metal hydroxides are sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
Good results were also obtained when the composition (b) included, as sealing reagent (b1), an alkalizing agent comprising at least one alkaline earth metal hydroxide. Suitable alkaline earth metal hydroxides include magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and barium hydroxide.
Good results were also obtained when the agent (b) included at least one alkali metal silicate and/or alkali metal metasilicate as sealing reagent (b1). Suitable alkali metal silicates include sodium silicate and potassium silicate. Suitable alkali metal metasilicates include sodium metasilicate and potassium metasilicate.
Good results were also obtained when the agent (b) included at least one alkali metal carbonate and/or alkaline earth metal carbonate as sealing reagent (b1). Suitable alkali metal carbonates include sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate. Suitable alkaline earth metal carbonates include magnesium carbonate and calcium carbonate.
Within the group of the sealing reagents (b1) in the form of an alkalizing agent, ammonia, C2-C6 alkanolaminenes, basic amino acids and alkali metal hydroxides have proved to be particularly suitable.
In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, the process is wherein the agent (b) comprises as sealing reagent (b1) at least one alkalizing agent comprising selected from the group of ammonia, C2-C6 alkanolamines, basic amino acids and alkali metal hydroxides.
In another particularly preferred embodiment, the process is wherein the agent (b) comprises, as sealing reagent (b1), at least one alkalizing agent comprising selected from the group of ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-ol, 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
Composition (b) comprises the alkalizing agent as a sealing reagent (b1) in a cosmetic carrier, preferably in an aqueous cosmetic carrier.
In this context, it has been found preferable if the agent (b) comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (b)—5.0 to 99.0% by weight, preferably 15.0 to 97.0% by weight, more preferably 25.0 to 97.0% by weight, still more preferably 35.0 to 97.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 45.0 to 97.0% by weight of water.
In the context of a further embodiment, the process is wherein the agent (b) comprises—based on the total weight of the agent (b)—5.0 to 99.0% by weight, preferably 15.0 to 97.0% by weight, more preferably 25.0 to 97.0% by weight, still more preferably 35.0 to 97.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 45.0 to 97.0% by weight of water.
The alkalizing agents included in the agent (b) exert an influence on the pH value of the agent (b). It was found that certain alkaline pH values have a beneficial effect on the dyeing performance achievable in the process and the fastness properties of the dyeing's.
For this reason, it is preferred that the agent (b) comprising an alkalizing agent as sealing reagent (b1) has a pH of from 7.0 to 12.0, preferably from 7.5 to 11.5, more preferably from 8.0 to 11.0, and most preferably from 8.5 to 9.5.
The pH value can be measured using the usual methods known from the state of the art, such as pH measurement using glass electrodes via combination electrodes or using pH indicator paper.
In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the process is wherein the agent (b) comprises an alkalizing agent as sealing reagent (b1) and has a pH of from 7.0 to 12.0, preferably from 7.5 to 11.5, more preferably from 8.0 to 11.0 and most preferably from 8.5 to 9.5.
The pH values for the purposes of the present disclosure present disclosure are pH values measured at a temperature of 22° C.
In a still further alternative embodiment, the sealing reagent (b1) comprises an acidifying agent.
Particularly preferably, the acidifying agent is comprising selected from the group of inorganic acids, organic acids, and mixtures thereof.
Good results could be obtained when agent (b) comprises at least one inorganic acid as sealing reagent (b1). Suitable inorganic acids are, for example, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid and/or hydrochloric acid, with sulfuric acid being particularly preferred.
In a further preferred embodiment, the process is wherein the agent (b) comprises, as sealing reagent (b1), at least one acidifying agent comprising selected from the group of inorganic acids, which is preferably comprising selected from the group of phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, and mixtures thereof.
In a further, even more preferred embodiment, the method is wherein the agent (b) comprises sulfuric acid as sealing reagent (b1).
Good results were also obtained when agent (b) included at least one organic acid as sealing reagent (b1). The organic acid is preferably comprising selected from the group of formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, Glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, corkic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o,m,p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluoylic acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, bicarbamic acid, 4,4′-dicyano-6,6′-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6, 7-napthalenepentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, glycolic acid, gluconic acid, lactic acid, maleic acid, ascorbic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof.
In a further preferred embodiment, the method is wherein the agent (b) comprises as sealing reagent (b1) at least one acidifying agent comprising selected from the group of organic acids, wherein the organic acid is preferably comprising selected from the group of formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, corkic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, Maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o,m,p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluoylic acid, hydratropasic acid, atropasic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, bicarbamic acid, 4,4′-dicyano-6,6′-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2, 4-pentane tricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrole carboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-napthalene pentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazole carboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, glycolic acid, gluconic acid, lactic acid, maleic acid, ascorbic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof.
In a further, even more preferred embodiment, the method is wherein the agent (b) comprises acetic acid as sealing reagent (b1).
Also, suitable acidifiers include methanesulfonic acid and/or 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid.
Within the group of the above-mentioned sealing reagents (b1) in the form of an acidifying agent, sulfuric acid and/or acetic acid have proved to be particularly suitable.
In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, the process is wherein the agent (b) comprises as sealing reagent (b1) at least one acidifying agent comprising selected from the group of sulfuric acid, acetic acid, and mixtures thereof.
The agent (b) comprises the acidifying agent as sealing reagent (b1) in a cosmetic carrier, preferably in an aqueous cosmetic carrier.
The acidifying agents included in the agent (b) exert an influence on the pH of the agent (b). It was found that acidic pH values also have a beneficial effect on the dyeing performance achievable in the process and the fastness properties of the dyeing's.
For this reason, it is preferred that the agent (b) comprising an acidifying agent as sealing reagent (b1) has a pH of from 2.0 to 6.5, preferably from 3.0 to 6.0, more preferably from 4.0 to 6.0, and most preferably from 4.5 to 5.5.
The pH value can be measured using the usual methods known from the state of the art, such as pH measurement using glass electrodes via combination electrodes or using pH indicator paper.
In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the process is wherein the agent (b) comprises an acidifying agent as sealing reagent (b1) and has a pH of from 2.0 to 6.5, preferably from 3.0 to 6.0, more preferably from 4.0 to 6.0, and most preferably from 4.5 to 5.5.
The pH values for the purposes of the present disclosure present disclosure are pH values measured at a temperature of 22° C.
Agent (c)
The agent (c) may be referred to as an after-treatment agent. Agent (c) is characterized by the presence of two selected silicones.
The silicone oils included in agent (c) comprise Si—O repeating units, where the Si atoms may carry organic radicals such as alkyl groups or substituted alkyl groups.
The silicones included in agent (c) are polymeric compounds whose molecular weight is at least 500 g/mol, preferably at least 1000 g/mol, further preferably at least 2500 g/mol, and particularly preferably of at least 5000 g/mol. The silicone oils included in agent (c) are therefore different from the organic silicon compounds of agent (a).
The two silicones are hydroxy terminated, which means that each of the two silicones has at least one terminal OH group.
Another object of the application is, in other words, a method for coloring keratinous material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps:
In the course of the work leading to the present disclosure present disclosure, it was found that the silicones used in agent (c) can have a strong influence on the washout resistance of the colored keratinous material (or hair).
It has been found that the layers or films formed on the keratinous material by application of agents (a) and/or (b) are stabilized by the hydroxy terminated polyorganosiloxanes included in agent (c). Without wishing to be bound by this theory, it is believed that the hydroxy terminated polyorganosiloxanes form covalent bonds with the organic silicon compound(s) or their reaction products included in the formed layer.
Suitable hydroxy terminated polyorganosiloxanes are those with the INCI designation dimethiconol.
It has been found to be particularly advantageous if the agent (c) is, as hydroxy terminated polyorganosiloxane (c1), a polyorganosiloxane of the formula (I)
wherein
X1 and X2 are independently OH, OR1, R2, O-PDMS or O-fSiloxane,
X3 is hydrogen or a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms per radical, PDMS or fSiloxane,
X4 is a remainder of the formula
and
a is a number from 1 to 100,
where
R1 is an alkyl radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms,
R2 is a monovalent, saturated, or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical which is optionally substituted by the elements N, P, S, O, Si, and halogen and has 1 to 200 carbon atoms per radical,
PDMS stands
for,
fSiloxan stands
for,
R3 independent of one another is in each case a monovalent saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 200 carbon atoms per radical and optionally substituted by the elements N, P, S, O, Si, and halogen,
A is a radical of the formula R6-[NR7-R8-]fNR72,
where
R6 is a divalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical comprising 3 to 18 carbon atoms,
R7 is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms or an acyl radical,
R8 is a divalent hydrocarbon radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
b is a number from 1 to 2000,
e is 0 or a number from 1 to 2000,
d is a number from 1 to 1000,
e is 0 or a number from 1 to 5,
f is 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4,
Z is hydrogen, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms
or,
R4 is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical optionally comprising N and/or O atoms and having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and
R5 is a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally comprising N and/or O atoms and having 3 to 12 carbon atoms,
with the proviso that the polyorganosiloxane of formula (I) has at least one terminal OH group.
In the context of a further explicitly quite particularly preferred embodiment, a process present disclosure as contemplated herein is wherein the agent (c) comprises at least one polyorganosiloxane of the formula (I)
wherein
X1 and X2 are independently OH, OR1, R2, O-PDMS or O-fSiloxane,
X3 is hydrogen or a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms per radical, PDMS or fSiloxane,
X4 is a remainder of the formula
or
a is a number from 1 to 100,
where
R1 is an alkyl radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms,
R2 is a monovalent, saturated, or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical which is optionally substituted by the elements N, P, S, O, Si, and halogen and has 1 to 200 carbon atoms per radical,
PDMS stands
for,
fSiloxan stands
for,
R3 independent of one another is in each case a monovalent saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 200 carbon atoms per radical and optionally substituted by the elements N, P, S, O, Si, and halogen,
A is a radical of the formula R6-[NR7-R8-]fNR72,
where
R6 is a divalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical comprising 3 to 18 carbon atoms,
R7 is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms or an acyl radical,
R8 is a divalent hydrocarbon radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
b is a number from 1 to 2000,
c is 0 or a number from 1 to 2000,
d is a number from 1 to 1000,
e is 0 or a number from 1 to 5,
f is 0, 1, 2, 3 or 4,
Z is hydrogen, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms
or,
R4 is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical optionally comprising N and/or O atoms and having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and
R5 is a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally comprising N and/or O atoms and having 3 to 12 carbon atoms,
with the proviso that the polyorganosiloxane of the formula (I) has at least one terminal OH group, as hydroxy terminated polyorganosiloxane.
Examples of an alkyl radical R1 are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, iso-pentyl, neo-pentyl, tert-. pentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, iso-octyl or 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl-, with methyl-, ethyl- and butyl- being preferred.
Examples of hydrocarbon radicals R2 and R3 include alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, iso-pentyl, neo-pentyl, tert-. Pentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, iso-octyl, 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl, n-octadecyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, methyl cyclohexyl, vinyl, 5-hexenyl, cyclohexenyl, 1-propenyl, allyl, 3-butenyl, 4-pentenyl, phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, phenanthryl, o-tolyl, m-tolyl, p-tolyl, xylyl, ethylphenyl, benzyl, alpha-phenylethyl and beta-phenylethyl. Preferred radicals R2 are the methyl, ethyl, octyl and phenyl radicals, and particularly preferred are the methyl and ethyl radicals.
Examples of halogenated radicals R2 and R3 include the 3,3,3-trifluoro-n-propyl, 2,2,2,2′,2′,2′-hexafluoroisopropyl, heptafluoroisopropyl, o-chlorophenyl, m-chlorophenyl and p-chlorophenyl radicals.
Examples of R4 include the alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, alkaryl and aralkyl radicals listed for hydrocarbon radicals R2 and R3.
Preferred examples of R5 are radicals of the formulae —CH2-CH2-O—CH2-CH2-, —CH2-CH2-NH—CH2-CH2- or —CH2-CH2-NH—CH2-, the radical —CH2-CH2-O—CH2-CH2-being particularly preferred.
Examples of R6 are alkylene radical with 3 to 10 carbon atoms such as propylene, butylene, pentylene, hexylene, heptylene, octylene, nonylene and decylene.
R7 may be hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, iso-pentyl, neo-pentyl, tert-. pentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, iso-octyl, 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl or acetyl, with a hydrogen atom being preferred.
Preferred examples of R8 include alkylene radicals such as methylene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, pentylene, or hexylene.
Z is preferably hydrogen or methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, iso-pentyl, neo-pentyl, tert-. pentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, iso-octyl or 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl-, with hydrogen, methyl-, ethyl- and butyl- being particularly preferred.
Preferred radicals X4 are, according to the above definitions for R4 and R5, aminomethyl-, methylaminomethyl-, dimethylaminomethyl-, diethylaminomethyl-, dibutylaminomethyl-, cyclohexylaminomethyl-, morpholinomethyl-, piperidinomethyl-, piperazinomethyl-, ((diethoxymethylsilyl)methyl)cyclohexylaminomethyl-, ((triethoxysilyl)methyl)cyclohexylaminomethyl-, anilinomethyl-, 3-dimethylaminopropyl-aminomethyl-, bis(3-dimethylaminopropyl)aminomethyl- and mixtures thereof. In this context, it is highly preferred if the cosmetic agent comprises polyorganosiloxanes of the formula (I) which contain the morpholinomethyl radical as radical X4.
According to the definitions for R6, R7 and R8 are preferred examples of residue A:
For the preparation of the polyorganosiloxanes of the formula (I), preferably commercially available polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal silanol groups and/or polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal alkoxy and silanol groups and/or amine-functionalized siloxanes comprising silanol groups or alkoxy and silanol groups are reacted with a dialkoxy and/or trialkoxysilane comprising a radical of the formula
has been implemented.
Accordingly, in formula (I), “fSiloxane” represents a radical derived from an amine-functionalized siloxane.
Trialkoxysilanes or a mixture of dialkoxy- and trialkoxysilanes, are particularly preferred, with the use of trialkoxysilanes alone being especially preferred. When trialkoxysilanes or a mixture of dialkoxy- and trialkoxysilanes are used, at least partially crosslinked polyorganosiloxanes are obtained, regardless of the structure of the siloxanes used and the position of the alkoxy and/or silanol groups in the siloxanes. In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent comprises crosslinked polyorganosiloxanes. In a highly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises crosslinked polyorganosiloxanes derived from the reaction of siloxanes and trialkoxysilanes.
Preferred examples of the dialkoxy or trialkoxysilanes used include:
Morpholinomethyltrialkoxysilane, wherein the alkoxy radical is a C1-C4 alkoxy radical, a mixture of methoxy and ethoxy radicals,
Partial hydrolysates thereof.
A particularly preferred silane is morpholinomethyltriethoxysilane.
A particularly preferred amine-functionalized siloxane is a copolymer of 3-(2-aminoethylamino)propylmethylsiloxy and dimethylsiloxy units, which has silanol groups or alkoxy and silanol groups.
A cosmetic composition is particularly preferred in which at least one compound known under the INCI name amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer is used as the hydroxy terminated polyorganosiloxane. This polyorganosiloxane is commercially available under the name Belsil® ADM 8301 E (ex Wacker). The raw material is a microemulsion and has the following components: Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer, Trideceth-5, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol and Water.
In the context of a further explicitly quite particularly preferred embodiment, the method is wherein the agent (c) comprises a compound known under the INCI designation amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer as hydroxy terminated polyorganosiloxane (c1).
Composition (c) comprises the hydroxy terminated polyorganosiloxane (c1) in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.125 to 6% by weight, still more preferably from 0.15 to 4% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the weight of cosmetic composition (c).
As a second ingredient (c2), the agent (c) comprises the reaction product of a hydroxy terminated polyorganosiloxane with an acid and/or an alcohol and/or a wax.
The acid, alcohol or wax react with the terminal hydroxyl group(s) polyorganosiloxane to form, for example, ester or ether.
Within the scope of a further explicitly quite particularly preferred embodiment, the method is wherein the agent (c) comprises, as reaction product of a hydroxy-terminated polyorganosiloxane with an acid and/or an alcohol and/or a wax (c2), a reaction product of a hydroxy-terminated polyorganosiloxane with an acid, which is comprising selected from the group of reaction products of a hydroxy-terminated polyorganosiloxane with a fatty acid, reaction products of a hydroxy-terminated polyorganosiloxane with an amino acid, reaction products of a hydroxy-terminated polyorganosiloxane with an a-hydroxy acid, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, agent (c) comprises as ingredient (c2) the reaction product of a hydroxy terminated polyorganosiloxane with a fatty acid.
Accordingly, in the context of a further explicitly quite particularly preferred embodiment, the process is wherein the agent (c) comprises, as reaction product of a hydroxy-terminated polyorganosiloxane with an acid and/or an alcohol and/or a wax (c2), a reaction product of a hydroxy-terminated polyorganosiloxane with a fatty acid.
In the context of the present disclosure present disclosure, fatty acids are aliphatic carboxylic acids comprising unbranched or branched, optionally hydroxylated, hydrocarbon radicals having 4 to 40, preferably 8 to 24, carbon atoms. The fatty acids used in the present disclosure present disclosure can be both naturally occurring and synthetically produced fatty acids. Furthermore, the fatty acids can be mono- or polyunsaturated. The fatty acid may also comprise a mixture of several fatty acids.
Particularly preferred fatty acids are comprising selected from the group of behenic acid, fatty acids derived from the seed oil of borage (Borago officinalis L.), fatty acids derived from Vateria indica, 12-hydroxystearic acid, isostearic acid, fatty acids derived from meadowfoam seed oil, fatty acids of mohwa butter, fatty acids derived from salbutter, fatty acids derived from coconut butter, fatty acids derived from illipe butter, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
Reaction products of a hydroxy-terminated polyorganosiloxane with a fatty acid include, for example, the reaction product of dimethiconol with behenic acid (INCI: dimethiconol behenate), the reaction product of dimethiconol with fatty acids obtained from the seed oil of borage (Borago officinalis L.) (INCI: dimethiconol borageate), the reaction product of dimethiconol with fatty acids obtained from Vateria Indica (INCI: dimethiconol dhupa butterate), the reaction product of dimethiconol with 12-hydroxystearic acid (INCI dimethiconol hydroxystearate), the reaction product of dimethiconol with isostearic acid (INCI dimethiconol isostearate), the reaction product of dimethiconol with fatty acids obtained from the seed oil of American meadowfoam (“meadowfoam seed oil”) (INCI: dimethiconol meadowfoamate), the reaction product of dimethiconol with fatty acids derived from mohwa butter (INCI: dimethiconol mohwa butterate), the reaction product of dimethiconol with fatty acids derived from sal butter (INCI: dimethiconol sal butterate), the reaction product of dimethiconol with fatty acids derived from coconut butter (INCI: dimethiconol kokum butterate), the reaction product of dimethiconol with fatty acids obtained from illipe butter (INCI: dimethiconol illipe butterate) and/or the reaction product of dimethiconol with stearic acid (INCI: dimethiconol stearate).
Most preferably, the fatty acid is comprising selected from the group of fatty acids derived from meadowfoam seed oil, behenic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof. It is particularly preferred that the fatty acid comprises a mixture of fatty acids derived from American meadowfoam seed oil (“meadowfoam seed oil”). It is highly preferred that the fatty acid is a mixture of fatty acids derived from American meadowfoam seed oil (“meadowfoam seed oil”).
In the context of a further explicitly quite particularly preferred embodiment, the method is wherein the agent (c) comprises:
(c1) at least one compound known under the INCI name amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer.
(c2) the reaction product of dimethiconol with fatty acids obtained from the seed oil of American meadowfoam seed oil (INCI: dimethiconol meadowfoamate).
Likewise, quite particularly preferred embodiment of the method is wherein the agent (c) comprises:
(c1) at least one compound known under the INCI name amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer.
(c2) the reaction product of dimethiconol with stearic acid (INCI: dimethiconol stearate).
Another likewise explicitly quite particularly preferred embodiment of the method is wherein the agent (c) comprises:
(c1) at least one compound known under the INCI name amodimethicone/morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer.
(c2) the reaction product of dimethiconol with behenic acid (INCI: dimethiconol behenate).
In a further preferred embodiment, the method is wherein the agent (c)—based on the total weight of the agent (c)—is the reaction product of a hydroxy-terminated polyorganosiloxane with an acid and/or an alcohol and/or a wax (c2) in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 6% by weight, even more preferably 0.4 to 4% by weight.-% and particularly preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight.
The agents (a) and (b) used in the process described above may further contain one or more additional optional ingredients.
The previously described agents (a), (b) and (c) may further include one or more optional ingredients.
The products may also contain one or more surfactants. The term surfactants refer to surface-active substances. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants comprising a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants, which in addition to a hydrophobic residue have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and non-ionic surfactants, which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution.
Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one —COO(−)—or —SO3(−) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-glycinate, for example the cocoalkyl-dimethylammoniumglycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example, cocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines each having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.
Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C8-C24 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH or —SO3H group and can form internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, amino propionates, aminoglycinate, imidazoliniumbetaines and sulfobetaines.
Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocosalkylaminopropionate, cocosacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12-C18-acylsarcosine.
The products may also additionally contain at least one non-ionic surfactant. Suitable non-ionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides as well as alkylene oxide addition products to fatty alcohols and fatty acids with 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide per mol fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with good properties are also obtained if they contain as non-ionic surfactants fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol reacted with at least 2 mol ethylene oxide.
It may be particularly preferred that agent (c) further comprises an alkoxylated fatty alcohol.
For example, the fatty alcohol may be selected from C9-C11 fatty alcohols, C12-C13 fatty alcohols, C12-C15 fatty alcohols, C12-C16 fatty alcohols, C14-C15 fatty alcohols, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, (hydrogenated) tallow alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol and tridecyl alcohol.
In particular, the alkoxy group may comprise ethoxy and/or propoxy and/or butoxy groups. Particularly preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is an ethoxylated fatty alcohol.
The at least one alkoxy group of the “alkoxylated fatty alcohol” may, for example, be derived from an alkoxylation reaction with alkylene oxide, in particular ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide.
It is preferred that the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is comprising selected from the group of Ceteareth-2, Ceteareth-3, Ceteareth-4, Ceteareth-5, Ceteareth-6, Ceteareth-7, Ceteareth-8, Ceteareth-9, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-11, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-13, Ceteareth-14, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-16, Ceteareth-17, Ceteareth-18, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-22, Ceteareth-23, Ceteareth-24, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-27, Ceteareth-28, Ceteareth-29, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-33, Ceteareth-34, Ceteareth-40, Ceteareth-50, Ceteareth-55, Ceteareth-60, Ceteareth-80, Ceteareth-100, Laureth-1, Laureth-2, Iaureth-3, Laureth-4, Laureth-5, Laureth-6, Laureth-7, Laureth-8, Laureth-9, Laureth-10, Laureth-11, Laureth-12, Laureth-13, Laureth-14, Laureth-15, Laureth-16, Laureth-20, Laureth-23, Laureth-25, Laureth-30, Laureth-40, Deceth-3, Deceth-5, Oleth-5, Oleth-30, Steareth-2, Steareth-4, Steareth-6, Steareth-7, Steareth-10, Steareth-11, Steareth-13, Steareth-14, Steareth-15, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Steareth-25, Steareth-27, Steareth-30, Steareth-40, Steareth-50, Steareth-100, and mixtures thereof.
The designation ceteareth-2, for example, stands for a CI6-C 18 fatty alcohol with an average of 2 ethylene oxide units per molecule.
In a very particularly preferred embodiment of agent (c), the alkoxylated fatty alcohol comprises ceteareth-20.
The amount of the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.25 to 3% by weight, in each case based on the total amount of agent (c).
In addition, the products may also contain at least one cationic surfactant. Cationic surfactants are surfactants, i.e., surface-active compounds, each with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain only positive charges. Usually, these surfactants are composed of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group, the hydrophobic part usually comprising a hydrocarbon backbone (e.g., comprising one or two linear or branched alkyl chains) and the positive charge(s) being in the hydrophilic head group. Examples of cationic surfactants are
Furthermore, the cationic charge can also be part of a heterocyclic ring (e.g., an imidazolium ring or a pyridinium ring) in the form of an onium structure. In addition to the functional unit carrying the cationic charge, the cationic surfactant may also contain other uncharged functional groups, as is the case for example with esterquats. The cationic surfactants are used in a total quantity of 0.1 to 45 wt. %, preferably 1 to 30 wt. % and most preferably 1 to 15 wt. %—based on the total weight of the respective agent.
It may be particularly preferred that the agent (c) is free from cationic surfactants since these can have a destabilizing effect. “Free of” means that the agent (c) comprises a maximum of 0.2% by weight and preferably 0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the agent (c), of cationic surfactants.
Furthermore, the agents may also contain at least one anionic surfactant. Anionic surfactants are surface-active agents with exclusively anionic charges (neutralized by a corresponding counter cation). Examples of anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates and ether carboxylic acids with 12 to 20 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
The anionic surfactants are used in a total quantity of 0.1 to 45 wt. %, preferably 1 to 30 wt. % and most preferably 1 to 15 wt. %—based on the total weight of the respective agent.
It is preferred that the agent (c) has a pH in the range of 2.5 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 to 5.5, particularly preferably 2.5 to 4.5 and especially preferably 2.5 to 3.5. Acidifiers familiar to the skilled person are, for example, organic acids, such as citric acid, acetic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, and dilute mineral acids, such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, or phosphoric acid. Lactic acid is particularly preferred for adjusting the pH of the agent (c). The agent (c) comprises the organic acid, in particular lactic acid, preferably in an amount of from 0.1 to 5% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.25 to 3% by weight, in each case based on the weight of compound (c).
Without wishing to be bound by this theory, it is believed that the use of an agent (c) with an acidic to slightly acidic pH value results in a change in the ionic charge in the film formed on the keratinic materials. This change leads to stabilization and hydrophobization of the films formed.
In the context of a further particularly preferred embodiment, the process is wherein the agent (c) has a pH value of 2.5 to 3.5.
The agents may also contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as solvents; fatty ingredients such as C8-C30 fatty acid triglycerides, C8-C30 fatty acid monoglycerides, C8-C30 fatty acid diglycerides and/or the hydrocarbons; structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and kephalins; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for coloring the product; anti-dandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; protein hydrolysates on an animal and/or vegetable basis, as well as in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or optionally anionically or cationically modified derivatives; vegetable oils; light stabilizers and UV blockers; active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinonecarboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol; Polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; Fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and kerosenes; swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifiers such as latex, styrene/PVP and styrene/acrylamide copolymers; pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate as well as PEG-3-distearate; and blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N20, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air.
Very preferably, the agent (c) additionally comprises at least one fatty alcohol.
For example, the fatty alcohol may be selected from C9-C11 fatty alcohols, C12-C13 fatty alcohols, C12-C15 fatty alcohols, C12-C16 fatty alcohols, C14-C15 fatty alcohols, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, (hydrogenated) tallow alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol and/or tridecyl alcohol.
In a particularly preferred embodiment of agent (c), the fatty alcohol comprises cetearyl alcohol.
The amount of the fatty alcohol is preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 1 to 9% by weight and particularly preferably 2 to 8% by weight, in each case based on the total amount of agent (c).
The selection of these other substances will be made by the specialist according to the desired properties of the agents. Regarding other optional components and the quantities of these components used, explicit reference is made to the relevant manuals known to the specialist. The additional active ingredients and auxiliary substances are preferably used in the preparations present disclosure as contemplated herein in quantities of 0.0001 to 25 wt. % each, 0.0005 to 15 wt. %, based on the total weight of the respective agent.
Process for Dyeing Keratinous Materials
In the process present disclosure as contemplated herein, agents (a), (b) and (c) are applied to the keratinous materials, to human hair. Thus, the agent (a), (b), and (c) are the ready-to-use means. The agent (a), (b) and (c) are different from each other.
The agent (a), (b) and (c) can in principle be applied simultaneously or successively, with successive application being preferred.
The best results were obtained when agent (a) was first applied to the keratinous materials in a first step, agent (b) was applied in a second step, and then agent (c) was applied in a subsequent step.
Quite particularly preferred, therefore, is a process for treating keratinous material, for coloring keratinous material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps in the order indicated:
in a first step, applying an agent (a) to the keratinous material, the agent comprising (a):
(a1) at least one organic silicon compound comprising selected from the group of silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, and
(a2) at least one colorant compound comprising selected from the group of pigments and/or direct dyes,
In a second step, applying an agent (b) to the keratinous material, the agent comprising (b):
(b1) at least one film-forming polymer and
Moreover, to impart a high leaching resistance to the dyed keratinous material over a longer period, agents (a), (b) and (c) are particularly preferably applied within one and the same dyeing process, which means that there is a period of a maximum of several hours between the application of agents (a) and (c).
In a further preferred embodiment, the method is wherein agent (a) is applied first, agent (b) is then applied, and agent (c) is then applied, the time between the application of agents (a) and (c) being a maximum of 24 hours, preferably a maximum of 12 hours, and particularly preferably a maximum of 6 hours.
A distinguishing feature of the agent (a) is its content of at least one reactive organic silicon compound (a1). The reactive organic silicon compound(s) (a1) undergoes an oligomerization or polymerization reaction and thus functionalizes the hair surface as soon as it meets it. In this way, a first, film is formed. The coloring compounds (a2) are incorporated into the film so that it is colored. In the second step of the process, a second, polymer-comprising agent (b) is now applied to the hair. During the application of agent (b), the film-forming polymers interact with the silane film and are thus bound to the keratinous materials. By using the aftertreatment agent (c), the properties of the dyeing can be significantly improved, particularly regarding fastness properties and especially wash fastness.
In the context of a further form of execution, a procedure comprising the following steps in the order indicated is particularly preferred
(1) Application of the agent (a) on the keratinous material,
(2) Allow the agent (a) to act for a period of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 10 seconds to 5 minutes,
(3) if necessary, rinse the keratinous material with water,
(4) Application of agent (b) on the keratinous material,
(5) Allowing the agent (b) to act for a period of 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes,
(6) Rinse the keratinous material with water,
(6) Application of the agent (c) on the keratinous material,
(7) allowing the agent (c) to act for a period of from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 50 minutes; and
(8) Rinse the keratinous material with water.
By rinsing the keratinous material with water in steps (3), (6) and (9) of the process, it is understood present disclosure as contemplated herein that only water is used for the rinsing process, without the use of other agents different from agents (a), (b) and (c).
In step (1), agent (a) is first applied to the keratinous materials, in particular human hair.
After application, the agent (a) is left to act on the keratinous materials. In this context, application times from 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 20 seconds to 5 minutes and especially preferably from 30 seconds to 2 minutes on the hair have proven to be particularly beneficial.
In a preferred embodiment of the process present disclosure as contemplated herein, the agent (a) can now be rinsed from the keratinic materials before the agent (b) is applied to the hair in the subsequent step.
Stains with equally good wash fastnesses were obtained when agent (b) was applied to the keratinous materials that were still exposed to agent (a).
In step (4), agent (b) is now applied to the keratinous materials. After application, let the agent (b) act on the hair.
Even with a short contact time of the agent (b), the process allows the production of dyeing's with particularly good intensity and wash fastness. Application times from 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 20 seconds to 5 minutes and most preferably from 30 seconds to 3 minutes on the hair have proven to be particularly beneficial.
In step (6), the agent (b) (and any agent (a) still present) is now rinsed out of the keratinous material with water.
Subsequently, the agent (c) is applied to the keratinous materials in a post-treatment step. Agent (c) is also left to act on the keratinous materials and then rinsed out again with water.
The positive effects achieved by agent (c) are particularly long-lasting if agent (c) is applied repeatedly—for example during regular hair washing.
In the context of a further form of execution, a procedure comprising the following steps in the order indicated is particularly preferred
(1) Application of the agent (a) on the keratinous material,
(2) Allow the agent (a) to act for a period of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 10 seconds to 5 minutes,
(3) if necessary, rinse the keratinous material with water,
(4) Application of agent (b) on the keratinous material,
(5) Allowing the agent (b) to act for a period of 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes,
(6) Rinse the keratinous material with water,
(7) Application of the agent (c) on the keratinous material,
(8) allowing the agent (c) to act for a period of from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 50 minutes; and
(9) Rinse the keratinous material with water, wherein the sequence of steps (7), (8) and (9) is performed at least twice.
In this embodiment, the sequence of steps (1) to (6) preferably takes place within 24 hours.
In the context of a further form of execution, a procedure comprising the following steps in the order indicated is particularly preferred
(1) Application of the agent (a) on the keratinous material,
(2) Allow the agent (a) to act for a period of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 10 seconds to 5 minutes,
(3) if necessary, rinse the keratinous material with water,
(4) Application of agent (b) on the keratinous material,
(5) Allowing the agent (b) to act for a period of 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes,
(6) Rinse the keratinous material with water,
(7) Application of the agent (c) on the keratinous material,
(8) allowing the agent (c) to act for a period of from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 50 minutes; and
(9) Rinse the keratinous material with water,
(10) Application of the agent (c) on the keratinous material,
(11) allowing the agent (c) to act for a period of from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 50 minutes; and
(12) Rinse the keratinous material with water.
In this embodiment, the sequence of steps (1) to (9) takes place within a few hours. There may be a period of a few days between carrying out steps (9) and (10) to (12).
Agent (a) comprises, with the organic silicon compound(s), a class of highly reactive compounds that can undergo hydrolysis or oligomerization and/or polymerization when used. As a result of their high reactivity, these organic silicon compounds form a film on the keratinous material.
To avoid premature oligomerization or polymerization, it is of considerable advantage to the user to prepare the ready-to-use agent (a) only shortly before application.
In yet another embodiment, preferred is a method comprising the following steps in the order indicated.
(1) Preparation of an agent (a) by mixing a first agent (a′) and a second agent (a″), wherein
To be able to provide a formulation that is as stable as possible in storage, the agent (a′) itself is preferably formulated to be low in water or water-free.
In a preferred embodiment, a multicomponent packaging unit (kit-of-parts) is wherein the agent (a′)—based on the total weight of the agent (a′)—comprises a water content of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 9% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.5 to 7% by weight.
The agent (a″) comprises water. In a preferred embodiment, a multicomponent packaging unit (kit-of-parts) is wherein the agent (a″)—based on the total weight of the agent (a2)—has a water content of from 15 to 100% by weight, preferably from 35 to 100% by weight, more preferably from 55 to 100% by weight, still more preferably from 65 to 100% by weight and very particularly preferably from 75 to 100% by weight.
Within this embodiment, the ready-to-use agent (a) is now prepared by mixing agents (a′) and (a″).
For example, the user may first stir or shake the agent (a′) comprising the organic silicon compound(s) (a1) with the aqueous colorant-comprising agent (a″). The user can now apply this mixture of (a′) and (a″) to the keratinous materials—either immediately after its preparation or after a short reaction time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes. Afterwards, the user can apply agent (b) as described above.
The optionally included silicone polymer (a3) may be included in the agent (a′) or in the agent (a″). Preferably, the silicone polymer (a3) is included in the agent (a″).
In yet another embodiment, preferred is a method comprising the following steps in the order indicated.
(1) Preparation of an agent (a) by mixing a first agent (a′) and a second agent (a″), wherein
In the context of a further embodiment, particularly preferred is a method comprising the following steps in the order indicated.
(1) Preparation of an agent (a) by mixing a first agent (a′) and a second agent (a″), wherein
In a further preferred embodiment, a process may also be wherein the silicone polymer(s) (a3) are provided in a third separately prepared means (a′″).
Preferred in the context of this further embodiment is a method comprising the following steps in the order indicated.
(1) Preparation of an agent (a) by mixing a first agent (a′) and a second agent (a″) and a third agent (a″), wherein
the first agent (a′) comprises at least one organic silicon compound (a1) from the group of silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, and
the second agent (a″) comprises at least one colorant compound (a2) comprising selected from the group of pigments and/or direct dyes, and
the third agent (a″) comprises at least one silicone polymer (a3),
(2) Application of the agent (a) on the keratinous material,
(3) Allow the agent (a) to act for a period of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 10 seconds to 5 minutes,
(4) if necessary, rinse the keratinous material with water,
(5) Application of agent (b) on the keratinous material,
(6) Allowing the agent (b) to act for a period of 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes,
(7) if necessary, rinse the keratinous material with water,
(8) Application of the agent (c) on the keratinous material,
(9) Allow the agent (c) to act for a period of 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 50 minutes,
(10) Rinse the keratinous material with water,
(11) Application of the agent (c) on the keratinous material,
(12) allowing the agent (c) to act for a period of from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 50 minutes; and
(13) Rinse the keratinous material with water.
To increase user comfort, the user is preferably provided with all required resources in the form of a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts).
A second subject matter of the present disclosure present disclosure is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for coloring keratinic material, comprehensively packaged separately from one another
The organic silicon compounds (a1) from the group of silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms included in agent (a) of the kit correspond to the organic silicon compounds that were also used in agent (a) of the previously described process.
The colorant compound (a2) from the group of pigments and/or direct dyes included in the agent (a″) of the kit corresponds to the colorant compounds also used in agent (a) of the previously described process.
The film-forming polymers (b1) included in agent (b) of the kit correspond to the film-forming polymers that were also used in agent (b) of the previously described process.
In this context, it is again possible to use the optionally included silicone polymer (a3)
To be made up in the means (a′), in the means (a″) or in a further means (a″).
The hydroxy-terminated polyorganosiloxanes (c1)and reaction products of a hydroxy-terminated polyorganosiloxane with an acid and/or an alcohol and/or a wax (c2) included in agent (c) of the kit, which were also used in agent (c) of the method described above.
In the context of a further embodiment, a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for coloring keratinic material is preferably packaged separately from one another
In the context of a further embodiment, a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for coloring keratinic material is preferably packaged separately from one another
In this embodiment, agents (a′) and (a″) have a low water content. To prepare the ready-to-use agent (a), agents (a′), (a″) and (a′″) are mixed. In this case, the agent (a″) represents a water-comprising cosmetic carrier.
In the context of a further embodiment, a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for coloring keratinic material is preferably packaged separately from one another
In the context of a further embodiment, a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for coloring keratinic material is preferably packaged separately from one another
Concerning the further preferred embodiments of the multicomponent packaging unit, mutatis mutantis what has been said about the process applies.
The following formulations have been produced (unless otherwise indicated, all figures are in % by weight)
Agent (a′)
Agent (a″)
The ready-to-use agent (a) was prepared by mixing 5 g of agent (a′) and 20 g of agent (a″). The pH value of the agent (a) was adjusted to a value of 10.5 by adding ammonia or lactic acid. Then the agent (a) was allowed to stand for about 5 minutes.
The agent (a) was massaged into one strand of hair at a time (Kerling, Euronatural hair white), and left to act for 1 minute. The agent (a) was then rinsed with water.
Subsequently, agent (b) was applied to the hair strand, left to act for 1 minute and then also rinsed with water.
Then, the hair strand was wetted with a small amount of agent (c) each time. The agent (c) was left to act for 1 minute. Then washed out with water and dried the strand of hair.
On the hair strand was obtained intense blue coloration with good fastness to washing and particularly good fastness to rubbing.
The following formulations have been produced (unless otherwise indicated, all figures are in % by weight)
Agent (a′)
Agent (a″)
Agent (a″) (Cosmetic Carrier)
The ready-to-use agent (a) was prepared by mixing 5 g of agent (a′) and 5 g of agent (a″) and 20 g of agent (a″). The pH value of the agent (a) was adjusted to a value of 10.5 by adding ammonia or lactic acid. Then the agent (a) was allowed to stand for about 5 minutes.
The agent (a) was massaged into one strand of hair at a time (Kerling, Euronatural hair white), and left to act for 1 minute. The agent (a) was then rinsed with water.
Subsequently, agent (b) was applied to the hair strand, left to act for 1 minute and then also rinsed with water.
After that, the hair strand was wetted with a small amount of the agent (cII) each time. The agent (cII) was allowed to act for 1 minute. Then washed out with water and dried the strand of hair.
An intense red coloration with good wash fastness particularly good rub fastness was obtained.
The following formulations have been produced (unless otherwise indicated, all figures are in % by weight)
Agent (a′)
Agent (a″)
Agent (a′″)
The ready-to-use agent (a) was prepared by mixing 5 g of agent (a′) and 5 g of agent (a″) and 20 g of agent (a″). The pH value of the agent (a) was adjusted to a value of 10.5 by adding ammonia or lactic acid. Then the agent (a) was allowed to stand for about 5 minutes.
The agent (a) was massaged into one strand of hair at a time (Kerling, Euronatural hair white), and left to act for 1 minute. The agent (a) was then rinsed with water.
Subsequently, agent (b) was applied to the hair strand, left to act for 1 minute and then also rinsed with water.
After that, the hair strand was wetted with a small amount of the agent (cIV) in each case. The agent (cIV) was left to act for 1 minute. Then washed out with water and dried the strand of hair.
An intense red coloration with good wash fastness particularly good rub fastness was obtained.
While at least one exemplary embodiment has been presented in the foregoing detailed description, it should be appreciated that a vast number of variations exist. It should also be appreciated that the exemplary embodiment or exemplary embodiments are only examples, and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability, or configuration of the various embodiments in any way. Rather, the foregoing detailed description will provide those skilled in the art with a convenient road map for implementing an exemplary embodiment as contemplated herein. It being understood that various changes may be made in the function and arrangement of elements described in an exemplary embodiment without departing from the scope of the various embodiments as set forth in the appended claims.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 2019 203 299.0 | Mar 2019 | DE | national |
This application is a U.S. National-Stage entry under 35 U.S.C. § 371 based on International Application No. PCT/EP2020/055082, filed Feb. 27, 2020, which was published under PCT Article 21(2) and which claims priority to German Application No. 102019203299.0, filed Mar. 12, 2019, which are all hereby incorporated in their entirety by reference.
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2020/055082 | 2/27/2020 | WO | 00 |
