Patent Grant
12350357
This application is a national stage application (under 35 U.S.C. § 371) of PCT/EP2020/051499, filed Jan. 22, 2020, which claims benefit of PCT Application No. PCT/EP2019/052582, filed Feb. 4, 2019, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entireties.
The present invention primarily relates to the use of a fatty acid ester or of a mixture as defined herein for modifying the physicochemical properties of a skin care product. The present invention further relates to methods for modifying the physicochemical properties of a skin care product as well as to methods for manufacturing a skin care product and to particular skin care products.
Further aspects of the present invention will arise from the description below, in particular from the examples, as well as from the attached patent claims.
Malassezia is a genus of fungi and is naturally found on the skin surfaces of many animals, including humans. As the fungus requires fat to grow, it is most common in areas with many sebaceous glands, i.e. on the scalp, face, and upper part of the body. However, when the fungus grows too rapidly, the natural renewal of cells is disturbed and, for example, dandruff appears on the scalp along with an itching sensation.
It is also well known that substances for care of the skin, particularly the scalp, are used in particular formulations such as, for example, shampoos or gels (e.g. aqueous or aqueous/ethanolic/glycolic based shampoos or gels). Positive physicochemical properties of an active agent, such as e.g. of a topical antifungal agent against dandruff, in these formulations are highly desirable, since they facilitate the manufacture of the formulations and may be experienced in a positive way by the end user. Such positive physicochemical properties of an active agent are e.g. the ability to increase the viscosity or the foam volume or the foam stability of a formulation.
None of the typically used topical antifungal agents, such as e.g. climbazole, zinc pyrithione and piroctone olamine, display any such positive physicochemical properties in skin care formulations.
In DE 42 37 367 A1 fatty acid esters are described as antimycotic agents. These esters are preferably selected from the group of hexyl laurate, isopropyl stearate, glyceryl monolaurate, caprylic acid tryglyceride and capric acid tryglyceride. No physicochemical properties of the active agents are disclosed.
DE 42 34 188 A1 relates to ethoxylated and propoxylated organic compounds as antimycotic agents in cosmetics. No physicochemical properties of the active agents are disclosed.
DE 10 2004 046 603 A1 describes substance mixtures comprising fatty acid esters of polyols and salts of short chain fatty acids to counteract microorganisms. Again, DE 10 2004 046 603 A1 does not disclose any physicochemical properties of the active agents.
SU 1286204 A1 discloses the use of a mixture of mono- (50-60%), di- (30-35%) and triesters (10-15%) of glycerol and undecylenic acid to give antimicrobial properties to a cosmetic base. It also discloses that the mixture combines well with other ingredients of cosmetic products and shampoos.
DE 33 14 786 A1 discloses a mixture with antimycotic activity comprising mono and/or di-10-undecylenic acid glyceryl esters. The mixtures are used in the treatment of nasal cavity mycosis and onychomycosis. It does not disclose any physicochemical properties of the active agents.
In WO 2006/054110 A2, esters of 1,2,3-propanetriol with one or more C11 to C24 fatty acids are described, wherein at least one fatty acid has at least one double bond. The application field for these substances is the treatment of chronic inflammatory disorders.
WO 2007/095262 A2 discloses 1,3-propanediol esters for the purpose of dissolving botanical extracts, fragrance concentrates and oils.
It was thus an object of the present invention to provide skin care agents that impart positive physicochemical properties to a skin care formulation. Moreover, it was an object of the present invention to provide certain skin care formulations, such as e.g. (anti-dandruff) shampoos, with particularly positive physicochemical properties.
According to a first aspect of the present invention, the stated object is achieved by the use of a fatty acid ester or of a mixture of two or more fatty acid esters or of a mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters, wherein the fatty acid ester or one, two or more, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, for modifying the physicochemical properties of a skin care product.
Within the framework of the present text, a modification of the physicochemical properties of a skin care product, preferably for a scalp care product, relates to a modification of one, more or all characteristics selected from the group consisting of viscosity, foam stability and foam volume of a skin care product, preferably for a scalp care product. Preferred and particularly advantageous modifications of the physicochemical properties of a skin care product, preferably for a scalp care product, according to the present invention will be described below.
Caprylate refers to an ester of caprylic acid (CAS Registry Number of caprylic acid: 124-07-2; also known as octanoic acid) and undecylenate refers to an ester of 10-undecylenic acid (CAS Registry Number of 10-undecylenic acid: 112-38-9; also known as 10-undecenoic acid).
3-Hydroxypropyl caprylate refers to the monoester of the alcohol 1,3-propanediol (CAS Registry Number: 504-63-2) with caprylic acid and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate refers to the monoester of the alcohol 1,3-propanediol with 10-undecylenic acid.
A preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to the use of a fatty acid ester or of a mixture of two or more fatty acid esters or of a mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters, wherein the fatty acid ester or one, two or three, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, and glyceryl monoundecylenate, for modifying the physicochemical properties of a skin care product.
A particularly preferred embodiment of the invention relates to the use of a fatty acid ester or of mixture of two or more fatty acid esters or of a mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters, wherein the fatty acid ester or one or two, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, for modifying the physicochemical properties of a skin care product.
A preferred embodiment of the invention relates to the use of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate or of 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate or of glyceryl monoundecylenate or of a mixture comprising 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate or comprising 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate or comprising glyceryl monoundecylenate for modifying the physicochemical properties of a skin care product.
Another preferred embodiment of the invention relates to the use of a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or of glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or of glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monocaprylate, or to the use of a mixture comprising 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monocaprylate for modifying the physicochemical properties of a skin care product.
Another preferred embodiment of the invention relates to the use of a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or to the use of a mixture comprising 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate for modifying the physicochemical properties of a skin care product.
Another preferred embodiment of the invention relates to the use of a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or to the use of a mixture comprising 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate for modifying the physicochemical properties of a skin care product.
Another preferred embodiment relates to the use of a fatty acid ester or mixture as defined herein, wherein the total amount of said fatty acid or mixture comprised in the skin care product as defined herein is from 0.01 to 5 wt.-%, more preferably from 0.05 to 2 wt.-%, most preferably from 0.1 to 1 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of said skin care product.
It was surprisingly found that the fatty acid esters or mixtures as defined herein do not only show excellent antimycotic activity against dandruff-causing Malassezia spp., but also are able to significantly alter the physicochemical properties of skin care products such as e.g. surfactant based formulation (anti-dandruff) shampoos.
Thus, a preferred embodiment of the invention relates to the use as defined herein, wherein the skin care product is a product selected from the group consisting of leave-on skin care product, preferably oil in water emulsion or aqueous formulation or aqueous and/or ethanolic and/or glycolic-based formulation or water in oil emulsion, and rinse-off skin care product, preferably shampoo, more preferably anti-dandruff shampoo, surfactant-based cleansing formulation, preferably micellar water, or shower gel.
Another preferred embodiment relates to the use as defined herein, wherein the skin care product is a soap, preferably a bar soap or syndet soap (solid or liquid appearance).
Preferably, the modified skin care product is a rinse-off skin care product, preferably a shampoo, more preferably an anti-dandruff shampoo, or a shower gel. Also preferred is a soap, preferably a bar soap or syndet soap (solid or liquid appearance).
Another preferred embodiment of the invention relates to the use as defined herein, wherein the modification of the physicochemical properties is an increase of the viscosity or of the foam volume or of the foam stability of the skin care product, preferably of a shampoo.
It is particularly advantageous to increase the viscosity of a skin care product, because it enables the thickening of the formulation even into a gel-like state of the formulation, if desired. A skin care product that does not run off the user's hand during application is preferred by the consumers since it facilitates handling of the product and avoids spillage of the product during handling. The viscosity of a skin care product can be measured as described in the examples further below.
It is also advantageous to increase the foam volume of certain skin care products, particularly of rinse-off skin care products such as e.g. (anti-dandruff) shampoos or shower gels, because a higher foam volume facilitates the cleansing/treatment of the skin and/or hair by the user. The foam volume of a skin care product can be determined as described in the examples further below.
Usually, the viscosity of a skin care product is assured or increased by the addition of certain thickeners and the foam volume and foam stability of a skin care product is assured or increased by the addition of certain foaming agents. However, it was surprisingly found during the studies underlying the present invention that the use of a fatty acid ester or of a mixture as defined herein enables an increase of the viscosity or of the foam volume or of the foam stability of a skin care product. Thus, its use enables a reduction or even complete omission of other thickeners and/or foaming agents in the skin care formulation, which in turn facilitates the formulation process and saves production time and costs.
Another preferred embodiment of the invention relates to the use as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or mixture as defined herein are further used to avoid dandruff and/or to reduce the amount of dandruff on human skin, preferably on human scalp.
Within the framework of the present text, the term “avoiding dandruff on human skin, preferably on human scalp” relates to a preventive measure where the first occurrence or reoccurrence of dandruff on a defined area of human skin, preferably of human scalp, is avoided by applying the fatty acid esters or mixtures as defined herein once or repeatedly to said defined area of human skin. As a result, no dandruff is visible on said defined area of the human skin when inspected by naked human eye.
Within the framework of the present text, the term “reducing the amount of dandruff on human skin, preferably on human scalp” relates to a measure where the total amount of dandruff on a defined area of human skin, preferably of human scalp, as observed by naked human eye is reduced by more than 10, 20, 30, 40 50, 60, 70, 80 or 90% after one-off or repeated treatment of said defined area with the fatty acid esters or mixtures as defined herein.
Another preferred embodiment of the invention relates to the use as defined herein, wherein the skin care product is sulfate-free and/or comprises sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamide MIPA, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, lauroyl/myristoyl methyl glucamide, sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium laureth-5 carboxylate, sodium laureth-6 carboxylate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cocamide MEA, cocoamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, glycol distearate, laureth-4, isostearamide MIPA, lauryl hydroxysultaine, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-4 rapeseedamide, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, trideceth-9, and/or sodium lauroyl sarcosinate. The most commonly used sulfate compounds within the cosmetic industry are sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and ammonium laureth sulfate. They are widely used in combinations with other surfactants to reduce irritation. Especially for color-treated, dry hair & dry scalp there is a tendency to use mild sulfate free formulations. However, very often these formulations tend to poor foaming properties vs sulfate based formulations. Additionally, sulfate based shampoos can easily thickened by sodium chloride, which does not work well with sulfate free surfactants. Increasing the viscosity is therefore a further challenge for sulfate free formulations. Surprisingly, it has been found that the fatty acid esters or mixtures as defined herein even lead to an increase of the viscosity, the foam volume and the foam stability of a sulfate-free skin care product.
Another aspect of the present invention relates to a method for modifying the physicochemical properties of a skin care product comprising or consisting of the following steps:
A preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or one, two or three, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) provided as fatty acid ester or mixture of two or more fatty acid esters or mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters in step (ii) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or one, two or three, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) provided as fatty acid ester or mixture of two or more fatty acid esters or mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters in step (ii) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or one or two, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) provided as fatty acid ester or mixture of two or more fatty acid esters or mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters in step (ii) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester provided in step (ii) is 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate or 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate or glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate or 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate or glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) is a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or of glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or of glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monocaprylate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monocaprylate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) is a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) is a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the total amount of the fatty acid ester or the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters or the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) is from 0.01 to 5 wt.-%, more preferably from 0.05 to 2 wt.-%, most preferably from 0.1 to 1 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the skin care product obtained in step (iii).
Step (i) of the method as described herein may take place before step (ii) or step (i) of the method as described herein may take place after step (ii).
In the method as defined herein, the ingredients of a skin care product (apart from the substances provided in step (ii)) provided in step (i) may be provided separately or (partly) pre-mixed. The same applies to the fatty acid esters provided in step (ii), i.e. the fatty acid esters of the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters or the fatty acid ester(s) and other ingredient(s) of the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters may be provided separately (so that they only form the respective mixture after step (iii)) or (partly) pre-mixed.
The fatty acid ester or mixtures as described herein provided in step (ii) is/are provided in an amount that is sufficient to modify the physicochemical properties (as defined above) of the final skin care product (product of step (iii)).
A preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the skin care product is a product selected from the group consisting of leave-on skin care product, preferably oil in water emulsion or water in oil emulsion, and rinse-off skin care product, preferably shampoo, more preferably anti-dandruff shampoo, or shower gel. Another preferred embodiment relates to the method as defined herein, wherein the skin care product is a soap, preferably a bar soap or syndet soap.
Preferably, the skin care product whose physicochemical properties are modified in a method according to the invention is a rinse-off skin care product, preferably a shampoo, more preferably an anti-dandruff shampoo, or a shower gel. Also preferred is a soap, preferably a bar soap or syndet soap.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the modification of the physicochemical properties of the skin care product is an increase of the viscosity or foam volume or foam stability of the skin care product, preferably of a shampoo.
What has been stated above with regard to the increase of the viscosity or of the foam volume or of the foam stability of the skin care product in terms of the use as defined herein applies mutatis mutandis to the (preferred) embodiment(s) of the method as defined herein.
Another preferred embodiment relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the skin care product is a shampoo and the component(s) in step (ii) is/are provided in an amount that the resulting product is an anti-dandruff shampoo, i.e. displays antimycotic properties.
Another preferred embodiment of the invention relates to the method as defined herein, wherein the skin care product is sulfate-free and/or comprises sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamide MIPA, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, lauroyl/myristoyl methyl glucamide, sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium laureth-5 carboxylate, sodium laureth-6 carboxylate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cocamide MEA, cocoamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, glycol distearate, laureth-4, isostearamide MIPA, lauryl hydroxysultaine, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-4 rapeseedamide, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, trideceth-9, and/or sodium lauroyl sarcosinate.
Another aspect of the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a product selected from the group consisting of leave-on skin care product, preferably oil in water emulsion or water in oil emulsion, and rinse-off skin care product, preferably shampoo, more preferably anti-dandruff shampoo, shower gel, or soaps, preferably bar soaps or syndet soaps, comprising or consisting of the following steps:
A preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or one or two, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) provided as fatty acid ester or mixture of two or more fatty acid esters or mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters in step (ii) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or one, two or three, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) provided as fatty acid ester or mixture of two or more fatty acid esters or mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters in step (ii) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or one or two, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) provided as fatty acid ester or mixture of two or more fatty acid esters or mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters in step (ii) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester provided in step (ii) is 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate or 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate or glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate or 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate or glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) is a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or of glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or of glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monocaprylate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monocaprylate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) is a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) is a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the total amount of the fatty acid ester or the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters or the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters provided in step (ii) is from 0.01 to 5 wt.-%, more preferably from 0.05 to 2 wt.-%, most preferably from 0.1 to 1 wt.-%, relative to the total weight of the skin care product obtained in step (iii).
Preferably, the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a rinse-off skin care product, preferably a shampoo, more preferably an anti-dandruff shampoo, or a shower gel.
Step (i) of the method as described herein may take place before step (ii) or step (i) of the method as described herein may take place after step (ii).
In the method as defined herein, the ingredients of a leave-on or rinse-off skin care product (apart from the substance(s) provided in step (ii)) provided in step (i) may be provided separately or (partly) pre-mixed. The same applies to the fatty acid esters provided in step (ii), i.e. the fatty acid esters of the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters or the fatty acid ester(s) and other ingredient(s) of the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters may be provided separately (so that they only form the respective mixture after step (iii)) or (partly) pre-mixed.
According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid ester or mixtures as described herein provided in step (ii) of the method as described herein is/are provided in an amount that is sufficient to modify the physicochemical properties (as defined above) of the final skin leave-on or rinse-off care product (product of step (iii)).
Another preferred embodiment relates to a method as defined herein, wherein the product is a shampoo and the component(s) in step (ii) is/are provided in an amount that the resulting product is an anti-dandruff shampoo, i.e. displays antimycotic properties.
Another preferred embodiment of the invention relates to the method as defined herein, wherein the skin care product is sulfate-free and/or comprises sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamide MIPA, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, lauroyl/myristoyl methyl glucamide, sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium laureth-5 carboxylate, sodium laureth-6 carboxylate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cocamide MEA, cocoamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, glycol distearate, laureth-4, isostearamide MIPA, lauryl hydroxysultaine, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-4 rapeseedamide, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, trideceth-9, and/or sodium lauroyl sarcosinate.
Another aspect of the present invention relates to a shampoo, preferably an anti-dandruff shampoo, preferably manufactured according to a method as defined herein, comprising or consisting of
According to a preferred embodiment, the shampoo according to the invention comprises said components in the following amounts:
A preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a shampoo as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or one or two, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) of component (iii) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a shampoo as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or one, two or three, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) of component (iii) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a shampoo as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or one or two, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) of component (iii) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a shampoo as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester of component (iii) is 3-hydroxypropyl or 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate or glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a shampoo as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters of component (iii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate or 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate or glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a shampoo as defined herein, wherein the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters of component (iii) is a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or of glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or of glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monocaprylate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a shampoo as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters of component (iii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monocaprylate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a shampoo as defined herein, wherein the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters of component (iii) is a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a shampoo as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters of component (iii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a shampoo as defined herein, wherein the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters of component (iii) is a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a shampoo as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters of component (iii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a shampoo as defined herein, wherein the shampoo is sulfate-free and/or comprises sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamide MIPA, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, lauroyl/myristoyl methyl glucamide, sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium laureth-5 carboxylate, sodium laureth-6 carboxylate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cocamide MEA, cocoamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, glycol distearate, laureth-4, isostearamide MIPA, lauryl hydroxysultaine, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-4 rapeseedamide, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, trideceth-9, and/or sodium lauroyl sarcosinate.
Another aspect of the present invention relates to a hair or body cream, preferably manufactured according to a method as defined herein, comprising or consisting of
According to a preferred embodiment, the hair or body cream according to the invention comprises said components in the following amounts:
A preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a hair or body cream as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or one or two, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) of component (iv) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a hair or body cream as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or one, two or three, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) of component (iv) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a hair or body cream as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or one or two, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) of component (iv) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a hair or body cream as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester of component (iv) is 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate or 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate or glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a hair or body cream as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters of component (iv) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate or 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate or glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a hair or body cream as defined herein, wherein the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters of component (iv) is a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or of glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or of glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monocaprylate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a hair or body cream as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters of component (iv) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monocaprylate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a hair or body cream as defined herein, wherein the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters of component (iv) is a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a hair or body cream as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters of component (iv) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a hair or body cream as defined herein, wherein the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters of component (iv) is a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a hair or body cream as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters of component (iv) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate.
In certain embodiments, a hair or body cream as disclosed herein may be sulfate-free and/or may comprise sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamide MIPA, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, lauroyl/myristoyl methyl glucamide, sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium laureth-5 carboxylate, sodium laureth-6 carboxylate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cocamide MEA, cocoamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, glycol distearate, laureth-4, isostearamide MIPA, lauryl hydroxysultaine, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-4 rapeseedamide, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, trideceth-9 and/or sodium lauroyl sarcosinate.
Preferred bar soaps as disclosed herein are fatty acid soaps. Fatty acid soaps are alkali metal soaps of fatty acids having alkyl chain lengths of about C8-C22, preferably about C12-C18, and especially those of about C12-C14 chain lengths. They are important in producing lather rapidly and of good, highly acceptable quality. Preferred soaps include those made from fatty acids derived from natural sources such as plant or animal-derived glycerides, e.g., coconut oil, tallow, palm kernel oil, babassu oil, soybean oil, castor oil, whale oil, fish oil, grease, lard, palm stearin oil and mixtures thereof. The ph value of these bar soaps is alkaline due to the saponification process.
Typical bar soap ingredients include sodium cocoate, sodium stearate, sodium oleate, sodium palmitate, sodium linoleate, sodium laurate, sodium linoleate, sodium myristate, sodium isethionate, sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, stearic acid, sodium palmitate, lauric acid, aqua, sodium isethionate, sodium stearate, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium palm kernelate, glycerin, parfum, sodium chloride, zinc oxide, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium etidronate, alumina, alpha-isomethyl ionone, benzyl alcohol, butylphenyl methylpropionalsodium isethionate, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium palm kernelate, potassium palm kernelate, sodium palmate, potassium palmate, sodium castorate, sodium carbonate, sodium isostearoyl lactylate, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate sodium palm kernelate, lanolin, lecithin, silica, talc, glycerin, sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium oleate, glycerin, sodium tallowate, stearic acid, palm acid, palm kernel acid, coconut acid, lauric acid, PEG-4, PEG-20 and further additives like dyes, pigments, sequestrants, moisturizers, emollients, plant oils, plant extracts, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, antimicrobials, vitamins, antioxidants, solubilizers, fragrances, starch, clay minerals, abrasives, acids & alkalis, aqua.
Syndet (bar) soaps (Syn=synthetic, det=detergents) are an alternative to traditional bar soaps. The basis surfactants are mostly synthetic. They are very mild to the skin and have a neutral or slightly acidic pH value.
Typical syndet soap ingredients are: sodium lauryl sulfate, alpha olefin sulfonate, glycerol monostearate, cetostearyl alcohol, paraffin wax, cocoamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside, coco-glucoside, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium laureth-5 carboxylate, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, paraffin, cocamidopropyl betaine, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, glyceryl stearate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lanolin, lecithin, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, cetyl palmitate and further additives like dyes, pigments, sequestrants, moisturizers, emollients, plant oils, plant extracts, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, antimicrobials, vitamins, antioxidants, solubilizers, fragrances, starch, clay minerals, acids & alkalis, aqua.
A syndet soap as disclosed herein may also be a so-called combo soap. Combo soaps combine ingredients from syndet soap and traditional saponified soaps.
Another aspect of the present invention relates to a soap, preferably bar soap or syndet soap, preferably manufactured according to a method as defined herein, comprising or consisting of
The phrase “optionally water” refers to a soap as disclosed herein, which in some embodiments contains water and in other embodiments is free, or substantially free, of water.
According to a preferred embodiment, the soap according to the invention comprises said components in the following amounts:
A preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a soap, preferably bar soap or syndet soap, as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or one or two, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) of component (iii) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a soap, preferably bar soap or syndet soap, as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or one, two or three, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) of component (iii) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a soap, preferably bar soap or syndet soap, as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester or one or two, preferably all, of the fatty acid ester(s) of component (iii) is/are selected from the group consisting of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a soap, preferably bar soap or syndet soap, as defined herein, wherein the fatty acid ester of component (iii) is 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate or 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate or glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a soap, preferably bar soap or syndet soap, as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters of component (iii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate or 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate or glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a soap, preferably bar soap or syndet soap, as defined herein, wherein the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters of component (iii) is a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or of glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or of glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monocaprylate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a soap, preferably bar soap or syndet soap, as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters of component (iii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, or 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or glyceryl monocaprylate and glyceryl monoundecylenate, or 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate and glyceryl monocaprylate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a soap, preferably bar soap or syndet soap, as defined herein, wherein the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters of component (iii) is a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a soap, preferably bar soap or syndet soap, as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters of component (iii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a soap, preferably bar soap or syndet soap, as defined herein, wherein the mixture of two or more fatty acid esters of component (iii) is a mixture of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a soap, preferably bar soap or syndet soap, as defined herein, wherein the mixture comprising one or more fatty acid esters of component (iii) comprises 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, glyceryl monocaprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and glyceryl monoundecylenate.
Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a soap, preferably bar soap or syndet soap, as defined herein, wherein the soap is sulfate-free and/or comprises sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, cocamide MIPA, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, lauroyl/myristoyl methyl glucamide, sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium laureth-5 carboxylate, sodium laureth-6 carboxylate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cocamide MEA, cocoamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, glycol distearate, laureth-4, isostearamide MIPA, lauryl hydroxysultaine, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-4 rapeseedamide, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, trideceth-9, and/or sodium lauroyl sarcosinate.
(Preferred) embodiments of the use according to the invention correspond to or can be derived from the (preferred) embodiments of the methods or products according to the invention, which are explained above, or vice versa.
The present disclosure also relates to a skin care product as disclosed herein, wherein the fatty acid ester is glyceryl monocaprylate in place of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate, 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate and/or glyceryl monoundecylenate. Glyceryl monocaprylate refers to a monoester of (mono)glycerol (CAS Registry Number: 56-81-5; also known as 1,2,3-propanetriol) with caprylic acid and glyceryl monoundecylenate refers to a monoester of (mono)glycerol with undecylenic acid.
The invention will now be described in more detail hereinafter with references to the examples.
1.) Viscosity in Hair and Body Wash Formulation
1.1) Formulations with 3-hydroxypropyl Caprylate or 3-hydroxypropyl Undecylenate
Production Method:
Blend phase A by stirring slowly with a vane stirrer, stop the process when foaming starts.
Swell 0.2 wt-% Ucare Polymer JR-400 (INCI: Polyquaternium-10, cf. Table 1.1) in water by stirring and warming up to 50° C. (the dispersion becomes clear and slightly viscous when swelling process is completed). Add phases B, C, D and E to A one after the other by stirring with a vane stirrer (pH value 5.7).
3-Hydroxypropyl caprylate or 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate were incorporated into the shampoo formulations according to Table 1.1 with a concentration of 0.3, 0.5 or 1.0 wt.-%, respectively (trial 2-7). The viscosity η [mPas] of these samples was determined by using a rheometer.
Equipment and Method:
Rheometer HAAKE rheostress1; cone and plate measurement system, CP 60/1°
Method: Flow Curve CR (controlled rate)
T: 23° C.
Shear rate {dot over (y)} (1/s): 5
It could be clearly demonstrated that the addition of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate or 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate leads to an increase of viscosity in shampoo. By increasing the concentration of 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate or 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate, a dose dependent increase of viscosity could be observed versus shampoo without any active ingredient (placebo, trial 1).
1.2) Formulations with Glyceryl Monocaprylate
In a second experiment, the influence of glyceryl monocaprylate on viscosity was tested according to the procedure described in the preceding section 1.1.
Production Method:
Blend phase A by stirring slowly with a vane stirrer, stop the process when foaming starts.
Swell 0.3 wt.-% Ucare Polymer JR-400 (INCI: Polyquaternium-10, cf. Table 1.3) in water by stirring and warming up to 50° C. (the dispersion becomes clear and slightly viscous, when swelling process is completed). Add phases B, C, D and E to A one after the other by stirring with a vane stirrer (pH value 5.8).
The addition of glyceryl monocaprylate leads to an increase of viscosity in shampoo. By increasing the concentration of glyceryl monocaprylate, a dose dependent increase of viscosity could be observed versus shampoo without any active ingredient (placebo).
2.) Foam Volume in Hair & Body Wash Formulation
3-Hydroxypropyl caprylate and 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate were incorporated into the shampoo formulation according to Table 1.1 above with a concentration of 1.0 wt.-% each (trials 4 and 7, Table 1.1).
In a second experiment, glyceryl monocaprylate was incorporated into the shampoo formulation according to Table 1.3 above with a concentration of 1 wt.-% (trial D, Table 1.3).
The foam volume of said formulations was determined by using an Ernst Haage foam volume measurement equipment (cf.
It could be observed that the addition of formulations comprising 3-hydroxypropyl caprylate or 3-hydroxypropyl undecylenate (trials 4 and 7) leads to significantly higher foam volume versus the addition of the same formulation without active (placebo, trial 1). See also
It was observed that the addition of a formulation with 1 wt.-% glyceryl monocaprylate (trial D) leads to significantly higher foam volume versus the addition of the same formulation without active (placebo, trial A). See also
3.) Formulation Examples
The perfume oils PO1, PO2, PO3, PO4, or PO5 from the above examples were worked separately in each case into the formulations presented below.
Cosmetic formulations (compositions)—amounts are indicated as % by weight for all formulations.
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Example 1 vs Comparable Placebo Sample 2
3-Hydroxypropyl caprylate was incorporated with 0.5; 1.0 and 2.0 w/w % into a commercially available bar soap (Soap Base Hirtler*, INCI: Sodium Tallowate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Aqua, Glycerin, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium Etidronate).
Examples A2; A3 and A4 are in accordance with the invention, example A1 is the soap base without active and serves for comparison (cf, Table 60).
Production Method Bar Soap Solutions
200 ml of the corresponding bar soap solutions were prepared by stirring with a vane stirrer (0.2 w/w % bar soap A1, A2, A3 and A4, according to table 1 in water demineralized). The solutions were transferred (each by each) into the foam volume and drainage measuring instrument (Ernst Haage; cf.
Results Foam Volume
The results of foam volume measurements after 40 swings treatment of solutions A1 S, A2S, A3S and A4S are included in Table 62 (double determination).
It could be clearly demonstrated that the increasing concentration of 3-Hydroxypropyl caprylate leads to a higher foam volume.
Results of Drainage Liquid Determination
After evaluating the foam volume, the formation of drainage liquid in the drainage measurement device (cf.
It could be clearly demonstrated that with increasing concentration of 3-Hydroxypropyl caprylate less drainage liquid was formed. Less drainage liquid indicates better foam stability.
Sulfate Free Shampoos
The most commonly used sulfate compounds within the cosmetic industry are sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and ammonium laureth sulfate. They are widely used in combinations with other surfactants to reduce irritation. Especially for color-treated, dry hair & dry scalp there is a tendency to use mild sulfate free formulations.
Very often these formulations tend to poor foaming properties vs sulfate based formulations. Additionally, sulfate based shampoos can easily thickened by sodium chloride, which does not work well with sulfate free surfactants. Increasing the viscosity is therefore a further challenge for sulfate free formulations.
Formulations were prepared by blending all ingredients (cf. Table 64) through warming up to 40° C. The stirring was continued until the blend was clear. The pH value was adjusted to pH 5.5 to 5.8.
The results are summarized in Table 65. As can be gathered from this table, an increased foam volume was obtained with shampoo containing 3-Hydroxypropyl caprylate.
In another round of experiments, the formulations as shown in Table 66 were prepared by blending all ingredients using the same methodology as before.
The results are summarized in Table 67. As can be gathered from this table, an increased foam volume was obtained with shampoo containing 3-Hydroxypropyl caprylate.
In yet another round of experiments, the formulations as shown in Table 68 were prepared by blending all ingredients using the same methodology as before.
The viscosity was determined using the following parameters:
The results of viscosity measurements are summarized in Table 70. It could be clearly demonstrated that a significant increased viscosity was obtained with 3-Hydroxypropyl caprylate vs placebo.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2019/052582 | Feb 2019 | WO | international |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2020/051499 | 1/22/2020 | WO |
| Publishing Document | Publishing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| WO2020/160904 | 8/13/2020 | WO | A |
| Number | Date | Country |
|---|---|---|
| 101641313 | Feb 2010 | CN |
| 2548448 | Jan 2013 | EP |
| H09110648 | Apr 1997 | JP |
| H09110648 | Apr 1997 | JP |
| 2002114669 | Apr 2002 | JP |
| 2002114670 | Apr 2002 | JP |
| 2018123129 | Aug 2018 | JP |
| 2007095262 | Aug 2007 | WO |
| 2011101239 | Aug 2011 | WO |
| WO-2018012021 | Jan 2018 | WO |
| 2019007792 | Jan 2019 | WO |
| Entry |
|---|
| Database GNPD [Online] Mintel; May 22, 2017 (May 22, 2017), anonymous: “Volume+ Shampoo”, retrieved from www.gnpd.com (Year: 2017). |
| “Technical data TRIstat ECO”, , Jul. 30, 2013 (Jul. 30, 2013), pp. 1-13, . Retrieved from the Internet: URL:http://www.innovadex.com/documents/1190990.pdf?bs=612&b=319722&st=20 (Year: 2013). |
| International Search Report and Written Opinion issued on Apr. 22, 2020 for corresponding PCT Application No. PCT/EP2020/051499. |
| Database GNPD; Mintel; “Volume + Shampoo,” 2017; pp. 1-4 XP055630494. |
| “Technical data TRIstat ECO,” 2013; pp. 1-13 XP055122754. |
| Brazilian Office Action issued on Aug. 11, 2024 for corresponding Brazilian Application No. BR 11 2021 015349-7. |
| “Soft-Run Body Exfoliant Scrub for Gel”, GNPD, Mintel, (Jan. 7, 2019), Database accession No. 6187283, URL: www.gnpd.com XP055630497. |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20220105016 A1 | Apr 2022 | US |
