Patent Application
20220000745
The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions for treating a keratinous material, the composition comprising an organic silicon compound and at least one copolymer composed of at least the monomer units N-tert-octylacrylamide, acrylic acid and tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, and to the use of the cosmetic composition.
The external exposure of hair to chemicals from a variety of different sources poses challenges for the development of cosmetic products. Air and water impurities have a detrimental effect on skin and hair. Major air pollutants include polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, volatile organic compounds, nitrogen oxides (NOx), particulate matter, and cigarette smoke. The effect of various air pollutants can be enhanced in the presence of other air pollutants and when exposed to UV radiation or heat.
It is known that the toxicity of gaseous pollutants in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, ozone, and nitrogen oxides, is related to their initiator activity for free radicals, which cause damage to living organisms. Free radicals are metabolic products that also occur naturally in the body. In large quantities, free radicals can promote irritation and inflammation and, accelerate the process of aging. In this case, the term “oxidative damage” is used. Free radicals can also cause hair damage, which is visible, for example, as a reduction in shine as well as grip and/or fading of hair color. Heat exposure naturally increases the damage caused by pollutants.
However, customer wishes do not only concern features that affect the appearance of the hair itself. The requirement profile for cosmetic products for hair is more diverse. Cosmetic agents that serve a permanent or temporary shaping of the hair also play an important role in cosmetics. Thus, cosmetic agents should provide temporary shaping with a good hairstyle hold. The development of cosmetic products that provide good hair hold and enable a protective function against damage from pollutants is a challenge.
In the prior art, organosilicon compounds from the group of silanes comprising at least one hydroxy group and/or hydrolyzable group are described. Due to the presence of the hydroxy groups and/or hydrolyzable groups, the silanes are reactive substances that hydrolyze or oligomerize or polymerize in the presence of water. The oligomerization or polymerization of the silanes initiated by the presence of the water, when applied to a keratinous material, ultimately leads to the formation of a film that can exert a protective effect.
A cosmetic composition for treating a keratinous material comprises an organic silicon compound and at least one solidifying copolymer. The copolymer is composed of at least the monomer units N-tert-octylacrylamide, acrylic acid, and tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate. In various embodiments, the organic silicon compound is selected from those of Formulae (I), (II), and (IV) or combinations thereof.
In the organic silicon compound of formula (I)
R1R2N-L-Si(OR3)a(R4)b (I),
R1, R2 both represent a hydrogen atom,
L represents a linear, divalent C1-C6-alkylene group,
R3, R4 independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group,
a stands for the number 1 to 3 and
In the organic silicon compound of formula (II)
(R5O)c(R6)dSi-(A)e-[NR7-(A′)]f-[O-(A″)]g-[NR8-(A′″)]h-Si(R6′)d′(OR5′)c′ (II),
R5, R5′, R5″, R6, R6′ and R6″ independently represent a C1-C6 alkyl group,
A, A′, A″, A′″ and A″″ independently represent a linear or branched C1-C20 divalent alkylene group,
R7 and R8 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy C1-C6 alkyl group, a C2-C6 alkenyl group, an amino C1-C6 alkyl group or a group of formula (III)
(A″″)-Si(R6″)d″(OR5″)c″ (III),
wherein
c stands for an integer from 1 to 3,
d stands for the integer 3−c,
c′ stands for an integer from 1 to 3,
d′ stands for the integer 3−c′,
c″ stands for an integer from 1 to 3,
d″ stands for the integer 3−c″,
e stands for 0 or 1,
f stands for 0 or 1,
g stands for 0 or 1,
h stands for 0 or 1,
with the proviso that at least one of the residues from e, f, g, and h is different from 0. Non-limiting examples include
In the organic silicon compound of formula (IV),
R9Si(OR10)k(R11)m (IV),
R9 represents a C1-C12 alkyl group,
R10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group,
R11 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group
k is an integer from 1 to 3, and
m stands for the integer 3−k.
Non-limiting examples of compounds of Formula (IV) include methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltrimethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltrimethoxysilane, and octadecyltriethoxysilane.
In various embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises at least two structurally different organic silicon compounds
In various embodiments, the compositions comprise a second polymer composed of a first monomer selected from selected from the group consisting of a methacrylic acid ester, an acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid and acrylic acid, and a second monomer which is a vinylic monomer, such as styrene, vinylpyrrolidone, or vinyl acetate.
The following detailed description is merely exemplary in nature and is not intended to limit the disclosure or the application and uses of the subject matter as described herein. Furthermore, there is no intention to be bound by any theory presented in the preceding background or the following detailed description.
The underlying problem of the present disclosure is to provide a cosmetic product that allows good shaping of hair and improves structural protection against the effects of heat.
This task is solved by a cosmetic agent for the treatment of a keratinous material, comprising
a) at least one organic silicon compound and
b) at least one copolymer which is composed of at least the following monomer units:
By a keratinous material is meant hair, the skin, the nails (such as fingernails and/or toenails). Wool, furs, and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinous material.
Preferably, a keratinous material is understood to mean human hair, human skin, and human nails, in particular fingernails and toenails. Very preferably, keratinous material is understood to mean human hair, in particular head and/or beard hair.
As a first ingredient essential to the invention, the cosmetic composition for treating a keratinous material contains at least one organic silicon compound. Preferred organic silicon compounds are selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, wherein the organic silicon compound comprises one or more hydroxyl groups and/or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
Organic silicon compounds, alternatively called organosilicon compounds, are compounds which either have a direct silicon-carbon bond (Si—C) or in which the carbon is bonded to the silicon atom via an oxygen, nitrogen, or sulfur atom. The organic silicon compounds are compounds containing one to three silicon atoms. Organic silicon compounds preferably contain one or two silicon atoms.
According to IUPAC rules, the term silane stands for a group of chemical compounds based on a silicon skeleton and hydrogen. In organic silanes, the hydrogen atoms are completely or partially replaced by organic groups such as (substituted) alkyl groups and/or alkoxy groups. In organic silanes, some of the hydrogen atoms may also be replaced by hydroxy groups.
The agent for treating a keratinous material contains at least one organic silicon compound preferably selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, wherein the organic silicon compound comprises one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
In a most preferred embodiment, the agent for treating a keratinous material comprises at least one organic silicon compound selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, wherein the organic silicon compound further comprises one or more basic groups and one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
This basic group can be, for example, an amino group, an alkylamino group or a dialkylamino group, which is preferably connected to a silicon atom via a linker. The basic group is preferably an amino group, a C1-C6 alkylamino group or a di(C1-C6)alkylamino group.
The hydrolyzable group(s) is (are) preferably a C1-C6 alkoxy group, especially an ethoxy group or a methoxy group. It is preferred when the hydrolyzable group is directly bonded to the silicon atom. For example, if the hydrolyzable group is an ethoxy group, the organic silicon compound preferably contains a structural unit R′R″R′″Si—O—CH2—CH3. The residues R′, R″ and R′″ represent the three remaining free valences of the silicon atom.
Particularly good results were obtained when the agent for treating a keratinous material contains at least one organic silicon compound of formula (I) and/or (II).
The compounds of formulae (I) and (II) are organic silicon compounds selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound comprising one or more hydroxyl groups and/or hydrolysable groups per molecule.
In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent for treating a keratinous material comprises at least one organic silicon compound of formula (I) and/or (II),
R1R2N-L-Si(OR3)a(R4)b (I),
where
(R5O)c(R6)dSi-(A)e-[NR7-(A′)]f-[O-(A″)]g-[NR8-(A′″)]h-Si(R6′)d′(OR5′)c′ (II),
where
(A″″)-Si(R6″)d″(OR5″)c″ (III),
The substituents R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R5′, R5″, R6, R6′, R6″, R7, R8, L, A′, A″″ and A″″ in the compounds of formula (I) and (II) are explained below as examples:
Examples of a C1-C6 alkyl group are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl, and t-butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl. Propyl, ethyl, and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. Examples of a C2-C6 alkenyl group are vinyl, allyl, but-2-enyl, but-3-enyl and isobutenyl, preferred C2-C6 alkenyl radicals are vinyl and allyl. Preferred examples of a hydroxy C1-C6 alkyl group are a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 2-hydroxypropyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl, a 4-hydroxybutyl group, a 5-hydroxypentyl and a 6-hydroxyhexyl group; a 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred. Examples of an amino C1-C6 alkyl group are the aminomethyl group, the 2-aminoethyl group, the 3-aminopropyl group. The 2-aminoethyl group is particularly preferred. Examples of a linear two-band C1-C20 alkylene group include the methylene group (—CH2), the ethylene group (—CH2—CH2—), the propylene group (—CH2—CH2—CH2—) and the butylene group (—CH2—CH2—CH2—). The propylene group (—CH2—CH2—CH2—) is particularly preferred. From a chain length of 3 C atoms, divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched two-band C3-C20 alkylene groups are (—CH2—CH(CH3)—) and (—CH2—CH(CH3)—CH2—).
In the organic silicon compounds of the formula (I)
R1R2N-L-Si(OR3)a(R4)b (I),
the radicals R1 and R2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group. In particular, the radicals R1 and R2 both represent a hydrogen atom.
In the middle part of the organic silicon compound is the structural unit or the linker -L- which stands for a linear or branched, two-band C1-C20 alkylene group.
Preferably, -L- represents a linear, divalent C1-C20 alkylene group. Further preferably, -L- represents a linear divalent C1-C6 alkylene group. Particularly preferred -L stands for a methylene group (CH2—), an ethylene group (—CH2—CH2—), propylene group (—CH2—CH2—CH2—) or butylene (—CH2—CH2—CH2—CH2—). L stands for a propylene group (—CH2—CH2—CH2—)
The organic silicon compounds of formula (I)
R1R2N-L-Si(OR3)a(R4)b (I),
carry the silicon-containing grouping —Si(OR3)a(R4)b at one end.
In the terminal structural unit —Si(OR3)a(R4)b, R3 is hydrogen or C1-C6 alkyl group, and R4 is C1-C6 alkyl group. R3 and R3 independently of each other represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
Here a stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and b stands for the integer 3−a. If a stands for the number 3, then b is equal to 0. If a stands for the number 2, then b is equal to 1. If a stands for the number 1, then b is equal to 2.
The best protection against the negative effects of water and/or air pollution (“anti-pollution” effect) and the best care of stressed hair could be obtained if the agent for treating a keratinous material contains at least one organic silicon compound of formula (I) in which the radicals R3, R4 independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
Particularly well-suited organic silicon compounds of formula (I) are
The organic silicon compound of formula (I) is commercially available. (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, for example, can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich. (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
In another embodiment, the composition for treating a keratinous material comprises at least one organic silicon compound of formula (II)
(R5O)c(R6)dSi-(A)e-[NR7-(A′)]f-[O-(A″)]g-[NR8-(A′″)]h-Si(R6′)d′(OR5′)c′ (II).
The organosilicon compounds of formula (II) each bear at their two ends the silicon-containing groupings (R5O)c(R6)dSi— and —Si(R6′)d′(OR5′)c′.
In the central part of the molecule of formula (II) there are the groups -(A)c- and —[NR7-(A′)f]- and —[O-(A″)]g- and —[NR8-(A′″)]h-. Here, each of the radicals e, f, g, and h can independently of one another stand for the number 0 or 1, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals e, f, g, and h is different from 0. In other words, an organic silicon compound of formula (II) contains at least one grouping selected from the group consisting of -(A)- and —[NR7-(A′)]- and —[O-(A″)]- and —[NR8-(A′″)]-.
In the two terminal structural units (R5O)c(R6)dSi— and —Si(R6′)d′(OR5′)c, the radicals R5, R5′, R5″ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group. The radicals R6, R6′ and R6″ independently represent a C1-C6 alkyl group.
Here a stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and d stands for the integer 3−c. If c stands for the number 3, then d is equal to 0. If c stands for the number 2, then d is equal to 1. If c stands for the number 1, then d is equal to 2.
Analogously c′ stands for a whole number from 1 to 3, and d′ stands for the whole number 3−c′. If c′ stands for the number 3, then d′ is 0. If c′ stands for the number 2, then d′ is 1. If c′ stands for the number 1, then d′ is 2.
A remarkably high anti-pollution effect of the agent for the treatment of a keratinous material could be obtained when the residues c and c′ both stand for the number 3. In this case d and d′ both stand for the number 0.
In another preferred one, the agent for treating a keratinous material comprises at least one organic silicon compound of formula (II)
(R5O)c(R6)dSi-(A)e-[NR7-(A′)]f-[O-(A″)]g-[NR8-(A′″)]h-Si(R6′)d′(OR5′)c′ (II),
where
When c and c′ both represent the number 3 and d and d′ both represent the number 0, the organic silicon compounds correspond to formula (IIa)
(R5O)3Si-(A)e-[NR7-(A′)]f-[O-(A″)]g—[NR8-(A′″)]h-Si(OR5′)3 (IIa).
The radicals e, f, g, and h can independently stand for the number 0 or 1, whereby at least one radical from e, f, g, and h is different from zero. The abbreviations e, f, g, and h thus define which of the groupings -(A)e- and —[NR7-(A′)]f- and —[O-(A″)]g- and —[NR8-(A′″)]h- are in the middle part of the organic silicon compound of formula (II).
In this context, the presence of certain groupings has proven to be particularly beneficial in terms of increasing the “anti-pollution” effect. Particularly good results were obtained when at least two of the residues e, f, g, and h stand for the number 1. Especially preferred e and f both stand for the number 1. Furthermore, g and h both stand for the number 0.
When e and f are both 1 and g and h are both 0, the organic silicon compounds are represented by the formula (IIb)
(R5O)c(R6)dSi-(A)-[NR7-(A′)]—Si(R6′)d′(OR5′)c′ (IIb).
The radicals A, A′, A″, A′″ and A″″ independently represent a linear or branched two band C1-C20 alkylene group. Preferably the radicals A, A′, A″, A′″ and A″″ independently of one another represent a linear, two band C1-C20 alkylene group. Further preferably the radicals A, A′, A″, A′″ and A″″ independently represent a linear two band C1-C6 alkylene group. In particular, the radicals A, A′, A″, A′″ and A″″ independently of one another represent a methylene group (—CH2—), an ethylene group (—CH2—CH2—), a propylene group (—CH2—CH2—CH2—) or a butylene group (—CH2—CH2—CH2—CH2—). In particular, the residues A, A′, A″, A′″ and A″″ stand for a propylene group (—CH2—CH2—CH2—).
When the radical f represents the number 1, the organic silicon compound of formula (II) contains a structural grouping —[NR7-(A′)]-.
When the radical h represents the number 1, the organic silicon compound of formula (II) contains a structural grouping —[NR8-(A″)]-.
Wherein R7 and R7 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxy-C1-C6 alkyl group, a C2-C6 alkenyl group, an amino-C1-C6 alkyl group or a group of the formula (III)
(A″″)-Si(R6″)d″(OR5″)c″ (III).
Very preferably, R7 and R8 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a group of formula (III).
When the radical f represents the number 1 and the radical h represents the number 0, the organic silicon compound contains the grouping [NR7-(A′)] but not the grouping —[NR8-(A″)]. If the radical R7 now stands for a grouping of the formula (III), the agent for treating a keratinous material contains an organic silicon compound with 3 reactive silane groups.
In another preferred one, the agent for treating a keratinous material comprises at least one organic silicon compound of formula (II)
(R5O)c(R6)dSi-(A)e-[NR7-(A′)]f-[O-(A″)]g-[NR8-(A′″)]h-Si(R6′)d′(OR5′)c′ (II),
where
In another preferred embodiment, the composition for treating a keratinous material comprises at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (II), wherein
Organic silicon compounds of formula (II) that are well suited for solving the problem are
The organic silicon compounds of formula (II) are commercially available.
Bis(trimethoxysilylpropyl)amine with the CAS number 82985-35-1 can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich.
Bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amine, also known as 3-(triethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine, with CAS number 13497-18-2 can be purchased, for example, from Sigma-Aldrich or is commercially available under the product name Dynasylan 1122 from Evonik.
N-methyl-3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine is alternatively referred to as bis(3-trimethoxysilylpropyl)-N-methylamine and can be purchased commercially from Sigma-Aldrich or Fluorochem.
3-(triethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine with the CAS number 18784-74-2 can be purchased for example from Fluorochem or Sigma-Aldrich.
It has also been found to be advantageous when the agent for treating a keratinous material applied to the hair contains at least one organic silicon compound of formula (IV)
R9Si(OR10)k(R11)m (IV).
The compounds of formula (IV) are organic silicon compounds selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound comprising one or more hydroxyl groups and/or hydrolysable groups per molecule.
The organic silicon compound(s) of formula (IV) may also be referred to as silanes of the alkylalkoxysilane or alkylhydroxysilane type,
R9Si(OR10)k(R11)m (IV),
where
In a further preferred embodiment, the composition for treating a keratinous material contains, in addition to the organic silicon compound or compounds of formula (I), at least one further organic silicon compound of formula (IV)
R9Si(OR10)k(R11)m (IV),
where
In a likewise preferred embodiment, the composition for treating a keratinous material contains, in addition to the organic silicon compound or compounds of the formula (II), at least one further organic silicon compound of the formula (IV) contains
R9Si(OR10)k(R11)m (IV),
where
In another preferred embodiment, the composition for treating a keratinous material contains, in addition to the organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) and (II), at least one further organic silicon compound of the formula (IV)
R9Si(OR10)k(R11)m (IV),
where
In the organic silicon compounds of formula (IV), the radical R9 represents a C1-C12 alkyl group. This C1-C12 alkyl group is saturated and can be linear or branched. Preferably R9 stands for a linear C1-C6 alkyl group. Preferably R9 stands for a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an n-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an n-hexyl group, an n-octyl group or an n-dodecyl group. Particularly preferably, R9 represents a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-octyl group.
In the organic silicon compounds of formula (IV), the radical R10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group. Particularly preferably, R10 represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
In the organic silicon compounds of formula (IV), the radical R11 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group. Particularly preferably, Rn represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
Furthermore, k stands for a whole number from 1 to 3, and m stands for the whole number 3−k. If k stands for the number 3, then m is equal to 0. If k stands for the number 2, then m is equal to 1. If k stands for the number 1, then m is equal to 2.
A remarkably high “anti-pollution” effect could be obtained if the agent for treating a keratinous material contains at least one organic silicon compound of formula (IV) in which the radical k represents the number 3. In this case the rest m stands for the number 0.
Organic silicon compounds of the formula (IV) that are particularly suitable for solving the problem are
and propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltrimethoxysilane and/or octadecyltriethoxysilane.
The organic silicon compounds described above are reactive compounds.
It was found that particularly stable and uniform films could be obtained on the keratinous material even when the agent contained two structurally different organic silicon compounds.
In a preferred embodiment, an agent comprises at least one organic silicone compound of formula (I) and at least one organic silicone compound of formula (IV).
In an explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent exemplified contains at least one organic silicone compound of formula (I) selected from the group including (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane and (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane, and additionally containing at least one organic silicone compound of formula (IV) selected from the group including methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane and hexyltriethoxysilane.
In another preferred embodiment, an agent contains, based on the total weight of the agent-:
Even the addition of small amounts of water leads to hydrolysis in organic silicon compounds with at least one hydrolyzable group. The hydrolysis products and/or organic silicon compounds having at least one hydroxy group may react with each other in a condensation reaction. For this reason, both the organosilicon compounds having at least one hydrolyzable group and their hydrolysis and/or condensation products may be present in the composition. When organosilicon compounds having at least one hydroxyl group are used, both the organic silicon compounds having at least one hydroxyl group and their condensation products may be present in the composition.
A condensation product is understood to be a product formed by the reaction of at least two organic silicon compounds each having at least one hydroxyl group or hydrolyzable group per molecule with elimination of water and/or with elimination of an alkanol. The condensation products can be, for example, dimers, but also trimers or oligomers, with the condensation products being in equilibrium with the monomers. Depending on the amount of water used or consumed in the hydrolysis, the equilibrium shifts from monomeric organic silicon compounds to condensation product.
In the context of the present invention, figures in wt.-% are—unless otherwise stated—always based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
As a second ingredient essential to the invention, the cosmetic composition for treating a keratinous material contains a firming copolymer derived from the monomer units N-tert-octylacrylamide, acrylic acid and tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate. In the course of the work leading to the present invention, it has been found that, to achieve a particularly good care effect, it is especially advantageous if the organic silicon compounds, in particular (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, are combined with the strengthening copolymer derived from the monomer units N-tert-octylacrylamide, acrylic acid and tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate.
The combination of the organic silicon compound, the (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, with the strengthening copolymer derived from the monomer units N-tert-octylacrylamide, acrylic acid and tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate forms a layer on the hair. These strengthening copolymers are also called film-forming copolymers or film formers. This ensures that oxidative hair colors are significantly protected from washing out. Furthermore, the hair surface is re-hydrophobized in oxidatively damaged hair, which leads to the reduction of frizz. In addition, the combability of the hair is improved.
Firming copolymers to be included in the cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure are commercially available. Solidifying copolymers of this type are known under the INCI designation “Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer (INCI)” and are marketed by Akzo Nobel under the trademarks “Amphomer®”, “Amphomer® HC”, “Amphomer® 4961”, “Amphomer® EDGE” and “Amphomer® LV 71” in various variations.
According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition for treating a keratinous material comprises c) a second copolymer composed at least of a first monomer, selected from the group consisting of a methacrylic acid ester, an acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid and acrylic acid, and a second monomer which is a vinylic monomer, preferably styrene, vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl acetate, or which is a polyvinylpyrrolidone/polyvinyl acetate copolymer. This second copolymer serves as an additional film former.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the firming copolymer is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 10-% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 8-% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 6-% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
In particular, the agent for treating a keratinous material may comprise an agent for cleaning a keratinous material, an agent for maintaining a keratinous material, an agent for maintaining and cleaning a keratinous material, and/or an agent for temporarily reshaping a keratinous material.
In the following, further ingredients of the hair treatment products are described, which may be contained in the products in addition to the previously described mandatory ingredients.
It may be preferred that the agent for treating a keratinous material further comprises from about 0.001 to about 20% by weight of at least one quaternary compound. This applies to agents for the care of a keratinous material and agents for the care and cleaning of a keratinous material.
It is preferred that the at least one quaternary compound is selected from at least one of the groups consisting of:
It is particularly preferred that the hair treatment composition contain a cationic homopolymer falling under the INCI designation polyquaternium-37 as quaternary compounds.
It may be preferred that the agent for treating a keratinous material further comprises a firming compound, preferably selected from the group consisting of waxes, synthetic polymers, and mixtures thereof.
To meet the different requirements for agents for the treatment of a keratinous material in the form of an agent for the temporary reshaping of a keratinous material (=styling agent), many synthetic polymers have already been developed as strengthening compounds, which can be used in the agent for the treatment of a keratinous material. Alternatively, or additionally, other synthetic polymers and/or waxes are used as strengthening compounds. Ideally, the synthetic polymers and/or waxes, when applied to the keratinous material, result in a polymer film or sheet that, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle a strong hold, but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break when stressed.
The synthetic polymers can be divided into cationic, anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric strengthening polymers.
Suitable synthetic polymers include, for example, polymers with the following INCI designations: Acrylamides/Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamides/DMAPA Acrylates/Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride/Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride/Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/t-Butyl Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/C1-2 Succinates/Hydroxyacrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/Lauryl Acrylate/Stearyl Acrylate/Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates/Octylacrylamide/Diphenyl Amodimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates/Stearyl Acrylate/Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/VA Copolymer, Acrylates/Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/VP Copolymer, Adipic Acid/Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid/Dimethylaminohydroxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid/Epoxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid/Isophthalic Acid/Neopic Acid ntyl Glycol/Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Allyl Stearate/VA Copolymer, Aminoethylacrylate Phosphate/Acrylates Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol-Acrylates/Acrylamide Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol-AMPD-Acrylates/Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium-Acrylates/VA/Acrylates Copolymer, AMPD-Acrylates/Acrylamides Copolymer, AMPD-Acrylates/Acrylamides/Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer, AMP-Acrylates/C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates/C1-8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP-Acrylates/Diacetoneacrylamide Copolymer, AMP-Acrylates/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer, Bacillus/Rice Bran Extract/Soybean Extract Ferment Filtrate, Bis-Butyloxyamodimethicone/PEG-60 Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate/Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate/Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butylated PVP, Butyl Ester of Ethylene/MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, Calcium/Sodium PVM/MA Copolymer, Corn Starch/Acrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Diethylene Glycolamine/Epichlorohydrin/Piperazine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Amodimethicone, Ethyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/PVP Crosspolymer, Isobutylene/Ethylmaleimide/Hydroxyethylmaleimide Copolymer, Isobutylene/MA Copolymer, Isobutylmethacrylate/Bis-hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM/MA Acrylate Crosspolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, MEA-Sulphite, Methacrylic Acid/Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulphonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine/Acrylates Copolymer, Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone, PEG-8/SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylamide, Polyacrylate-6, Polybeta-Alanine/Glutaric Acid Crosspolymer, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polyester-1, Polyethylacrylate, Polyethylene Terephthalate, Polymethacryloyl Ethyl Betaine, Polypentaerythrityl Terephthalate, Polyperfluoroperhydrophen-2, Polyquaternium-2 Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, 18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-56, Polyquaternium-56 9, Polyurethane-1, Polyurethane-6, Polyurethane-10, Polyvinyl Acetate, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinylcaprolactam, Polyvinylformamide, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, PPG-70 polyglyce ryl-10 Ether, PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer, PPG-51/SMDI Copolymer, PPG-10 Sorbitol, PVM/MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP/VA/Itaconic Acid Copolymer, PVP/VA/Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, Rhizobian Gum, Rosin Acrylate, Shellac, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM/MA Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sterculia Urens Gum, Terephthalic Acid/Isophthalic Acid/Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonate/Glycol Copolymer, Trimethylolpropane Triacrylate, Trimethylbiloxylsilicon VA/Crotonates Copolymer, VA/Crotonates/Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA/DBM Copolymer, VA/Vinyl Butyl Benzoate/Crotonates Copolymer, Vinylamine/Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam/VP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP/Acrylates/Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer, VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, VP/Hexadecene Copolymer, VP/VA Copolymer, VP/Vinyl Caprolactam/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, Yeast Palmitate and Styrene/VP Copolymer. Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose are also suitable.
Also, homopolyacrylic acid (INCI: Carbomer), which is commercially available under the name Carbopol® in various forms, is suitable as a firming compound.
Preferably, the firming compound comprises a vinylpyrrolidone-containing polymer. Particularly preferably, the firming compound comprises a polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer (VP/VA copolymer), vinyl caprolactam/VP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (INCI), VP/DMAPA acrylates copolymer (INCI), and mixtures thereof.
Accordingly, it is particularly preferred that the firming compound comprises a synthetic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer (VP/VA copolymer), vinyl caprolactam/VP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (INCI), VP/DMAPA acrylates copolymer (INCI), octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (INCI), and mixtures thereof.
The cosmetic composition may contain, in addition or as an alternative to a synthetic polymer, at least one natural or synthetic wax having a melting point above 37° C. as a firming compound.
Natural or synthetic waxes can be solid kerosenes or isoparaffins, vegetable waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, esparto grass wax, Japan wax, cork wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes and animal waxes such as beeswaxes and other insect waxes, Whale wax, shellac wax, wool wax and brushing grease, furthermore mineral waxes, such as ceresin and ozokerite or petrochemical waxes, such as petrolatum, kerosene waxes, microwaxes of polyethylene or polypropylene and polyethylene glycol waxes can be used. It may be advantageous to use hydrogenated or cured waxes. Chemically modified waxes, in particular hard waxes such as montan ester waxes, sasol waxes and hydrogenated jojoba waxes, can also be used.
Also suitable are the triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C16-30 fatty acids, such as hydrogenated triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate.
The wax components can also be selected from the group of esters of saturated, unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 22 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated, unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 22 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or the totality of wax components are solid at room temperature. Silicone waxes, for example stearyltrimethylsilane/stearyl alcohol, may also be beneficial.
Natural, chemically modified, and synthetic waxes can be used alone or in combination. Thus, several waxes can also be used. Furthermore, several wax mixtures, possibly mixed with other additives, are also commercially available. The products sold under the designations “Special Wax 7686 OE” (a mixture of cetyl palmitate, beeswax, microcrystalline wax and polyethylene with a melting range of 73-75° C.; manufacturer: Kahl & Co), Polywax® GP 200 (a mixture of stearyl alcohol and polyethylene glycol stearate with a melting point of 47-51° C.; manufacturer: Croda) and “Softceresin® FL 400” (a vaseline/vaseline oil/wax mixture with a melting point of 50-54° C.; manufacturer: Parafluid Mineral Oil Company) are examples of mixtures that can be used.
Preferably, the wax is selected from carnauba wax (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Cera) Bienenwachs (INCI: Beeswax), petrolatum (INCI), microcrystalline wax and especially mixtures thereof.
Preferred blends include the combination of carnauba wax (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Cera), petrolatum and microcrystalline wax or the combination of beeswax (INCI: Beeswax) and petrolatum.
The wax or wax components should be solid at 25° C. and should melt in the range >37° C.
The composition for treating a keratinous material preferably contains the firming compound in a total amount of about 0.5 to about 50% by weight, preferably from about 1 to about 40% by weight, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 30% by weight, even more preferably from about 2 to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Other suitable ingredients include nonionic polymers, anionic polymers, (further) cationic polymers, waxes, protein hydrolysates, amino acids, oligopetides, vitamins, provitamins, vitamin precursors, betaines, bioquinones, purine (derivatives), care substances, plant extracts, silicones, ester oils, UV light filters, structuring agents, thickening agents, electrolytes, pH-adjusting agents, swelling agents, colorants, anti-dandruff agents, complexing agents, opacifiers, pearlescent agents, pigments, stabilizing agents, propellants, antioxidants, perfume oils and/or preservatives.
In preferred embodiments 1 to 48, the organic silicon compounds of the following table are combined with the octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (INCI) in a cosmetic composition as contemplated herein.
The active ingredient combination of at least one organic silicon compound and the firming copolymer may already be present in the agent for treating a keratinous material. In this embodiment, the agent for treating a keratinous material is already distributed in a form ready for use. To provide a formulation that is as stable as possible during storage, the agent itself is preferably packaged with low or no water.
Alternatively, the at least one organic silicon compound is added a maximum of 12 hours, preferably a maximum of 6 hours, more preferably a maximum of 3 hours, even more preferably a maximum of 1 hour prior to application of the keratinous material treatment composition to a base comprising all the ingredients of the keratinous material treatment composition except the at least one organic silicon compound.
Furthermore, the organic silicon compound and the firming copolymer are alternatively added to a cosmetic product only shortly before use, i.e., 1 minute to 12 hours, preferably from about 2 minutes to about 6 hours, particularly preferably from about 1 minute to about 3 hours, especially preferably from about 1 minute to about 1 hour.
In another alternative, the organic silicon compound is added to an aqueous solution, which is applied to the hair, and in the second step, an aqueous solution or cosmetic agent containing the strengthening polymer is applied to the hair.
For example, the user may first mix or shake an agent (α) comprising the organic silicon compound(s) with an agent (β) comprising the remaining ingredients of the agent for treating a keratinous material. The user can now apply this mixture of (α) and (β)—either directly after its preparation or after a short reaction time of 1 minute to 20 minutes—to the keratinous materials. The agent (β) may contain water, in particular water in an amount >30% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent for treating keratinous materials.
Another object of the present application is the use of a cosmetic composition as contemplated herein for treating a keratinous material for shaping keratinous material, for the care of keratinous material and/or to reduce and/or prevent harmful effects of air and water contaminants on keratinous material.
About further preferred embodiments of use, the same applies mutatis mutandis as to the cosmetic agents.
While at least one exemplary embodiment has been presented in the foregoing detailed description, it should be appreciated that a vast number of variations exist. It should also be appreciated that the exemplary embodiment or exemplary embodiments are only examples, and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability, or configuration of the various embodiments in any way. Rather, the foregoing detailed description will provide those skilled in the art with a convenient road map for implementing an exemplary embodiment as contemplated herein. It being understood that various changes may be made in the function and arrangement of elements described in an exemplary embodiment without departing from the scope of the various embodiments as set forth in the appended claims.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 2018 127 186.7 | Oct 2018 | DE | national |
This application is a U.S. National-Stage entry under 35 U.S.C. § 371 based on International Application No. PCT/EP2019/079781, filed Oct. 31, 2019, which was published under PCT Article 21(2) and which claims priority to German Application No. 10 2018 127 186.7, filed Oct. 31, 2018, which are all hereby incorporated in their entirety by reference.
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2019/079781 | 10/31/2019 | WO | 00 |
