The present invention generally pertains to an aluminum starch octenylsuccinate derivative of small-granule wheat starch, and cosmetic formulations including the aluminum starch octenylsuccinate derivative of small-granule wheat starch.
Starch is the predominant carbohydrate component of most cereals, legumes, tubers and root crops. It is deposited in plants as tiny, partially crystalline granules. The sizes, shapes, amylose contents and gelatinization temperatures of starch granules are affected by the botanical source of starch. In wheat, two distinct classes of granules differing in size and shape have been reported by Seib, P.S. Wheat Starch: Isolation, Structure, and Properties. Oyo Toshitsu Kagaku 41: 49-69 (1994) and Cornell, H.J. and Hoveling, A.W. Wheat Chemistry and Utilization. Technomic Publishing, Lancaster, Pa. (1998). The two classes are small (˜5 μm), spherical granules and large (˜20 μm), disk-shaped granules.
Personal care products usually contain starch in the form of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate (ASO), which is the aluminum salt of the reaction product of 1-octenylsuccinic anhydride with starch; see, e.g., U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,613,206 and 2,661,349. ASO is not an ocular irritant and does not produce abnormal skin reactions in guinea pigs and rabbits (Anonymous “Final report on the safety assessment of aluminum starch octenyl succinate”, Int. J. Toxicol. 21: 1-7. (2003)). It is nontoxic to rats by inhalation, and clinical facial sting, chamber scarification, and closed patched studies indicated little irritation potential when ASO was tested up to 3% in cosmetic formulations. ASO is used in cosmetic products up to 30% as an anti-caking agent and as a nonaqueous thickening agent. Guth et al. “Polymeric approaches to skin protection”, Cosmet. Toiletries 106: 71-74 (1991) described the performance of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate as an aesthetics control agent in creams and lotions, where it may be used to mitigate the greasiness and drag often associated with products containing high levels of occlusive agents or organic-based UV absorbers. ASO has been reported to enhance the sun protection factor of sunscreen formulations. For example, the sun protection factor value of titanium dioxide in a formulation can be enhanced by as much as 40% upon addition of as little as 5% aluminum starch octenylsuccinate.
Commercially-available wheat starches contain both small (˜5 μm), spherical granules and large (˜20 μm), disk-shaped granules. When wheat starch is used in personal care products, the non-uniform size and morphology within the granular mixture can impact the properties and performance of the final product. For example, products made from wheat starch having a normal distribution of size and shape may not spread easily, may not provide a smooth finish and/or may not effectively absorb oil.
The present instrumentalities advance the art and overcome the problems that are outlined above.
In one aspect, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate (ASO) has a distribution of starch granules with a mean diameter of between 4.5 μm and 8.9 μm. The personal care products including the small-granule ASO may be selected from the group consisting of conditioning shampoo, damaged hair shampoo, hand cream, sunscreen lotion, liquid talc, a soap bar, lipstick, liquid make-up, and a mud mask.
In one aspect a small-granule starch composition includes a plurality of starch granules having a size distribution with a mean diameter between 4.5 μm and 8.9 μm, the starch granules modified by reaction with 1-octenylsuccinic anhydride and an aluminum salt.
The present instrumentalities overcome the above described deficiencies and provide an aluminum starch octenylsuccinate derivative from wheat with a small average particle size. The small-granule ASO derivative has a smooth feel, good slip, and high oil absorption capacity. In one embodiment, cosmetic products may be formulated to contain from 0.1-15% small-granule ASO wheat starch.
The following examples set forth the preparation of the aluminum starch octenylsuccinate derivative of small-granule wheat starch and the formulation of this starch derivative in several cosmetic products. It is to be understood, however, that these examples are provided by way of illustration, and not by limitation, to illustrate preferred embodiments of what is claimed.
Starch Modification. Commercially available small-granule wheat starch (brand name Puramyl SP) was purchased from Latenstein BV (Netherlands). The starch was dispersed in water and modified with 1-octenylsuccinic anhydride and aluminum sulfate according to the provisions of the U.S. Code of Federal Regulations (Title 21 CFR §172.892) for Food Starch-Modified.
Starch Characterization. Granule size distribution was determined using a Coulter MultiSizer II (Beckman Coulter, Inc., Miami, Fla.). Using number statistics, the small-granule wheat starch (Puramyl SP) shows a mean diameter of 4.5 μm. By volume statistics, the mean diameter is 8.9 μm. In contrast, normal wheat starch (brand name Midsol 50 from MGP Ingredients, Inc., Atchison, Kans.) has a mean diameter of 10.6 and 18.1 μm by number statistics and volume statistics, respectively.
Surface topography of starch granules was determined using a scanning electron microscope. Samples were gold coated with a Hummer Sputter Coating System and imaged with a Hitachi 3000N Scanning Electron Microscope. A comparison of the appearance of small-granule and normal-granule wheat starch is shown in
Simmondsia Chinensis
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis
Aloe Vera Extract
Aloe Barbadensis
Rosa Canina
QS = quality standard
In a suitable primary tank, the required amount of distilled water was metered out. Part A ingredients were added to the primary tank in the order listed. The Part B ingredients were then added to the primary tank. The Part C ingredients were added to the primary tank in the order listed. The pH was adjusted to 5.5-6.5 (25% AMP 95) and the viscosity was adjusted with NaCI to the desired thickness.
Simmondsia Chinensis
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis
QS = quality standard
In a suitable primary tank, the required amount of distilled water was metered out. Part A ingredients were added to the primary tank in the order listed. The Part B ingredients were added to the primary tank. The Part C ingredients were added to the primary tank in the order listed. The pH was adjusted to 5.5-6.5 (25% AMP 95) and the viscosity was adjusted with NaCI to the desired thickness.
Theobromo Cacao
Simmondsia Chinensis
Part A ingredients were added to a primary tank and heated to 75° C. In a secondary tank, the Part B ingredients were heated to 75° C. Part B was added to Part A. With good mixing, the Part C ingredients were added to the batch at 65° C. The Part D ingredients were added to the batch when the temperature reached 35° C.
In a suitable primary tank, the required amount of distilled water was metered out. Part A ingredients were added to the primary tank and heated to 75° C. In a secondary tank, the Part B ingredients were weighed out in the order listed and heated to 75° C. Part B was added to Part A. Part C was premixed and added to the batch at 70° C. The Part D ingredients were added to the batch when the temperature reached 40° C.
QS = Quality Standard
The Part A ingredients were added to a primary tank and heated to 75° C. In a secondary tank, the Part B ingredients were mixed and heated to 75° C. Part B was added to Part A. Part C was premixed and added to the batch at 55° C. The Part D ingredients were added to the batch in the order listed when the temperature reached 35° C.
Pruns Amygdalus Dulcis
Theobromo Cacao
Simmondsia Chinensis
Mangifera Indica
Elaeis Guineensis Oil
Carthamus Tinctorius
Glycine Soja Oil
Helianthus Annuus Oil
QS = quality standard
1Sodium Hydroxide 50%
In a suitable primary tank, the Part A ingredients were mixed and heated to 45° C. In a secondary tank, the Part B ingredients were premixed and combined with Part A. The mixture was stirred until tracing was observed (˜20-25 minutes). Part C was added to the batch and stirred. Part D was added to the batch and stirred. The soap was poured into molds and then covered with a warm blanket for 24 hours. The soap was removed from the molds and allowed to cure for a few days.
Ricinus Communis
Euphorbia Cerfera
Copernicia Cerfera
Ricinus Communis
Part A ingredients were added to a tank and heated to 75° C. In a secondary tank, the Part B ingredients were heated to 75° C. Part B was added to Part A. Part C and Part D were premixed and then added to the A-B mixture at 75° C. The temperature was maintained at 75° C until the color was uniform. The preservative and fragrance were added and then the mixture was set in molds at 45° C.
Part A ingredients were added to a tank and the mixture was heated to 75° C. Part E ingredients were pressed through a colloid mill with some propylene glycol and recirculated until the pigments were evenly dispersed. The colloid mill was rinsed with Part C and a lightning mixer was used to thoroughly mix the ingredients, which were heated to 75° C. In a secondary tank, the Part B ingredients were premixed and heated to 75° C. Part B was added to the main batch. Part E was added to the main batch. Part D was premixed and then added to the main batch when the temperature reached 65° C. Part F was added to the main batch when the temperature reached 40° C. The preservative and fragrance were added. The pH and viscosity were adjusted to desired levels.
Part A ingredients were added to a tank and mixed until a uniform solution resulted. The solution was then heated to 75° C. and cooling was started. When the temperature reached 45° C., the Part C ingredients were sprinkled into Part A in the order listed. Part B was added to the batch. The ingredients of Part D were premixed and added to the batch.
Changes may be made in the above compositions and methods without departing from the subject matter described in the Summary and defined by the following claims. It should thus be noted that the matter contained in the above description should be interpreted as illustrative and not limiting.
All references cited are incorporated by reference herein.
This application claims the benefit of priority to U.S. provisional patent application Ser. No. 60/664,433, filed Mar. 23, 2005 and U.S. provisional patent application Ser. No. 60/664,814, filed Mar. 24, 2005, each of which is incorporated herein by reference.
Number | Date | Country | |
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60664433 | Mar 2005 | US | |
60664814 | Mar 2005 | US |