The present invention relates to an anchoring and support climbing device.
More particularly, the present invention relates to a rock anchoring and support device for the passive safety of mountaineers and climbers during wall or slope climbing.
Portable and removable spring loaded cam mechanical safety devices, commonly known as friends, are widely known and used in the field of climbing and mountaineering, which are suitable for being inserted in a steady manner in cracks or fissures of the rock walls in such a way as to guarantee anchoring and steady and secure support to the wall for the mountaineer or climber and to be subsequently and easily removed.
During climbing progression, the mountaineer or climber must always be properly secured to the vertical wall by means of ropes or wires, typically dynamic safety ropes, which must be fixed to the rock support at regular intervals so as to limit the same climber's fall in case of loss of wall adhesion or anchoring. Said dynamic safety ropes are typically connected and secured in a sliding manner to the rock walls by means of traditional anchoring means or devices, comprising said removable cam devices such as friends, for example.
A great advantage of the removable type anchoring devices is that they can be reused several times by the climber during the ascent, compared to the classic rock pressure nails or bolts.
Said traditional anchoring and support cam devices or friends typically comprise a body or a central bearing structure, able to be connected at one of its ends with a typical dynamic mountaineering rope. On said central body or structure a plurality of movable cams are rotatably hinged, symmetrically opposed and defining generally on their outer contact surface facing the rock, a typically logarithmic spiral or round involute shaped profile. This particular spiral conformation allows to have an optimal working angle β on each point of the contact profile, typically equal to about 14°, measured between a straight line perpendicular to the tensile force and passing through the cam contact point and the straight line joining the rotation centre and the same contact point, as shown with preliminary reference to
Said cams are generally held in a maximum open steady position by means of traditional spring loaded elastic elements and are brought into the closed position by acting on tie rods by means of a handle, so as to overcome the resistance of the elastic elements and bring the cams into closed position. In the closed position the cams have a minimum sizes dimension that allows them to be easily inserted into the crack or fissure of the rock wall. To fit to the various sizes and widths of the cracks in the rock said cam devices are generally made in series of proportionately standardized sizes in such a way as to cover a range of sizes traditionally extended from a few tens of millimetres to some tens of centimetres. Each friend's cam dimension suitable for covering a given crack size range is typically indicated with a specific colour so as to be immediately recognizable to the climber or user.
Usually in a group or set of climbing friends there are a plurality of devices, each provided with a group of cams of increasing size and proportion, so that the climber can progressively cover rising gaps or ranges of cracks or fissures in the rock.
A typical example of these known anchoring and support cam devices is described in document U.S. Pat. No. 4,184,657 (A) which refers to a climbing aid device with a support bar, a pin mounted on the same support bar, two pairs of cams rotatably mounted on the same pin and suitable for rotating in an opposite manner from a closed position to an open position. Spring elements are mounted on the pin between each pair of cams and are suitable for applying a force to each cam so as to push it into its open position. An operating bar is slidably mounted on the support bar and is connected to each cam, while an attachment point for a climbing wire is formed on the opposite end to the pin of the support bar. Applying a downward force on the operating bar brings the cams into the closed position so that the device can be inserted into a crack formed in the rocks or the like. The operating bar is then released, and the spring elements push the cams into the open position, locking the device inside the crack. The document also describes a support bar which can also comprise means for holding the operating bar in a position where the cams are in the closed position.
A limitation, however, is due that it is not possible to proportionally increase the cams' dimension beyond a certain size with respect to the body or support structure of the friend in order to be able to fit the anchor device to cracks or fissures in the rock with a width of the order of tens of centimeters. To try to overcome this drawback, in some known embodiments, the cams are advantageously and rotatably hinged with their respective rotation pins to movement means of the same rotation pins, said movement means being configured to move the same rotation pins of the cams in opposite directions in such a way as to increase or decrease the gap or opening range of the same cams.
These movement means of the rotation pins can be advantageously provided by means of mobile support arms or appendages, externally projecting to the friend's body and such as to project or protrude the rotation pin and the respective cam to the outside in order to allow the device to fit to space of size gradually larger than the cracks or fissures, without increasing the size of the cams.
A typical example of this type of technical solution is described in the international application WO 2006/125942 which refers to a cam climbing device comprising two support arms rotatably mounted around an axis, where each arm is provided at its free end with at least two rotatably arranged cams and locking means suitable to prevent the arms from rotating with respect to each other when a predetermined angle is reached.
An important limitation of these traditional cam anchoring devices provided with cam's pins movement means, such as arms or support appendages, is due to the fact that they tend to be very unsteady and the instability increases proportionally with the size and the distance covered by the same movement means of the pins.
With preliminary reference to figures from 8a to 9c, the increasing in size or in operating length of the pins' movement means, such as the arms in the figures example, while the cam size remains unchanged, causes a transverse component T1 of the force T not longitudinally directed along to the vertical direction (gravity) or along to the longitudinal development of the crack or fissure, produces a moment M, proportional to the distance of the pins, which destabilizes the anchoring support device or friend leading to dangerous losses of contact with the rock surface.
The object of this invention is to overcome and resolve, at least in part, the above-mentioned drawbacks and operating limits.
More specifically, the object of the present invention is to provide an anchoring and support climbing device capable of adapting to a greater size range of rock cracks, openings or fissures.
A further object of the present invention is to provide an anchoring and support climbing device suitable to remaining steady without losing adherence to the rocky surface even in the event of a tensile force that has a component transversal to the longitudinal axis of the crack or fissure of the rock.
A further object of the present invention is to give to the user a climbing anchoring and support device provided with a fine and gradual adjustment to accurately fit in the various sizes of the cracks in the rock.
A further object of the present invention is to provide an anchoring and support climbing device able to guarantee a high level of resistance and reliability over time, such as to be easily and inexpensively produced.
These and other objects are achieved by the anchoring and support climbing device object of the present invention in accordance with the independent claim.
The constructive and functional characteristics of the anchoring and support climbing device can be better understood from the following detailed description, in which reference is made to the attached drawings which represent some preferred and non-limiting embodiments.
The following figures shown in the drawings are schematic and simplified, different crosshatched and fillings style of the areas can highlight, in addition to a particular sectioned part, different elements and for greater clarity the element lines or hidden features or to which other elements are overlapped are also made visible.
Moreover, for better clarity, some known elements and components that are not essential to this patent description are not shown and, in some views of some figures, lines of elements or features that are hidden or to which other elements are superimposed are also made visible in a simplified and schematic way.
The
Below are described, with reference to the attached figures, some possible preferred embodiments of the anchoring and support device for climbing object of the present invention. In the following description the terms “maximum size” and “minimum size” of the opening, extension or closing positions of the cams, are referring to the different possible working configurations of the anchoring and support device, i.e. the horizontal dimension perpendicular along to the development of the crack, opening or fissure in the rock which is the width or working dimension to which the device must fit. The other dimensions of the same crack, such as height and depth are generally much larger than the width.
Although the following description is limited in the examples, for simplicity and clarity of description, to a minimum number of opposing cams, it will be evident to the skilled person how the same teaching can be in an obvious way extended to multiple configurations with multiple cams or pairs of cams arranged side by side and or in series, as for the previously mentioned traditional devices of the prior art.
With initial reference to all the figures and particularly to figures from 6a to 7c is represented in a generalized embodiment the anchoring and support device for climbing object of the present invention, in the assembly specified with reference number 10, said device comprising:
Innovative feature of said anchoring and support device 10 is to comprise one or more stabilization means 50 provided with said movement means 30 and said locking means 40, said stabilization means 50 being suitable for operating according to an exchange of forces along a second line 12 crossing at least one further contact point S with walls 100′, 100″ of said crack or fissure 100 of said rock, said second line 12 being placed at a different distance from said first line 11 in order to stabilize and prevent at the same time a possible rotation of said anchoring and support device 10 inside said crack or fissure 100.
With particular reference to
With reference to
Said locking means 40 of movement means 30 of the rotation pins, can be suitable for locking simultaneously in fixed position both said rotation pins 25, 25′ and said stabilization means 50, like the abutment elements 70 or the second cams 60, 60′. In other embodiments, instead, said stabilization means of can be provided with their own movement means 30 and locking means.
Said locking means 40 can be suitable to locking in fixed position said second rotation pins 65, 65′ in a steady and fixed way with respect to said anchoring and support device 10, allowing the rotation of first cams 20, 20′ and second cams 60, 60′ with respect to their own axis.
In the embodiments of this description, shown in the attached drawings, given only as a non-limitative example, the cams 20, 20′ and the opposed second cams 60, 60′ are of equal dimensions and with the centers of the rotation pins 25, 25′ and of the second rotation pins 65, 65′ joined by a substantially horizontal straight line; it will result however evident to the skilled person as the invention is also enabling with cams 20, 20′ and second cams 60, 60′ of different dimensions between them and with the centers of the rotation pins 25, 25′ and second rotation pins 65, 65′ not disposed on a perfectly horizontal straight line.
This anchoring and support device 10 can also comprise connection means 17 (
Said movement means 30 of the rotation pins, can be suitable to advantageously move the rotation pins 25, 25′ of the first cams 20, 20′ and, at the same time, also the second rotation pins 65, 65′ of the second cams 60, 60′.
With particular reference to the main embodiment of the figures from 1a to 5b and in particular to
First cams 20, 20′ and the second cams 60, 60′ can comprise, in all embodiments, a typical contact profile 21, traditionally having a logarithmic spiral or evolving development, said contact profile 21 being suitable for anchoring to a wall 100, 100′ of rock, said first cams 20, 20′ and said second cams 60, 60′ being suitable to dispose between a closed limit position with reduced size, gathered on said anchoring and support device 10, and a maximum opening limit position extended and protruding from the body of said anchoring and support device.
Each cam 20, 20′ and second cam 60, 60′ is generally maintained in a monosteady rest position of and maximum extension or opening by means of an elastic element, not shown, such as a helical torsion spring coaxially arranged with respect to the rotation pin 25, 25′ or the second rotation pin 65, 65′.
Said rotation pins 25, 25′ and said second rotation pins 65, 65′ can be joined by an axis or straight line passing through the central pin 35 of said rocker arms 31, 31′ but can also have a different conformation wherein said straight line or axis does not pass through the central pin 35 and wherein the rocker arm 31, 31′ have an arched development.
With reference instead to
Said abutment elements 70 can be advantageously curved in the shape of a scythe, mezzaluna or hook, wherein the extremity of said abutment element 70, suitable to contacting with the rock wall, is preferably bent towards the inside of the anchoring and support device 10.
In a further embodiment, shown in
The outer surface of the inclined portions of said abutment elements 70, which are suitable for rock contacting, can be advantageously engrailed or knurled to improve adhesion, as with the outer contact surfaces of traditional cams.
In a further variant embodiment, illustrated in
In a variant embodiment, not shown, said rocker arms 31, 31′ can also be hinged to a central body on several central pins 35.
With reference again to
Said first tie rods 55 can be of the cable type, or shaped battens in metal or composite material and are generally connected with said handle 56 sliding disposed to a handle or to connection means of 17 of the anchoring and support device 10.
With reference to all embodiments provided of cams stabilization means 50, said movement means 40 of said rotation pins 25, 25′, suitable to stabilize said rotation pin 25, 25′ in a steady and fixed way with respect to the same anchoring and support device 10, can also be suitable to simultaneously locking of said second rotation pins 65, 65′ of said second cams 60, 60′ of said stabilization means 50.
In other embodiment forms described below, the rotation pins 25, 25′ and the second rotation pins 65, 65′ of said second cams 50 stabilization means can each be provided with its own locking means 40.
With reference to the previous embodiments described above, said central pin 35 can advantageously be hollow in such a way as to be suitable for thoroughly housing a rope or elastic safety rope 95 suitable for applying the tensile force T to the anchoring and support device, as shown for example in
Always with reference to all the figures, a common feature of the anchoring and support device 10 of the present invention is to be provided with known movement means 30 arranged in cooperation with said stabilization means 50, in such a way to positioning or displacing at the same time said rotation pins 25, 25′ of the first cams 20, 20′ and said stabilization means 50, with respect to the same anchoring and support device 10, between a minimum size position or configuration of rotation pins 25, 25′ and of stabilization means 50, indicated in the figures with the letter A, and a maximum size position of rotation pins 25, 25′ and of stabilization means 50, indicated in the figures with the letter B, moving the relative position of said pins 25, 25′ and of said stabilization means 50 among them, until also inverting the position of the same pins.
In this way, the anchoring and support device 10 can be fitting to cracks or fissures 100 of the rock with minimum dimensions, in the limit configuration with rotation pins 25, 25′ and stabilizing means 50 in a minimum size configuration marked with the letter A and with a closed position of cams 20, 20′ and stabilization means 50 and, at the same time, accommodate the same anchoring and support device 10 to larger and larger cracks or fissures 100 of the rock in the limit configuration with the rotation pins 25, 25′ and the stabilization means 50 moved or displaced in a maximum size position, marked with the letter B and with a maximum opening or extension of the cams 20, 20′ and the stabilization means 50, compared to the minimum size configuration.
To leading cams 20, 20′ and the 50 stabilization means, comprising for example the second cams 60, 60′, in the closed position gathered on the anchoring and support device 10, are traditionally used second tie rods (not shown) of the type wires or cables metal or polymeric material generally tied to the same cams 20, 20′, and the second cams 60, 60′ at openings 22, so as to create a moment of force with respect to the rotation pin 25, 25′ and the second rotation pin 65, 65′ and overcome the resistance of the elastic element.
Said tie-rods are preferably fixed to a second handle 56′ slidingly arranged with respect to a handle or connection means 17 of said anchoring and support device 10.
Said rocker arms 31, 31′ or arms can be further provided with an elastic element 90, type elastic torsion spring, suitable to maintaining the same rocker arms in a steady position at one of the limit configurations, said elastic elements being placed in correspondence of the central pin 35 or of the tie rods 55 as shown in
With particular reference now to
Said deformable articulated quadrilateral 80 can comprise two second central pins 35′ disposed at two opposite vertices of said deformable articulated quadrilateral 80, while at the remaining vertices, said deformable articulated quadrilateral 80 comprises the rotation pins 25, 25′ to which the respective first cams 20, 20′ are hinged.
With reference again to the same figures, said rotation pins 25, 25′ are also rotatably hinged, in a generally central portion, of the additional second rocker arms 75, 75′ comprising on their distal ends the stabilization means 50, as for example said second cams 60, 60′ hinged to the same second rocker arms 75, 75′ by means of the relative second rotation pins 65, 65′.
In a further variant embodiment, with reference now to
Always with reference to the same figures, said rotation pins 25, 25′ are always rotatably hinged in a generally central portion of said second rocker arms 75, 75′, which in correspondence of their distal ends are hinged to the second rotation pins 65, 65′ of said second cams 60, 60′ of said stabilization means 50.
With reference now to
In a possible variant of this further embodiment, with particular reference to figures from 25a to 25d that shown for clarity of description only cams relative to one side of the device, said the locking means 40 of the rotation pin 25, 25′ can comprise a narrow portion of said slotted opening 36 connecting said ends 37, 37′, said narrow portion having a limited passage section with respect to said passage ends 37, 37′ and suitable to be placed in cooperation of movement with a flattening obtained on the external surface of the rotation pin 25, 25′. In correspondence of said flattering said rotation pin 25, 25′ has a reduced diametrical section suitable for be rotatably aligned with the narrow portion of said slotted opening 36, so that in said alignment position the pin 25, 25′ can freely slide without rotating inside said slotted opening 36 between the ends 37, 37′ defining the limit positions of configurations A and B.
Said rotation pin 25, 25′ is advantageously returned back in steady position inside one of the ends 37, 37′, by means of traditional spring elements or equivalent. When the first cam 20, 20′ rotates in the position suitable for bring the diametrical section of the rotation pin 25, 25′ with the flattering aligned to said narrow portion 38 of the slotted opening 36, the same rotation pin 25,25′ can be manually moved towards the end 37, 37′ opposite, in a different overall configuration, overcoming the force of the elastic element. By subsequently rotating the pin at the destination end 37, 37′ and misaligning the flattering 26, the pin 25, 25′ shows a diametric section larger than the narrow portion 38 such as to maintaining it in position and prevent the spring element 60 from recalling it back in the starting steady configuration position through the narrow portion 38.
This embodiment can advantageously be applied to all 25, 25′ pins of the anchoring support device 10 or only to the 25′ pin of cam 20 or, vice versa, to the 25′ pin of cam 20. With reference also to
The user manoeuvring on a third tie rod 94 with a force in the direction of the arrow F of
With reference now to
Always with reference to the exemplificative shape of the same figures, referring for clarity only to the rotation pin 25 and cam 20, the rotation pin 25 is manually moved by means of the tie rods 55 overcoming the force of the elastic element 60, in order to leading the same rotation pin 25 with cam 20 from the maximum size limit position B of
With reference now to
With particular reference to
A further advantage of this embodiment described above is to be suitable for locking the rotation pins 25, 25′ in several intermediate positions in addition to the limit positions of configurations A and B by increasing the number of recesses 32 formed on selector 53.
The movement and rotation of the cams 20, 20′ is always obtained also in this embodiment by means of traditional tie rods, for clarity not shown, generally displaced in correspondence of the connection means 17 of the anchoring and support device 10.
With reference now again to the embodiments of the figures from 1a to 5b, from 10a to 14b and from 17 to 20b, said locking means 40 of the rotation pin 25, 25′ and of the stabilization means 50, can comprise a ratchet locking mechanism (also said jack mechanism) configured to allow, in operative conditions, the rotation in a single direction with respect to the central pin 35, so as to prevent the rotation movement of the rocker arms 31, 31′ in the direction of rotation that leads to the closure of the same anchoring and support device 10 with consequent loss of contact between the walls of the rock surface.
With particular reference to
The crown 115′ formed on the rocker arm 31 is suitable to engage in rotation cooperation at least one conjugate crown 115′ of the rocker arm 31.
The asymmetrical shape and orientation of the tilted teeth 110′ of the crowns 115 and 115′, engaged in surface contact with each other, allows the relative rotation between said rocker arm 31, 31′ in a direction of rotation concordant with the orientation direction of tilted teeth 110′ of the crown 115, 115′ opposite to the considered direction, while it is prevented in the opposite direction wherein tilted teeth 110′ engaging with the 110′ recesses. The relative rotation of the rocker arms 31, 31′ is also associated with an axial translation of one of the rocker arms 31, 31′ with respect to the second rotation pin 50, in such a way as to allow the disengagement of said tilted teeth 110′ with the conjugate recesses 110′ and the subsequent engagement of the same with their subsequent counterparts in the direction of rotation of the ratchet mechanism.
With reference again to the embodiments of
With reference to all embodiments comprising ratchet type locking means 40, said rocker arms 31, 31′ are advantageously held with the surfaces of the respective crowns 115, 115′ engaged and in contact by means of at least one contrast elastic element, such as for example a spiral spring coaxially arranged on said central pin 35 or on said second central pins 35′ between the external surface of the rocker arm 31, 31′. In order to be able to rotate with respect to each other at least one of the rocker arms 31, 31′ has to axially move to disengage the crowns 115, 115′ in order to allow the tilted teeth 110′ to snapping in the next engagement position.
With reference again to the forms of realization of
In a variant form, said rod 82 can also comprise a diametrically smooth surface so that said pins and said rocker arms 31, 31′ can be free to move by varying the angle between them. Rod 82 is also advantageously equipped with calipers or locking brakes, not shown, so as to block the relative sliding of the same rod 82 with said rocker arms 31, 31′ so as to remain attached to it and keep the angle between them steady.
From the description of embodiments of the anchoring and support device 10 above described, the operation described below can be seen.
As generally happens in the operating of all embodiments of the anchoring and support device 10 for climbing described above, also in this case, manoeuvring on a handle 56 connected to tie rods 55 the resisting force of the elastic elements of the movement means of the rotation pins 25, 25′ is overcoming, bringing cams 20, 20′ and stabilization means 50 into the closed position and the anchoring and support device 10 into the minimum size configuration A, as shown for example in
The elastic elements of the cams 20, 20′, coaxially arranged on the first rotation pins 25, 25, and possibly the second cams 60, 60′ have a lower elastic stiffness than the possible elastic elements 90 of the rocker arms 31, 31′ of the torsion spring type, coaxially arranged on the central pin 35, so that the same rocker arms 31, 31′ cannot be leaded in rotation until the cams 20, 20′ have reached the closed position.
Once the limit closing position of the cams 20, 20′ of
By continuing to apply force to the handle 56, a plurality of steady intermediate positions can be reached in sequence by operating and releasing the locking means 40 in succession, thus allowing the anchoring and support device 10 to be progressively adjusted to a plurality of intermediate positions (
When using the anchoring and support device of this invention on cracks or fissures in the rock surface of shallower depths, the anchoring and support device can be inserted only at the first cams 20, 20′, leaving the stabilization means 50 out of the cracks or fissure.
In this case, the anchor device is suitable to operate as a traditional climbing device according to the known art. To return the device to the starting position, the user must manually unlock the locking means 40 and return them to the starting position.
In the main embodiment, with the locking means 40 preferably defining a ratchet or jack mechanism locking, during the rotation of the rocker arms 31, 31′ the tilted teeth 110′ and the recesses 110 radially arranged on the respective crowns 115, 115′ disengage themselves allowing the external rocker arm 31′ to simultaneously move axially overcoming the reaction of a contrast elastic element, until progressively engaging the next tilted teeth 110′ with the conjugate recesses 110 of the respective crown 115, 115′, so as to bring the anchoring and support device 10, for example, from a minimum size limit position of configuration A of
In the passage between the two limit configurations A and B the device can advantageously be arranged in a plurality of positions corresponding to intermediate and progressively increasing configurations, corresponding to each single position between the recesses 110 and the tilted teeth 110′ of the conjugate crowns 115115′ thus allowing, also in this particular embodiment, a progressive adaptation of the anchoring and support device 10 in a plurality of intermediate positions so that it can be easily adapted with one hand to different sizes of cracks or fissures of the rock surface. Once the appropriate adjustment has been reached, the cams 20, 20′ opening brings them into contact with the rock support by making the final accurate adjustment.
With particular reference to
As can be seen from the foregoing, the operation and the advantages that the anchoring and support climbing device 10 object of the present invention achieves are evident.
The anchoring and support device 10 for climbing object of the present invention is particularly advantageous because it makes possible to provide the user with a device with greater safety, able to function by the stabilization means 50 even when the tensile force of the applied load is not substantially perpendicular to the vertical or to the development of the crack or fissure of the rock.
The anchoring and support device 10 for climbing object of the present invention is also particularly advantageous because, thanks to its stability, it allows the user to adapt to larger intervals of crack or fissure size in the rock, allowing the user to carry a smaller number of devices in a climb and therefore a reduced weight, also allowing him to reuse the same anchoring and support device 10 several times.
The anchoring and support device 10 for climbing of the present invention is also particularly advantageous because it allows gradual and accurate adjustment, for example, by means of the ratchet or jack locking means 40, which allow it to adapt precisely and optimally to the different width dimensions of cracks or fissures in the rock.
A further advantage of the anchoring and support device 10 object of the present invention is that the use of movement means 30 able to cover the size ranges of larger cracks or fissures in the rock also makes it possible to use a smaller working angle β and such as to guarantee the discharge on the rock face of a greater transverse component of the tensile force with a consequent and advantageous increase in the friction force and stability of the device itself.
A further advantage of the anchoring and support device 10 object of the present invention is due to the use of movement means 30 of pins and stabilization means 50, gives the device adaptation and stability at wide measuring ranges of the size of cracks or fissures 100, the P working angle of the first cams 20, 20′ and the second cams 60, 60′ determined in the design phase, can be advantageously chosen lower than a traditional cam thus increasing the normal component at the rock surface and advantageously increasing the friction force of the cam on the rock.
Although the invention has been described above with particular reference to a series of preferred embodiments, given as an example and not limited purpose, many further modifications and variations will appear obvious to the skilled person in the light of the above description. The present invention, therefore, intends to embrace all modifications and variants that fall within the protective scope of the following claims.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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10 2019 000013551 | Jul 2019 | IT | national |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
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PCT/IB2020/057276 | 7/31/2020 | WO |