Anchoring device for use in rock crevices and the like during rock climbing activities

Information

  • Patent Grant
  • 6736359
  • Patent Number
    6,736,359
  • Date Filed
    Monday, July 1, 2002
    22 years ago
  • Date Issued
    Tuesday, May 18, 2004
    20 years ago
  • Inventors
  • Examiners
    • King; Anita
    • Morrison; Naschica S.
    Agents
    • Tracy; Emery L.
Abstract
An anchoring device for use in a rock crevice is provided. The anchoring device is movable from a non-activated position to an activated position. The anchoring device comprises a first axle member and a first cam rotatable about the first axle member with the first cam having a first side surface, a first bottom surface, and a first contact surface, the first contact surface contactable with the first rock wall. A second axle member is provided in a spaced in a parallel configuration from the first axle member with a second cam rotatable about the second axle member. The second cam has a second side surface, a second bottom surface, and a second contact surface, the second contact surface contactable with the second rock wall, wherein in a non-activated position, the first axle member is closer to the first rock wall than the second axle member, the second axle member is closer to the second rock wall than the first axle member, and the first bottom surface of the first cam is free from overlap with the second bottom surface of the second cam.
Description




BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION




1. Field of the Invention




This invention relates generally to an anchoring device for use in rock crevices and the like during rock climbing activities and, more particularly, it relates to an anchoring device for use in rock crevices and the like which utilizes directly opposed cams supported on dual parallel axles.




2. Description of the Prior Art




When climbers move over difficult or dangerous terrain, it is highly advisable and common practice to utilize a rope to secure the climbers together and to anchor the rope in slidable manner to the mountain or rock face being climbed. Furthermore, in the interests of safety, it is prudent to obtain a firm anchor to which the rope can be suitably secured.




In the past, numerous devices have been devised to assist climbers in securing ropes to cracks or crevices in rock walls for the purpose of climbing safely. Such anchors can be natural, i.e. rock spikes, flakes, chockstones jammed in cracks, natural rock threads, and the like. With such anchors, a separate loop of rope or webbing is attached to the natural anchor and to which the climbing rope is slidably secured.




As an alternative to natural anchors, artificial anchors can be utilized. Thus, artificial chockstones or nuts are known of a variety of shapes and sizes and which are inserted into cracks or holes in the face being climbed. Pitons, also known, are metal spikes of various shapes and sizes, which can be hammered into cracks or crevices in the rock face. Yet again, it is known to provide bolts, a modified form of piton and which are designed to be hammered into drilled holes in solid rock.




So far as natural anchors are concerned, these have no inherent disadvantage so long as the rock of the face being climbed is firm and not smooth. However, at the start of a climb it is often apparent that there are an insufficient number of natural anchors existing over the whole face. Artificial chockstones provide an efficient anchor especially when placed in an uneven crack, but placing the artificial chockstone in place tends to be somewhat difficult and/or time consuming, and some placements can be dislodged by movement of the climbing rope. When all that is available, where an anchor is needed, is a smooth-side, parallel-sided crack, placement of the chockstones is difficult both to make and to ensure it is secured.




Both pitons and bolts again provide extremely efficient anchors, but with pitons being made of metal they can be heavy and difficult to place. Also, since the removal of pitons can be extremely difficult and as they tend to scar the rock surface, many climbers are unwilling to use them. Similarly, bolts take an appreciable length of time to place and cause a permanent disfiguration of the rock face. Due to these problems, there is an unwillingness among climbers to employ bolts, except as a last resort.




More recently, spring loaded camming devices are used incorporating multiple pivoting cams, which are spring-biased toward an open position to allow placement of these devices securely into cracks and rock crevices of varying size. To position the camming devices, the climber simply pulls a trigger closing the cams until the cams fit within the rock crack or crevice. The climber then releases the trigger and the spring or springs expand forcing the cams against the rock surface. An induced static friction force between the camming device and the rock face counteracts the applied load. Because such devices can be subject to substantial loads in holding a falling climber, it is desirable to construct such anchors in a manner which provides the greatest possible structural integrity of the device.




Spring loaded camming devices revolutionized climbing by allowing climbers to protect parallel-sided cracks in a variety of sizes. Conventional spring loaded camming devices utilizing one or two axles are heavier than similar size chockstones. Single axle spring-loaded camming devices are lighter in weight than double axle spring loaded camming devices. Lightweight spring loaded camming devices are important because a climber can carry more protection devices for a given weight thereby making safer climbing. Expansion range is the maximum minus the minimum crevice size a spring-loaded camming device will tolerate. Double axle spring loaded camming devices have more expansion range than single axle spring-loaded camming devices. Expansion range is important because a spring loaded cam device with a lot of expansion range is more likely to fit into a given size crevice.




Accordingly, there exists a need for an anchoring device for use in rock crevices and the like which sufficiently supports a climber during rock climbing activities. Additionally, a need exists for an anchoring device for use in rock crevices and the like during rock climbing activities which utilizes cams supported on dual parallel axles which would allow the configuration to be lightweight and have a large expansion range.




SUMMARY




The present invention is an anchoring device for use in a rock crevice. The anchoring device is movable from a non-activated position to an activated position within the rock crevice with the rock crevice being defined by a first rock wall and an opposing second rock wall. The anchoring device comprises a first axle member and a first cam rotatable about the first axle member with the first cam having a first side surface, a first bottom surface, and a first contact surface. The first contact surface is contactable with the first rock wall. A second axle member is provided and spaced in a parallel configuration from the first axle member with a second cam rotatable about the second axle member. The second cam has a second side surface, a second bottom surface, and a second contact surface with the second contact surface contactable with the second rock wall wherein the first axle member is closer to the first rock wall than the second axle member and the second axle member is closer to the second rock wall than the first axle member.




In addition, the present invention includes an anchoring device for use in a rock crevice. The anchoring device is movable from a non-activated position to an activated position within the rock crevice with the rock crevice being defined by a first rock wall and an opposing second rock wall. The anchoring device comprises a first axle member and a first cam rotatable about the first axle member with the first cam having a first side surface, a first bottom surface, and a first contact surface. The first contact surface is contactable with the first rock wall. A second axle member is positioned and spaced in a parallel configuration from the first axle member with a second cam rotatable about the second axle member. The second cam has a second side surface, a second bottom surface, and a second contact surface with the second contact surface contactable with the second rock wall wherein in a non-activated position, the first bottom surface of the first cam is free from overlap with the second bottom surface of the second cam.




The present invention further includes a method for securing a climber to a rock face. The method comprises providing a first axle member, positioning a first cam in a first longitudinal rotatable position about the first axle member with the first cam having a first side surface, a first bottom surface, and a first contact surface and the first contact surface contactable with the first rock wall, providing a second axle member spaced in a parallel configuration from the first axle member, and positioning a second cam in a second longitudinal rotatable about the second axle member with the second cam having a second side surface, a second bottom surface, and a second contact surface and the second contact surface contactable with the second rock wall wherein in a non-activated position, the first axle member is closer to the first rock wall than the second axle member and the second axle member is closer to the second rock wall than the first axle member and the first bottom surface of the first cam is free from overlap with the second bottom surface of the second cam.











BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS





FIG. 1

is a perspective view illustrating an anchoring device for use in rock crevices and the like during rock climbing activities, constructed in accordance with the present invention;





FIG. 2

is a top view illustrating the anchoring device for use in rock crevices and the like during rock climbing activities of

FIG. 1

, constructed in accordance with the present invention; and





FIG. 3

is an elevational side view illustrating the anchoring device for use in rock crevices and the like during rock climbing activities of

FIG. 1

, constructed in accordance with the present invention;











DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS




As illustrated in

FIGS. 1

,


2


, and


3


, the present invention is an anchoring device, indicated generally at


10


, for use in rock crevices (not shown) and the like for supporting a climber (not shown) during rock climbing activities. In the present application, each element of the anchoring device


10


will be described first.




The anchoring device


10


of the present invention includes a first axle


12


and a second axle


14


substantially parallel to the first axle


12


. The first axle


12


and the second axle


14


each have a first end


16


and a second end


18


. A first spacing plate


20


and a second spacing plate


22


are secured to the first ends


16


and the second ends


18


, respectively, of the first axle


12


and the second axle


14


for spacing the first axle


12


from the second axle


14


. The first end


16


has a flange


24


to maintain the first spacing plate


20


about the first axle


12


and the second axle


14


. The second end


18


is preferably threaded for receiving a nut


26


or the like. The flange first end


16


and the nut


26


releasably secured to the second end


18


of the first axle


12


and the second axle end


14


, respectively, maintains the first axle


12


and the second axle


14


in a parallel-spaced configuration.




The first axle


12


and the second axle


14


are preferably constructed from a metal material capable of supporting loads greater than approximately two thousand (2000 lbs.) pounds although using other materials to construct the first axle


12


and the second axle


14


are within the scope of the present invention. As discussed, the first axle


12


and the second axle


14


are preferably arranged in a parallel configuration relative to each other and have lengths of between approximately 0.5 inches and approximately 2.0 inches depending on the number of cam members


28


that are present, as will be discussed in further detail immediately below.




The anchoring device


10


of the present invention further includes at least two cam members


28


. The first axle


12


and the second axle


14


rotatably support the cam members


28


, as illustrated. It should be noted that while figures of the present application illustrate four cam members


28




a


,


28




b


,


28




c


,


28




d


, it is within the scope of the present invention to include less than four cam members


28


, i.e., two cam members, or more than four cam members


28


, i.e., six cam members, eight cam members, etc. A torsion spring


30


is mounted about the first axle


12


and the second axle


14


and is secured to the cam members


28


to bias opposite cam members


28




a


,


28




b


in a general direction toward each other and to bias opposite cam members


28




c


,


28




d


in a general direction toward each other.




Preferably, each cam member


28


is identical in size and shape to each other cam member


28


. In addition, the cam members


28


are preferably constructed from an aluminum material providing high strength, durability, corrosion resistance, and ease of manufacture. Of course, other materials for constructing the cam members


28


are within the scope of the present invention.




Each cam member


28


of the anchoring device


10


has three sides, e.g., a side surface


32


, a bottom surface


34


intersecting the side surface


32


, and a curved rock contact surface


36


positioned between and intersecting the side surface


32


and the bottom surface


34


. Preferably, the curved rock contact surface


36


has a logarithmic spiral configuration. The logarithmic spiral configuration of the curved rock contact surface


36


allows the angle between the line of force and the rock face to remain the same regardless of which portion of the curved rock contact or supporting surface


36


is contacting the rock. Therefore, it follows that a force diagram for the anchoring device


10


will always yield the same results regardless of which portion of the curved rock contact surface


36


is contacting the rock.




In the four or more cam member


28


configuration, the anchoring device


10


includes at least one shaft-receiving center spacer


38


. The shaft-receiving center spacer


38


is positioned between the first axle


12


and the second axle


14


for further maintaining the spacing of the first axle


12


and the second axle


14


. The first spacing plate


20


, the second spacing plate


22


, and the center spacer


38


further secures the first axle


12


and the second axle


14


together.




The center spacer


38


of the anchoring device


10


includes a cable-receiving aperture


40


formed in the center spacer


38


for receiving a cable


42


. The diameter of the cable-receiving aperture


40


is sized and shaped for receiving and securing the cable


42


therein.




The anchoring device


10


of the present invention additionally includes the cable


42


having a first cable end


44


and a second cable end


46


. The first cable end


44


of the cable


42


extends into the cable-receiving aperture


40


of the center spacer


38


and secured therein. The second end


46


of the cable


42


is looped around and swaged to itself to create a loop


48


. The loop


48


allows the climber to easily attach a carabiner (not shown) or the like to the anchoring device


10


.




Preferably, the cable


42


is a type


304


, stainless steel cable with a ⅛-inch diameter to support approximately two thousand (2,000 lbs.) pounds. Other types of cables for use with the anchoring device


10


of the present invention are within the scope of the present invention. Furthermore, a sheath


50


can be positioned about the cable


42


for protecting the cable


42


from wear and damage during climbing activities.




The anchoring device


10


further still includes a trigger device


52


for activating the anchoring device


10


during climbing activities. A cable-receiving aperture


54


is formed in the substantial center of the trigger device


52


for receiving the cable


42


and the sheath


50


and to slidably position the trigger device


52


along the cable


42


. The trigger device


52


preferably has a substantially obround shape and is preferably constructed from an aluminum material, although other configurations and materials are within the scope of the present invention.




A first wire


56


extends from the trigger device


52


and connects to a first wire-receiving aperture


58


in the cam member


28




a


. A second wire


60


extends from the trigger device and connects to a second wire-receiving aperture


62


of the cam member


28




b


. For each additional cam member


28


, an additional wire extends from the trigger device


52


to the respective cam member


28


. Preferably, each wire, including the first wire


56


and the second wire


60


, is constructed from a stainless steel material, although other types of materials are within the scope of the present invention.




The operation of the anchor device


10


of the present invention will now be described. A person skilled in the art will understand that the anchor device


10


can be operated in numerous manners and that the description set forth below is merely one manner of operation.




As a climber climbs a rock face, the climber desires to position the anchoring device


10


into a rock crevice or crack formed in a rock face. First, the climber activates the cam members


28


by urging the trigger device


52


in a direction generally away from the cam members


28


. The action of the trigger device


52


overcomes the bias of the torsion spring


30


and causes the bottom surface


34


of the cam members


28


to move toward each other. The climber then releases the trigger device


52


causing the torsion spring


30


to bias the supporting contact surface


36


of the cam members


28


against opposed rock surfaces within the rock crevice or crack.




When a load is applied to the anchoring device


10


of the present invention, the reaction forces on cam members


28


urge the cam members


28


in a direction toward each other. The first and second axles


12


and


14


provide a reaction force directly opposite the reaction forces from the cam members


28


, such that the axles


12


and


14


are free from any induced moment.




The anchoring device


10


of the present invention offers numerous advantages over conventional rock climbing devices. The anchoring device


10


is easily manufactured with identical cam members


28


. The anchoring device


10


is significantly lighter in weight than conventional devices with the same or more expansion range. The anchoring device


10


can withstand the same applied force as conventional devices with the addition of the flexible cable


42


that allows the anchoring device


10


to bend over the rock, when necessary.




The foregoing exemplary descriptions and the illustrative preferred embodiments of the present invention have been explained in the drawings and described in detail, with varying modifications and alternative embodiments being taught. While the invention has been shown, described and illustrated, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that equivalent changes in the form and detail may be therein without departing from the true spirit and scope of the invention, and that the scope of the present invention is to be limited only to the claims except as precluded by the prior art. Moreover, the invention as disclosed herein, may be suitably practiced in the absence of the specific elements which are disclosed herein.



Claims
  • 1. An anchoring device for use in a rock crevice, the anchoring device movable from a non-activated position to an activated position within the rock crevice, the rock crevice being defined by a first rock wall and an opposing second rock wall, the anchoring device comprising:a first axle member; a first cam rotatable about the first axle member, the first cam having a first side surface, a first bottom surface, and a first contact surface, the first contact surface contactable with the first rock wall; a second axle member spaced in a parallel configuration from the first axle member; and a second cam rotatable about the second axle member, the second cam having a second side surface, a second bottom surface, and a second contact surface, the second contact surface contactable with the second rock wall; and spring means associated with the first cam and the second cam for biasing the first cam and the second cam into the non-activated position with the first cam and the second cam being adjacent each other wherein the spring means is a first torsion spring about the first axle member and secured to the first cam and a second torsion spring about the second axle member and secured to the second cam; wherein in a non-activated position, the first axle member is closer to the first rock wall than the second axle member and the second axle member is closer to the second rock wall than the first axle member.
  • 2. The anchoring device of claim 1, and further comprising:a trigger mechanism for moving the first contact surface of the first cam and the second contact surface of the second cam in a general direction away from each other.
  • 3. The anchoring device of claim 2, and further comprising:a first wire connected between the trigger mechanism and the first cam; and a second wire connected between the trigger mechanism and the second cam.
  • 4. The anchoring device of claim 1, and further comprising:a center spacer positioned between the first axle member and the second axle member, the center spacer having a cable-receiving aperture.
  • 5. The anchoring device of claim 4, and further comprising:a cable secured within the cable-receiving aperture of the center spacer.
  • 6. The anchoring device of claim 5 and further comprising:a sheath about the cable.
  • 7. An anchoring device for use in a rock crevice, the anchoring device movable from a non-activated position to an activated position within the rock crevice, the rock crevice being defined by a first rock wall and an opposing second rock wall, the anchoring device comprising:a first axle member; a first cam rotatable about the first axle member, the first cam having a first side surface, a first bottom surface, and a first contact surface, the first contact surface contactable with the first rock wall; a second axle member soaced in a parallel configuration from the first axle member; and a second cam rotatable about the second axle member, the second cam having a second side surface, a second bottom surface, and a second contact surface, the second contact surface contactable with the second rock wall; a third cam rotatable about the first axle member, the third cam having a third side surface, a third bottom surface, and a third contact surface, the third contact surface contactable with the first rock wall; and a fourth cam rotatable about the second axle member, the fourth cam having a fourth side surface, a fourth bottom surface, and a fourth contact surface, the fourth contact surface contactable with the second rock wall; wherein in a non-activated position, the first axle member is closer to the first rock wall than the second axle member and the second axle member is closer to the second rock wall than the first axle member.
  • 8. A method for securing a climber to a rock face, the method comprising:positioning a first axle member adjacent a first rock wall; positioning a first cam in a first longitudinal rotatable position about the first axle member, the first cam having a first side surface, a first bottom surface, and a first contact surface, the first contact surface contactable with the first rock wall; positioning a second axle member in a spaced parallel configuration from the first axle member and adjacent a second rock wall; positioning a second cam in a second longitudinal rotatable about the second axle member, the second cam having a second side surface, a second bottom surface, and a second contact surface, the second contact surface contactable with the second rock wall; positioning a third cam in a third longitudinal rotatable position about the first axle member, the third cam having a third side surface, a third bottom surface, and a third contact surface, the third contact surface contactable with the first rock wall; and positioning a fourth cam in a fourth longitudinal rotatable position about the second axle member, the fourth cam having a fourth side surface, a fourth bottom surface, and a fourth contact surface, the fourth contact surface contactable with the second rock wall; wherein in a non-activated position, the first axle member is closer to the first rock wall than the second axle member and the second axle member is closer to the second rock wall than the first axle member and the first bottom surface of the first cam is free from overlap with the second bottom surface of the second cam.
Parent Case Info

The present application is a continuation of pending provisional patent application Ser. No. 60/303,600, filed on Jul. 5, 2001, entitled “Protection Device for Use in Rock Crevices and the Like During Rock Climbing Activities”.

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Number Name Date Kind
4184657 Jardine Jan 1980 A
4513641 Murray et al. Apr 1985 A
4565342 Grow Jan 1986 A
4575032 Taylor Mar 1986 A
4586686 Cason May 1986 A
4643377 Christianson Feb 1987 A
4645149 Lowe Feb 1987 A
4712754 Brodie Dec 1987 A
4781346 Banner Nov 1988 A
4832289 Waggoner May 1989 A
RE33104 Taylor Oct 1989 E
4923160 Waggoner May 1990 A
5617767 Nikoden Apr 1997 A
5860629 Reed Jan 1999 A
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Number Date Country
2158540 Nov 1985 GB
WO 9710877 Mar 1997 WO
Provisional Applications (1)
Number Date Country
60/303600 Jul 2001 US