The present invention relates to improvements in, or relating to, anchors for climbing and related activities.
In particular, though not solely, the present invention is directed to anchors for climbing, abseiling and similar vertical, or near vertical activities, where the anchor has variable geometry. Such variable geometry may be static, in that it is pre-set prior to anchoring in the anchoring surface, for example rock, or may be dynamic, in that it adapts to the anchoring surface as it is located in place, or moves or similar.
There is a need to provide an anchor in an anchoring surface, for example when access to a vertical or near vertical region is needed or desired. Typically a rope is connected from the anchor either directly or indirectly. A user can then access the area desired via the rope, or my use the rope to haul a piece of equipment up or down, or the anchor may be used to hold something in place.
Such a need may be for leisure, such as rock climbing and similar activities, or may be for maintenance or work, such as for access on a worksite of similar.
The sport of rock climbing has grown over time. This growth has been both in the numbers of people climbing, and the type of terrain climbed. Initially rock climbing involved what became known as aid climbing. This involved a person gaining purchase on, for example, a rock face using equipment like picks, hooks and similar, and pulling them selves up the rock face. The user would place protection periodically which connected to a rope which connected to them to catch them if they fell.
This method then evolved into what became known as freeclimbing or sport climbing. This involved the user only using their body, mainly their feet and hands, arms, to scale the vertical, or near vertical face, including overhands and similar. The climber wears shoes with soft rubber soles to help them grip the rock, and takes advantage of the natural contours of the rock to enable them to scale it. The climber ascends in a style referred to as leading. This involved placing protection as the climber advanced up the face. The protection would be passive or static. Static protection may for example be those referred to as pre-shaped blocks, variously called wires, hexes or blocks, that when fitted into any convenient cracks or crevices thereby create a mechanical anchor point. These rely on their carefully created shape to become a wedge in a rock crack or similar formation which would resist being pulled out. More often the protection is formed so that it one piece can fit in a variety of sized cracks, and comes in a range of sizes.
Another form of protection is dynamic, in contrast to the passive protection described above. This relies on multiple cams with an increasing diameter profile, such as those known as Friendsù, Cannalotsù, and FlexCamsù, otherwise referred to as Spring Loaded Caroming Devices (SLCDs). The cams can be ‘retracted_to make the appearance of the protection narrow so as to fit into a slot or crack, and then when released, expand initially under spring action to lock in place in the rock or similar. When placed under load the cams are forced to become wider and so therefore hold more strongly in the crack or slot.
These types of protection may be used for lead climbing as described, or as anchors for top roping, or abseiling.
One of the shortcomings of these types of protection, both static and dynamic, is that each can only cover a range of sizes. Therefore a climber must carry more equipment and therefore more weight.
In this specification where reference has been made to patent specifications, other external documents, or other sources of information, this is generally for the purpose of providing a context for discussing the features of the invention. Unless specifically stated otherwise, reference to such external documents is not to be construed as an admission that such documents, or such sources of information, in any jurisdiction, are prior art, or form part of the common general knowledge in the art.
It is an object of the present invention to provide an improved anchor for climbing and related activities, or to at least provide an anchor that covers a wider range, or to overcome the above shortcomings or address the above desiderata, or to at least provide the public with a useful choice.
In a first aspect the present invention consists in an anchor for rock or similar material, comprising or including,
A hinged base, which base consists of at least a pair of pivotally connected wings, the wings able to pivot about at least one longitudinal axis between, a first position in a closed state and a second position in an open state, the open state having a dimension between opposing parts of each wing that is greater than when in the closed state,
A locking mechanism to lock the wings in either the first position, or the second position,
A connecting portion connected to the hinged base and adapted to enable a load to be connected to the anchor, the connecting portion having a loading axis which is substantially parallel to the longitudinal axis,
Wherein the anchor can be set between either the first position, or the second position, and then anchored into the rock or similar material to enable a load to be connected thereto.
Preferably the locking mechanism can lock the wings in any position between the first position and the second position.
Preferably the anchor may be located in a crack or similar in the rock or similar material and then set from the first position to the second position prior to anchoring.
Preferably the anchor can be placed in the rock or similar material by a user only using one hand.
Preferably the locking mechanism can be de-activated to allow movement from the first position to the second position, by one hand only of a user.
Preferably the movement from the first position to the second position, when the locking mechanism is de-activated, consists of a relative rotation of the first wing to the second wing about the longitudinal axis, and then a relative sliding between the two wings along the longitudinal axis.
Preferably a first wing of the wing pair has a shaft extending therefrom, and a second wing of the pair had a complimentary bore to receive the shaft to provide a pivot there between to allow the movement about and along the longitudinal axis.
Preferably the first and second wings of the pair both have a bore therein to mount on, and rotate about a separate shaft.
Preferably the shaft and bore act as a guide for the relative rotation about the longitudinal axis, and the relative sliding of the two wings along longitudinal axis.
Preferably the locking mechanism includes co-operating portions, either with one on each of the first and second wings, or one co-operating portion (ie upper radial example) attached entirely to one wing, acting on the flat face of the other wing. The co-operating portions locking the wings in the first position when the locking mechanism is activated.
Preferably de-activation of the locking mechanism at least disengages the co-operating portions to allow the wings to move from the first position to the second position, and vice versa.
Preferably de-activation of the locking mechanism is achieved by a locking portion disengaging with the first wing, or second wing, to then allow the relative rotation and then relative sliding.
Preferably there is a locking handle, at or toward an end of the connecting portion distal from the hinged base, that acts on the locking portion, to allow de-activation and activation of the locking mechanism.
Preferably the locking handle takes the form of a pull loop, ring or similar.
Preferably the locking handle and locking portion move parallel to the longitudinal axis.
Preferably the locking handle has at least a tensile connection to the locking portion.
Preferably the co-operating portions on each wing can engage each other, after the relative rotation of each of the wings, by the relative sliding to lock the wings in the second position.
Preferably the co-operating portions on each wing can dis-engage each other, after the relative sliding to un-lock the wings from the second position, then relative rotation of each of the wings to the first position.
Preferably the two wings are biased to move from the first position to the second position when the locking mechanism is de-activated.
Preferably the biasing is by a primary biasing means for rotation, and a secondary biasing means for the relative sliding.
Preferably the primary biasing means is a torsion spring mounted about the longitudinal axis to cause the relative rotation.
Preferably the secondary biasing means is a linear spring acting parallel to the longitudinal axis to cause the relative sliding of the first wing and the second wing to then engage the co-operating portions.
Preferably the co-operating portions consist of at least one extension from the first wing orthogonal to the longitudinal axis, which at least one extension can be received into a complimentary recess in the second wing when in the first position.
Preferably there are two extensions, one from each of the first wing and the second wing that are received into complimentary recess, one each on the first wing and the second wing, when in the first position.
Preferably the at least two extensions engage each other on their facing surfaces when in the second position.
Preferably the wings, at least when in the first position, together form a trapezoidal shape when seen from the sides.
Preferably the wings taper inwards to form the trapezoidal shape from an end distal from the connecting portion.
Preferably the wings, when in the second position form an ‘X_configuration when seen along the longitudinal axis.
Preferably there is a base cover at the distal end, the base cover being engaged to the second wing.
Preferably the base cover is engaged to second wing at least by protrusions from the base cover into complimentary recesses in the second wing, or vice versa.
Preferably the torsion spring is located between the base cover and the first wing, such that the first wing rotates relative to the base cover when the locking mechanism is de-activated.
Preferably the locking portion is slidingly engaged with the second wing via retaining pins, and slidingly engaged with the first wing via teeth that are shorter than the retaining pins.
Preferably the locking portion when slid along the longitudinal axis, away from the first wing and the second wing, disengages the teeth from the first wing to allow it to then rotate, but remains engaged with the second wing via the retaining pins.
Preferably the secondary biasing means also acts against the locking portion and thus the locking handle.
Preferably the connecting portion is at least in part flexible.
Preferably the connecting portion is a single length of wire rope, or similar, that runs from the base portion to an end distal to the base portion which then terminates in a loop or similar to allow connection of the load.
Preferably the connecting portion is a loop of wire rope, or similar, that runs from the base portion, through one arm of a first wing, to an end distal to the base portion, and back again through a second arm of the first wing, so forming a loop or similar to allow connection of the load distal from the base portion.
Preferably the connecting portion is a loop whose ends terminate on each wing in a swaged or brazed connection.
Preferably there are apertures through the first wing, or the second wing and base portion, or both, which the connection portion can pass through and be connected to.
Preferably there are more than two wings.
An anchor as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 40 wherein there is a pivot for each wing all pivots parallel to the longitudinal axis.
Preferably there is one pivot per wing.
Preferably where there are multiple pivots there is at least part of the locking mechanism for each pivot.
Preferably there are some pivots that are not parallel to the longitudinal axis.
Preferably the locking mechanism involves a movable bar located on the base portion, which engages with complimentary features on a wing to allow pivoting when dis-engaged, and prevent pivoting when engaged.
Preferably the locking mechanism is one way that allows opening without de-activation of the locking system, but prevents closing without de-activation of the locking mechanism.
Preferably the one-way mechanism is a ratchet system, whereby the wing complimentary features and movable bar forms the one-way mechanism.
Preferably the locking mechanism is a sleeve that locates at least in part about the pivot axis, the sleeve having external engaging portions on its outer peripheral surface, and internal engaging portions on its inner peripheral surface, the sleeve locating in the base portion such that the external engaging portions engage with complimentary portions in the base portion, and the internal engaging portions engage with its respective wing when in a first locking position, the sleeve adapted to slide along its respective pivot axis to a second locking position, such that one, either or both, the external engaging portions, and the internal engaging portions are free of the base portion or respective wing, such that in the second position the wing is then allowed to pivot about the pivot axis.
Preferably the locking mechanism, whether a movable bar, or sleeve is moved to engage or disengage, or from the first position to the second position by a locking handle.
Preferably the locking mechanism allows movement of the wings one way, but not the other.
Preferably each wing consists of two lobes, each either side of the longitudinal axis.
Preferably the centre of the crossing of the two wings is on the longitudinal axis.
Preferably the wings and their lobes are of substantially the same size.
Preferably the lobes of one wing are smaller than the lobes of the other wing.
Preferably each wing has lobes of a first size and lobes of a second size which is of difference size to the first size.
Preferably the anchor has additional contouring on it to help engagement and retention with the rock or similar material.
Preferably the contouring is on the lobes.
Preferably the contouring takes the form of reliefs, protrusions or similar.
In another aspect the present invention consist in a method of providing an anchor for rock or similar material, comprising or including, the steps of,
Pivotally connecting a pair of wings about at least one longitudinal axis and allowing the pair of wings to move pivotally relative to each other between a first position in an open state and a second position in a closed state, where the open state has a dimension between opposing parts of each wing pair that is greater than when in the closed state,
Locking the pair of wings in either the first position or the second position,
Providing a connecting portion connected to the pair of wings which is adapted to connect to a load, the connecting portion having a loading axis which is substantially parallel to the longitudinal axis,
Wherein the method allows for the anchor to be set between either the first position, or the second position, and then anchored into the rock or similar material to enable a load to be connected thereto.
In another aspect the present invention consists in an anchor as described herein with reference to any one or more of the accompanying drawings.
In another aspect the present invention consists in a method of using an anchor as described herein with reference to any one or more of the accompanying drawings.
As used herein the term ‘and/or_means ‘and_or ‘or_, or both.
As used herein ‘(s)_following a noun means the plural and/or singular forms of the noun.
The term ‘comprising_as used in this specification means ‘consisting at least in part of_. When interpreting statements in this specification which include that term, the features, prefaced by that term in each statement, all need to be present, but other features can also be present. Related terms such as ‘comprise_and ‘comprised_are to be interpreted in the same manner.
It is intended that reference to a range of numbers disclosed herein (for example, 1 to 10) also incorporates reference to all rational numbers within that range (for example, 1, 1.1, 2, 3, 3.9, 4, 5, 6, 6.5, 7, 8, 9 and 10) and also any range of rational numbers within that range (for example, 2 to 8, 1.5 to 5.5 and 3.1 to 4.7).
The entire disclosures of all applications, patents and publications, cited above and below, if any, are hereby incorporated by reference.
This invention may also be said broadly to consist in the parts, elements and features referred to or indicated in the specification of the application, individually or collectively, and any or all combinations of any two or more of said parts, elements and features, and where specific integers are mentioned herein which have known equivalents in the art to which this invention relates, such known equivalents are deemed to be incorporated herein as if individually set forth.
Other aspects of the invention may become apparent from the following description which is given by way of example only and with reference to the accompanying drawings.
Preferred forms of the present invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawings in which;
Preferred embodiments will now be described with reference to
The anchor generally speaking can take a load in the Z axis, while allowing the user to vary the cross-sectional size of the anchor in the X-Y plane, orthogonal to the Z axis, by moving portions or wings of the anchor about one or more pivot axes parallel to the Z axis.
As shown in the embodiment in
The anchor 1 as shown in
In one form of the anchor 1, there is a shaft 13 centrally extending from one wing pair, from example the first wing 4A, in this case the lower wing, and concentric to the longitudinal axis 5. In the other wing of the pair, in this case the second wing 4B, which is the upper most wing as shown, has a complimentary bore 14 to receive the shaft 13. The result is a hinge that allows the first wing 4A and second wing 4B to rotate relative to each other about the longitudinal axis 5, and also allowing sliding along the longitudinal axis, thus allowing the movement from the first position 6 to the second position 7, which is described below.
In other forms still the shaft 13 may extend all the way from the base cover 21, whether separate or integral thereto.
A locking cap 35 is present which engages with the top of the shaft 13 when assembled to keep the resulting assembled anchor together. This could be achieved in others ways known in the art, but at the very least provides a purchase for the secondary biasing means, for example the linear spring, to act on.
The anchor 1 has a locking mechanism 9 that locks the wings 4 in either the first position 6 or second position 7. The locking mechanism has several parts, cooperating portions 18, locking portion 19, and locking handle 29 (shown in
In the embodiment shown in
To accommodate the co-operating portions 18A and 18B when in the first or closed state 6, there are complimentary recesses 28 in each wing 4A and 4B opposite the co-operating portion of the other wing. This way the cooperating portion 18A of wing 4A is received into the opposite recess 28B of wing 4B.
In the preferred embodiment shown in
As shown there are two pairs of first cooperating portions 18A and 18B on each wing 4, and therefore two recesses 28A and 28B, and second so-operating portions 18C and 18D and recesses 28C and 28D. However, there may more or less as needed for the design or physical constraints.
A primary bias, for example a torsional spring 20, is located in the preferred embodiment between the base cover 21 and the first wing 4A. As the base cover is engaged to the second wing 4B as described below, the effect is that the primary bias urges the first wing and the second wing to rotate apart, from the first position towards the second position.
A further part of the locking mechanism is a locking portion 19 as shown in
The locking portion 19, and in turn the movement of the first wing and second wing along the longitudinal axes toward each other, is achieved by a secondary biasing, for example a linear spring 25, acting along the shaft 13, such that the locking portion 19 remains engaged in the wing, preventing its rotation or sliding until the locking portion 19 is disengaged. In the preferred form the locking portion 19 is disengaged by a locking handle 29, as shown in
The engagement of the various co-operating portions will be described below with reference to
In
The first wing 4A and second wing 4B rotate about the longitudinal axis 5 and then slide along it. In doing so, then can move from the first position 6 to the second position 7. In some preferred embodiments they can also be locked in any position between the two positions, as will be described later.
The wings 4A and 4B can then slide relative to each other along the longitudinal axis, as shown in
This structure imparts the effective capability of the device, the co-operating portions 18A&B, their abutting faces, and the second butting faces of the wings act to distribute the load from the core to the wider body. This significantly increases the strength of the anchor 1.
In the second position 7, the wing pair when seen from along the longitudinal axis has the X shaped configuration, where a dimension 8, shown in
A further variation of the anchor 1 is shown in
A further variation of the anchor 1 is shown in
A form of the anchor 1, similar to that of
Two variations of locking mechanisms 9 will now be described. The first in
The first variation uses a movable bar 39, which engages, as shown in
A second variation of locking mechanism uses a sliding sleeve 41 shown in
The sleeve 41 is in sliding engagement and disengagement with the body 37 and in particular the external engaging portions 42 engage in base complimentary portions 46, as seen in
The sliding movement of the sleeve 41 is shown from the second locking position 49 which is fully locked position, shown in
The sleeve 41 is moved between the first and second positions by the pin 53 and its collar 50, the pin 53 is biased by the compression spring 25 shown in
In the unlocked (and locked) position, the internal engaging portions 44 remain on the pivot 38 and its wing sleeve complimentary portions 47, and the sleeve 41 is shown in the second locking position, 48 (
When the locking handle is released, the sleeve 41 then slides back up the pivot to the first locking position 49 as seen in
The sleeve 41 can be held in the locked position by a number of ways, for example by a spring 25 (
Activation of the collar 50 and sleeve 41 locking system (two way locking) requires deactivating the lock (via pulling on the pin 53
Again the locking mechanism may be of a one way form such that a user may move the wings out as desired without de-activation of the locking mechanism.
Again the wings may be biased by a primary bias, eg a torsional spring, to rotate from the closed to the open position or if desired from open to closed. Likewise a secondary bias, for example a linear spring 25, may hold the sleeve 41, or the movable bar 39 in the engaged position with the wings 4, and the locking handle 29 must act against this to disengage the locking mechanism to allow rotation of the wings 4 from the closed to the open position.
A further embodiment of the anchor 1 is shown in
Again as shown in
The anchor 1 as shown in
In one form of the anchor 1, there is a shaft 13 centrally extending from one wing pair, from example the first wing 4A, in this case the lower wing, and concentric to the longitudinal axis 5. In the other wing of the pair, in this case the second wing 4B, which is the upper most wing as shown, has a complimentary bore 14 to receive the shaft 13. The result is a hinge that allows the first wing 4A and second wing 4B to rotate relative to each other about the longitudinal axis 5, and also allowing sliding along the longitudinal axis, thus allowing the movement from the first position 6 to the second position 7, which is described below. These features for the embodiment shown in
In other forms still the shaft 13 may extend all the way from the base cover 21, whether separate or integral thereto. In later forms the shaft (13) is a 25 mm M2 bolt-pin threaded through the lower wing (4b) into the upper wing 4(a,) this keeps assembly together and anchors compression spring.
A locking cap 35 is present which engages with the top of the shaft 13 when assembled to keep the resulting assembled anchor together. The locking cap 35 secures the secondary biasing means, the two wings are interlocked by the base cover 21. This could be achieved in others ways known in the art, but at the very least provides a purchase for the secondary biasing means, for example the linear spring, to act on.
The anchor has a locking mechanism similar to the embodiment of
The wings are held in the open position by the mutual friction between them, about the shaft 13, and the cooperating portions 18A against 18B, and 18C against 18D. The wings are also prevented from further rotation in the opposite direction when in the second position by the engagement of their second butting faces 37. The linear biasing force of the compression spring (or applied downwards load) keeps the co-operating portions fully engaged.
To reverse the anchor 1 from the open state 7 to the closed state 6 the process is reversed, the wings are slid axially along the axis 5 until the co-operating portions 18 are clear of each other, and then the wings can be rotated about the axis 5 to the closed position.
A biasing means may also be present to urge the wings to slide mutually toward each other as described for the first embodiment.
Present also are engaging sections 50A and 50B on wings 4A and 4B respectively as shown on
A further set of variations of the anchor is shown in
Shown is the shaft 13, which in the variations shown in
The method of activation in the variations shown in
To reverse and close the anchor 1 the user simple does the reverse of the above, pulls wing 4A against the bias of the spring 25, and then when the cooperating portions 18 are disengaged the user can rotate the wing 4A as seen in
The cooperating portions 18 could be half portions 18A as shown in
The anchor 1 is also shown with contours 56 to aid in engagement and retention in the rock or similar material. These contours may be as shown as reliefs into the wings 4, but may take other forms as needed such as extensions, dimples, protrusions or similar depending on the rock or other material form and substance, or by contrast be completely smooth.
In
A further variation is shown in
The change in size of the wings 4 of substantially the same size in moving from the first position to the second position is shown in
In contrast in the variation shown in
Therefore an advantage is gained with varying wing 4 and lobe 55 sizes in the anchor 1 in that the anchor 1 will provide a greater number of sizes when in the closed and open positions.
In the closed state forces acting to compress the device :face to face—(short axis) are opposed by the mechanical/material properties of the two wings—acting as a wedge in a crack it is essentially solid, a wedge that cannot otherwise compress or move any further to close.
In the closed state along the long axis, depending on individual design either (1) a minimum of 3 contact points will act to distribute load across the entire body or, (2) load can be applied entirely to one half wing or nut if it is set in such a way, not a preferred technique unless using anchors with varying wing size or lobe size types.
In the open state the combined unit is locked in place by the interconnected co-operating portions or buttressing portions of the body preventing further rotation in either direction—upwards relative linear movement is required to unlock the device and this is opposed both by the locking spring and any external loads applied.
The various loading variations are shown in
In the closed state the anchor 1 is essentially solid, resistance to applied load 57 is primarily via material properties of the anchor wings, their interior wing faces 58 engaging and buttressing, and the co-operating portions that penetrate from one wing into another.
In the open state as shown in
In
When the connecting portion 10 is a wire or similar it may be stiff enough of itself to hold the anchor and allow location. However in lighter anchors 1 the connecting portion 10 when a wire of similar may not be stiff enough. In this case there may be sleeves or sheaths added about the wire immediately below the anchor 1. These improve performance by giving the hand something rigid to brace against while moving the anchor 11 between open and closed states, especially with the smaller wires.
The foregoing description of the invention includes preferred forms thereof. Modifications may be made thereto without departing from the scope of the invention.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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730516 | Mar 2017 | NZ | national |
732148 | May 2017 | NZ | national |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
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PCT/NZ2018/050038 | 3/28/2018 | WO | 00 |
Publishing Document | Publishing Date | Country | Kind |
---|---|---|---|
WO2018/182431 | 10/4/2018 | WO | A |
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