The subject of the present invention is novel compositions in the form of a dispersion of a gelled phase, comprising at least one diol consisting of three to eight carbon atoms, in an oily phase, and also the uses thereof in cosmetics, in pharmaceuticals, in the textile industry, and in the paper industry.
Cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical and pharmaceutical compositions can be in the form of aqueous solutions, of emulsions and of powders.
An emulsion is an initially heterogeneous mixture of two liquid substances which are immiscible with one another, the two substances being called “phases”. Said mixture becomes macroscopically homogeneous through an external operation such as, for example, mechanical stirring with a suitable speed and mobile, or the addition of an amphiphilic substance called a surfactant. When presented in macroscopically homogeneous form, the mixture consists of a discontinuous phase, dispersed in the other phase which is called “continuous phase”.
Emulsions are particularly preferred forms since they make it possible to convey both the water-soluble substances and liposoluble substances that are frequently used in these applications. A distinction is made between oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions in which the continuous phase consists of a hydrophilic phase, generally an aqueous phase, and the dispersed phase consists of a lipophilic fatty phase, and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions in which the continuous phase consists of a lipophilic fatty phase and the dispersed phase consists of a hydrophilic phase, generally an aqueous phase.
Oil-in-water emulsions are intrinsically more stable than water-in-oil emulsions; water-in-oil emulsions nevertheless have a number of advantages. Specifically, the separation between the water droplets reduces the possibility of the proliferation of microorganisms. Furthermore, the use of preserving agents, which is essential when the continuous phase is aqueous, can be avoided or reduced when the continuous phase is fatty. Water-in-oil emulsions are far less sensitive to low temperature than oil-in-water emulsions. Lastly, for topical applications for cosmetic use, the European patent application published under the number EP 1961455 A1 discloses that an oily continuous phase makes it possible to cover the skin after application of the water-in-oil emulsion, which protects the skin from dehydration and against external substances by forming a persistent oily film, thus making it possible to treat dry skin.
The solutions proposed in the prior art for preparing dermatological emulsions which are in the water-in-oil form are not satisfactory because either the silicone derivatives employed are volatile and may have harmful effects with regard to the environment and the users, or the silicone derivatives employed are not very volatile and then they impart unpleasant sensorial properties after topical application, such as for example sticky sensations on the skin.
The European patent application published under the number EP 1 459 801 A2 and the international patent application published under the number WO 2014/167200A1 disclose the preparation of water-in-oil emulsions comprising, per 100% of their weights, from 60% to 98% by weight of aqueous phase gelled by virtue of the presence therein of a crosslinked polyelectrolyte, making it possible to partially solve the technical problem. In fact, the water-in-oil emulsions obtained are characterized by better persistence when applied to the skin, making it possible to withstand sweat, bathing water or rain water. However, in a persistent improvement approach, research is directed toward the preparation of galenic forms even more resistant to water and to sweat, also making it possible to convey several cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients which are either partially insoluble or unstable in an aqueous medium.
This is why the inventors have sought to develop new emulsions in which the continuous phase is oily and the dispersed phase is polar but non-aqueous, free of added water, which do not exhibit the drawbacks described above, and which remain homogeneous at ambient temperature (greater than or equal to 20° C. and less than or equal to 25° C.) and at 45° C. after storage for at least three months.
A solution of the present invention is a composition (E1) for topical use comprising a gelled phase (A1) free of added water and dispersed in a continuous phase (A2), with:
Preferably, said composition (E1) comprises, per 100% of its weight:
The emulsifying surfactant (S1) is preferably selected from the elements of the group consisting of alkylpolyglycoside compositions and compositions of alkylpolyglycosides and of fatty alcohols, and the emulsifying surfactant (S2) is preferably selected from the elements of the group consisting of polyglycerol esters, alkoxylated polyglycerol esters, polyglycol polyhydroxystearates, polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates and alkoxylated polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates.
The expression “for topical use” used in the definition of the composition (E1) according to the invention, which is in the form of a dispersion of a gelled phase (A1) in a continuous phase (A2) and as defined above, means that said composition (E1) is employed by application to the skin, the hair, the scalp or the lips, whether it is a direct application in the case of a cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition or an indirect application, for example in the case of a body hygiene product in the form of a textile or paper wipe or of health products intended to be in contact with the skin or the lips.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “gelled phase (A1)” denotes a homogeneous phase characterized in that the dynamic viscosity of said phase (A1), measured at a temperature of 20° C. and using a Brookfield LVT viscometer at a speed of 6 revolutions/minute, is greater than or equal to 1000 mPa·s and less than or equal to 100 000 mPa·s, more particularly greater than or equal to 10 000 mPa·s and less than or equal to 100 000 mPa·s.
Depending on the case, the composition according to the invention can exhibit one or more of the following characteristics:
R1—O-(G)x-H (VII)
wherein x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the glucosyl or α,β-D-glucopyranosyl radical, obtained from the removal of the hemiacetal hydroxyl group from α,β-D-glucopyranose, and R1 represents a radical chosen from the elements of the group consisting of the radicals n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and n-behenyl, said composition (C1) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by formulae (VII1), (VII2), (VII3), (VII4) and (VII5):
R1—O-(G)1-H (VII1)
R1—O-(G)2-H (VII2)
R1—O-(G)3-H (VII3)
R1—O-(G)4-H (VII4)
R1—O-(G)5-H (VII5),
in the respective molar proportions a1, a2, a3, a4 and a5, such that the sum a1+a2+a3+a4+a5 is equal to 1 and that the sum a1+2a2+3a3+4a4+5a5 is equal to x;
R1—O-(G)x-H (VII),
wherein x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the glucosyl or α,β-D-glucopyranosyl radical, obtained from the removal of the hemiacetal hydroxyl group from α,β-D-glucopyranose, and R1 represents a radical chosen from the elements of the group consisting of the radicals n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and n-behenyl, said composition consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by formulae (VII1), (VII2), (VII3), (VII4) and (VII5):
R1-O-(G)1-H (VII1)
R1-O-(G)2-H (VII2)
R1-O-(G)3-H (VII3)
R1-O-(G)4-H (VII4)
R1-O-(G)5-H (VII5)
in the respective molar proportions a1, a2, a3, a4 and a5, such that the sum a1+a2+a3+a4+a5 is equal to 1 and that the sum a1+2a2+3a3+4a4+5a5 is equal to x; and
R″1—OH (VIII),
wherein R″1 represents a radical chosen from the elements of the group consisting of the radicals n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and n-behenyl, where R″1 may be identical to or different from R1;
R1—O-(G)x-H (IX)
wherein x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the xylose residue and R1 represents the 2-octyldodecyl radical, said composition (C′1) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulae (IX1), (IX2), (IX3), (IX4) and (IX5):
R1—O-(G)1-H (IX1)
R1—O-(G)2-H (IX2)
R1—O-(G)3-H (IX3)
R1—O-(G)4-H (IX4)
R1—O-(G)5-H (IX5)
in the respective molar proportions a1, a2, a3, a4 and a5, such that the sum a1+a2+a3+a4+a5 is equal to 1 and that the sum a1+2a2+3a3+4a4+5a5 is equal to x;
R1—O-(G)x-H (X)
wherein x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the xylose residue and R1 represents the 2-octyldodecyl radical, said composition consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by formulae (X1), (X2), (X3), (X4) and (X5):
R1—O-(G)1-H (X1)
R1—O-(G)2-H (X2)
R1—O-(G)3-H (X3)
R1—O-(G)4-H (X4)
R1—O-(G)5-H (X5)
in the respective molar proportions a1, a2, a3, a4 and a5, such that the sum a1+a2+a3+a4+a5 is equal to 1 and that the sum a1+2a2+3a3+4a4+5a5 is equal to x; and
R′″1—OH (XI),
wherein R′″1 represents the 2-octyldodecyl radical;
wherein y2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50, R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or an ethyl radical, and Z2 represents a radical of formula (XIII):
wherein y′2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10, and Z′2 represents a radical of formula (XIII) as defined above, where Z′2 may be identical to or different from Z2, or a hydrogen atom;
Z1—O—Z2 (II),
wherein Z1 and Z2, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical including from 5 to 18 carbon atoms, for example dioctyl ether, didecyl ether, didodecyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, dihexadecyl ether, (1,3-dimethylbutyl) tetradecyl ether, (1,3-dimethylbutyl) hexadecyl ether, bis(1,3-dimethylbutyl) ether or dihexyl ether.
R′1—(C═O)—O—R′2 (III),
wherein R′1—(C═O) represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acyl radical comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and R′2 represents, independently of R′1, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, for example methyl laurate, ethyl laurate, propyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, butyl laurate, 2-butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, methyl cocoate, ethyl cocoate, propyl cocoate, isopropyl cocoate, butyl cocoate, 2-butyl cocoate, hexyl cocoate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, 2-butyl myristate, hexyl myristate, octyl myristate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, 2-butyl palmitate, hexyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, methyl oleate, ethyl oleate, propyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, butyl oleate, 2-butyl oleate, hexyl oleate, octyl oleate, methyl stearate, ethyl stearate, propyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, 2-butyl stearate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, methyl isostearate, ethyl isostearate, propyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, 2-butyl isostearate, hexyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate;
R′3—(C═O)—O—CH2—CH(OH)—CH2—O—(C═O)—R′4 (IV)
R′5—(C═O)—O—CH2—CH[O—(C═O)—R′6]—CH2—OH (V),
formulae (IV) and (V) wherein R′3—(C═O), R′4—(C═O), R′5—(C═O) and R′6—(C═O), which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acyl group including from 8 to 24 carbon atoms;
R′7—(C═O)—O—CH2—CH[O—(C═O)—R″8]—CH2—O—(C═O)—R″9 (VI),
wherein R′7—(C═O), R′8—(C═O) and R′9—(C═O), which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acyl group including from 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from the elements of the group consisting of castor oil, liquid paraffins, cocoyl caprylate/caprate, isopropyl myristate and capric/caprylic triglyceride.
The fatty phase (A2) optionally comprises wax. The latter is more particularly chosen from beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; plant waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids that are solid at ambient temperature; glycerides that are solid at ambient temperature.
In the definition of composition (E1) for topical use that is a subject of the present invention, the term “crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1)” denotes a non-linear crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte, which is in the form of a three-dimensional network which is insoluble in water but swellable in water and which leads to the production of a chemical gel.
Preferably, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1) comprises, per 100 mol %:
(a1)—a proportion of greater than or equal to 25 mol % and less than or equal to 100 mol % of monomer units derived from 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid in free acid or partially or totally salified form;
(a2)—optionally, a proportion of greater than 0 mol % and less than or equal to 75 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of acrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide; methacrylamide or N-isopropylacrylamide;
(a3)—optionally, a proportion of greater than 0 mol % and less than or equal to 20 mol %, more particularly greater than 0 mol % and less than or equal to 15 mol %, more particularly still greater than or equal to 0 mol % and less than or equal to 10 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) methacrylate and vinylpyrrolidone;
(a4)—optionally, a proportion of greater than 0 mol % and less than or equal to 75 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 2-carboxyethylacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and 3-methyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]butanoic acid, the carboxylic function of said monomers being in free acid, partially salified or totally salified form;
(a5)—optionally, a proportion of greater than 0 mol % and less than or equal to 5 mol % of at least one monomer of formula (M1):
wherein R represents a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from eight to twenty carbon atoms and n represents an integer of greater than or equal to zero and of less than or equal to twenty;
(a6)—a proportion of greater than 0 mol % and of less than or equal to 1 mol % of monomer units resulting from at least one diethylenic or polyethylenic crosslinking monomer (AR); the sum of said molar proportions as monomer units according to a1), a2), a3), a4), a5) and a6) being equal to 100 mol %.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “salified” means that the acid function present in a monomer is in an anionic form associated in salt form with a cation, notably alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium cations, or such as cations of nitrogenous bases such as the ammonium salt, the lysine salt or the monoethanolamine salt (HOCH2—CH2—NH4+). They are preferably sodium or ammonium salts.
At least one diethylenic or polyethylenic crosslinking monomer (AR) in particular denotes, in the definition of said crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1), a monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of methylenebis(acrylamide), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallylurea, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, diallyloxyacetic acid or one of its salts, such as sodium diallyloxyacetate, or a mixture of these compounds; and more particularly a monomer chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate or methylenebis(acrylamide) or a mixture of these compounds.
According to another particular aspect of the present invention, the composition (E1) for topical use is characterized in that said crosslinking monomer (AR) as defined above is used in a molar proportion of less than or equal to 0.5%, more particularly less than or equal to 0.25% and most particularly less than or equal to 0.1%; it is more particularly greater than or equal to 0.005 mol %.
The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1) used in the composition (E1) for topical use which is a subject of the present invention may also comprise various additives such as complexing agents, transfer agents or chain-limiting agents.
The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1) used in the composition (E1) for topical use which is a subject of the present invention may be prepared by performing a radical polymerization process known to those skilled in the art, for instance processes of solution polymerization, suspension polymerization, inverse suspension polymerization, emulsion polymerization, inverse emulsion polymerization or polymerization in solvent medium followed by a step of precipitation of the polymer formed.
According to a more particular aspect, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1) used in the composition (E1) for topical use which is a subject of the present invention may be prepared by performing a process of polymerization in solvent medium followed by a step of precipitation of the polymer formed, or of inverse emulsion polymerization optionally followed by a step of concentration and/or atomization.
According to a more particular aspect, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1) used in the composition (E1) for topical use which is a subject of the present invention may be prepared according to one of the processes described above and may involve the use of transfer agents or chain-limiting agents. The transfer agents or chain-limiting agents are more particularly chosen from the group consisting of sodium hypophosphite, alcohols of low molecular weight, for example methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, isopropanol or butanol, thiols, for example 2-mercaptoethanol, transfer agents comprising a sulfate function, for example sodium methallylsulfonate, or mixtures of said transfer agents. The transfer or chain-limiting agents are more particularly used in molar proportions, expressed with respect to the total number of moles of monomers employed, of 0.001 mol % to 1 mol %, more particularly of 0.001 mol % to 0.5 mol % and very particularly of 0.001 mol % to 0.1 mol %.
According to another particular aspect of the present invention, said crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (AP1) is an element of the group consisting of a homopolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in sodium salt or ammonium salt form, crosslinked with triallylamine and/or methylenebis(acrylamide); a copolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in sodium salt or ammonium salt form and of acrylic acid partially or totally salified in sodium salt or ammonium salt form, crosslinked with triallylamine and/or methylenebis(acrylamide); a copolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) partially or totally salified in sodium salt or ammonium salt form and of acrylic acid (δ) partially or totally salified in sodium salt form in a molar ratio (γ)/(δ) of greater than or equal to 30/70 and less than or equal to 90/10, crosslinked with triallylamine and/or methylenebis(acrylamide); a copolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) partially or totally salified in sodium salt form, and of acrylic acid (δ) partially or totally salified in sodium salt form in a molar ratio (γ)/(δ) of greater than or equal to 40/60 and less than or equal to 90/10, crosslinked with triallylamine and/or methylenebis(acrylamide); a copolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) partially or totally salified in sodium salt form, and of acrylamide (ε) in a molar ratio (γ)/(ε) of greater than or equal to 30/70 and less than or equal to 90/10, crosslinked with triallylamine and/or methylenebis(acrylamide); a copolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) partially or totally salified in sodium salt form, and of hydroxyethyl acrylate (ζ) in a molar ratio (γ)/(ζ) of greater than or equal to 30/70 and less than or equal to 90/10, crosslinked with triallylamine and/or methylenebis(acrylamide); a terpolymer crosslinked with triallylamine and/or methylenebis(acrylamide), of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in sodium salt or ammonium salt form, of acrylamide and of acrylic acid partially or totally salified in sodium salt or ammonium salt form; a terpolymer crosslinked with triallylamine and/or methylenebis(acrylamide), of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in sodium salt or ammonium salt form in a molar proportion of greater than or equal to 30% and less than or equal to 45%, of acrylamide in a molar proportion of greater than or equal to 45% and less than or equal to 68% and of acrylic acid partially or totally salified in sodium salt or ammonium salt form in a molar proportion of greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 10%; a terpolymer crosslinked with triallylamine and/or methylenebis(acrylamide), of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in sodium salt or ammonium salt form in a molar proportion of greater than or equal to 30% and less than or equal to 45%, of acrylamide in a molar proportion of greater than or equal to 47% and less than or equal to 68% and of acrylic acid partially or totally salified in sodium salt or ammonium salt form in a molar proportion of greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 8%; a terpolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate and/or triallylamine and/or methylenebis(acrylamide), of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in sodium salt or ammonium salt form in a molar proportion of greater than or equal to 60% and less than or equal to 80%, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide in a molar proportion of greater than or equal to 15% and less than or equal to 39.5% and of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate in a molar proportion of greater than or equal to 0.5% and less than or equal to 5%; a tetrapolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate and/or triallylamine and/or methylenebis(acrylamide), of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in sodium salt or ammonium salt form in a molar proportion of greater than or equal to 60% and less than or equal to 80%, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide in a molar proportion of greater than or equal to 15% and less than or equal to 39%, of lauroyl methacrylate in a molar proportion of greater than or equal to 0.5% and less than or equal to 2.5%, and of stearoyl methacrylate in a molar proportion of greater than or equal to 0.5% and less than or equal to 2.5%.
Regarding the emulsifying surfactant, in formula (VII) as defined above, the group R1-O— is linked to G via the anomeric carbon of the saccharide residue, so as to form an acetal function.
According to one particular aspect, in the definition of formula (VII) x, or mean degree of polymerization, represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0 and more particularly still greater than or equal to 1.25 and less than or equal to 2.0.
According to another particular aspect, the combination of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S1) and at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2) comprises, per 100% of its weight:
R1—O-(G)x-H (VII)
wherein x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the glucosyl or α,β-D-glucopyranosyl radical, obtained from the removal of the hemiacetal hydroxyl group from α,β-D-glucopyranose, and R1 represents a radical chosen from the elements of the group consisting of the radicals n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and n-behenyl, said composition consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by formulae (VII1), (VII2), (VII3), (VII4) and (VII5):
R1—O-(G)1-H (VII1)
R1—O-(G)2-H (VII2)
R1—O-(G)3-H (VII3)
R1—O-(G)4-H (VII4)
R1—O-(G)5-H (VII5)
in the respective molar proportions a1, a2, a3, a4 and a5 such that:
R″1—OH (IX),
wherein R″1 represents a radical chosen from the elements of the group consisting of the radicals n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and n-behenyl, where R″1 may be identical to or different from R1;
wherein y2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50, R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or an ethyl radical, and Z2 represents a radical of formula (XIII):
wherein y′2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10, and Z′2 represents a radical of formula (XIII) as defined above, where Z2′ may be identical to or different from Z2, or a hydrogen atom.
Regarding the emulsifying surfactant, in formula (VIII) as defined above, the group R1-O— is linked to G via the anomeric carbon of the saccharide residue, so as to form an acetal function.
According to one particular aspect, in the definition of formula (VIII) x, or mean degree of polymerization, represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0 and more particularly still greater than or equal to 1.25 and less than or equal to 2.0.
According to another particular aspect, the combination of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S1) and at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2) comprises, per 100% of its weight:
R1—O-(G)x-H (X)
wherein x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the xylose residue and R1 represents the 2-octyldodecyl radical, said composition consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by formulae (X1), (X2), (X3), (X4) and (X5):
R1—O-(G)1-H (X1)
R1—O-(G)2-H (X2)
R1—O-(G)3-H (X3)
R1—O-(G)4-H (X4)
R1—O-(G)5-H (X5)
in the respective molar proportions a1, a2, a3, a4 and a5 such that:
R′″1—OH (XI),
wherein R′″1 represents the 2-octyldodecyl radical;
wherein y2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50, R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or an ethyl radical, and Z2 represents a radical of formula (XIII):
wherein y′2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10, and Z′2 represents a radical of formula (XIII) as defined above, where Z2′ may be identical to or different from Z2, or a hydrogen atom.
According to another particular aspect, the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention has a dynamic viscosity, measured at a temperature of 20° C. using a Brookfield LVT viscometer at a speed of 6 rpm, greater than or equal to 500 mPa·s and less than or equal to 40 000 mPa·s.
Regarding the auxiliary compounds, among the foaming and/or detergent anionic surfactants that may be combined with the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of alkali metal salts, alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium salts, amine salts or amino alcohol salts of alkyl ether sulfates, of alkyl sulfates, of alkylamido ether sulfates, of alkylaryl polyether sulfates, of monoglyceride sulfates, of alpha-olefin sulfonates, of paraffin sulfonates, of alkyl phosphates, of alkyl ether phosphates, of alkyl sulfonates, of alkylamide sulfonates, of alkylaryl sulfonates, of alkyl carboxylates, of alkyl sulfosuccinates, of alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, of alkylamide sulfosuccinates, of alkyl sulfoacetates, of alkyl sarcosinates, of acyl isethionates, of N-acyl taurates, of acyl lactylates, of N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, of N-acylated derivatives of peptides, of N-acylated derivatives of proteins, or of fatty acids.
Among the foaming and/or detergent amphoteric surfactants optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.
Among the foaming and/or detergent cationic surfactants optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made particularly of quaternary ammonium derivatives.
Among the foaming and/or detergent nonionic surfactants optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of alkylpolyglycosides containing a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical and comprising from 8 to 12 carbon atoms; castor oil derivatives, polysorbates, coconut kernel amides and N-alkylamines.
As examples of thickening and/or gelling surfactants optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of:
Among the organic sunscreens optionally present in composition (E1) for topical use which is a subject of the present invention, mention may be made of:
The examples that follow illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it.
Three emulsions according to the invention, denoted (F1) to (F3), and four comparative emulsions, denoted (F′1) to (F′4), the proportions by weight of the constituents of which are recorded in table 1 below, the contents by weight of the polyelectrolytes being indicated as a percentage of polymeric solids, are prepared by performing the following process.
The constituents of the fatty phase are introduced successively into a beaker, mixed and brought to a temperature of 20° C. after an 80° C. heating step; the mixing is performed using a mechanical stirrer equipped with a propeller-type stirring spindle at a speed of 100 rpm.
The constituents of the dispersed phase are mixed at ambient temperature in a beaker using a mechanical stirrer at a speed of 2000 rpm and the thickener is then added gradually. The stirring is maintained for a duration which makes it possible to obtain a phase which is in the form of a homogeneous gel. The fatty phase is added in one go to the gel at ambient temperature and at a moderate stirring speed (75 to 300 rpm) using a stirrer equipped with an anchor-type spindle. This stirring is then maintained for 10 minutes and no cooling step is necessary.
(1) Lanol ™ 2681, or Coco-Caprylate/Caprate.
(2)Sepineo ™ SE 68 is a mixture comprising, per 100% of its weight, from 78% to 85% by weight of a mixture of n-hexadecanol and n-octadecanol, and from 15% to 22% by weight of a mixture of n-hexadecyl glucoside with a mean degree of polymerization of 1.20 and n-octadecyl glucoside with a mean degree of polymerization of 1.20, used as emulsifying agent.
(3) Sepicide ™ HB is a mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben and n-propylparaben, used as a preserving agent.
(4)Simaline ™ WO, or PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, is an emulsifying surfactant.
(5)Sepineo ™ P600 is a self-invertible inverse latex comprising, per 100% of its weight, between 30% and 40% by weight of a crosslinked copolymer of acrylamide and of sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate, used as a thickening agent.
(6)Montane ™ 80 is a composition comprising sorbitan monooleate, used as water-in-oil type emulsifying agent.
(7)PEG-400 is a polyethylene glycol with a molecular weight of approximately 400 g · mol−1.
(8)Montanov ™ 202 is a mixture comprising, per 100% of its weight, from 80% to 90% by weight of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and from 10% to 20% by weight of arachidyl polyglucosides with an average degree of polymerization of 1.20, used as an emulsifying agent.
(9)Fluidanov ™ 20X is a mixture comprising, per 100% of its weight, from 70% to 90% by weight of 2-octyl-1-dodecanol and from 10% to 30% by weight of 2-octyl-1-dodecanyl polyxyloside.
(*)minimum weight proportion of water that could be added to the respective comparative emulsions (F2), (F′3), (F′4) without either obtaining gelation preventing stirring of said emulsion, or obtaining an emulsion exhibiting a heterogeneous appearance that persists despite the stirring phases of the preparation process, or a form for which the dispersed phase is the fatty phase.
2 Demonstration of the Properties of Emulsions (F1) to (F3) According to the Invention and of Comparative Emulsions (F′1) to (F′4)
2.1 Characterization of the Appearance and Viscosity of Emulsions (F1) to (F3) According to the Invention and of Comparative Emulsions (F′1) to (F′4)
The emulsions (F1) to (F3) and (F′1) to (F′4) obtained according to the process described above are then stored in an insulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 25° C. for 3 months. After the conclusion of this period of three months, the appearance (APP) of each emulsion prepared is observed and the dynamic viscosity (μ) of each emulsion is measured (in mPas) by means of a viscometer at 25° C. (Brookfield LVT, speed 6).
An aliquot of these same emulsions (F1) to (F3) and (F′1) to (F′4) obtained according to the process described above is also stored in an insulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 45° C. for three months. After the conclusion of this period of three months, the appearance (APP) of each emulsion prepared is observed and the dynamic viscosity (μ) of each emulsion is measured (in mPas) by means of a viscometer at 25° C. (Brookfield LVT, speed 6).
2.2 Characterization of the Direction of the Emulsions (F1) to (F3) According to the Invention and of the Comparative Emulsions (F′1) to (F′3)
The conductivity (σ) of the emulsions (F1) to (F3) according to the invention and of the emulsions (F′1) to (F′3) is measured at 25° C., after a period of storage of said emulsions of one day in an insulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 25° C., by means of an LF 196™ brand conductivity meter from the company WTW equipped with a TetraCon™ 96 electrode. For a given emulsion, (σ)≤0.5 μS·cm−1, the emulsion is considered to be non-conductive and consequently the external phase is not the phase based on 1,2-propanediol or on glycerol or on PEG-400, but the oily phase.
Indeed, the conductivity, measured at 25° C., of 1,2-propanediol is equal to 4400 μS·cm−1, that of glycerol is 6400 μS·cm−1.
For a given emulsion, (σ)>0.5 μS·cm−1, the emulsion is considered to be conductive and consequently the external phase is considered not to be the oily phase but the glycolic phase. The term “glycolic phase” means the phase based on 1,2-propanediol or on glycerol or on PEG-400.
This same measurement of the conductivity of the emulsions (F1) to (F3) according to the invention and of the comparative emulsions (F′1) to (F′3) is measured at 25° C. after three months at 25° C., and after three months at 45° C.
2.3 Results Obtained for the Emulsions (F1) to (F3) According to the Invention and for the Comparative Emulsions (F′1) to (F′3)
The evaluation methods described in sections 2.1 and 2.2 were applied to the emulsions (F1) to (F3) according to the invention and to the comparative emulsions (F′1) to (F′3). The results obtained are recorded in table 2 below.
The emulsions (F1) to (F3) according to the invention are therefore characterized by:
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
---|---|---|---|
1909118 | Aug 2019 | FR | national |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/FR2020/051431 | 8/4/2020 | WO |