Patent Application
20140120050
The present invention generally relates to hair treatment agents containing selected cationic alkyloligoglucosides, alkyloligoglucosides, selected ester oils, and further quaternary ammonium compounds as care-providing substances.
A need exists to further improve hair care products and to impart further advantageous properties to them. In particular, a care-providing complex should be made available that ideally can be used even in conjunction with oxidizing agents and surfactant agents.
Environmental influences and oxidative hair treatments often result in degraded combability properties of the dry and the wet hair. In addition, the shine and moisture balance are disadvantageously influenced by the fact that the external structure of the keratinic fibers has been attacked. A further consequence of repeated treatments of keratinic fibers using surfactant agents and/or oxidizing agents is considerable grease re-absorption by the keratinic fibers, as well as a strong tendency to increased formation of scalp dandruff.
It is therefore an object of the present invention to decrease the side-effects of environmentally related influences and of oxidative as well as surfactant hair treatments, preferably already during the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment but also after the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment, without degrading the efficiency of oxidative or surfactant cosmetic substance, in particular with regard to color intensity, color fidelity, lightening performance and/or waving effect, and to prevent grease re-absorption by the keratinic fibers and increased formation of scalp dandruff. In addition, the oxidative treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, is also to be combined in the form of a 2-in-1 product, in one application step, with the application of effective fiber protection from environmental influences, for example UV protection.
Furthermore, other desirable features and characteristics of the present invention will become apparent from the subsequent detailed description of the invention and the appended claims, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings and this background of the invention.
A hair treatment agent includes, in a suitable cosmetic carrier, based in each case on the total composition of the agent: at least one cationic alkyloligoglucoside, in a total quantity from 0.01 to 10.0 wt %, and at least one alkyl or alkenyloligoglucoside, in a total quantity from 0.01 to 10.0 wt %, at least one ester oil, in a total quantity from 0.01 to 10.0 wt %, and at least one quaternary ammonium compound, in a total quantity from 0.1 to 10.0 wt %, selected from at least one of the groups of esterquats; and/or quaternary imidazolines of formula I,
wherein residues R, mutually independently in each case, denote a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon residue having a chain length from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and A denotes a physiologically acceptable anion; and/or cetrimonium chloride and/or behentrimonium chloride; and/or amines and/or cationized amines; and/or poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium) compounds; and/or quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquatemium-10 and/or Polyquaternium-24 and/or Polyquaternium-67 and/or Polyquaternium-72; and/or cationized honey; and/or cationic guar derivatives; and/or chitosan; and/or polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and copolymers thereof with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid; and/or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate; and/or vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers; and/or quaternized polyvinyl alcohol; and/or Polyquaternium-2; and/or Polyquaternium-7; and/or Polyquatemium-16; and/or Polyquaternium-17; and/or Polyquaternium-18; and/or Polyquaternium-27; and/or Polyquaternium-69; and/or Polyquaternium-74.
The following detailed description of the invention is merely exemplary in nature and is not intended to limit the invention or the application and uses of the invention. Furthermore, there is no intention to be bound by any theory presented in the preceding background of the invention or the following detailed description of the invention.
It has now been found, surprisingly, that the object can be achieved to an outstanding extent by means of a hair treatment agent that includes an active substance complex containing as essential ingredients at least one cationic alkyloligoglucoside, at least one alkyloligoglucoside, at least one selected ester oil, and at least one further quaternary ammonium compound.
Hair treatment agents containing this active substance complex result in improved avivage, improved shine, improved moisture balance, and protection from oxidative damage, and in prevention of grease re-absorption by the keratinic fibers and in an increase in the washing fastness of colored keratinic fibers, in particular of human hair, and in a time delay in the formation of dandruff.
“Hair treatment agents” for purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair packs, hair tonics, hair coloring shampoos, or combinations thereof. Compositions that condition the hair, such as hair rinses, hair treatments, hair packs, hair oils and lotions, both as leave-on products, i.e. ones that remain on the hair until the hair is next washed, and as rinse-off products, i.e. products to be rinsed off again a few seconds to a few hours after utilization, are to be understood in particular as hair treatment agents according to the present invention.
“Combability” is understood according to the present invention as both the combability of the wet fibers and the combability of the dry fibers.
“Softness” is defined as the tactility of an assemblage of fibers, in which context one skilled in the art sensorially feels and evaluates the “fullness” and “suppleness” parameters of the assemblage.
“Shapability” is understood as the ability to impart a change in shape to an assemblage of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hairs. The term “stylability” is also used in hair cosmetics.
“Restructuring” is to be understood for purposes of the invention as a reduction in the damage to keratinic fibers resulting from a wide variety of influences. Restoration of natural strength plays an essential role here, for example. Restructured fibers are notable for improved shine, improved softness, and easier combability. In addition, they exhibit improved strength and elasticity. Successful restructuring can moreover be demonstrated physically as an increase in melting point as compared with the damaged fiber. The higher the melting point of the hair, the stronger the structure of the fiber.
“Washing fastness” is to be understood for purposes of the invention as maintenance of the original coloring, in terms of shade and/or intensity, when the keratinic fiber is exposed to the repeated influence of aqueous agents, in particular surfactant-containing agents such as shampoos.
The compositions according to the present invention containing the active substance complex according to the present invention are further notable for an appreciably improved state of the keratinic fibers in terms of the moisture balance of the keratinic fibers. The active substance complex according to the present invention furthermore results in appreciable protection of the keratinic fibers from heat effects, for example when blow-drying keratinic fibers. Protection of the surface of keratinic fibers from heat effects is of great importance in particular when irons or hair driers are used. Lastly, it has been found, surprisingly, that the compositions according to the present invention result in appreciably delayed re-soiling of the keratinic fibers. In addition, the formation of dandruff on the scalp is appreciably delayed.
An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50 wt % water.
“Aqueous alcoholic” cosmetic carriers are to be understood for purposes of the present invention as aqueous solutions containing 3 to 70 wt % of a C1 to C6 alcohol, in particular methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol, isopentanols, n-hexanol, isohexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, and/or 1,6-hexanediol. The agents according to the present invention can additionally contain further organic solvents such as, for example, methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol, or 1,2-propylene glycol. All water-soluble organic solvents are preferred in this context. Water is particularly preferred.
A first subject of the present invention is therefore a hair treatment agent containing, in a suitable cosmetic carrier, based in each case on the total composition of the agent:
The use of this combination results in surprisingly good properties in the treated hair, in particular improved combability properties, improved shine, and improved elasticity, as well as appreciably increased washing fastness of colored hair, and in longer durability simultaneously with better reshaping performance in the context of waving operations such as water waving and permanent waving. This is even more surprising given that it is possible with these active substance combinations at least to reduce the concentration of fatty alcohols in conditioning compositions. The term “fatty alcohol” is known to one skilled in the art, but will be described in detail at a later juncture. A “fatty alcohol” is understood in the present compound as a linear, branched, saturated, or unsaturated alcohol having at least 10 to 30 carbon atoms. The concentration of fatty alcohols can be limited to quantities less than 2.0 wt %, particularly preferably in fact to quantities less than 1.0 wt % and highly preferably to quantities less than 0.5 wt %. The great advantage of a reduction in the fatty alcohol content is considerably decreased stress on the keratinic fibers, simultaneously with outstanding combability of both wet and dry hair. In addition, these compositions according to the present invention exhibit outstanding volume values for the completely styled hairstyle.
The first obligatory component is a cationic alkyloligoglucoside as shown in the following illustration:
In the formula depicted above, residues R mutually independently denote a linear or branched C6 to C30 alkyl residue, a linear or branched C6 to C30 alkenyl residue; by preference residue R denotes a residue R selected from lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl, or arachidyl.
Residues R1 mutually independently denote a linear or branched C6 to C30 alkyl residue, a linear or branched C6 to C30 alkenyl residue; by preference residue R denotes a residue selected from butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl, or arachidyl. Particularly preferably, residues R1 are identical. Even more preferably, residues R1 are selected from industrial mixtures of the fatty alcohol cuts from C6/C8 fatty alcohols, C8/C10 fatty alcohols, C10/C12 fatty alcohols, C12/C14 fatty alcohols, C12/C18 fatty alcohols, and highly preferably these are those industrial fatty alcohol cuts that are of vegetable origin.
Particularly preferred examples of the cationic alkyloligoglucosides are the compounds having the INCI names Polyquatemium-77, Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79, Polyquatemium-80, Polyquaternium-81, and Polyquaternium-82. The cationic alkyloligoglucosides having the names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-81, and Polyquaternium-82 are highly preferred.
Compounds of this kind can be acquired, for example, from Colonial Chemical Inc. under the name Poly Suga® Quat.
The cationic alkyloligoglucosides are used in a total quantity from 0.01 to 10.0 wt %, by preference from 0.05 to 5.0 wt %, even more preferably from 0.1 to 3.0 wt %, and highly preferably in quantities from 0.2 to 2.0 wt %, based in each case on the total weight of the composition. Also encompassed according to the present invention is of course the fact that mixtures of cationic alkyloligoglucosides can be used. It is preferred in this case if one long-chain and one short-chain cationic alkyloligoglucoside are used simultaneously in each case.
The second obligatory component of the active substance complex according to the present invention is an alkyl- or alkenyloligoglucoside. The alkyl- or alkenyloligoglucosides are known nonionic surfactants according to formula (I),
R1O-[G]p (I)
in which R1 denotes an alkyl or alkenyl residue having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G a sugar residue having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p denotes numbers from 1 to 10.
The alkyl- and alkenyloligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses and/or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. The preferred alkyl- and/or alkenyloligoglycosides are thus alkyl- and/or alkenyloligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and denotes a number between 1 and 30. Whereas p in the individual molecule must always be an integer, and here can assume especially the values p=1 to 20, the value p for a specific alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically ascertained calculated value that usually represents a fractional number. Alkyl- and/or alkenyloligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p from 1.1 to 20.0 are preferably used. The alkyl and/or alkenyl residue R1 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 30, by preference 6 to 24 carbon atoms, particularly preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capronyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, caprinyl alcohol, octanol, nonanol, decanol, undecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, as well as industrial mixtures of and having said alcohols.
Corresponding products are available commercially under the commercial names Plantacare® and Oramix®. The commercial products Plantacare® 1200 UP, Plantacare® 2000 UP, Plantacare® 818 UP, and Oramix® NS 10 are particularly preferred.
The alkyl- and alkenyloligoglycosides are used in quantities from 0.01 to 10 wt %, preferably 0.01 to 7.0 wt %, and very particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0 wt %, based on the total agent used according to the present invention.
Ester oils can be contained with particular preference as a third obligatory component of the active substance complex according to the present invention. The ester oils are defined as follows:
“Ester oils” are to be understood as esters of C6 to C30 fatty acids with C2 to C30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty-acid components used in the esters are hexanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, decanoic acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, and erucic acid, as well as industrial mixtures thereof. Examples of the fatty-alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, capronyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, caprinyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, eleostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and brassidyl alcohol, as well as industrial mixtures thereof. Isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl esters (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate/caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V) are particularly preferred according to the present invention.
The ester oils can of course also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. The alkoxylation can be located both on the fatty-alcohol part and on the fatty-acid part, and also on both parts, of the ester oils. It is preferred according to the present invention, however, if the fatty alcohol was first alkoxylated and then was esterified with fatty acid. Formula (D4-II) depicts these compounds in generalized fashion.
R1 here denotes a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated and/or cyclic unsaturated acyl residue having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
AO denotes ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or butylene oxide,
X denotes a number between 1 and 200, by preference 1 and 100, particularly preferably between 1 and 50, very particularly preferably between 1 and 20, highly preferably between 1 and 10, and most preferably between 1 and 5,
R2 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkinyl, phenyl, or benzyl residue having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty-acid components used as residue R1 in the esters are hexanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, decanoic acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, and erucic acid, as well as industrial mixtures thereof. Examples of the fatty-alcohol components as residue R2 in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, capronyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, caprinyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, eleostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and brassidyl alcohol, as well as industrial mixtures thereof. An ester oil that is particularly preferred according to the present invention is obtainable, for example, under the INCI name PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate.
Also to be understood as ester oils are:
The ester oils are selected particularly preferably from fatty acid monoglycerides and/or monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms. Highly preferably, the ester oils are selected from monoglycerides of lauric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, and behenic acid. Glyceryl monostearate is most preferred.
Ester oils are used in the agents according to the present invention in a quantity from 0.01 to 10 wt %, preferably 0.01 to 7.0 wt %, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5.0 wt %, highly preferably from 0.1 to 2.5 wt %. It is of course also possible according to the present invention to use several ester oils simultaneously.
The fourth obligatory component of the active substance complex is at least one quaternary ammonium compound, in a total quantity from 0.1 to 10.0 wt %, selected from at least one of the groups of
Esterquats in accordance with formula (Tkat1-2) are the first group of the quaternary ammonium compounds.
Residues R1, R2, and R3 therein are each mutually independent and can be identical or different. Residues R1, R2, and R3 signify:
The residue —(X—R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.
In this, X denotes:
2) —(CH2—CHR5-O)n—, where n=1 to 200, by preference 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20, where R5 has the meaning of hydrogen, methyl, or ethyl,
Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Rewoquat®, Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, Armocare®, and Akypoquat®. The products Armocare® VGH-70, Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80, Dehyquart® F-30, Dehyquart® AU-35, Rewoquat® WE18, Rewoquat® WE38 DPG, Stepantex® VS 90, and Akypoquat® 131 are examples of these esterquats.
Further compounds of formula (Tkat1-2) that are particularly preferred according to the present invention conform to formula (Tkat1-2.1), the cationic betaine esters
The meaning of R8 corresponds to that of R7.
The esterquats having the commercial names Armocare® VGH-70 as well as Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® L80, Stepantex® VS 90, and Akypoquat® 131 are particularly preferred.
Quaternary imidazoline compounds are a further group. Formula (Tkat2) depicted below shows the structure of these compounds:
Residues R denote, mutually independently in each case, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon residue having a chain length from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of formula (Tkat2) each contain the same hydrocarbon residue for R. The chain length of residues R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms. “A” denotes an anion as described above. Examples that are particularly in accordance with the present invention are obtainable, for example, under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83, and Quaternium-91. Quaternium-91 is highly preferred according to the present invention.
Cationic surfactants of formula (Tkat-1) are the third group of preferred quaternary ammonium compounds.
In formula (Tkat1), R1, R2, R3, and R4, mutually independently in each case, denote hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl residue having a chain length from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which optionally can be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. “A” denotes a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide, as well as methosulfates.
Examples of compounds of formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate. Compounds having at least one cetyl or behenyl residue in the molecule are particularly preferred. Cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts are highly preferred; cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride are most highly preferred.
Amines and/or cationized amines, in particular amidoamines and/or cationized amidoamines, are the last group of quaternary ammonium compounds. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention the agents according to the present invention contain, besides at least one further one of the quaternary ammonium compounds, at least one amine and/or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and/or a cationized amidoamine, having the following structural formulas:
R1-NH—(CH2)n—N+R2R3R4A (Tkat3),
in which R1 signifies an acyl or alkyl residue having 6 to 30 carbon atoms which can be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and such that the acyl residue and/or the alkyl residue can contain at least one OH group, and
A composition in which the amine and/or the quaternized amine according to the general formulas (Tkat3) is an amidoamine and/or a quaternized amidoamine, in which R1 signifies a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl residue having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which can contain at least one OH group, is preferred. A fatty acid residue made of oils and waxes, in particular natural oils and waxes, is preferred here. Suitable examples thereof are lanolin, beeswax, or candelilla wax.
Also preferred are those amidoamines and/or quaternized amidoamines in which R2, R3, and/or R4 in formula (Tkat3) signify a residue according to the general formula CH2CH2OR5, in which R5 can have the meaning of alkyl residues having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl, or hydrogen. The preferred value of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.
The alkylamidoamines both can be present as such, and can be converted by protonation in a correspondingly acid solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. The cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred according to the present invention.
Examples of commercial products of this kind according to the present invention are Witcamine® 100, Incromine® BB, Mackine® 401 and other Mackine grades, Adogen® S18V and, as permanently cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat® RTM 50, Empigen® CSC, Swanol® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat® UTM 50, Schercoquat® BAS, Lexquat® AMG-BEO, or Incroquat® Behenyl HE.
All the quaternary ammonium compounds recited above are cationic surfactants and can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, quantities between 0.01 and 10 wt %, preferably quantities from 0.01 to 7.5 wt %, and very particularly preferably quantities from 0.1 to 5.0 wt % being contained. The best results of all are obtained with quantities from 0.1 to 3.0 wt %, based in each case on the total composition of the respective agent. These quantities do not exceed or fall below these values even when mixtures of the cationic surfactants are used.
Besides the cationic surfactants, polymeric compounds are also to be included among the quaternary ammonium compounds. From the large number of these possible ingredients, the classes of cationic and/or amphoteric polymers, described below, are preferred.
The cationic and/or amphoteric polymers can be homo- or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, the quaternary nitrogen groups being contained either in the polymer chain or, by preference, as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium-group-containing monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds that carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium, and quaternary vinylammonium monomers having cyclic groups containing cationic nitrogens, such as pyridinium, imidazolium, or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or alkyvinylpyrrolidone salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are by preference lower alkyl groups such as, for example, C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
The ammonium-group-containing monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl esters, e.g. vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol, or ethylene glycol, the alkyl groups of these monomers being by preference C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
A highly preferred polymer is obtainable commercially under the name Polyquaternium-74.
A particularly suitable homopolymer is the poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium) chloride (crosslinked, if desired) having the INCI name Polyquatemium-37. Such products are available commercially, for example, under the designations Rheocare® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® CR (3V Sigma).
The homopolymer is used preferably in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion. Polymer dispersions of this kind are obtainable commercially under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96.
A very particularly preferred cationic polymer according to the present invention is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide, and 3-(methacryloylamino)propyllauryldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69) that is marketed, for example, by the ISP company under the commercial name Aquastyle® 300 (28 to 32 wt % active substance in ethanol/water mixture, molecular weight 350,000).
Suitable cationic polymers that are derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch, or guar. Chitosan and chitosan derivatives are also suitable. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula
G-O—B—N+RaRbRcA−
G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch anhydroglucose or cellulose anhydroglucose;
B is a divalent connecting group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene;
Ra, Rb and Rc mutually independently are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, the total number of carbon atoms in Ra, Rb, and Rc by preference being a maximum of 20,
A− is a usual counter anion and is by preference chloride.
Cationic (i.e. quaternized) celluloses are obtainable on the market with different degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen contents, and molecular weights. For example, Polyquaternium-67 is offered commercially under the names Polymer® SL or Polymer® SK (Amerchol). A further highly preferred cellulose is offered by the Croda company under the commercial name Mirustyle® CP. This is a Trimonium and Cocodimonium Hydroxyethylcellulose, constituting a derivatized cellulose, having the INCI-name Polyquatemium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used both in solid form and already predisssolved in aqueous solution.
Further cationic celluloses are available under the names Polymer JR® 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquatemium-10) and Polymer Quatrisoft® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquatemium-24). Further commercial products are the compounds Celquat® H 100 and Celquat® L 200. Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are Polyquatemium-24, Polyquaternium-67, and Polyquaternium-72.
Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the commercial designation Jaguar® and have the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. Particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are additionally available commercially from the Hercules company under the designation N-Hance®. Further cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the Cognis company under the designation Cosmedia®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® of the Hercules company. This raw material is a cationic guar derivative that is already predissolved. The cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the present invention.
A suitable chitosan is marketed, for example, by the Kyowa Oil & Fat company, Japan, under the trade name Flonac®. A preferred chitosan salt is chitosonium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, which is marketed e.g. under the designation Kytamer® PC by the Amerchol company, USA. Further chitosan derivatives are readily available commercially under the commercial designations Hydagen® CMF, Hydagen® HCMF, and Chitolam® NB/101.
Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example:
Amphoteric polymers used with very particular preference according to the present invention are copolymerizates of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymerizates are marketed under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, inter alia with the commercial name Merquat® 280 (Nalco).
Amphoteric polymers used with very particular preference according to the present invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide, and acrylic acid. These copolymerizates are marketed under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, inter alia with the commercial name Merquat® Plus 3330 (Nalco).
Amphoteric polymers can in general be used according to the present invention both directly and in a salt form that is obtained by neutralizing the polymerizate, for example using an alkali hydroxide.
The polymers described so far represent only some of the polymers usable according to the present invention. To eliminate the need describe all cationic and/or amphoteric polymers suitable according to the present invention, as well as their composition, the INCI declarations of the polymers preferred according to the present invention will indicated in summary fashion. The polymers preferred according to the present invention carry the INCI names. Polyquaternium-28, Polyquatemium-32, Polyquatemium-33, Polyquatemium-34, Polyquatemium-35, Polyquatemium-41, Polyquaternium-42, Polyquatemium-44, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquatemium-55, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-68, Polyquaternium-69, Polyquaternium-72, Polyquaternium-74, Polyquaternium-76, Polyquatemium-86, Polyquaternium-89 and Polyquaternium-95, and mixtures thereof.
The cationic polymers recited above can be used individually or in any combinations with one another, quantities between 0.01 and 10 wt %, preferably quantities from 0.01 to 7.5 wt %, and very particularly quantities from 0.1 to 5.0 wt % being contained. The best results of all are obtained with quantities from 0.1 to 3.0 wt %, based in each case on the total composition of the respective agent.
It is furthermore highly preferred according to the present invention if at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant is contained in the compositions according to the present invention. In the compositions according to the present invention, these ingredients possibly contribute considerably to stabilizing viscosity and storage behavior.
Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
“Ampholytic surfactants” (Tampho) are understood as those surface-active compounds that are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, having in each case approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines, and sulfobetaines.
Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocalkylaminopropionate, cocacylaminoethylaminopropionate, and C12 to C18 acyl sarcosine. Coco Betaine is a particularly preferred compound.
These ingredients are used in quantities from 0.01 to 5.0 wt % in terms of the total composition of the agent. Quantities from 0.05 to 5.0 wt % are preferred. Quantities from 0.1 to 5.0 wt % are particularly preferred, and from 0.3 to 3.0 wt % are highly preferred.
A second subject of the present invention is therefore a hair treatment agent according to Claim 1, wherein it furthermore contains at least one surfactant selected from zwitterionic and/or amphoteric surfactants, in a total quantity from 0.01 to 5.0 wt %.
All ingredients usual in cosmetic compositions can furthermore be added to this highly preferred basic framework of ingredients.
In particular, further oily substances can be added with very particular preference to the active substance combination according to the present invention. These oily substances are selected from:
The use of di-n-octyl ether in the active substance combination according to the present invention is particularly preferred. A very particularly preferred commercial product, Plantasil® Micro, already contains di-n-octyl ether in addition to glyceryl monooleate and decyl glucoside. This commercial product is therefore highly preferred according to the present invention.
These further oily substances are used in a quantity from 0.01 to 10.0 wt %, preferably 0.01 to 7.0 wt %, more preferably 0.05 to 5.0 wt %, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 3.0 wt %.
Although silicones have been used hitherto in cosmetic compositions because of their many positive properties, they are being regarded with increasing skepticism. For example, silicones often make it difficult to formulate stable emulsions, and alongside their positive properties also lead to stress on the keratinic fibers. Efforts are therefore increasingly being made to avoid this group of ingredients. Silicones can be used in the compositions according to the present invention, but they do not, surprisingly, result in any further increase in the effectiveness of the compositions according to the present invention. It is therefore possible and preferred according to the present invention to omit silicones. If silicones are nevertheless to be used, the following silicones can then be used at least with no disadvantageous influence on the compositions according to the present invention in terms of their effect.
Cationic aminosilicones having at least three terminal aminofunctional groups have only recently been offered commercially. These cationic silicone polymers are notable for the fact that they comprise a silicone skeleton as well as optionally a polyether part and furthermore at least one part having an ammonium structure. Examples of preferred cationic silicone polymers for purposes of the present invention are in particular the compounds having the INCI names: Silicone Quatemium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-3, Silicone Quaternium-4, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6, Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quatemium-10, Silicone Quatemium-11, Silicone Quaternium-12, Silicone Quatemium-15, Silicone Quatemium-16, Silicone Quatemium-17, Silicone Quatemium-18, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quatemium-21, Silicone Quaternium-22, as well as Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate and Silicone Quatemium-16/Glycidyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. Silicone Quaternium-22 is, in particular, most preferred. This raw material is marketed, for example, by the Evonik company under the commercial name Abil® T-Quat 60.
The cationic aminofunctional silicone polymers are contained in the compositions according to the present invention in quantities from 0.01 to 5 wt %, preferably in quantities from 0.05 to 5 wt %, and very particularly preferably in quantities from 0.1 to 5 wt %. The best results of all are obtained with quantities from 0.1 to 2.5 wt %, based in each case on the total composition of the respective agent.
The compositions according to the present invention can furthermore, instead of or in addition to the aminofunctional silicones just recited, contain further silicones. These silicones are preferably at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and/or the group of aminofunctional silicones and/or the group of dimethicones and/or the group of cyclomethicones.
The dimethicones according to the present invention can be both linear and branched, and also cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Si1):
(SiR13)—O—(SiR22—O—)x—(SiR13) (Si1).
Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Si1.1):
Residues R1 and R2 denote, mutually independently in each case, hydrogen, a methyl residue, a C2 to C30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon residue, a phenyl residue, and/or an aryl residue. The numbers x, y, and z are integers and range, mutually independently in each case, from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs, measured at 25° C. using a glass capillary viscosimeter in accordance with Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of Jul. 20, 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5,000,000 cPs; very particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cPs. Viscosities around the range of approximately 60,000 cPs are highly preferred. Reference may be made here, for example to the product “Dow Corning 200, 60,000 cSt.”
Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the present invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of formula (Si1.2)
(CH3)3Si—[O—Si(CH3)2]x—O—Si(CH3)3 (Si1.2),
in which x denotes a number from 0 to 100, by preference from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20, and in particular 0 to 10.
Dimethicones (Si1) are contained in the compositions according to the present invention in quantities from 0.01 to 10 wt %, by preference 0.01 to 8 wt %, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt %, and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt %, based on the total composition.
Lastly, dimethiconols (Si8) are understood as silicone compounds. Dimethiconols according to the present invention can be both linear and branched, and also cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-I):
(SiOHR12)—O—(SiR22—O—)x—(SiOHR12) (Si8-I).
Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8-II):
Residues R1 and R2 denote, mutually independently in each case, hydrogen, a methyl residue, a C2 to C30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon residue, a phenyl residue, and/or an aryl residue. The numbers x, y, and z are integers and range, mutually independently in each case, from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs, measured at 25° C. using a glass capillary viscosimeter in accordance with Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of Jul. 20, 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5,000,000 cPs; very particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cPs.
The following commercial products are recited as examples of such products: Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all four aforesaid GE Silicones), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all the aforesaid Wacker-Chemie GmbH).
Dimethiconols (Si8) are in the compositions according to the present invention in quantities from 0.01 to 10 wt %, by preference 0.1 to 8 wt %, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt %, and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt % dimethiconol, based on the composition.
Particularly preferred agents according to the present invention contain one or more aminofunctional silicones. Such silicones can be described, for example, by formula (Si-2)
M(RaQbSiO(4-a-b)/2)x(RcSiO(4-c)/2)yM (Si-2);
in the above formula,
Z according to formula (Si-2) is an organic aminofunctional residue containing at least one functional amino group. One possible formula for the aforesaid Z is NH(CH2)zNH2, in which z is an integer greater than or equal to 1. Another possible formula for the aforesaid Z is —NH(CH2)z(CH2)zzNH, in which both z and zz mutually independently are an integer greater than or equal to 1, said structure encompassing diamino ring structures such as piperazinyl. The aforesaid Z is most preferably an —NHCH2CH2NH2 residue. Another possible formula for the aforesaid Z is —N(CH2)z(CH2)zzNX2 or —NX2, in which each X is selected independently of X2 from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar aminofunctional residue of the formula —CH2CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NH2.
In formula (Si-2), a assumes values in the range from 0 to 2, b assumes values in the range from 2 to 3, a+b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range from 1 to 3.
Cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially obtainable products Dow Corning (DC) 929 Emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-7113, SM-2059 (General Electric), and SLM-55067 (Wacker) are suitable according to the present invention.
Particularly preferred agents according to the present invention are characterized in that they contain at least one aminofunctional silicone of formula (Si3-a)
in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m+n) is between 1 and 2000, by preference between 50 and 150, where n by preference assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m by preference assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
These silicones are referred to according to the INCI declaration as Trimethylsilylamodimethicones and are obtainable, for example, under the designation Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).
Also particularly preferred are agents according to the present invention that contain at least one aminofunctional silicone of formula (Si-3b)
in which
These silicones are referred to according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicones or as functionalized Amodimethicones, for example Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (obtainable e.g. as a commercial product: DC 8500 of the Dow Corning company), Trideceth-9 PG-Amodimethicone (obtainable e.g. as a commercial product: Silcare Silicone SEA of the Clariant company).
Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of the general formula (Si3c)
[R1R2R3N+-A-SiR7R8—(O—SiR9R10)n—O—SiR11R12-A-N+R4R5R6]2X− (Si3c)
where residues R1 to R6 mutually independently signify C1 to C22 alkyl residues that can contain hydroxy groups, and where by preference at least one of the residues comprises at least 8 carbon atoms and the remaining residues comprise 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
residues R7 to R12 mutually independently are identical or different and signify C1 to C10 alkyl or phenyl, A signifies a divalent organic connecting group, n is a number from 0 to 200, by preference from 10 to 120, particularly preferably from 10 to 40, and X− is an anion.
The divalent connecting group is by preference a C1 to C12 alkylene or alkoxyalkylene group that can be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
Particularly preferably, the group is —(CH2)3—O—CH2—CH(OH)—CH2—.
The anion X− can be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate, or a compound of the general formula RSO3−, in which R has the meaning of C1 to C4 alkyl residues.
A preferred diquaternary silicone has the general formula (Si3d)
[RN+Me2-A-(SiMe2O)n—SiMe2-A-N+Me2R]2CH3COO− (Si3d),
where A is the group —(CH2)3—O—CH2—CH(OH)—CH2,
R is an alkyl residue having at least 8 carbon atoms, and n is a number from 10 to 120.
Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known under the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes having two terminal trialkylammonium groups. Diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes of this kind are marketed by the Evonik company under the commercial names Abil® Quat 3270, 3272, and 3474.
Hair treatment agents preferred according to the present invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, 0.01 to 10 wt %, by preference 0.01 to 8 wt %, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt %, and in particular 0.2 to 5 wt % aminofunctional silicone(s) and/or diquaternary silicone.
Polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are a further silicone according to the present invention having amino functions. Polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds can be acquired, for example, from GE Bayer Silicones under the commercial name Baysilone®. The products having the designations Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253, and SFE 839 are preferred in this context. It is very particularly preferred to use Baysilone TP 3911 as an active component of the compositions according to the present invention. Polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are used in the compositions according to the present invention in a quantity from 0.01 to 10 wt %, by preference 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5.0 wt %, very particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5 wt %, referring in each case to the total composition.
The cyclic dimethicones referred to according to INCI as Cyclomethicones are also usable with preference according to the present invention. Preferred here are cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the present invention that contain at least one silicone of formula (Si-4)
in which x denotes a number from 3 to 200, by preference from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7, and in particular 3, 4, 5, or 6.
Agents likewise preferred according to the present invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of formula (Si-5)
R3Si—[O—SiR2]x—(CH2)n—[O—SiR2]y—O—SiR3 (Si-5),
in which R denotes identical or different residues from the group —H, phenyl, benzyl, —CH2—CH(CH3)Ph, C1-20 alkyl residues, by preference —CH3, —CH2CH3, —CH2CH2CH3, —CH(CH3)2, —CH2CH2CH2H3, —CH2CH(CH3)2, —CH(CH3)CH2CH3, —C(CH3)3, wherein x and y each denotes a number from 0 to 200, by preference from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7, and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6, and n denotes a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8, and in particular 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.
Besides the dimethicones, dimethiconols, amodimethicones, and/or cyclomethicones according to the present invention, water-soluble silicones can be contained in the compositions according to the present invention as further silicones.
Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from compounds of formulas (Si-6) and/or (Si-7). In particular, preferred silicone-based water-soluble surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols, which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.
“Dimethicone copolyols” are understood according to the present invention preferably as polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):
in which residue R denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, residues R′ and R″ signify alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, x denotes an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, y denotes an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and a and b denote integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30.
Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols for purposes of the invention are, for example, the products marketed commercially under the trade name SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING. Dimethicone copolyols particularly preferred according to the present invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193.
Dimethicone copolyols are in the compositions according to the present invention in quantities from 0.01 to 10 wt %, by preference 0.01 to 8 wt %, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt %, and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt % dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.
The hair treatment agents according to the present invention of course also contain, besides the active substance combination according to the present invention, further constituents usual in cosmetic compositions. Selection of these constituents is generally based on the intended use of the hair treatment agent. In the case of a shampoo, for example, further surface-active substances will be contained. In the case of hair treatments, further cationic compounds and further care-providing substances will be optionally contained. In many cases the agents contain at least one surface-active substance, both anionic as well as zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic, and cationic surface-active substances being suitable in principle. Selection of the surface-active substances is based on the nature of the agent.
All anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body are suitable as anionic surfactants (Tanion) in preparations according to the present invention. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are:
CH3—(CH2)y—CHOH—(CH2)p—(CH—SO3M)-(CH2)z—CH2—O—(CnH2nO)x—H, and/or
CH3—(CH2)y—(CH—SO3M)-(CH2)p—CHOH—(CH2)z—CH2—O—(CnH2nO)x—H,
R1(OCH2CH2)n—O(PO—OX)—OR2
If the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is very particularly preferred that they exhibit a restricted homolog distribution. It is further preferred in the case of mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether units that the number of glycol ether groups be equal to 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, particularly preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether groups without a restricted homolog distribution can also be obtained, for example, if on the one hand the number of polyglycol ether groups is equal to 4 to 12, and Zn or Mg ions are selected as a counter ion. One example thereof is the commercial product Texapon® ASV.
Nonionic surfactants (Tnio) are, for example,
R1CO—(OCH2CHR2)wOR3 (Tnio-I),
Surfactants (T) are used in quantities from 0.05 to 45 wt %, preferably 0.1 to 30 wt %, and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 25 wt %, based on the total agent used according to the present invention.
Emulsifier agents usable according to the present invention are, for example:
The agents according to the present invention contain emulsifier agents preferably in quantities from 0.1 to 25 wt %, in particular 0.5 to 15 wt %, based on the total agent.
With particular preference, the compositions according to the present invention contain fatty substances (Fat) as a further active substance. “Fatty substances” (Fat) are to be understood as fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
The fatty acids (Fatac) that can be used are linear and/or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms are preferred. Among those that might be recited are, for example, isostearic acids, such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95, as well as all other fatty acids marketed under the Edenor® commercial designations (Cognis). Further typical examples of such fatty acids are hexanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, decanoic acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, and erucic acid, as well as industrial mixtures thereof. The fatty acid cuts that are obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil are usually particularly preferred; the use of stearic acid is, as a rule, particularly preferred.
The quantity used is 0.1 to 15 wt % based on the total agent. The quantity is preferably 0.5 to 10 wt %, and quantities from 1 to 5 wt % can be very particularly advantageous.
Fatty alcohols (Fatal) that can be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having C6 to C30, preferably C10 to C22, and very particularly preferably C12 to C22 carbon atoms. Usable in the context of the invention are, for example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, caprinyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, as well as Guerbet alcohols thereof, this listing being intended to be exemplary and not limiting in nature. Fatty alcohols derive, however, from preferably natural fatty acids; it is usually possible to proceed by recovery from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the present invention are those fatty acid cuts that represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, available for purchase under the designations Stenol®, e.g. Stenol® 1618, or Lanette®, e.g. Lanette® O, or Lorol®, e.g. Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, e.g. Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16, or Isocarb® 24. It is of course also possible according to the present invention to use wool-wax alcohols such as those available for purchase under the designations Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet®, or Fluilan®. The fatty alcohols are used in quantities from 0.1 to 30 wt % based on the total preparation, preferably in quantities from 0.1 to 20 wt %.
Natural or synthetic waxes (Fatwax) that can be used according to the present invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozocerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, microcrystalline waxes made from PE or PP. Such waxes are obtainable, for example, via Kahl & Co., Trittau.
The quantity used is 0.1 to 50 wt % based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt %, and particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt % based on the total agent.
Protein hydrolysates and/or derivatives thereof are a further synergistic active substance according to the present invention in the compositions according to the present invention having the active substance complex according to the present invention.
According to the present invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin, or of marine or synthetic origin, can be used.
Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, protein hydrolysates of elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, and milk protein, which can also be present in the form of salts. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex), and Kerasol® (Croda).
Also preferred according to the present invention are vegetable protein hydrolysates such as, for example, soy, almond, pea, moring a, potato, and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are obtainable, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda), Crotein® (Croda), and Puricare® LS 9658 of the Laboratoires Sérobiologiques company.
Further protein hydrolysates preferred according to the present invention are of marine origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolysates from fish or algae, as well as protein hydrolysates from mussels and/or pearl hydrolysates. Examples of pearl extracts according to the present invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG® or Crodarom® Pearl.
Cationized protein hydrolysates are further to be included among the protein hydrolysates and derivatives thereof, in which context the underlying protein hydrolysate can derive from animals, for example from collagen, milk, or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy, or almonds, from marine life fauns, for example from fish collagen or algae, or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolysates. Typical examples that may be recited of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the present invention are the products listed under the INCI names in the “International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook” (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 1101 17th Street, N.W., Suite 300, Washington, D.C. 20036-4702), and available commercially.
The protein hydrolysates are contained in the compositions in concentrations from 0.001 wt % to 20 wt %, by preference from 0.05 wt % to 15 wt %, and very particularly preferably in quantities from 0.05 wt % to 5 wt %.
A further preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the present invention having the active substance complex according to the present invention is vitamins, provitamins, or vitamin precursors. Vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors that are allocated to groups A, B, C, E, F, and H are particularly preferred.
The group of substances referred to as “vitamin A” includes retinol (vitamin A1) as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). β-Carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Vitamin A components that are suitable according to the present invention are, for example, vitamin A acid and esters thereof, vitamin A aldehyde, and vitamin A alcohol, as well as esters thereof such as the palmitate and acetate. The agents according to the present invention contain the vitamin A component preferably in quantities from 0.05 to 1 wt %, based on the total preparation.
Members of the vitamin B group or vitamin B complex are, among others:
Vitamin B1 (thiamine)
Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)
Vitamin B3. The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide) are often listed under this designation. Nicotinic acid amide is preferred according to the present invention; it is contained in the agents used according to the present invention preferably in quantities from 0.05 to 1 wt % based on the total agent.
Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol, and pantolactone). In the context of this group, panthenol and/or pantolactone are preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol that are usable according to the present invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and the monoacetate thereof, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
Pantothenic acid is used in the present invention preferably as a derivative in the form of more-stable calcium salts and sodium salts (calcium pantothenate, sodium pantothenate). Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
The aforesaid compounds of the vitamin B type, in particular vitamin B3, B5, and B6, are contained in the agents according to the present invention preferably in quantities from 0.05 to 10 wt % based on the total agent. Quantities from 0.1 to 5 wt % are particularly preferred.
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is utilized in the agents according to the present invention preferably in quantities from 0.1 to 3 wt % based on the total agent. Utilization in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides, or the phosphates can be preferred. Utilization in combination with tocopherols can likewise be preferred.
Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular esters such as the acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, and succinate, are contained in the agents according to the present invention preferably in quantities from 0.05 to 1 wt % based on the total agent.
Vitamin F. The term “vitamin F” is usually understood to mean essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and arachidonic acid.
Vitamin H. “Vitamin H” refers to the compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which the trivial name “biotin” has, however, now become established. Biotin is contained in the agents according to the present invention preferably in quantities from 0.0001 to 1.0 wt %, in particular in quantities from 0.001 to 0.01 wt %.
The compositions according to the present invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E, and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives, as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin, are particularly preferred.
A particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is the betaines recited as follows: carnitine, carnitine nitrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetylcarnitine, betalaine, 1,1-dimethylproline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline hydrogen citrate, and the compound N,N,N-trimethylglycine referred to in the literature as “betaine.”
In a further embodiment preferred according to the present invention, the compositions according to the present invention contain bioquinones. In agents according to the present invention, “suitable bioquinones” are to be understood as one or more ubiquinone(s) and/or plastoquinone(s). The ubiquinones preferred according to the present invention have the following formula:
Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred in this context.
Preferred compositions according to the present invention contain purine and/or purine derivatives within narrower quantitative ranges. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the present invention are characterized here in that they contain, based on their weight, 0.001 to 2.5 wt %, by preference 0.0025 to 1 wt %, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt %, and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt % purine(s) and/or purine derivative(s). Cosmetic agents preferred according to the present invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine, or theophylline. In hair-cosmetic preparations, caffeine is most preferred.
In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent contains ectoin ((S)-2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid).
Agents that contain, based on their weight, 0.00001 to 10.0 wt %, by preference 0.0001 to 5.0 wt %, and in particular 0.001 to 3 wt % active substances from the group constituted by carnitine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoin, a vitamin of the B series, a purine, and derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts thereof, are particularly preferred according to the present invention.
A very particularly preferred care-providing additive in the hair treatment agents according to the present invention is taurine. “Taurine” is understood exclusively as 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, and a “derivative” as the explicitly recited derivatives of taurine. “Derivatives of taurine” are understood as N-monomethyltaurine, N,N-dimethyltaurine, taurine lysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithate, lysyl taurine, and omithyl taurine.
Agents according to the present invention that contain, based on their weight, 0.0001 to 10.0 wt %, by preference 0.0005 to 5.0 wt %, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt %, and in particular 0.001 to 1.0 wt % taurine and/or a derivative of taurine are particularly preferred.
The effect of the compositions according to the present invention can be further enhanced by means of a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and derivatives thereof (J). The sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, or ammonium salts, in which the ammonium ion carries, beside hydrogen, one to three C1 to C4 alkyl groups, are preferred. The sodium salt is very particularly preferred. The quantities used in the agents according to the present invention are 0.05 to 10 wt %, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt %.
The use of plant extracts as care-providing substances allows the hair treatment agents according to the present invention to be formulated in particularly near-natural fashion but nevertheless very effectively in terms of their care-providing performance. It can in fact be possible to dispense with preservatives that are otherwise usual. Preferred above all according to the present invention are the extracts from green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, whitethorn, linden blossom, almond, aloe vera, pine, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, lady's smock, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, melissa, restharrow, coltsfoot, hibiscus, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moring a, ginger root and Ayurvedic plant extracts such as for example Aegle marmelos (bilwa), Cyperus rotundus (nagar motha), Emblica officinalis (amalki), Morida citrifolia (ashyuka), Tinospora cordifolia (guduchi), Santalum album (chandana), Crocus sativus (kumkuma), Cinnamonum zeylanicum, and Nelumbo nucifera (kamala), sweet grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelt, corn, the various types of millet (proso millet, finger millet, foxtail millet as examples), sugar cane, ryegrass, meadow foxtail, false oat-grass, bentgrass, meadow fescue, moor grass, bamboo, cottongrass, pennisetums, Andropogonodeae (Imperata cylindrica, also known as blood grass or cogon grass), buffalo grass, cord grass, dog's tooth grass, lovegrass, Cymbopogon (citronella grass), Oryzeae (rice), Zizania (wild rice), marram grass, blue oatgrass, soft-grasses, quaking grasses, speargrasses, couch grasses and Echinacea, in particular Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench, all types of vine, and pericarp of Litchi chinensis.
The plant extracts can be used according to the present invention in both pure and dilute form. If they are used in dilute form, they usually contain approx. 2 to 80 wt % active substance and, as a solvent, the extraction agent or extraction agent mixture used to recover them.
It can occasionally be necessary to use anionic polymers. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers can be made are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid anhydride, and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acid groups in this context can be present entirely or partly as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
Anionic polymers that contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the only monomer or co-monomer have proven to be very particularly effective, in which context the sulfonic acid group can be present entirely or partly as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
The homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid that is obtainable commercially, for example, under the designation Rheothik® 11-80 is particularly preferred.
Preferred nonionogenic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ether, and vinyl ester.
Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid/acrylamide copolymers as well as, in particular, polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic-acid-group-containing monomers. A polymer of this kind is contained in the commercial product Sepigel® 305 of the SEPPIC company.
Anionic homopolymers that are likewise preferred are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, of sucrose, and of propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are obtainable commercially, for example, under the trademark Carbopol®.
Copolymers of maleic acid anhydride and methylvinyl ether, in particular those having crosslinks, are also color-preserving polymers. A maleic acid/methylvinyl ether copolymer crosslinked with 1,9-decadiene is obtainable commercially under the designation Stabileze® QM.
Anionic polymers are contained in the agents according to the present invention preferably in quantities from 0.05 to 10 wt %, based on the total agent. Quantities from 0.1 to 5 wt % are particularly preferred.
In a further embodiment, the agents according to the present invention can contain nonionogenic polymers.
Suitable nonionogenic polymers are, for example:
Nonionic polymers are contained in the compositions according to the present invention preferably in quantities from 0.05 to 10 wt %, based on the total agent. Quantities from 0.1 to 5 wt % are particularly preferred.
In a further embodiment, the agents according to the present invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
The following are to be recited, for example, as oil-soluble substances:
Suitable water-soluble substances are:
Typical UV-A filters that are suitable are, in particular, derivatives of benzoylmethane, for example 1-(4′-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione or 1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione. The UV-A and UV-B filters can, of course, also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances recited, insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose, in particular finely dispersed metal oxides and/or salts such as e.g. titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate, and zinc stearate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, by preference between 5 and 50 nm, and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but those particles that possess an ellipsoidal shape or one otherwise deviating from a spherical form can also be used.
The cosmetic agents can additionally contain further active substances, adjuvants, and additives such as, for example:
With regard to further optional components as well as the quantities of those components used, reference is made expressly to the relevant manuals known to one skilled in the art.
A further subject of the invention is therefore a method for hair treatment in which a hair treatment agent according to Claim 1 is applied onto the hair and is rinsed out of the hair after a contact time.
The contact time is preferably from a few seconds to 100 minutes, particularly preferably 1 to 50 minutes, and very particularly preferably 1 to 30 minutes.
Also in accordance with the invention is a method in which a cosmetic agent according to Claim 1 is applied onto the hair and remains there. “Remains on the hair” is understood according to the present invention to mean that the agent is not rinsed out of the hair again immediately after it is applied. Instead, in this case the agent remains on the hair for more than 100 minutes, until the hair is next washed.
Lastly, use of a composition as described above to reduce and/or delay dandruff on the scalp is in accordance with the invention.
The Examples below are intended to explain the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it.
All quantitative indications are parts by weight unless otherwise noted. The following formulations were made available using known manufacturing methods.
Care-providing spray, also usable in foam form and/or as a hair treatment:
For application as a foam, the relevant formulation is either introduced along with a propellant gas into an aerosol container, or discharged as a foam from a pump bottle using a corresponding pump attachment, for example an air foamer.
For application as a hair treatment or cream, fatty alcohol such as cetylstearyl alcohol and/or ethylene glycol stearate and/or glycerol monostearate is added, in quantities from 0.2 to 5.0 wt %, to the formulations listed above.
Shampoo:
While at least one exemplary embodiment has been presented in the foregoing detailed description of the invention, it should be appreciated that a vast number of variations exist. It should also be appreciated that the exemplary embodiment or exemplary embodiments are only examples, and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability, or configuration of the invention in any way. Rather, the foregoing detailed description will provide those skilled in the art with a convenient road map for implementing an exemplary embodiment of the invention, it being understood that various changes may be made in the function and arrangement of elements described in an exemplary embodiment without departing from the scope of the invention as set forth in the appended claims and their legal equivalents.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 2012 219 587.4 | Oct 2012 | DE | national |
