The present invention will now be described in greater detail with reference to the figures that illustrate the performance tests of the present invention.
The present invention describes an antioxidant complex comprising at least one cinnamic acid, which may be obtained, for instance, from coffee extract, at least one carotenoid, preferably lycopene, and vitamin E, in addition to a cosmetic and pharmaceutically acceptable carrier. This complex aids in the protection and prevention of cellular and cutaneous damages resuIting from the action of free radicals with high efficacy.
Antioxidant complex is defined herein as a composition comprising at least 3 components that exhibit antioxidant potential and, in combination, exhibit an unexpected synergistic effect, achieving a very high antioxidant potential.
The present invention further describes cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions of topical use for skin care when subjected to UV rays, formed by a combination of water-soluble and liposoluble antioxidant agents in the same complex that enables an adequate actuation in both biologic media, both hydrophilic and lipophilic.
Further, in the specified amounts, it is not necessary to add vitamin C. In this regard, the composition is more advantageous in financial terms, in addition to the fact that it does not have the inevitable drawbacks caused by the degradation of this component, when present in cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical compositions.
The main examples of products that can be prepared from the antioxidant complex of the present invention or from cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions comprising said complex are:
The antioxidant complex of the present invention, incorporated into cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, presents a variety of advantages and desired characteristics in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical product for the skin, some of which are listed below.
1. it is stable for a period of at least two years;
2. it exhibits an adequate non-sticky non-oily texture during the application;
3. it spreads easily;
4. it presents ideal time relating to the absorption and drying of the cosmetic product on the skin;
5. it does not cause oiliness on the skin after application;
6. it has high capability of maintaining the moisturizing of the skin;
7. it does not present comedogenidity;
8. it does not present phototoxicity;
9. it does not present allergenicity;
10. it does not cause any kind of adverse reaction or injury, be it cutaneous or ocular, either in normal conditions of use or in conditions of forced diaphoresis;
11. it is compatible with a wide variety of actives;
12. it provides a degree of skin moisturizing significantly above average of emulsions of the same category;
13. it provides smoothness, softness to the skin and has good spreadability, besides an excellent degree of homogeneousness and stability;
14. since it does not cause irritation, it becomes more comfortable and enables the use several times a day;
15. it exhibits adequate chemical stability;
16. it provides more protection of the skin against the formation of free radicals resulting from ultraviolet radiation, which has in its spectrum wave-length ranges that recognizably promote the formation of these species. In this latter sense, it permits formation of sunscreens and post-sun products that protect the skin more effectively against the damages caused by exposure to sunlight;
17. It provides more protection of the skin against the formation of free radicals resulting from exposure to various polluting agents, among them cigarette smoke. In this regard, it enables the preparation of formulation of products that form a film that protects the skin against these agents;
18. It provides more protection against the unbalance between the endogenous formation and combat of free radicals resulting from the natural aging process of the skin. In this way, it enables the preparation of more effective anti-signs formulations;
19. The antioxidant activity of the complex of the present invention is kept at adequate levels during the validity time of the products that contain it;
20. The shelf time of this complex is longer when compared with that of other agents and antioxidant systems of the prior art and further it does not need to be stored under cooled conditions;
21. The products that comprise the antioxidant complex of the present invention present absence of organoleptic alterations, unlike some products of the prior art, such as, for example:
a. products that contain tocopherol (a powerful antioxidant) may undergo intense yellowing, mainly when they are associated to another antioxidant or to some pro-oxidant agent;
b. products that contain vitamin C or derivatives thereof generally present significant alterations of aspect, color and odor.
22. The antioxidant complex of the present invention may be incorporated into various galenic forms, such as water gels, alcoholic gels, water-in-oil, oil-in-water, water-in-silicone emulsions sold under the names of gel creams, creams, lotions, among other possibilities of galenic forms, with maintenance of the stability of these compositions;
23. The antioxidant complex, when combined with at least one sunscreen, aids in protecting the immune system and exerts a DNA protecting activity;
24. The antioxidant complex of the present invention may be added to formulations with photoprotectors that contain physical sunscreens;
25. The antioxidant complex of the present invention comprises a combination of water-soluble and liposoluble antioxidant agents. Thus, it enables an adequate actuation in both biological media, both hydrophilic and lipophilic media, unlike most products of this line of the prior art.
The antioxidant complex of the present invention comprises at least one cinnamic acid, which may be obtained, for instance, from coffee extract, at least one carotenoid, preferably lycopene and vitamin E. In addition to these components, the antioxidant complex may further comprise optional antioxidant agents.
On the other hand, the cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions that comprise the antioxidant complex of the present invention may further contain various components such as photoprotectors agents (sunscreens) and other agents that exhibit specific functions required for each composition necessary for each situation such as sequestering agents, thickening agents, pH adjusting agents, preservatives, wetting agents, emollients, dyes, oiliness adsorbing agents, actives like anti-aging agents, among others.
The components that may be used in the antioxidant complex of the present invention will now be described in greater detail.
Preferably, coffee-bean extract may be added to the present invention, which comprises cinnamic acid in the form of chlorogenic acids and caffeic acid. This coffee-bean extract may be obtained, for instance, from the teachings of the French document FR 2 734 479. By this process a coffeebean extract rich in acids, mainly caffeic acid is obtained.
It is known from the prior art that the composition of coffee is: 1.5 to 2.5% of caffeine, which is bonded to chlorogenic acid, 3 to 5% of tannin and 10 to 13% of fixed oil (fatty oils). Chlorogenic acid imparts to coffee properties that regulate the SNC functions. It prevents coronary diseases, and depressions caused by heart diseases. In addition, it facilitates the learning and memorizing process. By the cited French process, a coffee bean extract with maximized amounts of the desired acids is obtained.
Further, from the documents of the prior art cited before, it can be concluded that caffeic acid exhibits antioxidant properties. Thus, for the present invention, preference is given to this acid.
In the preferred embodiments of the present invention, at least one cinnamic acid is added, preferably a mixture of chlorogenic acids, more preferably a mixture of chlorogenic acids rich in caffeic acid, in an amount ranging from 0.000001% to 40.000000%, preferably from 0.00001% to 10.00000%, more preferably from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the antioxidant complex of the present invention.
In cosmetic formulations, the main forms found are tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate.
The former is used with better performance as an antioxidant, but since it has high instability with respect to light and air, it is often replaced by the latter, which has better stability.
Vitamin E is further found in the form of other tocopherol derivatives, such as tocopherol linoleate, tocopherol nicotinate and tocopherol palmitate.
Vitamin E acts as an antioxidant (against free radicals), further has anti-inflammatory capability and reduces the number of cells damaged by UV radiation.
In the preferred embodiments, vitamin E is added, preferably a tocopherol derivative, more preferably tocopheryl acetate in an amount ranging from 0.000001% to 99.999998%, preferably from 0.0001% to 10.0000%, more preferably from 0.01% to 2.00% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Carotenoids are lipophilic pigments found in photosynthetic complexes of plants and photosynthetic bacteria, fungi and algae. More than 600 different natural carotenoids are known, wherein α-β-carotene, lycopene, β-cryptoxanthin, lutein and zeaxanthin are the carotenoids of higher concentration in the human plasma. The predominant carotenoids in the human epithelial tissue are β-carotene and lycopene; but the latter has a great advantage with respect to β-carotene, since it is not consumed during the “capture” of singlet oxygen and is not precursor of vitamin A, and may be used in products that are exposed to light.
In the preferred embodiments, at least one carotenoid is added, preferably lycopene or beta-carotene, more preferably lycopene extracted from tomato in an amount ranging from 0.000001% to 40.000000%, preferably from 0.00001% to 1.00000%, more preferably from 0.001% to 0.010% by weight, based on the total weight of the antioxidant complex.
Further, other optional antioxidant agents may be added to the antioxidant complex.
A few examples of compounds with antioxidant properties that may be added to the compositions of the present invention are: sulfites, imidazoles, urocanic acid and derivatives thereof, glutathione, lipophilic substances such as butyl hydroxytoluene (BHT), butyl hydroxyanisole (BHA), sunflower-seed extract and derivatives thereof, and others.
The present invention does not comprise vitamin C, since this component would greatly restrict the types of formulation into which the anti-oxidant complex could be incorporated. If present in the formulations, vitamin C would become unstable, it would lose its therapeutic properties and cause significant alterations of color (making the products nut-brown or black) and significant olfactive alterations (imparting an unpleasant metallic odor):
The present invention has a broad application in compositions containing oxides like, for example, titanium dioxide (TiO2).
Images of the two formulations composed by the same base are given below, wherein one has added:
The photographs register observations effected after a week of stability of the product.
Thus the present invention presents compositions that do not have the drawbacks found in some formulations of the prior art that contain vitamin C. Therefore, they do not present alterations of odor or separation of phases, present adequate coloration and prolonged stability.
As can be seen in
In
Examining
The sample comprising vitamin C of
All the compositions comprise the components of example 5 (only having, evidently, the difference of presence or absence of vitamin C) and were exposed to air in varying exposure times.
By preference, the components of the antioxidant complex are present in the following proportions (all the amounts are expressed in parts by weight:
According to the present invention, the antioxidant agents, when present in the proportions described herein, act with high efficacy, avoiding the need to add vitamin C, which is a widely known antioxidant agent. Thus, it prevents the drawbacks thereof already mentioned.
In addition, the carotenoid components, preferably lycopene, cinnamic acid, preferably chlorogenic acids rich in caffeic acid, vitamin E, preferably tocopheryl acetate, in the amounts specified herein achieve an antioxidant potential higher than expected. In comparison with antioxidant systems available on the market, said potential proves to be up to 7 times as high, thanks to the synergy obtained in combining said components in the defined amounts.
The cosmetic composition, which may be an emulsion of the oil-in-water type, may comprise an amount of the antioxidant complex of the present invention ranging from 0.000003% to 70.00000% by weight, based on the total weight of said composition.
Further, the pharmaceutical composition, which may be an emulsion of the oil-in-water type, may comprise an amount of the antioxidant complex of the present invention ranging from 0.000003% to 99.999998% by weight, based on the total weight of said composition.
The cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions that comprise the antioxidant complex of the present invention also may comprise some components known from the prior art.
The function of emollients in cosmetic compositions is to add or replace lipids and natural oils to the skin. They also act as solubilizers of sunscreens.
As emollients to be added to the composition of the present invention, one can cite conventional lipids like, for instance, oils, waxes, lipids and other water-insoluble components and polar lipids that are the lipids modified to increase their solubility in water by esterification of a lipid to a hydrophilic unit like, for example, hydroxyl groups, carbonyl groups, among others. Some compounds that may be used as emollients are natural oils such as essential oils and plant derivatives, esters, silicone oils, polyunsaturated fatty acids, lanoline and derivatives. Some natural oils that may be used are derived from damson seed oil, sesame oil, soybean, ground-nut, coco-nut, olive, cocoa-butter, almond, avocado, carnauba, rice bran, peach stone, mango stone, jojoba, macadamia nut, coffee bean, grape seed, pumpkin seed, among others and mixtures thereof.
Some ethers and esters may also be used in the function of emollients such as, for example, C8-C30 alkyl esters of C8-C30 carboxylic acids, C1-C6 diol monoesters and diesters of C8-C30 carboxylic acids, C10-C20 alcohol sucrose monoesters and combinations thereof. Examples of these compounds are dicaprylic ether, cetyl lactate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl isononate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose oleate, isostearyl lactate, glyceryl behenate, triglycerol-4 isostearate, lauryl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, pantenyl triacetate and combinations thereof.
Silicones also act as emollients in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions of the present invention. Some examples of silicones that may be added to said compositions are: volatile and non-volatile silicone oils such as, for example, cyclomethicone, alkyl dimethicones, dimethicone-copolyols, dimethiconols, phenyl trimethicones, capryllyl trimethicones, aminofuncional silicones, phenyl-modified silicones, alkyl-modified silicones; dimethyl and diethyl polysiloxane, mixed C1-C30 alkyl polysiloxane, polymethyl-siloxane, α-methyl-ω-methoxypolymethylsiloxane, polyoxydimethylsilylene, polydimethyl silicone oil and combinations thereof or silicone elastomers such as cyclomethicone dimethicone crospolymer, vinyl dimethicone and dimethicone crospolymer, dimethicone dimethicone crospolymer and cyclopenta-siloxane dimethicone crospolymer.
Other fatty alcohols, mono-, di- or triglyceride ethers that have a lipophilic nature as dicaprylylic ether may be used, in addition to synthetic and natural hydrocarbons, organic carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate, some types of silicones such as cyclomethicone and mixtures thereof.
In addition, several natural compounds may be used as emollient, as for example, microcrystalline wax, carnauba wax, Shea butter, beeswax, ozokerite wax, among others.
In order to filter the sunrays, sunscreen agents may be added, which may be water-soluble or liposoluble.
Some examples of sunscreens that absorb ultraviolet rays, which are indicated to be added to the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are: camphor benzylidene and derivatives thereof, camphor isophthalylidene and camphor terephthalylidene and derivatives thereof, cinnamic acid and esters thereof, salicylic acid and its esters, benzoic acid and its esters, p-aminobenzoic acid and derivatives thereof such as its esters, substituted hydrozylbenzophenones, substituted dibenzoylmethane, benzotriazole and some derivatives like 2-arylbenzotriazole, 2-arylbenzimidazole, 2-arylbenzofuranes, 2-arylbenzoxazole, 2-arylinol, monophenylcyanoacrylates, diphenyl-cyanoacrylates, among other ultraviolet-ray filters known from the prior art.
A few examples of sunscreens indicated for the present invention are organic compounds, often little soluble in water, such as triazine derivatives (for example, hydroxyphenyltrizine compounds or benzotriazole derivatives), some amides like those that contain a vinyl group, cinnamic acid derivatives, sulfonated benzimidazoles, oxalylamides, camphor derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives like 2-ethylhexyl, homoasalates and isopropyl salicylates, diphenylacrylates, benzophenone derivatives like benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3 and benzophenone-4, PABA like 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylamino-benzoate, and other sunscreens usually added to compositions of products for protection against sunlight.
In addition to the examples cited above, there are other preferred components for exerting this function, such as: anilino-N,N,N-trimethyl-4(2-oxoborn-3-ylidenomethy) methyl sulfate; 3,3′-(1,4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-(2.2.1) 1-hepthylmetanosulfonic acid and derivatives thereof; 1-(4 terc-butylphenyl)-3-(4-metoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione; α-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts of potassium, sodium and trietanolamine; 2-cyano-3,2-ethylexyl 3′-diphenylacrylate; 2-etoxyethyl 4-metoxycinnamate; 2,2′-dihydroxy-4-metoxybenzophenone; methyl anthranylate; trietanolamine salicylate; 2, 2′, 4, 4′ tetrahydroxybenzophenone; 2-phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonic acid and its salts of potassium, sodium and trietanolamine; 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate; 2-hydroxy-4-metoxy-benzophenone (oxybenzone); 2-hydroxy-4-metoxybenzophenone 5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (sulisobenzone and sodic sulisobenzone); 4 amino-benzoic acid PABA; homomethyl salicylate; polymer of N-2{(2 and 4)[(2 oxo-born-3-ylidene) methyl] benzyl} acrylamide; titanium dioxide (with or without lipophilic coating); ethyl N-ethoxy-4-aminobenzoate; 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethyla-minobenzoate; 2-ethylhexyl salicylate; isopentyl 4-ametoxycinnamate; 3-(4′-methylbenzilidene-no)-d-1-camphor; 3-benzilidene camphor; 2,4,6-trianinilin-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-hexyl-1′-oxy)-1, e,5-triazine octyl; zinc oxide (with or without lipophilic coating); 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-{2-methyl-3-(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-((trimethylsilyl)oxy) disiloxanyl) propyl} phenol; benzoic acid; 4,4′[[6-[[40[[(1,1-dimethyl-ethyl) amino] carbonyl] phenyl] amino]-1,3k5-triazine-2,4-diyl] diimino] bis, bis (2 ethylhexyl); 2,2′-methylene-bis-6-(2H-benzo-triazol-2-yl)-4-(tetramethyl butyl)-1,1,3,3-phenol; methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetraethyl butyl phenol; monosodic salt of 2,2′-bis-(1,4-phenylene)-1H-benzimidazol-4,6 disulfoni acid; (1,3,5)-triazine-2,4-bis {[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxyl]phenyl]-6-(4-metoxyphenyl); bis-ethylexyloxyphenol metoxyphenyl triazine; methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol; butyl metoxydi- benzoylmethane, p-metoxicinnamate of 2-ethylexyl, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, 4-butyl-4-metoxydibenziolmethane, benzophenone 3, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol metoxyphenyl tirazine, octyl triazone, titanium dioxide, cinnamidopropyltrimonium chloride, dimiethylpabamidopropyl laurdimonium tosylate.
Further, there are other sunscreens that also protect the skin such as iron oxide, titanium dioxide, titanium dioxide combined with simethicone, zinc oxide, mono or polycarbonyl compounds like isatine, aloxane, ninidrine, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, pyrazolin-4,5-dione derivatives or 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-one derivatives, methylglyoxal, dialdehyde 2,3-dihydroxysuccinate, dialdehyde 2-amino-3-hydroxysuccinate and aldehyde 2-benzylamino-3-hydroxysuccinate.
Water is the base of several possibilities of cosmetic compositions prepared from the antioxidant complex already described, acting as a carrier for the other components. The compositions of the present invention comprise preferably demineralized or distilled water in a percentage (q.s.p.) suitable for achieving 100% of the formula, based on the total weight of the present composition. Naturally, other cosmetically acceptable carriers may be used in the present invention. In the examples of composition that will be described later, 96°0 GL ethyl alcohol is also used as a carrier.
In order to impart to the cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions of the present invention some desirable characteristic that is not achieved with the cited components, optional components that are compatible with it properties may be added. Some of these compounds that may be added to said compositions are the following:
The examples given below are preferred variations of compositions comprising the antioxidant complex of the present invention and should not be interpreted as being limitations thereof. In this regard, it should be understood that the scope of the present invention embraces other possible variations, being limited only by the contents of the accompanying claims, which include the possible equivalents.
Objective: analyzing the antioxidant potential of the complex of the present invention in comparison with other known antioxidant system compositions.
A solution of 0.004% of DPPH (diphenyl pycryl hydrazyl) in ethanol was used. The action of DPPH on ethanol generates free radicals, forming colorful aducts, which are spectrophotometrically detected.
Further, a solution of BHT in ethanol was used and its solutions described in the table below.
Tubes with the DPPH solution and the compositions of the above products were prepared.
According to the study, the anti-radical activity of the mixture of chlorogenic acids is directly proportional to the amount added to with respect to the volume of ethanol of the solution.
The antioxidant potential of the composition of the antioxidant complex comprising the mixture of chlorogenic acids rich in caffeic acid proved to be 7 times as high as the antioxidant potential of compositions that do not contain such a mixture. Therefore, an unexpected synergy is expected between the components present in the antioxidant complex of the present invention. Further, it has been noticed that the presence of vitamin C in this composition does not improve the potential of the antioxidant complex and, at determined concentrations, it causes reduction of said potential.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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PI0404331-6 | Sep 2004 | BR | national |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind | 371c Date |
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PCT/BR05/00200 | 9/2/2005 | WO | 00 | 7/25/2007 |