Patent Application
20090098072
The present invention relates to the use of compounds as antioxidant or for product protection or for pigmentation control, to corresponding novel compounds and compositions, and to corresponding processes for the preparation of compounds and compositions.
An area of application of the compounds according to the invention is, for example, cosmetics. The object of care cosmetics is wherever possible to obtain the impression of youthful skin. In principle, there are various ways of achieving this object. For example, existing skin damage, such as irregular pigmentation or the formation of wrinkles, can be compensated for by covering powders or creams. Another approach is to protect the skin against environmental influences which lead to permanent damage and thus ageing of the skin. The idea is therefore to intervene in a preventative manner and thus to delay the ageing process. An example of this are UV filters, which, as a result of absorption of certain wavelength ranges, pre-vent or at least reduce skin damage. Whereas in the case of UV filters the damaging event, the UV radiation, is screened off by the skin, another route involves attempting to support the skin's natural defence or repair mechanisms against the damaging event. Finally, a further approach involves compensating for the weakening of the defence functions of the skin against harmful influences with increasing age by externally supplying substances which are able to replace this diminishing defence or repair function. For example, the skin has the ability to scavenge free radicals generated by external or internal stress factors. This ability diminishes with increasing age, causing the ageing process to accelerate with increasing age.
A further difficulty in the preparation of cosmetics is that active compounds which are intended to be incorporated into cosmetic compositions are frequently unstable and can be damaged in the composition. The damage may be caused, for example, by a reaction with atmospheric oxygen or by absorption of UV rays. The molecules damaged in this way may, for exampie, change their colour and/or lose their activity through their structural change. Corresponding difficulties generally occur in the preparation, storage or use of compositions comprising oxidation-sensitive ingredients.
A known way of dealing with the problems described consists in adding antioxidants to the compositions.
According to CD Römpp Chemie Lexikon [CD Römpp's Lexicon of Chemistry]—Version 1.0, Stuttgart/New York: Georg Thieme Verlag 1995, antioxidants are compounds which inhibit or prevent undesired changes in the substances to be protected caused by the action of oxygen, inter alia oxidative processes. Areas of application are, for example, in plastics and rubber for protection against ageing, in fats for protection against rancidity, in oils, cattle feeds, automotive gasoline and jet fuels for protection against gumming, in transformer and turbine oil against sludge formation, in flavours against odour impairment. Compounds that are effective as antioxidants are, inter alia, phenols, hydroquinones, pyrocatechols, aromatic compounds, amines, each of which are substituted by sterically hindering groups, and metal complexes thereof. According to Römpp, the action of the antioxidants usually consists in that they act as free-radical scavengers for the free radicals which arise during autoxidation.
However, there continues to be a demand for skin-tolerated antioxidants which are also suitable for use in skin-care compositions.
The object of the invention is therefore to provide a composition which has a protective action against UV rays and/or exerts a protective action against oxidative stress on body cells and/or counters skin ageing.
The present invention therefore relates firstly to the use of compounds of the formula I
X—Ar—Y I
The compounds of the formula I here are preferably compounds of the formulae II to VIII
Counterions which can be employed for the salts of the compounds of the formula I are all anions which are acceptable for the corresponding application. It is advantageous here for the salts to be strong acids. It is particularly preferred in accordance with the invention for the salts to be chlorides, bromides or methylsulfates.
In accordance with the invention, the compounds described can be used as active compound for topical application or for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological compositions or for the preparation of household products. The compounds described can be employed for product protection. For the purposes of this application, product protection means, in particular, the protection of oxidation-sensitive formulation constituents, such as organic or inorganic dyes, antioxidants, vitamins, perfume components, oil components or matrix constituents, such as emulsifiers, thickeners, film formers and surfactants. This application relates to the corresponding use.
The invention also relates to the use of the compounds for the preparation of cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions or of foods or food supplements or for the preparation of household products.
The present invention furthermore relates to the compounds of the formula I, as defined above, but where the compounds
In a variant of the invention, preference is given to the use of compounds of the formula I in which R2, R3, R5 and R6 each stand for H.
In a variant of the invention, preference is given to the use of compounds of the formula I in which R1 in each case stands, independently of one another, for a straight-chain or branched C1- to C20-alkyl group, where the alkyl chains may each also be interrupted by oxygen or nitrogen, or for a straight-chain or branched C1- to C20-alkyl group, where the alkyl chain is functionalised by means of at least one sulfate, sulfonate, phosphonate or phosphate group.
It is furthermore particularly preferred if R1 in the compounds according to the invention in each case stands for H or methyl, where methyl may also be functionalised by means of a sulfate, sulfonate, phosphonate or phosphate group.
Very particular preference is given to compounds of the formula I, in particular compounds of the formula III, IV, VI, VII or VIII, in which two sulfonic acid groups are present, i.e. in which R1 in the formula indicated is identical and stands for a straight-chain or branched C1- to C20-alkyl group, where the alkyl chain is functionalised by means of at least one sulfonate group.
It is furthermore particularly preferred if R4 in the compounds according to the invention in each case stands for H or C1- to C4-alkyl, C1- to C4-dialkylamino or C1- to C4-trialkylammonium.
The at least one compound of the formula I in the use according to the invention is very particularly preferably selected from 1,7,7-trimethyl-3-benzylbicyclo[2.2.1]heptan-2-one, 1,7,7-trimethyl-3-(4-methylbenzylidene)bicyclo[2.2.1]heptan-2-ol, 1,7,7-trimethyl-3-benzylidenebicyclo[2.2.1]heptan-2-ol, 1,7,7-trimethyl-3-(4-methyl-benzyl)bicyclo[2.2.1]heptan-2-one, 7,7-dimethyl-3-(4-methylbenzyl)-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1]hept-1-yl]methanesulfonic acid, 7,7-dimethyl-3-benzyl-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1]hept-1-yl]methanesulfonic acid,
Further combinations of embodiments are disclosed in the claims.
The invention furthermore relates to compositions comprising at least one compound of the formula I.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term formulation is also used synonymously with the term composition.
The compositions may include or comprise, essentially consist of or consist of the requisite or optional constituents mentioned. All compounds or components which can be used in the compositions are either known and commercially available or can be synthesised by unknown processes.
The compositions here are usually either compositions which can be applied topically, for example cosmetic or dermatological formulations, or foods or food supplements or household products. In this case, the compositions comprise a vehicle which is suitable cosmetically or dermatologically, for foods or household products and, depending on the desired property profile, optionally further suitable ingredients.
Advantages of the compounds according to the invention or the use of compounds according to the invention or the compositions according to the invention may, in particular, be the following:
In addition, preferred compounds of those described here are colourless or only weakly coloured and thus do not result in discoloration of the compositions, or only do so to a minor extent.
As already stated above, the present invention furthermore relates to compositions comprising at least one vehicle which is suitable for cosmetic or dermatological compositions or household products and at least one compound of the above-mentioned formula I.
In accordance with the invention, it may be particularly preferred here for the composition to comprise at least one compound of the formula I en
where Y is selected from the radicals H, C1-8-alkyl or
and the radicals Ar and R1 are defined as described above.
It is particularly preferred here for the radicals in the at least one compound of the formula I and the at least one compound of the formula I en to be identical. In this case, the compound of the formula I can simultaneously serve as reservoir for the UV absorption potential of the compound of the formula I en, i.e. the use of the compounds of the formula I thus enables a reduction in the use concentration of the UV filter of the formula I en. Tailoring of the use concentrations presents the person skilled in the art with absolutely no difficulties.
The compounds of the formula I are, in accordance with the invention, typically employed in amounts of 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight and particularly preferably in amounts of 1 to 8% by weight. The person skilled in the art is presented with absolutely no difficulties here in selecting the amounts correspondingly depending on the intended action of the composition.
In order that the compounds according to the invention are able to develop their positive action as free-radical scavengers on the skin particularly well in a composition, it may be preferred to allow the compounds according to the invention to penetrate into deeper skin layers. Several possibilities are available for this purpose. Firstly, the compounds according to the invention can have an adequate lipophilicity in order to be able to penetrate through the outer skin layer into epidermal layers. As a further possibility, corresponding transport agents, for example liposomes, which enable transport of the compounds according to the invention through the outer skin layers may also be provided in the composition. Finally, systemic transport of the compounds according to the invention is also conceivable. The composition is then designed, for example, in such a way that it is suitable for oral administration.
In general, the substances of the formula I act as free-radical scavengers. Free radicals of this type are generated exogenously not only by sunlight, but also by the action of reactive substances, such as ozone, nitrogen oxides (for example cigarette smoke), or exposure to heavy metals (for example in the food). Further examples are anoxia, which blocks the flow of electrons upstream of the cytochrome oxidases and causes the formation of superoxide free-radical anions; inflammation associated, inter alia, with the formation of superoxide anions by the membrane NADPH oxidase of the leukocytes, but also associated with the formation (through disproportionation in the presence of iron(II) ions) of the hydroxyl free radicals and other reactive species which are normally involved in the phenomenon of phagocytosis; and lipid autoxidation, which is generally initiated by a hydroxyl free radical and produces lipidic alkoxy free radicals and hydroperoxides.
Owing to these properties, the compounds and compositions according to the invention are generally suitable for immune protection and for the protection of DNA and RNA. In particular, the compounds and compositions are suitable for the protection of DNA and RNA against oxidative attack, against free radicals and against damage due to radiation, in particular UV radiation. A further advantage of the compounds and compositions according to the invention is cell protection, in particular protection of Langerhans cells against damage due to the above-mentioned influences. All these uses and the use of the compounds according to the invention for the preparation of compositions which can be employed correspondingly are expressly also a subject-matter of the present invention.
In particular, preferred compounds and compositions according to the invention are also suitable for the treatment of skin diseases associated with a defect in keratinisation which affects differentiation and cell proliferation, in particular for the treatment of acne vulgaris. acne comedonica, polymorphic acne, acne rosaceae, nodular acne, acne conglobata, ageinduced acne, acne which arises as a side effect, such as acne solaris, medicament-induced acne or acne professionalis, for the treatment of other defects in keratinisation, in particular ichthyosis, ichthyosiform states, Darier's disease, keratosis palmoplantaris, leukoplakia, leukoplakiform states, herpes of the skin and mucous membrane (buccal) (lichen), for the treatment of other skin diseases associated with a defect in keratinisation and which have an inflammatory and/or immunoallergic component and in particular all forms of psoriasis which affect the skin, mucous membranes and fingers and toenails, and psoriatic rheumatism and skin atopy, such as eczema or respiratory atopy, or hypertrophy of the gums, it furthermore being possible for the compounds to be used for some inflammation which is not associated with a defect in keratinisation, for the treatment of all benign or malignant excrescence of the dermis or epidermis, which may be of viral origin, such as verruca vulgaris, verruca plana, epidermodysplasia verruciformis, oral papillomatosis, papillomatosis florida, and excrescence which may be caused by UV radiation, in particular epithelioma baso-cellulare and epithelioma spinocellulare, for the treatment of other skin diseases, such as dermatitis bullosa and diseases affecting the collagen, for the treatment of certain eye diseases, in particular corneal diseases, for overcoming or combating light-induced skin ageing associated with ageing, for reducing pigmentation and keratosis actinica and for the treatment of all diseases associated with normal ageing or light-induced ageing, for the prevention or healing of wounds/scars of atrophy of the epidermis and/or dermis caused by locally or systemically applied corticosteroids and all other types of skin atrophy, for the prevention or treatment of defects in wound healing, for the prevention or elimination of stretch marks caused by pregnancy or for the promotion of wound healing, for combating defects in sebum production, such as hyperseborrhoea in acne or simple seborrhoea, for combating or preventing cancer-like states or pre-carcinogenic states, in particular promyelocytic leukaemia, for the treatment of inflammatory diseases, such as arthritis, for the treatment of all virus-induced diseases of the skin or other areas of the body, for the prevention or treatment of alopecia, for the treatment of skin diseases or diseases of other areas of the body with an immunological component, for the treatment of cardiovascular diseases, such as arteriosclerosis or hypertension, and of non-insulin-dependent diabetes, for the treatment of skin problems caused by UV radiation.
The antioxidant actions of the compounds according to the invention can be determined, for example, using the methods indicated in the publication Buenger, J., Ackermann, H., Jentzsch, A., Mehling, A., Pfizner, I., Reiffen, K.-A., Schroeder, K.-R., and Wollenweber U., An interlaboratory comparison of methods used to assess antioxidant potentials, Int. J. Cosm. Sci., 28 (2006) pp. 1-12 The corresponding method description expressly belongs to the disclosure content of the present application.
A further important aspect for the action of the antioxidants is the time in which they react. This time can be determined, for example, in the DPPH assay as the time by which the EC50 value is achieved and gives the TEC50 value, which allows a conclusion to be drawn on the rate at which these antioxidants scavenge free radicals. For the purposes of these inventions, antioxidants which achieve this value within less than 60 minutes are regarded as fast, those which only achieve the EC50 value after more than 120 minutes are regarded as having a time-delayed action.
The anti-free-radical efficiency (AE) (described in C. Sanchez-Moreno, J. A. Larrauri and F. Saura-Calixto in J. Sci. Food Agric. 1998, 76(2), 270-276) is given by the above-mentioned quantities in accordance with the following relationship:
A low AE (×103) is in the range up to about 10, a moderate AE is in the range from 10 to 20 and a high AE has in accordance with the invention values above 20.
It may be particularly preferred in accordance with the invention to combine fast-acting antioxidants with those having a slow or time-delayed action. Typical weight ratios of the fast-acting antioxidants to time-delayed antioxidants are in the range 10:1 to 1:10, preferably in the range 10:1 to 1:1, and for skin-protecting compositions particularly preferably in the range 5:1 to 2:1. In other compositions which are likewise preferred in accordance with the invention, however, it may be advantageous for the purposes of action optimisation for more time-delayed antioxidants than fast-acting antioxidants to be present. Typical compositions then exhibit weight ratios of the fast-acting antioxidants to time-delayed antioxidants in the range 1:1 to 1:10, preferably in the range 1:2 to 1:8.
The protective action against oxidative stress or against the effect of free radicals can thus be further improved if the compositions comprise one or more further antioxidants, the person skilled in the art being presented with absolutely no difficulties in selecting suitably fast-acting or time-delayed anti oxidants.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is therefore a composition for the protection of body cells against oxidative stress, in particular for reducing skin ageing, characterised in that it preferably comprises one or more further antioxidants besides the one or more compounds of the formula I.
There are many proven substances known from the specialist literature which can be used as antioxidants, for example amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (for example α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (for example dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and the glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and salts thereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts), and sulfoximine compounds (for example buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa- and heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated doses (for example pmol to μmol/kg), and also (metal) chelating agents, (for example α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives (for example ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (for example vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (for example vitamin A palmitate), and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, quercetin, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO, ZnSO4), selenium and derivatives thereof (for example selenomethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide).
Suitable antioxidants are also described in WO 2006/111233 and WO 2006/111234.
Suitable antioxidants are also compounds of the general formula A or B
in which
R1 can be selected from the group —C(O)CH3, —CO2R3, —C(O)NH2 and —C(O)N(R4)2,
X denotes O or NH,
R2 denotes linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 30 C atoms,
R3 denotes linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 20 C atoms,
R4 in each case, independently of one another, denotes H or linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 8 C atoms,
R5 denotes linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 8 C atoms or linear or branched alkoxy having 1 to 8 C atoms, and
R6 denotes linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 8 C atoms, preferably derivatives of 2-(4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzylidene)malonic acid and/or 2-(4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzyl)malonic acid, particularly preferably bis(2-ethylhexyl) 2-(4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzylidene)malonate (for example Oxynex® ST Liquid) and/or bis(2-ethylhexyl) 2-(4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzyl)malonate (for example RonaCare® AP).
Mixtures of antioxidants are likewise suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. Known and commercial mixtures are, for example, mixtures comprising, as active compounds, lecithin, L-(+)-ascorbyl palmitate and citric acid (for example Oxynex® AP), natural tocopherols, L-(+)-ascorbyl palmitate, L-(+)-ascorbic acid and citric acid (for example Oxynex® K LIQUID), tocopherol extracts from natural sources, L-(+)-ascorbyl palmitate, L-(+)-ascorbic acid and citric acid (for example Oxynex® L LIQUID), DL-α-tocopherol, L-(+)-ascorbyl palmitate, citric acid and lecithin (for example Oxynex® LM) or butylhydroxytoluene (BHT), L-(+)-ascorbyl palmitate and citric acid (for example Oxynex® 2004). Anti-oxidants of this type are usually employed in such compositions with compounds according to the invention in ratios in the range from 1000:1 to 1:1000, preferably in amounts of 100:1 to 1:100.
The compositions according to the invention may comprise vitamins as further ingredients. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably comprise vitamins and vitamin derivatives selected from vitamin A, vitamin A propionate, vitamin A palmitate, vitamin A acetate, retinol, vitamin B, thiamine chloride hydrochloride (vitamin B1), riboflavin (vitamin B2), nicotinamide, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin D, ergocalciferol (vitamin D2), vitamin E, DL-α-tocopherol, tocopherol E acetate, tocopherol hydrogensuccinate, vitamin K1, esculin (vitamin P active ingredient), thiamine (vitamin B1), nicotinic acid (niacin), pyridoxine, pyridoxal, pyridoxamine (vitamin B6), pantothenic acid, biotin, folic acid and cobalamine (vitamin B12), particularly preferably vitamin A palmitate, retinol, vitamin C and derivatives thereof, DL-α-tocopherol, tocopherol E acetate, nicotinic acid, pantothenic acid and biotin. Vitamins are usually employed here with compounds according to the invention in ratios in the range from 1000:1 to 1:1000, preferably in amounts of 100:1 to 1:100.
It has been found here that antioxidants, such as, for example, beta-carotene and tocopherol, can accelerate the conversion of the compounds according to the invention into UV-filtering compounds. The present application therefore furthermore relates to the use of antioxidants for activating the compounds according to the invention.
The compounds of the formula I are not UVB or UVA absorbers, with the exception of the compounds of the formulae III, IV and VI, in which at least three double bonds are in conjugation. On irradiation, i.e. on use according to the invention of these compounds of the formula I, at least won a further double bond is formed, so that compounds having UV absorption in the UV-A and/or UV-B region are generated, in other words, compounds to be employed in accordance with the invention include precursors of UVB filters, UVA filters or UVB+UVA broadband UV filters, which can be employed alone or in combination with further UV filters. Other likewise preferred compounds of the formulae III, IV, VI, VII and VIII according to the invention are precursors of UV filters having an absorption maximum in the boundary region between UVB and UVA radiation. As UVA II filters, they can therefore advantageously supplement the absorption spectrum of commercially available UVB and UVA I filters. Reference is usually made to a UVA-II filter if its absorption maximum is in the UVA-II region between 320 nm and 340 nm. Correspondingly, UVA-I filters have a maximum between 340 nm and 400 nm
Furthermore, preferred compounds have advantages on incorporation into the compositions:
In likewise preferred embodiments of the invention, however, the compositions according to the invention may also comprise compounds according to the invention which have low solubility or are insoluble in the composition matrix. In this case, the compounds are preferably dispersed in the cosmetic composition in finely divided form.
Compositions which are particularly preferred in accordance with the invention can also serve as sunscreens and then also comprise UV filters in addition to the compounds according to the invention.
On use of the dibenzoylmethane derivatives, which are particularly preferred as UV-A filters, but are also used as UVB filters, or the cinnamic acid derivatives, which are employed, in particular, as UVB filters, in combination with the compounds according to the invention, an additional advantage arises: the UV-sensitive dibenzoylmethane derivatives and cinnamic acid derivatives are additionally stabilised by the presence of the compounds according to the invention. The present invention therefore furthermore relates to the use of the compounds according to the invention for the stabilisation of dibenzoylmethane derivatives and/or cinnamic acid derivatives in compositions.
In principle, all UV filters are suitable for combination with the compounds according to the invention. Particular preference is given to UV filters whose physiological acceptability has already been demonstrated. Both for UVA and UVB filters, there are many proven substances known from the specialist literature, for example
benzylidenecamphor derivatives, such as 3-(4′-methylbenzylidene)-dl-camphor (for example Eusolex® 6300), 3-benzylidenecamphor (for example Mexoryl® SD), polymers of N-{(2 and 4)-[(2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)methyl]-benzyl}acrylamide (for example Mexoryl® SW), N,N,N-trimethyl-4-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl)anilinium methylsulfate (for example Mexoryl® SK) or (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)toluene-4-sulfonic acid (for example Mexoryl® SL),
benzoyl- or dibenzoylmethanes, such as 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione (for example Eusolex® 9020) or 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane (for example Eusolex® 8020),
benzophenones, such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (for example Eusolex® 4360) or 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (for example Uvinul® MS-40),
methoxycinnamic acid esters, such as octyl methoxycinnamate (for example Eusolex® 2292), isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, for example as a mixture of the isomers (for example Neo Heliopan® E 1000),
salicylate derivatives, such as 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (for example Eusolex® OS), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate (for example Megasol®) or 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (for example Eusolex® HMS),
4-aminobenzoic acid and derivatives, such as 4-aminobenzoic acid, 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate (for example Eusolex® 6007), ethoxylated ethyl 4-aminobenzoate (for example Uvinul® P25),
phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acids, such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts thereof (for example Eusolex® 232), 2,2-(1,4-phenylene)bisbenzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid and salts thereof (for example Neoheliopan® AP) or 2,2-(1,4-phenylene)bisbenzimidazole-6-sulfonic acid;
and further substances, such as
The compounds mentioned in the list should only be regarded as examples. It is of course also possible to use other UV filters.
These organic UV filters are generally incorporated into cosmetic formulations in an amount of 0.5 to 10 percent by weight, preferably 1-8%.
Further suitable organic UV filters are, for example,
Further suitable UV filters are also methoxyflavones corresponding to the earlier German patent application DE-A-10232595.
Organic UV filters are generally incorporated into cosmetic formulations in an amount of 0.5 to 20 percent by weight, preferably 1-15% by weight.
Conceivable inorganic UV filters are those from the group of the titanium dioxides, such as, for example, coated titanium dioxide (for example Eusolex® T-2000, Eusolex® T-AQUA, Eusolex® T-AVO), zinc oxides (for example Sachtotec®), iron oxides or also cerium oxides. These inorganic UV filters are generally incorporated into cosmetic compositions in an amount of 0.5 to 20 percent by weight, preferably 2-10% by weight.
Preferred compounds having UV-filtering properties are 3-(4′-methylbenzylidene)-dl-camphor, 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyl methoxycinnamate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts thereof.
Combination of one or more of the compounds according to the invention with further UV filters enables the protective action against damaging effects of UV radiation to be optimised.
Optimised compositions may comprise, for example, the combination of the organic UV filters 4′-methoxy-6-hydroxyflavone with 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione and 3-(4′-methylbenzylidene)-dl-camphor. This combination gives rise to broad-band protection, which can be supplemented by the addition of inorganic UV filters, such as titanium dioxide microparticles.
All the said UV filters and the compounds according to the invention can also be employed in encapsulated form. In particular, it is advantageous to employ organic UV filters in encapsulated form. In detail, the following advantages arise:
It is therefore preferred in accordance with the invention for one or more of the above-mentioned UV filters or compounds according to the invention to be in encapsulated form. It is advantageous here for the capsules to be so small that they cannot be viewed with the naked eye. In order to achieve the above-mentioned effects, it is furthermore necessary for the capsules to be sufficiently stable and the encapsulated active compound (UV filter) only to be released to the environment to a small extent, or not at all.
Suitable capsules can have walls of inorganic or organic polymers. For example, U.S. Pat. No. 6,242,099 B1 describes the production of suitable capsules with walls of chitin, chitin derivatives or polyhydroxylated polyamines. Capsules particularly preferably to be employed in accordance with the invention have walls which can be obtained by a sol-gel process, as described in the applications WO 00/09652, WO 00/72806 and WO 00/71084. Preference is again given here to capsules whose walls are built up from silica gel (silica; undefined silicon oxide hydroxide). The production of corresponding capsules is known to the person skilled in the art, for example from the cited patent applications, whose contents expressly also belong to the subject-matter of the present application.
The capsules in compositions according to the invention are preferably present in amounts which ensure that the encapsulated UV filters are pre-sent in the composition in the above-indicated amounts.
The compositions according to the invention may in addition comprise further conventional skin-protecting or skin-care active compounds. These may in principle be any active compounds known to the person skilled in the art.
Particularly preferred active compounds are pyrimidinecarboxylic acids and/or aryl oximes.
Pyrimidinecarboxylic acids occur in halophilic microorganisms and play a role in osmoregulation of these organisms (E. A. Galinski et al., Eur. J. Biochem., 149 (1985) pages 135-139). Of the pyrimidinecarboxylic acids, particular mention should be made here of ectoine ((S)-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid) and hydroxyectoine ((S,S)-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-5-hydroxy-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid and derivatives thereof. These compounds stabilise enzymes and other biomolecules in aqueous solutions and organic solvents. Furthermore, they stabilise, in particular, enzymes against denaturing conditions, such as salts, extreme pH values, surfactants, urea, guanidinium chloride and other compounds.
Ectoine and ectoine derivatives, such as hydroxyectoine, can advantageously be used in medicaments. In particular, hydroxyectoine can be employed for the preparation of a medicament for the treatment of skin diseases. Other areas of application of hydroxyectoine and other ectoine derivatives are typically in areas in which, for example, trehalose is used as additive. Thus, ectoine derivatives, such as hydroxyectoine, can be used as protectant in dried yeast and bacteria cells. Pharmaceutical products, such as non-glycosylated, pharmaceutical active peptides and proteins, for example t-PA, can also be protected with ectoine or its derivatives.
Of the cosmetic applications, particular mention should be made of the use of ectoine and ectoine derivatives for the care of aged, dry or irritated skin. Thus, European patent application EP-A-0 671 161 describes, in particular, that ectoine and hydroxyectoine are employed in cosmetic compositions, such as powders, soaps, surfactant-containing cleansing products, lipsticks, rouge, make-up, care creams and sunscreen preparations.
Preference is given here to the use of a pyrimidinecarboxylic acid of the following formula
in which R1 is a radical H or C1-8-alkyl, R2 is a radical H or C1-4-alkyl, and R3, R4, R5 and R6 are each, independently of one another, a radical from the group H, OH, NH2 and C1-4-alkyl. Preference is given to the use of pyrimidinecarboxylic acids in which R2 is a methyl or ethyl group, and R1 or R5 and R6 are H. Particular preference is given to the use of the pyrimidinecarboxylic acids ectoine ((S)-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid) and hydroxyectoine ((S,S)-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-5-hydroxy-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid). The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise pyrimidinecarboxylic acids of this type in amounts of up to 15% by weight. The pyrimidinecarboxylic acids are preferably employed here in ratios of 100:1 to 1:100 with respect to the compounds according to the invention, with ratios in the range 1:10 to 10:1 being particularly preferred.
Of the aryl oximes, preference is given to the use of 2-hydroxy-5-methyllaurophenone oxime, which is also known as HMLO, LPO or F5. Its suitability for use in cosmetic compositions is disclosed, for example, in DE-A-41 16 123. Compositions which comprise 2-hydroxy-5-methyllaurophenone oxime are accordingly suitable for the treatment of skin diseases which are associated with inflammation. It is known that compositions of this type can be used, for example, for the therapy of psoriasis, various forms of eczema, irritative and toxic dermatitis, UV dermatitis and further allergic and/or inflammatory diseases of the skin and skin appendages. Compositions according to the invention which, in addition to the compound of the formula I, additionally comprise an aryl oxime, preferably 2-hydroxy-5-methyllaurophenone oxime, exhibit surprising anti-inflammatory suitability. The compositions here preferably comprise 0.01 to 10% by weight of the aryl oxime, it being particularly preferred for the composition to comprise 0.05 to 5% by weight of aryl oxime.
In a further, likewise preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one self-tanning agent.
Advantageous self-tanning agents which can be employed are, inter alia, trioses and tetroses, such as, for example, the following compounds:
Mention should also be made of 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (juglone), which can be extracted from the shells of fresh walnuts, and 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (lawsone), which occurs in henna leaves. The flavonoid diosmetin and its glycosides or sulfates can also be employed. These compounds can be employed here in the form of pure substances or plant extracts. Diosmetin can preferably be employed, for example, in the form of a chrysanthemum extract.
Very particular preference is given to 1,3-dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a tri-functional sugar which occurs in the human body, and derivatives thereof.
The said self-tanning agents can be employed alone or as a mixture. It is particularly preferred here for DHA to be employed in a mixture with a further self-tanning agent of those mentioned above, in particular in combination with erythrulose.
It has been found that the combination of self-tanning agents with the compounds according to the invention results in accelerated tanning compared with the use of the self-tanning agents alone. The present invention therefore furthermore relates to the corresponding use of the compounds according to the invention for accelerating the tanning action of self-tanning agents.
All compounds or components which can be used in the compositions are either known and commercially available or can be synthesised by known processes.
The one or more compounds according to the invention can be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological compositions in a conventional manner. Suitable compositions are those for external use, for example in the form of a cream, lotion, gel or as a solution which can be sprayed onto the skin. Suitable for internal use are administration forms such as capsules, coated tablets, powders, tablet solutions or solutions.
Examples which may be mentioned of use forms of the compositions according to the invention are: solutions, suspensions, emulsions, PIT emulsions, pastes, ointments, gels, creams, lotions, powders, soaps, surfactant-containing cleansing preparations, oils, aerosols and sprays. Examples of other application forms are sticks, shampoos and shower compositions. Any desired customary vehicles, auxiliaries and, if desired, further active compounds may be added to the composition.
Preferred auxiliaries originate from the group of the preservatives, antioxidants, stabilisers, solubilisers, vitamins, colorants, odour improvers.
Ointments, pastes, creams and gels may comprise the customary vehicles, for example animal and vegetable fats, waxes, paraffins, starch, tragacanth, cellulose derivatives, polyethylene glycols, silicones, bentonites, silica, talc and zinc oxide, or mixtures of these substances.
Powders and sprays may comprise the customary vehicles, for example lactose, talc, silica, aluminium hydroxide, calcium silicate and polyamide powder, or mixtures of these substances. Sprays may additionally comprise the customary propellants, for example chlorofluorocarbons, propane/butane or dimethyl ether.
Solutions and emulsions may comprise the customary vehicles, such as solvents, solubilisers and emulsifiers, for example water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, 1,3-butyl glycol, oils, in particular cottonseed oil, peanut oil, wheatgerm oil, olive oil, castor oil and sesame oil, glycerol fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycols and fatty acid esters of sorbitan, or mixtures of these substances.
Suspensions may comprise the customary vehicles, such as liquid diluents, for example water, ethanol or propylene glycol, suspension media, for example ethoxylated isostearyl alcohols, polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters and polyoxyethylene sorbitan esters, microcrystalline cellulose, aluminium metahydroxide, bentonite, agar-agar and tragacanth, or mixtures of these substances.
Soaps may comprise the customary vehicles, such as alkali metal salts of fatty acids, salts of fatty acid monoesters, fatty acid protein hydrolysates, isothionates, lanolin, fatty alcohol, vegetable oils, plant extracts, glycerol, sugars, or mixtures of these substances.
Surfactant-containing cleansing products may comprise the customary vehicles, such as salts of fatty alcohol sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, sulfosuccinic acid monoesters, fatty acid protein hydrolysates, isothionates, imidazolinium derivatives, methyl taurates, sarcosinates, fatty acid amide ether sulfates, alkylamidobetaines, fatty alcohols, fatty acid glycerides, fatty acid diethanolamides, vegetable and synthetic oils, lanolin derivatives, ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters, or mixtures of these substances.
Face and body oils may comprise the customary vehicles, such as synthetic oils, such as fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, silicone oils, natural oils, such as vegetable oils and oily plant extracts, paraffin oils, lanolin oils, or mixtures of these substances.
Further typical cosmetic application forms are also lipsticks, lip-care sticks, mascara, eyeliner, eye shadow, rouge, powder make-up, emulsion make-up and wax make-up, and sunscreen, pre-sun and after-sun preparations.
The preferred composition forms according to the invention include, in particular, emulsions.
Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and comprise, for example, the said fats, oils, waxes and other lipids, as well as water and an emulsifier, as usually used for a composition of this type.
The lipid phase may advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:
For the purposes of the present invention, the oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions is advantageously selected from the group of the esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, or from the group of the esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Ester oils of this type can then advantageously be selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of esters of this type, for example jojoba oil.
The oil phase may furthermore advantageously be selected from the group of the branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, the group of the saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, specifically the triglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides may advantageously be selected, for example, from the group of the synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soya oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
Any desired mixtures of oil and wax components of this type may also advantageously be employed for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to employ waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the only lipid component of the oil phase.
The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C12-15-alkyl benzoate, caprylic/capric acid triglyceride, dicapryl ether.
Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate, as well as mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene may advantageously be used for the purposes of the present invention.
Furthermore, the oil phase may also advantageously have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of oils of this type, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil-phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
The silicone oil to be used in accordance with the invention is advantageously cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane). However, it is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use other silicone oils, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly(methylphenylsiloxane).
Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.
The aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention optionally advantageously comprises alcohols, diols or polyols having a low carbon number, and ethers thereof, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore alcohols having a low carbon number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol, and, in particular, one or more thickeners, which may advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminium silicates, polysaccharides and derivatives thereof, for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of the polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of the so-called Carbopols, for example Carbopol grades 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, in each case individually or in combination.
In particular, a mixture of the above-mentioned solvents is used. In the case of alcoholic solvents, water may be a further constituent.
Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and comprise, for example, the said fats, oils, waxes and other lipids, as well as water and an emulsifier, as usually used for a formulation of this type.
In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise hydrophilic surfactants.
The hydrophilic surfactants are preferably selected from the group of the alkylglucosides, acyl lactylates, betaines and coconut amphoacetates.
The alkylglucosides are themselves advantageously selected from the group of the alkylglucosides which are distinguished by the structural formula
where R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and where
The value
in which p1, p2, p3 . . . pi represent the proportion of mono-, di-, tri- . . . i-fold glucosylated products in percent by weight. Advantageous in accordance with the invention is the selection of products having degrees of glucosylation of 1-2, particularly advantageously of 1.1 to 1.5, very particularly advantageously of 1.2-1.4, in particular of 1.3.
The value DP takes into account the fact that alkylglucosides are generally, as a consequence of their preparation, in the form of mixtures of mono- and oligoglucosides. A relatively high content of monoglucosides, typically in the order of 40-70% by weight, is advantageous in accordance with the invention.
Alkylglycosides which are particularly advantageously used in accordance with the invention are selected from the group octyl glucopyranoside, nonyl glucopyranoside, decyl glucopyranoside, undecyl glucopyranoside, dodecyl glucopyranoside, tetradecyl glucopyranoside and hexadecyl glucopyranoside.
It is likewise advantageous to employ natural or synthetic raw materials and auxiliaries or mixtures which are distinguished by an effective content of the active compounds used in accordance with the invention, for example Plantaren® 1200 (Henkel KGaA), Oramix® NS 10 (Seppic).
The acyllactylates are themselves advantageously selected from the group of the substances which are distinguished by the structural formula
where R1 denotes a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, and M+ is selected from the group of the alkali metal ions and the group of ammonium ions which are substituted by one or more alkyl and/or one or more hydroxyalkyl radicals, or corresponds to half an equivalent of an alkaline earth metal ion.
For example, sodium isostearyl lactylate, for example the product Pathionic® ISL from the American Ingredients Company, is advantageous.
The betaines are advantageously selected from the group of the sub-stances which are distinguished by the structural formula
where R2 denotes a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms.
R2 particularly advantageously denotes a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 6 to 12 carbon atoms.
For example, capramidopropylbetaine, for example the product Tego® Betain 810 from Th. Goldschmidt AG, is advantageous.
A coconut amphoacetate which is advantageous in accordance with the invention is, for example, sodium coconut amphoacetate, as available under the name Miranol® Ultra C32 from Miranol Chemical Corp.
The compositions according to the invention are advantageously characterised in that the hydrophilic surfactant(s) is (are) present in concentrations of 0.01-20% by weight, preferably 0.05-10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.
For use, the cosmetic and dermatological compositions according to the invention are applied to the skin and/or the hair in an adequate amount in the usual manner for cosmetics.
Cosmetic and dermatological compositions according to the invention can exist in various forms. Thus, they may be, for example, a solution, a waterfree composition, an emulsion or microemulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type or of the oil-in-water (O/W) type, a multiple emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) type, a gel, a solid stick, an ointment or an aerosol. It is also advantageous to administer active compounds in encapsulated form, for example in collagen matrices and other conventional encapsulation materials, for example as cellulose encapsulations, in gelatine, wax matrices or liposomally encapsulated. In particular, wax matrices, as described in DE-A 43 08 282, have proven favourable. Preference is given to emulsions. O/W emulsions are particularly preferred. Emulsions, W/O emulsions and O/W emulsions are obtainable in a conventional manner.
Emulsifiers that can be used are, for example, the known W/O and O/W emulsifiers. It is advantageous to use further conventional co-emulsifiers in the preferred O/W emulsions according to the invention.
Co-emulsifiers which are advantageous in accordance with the invention are, for example, O/W emulsifiers, principally from the group of the sub-stances having HLB values of 11-16, very particularly advantageously having HLB values of 14.5-15.5, so long as the O/W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R′. If the O/W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and/or R′ or in the case of isoalkyl derivatives, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers may also be lower or higher.
It is advantageous to select the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Particular preference is given to the following: polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether (steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20), polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20), polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether (ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20), polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20), polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15), polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (isolaureth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-20).
It is furthermore advantageous to select the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate, polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate,
The ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or salt thereof used can advantageously be sodium laureth-11 carboxylate. An alkyl ether sulfate which can advantageously be used is sodium laureth-14 sulfate. An ethoxylated cholesterol derivative which can advantageously be used is polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven successful. Ethoxylated triglycerides which can advantageously be used are the polyethylene glycol (60) evening primrose glycerides.
It is furthermore advantageous to select the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate/caprinate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate/cocoate.
It is likewise favourable to select the sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.
Optional W/O emulsifiers, but ones which may nevertheless be advantageously employed in accordance with the invention are the following:
fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, C atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, C atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, C atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, C atoms, and sorbitan esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, C atoms.
Particularly advantageous W/O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.
Compositions which are preferred in accordance with the invention are particularly suitable for protecting human skin against ageing processes and against oxidative stress, i.e. against damage caused by free radicals, as are generated, for example, by solar irradiation, heat or other influences. In this connection, they are in the various administration forms usually used for this application. For example, they may, in particular, be in the form of a lotion or emulsion, such as in the form of a cream or milk (O/W, W/O, O/W/O, W/O/W), in the form of oily-alcoholic, oily-aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gels or solutions, in the form of solid sticks or may be formulated as an aerosol.
The composition may comprise cosmetic adjuvants which are usually used in this type of composition, such as, for example, thickeners, softeners, moisturisers, surface-active agents, emulsifiers, preservatives, antifoams, perfumes, waxes, lanolin, propellants, dyes and/or pigments which colour the composition itself or the skin, and other ingredients usually used in cosmetics.
The dispersant or solubiliser used can be an oil, wax or other lipid, a lower monoalcohol or lower polyol or mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred monoalcohols or polyols include ethanol, i-propanol, propylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol.
A preferred embodiment of the invention is an emulsion in the form of a protective cream or milk which, in addition to the compound(s) according to the invention, comprises, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, in particular triglycerides of fatty acids, lanolin, natural and synthetic oils or waxes and emulsifiers in the presence of water.
Further preferred embodiments are oily lotions based on natural or synthetic oils and waxes, lanolin, fatty acid esters, in particular triglycerides of fatty acids, or oily-alcoholic lotions based on a lower alcohol, such as ethanol, or a glycerol, such as propylene glycol, and/or a polyol, such as glycerol, and oils, waxes and fatty acid esters, such as triglycerides of fatty acids.
The composition according to the invention may also be in the form of an alcoholic gel which comprises one or more lower alcohols or polyols, such as ethanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, and a thickener, such as siliceous earth. The oily-alcoholic gels also comprise natural or synthetic oil or wax.
The solid sticks consist of natural or synthetic waxes and oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, lanolin and other lipids.
If a composition is formulated as an aerosol, the customary propellants, such as alkanes, fluoroalkanes and chlorofluoroalkanes, are generally used.
The cosmetic composition may also be used to protect the hair against photochemical damage in order to prevent colour changes, bleaching or damage of a mechanical nature. In this case, a suitable formulation is in the form of a rinse-out shampoo, lotion, gel or emulsion, the composition in question being applied before or after shampooing, before or after colouring or bleaching or before or after permanent waving. It is also possible to select a composition in the form of a lotion or gel for styling and treating the hair, in the form of a lotion or gel for brushing or blow-waving, in the form of a hair lacquer, permanent waving composition, colorant or bleach for the hair. Besides the compound(s) according to the invention, the composition having light-protection properties may comprise various adjuvants used in this type of composition, such as surface-active agents, thickeners, polymers, softeners, preservatives, foam stabilisers, electrolytes, organic solvents, silicone derivatives, oils, waxes, antigrease agents, dyes and/or pigments which colour the composition itself or the hair, or other ingredients usually used for hair care.
The present invention furthermore relates to a process for the preparation of a composition which is characterised in that at least one compound of the formula I is mixed with a vehicle which is suitable cosmetically or dermatologically or for foods or for household products, and to the use of a compound of the formula I for the preparation of a composition having antioxidant properties.
The compositions according to the invention can be prepared with the aid of techniques which are well known to the person skilled in the art.
The mixing can result in dissolution, emulsification or dispersion of the compound according to the invention in the vehicle.
The compounds of the formula I en indicated and the further reactants in the synthesis are commercially available or are accessible by syntheses which are well known to the person skilled in the art from the literature. The choice of suitable reaction conditions for the synthesis thereof is part of the standard knowledge of the person skilled in the art of synthesis. The synthesis can also be carried out analogously to the synthesis of some compounds of the formula I which is described in DE 3321679.
In a process which is preferred in accordance with the invention, the compound of the formula I is prepared by hydrogenation of at least one compound of the formula I en
and the radicals Ar and R1 correspond to those of the desired formula I.
Molecular hydrogen, for example, is suitable for the hydrogenation. If molecular hydrogen is used for the hydrogenation of the compounds of the formula I en, the hydrogenation is preferably carried out in the presence of a catalyst or catalyst system.
Suitable catalysts for the hydrogenation are all common homogeneous and heterogeneous catalysts, particular preference is given to the use of at least one noble metal, preferably selected from the elements Pt, Pd and Rh, or a transition metal, such as Mo, W, Cr, but particularly Fe, Co and Ni, either individually or in a mixture. The catalyst(s) or catalyst mixture(s) here may also be employed on supports, such as carbon, activated carbon, aluminium oxide, barium carbonate, barium sulfate, calcium carbonate, strontium carbonate or kieselguhr. The metal here may also be employed in the form of the Raney compound, for example Raney nickel. If the catalysis is carried out in a homogeneous process, it is preferred for the catalyst employed to be one or more complex compounds of the said metals, such as, for example, Wilkinson's catalyst [chlorotris(triphenylphosphine)rhodium]. It is furthermore possible to employ salts of the said metals, which can be reduced in situ by a reducing agent and form a finely divided metal(0) species in situ. Suitable noble-metal salts are, for example, palladium acetate, palladium bromide and palladium chloride, suitable reducing agents are, for example, hydrogen, hydrazine, sodium borohydride and formates. In a preferred variant of the present invention, a heterogeneous catalyst is employed, it being particularly preferred for the catalyst employed in the process according to the invention to be Pd or Pt, preferably on activated-carbon support, for example 5% by weight of Pd or Pt on C.
It has been found here that the alkenols according to the invention, such as, for example, the compounds of the formulae II, III and IV, preferably obtained by means of sodium borohydride, and the alkanones according to the invention, such as, for example, the compounds of the formulae V, VI and VII, are preferably obtained by hydrogenation using elemental hydrogen. The compounds of the formula VIII are prepared by combination of the hydrogenation methods indicated.
The hydrogenation is usually carried out at a temperature in the range from 20-150° C. The hydrogenation is furthermore advantageously carried out at a hydrogen pressure of 1 to 200 bar.
Suitable solvents are protic solvents, in particular the usual protic solvents known to the person skilled in the art, such as water, lower alcohols, such as, for example, methanol, ethanol and isopropanol, and primary and secondary amines, and mixtures of protic solvents of this type, where it may be particularly preferred for the solvent employed to be water.
Suitable solvents for this reaction are furthermore also conventional aprotic solvents. For example, diethyl ether, tetrahydrofuran, benzene, toluene, acetonitrile, dimethoxyethane, dimethylformamide, dimethyl sulfoxide and N-methylpyrrolidone can be employed.
In a likewise preferred embodiment of the preparation process according to the invention, the hydrogenation is carried out in the solid state, i.e. no additional solvent is necessary.
When the reaction is complete, the work-up can be carried out by conventional methods. For example, the catalyst can be filtered off, the filtrate freed from solvent, for example by heating at reduced pressure compared with atmospheric pressure, and the resultant product purified further by conventional methods.
The further purification of the reaction products can likewise be carried out by conventional methods, for example by recrystallisation from a suitable solvent, or by chromatographic methods.
It has also been observed that compounds according to the invention can have a stabilising effect on the composition. When used in corresponding products, the latter therefore also remain stable for longer and do not change their pharmaceutical and sensory nature. In particular, the efficacy of the ingredients, for example vitamins, is retained even in the case of application over extended periods or extended storage. This is, inter alia, particularly advantageous in the case of compositions for protecting the skin against the effect of UV rays since these cosmetics are subjected to particularly high stresses by UV radiation.
The positive effects of compounds according to the invention give rise to their particular suitability for use in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions.
The properties of compounds of the formula I should likewise be regarded as positive for use in foods or as food supplements or as functional food.
The further explanations given for foods also apply correspondingly to food supplements and functional food.
The foods which can be enriched in accordance with the invention with one or more compounds according to the invention include all materials which are suitable for consumption by animals or for consumption by humans, for example vitamins and provitamins thereof, fats, minerals or amino acids. (The foods may be solid, but also liquid, i.e. in the form of a beverage).
The present invention accordingly furthermore relates to the use of at least one compound of the formula I as food additive for human or animal nutrition, and to compositions which are foods or food supplements and comprise corresponding vehicles.
Foods which can be enriched in accordance with the invention with one or more compounds according to the invention are, for example, also foods which originate from a single natural source, such as, for example, sugar, unsweetened juice, squash or purée of a single plant species, such as, for example, unsweetened apple juice (for example also a mixture of different types of apple juice), grapefruit juice, orange juice, apple compote, apricot squash, tomato juice, tomato sauce, tomato purée, etc. Further examples of foods which can be enriched in accordance with the present invention with one or more compounds according to the invention are corn or cereals from a single plant species and materials produced from plant species of this type, such as, for example, cereal syrup, rye flour, wheat flour or oat bran. Mixtures of foods of this type are also suitable for being enriched in accordance with the present invention with one or more compounds according to the invention, for example multivitamin preparations, mineral mixtures or sweetened juice. As further examples of foods which can be enriched in accordance with the present invention with one or more compounds according to the invention, mention may be made of food compositions, for example prepared cereals, biscuits, mixed drinks, foods pre-pared especially for children, such as yoghurt, diet foods, low-calorie foods or animal feeds.
The foods which can be enriched in accordance with the present invention with one or more compounds according to the invention thus include all edible combinations of carbohydrates, lipids, proteins, inorganic elements, trace elements, vitamins, water or active metabolites of plants and animals.
The foods which can be enriched in accordance with the present invention with one or more compounds according to the invention are preferably administered orally, for example in the form of meals, pills, tablets, capsules, powders, syrup, solutions or suspensions.
The foods according to the invention enriched with one or more compounds according to the invention can be prepared with the aid of techniques which are well known to the person skilled in the art.
Due to their action as antioxidants or free-radical scavengers, compounds according to the invention are also suitable as medicament ingredient, where they support or replace natural mechanisms which scavenge free radicals in the body. The compounds according to the invention can in some cases be compared in their action with free-radical scavengers, such as vitamin C. Compounds according to the invention can be used, for example, for the preventative treatments of inflammation and allergies of the skin and in certain cases for preventing certain types of cancer. Compounds according to the invention are particularly suitable for the preparation of a medicament for the treatment of inflammation, allergies and irritation, in particular of the skin. It is furthermore possible to prepare medicaments which act as vein tonic, as agent for increasing the strength of blood capillaries, as cuperose inhibitor, as inhibitor of chemical, physical or actinic erythemas, as agent for the treatment of sensitive skin, as decongestant, as dehydration agent, as slimming agent, as anti-wrinkle agent, as stimulators of the synthesis of components of the extracellular matrix, as strengthening agent for improving skin elasticity, and as anti-ageing agent. Furthermore, compounds according to the invention which are preferred in this connection exhibit anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory and anti-irritative actions. They are therefore suitable for the preparation of medicaments for the treatment of inflammation or allergic reactions.
The invention is explained in greater detail below with reference to examples. The invention can be carried out throughout the scope claimed and is not restricted to the examples given here.
The hydrogenation is carried out over Pd/C (5% of Pd) in methanol at a hydrogen pressure of 1 bar and at room temperature. When the hydrogenation is complete, the batch is filtered, the solvent is stripped off in vacuo, and the residue is taken up in methyl t-butyl ether (MTBE). The mixture is then filtered through zeolite A. The solvent is removed in vacuo, giving the product as a colourless oil, which crystallises out overnight (diastereomer mixture).
A 4% solution of the substance in isopropyl myristate is prepared. In each case, 40 μl of the solution are applied to the roughened surface of 2 acrylic glass plates (7.2×2.5 cm). One plate is subsequently irradiated in a solar simulator (Atlas CPS+) for 1 h 50 min with cooling. The sample is subsequently transferred into a 50 ml measuring cylinder and covered with 40 ml of isopropanol for extraction in the ultrasound bath. The sample volume is subsequently made up to precisely 50 ml, and the absorption is measured at 300 nm. An unirradiated batch treated analogously serves as comparison. The absorption can be increased by 22% from 0.094 (dark batch) to 0.115 by the irradiation step.
4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor is dissolved in ethanol and subsequently reduced with addition of NaBH4. When the reduction is complete, excess NaBH4 is expelled by addition of 2 N HCl at 0° C. The mother liquor is concentrated. The precipitate forming in the process is rinsed with ethyl ether and subsequently extracted a number of times with MTBE/NH4Cl. The combined organic phases are dried over sodium sulfate, and the solvent is removed in vacuo, giving a pale-yellow oil, from which the product crystallises out as a white solid after addition of heptane.
In principle, all compounds of the formula I can be prepared analogously to Examples 1 or 2, where the alkenols are preferably hydrogenated by means of sodium borohydride and the alkanones preferably by means of elemental hydrogen:
On irradiation with UV light, the UV spectrum of the compounds according to the invention changes.
The irradiation here can be carried out by means of an Atlas Sun Test CPS, xenon lamp with UV special-glass filter at a power of 95.69 W/m2 in the range 290-400 nm.
On irradiation with UV light, emulsions comprising compounds according to the invention and beta-carotene show that absorption of the beta-carotene (Emax in the range 440-480 nm) is considerably greater in the samples according to the invention compared with those which comprise only beta-carotene. Consequently, the degradation of beta-carotene in the emulsion according to the invention is reduced; the compounds according to the invention stabilise the beta-carotene.
The free-radical-reducing action of the compounds according to the invention can be demonstrated, for example, by means of methods as described in the publication Buenger, J., Ackermann, H., Jentzsch, A., Mehling, A., Pfizner, I., Reiffen, K.-A., Schroeder, K.-R., and Wollenweber U., An interlaboratory comparison of methods used to assess antioxidant potentials, Int. J. Cosm. Sci., 28 (2006) pp. 1-12.
Illustrative formulations of cosmetic compositions which comprise compounds according to Example 1 or 2 are indicated below. Corresponding compositions can be prepared in the same way with all compounds according to the invention.
In addition, the INCl names of the commercially available compounds are indicated.
UV-Pearl, OMC stands for the composition having the INCl name:
Water (for EU: Aqua), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Silica, PVP, chlorophenesin, BHT; this composition is commercially available from Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, under the name Eusolex®UV Pearl™OMC.
The other UV-Pearls indicated in the tables each have an analogous composition, with OMC being replaced by the UV filters indicated.
Persea Gratissima
Persea Gratissima
Persea Gratissima
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 2006 019 043.2 | Apr 2006 | DE | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind | 371c Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP07/02648 | 3/26/2007 | WO | 00 | 10/24/2008 |
