This application claims the benefit under 35 U.S.C. 119 of European Patent Application EP 09 30 5876.6, filed Sep. 21, 2009, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.
This invention relates to a method of manufacturing applicator brushes having decorated fibers and to an applicator brush obtained by such a method.
Cosmetic applicator brushes, and in particular, mascara brushes, are typically made using black synthetic fiber, such as Nylon. A typical fiber diameter is 4 mils (i.e. 0.1 millimeter).
There is, however, an increasing demand for cosmetic brushes to have differently colored fibers and/or fibers that are individually multi-colored, on the same brush. The reasons for this include:
Currently, the fiber used for mascara brushes is typically manufactured by specialist companies using multi-filament extrusion. The fiber is subsequently fed into a brush-making machine typically located elsewhere, at a second specialist company. Although in theory it may be possible to run colored fiber in this process, and although the decorative effect could be enhanced by running different colored fibers next to each other into the brush-making machine, such an approach is hampered by the difficulty of changing over color on an extrusion line. In particular, the cost of color changeover, by virtue of the necessity to completely purge the extrusion equipment in order to remove even the slightest traces of the previous pigmentation, renders colored fiber both expensive and subject to minimum quantities. Also, the perturbation that such changes create implies that lead-times for special colors are relatively long. As a result, the use of colored fibers today is limited, despite the perceived level of demand. Black thus remains the most common color, by far.
Although it is possible to mass extrude fibers so that all the fibers of a brush are the same color, this would only be of a very limited use.
There is therefore a need to be able to more easily produce smaller quantities of colored fiber with a short lead-time, and at the same time to have the possibility of a wider range of decorative effects.
In accordance with an aspect of the invention there is provided a method of manufacturing an applicator brush, the method comprising:
In an embodiment, the outer colored region is the result of color infiltration up to a radial depth of approximately 20 μm.
In an embodiment, the step of decorating the fibers results in at least two distinctly colored regions.
In an embodiment, the step of decorating the fibers includes the step of decorating an individual fiber with a color that is different to another individual fiber for the same brush.
Alternatively, or in addition, the step of decorating the fibers includes the step of decorating an individual fiber with at least two colors.
In an embodiment, the step of providing a plurality of fibers includes the step of providing a multiplicity of fibers, and the step of fitting the decorated fibers includes the step of radially fitting the multiplicity of fibers to the stem.
In an embodiment, the step of decorating the fibers includes the step of distinguishing the at least one colored region so that when fitted to the stem, the at least one colored region is distinguishable axially along the length of the stem, radially relative to the stem or circumferentially around the stem, or a combination of these.
In an embodiment, the step of using dye sublimation includes the step of bringing the fibers into contact with a carrier medium carrying a dye to be transferred and applying heat to the carrier medium.
In an embodiment, the method comprises printing the dye according to a pattern that corresponds to the at least one colored region.
In an embodiment, the carrier medium is sandwiched between a heated cylinder or a heated platen and a backing.
In an embodiment, the backing is also heated.
In an embodiment, the carrier medium is paper and the dye is contained in ink printed onto the paper.
In an embodiment, the carrier medium carries at least two differently colored inks so as to define the distinctly colored region.
In an embodiment, the method comprises bundling a plurality of fibers and decorating the bundled fibers so as to define the at least one colored region.
The applicator brush can be a cosmetic applicator brush for use in applying cosmetic product.
In particular, the cosmetic applicator brush can be a mascara applicator brush and the cosmetic product is mascara.
Alternatively, the applicator brush can be a toothbrush.
Referring first to
In an embodiment, as shown in
Alternatively, as shown in
Although the colored regions 22, 24, 26 are shown as being perfectly aligned across the fibers 14, it should be appreciated that in practice this may be difficult to achieve using conventional brush making machinery. Thus, although the fibers 14 have distinctly colored regions 22, 24, 26 along each fiber, each individual fiber would typically be cut and mounted randomly. As a result, the regions 22, 24, 26 may not in practice be as clearly defined as illustrated in
Accordingly, the embodiment shown in
The versions shown in
In an embodiment, the cosmetic applicator brush 10 is a mascara applicator brush and the cosmetic product is mascara, with the stem 12 being connectable to a handle component 32.
The coloring of the decorated fibers 14 may be achieved using dye sublimation. Coloring synthetic fibers using dye sublimation is well known, in which dyes are absorbed, under heat, by the fiber. These dyes are typically contained in inks printed onto a carrier medium, such as paper, which is brought into contact with the fibers exclusively for the transfer of the dye contained inside the ink. Sublimation has the distinct advantage over other decorative processes in that the dye is sealed inside the fiber, and therefore presents a maximum degree of resistance for exposure to products, such as mascara. There is in addition no risk of flaking off or loss of adhesion as may be the case for alternative surface inks or coatings. Because the sublimation technique commences with a multi-color printing process, image manipulation can be used to create a wide variety of colors and patterns, as indicated above, not just uniform single colors. This increases the range of effects possible.
A unique feature of the cosmetic applicator brush 10 is thus that the sublimation process is carried out before the fibers 14 are fitted to the stem 12 to define the brush 10. Sublimation on textiles, for example, is carried out after weaving, and the final decoration is essentially flat, so that individual adjacent fibers cannot be decorated differently. In the present invention, however, a three-dimensional object, namely a mascara brush 10, is created after sublimation. Such a process thus allows the manipulation of decorative effects not possible by conventional techniques.
A side-by-side comparison between a cross-sectional view of a prior art pigmented, extruded fiber and a cross-sectional view of a fiber used in the present invention is useful, and will now be described with reference to
Turning now to
The method 50 further comprises decorating the fibers so as to define at least one colored region, as indicated by block 54. In an embodiment, the step of decorating the fibers includes the step of decorating an individual fiber with a color that is different to another individual fiber for the same brush. Alternatively, or in addition, the step of decorating the fibers includes the step of decorating an individual fiber with at least two colors.
The method 50 concludes by radially fitting the decorated fibers to a stem so as to define a cosmetic applicator brush, as indicated by block 56.
The step of decorating the fibers may include the step of distinguishing the at least one colored region so that when fitted to the stem, the at least one colored region is distinguishable axially along the length of the stem, radially relative to the stem or circumferentially around the stem, or a combination of these.
In an embodiment, the step of decorating the fibers so as to define at least one colored region includes the step of coloring the fibers using dye sublimation. In one version, the step of using dye sublimation includes the step of bringing the fibers into contact with a carrier medium, such as paper, carrying an ink dye to be transferred, and applying heat to the carrier medium. The heat causes the dye to sublimate from the carrier medium into the fiber and thus become sealed within the fiber.
The method may comprise printing the ink dye according to a pattern that corresponds to the distinctly colored regions. Thus, the pattern to be sublimated is prepared in full knowledge of the brush-making process in order to obtain the decorative effect desired. The pattern may be printed onto a carrier medium in any one of a number of conventional printing processes, such as ink-jet, gravure, and offset, whereby the image to be printed may be generated from electronic artwork. Typically, the carrier medium used to hold the printed image is in the form of web, since long lengths of fiber are ultimately to be decorated. For example, a production run might be of 100,000 brushes, which, at 12 mm per brush, translates into a requirement of 1200 meters (i.e. 1.2 kilometers)
In an embodiment, the carrier medium is sandwiched between a heated cylinder or a heated platen (provided the fiber advance could be stopped and started accordingly) and a backing.
Advantageously, the backing may be heated. The reason for this is that the decoration of individual fibers by dye sublimation introduces an effect that is less noticeable with woven fabrics, namely a heat sink phenomenon. A normal sublimation process can be carried out with a heated cylinder or platen and a cold backing. It was found, however, that because the backing is considerably more exposed in single fiber decoration, there is a more significant heat sink effect. To compensate for this, it has been found that pressure has to be optimized. However, if too much pressure is applied, the heat sink effect has a larger effect, and the exposure time to ensure dye transfer has to be increased by as much as if there was much less nip pressure.
It has equally been found that if a cold backing is used, higher temperatures are required to ensure the same amount of sublimation. Since the melting point of the polymer being decorated is around 250° C., there is a real danger of deforming the fibers with heat.
The heat sink effect also manifests itself in the overall cycle time of the process. If a cold backing is used, and the nip pressure is optimized, depending on the temperature, about 10 to 20 seconds is required in order to get full transfer.
It has been found, however, that if the backing is heated, the cycle time for an equivalent degree of dye transfer can be reduced by at least ten times, and temperatures can be also dropped closer to 205° C., which is a typical temperature required for sublimation. This is important, in that the melting point of the polymer is around 250° C., and an increased difference between this temperature and sublimation temperature will ensure that fibers are not deformed.
It has to be added that the exposure of individual fibers to tension under heat creates potential risks of undesired fiber elongation if careful tension control is not employed.
In a further embodiment, the method comprises bundling a plurality of fibers and decorating the bundled fibers so as to define at least one colored region. It was also discovered that a simplification of the process could be achieved by bundling the fibers, i.e. allowing some degree of overlap, avoiding the need to range the fibers individually, but spreading them out enough in order to get some degree of transfer on a sufficient number the fibers as to create a sufficient visual effect.
The final step of fitting the decorated fibers to a stem so as to define a cosmetic applicator brush is carried out on specialized machines such as manufactured by, for example, Zahoransky. A typical speed of such a machine may be 60 brushes a minute, a typical fiber length consumed per brush before trimming may be 12 mm, so an in-line printing device should have a speed of at least 60×12/1000 meters/minute=0.72 meters per minute. An off-line system could run considerably faster, if the dye sublimation process allows it.
The dye sublimation process may be carried out either in-line with extrusion, as an independent spool-to-spool process, or in line with brush-making, but in any case before the brush-making process. If the fiber is running from a spool, i.e. not in line with the extrusion process, the spool is unwound, the pattern transferred to the individual fibers in a heat transfer press, cooled, and then rewound (unless it runs directly into a brush-making machine).
Two types of sublimation printing processes may be used. The first is an indexing system, which temporarily stops the fiber so that it can be decorated by a descending platen. The second is a continuous rotary system, in which cylinders turn without stopping.
Trials were conducted on a platen principle, using a prescribed carrier paper decorated by ink-jet, and printed with Sawgrass sublimation inks. When decoration was carried out using a heated silicone die platen and room temperature backing, with the silicon die surface temperature ranging from 200° C. to 260° C., the cycle time needed for dye transfer was in the order of 10 seconds or more, and preferably at least 15 seconds at about 240° C. at the heated silicone surface. It was found, however, that, in order to avoid the heat sink effect caused by the colder backing, as described above, platen pressure had to be optimized, and that the optimum pressure allowed the fiber and carrier paper to be moved around in the nip. If the nip was reduced, dye transfer was lessened.
It was, however, also discovered that if the same process was carried out using a heated backing, at a temperature similar to the platen, cycle times could be reduced by at least 10 times, to around between 1 and 2 seconds, with the silicone die temperature being reduced to about 205° C. The conclusion was thus that in the previous case, the lack of a heated backing caused a heat sink.
The invention has been described above with reference to a cosmetic applicator brush. However, with reference now to
The present invention thus provides an applicator brush, whether a cosmetic applicator brush or a toothbrush, having differently colored fibers and/or fibers that are individually multi-colored, on the same brush. The invention extends to a method for making such an applicator brush in a convenient, versatile and time-efficient manner.
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