The present invention relates to an applicator for applying at least one fibre to human keratin materials, in particular for filling out and/or lengthening the eyelashes and/or eyebrows, or hair fibres.
Many people have a row of eyelashes that comprises few eyelashes. This is the case in particular for the elderly or people having a ruddy or fair complexion. Other people have a row of eyelashes that is fairly full but has local areas without eyelashes. Such people might like to add fibres to their rows of eyelashes in order to remedy these situations and thus achieve more attractive rows. However, only a few solutions exist that meet the need to increase the number of eyelashes in these situations of a “sparse row” or “incomplete row”.
One solution consists in going to a specialized institute in order to have individual fibres stuck on. The operator positions a first eyelash, using tweezers, and a first fibre, at the end of which she puts a drop of quick-setting glue, which is generally ethyl cyanoacrylate. She attaches the fibre to another eyelash, waits for the glue to set and then releases the tweezers. People with sparse or incomplete rows are reluctant to employ this approach because they fear that this treatment will harm their eyelashes, or even make them fall out. People who are especially susceptible to this fear prefer not to take the risk. Moreover, the operation is very expensive on account of the time taken by the operator.
Another solution consists in positioning small locks of fibres with a small amount of adhesive at the end. However, these small locks, which may be suitable when the rows are fairly full, are unsatisfactory for people with sparse rows because they confer an inhomogeneous and artificial appearance. These small locks can be located using applicator tools or tweezers. However, as in the case of sparse rows, this approach is not suitable for people who have incomplete rows, since it is easy to tell the difference between the area provided with eyelashes and the area without eyelashes and filled in by added small locks. Tests have been carried out to improve the approach by replacing the small locks with individual fibres. These tests have not been successful since, although the application of one fibre is possible, the application of the next one may very well impair the alignment of the first one, and so on. Moreover, the operation is extremely long.
Another approach consists in using mascara. However, the result is far from satisfactory since it tends to stick the eyelashes together and can thus worsen the sparse appearance and make the bare areas of incomplete rows more visible. Special mascaras have been developed for sparse rows, using a brush that deposits a minimum of material. This avoids the sticking of fibres and makes the tip of the eyelashes visible, but the result is not strong enough to give sparse or incomplete rows a full appearance.
FR 2 957 760 relates to an element for the application of fibres on human keratinous fibres, comprising fibres held together in a predefined way by a liquefiable adhesive in the solid form, the liquefying of the adhesive on application making it possible for at least a portion of the fibres to separate from the element.
FR 3 039 368 relates to a cosmetic treatment method, comprising the steps consisting in applying an adhesive composition to human keratin materials, especially the skin, bringing fibres borne by an applicator into contact with said adhesive composition present on said keratin materials, moving the applicator away from the skin, so as to release fibres which adhere to said keratin materials, the holding force for holding the fibres on the applicator being lower than the adhesive force for adhesion of the fibres to the adhesive composition present on said keratin materials.
Therefore, there is a need to make it possible to embellish human keratin fibres, in particular a row of eyelashes or eyebrows, by addition of individual fibres so as to confer or give back a natural and full appearance, in particular the case of sparse or incomplete rows.
Applicator
According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to an applicator for applying at least one fibre to human keratin materials, in particular for filling out and/or lengthening the eyelashes and/or eyebrows, having at least one channel into which a fibre is inserted, this channel being defined by at least one portion that, in section, entirely surrounds the fibre and has at least one end-of-travel stop that limits the insertion of the fibre.
By virtue of the invention, a fibre applicator is provided which makes it possible to fill out and/or lengthen the eyelashes and/or eyebrows.
In particular, the invention allows people who have a sparse row or an incomplete row to apply fibres so as to re-establish a normally full row without any bare areas. It also allows people who have a row of eyelashes that is already fairly full to supplement it in order to enhance the attractiveness thereof.
The applicator advantageously has a plurality of channels, at least some of which accommodate a fibre, in particular between 2 and 50 channels, better still between 10 and 50 channels.
The applicator may have a plurality of channels, only some of which accommodate a fibre, as desired depending on the areas of eyelashes or eyebrows to be filled out or lengthened. In a variant, all the channels accommodate a fibre.
The inside diameter of each channel is preferably greater than a largest diameter of the fibre that it contains. This makes it possible to easily withdraw the fibres from the respective channels in which they are accommodated.
Preferably, the ratio Dc/Df between the diameter Dc of the channel and the largest diameter Df of the fibre is between 1.5 and 10.
When the ratio Dc/Df is greater than 10, the applicator preferably has a means for holding each fibre. This holding means makes it possible for the fibres not to slide in an uncontrolled manner in the channels. The holding means may have a narrowed portion of the channel such that, at the narrowed portion, the ratio Dc/Df is less than 10. The holding means may also have an activatable system that grips the fibres in a part of the channel. The holding means may also have a non-stick material disposed in the channel, along all or part of its length.
The channels may be formed in an elastomeric material, in particular a material with a Shore A hardness of 0 to 50, preferably of 8 to 40.
The elastomeric material gives the applicator flexibility such that a user can grip or deform the applicator in order to hold the fibres, then release the pressure or the torsion in order to allow the fibres to move and leave their respective channels. The elastomeric material can be chosen from the group consisting of a silicone such as Platsil Gel silicone from the company Polytec, rubbers derived from vinyl polymerization with crosslinking, thermoplastic elastomer polymers TPE, constituted generally of chains having two blocks such as polyurethane TPEs (with an isocyanate block and an ether/ester block), TPE-Es (with a polyester block and a polyether block), TPE-Cs (with a polyamide block and a polyether block), TPE-Ss (with a styrene block and a polybutadiene or polyisoprene or polyethylene block).
Such a material makes it advantageously possible to obtain a feel with a non-stick effect, this retaining at least a little of the fibre in the channel, such that it does not slide accidentally out of the channel, without otherwise requiring adhesive for this retention. This retention is preferably entirely relative, making it possible to easily remove the fibre from the channel when desired.
At least one channel may be closed in section along its entire length.
At least one channel may be open in section along a portion of its length less than its total length and around a portion of its circumference less than its total circumference.
At least some of the channels may have the same shape. In particular, all the channels of the applicator may have the same shape.
At least some of the channels may have different shapes.
The channels may or may not have the shape of the fibres. If the ratio Dc/Df is less than 3, the channels preferably have the same shape as the fibres. On the other hand, if the ratio Dc/Df is greater than 10, the channels preferably have a different shape from that of the fibres. The difference in shape may hold the fibres so as to prevent them from sliding naturally, in particular under the effect of gravity.
The channels may be defined by tubes. In this case, the applicator preferably has at least one link connecting the tubes together. This link constitutes for example a flexible articulation between the tubes so as to make it possible to modify the orientation of a tube with respect to an adjacent tube. In a variant, the link is realized so as to limit the movement between the tubes, or even to prevent movement between the tubes. The link may make it possible to join the tubes together by snap-fastening.
In one particular embodiment, the channels are formed in a monolithic part. The end-of-travel stop may be formed by a portion of this part.
Each channel preferably accommodates a single fibre, when it accommodates one.
The or each fibre may protrude from the channel, through an open outlet thereof, by a length (δ) greater than or equal to 1 mm, it being possible for this length to be different for two different fibres.
The channels are disposed for example in a fan shape, in particular when they are formed in a monolithic part or when they are formed by tubes that are connected together.
The end-of-travel stop may be movable relative to the outlet of the channel through which the fibre emerges. The end-of-travel stop is formed for example by a portion of a monolithic part in which the channels are formed, as mentioned above. It may be adjustable, if appropriate.
The applicator may have several channels that are substantially identical to one another and distributed uniformly, for example disposed in a fan shape, each channel accommodating a fibre. This configuration is particularly recommended for rows of eyelashes that are sparse in terms of eyelashes.
For incomplete rows of eyelashes, with one or more bare areas, the applicator can be in different forms. For example, the applicator may have a width such that it only covers a part of the row of eyelashes. In a variant, the applicator may cover the entire row with a plurality of channels, only some of which contain a fibre, however, next to one or more bare areas of the row of eyelashes. Alternatively, the applicator may cover the entire row with a plurality of channels, each of which is filled with a fibre, the applicator having a means for making only the fibres that will be added to the row, at the bare areas of the row, protrude from the channels. In a variant, the applicator may cover the entire row with a plurality of channels, each of which is filled with a fibre, the applicator having a means for preventing the channels that will not be next to a bare area of the row of eyelashes from being freed. In another variant, the applicator may cover the entire row with a plurality of channels, each of which is filled with a fibre, the applicator having a means for preventing the stops of the fibres that will not be next to a bare area of the row of eyelashes from being freed. In another embodiment, the applicator may cover the entire row with a number of channels limited to those that will be next to a bare area of the row of eyelashes during the implementation of the process.
Fibres
The term “fibre” should be understood according to the invention as meaning an object of length L and of diameter D such that L is greater than D and preferably very much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the greatest cross section of the fibre is inscribed. In particular, the ratio L/D (or aspect ratio) is chosen in the range of values from 3.5 to 2500, preferably from 10 to 1000, better still from 20 to 500.
The fibres may be chosen from natural fibres and synthetic fibres, in particular polyamide, for example Nylon®.
The fibres may be inorganic or organic. They may be long, or short, individual or organized, for example braided, and hollow or solid. They may have any shape, for example curved or substantially rectilinear. They may in particular have a cross section that is circular or polygonal (square, hexagonal or octagonal). In particular, their ends may be blunted and/or smoothed to prevent injury.
The fibres may be those used in the manufacture of textiles, in particular fibres of silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibres, in particular extracted from wood, plants or algae, rayon fibres, polyamide (Nylon®) fibres, viscose fibres, acetate fibres, in particular acetate rayon fibres, acrylic polymer fibres, in particular polymethyl methacrylate fibres, or poly(2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) fibres, polyolefin fibres and in particular polyethylene or polypropylene fibres, polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibres, polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) fibres, glass fibres, silica fibres, carbon fibres, in particular carbon fibres in the form of graphite, polytetrafluoroethylene (such as Teflon®) fibres, insoluble collagen fibres, polyester fibres, polyvinyl chloride fibres or polyvinylidene chloride fibres, poly(vinyl alcohol) fibres, polyacrylonitrile fibres, chitosan fibres, polyurethane fibres, polyethylene phthalate fibres, or fibres formed by a mixture of polymers such as those mentioned above, for example polyamide/polyester fibres.
The fibres may be human fibres.
Moreover, the fibres may be surface-treated and/or covered with a protective layer or a layer intended to give them a colour.
Use may be made of flame-retardant acrylic fibres of the “Kanekalon” brand.
The fibres are for example those sold under the reference Minke-props SKINTEX Flock ref 590502.
It is possible to use identical fibres or, in a variant, a mixture of fibres that differ from one another in terms of length, cross section, material and/or shape. The use of fibres with different lengths may impart greater naturalness. The same goes for a mixture of colours. In one particular embodiment, the applicator may have a mixture of fibres of different colours. The colours of the fibres may be mixed in an organized or random manner.
Different colours or combinations of colours in the fibres may be employed without departing from the scope of the invention. Fibres that produce special effects, such as transparent fibres and/or shiny fibres, may also be included. This may create novel aesthetic effects on the eyelashes.
The fibres may have a length of between about 0.5 mm and 20 mm.
The fibres may have a straight or curved shape.
The fibres have for example a largest diameter of between about 20 μm and 200 μm, in particular between about 50 and 200 μm. The diameter may or may not be constant along the fibre. When the fibres do not have a constant diameter, the diameter taken into consideration in the ratio Dc/Df is the largest diameter of the fibre. The fibres may have a tapered shape.
The weight or yarn count of the fibres is generally given in denier or decitex and represents the weight in grams per 9 km of yarn. The fibres according to the invention have for example a unitary yarn count of between 0.1 and 100 denier, preferably between 1 and 70 denier, and better still between 5 and 60 denier.
The fibres, when carried by the applicator, are advantageously not connected together other than via the applicator. They are not organized in a strip or tuft.
Assembly
Another subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is a cosmetic assembly having an applicator as defined above and an adhesive composition.
The assembly may be contained in a single package.
The fibres may be presented separately from the applicator in the assembly, in particular in the package, the user adding the fibres to all or some of the channels of the applicator before use.
Adhesive Composition
The adhesive composition is advantageously provided to allow the adhesion of the fibre(s) to an area of human keratin materials such as the skin or the eyelid, or to the keratin fibres.
The adhesive composition is advantageously suitable for application to the eyelashes and eyelids, the skin, and for cosmetic use.
The assembly may also include an applicator for the adhesive composition. Such an applicator may have a flocked end piece. It may have a shape suitable for application to the eyelid, for example. The adhesive applicator may comprise for example a pen that dispenses the adhesive composition or an applicator that cooperates with a container containing the adhesive composition, for example an applicator provided with a fine brush or with a flocked thermoplastic end piece.
The adhesive composition comprises or is constituted of an adhesive material.
Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “material” means a polymer or a polymeric system that may comprise one or more polymers of different natures. This adhesive material may be in the form of a polymer solution or a dispersion of polymer particles in a solvent. This adhesive material may also contain a plasticizer. This adhesive material must have a certain tackiness defined by its viscoelastic properties.
The adhesive materials according to the invention may for example be chosen from pressure sensitive adhesives, for instance those cited in the “Handbook of Pressure Sensitive Adhesive Technology”, 3rd edition, D. Satas.
The adhesive material may be chosen from acrylic polymers or copolymers.
The pressure sensitive adhesive materials may be chosen from acrylic polymers, in particular copolymers of acrylate and methacrylate, pressure sensitive adhesives based on rubber or based on styrene copolymers, such as styrene-isoprene-styrene (SIS) and styrene-butadiene-styrene (SBS) copolymers, for example.
Examples of acrylic copolymers that may be suitable are available commercially under the brands EASTAREZ 2010, 2020 and 2050 (Eastman Chemical Co.), ACRONAL V210 (BASF), MOWILITH LDM 7255, REVACRYL 491 (Clariant) and FLEXBOND 165 (Air Products). As a preferred example of acrylic copolymers, the use of the acrylates/ethylhexyl acrylate copolymer sold by DAITO KASEI KOGYO under the name Daitosol 5500GM may be mentioned.
The adhesive composition may for example be chosen from the adhesive composition for eyelashes from the DUO® eyelash adhesive range, sold by American International Industries, and Daitosol 5500 GM from DAITO KASEI KOGYO.
Commercial examples of polymeric rubbers that may be suitable are known under the brands RICON 130 polybutadiene (Atofina Sartomer) and ISOLENE 40 polyisoprene (Elementis).
Examples of polyurethane-based adhesives that may be suitable are available under the brands SANCURE 2104 (Noveon) and VYLON UR 1400 (Toyobo Vylon).
Examples of vinyl acetate copolymers that may be suitable are available commercially under the brands PVP/VA 6-630 (International Specialty Products) and FLEXBOND 149 (Air Products).
Examples of vinyl alcohol/vinyl acetate copolymers are available commercially under the brands CELVOL 107 (Celanese) and ELVANOL 50-42 (DuPont).
Mention may also be made of the block or statistical copolymers comprising at least one monomer or a combination of monomers of which the resulting polymer has a glass transition temperature lower than ambient temperature (25° C.), these monomers or combinations of monomers being able to be chosen from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, isoprene, isobutylene, a silicone, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such materials are block polymers of the styrene-butadiene-styrene, styrene-(ethylene-butylene)-styrene or styrene-isoprene-styrene type, such as those sold under the trade names “Kraton” from Kraton or “Vector” from Dexco Polymers.
The adhesive materials according to the invention may also comprise tackifying resins, such as rosins or rosin derivatives such as hydrogenated rosins, rosin esters, hydrogenated rosin esters, terpenes, aliphatic or aromatic hydrocarbon-based resins, phenolic resins, styrene resins and coumarone-indene resins. Mention will also be made of the compounds such as shellac, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gum, copal resins, benzoin, and gum mastic.
The silicone resins, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers, may also be mentioned.
The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name “MDTQ”, the resin being described depending on the different siloxane monomer units that it comprises, each of the letters M, D, T and Q characterizing a type of unit.
Among these resins, mention may be made in particular of the siloxysilicate resins, which may be trimethylsiloxysilicates of the formula [(CH3)3XSiXO]xX(SiO4/2)y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, lipodispersible film-forming polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, also referred to as NADs.
Use may be made, as non-aqueous dispersion of hydrophobic film-forming polymer, of dispersions of particles of a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably an acrylic polymer, in a liquid oily phase for example, in the form of surface-stabilized particles dispersed in the liquid fatty phase. The dispersion of surface-stabilized polymer particles may be manufactured as described in the document WO 04/055081.
Mention may also be made of dispersions of C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate polymer particles stabilized by a stabilizing agent chosen from isobornyl (meth)acrylate polymers, as described in the document WO 2015/091513.
Use may also be made of UV reactive adhesives.
As examples, use may be made of the (acrylic latex) adhesive Cream Blend 331 from Pros-Aide or the (soluble sulfopolyester polymer) adhesive AQ1350 from Eastman Chemical.
Cosmetic Treatment Process
Another subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is a cosmetic treatment process, implemented with the aid of an applicator as defined above, the process comprising the following steps of:
Said area is constituted for example by the eyelid, in particular at the base of the eyelashes, the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows.
During step b) of bringing the fibre(s) into contact with said area, the applicator can be moved towards the eyelashes and/or eyebrows in a tangential movement until the fibres come into contact with the adhesive composition. This tangential movement may also be referred to as a grazing movement.
The adhesive composition may be applied to the area as a continuous or discontinuous film. The adhesive composition may be applied with the aid of an adhesive applicator.
When the adhesive composition is applied to the eyelid, the hand movement is simple, since all that is necessary is to move the adhesive applicator into the vicinity of the row of eyelashes and then allow contact in order to adhere the adhesive to the root of the eyelashes.
A drying step may take place following the application of the adhesive composition, for example lasting 1 min to 5 min, for example by air drying.
The process may include a prior step of choosing the applicator or adapting the applicator, depending on the area to be treated.
The invention will be understood better from reading the following detailed description of non-limiting exemplary embodiments thereof, and with reference to the attached drawing, in which:
The applicator 1 forms a monolithic part made of an elastomer material, in this example of silicone, with a Shore A hardness of 0 to 50 and preferably of 8 to 40. The applicator 1 has a substantially trapezoidal shape. The applicator 1 has on the inside recesses forming the channels 3 and forms the end-of-travel stops 5 at the end of the channels 3. The different channels 3 are arranged in a fan shape within the applicator 1. Each channel 3 is defined by at least one portion 4 that, in section, entirely surrounds the fibre 2.
Each channel 3 has at least one end-of-travel stop 5 limiting the insertion of the fibre 2, made in the monolithic part.
Each channel 3 has, on the opposite side from the stop 5, an open outlet 7 through which the fibre 2 that it contains passes. The fibres 2 protrude from the outlet 7 by a length 6 that can vary from one fibre to another, δ being for example greater than 1 mm, being equal to for example about 1 mm to 2 mm.
The inside diameter of each channel 3 is greater than the largest diameter of the fibre 2 that it contains.
In this example, the channels 3 are closed in section along their entire length.
The fibres are made of silk in this example. The fibres have a largest diameter of between about 50 and 200 μm.
The applicator 1 has a gripping part 6 beyond the stops 5, on the opposite side from the outlets 7 of the channels 3.
According to this process, the first step is to apply an adhesive composition to the area P, for example the eyelid, at the base of the eyelashes, on which the fibre(s) 2 are intended to be deposited and/or to the end 11 of the fibres 2.
In a variant, the adhesive composition could be deposited on the fibres 2, in particular on the end of the fibres 2 protruding from the channels 3.
It can be left to dry, for example in the air, for 1 min to 5 min.
Then, as illustrated in
Next, the applicator 1 is moved away from said area P, orthogonally to the line of the row, and preferably pulling diagonally upwards in order to create an angle causing the fibres 2 to lift. The fibre(s) 2 adhere to said area P, being withdrawn from the corresponding channel(s) 3 of the applicator 1. This makes it possible to fill out the sparse row of eyelashes. Satisfactory positioning of the fibres 2, which are positioned properly, stuck to the eyelid and provide an enhanced appearance for the sparse rows and precise filling of incomplete rows, is obtained.
In the example in
In this example, the fibre 2 has a cross section with a diameter that decreases from an end 11 protruding from the outlet 7 of the channel 3 towards the other end 12 in contact with the stop 5. The end-of-travel stop 5 constitutes a stopping point, preventing the fibre 2 from sliding during application in spite of the pressure exerted.
The greatest diameter Df of the fibre 2 is less than the diameter De, which is constant in this example, of the channel 3. The ratio Dc/Df is equal to 2 in this example. The end 12 of the fibre 2 is tapered in this example. The fibre 2 is rectilinear in this example.
It is possible for the tube 10 not to be complete and to have an area that is open and thus accessible. This is the case in the example in
In this case, use will preferably made of a fibre 2 that is sufficiently flexible but also strong in order that it cannot emerge through the open area 8 when the pressure is applied at the time of application.
In the case of the applicator 1 illustrated in
In the example in
In the example in
By virtue of the invention, in the case of incomplete rows, a single applicator 1 and complementary parts adapted to their situation can be provided to users.
In
In the example in
In the example in
In
The invention is not limited to the examples that have just been described. In particular, the applicator 1 can be used to apply fibres to the eyebrows or to the scalp. The invention thus makes it possible to treat any areas that bear natural fibres and where there is a desire to add additional fibres, notably the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the scalp.
The adhesive composition can also be applied to the fibres and/or to the eyelashes or eyebrows or hair fibres.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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1874051 | Dec 2018 | FR | national |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
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PCT/EP2019/086726 | 12/20/2019 | WO | 00 |