The present disclosure is directed to applicators and, more particularly, to an applicator including a non-compliant backer member for topically applying a composition to a face.
Typical applicators for topically applying facial keratinous formulations (e.g., foundations) to skin and facial hair that are made of flat, die cut, expanded foam do not provide a smooth and continuous deposition of the composition on a face for the purposes of concealing facial skin imperfections and fine facial hair (e.g., vellus hair). These existing applicators typically have a rough, and often porous and absorbent flat surface, which do not allow for an even and smooth deposition. There is a need to maximize the effectiveness of these skin compositions (e.g., concealing benefits) with even and smooth facial deposition. A primary insufficiency of these existing applicators is in the ability to distribute the concentrated load that transitions through the compressible applicator structure from fingers to face. This can result in high pressure areas on the applicator and face opposite the finger tips used to control the applicator motion. This can result in a streaky finish on the face as product is rendered in highly compressed areas and absorbed in non-compressed areas. The phenomenon does not allow for preferred patterning and reservation of chemistry as the chemistry is being delivered to the face.
Also, these applicators do not offer the ability to manage a reservoir of keratinous formulation between the applicator surface and facial substrate and yet provide the desired even and smooth deposition. There is a need for applicator to be able to hold a reservoir of dispensed keratinous formulations in the dosing area and keep it from running before being applied to the face.
The present disclosure is directed to solving one or more of these problems. Without wishing to be bound by theory, the present disclosure identifies materials, geometry, and methodology to address one or more of the problems.
The applicators described herein help to addresses the need of controlling deposition characteristics to provide a consistent and predictable distribution of chemistry on the skin. Backing members are provided to re-distribute chemistry in a predictable manner based on need and geometry and are less reliant on the user's skill or ability to position their fingers in such a way to achieve a desired effect. Controlling the distribution of chemistry is advantageous for a variety of conditions being treated including the need to cover imperfections, general evening of skin appearance through reduced contrast in hyper and hypo pigmentation and visible variation in topography, and the general need for re-distribution of low dose chemistries for blending over large areas with minimal product coverage by weight or film thickness. This need can be particularly desired in managing and concealing fine facial hair of a human female. Depending on the individual and exactly where on the face this hair is located, the hair may be vellus hair with shaft diameters ranging from 1 to 30 micrometers to darker terminal hair with shaft diameters typically larger than 30 micrometer to about 120 micrometers. Without wishing to be bound by theory, concealing this hair can be achieved by using the applicators described herein to smoothly and evenly applying a keratinous formulation to skin and hair, and concurrently laying down (i.e., flatten) the hair against the skin. Furthermore, results are maximized by stroking the applicator along the grain of the hair. Results may also be maximized by including chemistry in the keratinous formulation to further minimize the appearance the fine facial hair through opacity and maintaining the adhesion of hair to the skin.
In one embodiment, a cosmetic applicator includes a compliant material having a durometer of less than 90 Shore A and a layer of relatively non-compliant backer material having a durometer greater than the compliant material attached to a side of the applicator opposite an application surface. The backer material provides a predetermined force distribution over the compliant material when force is applied to the non-compliant backer material.
In another embodiment, a method of forming a cosmetic applicator is provided. The method includes connecting a non-compliant backer member comprising a relatively non-compliant material to a compliant applicator member comprising a relatively compliant material having a hardness of no more 90 Shore A thereby providing a predetermined force distribution over the compliant material when force is applied to the non-compliant backer member.
In another embodiment, a cosmetic applicator includes a compliant applicator member including a compliant material connected to a non-compliant backer member including a non-compliant backer material having a durometer greater than the compliant material. The non-compliant backer member provides a reservoir in the compliant applicator member configured to accumulate a keratinous formulation and/or foundation.
Embodiments described herein are directed generally to applicators including a relatively compliant applicator member formed of a relatively compliant material and a relatively non-compliant backer member formed of a relatively non-compliant material connected to the relatively compliant applicator member. The compliant applicator member provides an application surface that is configured to make contact with a facial surface for application of a keratinous formulation to the facial surface and also for doctoring of the keratinous formulation from the facial surface in a predictable and repeatable fashion. As used herein, the term “keratinous formulation” refers to any composition suitable for application on the skin for impacting cosmetic, hair care and skin care compositions. The relatively non-compliant backer member is connected to the compliant applicator member to control a pressure profile applied to the facial surface using the compliant applicator member and/or to change a shape of the compliant applicator member from a generally flat, planar configuration to a three-dimensional configuration, such as having a concave profile. The compliant applicator member can conform to the shape profile of the more resolute contour of the relatively non-compliant member it is attached to.
Referring to
Without wishing to be bound by theory, absorbing materials alone, such as flat sponges, can exhibit several undesirable characteristics for (cosmetic/skin formulation and/or hair lay-down applications. Based on unpublished consumer research, some consumers feel that a portion of the keratinous formulation is being lost by being absorbed into the sponge and therefore not being completely dosed on to the skin. Also, absorbing materials alone may not provide even applications of keratinous formulation on to the facial substrate given the rough or non-smooth topical surface that absorptive materials typically have. However, sponges and open-cell foams can readily conform to a skin surface profile as it is passed over an area of the skin, which can be advantageous during application of a keratinous formulation.
To improve application characteristics of the compliant applicator member 12, the non-compliant backer member 14 is connected to the surface 18 that is opposite the applicator surface 18 of the compliant applicator member 12. The non-compliant backer member 14 is arranged and configured to improve the application characteristics of the compliant applicator member 12 by (a) controlling a pressure profile applied to the Skin and/or facial surface using the compliant applicator member, (b) imparting rigidity to selected areas of the compliant applicator member and/or (c) changing a shape of the compliant applicator member from a generally flat, planar configuration to a three-dimensional configuration, such as having a concave profile. While a compliant layer and a non-compliant layer is shown, more than two layers may be used to provide a variety of performance characteristics. For example, a relatively thin top layer comprising an open cell layer or flocked surface may be added to increase absorbance. A secondary and tertiary surface of increasing or decreasing rigidity may be added as backer materials to help dissipate forces to the application surface and create a softer feel on the fingertips in contact with the backer surface.
Referring to
Referring particularly to
The first pressure region 30 can cover a relatively larger area of the surface 25 of the compliant applicator member 22 than the second pressure region 32. The first pressure region 30 can provide a finger purchase location where a user can place his or her fingers away from the reservoir 44 to apply pressure against the compliant applicator member 22 for an application operation. In the illustrated embodiment, the second pressure region 32 extends along, but is spaced from the periphery 26 of the compliant applicator member 22. In other embodiments, the second pressure region 32 may be located at and coextend with the periphery 26 of the compliant applicator member 22. The second pressure region 32 can increase the rigidity of the compliant applicator member 22 at the periphery 26, which can provide a doctoring edge 50 that can be used to remove excess keratinous formulation from the facial surface or other skin areas and apply pressure to hair against the facial surface or other skin areas during application.
The applicator surface 53 (
In one embodiment, at least 10%, or 15%, 25%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, 95%, or 98%, or more of an outer surface area of the applicator comprises a non-absorbing and/or an absorbing surface. In another embodiment, less than 100%, or 98%, 95%, 90%, 80%, 70%, 60%, 50%, 40%, 30%, 25%, or 15%, or less; but greater than 10%, of the outer surface area of the applicator comprises an absorbing and/or a non-absorbing material. In yet another embodiment, 40% to 100%, such as from 50% to 100%, alternatively from 60% to 100%, alternatively combinations thereof, of the outer surface area of the applicator comprises an absorbing and/or a non-absorbing material.
In one embodiment, from 5% to 100%, such as from 10% to 100%, such as from 50% to 100%, alternatively from 25% to 75%, alternatively from 10% to 90%, alternatively from 80% to 100%, alternatively combinations thereof, by weight of the applicator 20 comprises an absorbing and/or a non-absorbing material. In yet another embodiment, the applicator 20 comprises 2, 3, 4, 5, or more different types of materials.
Another aspect provides for at least the applicator surface 53 of the applicator 20 configured to make contact with the keratinous surfaces (e.g., hair, skin, nails, etc.) to be comprised of a non-absorbing elastomeric material and/or an absorbing material that is smooth for even application of keratinous formulations to the keratinous surfaces. Yet another aspect provides for the material of the applicator 20, at least the applicator surface 50, to be washable to allow the user to clean the applicator 20 between one or more uses.
The material(s) comprising the applicator 20 can be injection molded, extruded or caste molded to form the applicator 20. These materials may be vulcanized, thermoformed, assembled and ultrasonic or heat welded or welded with adhesives, injection molded, extruded, die cut, cast, or combinations thereof.
The non-compliant backer member 24 may be formed of any suitable material having a hardness greater than that of the compliant applicator member 22 (e.g., greater than 90 Shore A). Exemplary materials include plastics, such as polyvinyl chloride, and metals, such as aluminum, stainless steel, etc. The non-compliant backer member 24 may be substantially planar or may be non-planar (e.g., concave), as will be described in greater detail below, to impart a curvature to the compliant applicator member 22. Any suitable thickness or thicknesses may be used to form the compliant applicator member 22. For example, the compliant applicator member 22 may have a thickness between about 0.04 inch and about 0.35 inch. Further, any suitable thickness or thicknesses may be used to form the non-compliant backer member 24. For example, the backer member may have a thickness between about 0.0015 inch and about 0.1 inch. The thickness may be substantially constant over the area of the non-compliant backer member 24 or the thickness may be different in certain areas. Any suitable process can be used for forming the non-compliant backer member 24, such as vacuum or injection molding, machining, die cutting, etc.
In some embodiments, the non-compliant backer member 24 may be formed with one or more heat stakes that can be heated to their softening or melting point to heat stake the non-compliant backer member 24 to the compliant applicator member 22. Other suitable connecting processes for connecting the non-compliant backer member 24 to the compliant applicator member 22 include adhesives, hook and loop fasteners, etc.
The applicator surface 53 may have an overall surface area from 25 cm2 to 200 cm2, such as from 30 cm2 to 100 cm2, such as from 35 cm2 to 80 cm2, alternatively from 40 cm2 to 60 cm2. During use, not the entire applicator surface 50 of the applicator 20 (configured to make contact with the skin/facial substrate, nails, hair etc.) will typically make contact with the keratinous substrate. The percentage of the one surface of the applicator making contact with the keratinous substrate will depend upon a number of variables including the user's preferences, contour of the face being treated, skin elasticity, and amount of composition being applied (at any given time). The size of the applicator 20 can be important. Without wishing to be bound by theory, the applicator 20 strikes a balance: in being small enough to provide a relatively compact design (for travel etc.) and suitable for use by the typical sized human female fingers (e.g., at least about 1 cm in diameter, such as at least about 2 cm); but large enough to facilitate easy application for larger skin substrate areas (e.g., cheeks), and maintain a user gripable surface away from the keratinous contact surface (avoiding unwanted contact and composition loss).
The non-compliant backer member 58 may include a first pressure region 66 and a second pressure region 68. The first pressure region 66 may generally include a greater surface area of the complaint applicator member 56 than the second pressure region 68. The first pressure region 66 may include a peripheral edge 70 that is part of the periphery 64 and an inner edge 72 that is part of a reservoir opening 74 formed by the non-compliant backer member 58. The second pressure region 68 of the non-compliant backer member 58 includes a first connecting end 76 and a second connecting end 78, both ends 76 and 78 being connected to the first pressure region 66, forming a somewhat C-shape. The first and second pressure regions 66 and 68 form a portion of the reservoir opening 74 that is located between the first and second pressure regions 66 and 68. The reservoir opening 74 can provide a relatively soft area of the applicator 54 that forms a reservoir 82 for accumulation of a keratinous formulation. The first and second pressure regions 66 and 68 can impede or limit accumulation of the keratinous formulation in their areas relative to the reservoir 82 due to the presence of the non-compliant material connected to the compliant applicator member 56 and guide the keratinous formulation to the reservoir 82.
Referring to
The non-compliant backer member 94 may include a solid, continuous pressure region 102. The pressure region 102 may include a peripheral edge 104 that is part of the periphery 100 that extends toward, but is spaced-apart from the periphery 96 of the compliant applicator member 92 thereby providing a relatively soft edge zone 104. The pressure region 102 can impede or limit accumulation of the keratinous formulation its area, pushing keratinous formulation to the periphery 96. Such a side-weighted arrangement can be useful for extending chemistries, such as moisturizers and bronzing lotions by spreading material to the periphery 96 with limited deposition directly under the non-compliant backer member 94.
In this embodiment, the non-compliant backer member 110 may be thermoformed to have a concave shape that forces the planar compliant applicator member 116 into a concave shape when bonded thereto. Thus, the applicator surface 114 of the applicator 112 configured to make contact with the hair, nail, skin or facial substrate is concave. In such an embodiment, the concave surface may have a surface area from 5 cm2 to 100 cm2, such as from 7 cm2 to 50 cm2, such as from 10 cm2 to 30 cm2. In one embodiment when the applicator surface 114 of the applicator 112 is concave, the concave applicator surface 114 is configured to provide a predetermined volume. This volume may be customized to show the user how much product to dispense during one application cycle. By making visually or tactile evidence of steel mold markings or printed or decorated areas on the surface or changes in geometry or material thickness changes, the applicator design or a portion of the design may be used to indicate to the user exactly how much keratinous formulation to dispense.
The keratinous formulation suitable for topical application to skin by the applicator may be essentially any dermatologically safe composition. In one embodiment, the composition contains one or more ingredients to soften hair (e.g., glycerol) to work in combination with the applicator to minimize the appearance of hair, preferably facial hair, preferably fine facial hair on a human female. Suitable application thicknesses may vary depending on the type of keratinous formulation. For example, thicknesses of at least about 1-20 μg/cm2 of formulation on skin may be desirable for minimizing the appearance of facial hair. In another embodiment, the composition contains one or more ingredients to cover the fine facial hair such as foundation. The keratinous formulation can include both hair softening ingredients as well as hair or skin covering agents (e.g., pigments). While pigments may be used, an alternative composition is essentially free of pigments. In other embodiments, the pigment level may be normal or a reduced level of pigment may be used. Other ingredients may also be included in the composition such as a sunscreen agent or skin whitening agent. The keratinous formulation may not clog skin pores; is suitable for sensitive skin, and is dermatologically tested. In some embodiments, the keratinous formulation is a film forming composition to provide, in part, hair lay-down benefits. Film-forming compositions (e.g., MQ resins) are described in WO 97/17057 and WO 98/52515. Hair applications are described in U.S. Publication No. 2012/0269753.
In some embodiments, the keratinous formulation generally has a higher viscosity. Without wishing to be bound by a theory, a more viscous composition can provide better coverage or application to a face since it will not run as compared to less viscous compositions, thereby allowing more time for the composition to be applied by the user via the applicator and more time for the composition to be absorbed by the facial skin and fine facial hair. The applicators described herein can be suitable for applying such higher viscosity compositions. All stated viscosities in the present application are Brookfield viscosities, unless otherwise specified. Suitable Brookfield viscosity ranges for the keratinous formulation may include those from 100 centipoise (cps) to 200,000 cps, such as from 15,000 cps to 90,000 cps, such as from 15,000 cps to 60,000 cps, alternatively for a compliant applicator member having a 40 Shore A hardness ranges may include from 15,000 cps to 40,000 cps, and alternatively combinations thereof. One suitable way of measuring viscosity includes using a Brookfield RVT, Spindle C, in Heliopath mode, at 5 rotations per minute (RPM) spindle speed (and under ambient conditions). Without wishing to be bound by theory, the applicator surface of the applicator having a concave surface may help to retain the keratinous formulation while the user dispenses the composition onto the applicator surface. The concave applicator surface of the applicator can act as a reservoir during the use of the applicator so the keratinous formulation is applied more from the center of the applicator. This is in sharp contrast to some other applicators that act as a rectilinear squeegee moving the keratinous formulation to the either side of the applicator. This can lead to having more strokes of applicator by the user for application (increasing the time of application); and undesirably forcing the keratinous formulation to move in a direction inconsistent to the grain of the fine facial hair, thereby potentially leading to suboptimal hair lay-down results.
The viscosity of the keratinous formulation may have a significant impact on the effective coverage of the product on skin using the applicator. Low viscosity compositions used with a high Shore A applicator may not dispense as well from the applicator because the fluid may not develop sufficient fluid dynamic resistance to overcome the downward force of the applicator's trailing edge. Alternatively, high viscosity compositions, when used in combination with a low Shore A applicator, may result in uneven deposition due to the high level of fluid dynamic resistance and relatively low trailing edge force. In some embodiments, it is desirable for the keratinous formulation to have relatively low shear stress-shear thinning properties.
In one embodiment, the keratinous formulations that are used in combination with the applicator of the present disclosure have a viscosity which correlates to the hardness of the compliant applicator member. For a compliant applicator member with a 39 to 45 Shore A hardness, the keratinous formulation can have a viscosity of about 15,000 cps to 40,000 cps. Alternatively, for a compliant applicator member with a 55 to 60 Shore A hardness, the keratinous formulation can have a viscosity of about 68,000 cps to 90,000 cps. Alternatively, for a compliant applicator member with a 47 Shore A hardness, the keratinous formulation can have a viscosity of about 100 cps to 90,000 cps, such as, between about 15,000 cps to 90,000 cps.
The shear thinning behavior of the skin care formulation is also important for even deposition due to the fact application shear rates are >100s−1 When used, the applicator is in motion, exerting a shear stress on the fluid. As a result, a velocity gradient may be exerted and high shear rates can be created due to the small gap thickness. A typical shear rate for “spreading” or “rubbing” may be >100 s−1 and as a result, a shear thinning product can exert less resistance to spreading. Viscosities may be defined as a Brookfield Viscosity which is a common industrial method to quantify the structure of the fluid. Additionally, steady state flow curves using a TA instrument AR-G2 rheometer can be created by exerting the fluid to increasing shear stresses and measuring the resulting viscosity. As is common to those known in the field, the data can then fit to the constitutive Carreau Model to fit the data to a common shear rate (in this case 10 and 100 s−1).
In addition, the durometer measured hardness of the compliant applicator material having the same geometry can be varied through composition to create a more ideal hardness of compliant applicator member for a particular product fluid viscosity. Specifically, with the oval geometry described herein, the compliant applicator member durometer hardness may be ranged from Shore A 20 to Shore A 90, such as Shore A 30 to Shore A 65 and specifically Shore A 39 to Shore A 59. By comparing material deposited with a plurality of compliant applicator member hardness's, all with the same geometry, it is possible to determine the ideal range of compliant applicator member hardness's for specific ranges of product viscosities.
Non-limiting examples of keratinous formulations that may be used in combination with the applicator of the present disclosure include: US 2005/0255059 A1, paragraph 202, examples 12 and 13; WO 97/17057; and US 2005/0238679. One non-limiting example of a composition comprises: 0.3-10 wt % (preferably 3-6 wt %) of a silicone resin (e.g., MQ resins (trimethylsiloxysilicate) and MQ resins blends from Dow Corning); 5-15 wt % (preferably 8-12 wt %) of glycerin; 2-10 wt % (preferably 4 to 8 wt %) of TiO2 (e.g., TiO2 coated talc or silicone treated TiO2); and 30% to 70% water.
The applicator may be used to apply a keratinous formulation to a face using a variety of techniques. Based on Applicant's unpublished consumer research, many women are unsatisfied with known applicators (for various reasons) and will even resort to simply using their finger(s). Indeed, the human face has a complicated geometry. Areas around the nose need a relatively small applicator whereas a cheek is a relatively large area that lends itself to applicators that cover broader areas. Having an applicator that also is efficient, i.e., minimizes application time, is also desired by many women. Therefore, there is a need to provide an applicator, that not only that provides hair lay-down benefits, but also is adaptable to the complex geometry of the human face. Turning to
The index finger 162 is typically not completely along the length of the applicator (i.e., along the major axis) as to allow some portion of the applicator surface 174 (shown in
A user can interchange between any one of these methods during a single facial application event. Further, orientation of the applicator can affect deposition of the keratinous formulation. Referring to
A method is provided for topically applying cosmetic and skincare products, such as for hair minimization or hair lay-down benefits to a face, e.g., a human female face that includes the step of topically applying a composition, such as a film-forming composition, to the face by an applicator. In one embodiment, the method further includes the step of assessing a directional axis of facial hair growth; and where the step of topically applying the composition with the applicator is conducted along the assessed directional axis of the facial hair growth. Without wishing to be bound by theory, the hair minimization or hair lay-down benefit can be improved by such an approach.
The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean “about 40 mm.”
Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or related patent or application, is hereby incorporated herein by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art with respect to anything disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or in any combination with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests or discloses anything claimed herein. Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall govern.
While particular embodiments have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the disclosure. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this description.
Number | Date | Country | |
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62222840 | Sep 2015 | US |