1. Technical Field of the Invention
The present application relates to photoprotective compositions comprising, formulated into a physiologically acceptable medium:
2. Description of Background and/or Related and/or Prior Art
It is well known that light radiation with wavelengths of from 280 nm to 400 nm makes possible browning of the human epidermis and that radiation with wavelengths of from 280 nm to 320 nm, known as UV-B radiation, causes skin burns and erythemas which can harm the development of natural tanning; this UV-B radiation must therefore be screened from the skin.
It is also known that UV-A radiation, with wavelengths of from 320 nm to 400 nm, which causes browning of the skin, is capable of promoting a detrimental change in the skin, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or of skin continually exposed to solar radiation. UV-A radiation causes in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles, resulting in premature aging. It promotes the triggering of the erythemal reaction or accentuates this reaction in certain individuals and can even be the cause of phototoxic or photoallergic reactions. It is therefore desirable to screen out UV-A radiation as well.
Numerous cosmetic compositions intended for the photoprotection of the skin have been provided to date.
There currently exists on the market various types of sunscreen agents: inorganic particles and organic screening agents. These screening agents must be able to absorb or block harmful solar radiation while remaining innocuous to the user.
Numerous organic sunscreen agents capable of more or less selectively absorbing harmful UV radiation have been provided to date in the field of cosmetics. However, for various reasons, these screening agents are not entirely satisfactory.
This is the reaction attempts are increasingly being made to avoid the use of these organic screening agents while favoring the use of inorganic metal oxide nanoparticles, in particular nano titanium oxides and nano zinc oxides, which also act as sunscreen agents, mainly by scattering/reflecting UV radiation, while providing greater safety for the user. These nanopigments generally have a mean size for the unit particle of less than 500 nm and preferably of less than 100 nm. The metal oxide nanoparticles generally used in the formulations may be hydrophilic or else may be hydrophobic.
Certain types of metal oxide nanoparticles and more particularly those of titanium oxide and those of zinc oxide have a tendency to whiten the skin after application. This phenomenon is undesirable from an aesthetic viewpoint.
In addition to this undesirable whitening phenomenon, metal oxide nanoparticles are generally difficult to formulate in aqueous compositions and more particularly in vehicles of the emulsion type which are the most commonly used in anti-sun/sunscreen cosmetics. They have a tendency to induce a phenomenon of sedimentation, to form large aggregates and to destabilize the aqueous formulations comprising them.
Provision has already been made, in JP 9-151110, to combine a polyalkylene glycol with a molecular mass of from 1,000 and 10,000,000 with inorganic particles in order to inhibit the phenomenon of aggregation in aqueous vehicles. However, it does not disclose metal oxide nanoparticles with a mean size for the unit particle of less than 500 nm and does not make it possible to solve the problem of whitening produced by these nanoparticles on application.
Furthermore, the assignee hereof, during its research studies, has found that polyalkylene glycols with a mean molecular mass of greater than 8,000 g/mol do not make it possible to improve the dispersibility of hydrophilic metal oxide nanoparticles in the aqueous phase.
Need thus continues to exists for novel aqueous anti-sun/sunscreen formulations based on metal oxide nanoparticles for which, on the one hand, the phenomena of whitening on the skin are substantially reduced, indeed even halted, and, on the other hand, a good stability is exhibited (good dispersibility of the nanoparticles in the aqueous phase).
It has now surprisingly and unexpectedly been determined that the above objectives could be achieved by formulating the combination of hydrophilic metal oxide nanoparticles and of a polyalkylene glycol with a mean molecular mass of less than 8,000 g/mol.
Thus, the present invention features photoprotective compositions comprising, formulated into a physiologically acceptable medium:
The present invention also features formulating at least one polyalkylene glycol with a mean molecular mass of less than 8,000 g/mol into photoprotective compositions comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least hydrophilic metal oxide nanoparticles for the purpose of reducing the whitening and/or of improving the stability of the said compositions (dispersibility of the nanoparticles in the aqueous phase).
The term “physiologically acceptable medium” means a non-toxic medium capable of being applied to the skin, lips, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows or nails. The compositions of the invention can constitute, in particular, cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
The term “nanoparticles” means particles for which the mean size of the unit particle is less than 500 nm and preferably less than 100 nm.
The term “hydrophilic” means particles which, introduced into an aqueous phase at 25° C., at a concentration by weight of 1%, make it possible to obtain a solution which is macroscopically homogeneous to the naked eye.
The hydrophilic metal oxide nanoparticles used in the present invention are powders composed of particles having a mean size for the unit particle preferably of from 5 nm to 500 nm, more preferably from 10 nm to 100 nm and preferentially still from 15 nm to 50 nm.
The metal oxides forming these nanoparticles are preferably selected from titanium oxides, zinc oxides or their mixtures, whether treated or untreated.
The treated metal oxide nanoparticles are generally subjected to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds capable of rendering them hydrophilic, such as those described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64. Mention may be made, for example, of amino acids, C1-C5 alkanolamines, silicon oxides (silica), metal oxides, such as alumina, sodium hexametaphosphate or glycerol or their mixtures.
Mention may be made, among the treated titanium oxide nanoparticles which can be used according to the invention, of the titanium oxide nanoparticles treated with at least one coating agent, such as:
The untreated titanium oxide nanopigments are, for example, those marketed by Tayca under the trademarks “Microtitanium dioxide MT 500 B” or “Microtitanium dioxide MT600 B”, by Degussa under the trademark “P 25”, by Wacker under the trademark “Oxyde de titane transparent PW”, by Miyoshi Kasei under the trademark “UFTR”, by Tomen under the trademark “ITS” and by Tioxide under the trademark “Tioveil AQ”.
The untreated zinc oxide nanoparticles are for example:
Also exemplary are coated mixtures of titanium dioxide and of zinc dioxide, such as that coated with alumina, with silica and with glycerol, for example the product “M 211” marketed by Kemira.
Very particularly preferred are titanium oxide nanoparticles, whether amorphous or in crystalline (rutile and/or anatase) form and whether treated or untreated.
The polyalkylene glycols in accordance with the invention are preferably selected from those with an alkylene moiety having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycols and polybutylene glycols.
Polyethylene glycols will more particularly be selected.
The concentration by weight of polyalkylene glycol in the composition preferably varies from 0.01% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% to better still from 0.2% to 2.5%, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The ratio by weight of the metal oxide nanoparticles to the polyalkylene glycol preferably varies from 1 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 20 and particularly from 8 to 12.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the ionic strength of the aqueous phase of the composition, without the metal oxide, is less than 0.1 mol/l. The ionic strength is determined using a CDM 230 conductivity meter (Meterlab) resulting in the conductivity of the medium, a parameter related to the ionic strength by the following relationship:
Ionic strength (mol/l)=0.1×Conductivity (Siemens/cm)+0.19
Furthermore, the compositions in accordance with the invention can comprise other additional organic photoprotective agents active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region which are water-soluble or fat-soluble or else insoluble in the cosmetic solvents commonly employed.
The additional organic photoprotective agents are selected in particular from among cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives, as disclosed in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives, as disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071, 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26,184 and EP-893,119; benzoxazole derivatives, as disclosed in EP-0,832,642, EP-1,027,883, EP-1,300,137 and DE-10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones, such as those disclosed in particular in WO 93/04665; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene, such as those disclosed in DE-19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes, as disclosed in EP-0,967,200, DE-19746654, DE-19755649, EP-A-1,008,586, EP-1,133,980 and EP-133,981; and mixtures thereof.
Examples of such additional organic photoprotective agents are those denoted below under their INCl names:
Cinnamic derivatives:
Dibenzoylmethane derivatives:
para-Aminobenzoic acid derivatives:
Salicylic derivatives:
β,β-Diphenylacrylate derivatives:
Benzophenone derivatives:
Benzylidenecamphor derivatives:
Phenylbenzimidazole derivatives:
Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:
Triazine derivatives:
Anthranilic derivatives:
Imidazoline derivatives:
Benzalmalonate derivatives:
4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:
Benzoxazole derivatives:
The preferred additional organic photoprotective agents are selected from among:
The aqueous compositions of the invention can be provided in all the forms generally used for a topical application, in particular in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion), water-in-oil emulsion (inverse emulsion), water-in-oil-in-water emulsion (multiple emulsion) or also of an aqueous gel.
The compositions of the invention can comprise all the additives commonly used in cosmetics and will find applications in the care and makeup field and in the field of anti-sun/sunscreen products.
The additional photoprotective agents are generally present-in the compositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous compositions in accordance with the present invention can additionally comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants selected in particular from among fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or non-ionic and hydrophilic or lipophilic thickening agents, softening agents, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, anti-foaming agents, fragrances, preservatives, anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active principles, fillers, polymers, propellants, basifying or acidifying agents or any other ingredient commonly employed in the cosmetics and/or dermatological field.
The fatty substances can be an oil or a wax or their mixtures. The term “oil” means a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature. The term “wax” means a compound which is solid or substantially solid at ambient temperature and which has a melting point generally of greater than 35° C.
Exemplary oils are mineral oils (liquid paraffin); vegetable oils (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed oil or jojoba oil); synthetic oils, such as perhydrosqualene, fatty alcohols, fatty amides (such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, marketed under the trademark of “Eldew SL-205” by Ajinomoto), fatty acids or esters (such as the benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols marketed under the trademark “Finsolv TN” or “Witconol TN” by Witco, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides, including those of capric/caprylic acids, or the dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the trademark “Cetiol CC” by Cognis), or oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated fatty esters and ethers; silicone oils (cyclomethicone, polydimethylsiloxanes or PDMSs) or fluorinated oils; or polyalkylenes.
Exemplary waxy compounds are paraffin wax, carnauba wax, beeswax or hydrogenated castor oil.
Exemplary organic solvents are the lower alcohols and polyols. The latter can be selected from glycols and glycol ethers, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
Exemplary hydrophilic thickening agents are carboxyvinyl polymers, such as Carbopols (carbomers) and Pemulens (acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, such as, for example, the crosslinked copolymers marketed under the trademarks Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyidimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by Seppic; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as the poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trademark “Hostacerin AMPS” (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); cellulose derivatives, such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and in particular gums, such as xanthan gum; and their mixtures.
Exemplary lipophilic thickening agents are synthetic polymers, such as the poly(C10-3 alkyl acrylate) marketed under the trademark “Doresco IPA 13-1” by Landec, or also modified clays, such as hectorite and its derivatives, for example the products marketed under the Bentone names.
And exemplary active principles include:
Of course, one skilled in this art will take care to choose the optional additional compound or compounds mentioned above and/or their amounts such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition or additions.
The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to one skilled in this art. They can in particular be provided in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W), such as a cream, a milk or a cream gel; in the form of an aqueous gel; or in the form of a lotion. They can optionally be packaged in an aerosol and be provided in the form of a foam or spray.
Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are provided in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.
The emulsions generally comprise at least one emulsifier selected from among amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are appropriately selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).
Exemplary emulsifying surfactants which can be used for the preparation of the W/O emulsions include sorbitan alkyl esters or ethers, glycerol alkyl esters or ethers or sugar alkyl esters or ethers; or silicone surfactants, such as dimethicone copolyols, for example the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol marketed under the trademark “DC 5225 C” by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, for example lauryl methicone copolyol, marketed under the trademark “Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid” by Dow Corning, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, for example the product marketed under the trademark Abil EM 90® by Goldschmidt, and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, of polyglyceryl (4 mol) isostearate and of hexyl laurate marketed under the trademark Abil WE 09 by Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers which can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of polyol alkyl esters can also be added thereto.
Exemplary polyol alkyl esters include polyethylene glycol esters, such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, for example the product marketed under the trademark Arlacel P135 by ICI.
Exemplary glycerol and/or sorbitan esters include polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product marketed under the trademark Isolan GI 34 by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the trademark Arlacel 987 by ICI; the isostearate of sorbitan and of glycerol, such as the product marketed under the trademark Arlacel 986 by ICI, and their mixtures.
For the O/W emulsions, exemplary emulsifiers include non-ionic emulsifiers, such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, such as the PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate mixture marketed, for example, by ICI under the trademark Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; sugar esters, such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APG), such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, marketed, for example, by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetearyl alcohol, marketed, for example, under the trademark Montanov 68 by Seppic, under the trademark Tegocare CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the trademark Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidyl glucoside marketed under the trademark Montanov 202 by Seppic. According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as disclosed, for example, in WO-A-92/06778.
When an emulsion is involved, the aqueous phase thereof can comprise a non-ionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol., 13, 238 (1965), FR-2,315,991 and FR-2,416,008).
The compositions according to the invention are applied in a large number of treatments, whether regime or regimen, in particular cosmetic treatments, to the skin, lips and/or hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and/or the care of the skin, lips and/or hair and/or for making up the skin and/or lips.
The present invention also features formulating the compositions as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, in particular care products, sun protection products and makeup products.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can, for example, be administered as care and/or sun protection products for the face and/or body with a liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as lotions, milks, relatively smooth creams, gels or cream gels. They can optionally be packaged in an aerosol and be provided in the form of a foam or spray.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can, for example, be used as makeup products.
The compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions are applied to the skin or the hair in the form of fine particles using pressurization devices. The devices in accordance with the invention are well known to this art and comprise non-aerosol pumps or “atomizers”, aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol pumps using compressed air as propellant. The latter are disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517.
The compositions packaged in an aerosol in accordance with the invention generally comprise conventional propellants, such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane or trichlorofluoromethane. They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 15% to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
In order to further illustrate the present invention and the advantages thereof, the following specific examples are given, it being understood that same are intended only as illustrative and in nowise limitative. In said examples to follow, all parts and percentages are given by weight, unless otherwise indicated.
Examples 1 to 4
Aqueous Dispersions comprising 20% as AM of hydrophilic titanium oxide nanoparticles (Mirasun TiW 60) in the presence of 2.2% of polymer, at pH 5:
The polymers used are as follows:
1) Dispersion Examples 1, 2, 3 and 4 are prepared according to the following protocol:
2.2 g of polymer are dissolved with stirring for 1 hour in 37 grams of deionized water, the pH of which is adjusted to 5 with the appropriate amount of citric acid. 9 grams of water are introduced into 50 grams of a 40% aqueous dispersion of hydrophilic TiO2 nanoparticles (Mirasun TiW 60) and the pH is adjusted to 5 with the appropriate amount of citric acid. The two preceding aqueous phases are mixed by simple stirring for 30 minutes.
2) The stability of the aqueous dispersions obtained is evaluated by measuring their viscosity according to the following test procedure:
The viscosity measurements are carried out 24 hours after the preparation of the dispersions using a Haake RS150 rheometer equipped with cone/plate geometry (35 mm, 2°) and with a thermostatically-controlled bath in order to control the temperature. The measurements are carried out in the flow mode, the stress being varied from 0.001 and 1 Pa according to 15 stationary phases of 120 s distributed logarithmically. The value of the viscosity for a shear rate of 10 s−1 is then measured. The lower the viscosity, the better the state of dispersion of the nanoparticles in the aqueous phase.
Only the use of the polyethylene glycol C according to the invention made it possible to improve the stability of the aqueous dispersion.
Examples 5 and 6
Aqueous Dispersions Comprising 10% as AM (active material) of titanium oxide (Mirasun TiW 60) in the presence of salt and at pH 5:
The dispersions are prepared according to the same procedure as for Examples 1 to 4 and the rheological measurements are also carried out in the same way. The state of dispersion is also evaluated by microscopic observation.
The aqueous dispersion 6, the ionic strength of which is equal to 0.17 mol/l, is less stable than the aqueous dispersion 5, the ionic strength of which is zero.
Examples 7 and 8
Sun Milks:
1) Method of preparation of the two sun milks:
The emulsion is prepared by rapid introduction of the aqueous phase into the oily phase with stirring using a homogenizer of Moritz type at a stirring speed of 3,000 rpm over 15 minutes. The emulsion is then cooled to ambient temperature and then subjected to strong shearing using a homogenizer of Rannie type under a pressure of 600 bar. A white and fluid milk is obtained.
For Example 7, 10 grams of Mirasun TiW 60, the pH of which is adjusted beforehand to 7 with the appropriate amount of citric acid, are introduced into the emulsion.
For Example 8, the polyethylene glycol is dissolved, with stirring for 1 hour, in 20 grams of deionized water; 10 grams of Mirasun TiW 60, the pH of which is adjusted beforehand to 7 with the appropriate amount of citric acid, are introduced into this solution with simple stirring over 30 minutes. This solution is then introduced with stirring into the emulsion.
2) Measurement of the whitening on the skin:
30 mg of each of the formulations are applied to an area of 4 cm×3 cm of the inner face of the forearm and are spread using the finger with 10 rotational movements. The area of the skin treated with each of the formulations is observed with the naked eye after application. The whitening of the skin is also measured using a spectrocolorimeter (CM 2002 from Minolta) which makes it possible to determine the brightness B of the deposit. The reduction in the whitening is evaluated by calculating the following ratio R, expressed as percentages:
R=100×(BTiO
According to this test, the reduction in the whitening is regarded as significant if it is at least equal to 10%.
It is observed with the naked eye that the composition 8 according to the invention, comprising hydrophilic TiO2 nanoparticles in the presence of polyethylene glycol, produces a substantially lower whitening in comparison with the composition 7, which does not comprise polyethylene glycol.
This phenomenon was confirmed by the measurements of the brightness and the calculation of the reduction in the whitening.
Examples 9 to 12
Aqueous lotions comprising 1% as AM of hydrophilic titanium oxide nanoparticles in the presence of polyethylene glycols having different molecular masses:
The TiO2 nanoparticles used are:
The polyethylene glycols used are:
The following four Examples 9 to 12 of aqueous lotions were prepared under the same conditions as implementational Example 1 of JP9-151110:
The stability of the aqueous lotions obtained is evaluated by measuring their viscosity according to the same test procedure described above for Examples 1 to 4.
Only the use of polyethylene glycol with a molecular mass of 1,450 g/mol according to the invention made it possible to improve the stability of the aqueous lotion.
Each patent, patent application, publication, text and literature article/report cited or indicated herein is hereby expressly incorporated by reference.
While the invention has been described in terms of various specific and preferred embodiments, the skilled artisan will appreciate that various modifications, substitutions, omissions, and changes may be made without departing from the spirit thereof. Accordingly, it is intended that the scope of the present invention be limited solely by the scope of the following claims, including equivalents thereof.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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04/51508 | Jul 2004 | FR | national |
This application claims priority under 35 U.S.C. § 119 of FR 04/51508, filed Jul. 13, 2004, and of Provisional Application No. 60/599,867, filed Aug. 10, 2004, and is a continuation of PCT/EP 2005/007887 filed Jun. 13, 2005 and designating the United States, published in the English language as WO 2006/005630 A1 on Jan. 19, 2006, each hereby expressly incorporated by reference and each assigned to the assignee hereof. Copending U.S. patent application No. ______[Attorney Docket No. 1016800-000701.001], filed concurrently herewith and assigned to the assignee hereof.
Number | Date | Country | |
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Parent | PCT/EP05/07887 | Jun 2005 | US |
Child | 11653394 | Jan 2007 | US |