1. Field of the Invention
The invention relates to an article of footwear, such as a shoe or any equivalent, and to a method for manufacturing the article of footwear. The article of footwear can be used in fields such as walking, running on flat or mountainous terrain, skateboarding, ball-playing sports, cross-country skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, and the like.
2. Description of the Background
An article of footwear must fulfill various and sometimes contradictory functions, such as providing adequate support and/or tightening of the foot while providing satisfactory comfort for the foot. The article of footwear must also have a certain flexibility, a property that involves good deformability to certain deformations of the foot. In other words, the article of footwear must adapt to the foot while allowing it to have the freedom required for walking or practicing the sport involved.
To this end, it is a known and widely used practice to make articles of footwear, such as shoes, by combining an upper and a sole assembly. The upper generally includes a number of components, such as a lateral quarter, a medial quarter, a vamp, a tongue, a heel, a rear counter, a protective toe-cap, a tightening device including keepers and a lace, an inner lining, and may have other components. Moreover, some of these components may include a plurality of portions. The main problem with a shoe is in assembling and turning components that are cut and assembled flat into a three-dimensional shape. Conventionally, the upper is associated with a lasting sole to demarcate a footwear element. According to a first method, the upper is glued to the lasting sole using an adhesive layer. The lasting sole, also referred to as the lasting board, is relatively rigid to withstand the assembly process. The gluing operation is carried out by pulling the upper and pressing it flat onto the lasting board, with a last being inserted in the upper. This is known as the traditional shoe lasting assembly. This technique makes it possible to exert sufficient pressure when heating the adhesive in order to obtain the footwear element. A second method, also known, involves obtaining the footwear element by stitching the upper to the lasting board. This is referred to as the Strobel assembly. The lasting board in this case is a flexible stitchable sole, referred to as the Strobel sole. For each of the first and second methods, the lasting board is integral with the sole assembly. The sole assembly further comprises external components, such as one or more damping layers and a wear layer adapted to contact the ground, which are generally attached using an adhesive to the lasted board and the lasted upper. The sole assembly further comprises one or more inner layers arranged in the footwear element to fulfill protective functions in terms of hygiene, shock-absorption, arch of the foot support, or the like. Finally, the association of the footwear element with the other constituent components of the sole assembly forms the shoe.
Irrespective of the method used for its manufacture, a prior art shoe produced by the most widely used techniques has certain disadvantages. First, the shoe uses a large number of components, typically between forty and sixty components. Such a large number of shoe-forming components increases the number of manufacturing operations and the time required to carry out such operations. It usually takes forty minutes to one hour and thirty minutes to make a shoe. It can be said that shoes manufactured using conventional techniques are complicated, both by the number of their components and the number of manufacturing operations.
Another disadvantage results from the structure discontinuity of the shoe, in particular in the area of the upper. For example, a component of reduced size superimposed on another, larger component, may considerably modify the bendability of the upper in the location of the small component. This may hinder a user and also render the shaping, i.e., three-dimensional shaping, of the upper more difficult.
A further disadvantage is due to the presence of free spaces between the foot and the shoe. This means that the foot is not in contact with the upper or the sole assembly in certain locations. This is especially true in the area of certain portions of the junction between the upper and the lasting board. As a result, undesired displacements occur sometimes between the foot and the shoe, which can cause discomfort or injuries. Also, spaces sometimes appear between the foot, the ankle, or the lower leg and the upper, in the area of the foot-insertion opening. Consequently, undesired foreign bodies may penetrate into the shoe.
Finally, it can be said that a shoe according to the prior art does not always ensure adequate support and/or tightening of the foot, or does not always provide satisfactory comfort for the foot. Moreover, this shoe does not systematically conform to all foot deformations.
In view of the foregoing, the Applicant has proposed an alternative approach to making an article of footwear.
For example, according to document FR 2 999 881, an article of footwear comprises a first envelope, the first envelope extending lengthwise from a rear end to a front end, widthwise between a lateral side and a medial side, and heightwise from a bottom to a top end, the first envelope including yarns linked to one another mechanically.
The first envelope is shaped into a three-dimensional volume upon being positioned on a last in order to have a geometry that is very similar to that of a foot, and thereby closely conforms to the shape of the foot in a very uniform fashion. This means that the foot is in contact with, or at least very close to, the first envelope. This results in an evenly distributed support of the foot, with very few or no undesired displacements between the foot and the first envelope. A resulting advantage is increased comfort of the article of footwear, compared to a shoe according to the prior art.
From the arrangement according to the document FR 2 999 881, the first envelope has a structure continuity, in the sense that its inner surface and/or outer surface are at least substantially uniform, if not completely uniform. This advantageously results in less or no discomfort for the user.
A synthesis of the foregoing shows that the first envelope supports the foot and provides adequate comfort therefor. Furthermore, the first envelope is capable of conforming to the foot deformations. This enables the article of footwear according to the document FR 2 999 881 to fit comfortably in any situation, be it a static or dynamic situation.
A further consequence of the arrangement according to the document FR 2 999 881 is a reduced number of components for manufacturing the article of footwear.
To this end, the invention generally aims to improve an article of footwear. More specifically, the invention, for example, aims to improve the transmission of steering forces, the restitution of reactions from the ground or an apparatus, or the perception of sensory information. The invention aims to optimize usage efficiency and to reduce user fatigue. The invention further aims to meet the specific needs of a user by preserving its basic qualities, such as comfort and foot support. This is a real challenge when support or transmission of intense information is desired, for example during a sporting activity. Indeed, comfort and optimization in the transmission of forces are concepts that are a priori contradictory.
In order to solve the aforementioned problem, the invention proposes an article of footwear comprising a first envelope, the first envelope extending lengthwise from a rear end to a front end, widthwise between a lateral side and a medial side, and heightwise from a bottom to a top end. For certain embodiments, as described below, the first envelope comprises yarns that are linked to one another mechanically. The article of footwear according to the invention comprises a functional component arranged opposite the first envelope, as well as a means for positioning the functional component with respect to the envelope.
This enables the envelope to have one or more specific properties at a given location. For example, as explained in the following description, the functional component may be a tubular section located in a metatarsal zone. This section is intended to locally increase the resistance of the envelope to transverse deformation. In fact, this is to facilitate support in the area of the metatarsus. As a result, the article of footwear is adapted to a practice that requires transmission of rather intense sensory information, steering forces, or ground reactions. This is the case when racing on rough terrain. But this is only an example, and the invention, as explained below, provides other possible functions for an added component.
Among the resulting advantages of this arrangement are optimized usage efficiency and reduced user fatigue. The addition of the functional component preserves the basic qualities of the envelope, namely comfort and foot support. As a result, the invention is, for example, capable of reconciling the two characteristics, including comfort and precision in the transmissions, which are a priori contradictory.
It is further shown below that the invention also relates to a method that enables the article of footwear to be manufactured more easily.
Generally speaking, it can be said that the invention improves the structure and method of manufacture of an article of footwear.
Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will be better understood from the description which follows, with reference to the annexed drawings illustrating, by way of non-limiting embodiments, how the invention can be made, and in which:
The first embodiment described below relates, for example, to an article of footwear for walking or running on flat or mountainous terrain. However, the first embodiment is applicable to other fields, such as those mentioned above.
The first embodiment is described below with reference to
As shown in
As shown, the upper of the shoe 1 comprises a lower portion 10, provided to surround the foot, and has no upper portion. Alternatively, however, an upper of a shoe of the invention encompasses one having both a lower portion and an upper portion, the latter being provided to surround the ankle and possibly the lower leg.
According to the first embodiment described, the shoe 1 extends heightwise from a bottom 12 to a top end 13, that is to say, up to the free end of the lower portion 10 or of the shoe 1. The bottom is a subdivision of the shoe, on which the foot takes support.
The shoe 1 is structured to allow good foot rolling movement during walking, transmission of sensory information and forces when taking support or jump landing. Therefore, the shoe 1, or article of footwear, is relatively flexible.
As described in detail below, the shoe 1 comprises a first envelope 21 extending lengthwise along the longitudinal direction L, from a rear end 24 to a front end 25, widthwise along the transverse direction W, between a lateral side 26 and a medial side 27, and heightwise from a bottom 28 to a top end 29. This enables the first envelope to surround and support the foot of the user. For its construction, the first envelope includes yarns linked to one another mechanically, as explained below. Also, at least a portion of the yarns of the first envelope comprises at least one hot-melt filament, as also explained below.
According to the first embodiment, and in a non-limiting manner, the yarns of the first envelope, comprising at least one hot-melt filament, are distributed over the entire first envelope 21, and the melting of the yarns during manufacture contributes, to a greater or lesser extent, depending on their quantity and concentration, to the strength and/or the adhesion and/or the abrasion resistance of the first envelope. In fact, the melting of the yarns enables the first envelope 21 to retain its shape by itself. This means that it does not collapse if no external force is applied thereto, even if it is not associated with other components. It can be said that the first envelope 21 is a unitary component, on the one hand, and that it can form a self-supporting component, on the other hand, giving shape to the shoe, to a greater or lesser extent, as a function of the quantity/concentration of the yarns. Accordingly, the first envelope 21 provides shape to the shoe 1. In other words, the rear end 24, the front end 25, the lateral side 26 and a medial side 27, the bottom 28 and the top end 29 of the first envelope demarcate the rear end 4, the front end 5, the lateral side 6, the medial side 7, the bottom 12 and the top end 13, respectively, of the article of footwear or shoe 1. The minimalist structure used for the envelope 21 ensures simplicity, lightness, and many other advantages, as explained below.
Without limitation, and still according to the first embodiment of the invention, the shoe 1 also includes a second envelope 31 extending lengthwise along the longitudinal direction L, from a rear end 34 to a front end 35, widthwise along the transverse direction W, between a lateral side 36 and a medial side 37, and heightwise from a bottom 38 to a top end 39. The second envelope 31 also covers the foot, in the same fashion as the first envelope 21. The second envelope 31 is arranged outside of the first envelope 21 and, thereby, indirectly covers the foot. The final shape of the shoe 1 is provided by both the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31. The advantage of using two envelopes will be more apparent below.
Still in the context of the invention, the second envelope 31 comprises yarns linked to one another mechanically, at least a portion of the yarns comprising at least one hot-melt filament, the yarns comprising at least one hot-melt filament being distributed over the entire second envelope 31, and the shape of the second envelope being solidified through melting of the yarns comprising at least one hot-melt filament. Here again, the melting enables the second envelope 31 to maintain its shape by itself. This means that it does not collapse if no external force is applied thereto, even if it is not associated with other components. It can be said that the second envelope 31 is a unitary component, on the one hand, and that it can form a self-supporting component, on the other hand, giving shape to the shoe, to a greater or lesser extent, as a function of the quantity/concentration of the yarns. Consequently, the second envelope 31 also provides shape of the shoe 1. In other words, the rear end 34, the front end 35, the lateral side 36, the medial side 37, the bottom 38, and the top end 39 of the second envelope 31 also demarcate the rear end 4, the front end 5, the lateral side 6, the medial side 7, the bottom 12, and the top end 13, respectively, of the article of footwear or shoe 1. The minimalist structure used for the envelope 31 ensures simplicity, lightness, and many other advantages, as explained below.
To better highlight the specificities of the invention, it is useful to describe how the envelopes 21, 31 are manufactured. This is done below with reference to
As initially shown schematically in
The sleeve 41 makes it possible to manufacture the envelopes 21, 31 in one piece. Here, the first envelope 21 and second envelope 31 are coextensive. This simplifies the manufacture by reducing the number of components and the time required for implementation.
The association of the yarns used to make the sleeve 41, and therefore the envelopes 21, 31, is presented with reference to
The sleeve 41 is manufactured, for example, with a flat knitting machine, which makes it possible to vary the cross section, that is to say, the diameter of the sleeve, to make shape variations for the heel, to create openings for passage of the laces, to vary the thickness of the wall of the sleeve, or in particular to vary the tightening of the loops. In fact, the flat knitting machine provides a wide range of adjustment possibilities, and it is adapted to make sleeves of all sizes, whether in diameter or in length. As such, the flat knitting is more practical than the circular knitting machine. Indeed, the circular knitting machine works on a reduced range in the area of the sleeve diameter. It is therefore necessary to use a plurality of different circular knitting machines to make a complete line of sleeves 41, that is to say, a complete line of shoes encompassing all shoe sizes, where a single flat knitting machine would be sufficient. In the end, a flat knitting machine makes it possible to make one or more three-dimensional envelopes, with all desired features, and to the desired shoe size.
A yarn within the context of the invention will next be defined.
First, the yarn may be a monofilament obtained, for example, by extruding a hot-melt synthetic material, such as polyamide, polyurethane, polyethylene, or any equivalent or similar material. The production of a filament is continuous, in a way comparable to silk filament produced by a spider. The filament may be mono-component or mono-material, in the sense that its transverse cross section is uniform. But the filament may also be multi-component, e.g., bi-component. In this latter case, a transverse cross section of a filament shows a core comprised of a first material, and a peripheral envelope surrounding the core, such envelope being comprised of a second material. Each material may be hot-melt, or only one material may be hot-melt. If both materials are hot-melt, their melting temperatures are different.
Next, the yarn may be multi-filament. In this case, it is obtained by associating a plurality of filaments. Such an association is schematically shown in
Furthermore, the yarn can be obtained in the form of a fiber mesh. Here, a fiber is a filament of limited length. The fibers are associated in tight contact to form the mesh, by any known technique, and especially by twisting. Fibers, especially natural fibers such as cotton, are traditionally kept together by friction. However, for the invention, the fibers are kept together either by friction or a combination of friction and melt-adhesion, or yet entirely by adhesion, because the invention uses hot-melt materials.
Having generally presented the structure of the sleeve 41, its use for the manufacture of the shoe 1 can now be explained. However, to remain in the context of the first embodiment, it is useful to first explain that the article of footwear 1, or shoe, includes a reinforcement 51. It is shown more clearly below that this reinforcement is associated with the envelopes 21, 31 by nesting at the time of manufacture of the shoe 1, in order to provide the latter with specific capabilities.
As shown in
In a non-limiting fashion, the reinforcement 51 carries a tightening device 61. The tightening device, for example, includes keepers 62 located in the area of the top end 59, as well as a lace 63 and a blocking device 64, known to one with ordinary skill in the art. It is therefore possible to tighten or loosen the reinforcement 51 and, thereby, to tighten or loosen the shoe 1, as will be more apparent below. Other tightening means may be provided.
According to the invention, as is generally understood with reference to
Given that the article of footwear 1 has concave portions and/or convex portions, the functional component 71, in most cases, also has concave portions and/or convex portions due to its conformability properties, conferred by the deformation of its mechanical structure (meshes) and/or the use of elastane filaments and/or elastic filaments.
In the specific case of the first embodiment of the invention, the functional component 71 is made from a tubular section, that is to say, a sleeve portion or sock portion. This makes it possible to arrange it at the desired location opposite the envelopes 21, 31 by slipping it onto one of the two, or on both at the same time. The sock may be devoid of a heel, or may comprise one or more heels, and the sock may be closed at one or both ends. When the functional component is in the form of a sock or an ankle sock, it makes it possible to further obtain a very precise longitudinal positioning on the envelope 21, 31, due to the stops formed by the heel and front end of the ankle sock.
For example, in a non-limiting manner, the functional component 71 is arranged on the first envelope 21. In order to understand its role, it should be noted that the article 1 has four successive zones, from the rear end 4 to the front end 5. These zones include a heel zone 72, an arch of the foot zone 73, a metatarsal zone 74, and a front zone for receiving the toes. For the first embodiment of the invention, the functional component is located in the metatarsal zone. In fact, the functional component completely bypasses the metatarsal zone, by being oriented in a transverse plane of the article of footwear 1. This provides the latter with greater resistance to transverse deformations. A resulting advantage is better support on the ground in the area of the metatarsus, with greater transverse stability.
Still in a non-limiting fashion, as will be more apparent below, the functional component 71 is housed between the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31. This facilitates its integration into the article 1.
As is the case for the envelopes 21, 31, the functional component 71 comprises yarns 44 to 48 linked to one another mechanically, at least a portion of the yarns comprising at least one hot-melt filament 49. This makes it possible to provide at least one subdivision of the functional component 71, with a stable self-supporting structure once melting has been carried out.
Here, the yarns comprising at least one hot-melt filament are distributed over the entire functional component 71, and the shape of the functional component 71 may or may not be solidified by the melting of the yarns comprising at least one hot-melt filament.
In a non-limiting fashion, and still according to the first embodiment of the invention, the positioner for positioning the functional component 71 in relation to the first envelope 21 comprises reversibly extensible yarns, in addition to the tubular shape of the sleeve portion, the yarns being associated with the structure of the functional component. This means that a portion of the yarns forming the functional component are elastic. These yarns are made of elastane, for example. In practice, the functional component 71, that is to say, the sleeve portion, due to its tubular shape and the presence of extensible yarns, is slipped onto and positioned at the desired location around the first envelope 21, as will be understood below.
Next explained is the use of the sleeve 41 for the manufacture of the shoe 1, according to
It can be understood from
Still with reference to
As understood from
By way of example, as seen in
Similarly, the second envelope 31 has three zones 101, 102, 103 having different mechanical properties. These properties again are dependent upon the percentage of hot-melt filaments contained in the yarns. Without limitation, a first zone 101 with a high concentration of hot-melt filaments, for example between 60 and 100%, is provided here. The first zone 101 demarcates the bottom 38 and the periphery of the bottom. An intermediate or second zone 102 with an average concentration of hot-melt filaments, for example between 30 and 70%, is then provided. The second zone extends mainly in the area of the lateral 36 and medial 37 sides. A third zone 103 with a low concentration of hot-melt filaments, for example between 5 and 40%, is finally provided. The third zone extends mainly in the area of the top end 39. This arrangement renders the second envelope 31 relatively inflexible towards the bottom 38, but progressively flexible towards the top end 39. Here again, the flexibility towards the top end enables the second envelope 31 to remain pressed onto the foot, the ankle or the lower leg, and thereby prevents the intrusion of foreign bodies. Again, an envelope comprising an elastic yarn kept tensioned provides good foot support.
For each envelope 21, 31, the melting of filaments determines the physical or mechanical properties in proportion to the hot-melt filaments. For example, the greater their number is, in percentage, the higher the resistance to abrasion. Conversely, if the percentage of hot-melt filaments is reduced, the elasticity is maintained. In other words, the higher the percentage of hot-melt filaments, the higher the resistance to abrasion and, by corollary, the elasticity is reduced. Conversely, if the percentage of hot-melt filaments is low, then the resistance to abrasion is low and, by corollary, the elasticity is significant.
Ultimately, when the envelopes 21, 31 and the functional component 71 are assembled, the flexibility of the shoe 1 increases vertically from the bottom 12 to the top end 13. This enables the shoe to support the foot, on the one hand, and to reversibly widen in the area of the top end 13 in order to make it easier to put on or remove the shoe, on the other hand.
However, the aforementioned arrangements of the envelopes are not limiting. In particular, each envelope and the functional component 71 can be provided with the desired properties, such as elasticity, waterproofness, wear resistance, fungicidal properties, the desired aesthetic appearance, or the like.
Still according to the first embodiment, the thickness of the first envelope 21 is less than or equal to 5.0 mm, considering that values of less than or equal to 3.0 mm have yielded good results. This lightens the first envelope 21.
Similarly, the thickness of the second envelope 31 is less than or equal to 5.0 mm, considering that values of less than or equal to 3.0 mm have yielded good results. This lightens the second envelope 31.
The thickness of the functional component 71 is less than or equal to 3.0 mm. This makes it lighter.
For each component 21, 31, 71, thickness is measured after melting of the yarns comprising at least one hot-melt filament.
Ultimately, the shoe 1 according to the invention is lighter than a shoe according to the prior art, with comparable technical specifications.
The other embodiments of the invention are briefly described below with reference to
Thus, the second embodiment, according to
What is specific to the second embodiment is the structure of the preform or sleeve 41. The sleeve extends well between a first end 42, which is for example closed, and a second open end 43. However, the sleeve 41 is sized to obtain the first envelope 21 only, to the exclusion of any other envelope or envelope subdivision. Accordingly, it is the open end 43 of the first envelope 21 which alone demarcates the foot insertion opening 84. The shoe 1 according to the second embodiment therefore comprises the first envelope 21, the functional component 71, and the reinforcement 51, with its tightening device 61, to the exclusion of any additional envelope. It can also be said that the reinforcement 51 covers the first envelope 21. This means that the shoe 1 is further lighter than the shoe according to the first embodiment. Also provided is an outer sole assembly 78 for the shoe according to the second embodiment, although this is not essential.
For the third embodiment, according to
What is specific to the second embodiment is that it comprises a plurality of functional components. In this case, the functional component 111, towards the rear 24, is a rear stiffener. It is also a three-dimensional element. Towards the front, the functional component 121 is a front end piece. It is also a three-dimensional element. These elements 111, 121, for example, improve the resistance to abrasion, or provide greater rigidity. The three-dimensional shape facilitates placement and positioning.
The invention is not limited to the embodiments described above, and includes all technical equivalents that fall within the scope of the claims that follow.
In particular, one or more functional components 71, 111, 121 may be provided.
Each functional component is arranged either inside an envelope or outside of an envelope, or between two envelopes, depending upon the desired technical effects.
In certain cases, the positioner to position the functional component 71, 111, 121 with respect to the envelope 21, 31 comprises an adhesive product.
In other cases, the positioner to position the functional component with respect to the envelope comprises fastening elements.
The invention is applicable to any type of shoe having an upper made of a compatible material. In this case, the upper is mounted on a last, and then the functional component having predetermined characteristics is positioned on the upper and glued, before the outer sole assembly is finally added.
The invention relates to a method for manufacturing an article of footwear comprising a first envelope, the first envelope extending lengthwise from a rear end to a front end, widthwise between a lateral side and a medial side, and heightwise from a bottom to a top end, the method comprising a step of adding a functional component to the lasted envelope before assembly with an outer sole assembly.
In this manufacturing method according to the invention, the functional component is provided with a positioner, for example by using a tubular section/sock portion or other three-dimensional shape enabling easy positioning, and also by using extensible material, for example for the tubular section/sock portion.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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14/01631 | Jul 2014 | FR | national |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
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PCT/FR2015/000136 | 7/7/2015 | WO | 00 |