Articles of footwear often include two primary elements, an upper and a sole structure, the upper being configured to contain or at least partially surround the foot, and the sole structure being configured to contact the ground. The upper is often formed from a plurality of material elements (for example, textiles, polymer sheets, foam layers, leather, and/or synthetic leather) that are stitched and/or adhesively bonded together to form an interior cavity for receiving a foot of a wearer.
During manufacturing, an article of footwear may be assembled on or around a last. Accordingly, the size and shape of the last determines the size and shape of the interior cavity defined by the upper when the article of footwear is assembled. These footwear components may be assembled together using various methods, including, for example, stitching, adhesives, welding, and other joining techniques. Articles of footwear may be assembled, at least in part, on a structure called a “last.” A last is a form having the general shape of a human foot. A last is not typically shaped like any particular type of foot, but rather is formed having a shape with dimensions that are averages of many different foot types. This enables the footwear manufactured using the last to fit a variety of foot types.
When assembling a shoe using a last, one or more pieces of upper material may be assembled, or otherwise placed, on a last. These pieces of upper material are tightened around the last and secured to one another. Then one or more sole structure components may be secured to the upper while the upper is formed around the last.
In some cases, a strobel or sole board may be used to form the bottom of the shoe before the sole structure is attached. The peripheral edges of the upper may be affixed to the strobel during the lasting process to ensure that the upper takes the desired shape around the last. However, it may be desirable to produce a shoe without a strobel, in order to reduce weight and/or to eliminate any restrictions that the properties of the strobel may put on the ability to tune the performance characteristics of the footwear. In such cases, a technique is sometimes used to hold the peripheral edges securely around the last. For example, string lasting is used, which involves using loops at the peripheral edges of the upper, threading a lasting string through the loops and pulling the string tight the draw the edges of the upper toward one another around the periphery of the last bottom. With the edges of the upper drawn firmly in place and held by the lasting string, the sole structure may be attached to the upper.
Lasting loops can be difficult to construct with desired strength. If loops and lasting string are used with sufficient strength, these components can be undesirably thick, such that bumps are formed that are difficult to smooth out using the sole structure and/or insoles. It is desirable to provide a string lasting construction that addresses one or more of these issues discussed above.
In one aspect, an article of footwear includes a sole structure and an upper secured to the sole structure. The upper is configured to receive a foot of a wearer and has a peripheral region. Further, the upper includes a ribbon structure formed of a plurality of ribbon sections, and a plurality of ribbon loops extending from a peripheral region of the upper.
In another aspect, an article of footwear includes an upper configured to receive a foot of a wearer, the upper having a peripheral region. The upper includes a ribbon structure formed of a plurality of ribbon sections, and a plurality of ribbon loops extending from a peripheral region of the upper. One or more of the plurality of ribbon loops are formed of end portions of the ribbon sections forming the ribbon structure.
In another aspect, the present disclosure is directed to a method of manufacturing an article of footwear. The method includes forming a piece of upper material including a ribbon structure formed by a plurality of ribbon sections, the piece of upper material having a shape configured to form an upper for an article of footwear. In addition, the method includes mounting the piece of upper material onto a last and drawing peripheral edges of the upper material toward one another at the bottom of the last by performing a string lasting process. The string lasting process includes threading a lasting string through a plurality of ribbon loops extending from a peripheral region of the piece of upper material, and pulling the lasting string the tighten the piece of upper material around the last.
In another aspect, the present disclosure is directed to a method of manufacturing an article of footwear. The method may include forming a piece of upper material including an embroidered peripheral portion and a plurality of embroidered loops extending from the peripheral portion, the piece of upper material having a shape configured to form an upper for the article of footwear. The method may also include mounting the piece of upper material onto a last, and drawing peripheral edges of the piece of upper material toward one another at the bottom of the last by performing a string lasting process. The string lasting process may include threading a lasting string through the plurality of embroidered loops; and pulling the lasting string to produce tension in the lasting string and tighten the piece of upper material around the last. In addition, the method may also include fixedly attaching the peripheral portion of the piece of upper material to a strobel.
Other systems, methods, features, and advantages of the embodiments will be, or will become, apparent to one of ordinary skill in the art upon examination of the following figures and detailed description. It is intended that all such additional systems, methods, features, and advantages be included within this description and this summary, be within the scope of the embodiments, and be protected by the following claims.
The embodiments can be better understood with reference to the following drawings and description. The components in the figures are not necessarily to scale, with emphasis instead being placed upon illustrating the principles of the embodiments. Moreover, in the figures, like reference numerals designate corresponding parts throughout the different views.
The embodiments are related to an article including one or more ribbons, or portions of ribbon (e.g., a ribbon section). As used herein, the term “article” refers broadly to articles of footwear, articles of apparel (e.g., clothing), as well as accessories and/or equipment. For the purposes of general reference, an article is any item designed to be worn by or on a user, or act as an accessory. In some embodiments, an article may be an article of footwear, such as a shoe, sandal, boot, etc. In other embodiments, an article may be an article of apparel, such as a garment, including shirts, pants, jackets, socks, undergarments, or any other conventional item. In still other embodiments, an article may be an accessory such as a hat, glove, or bag worn by the wearer.
Articles of footwear include, but are not limited to, hiking boots, soccer shoes, football shoes, sneakers, running shoes, cross-training shoes, rugby shoes, basketball shoes, baseball shoes as well as other kinds of shoes. Moreover, in some embodiments, components may be configured for various kinds of non-sports-related footwear, including, but not limited to, slippers, sandals, high-heeled footwear, loafers as well as any other kinds of footwear. Articles of apparel include, but are not limited to, socks, pants, shorts, shirts, sweaters, undergarments, hats, gloves, as well as other kinds of garments. Accessories include scarves, bags, purses, backpacks, as well as other accessories. Equipment may include various kinds of sporting equipment including, but not limited to, bats, balls, various sporting gloves (e.g., baseball mitts, football gloves, ski gloves, etc.), golf clubs, as well as other kinds of sporting equipment.
To assist and clarify the subsequent description of various embodiments, various terms are defined herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the following definitions apply throughout this specification (including the claims). For consistency and convenience, directional adjectives are employed throughout this detailed description corresponding to the illustrated embodiments.
For purposes of general reference, as illustrated in
The term “longitudinal,” as used throughout this detailed description and in the claims, refers to a direction extending along the length of a component. For example, a longitudinal direction of an article of footwear extends from forefoot region 101 to heel region 105 of article of footwear 100. The term “forward” or “front” is used to refer to the general direction in which the toes of a foot point, and the term “rearward” or “back” is used to refer to the opposite direction, i.e., the direction in which the heel of the foot is facing.
The term “lateral direction,” as used throughout this detailed description and in the claims, refers to a side-to-side direction extending along the width of a component. In other words, the lateral direction may extend between medial side 107 and lateral side 109 of article of footwear 100, with lateral side 109 of article of footwear 100 being the surface that faces away from the other foot, and medial side 107 being the surface that faces toward the other foot.
The term “vertical,” as used throughout this detailed description and in the claims, refers to a direction generally perpendicular to both the lateral and longitudinal directions. For example, in cases where an article of footwear is planted flat on a ground surface, the vertical direction may extend from the ground surface upward. It will be understood that each of these directional adjectives may be applied to individual components of an article of footwear. The term “upward” refers to the vertical direction heading away from a ground surface, while the term “downward” refers to the vertical direction heading toward the ground surface. Similarly, the terms “top,” “upper,” and other similar terms refer to the portion of an object substantially furthest from the ground in a vertical direction, and the terms “bottom,” “lower,” and other similar terms refer to the portion of an object substantially closest to the ground in a vertical direction.
It will be understood that the forefoot region, the midfoot region, and the heel region are only intended for purposes of description and are not intended to demarcate precise regions of an article of footwear. For example, in some cases, one or more of the regions may overlap. Likewise, the medial side and the lateral side are intended to represent generally two sides, rather than precisely demarcating an article of footwear into two halves. In addition, the forefoot region, the midfoot region, and the heel region, as well as the medial side and the lateral side, may also be applied to individual components of an article of footwear, including a sole structure, an upper, a lacing system, and/or any other component associated with the article.
Article of footwear 100 may include upper 102 and sole or “sole structure” 104 (see also
Upper 102 provides a covering for the wearer's foot that comfortably receives and securely positions the foot with respect to the sole structure. In general, as shown in
Upper 102 may also include other known features in the art including heel tabs, loops, etc. Furthermore, upper 102 may include a toe cage or box in the forefront region. Even further, upper 102 may include logos, trademarks, and instructions for care.
Upper 102 may include a fastener on a fastening region of the upper. For example, the fastening provision may be lacing system 122, or “lace,” applied at a fastening region of upper 102. Other kinds of fastening provisions, include, but are not limited to, laces, cables, straps, buttons, zippers as well as any other provisions known in the art for fastening articles. For a lacing system, the fastening region may comprise one or more eyelets. The fastening region may comprise one or more tabs, loops, hooks, D-rings, hollows, or any other provisions known in the art for fastening regions.
Sole structure 104 is positioned between a foot of a wearer and the ground, and may incorporate various component elements. For example, sole structure 104 may include one or more of inner sole components or “insoles,” a middle sole element or “midsole,” and an outer sole element or “outsole.” An insole may take the form of a sockliner adjacent the wearer's foot to provide a comfortable contact surface for the wearer's foot. It will be understood that an insole may be optional. Further, a midsole may directly serve as a cushion and support for the foot. In addition, an outsole may be configured to contact the ground surface.
Upper 102 and sole structure 104 may be coupled using any conventional or suitable manner, such as adhesion or bonding, via a woven connection, via one or more types of fasteners, etc. In some cases, a sole structure and an upper may be combined together in a single unitary construction.
Sole structure 104 may contact a ground surface and have various features to deal with the ground surface. Examples of ground surfaces include, but are not limited to, indoor ground surfaces such as wood and concrete floors, pavement, natural turf, synthetic turf, dirt, as well as other surfaces. In some cases, the lower portions of sole structure 104 may include provisions for traction, including, but not limited to, traction elements, studs, and/or cleats.
Sole structure 104 may be made of a variety of any suitable material or pluralities of materials for a variety of functions. For example, one or more components of sole structure 104, such as the midsole, may be formed from a polymer foam (e.g., a polyurethane or ethylvinylacetate foam) material that attenuates ground reaction forces (i.e., provides cushioning) during walking, running, and other ambulatory activities. In addition, the components of a sole may also include gels, fluid-filled chambers, plates, moderators, inserts, or other elements that further attenuate forces, enhance stability, or influence the motions of the foot. In addition, the other components may have specific surface properties, such as an outsole being made from a durable material, such as carbon or blown rubber, which is further textured to impart traction. Furthermore, the insole may be made from a waterproof material such as ethylvinylacetate to prevent moisture seeping into the sole.
For purposes of this disclosure, the term “fixedly attached” shall refer to two components joined in a manner such that the components may not be readily separated (for example, without destroying one or both of the components). Exemplary modalities of fixed attachment may include joining with permanent adhesive, rivets, stitches, nails, staples, welding or other thermal bonding, or other joining techniques. In addition, two components may be “fixedly attached” by virtue of being integrally formed, for example, in a molding process.
For purposes of this disclosure, the term “removably attached” shall refer to the joining of two components in a manner such that the two components are secured together, but may be readily detached from one another. Examples of removable attachment mechanisms may include hook and loop fasteners, friction fit connections, interference fit connections, threaded connectors, cam-locking connectors, and other such readily detachable connectors. Similarly, “removably disposed” shall refer to the assembly of two components in a non-permanent fashion.
The term “strand” includes a single fiber, filament, or monofilament, as well as an ordered assemblage of textile fibers having a high ratio of length to diameter and normally used as a unit (e.g., slivers, roving, single yarns, plies yarns, cords, braids, ropes, etc.). The term “thread” as used herein may refer to a strand used for stitching.
The embodiments discuss methods of embroidering or sewing one or more elements to a substrate. Embroidering an element to a substrate comprises stitching the element in place with a thread, yarn, or other strand of material.
The present application is directed to an upper including ribbon and portions or sections of ribbon. As used herein, the term “ribbon” refers to a long, narrow strip of material. In addition to the provisions described herein and shown in the figures, the embodiments may make use of any of the structures, components, and/or methods for articles with ribbon as disclosed in Luedecke et al., U.S. Patent Application Number 2019/0017205, currently U.S. application Ser. No. 15/648,638, filed Jul. 13, 2017 and titled “Article with Embroidered Tape Segments,” the entirety of which is herein incorporated by reference.
While the exemplary embodiment includes eyelet reinforcing elements 204, other embodiments may not include reinforcing elements. In some cases, eyelets may be formed from openings in a border element.
Upper 102 may further include inner lining 120. Inner lining 120 could be any kind of lining known in the art for use in footwear. In some cases, inner lining 120 could be a knit or mesh lining. In still other cases, upper 102 may not include an inner lining and instead ribbon structure 200 could be a freestanding structure.
In some cases, ribbon sections could be separate segments or pieces (i.e., detached at their ends from one another). In other cases, ribbon sections could be part of a continuous ribbon with no natural boundary between adjacent sections.
A ribbon may generally have a width that is greater than its thickness, giving the ribbon a two-dimensional appearance in contrast to threads or other strands that have a one-dimensional appearance. The dimensions of one or more ribbons could vary. For example, the thickness of a ribbon could vary in a range between approximately 0.2 millimeters and 1 millimeter. As another example, the width of a ribbon could vary in a range between approximately 2 millimeters and approximately 6 millimeters (e.g., 3 millimeters). If the width is substantially less than 2 millimeters the ribbon may be more difficult to stitch, weld, or otherwise attach to a backing layer or other element (e.g., another ribbon). If the width is substantially greater than 6 millimeters, the ribbon may tend to bend or fold with respect to a lengthwise direction, which may make attachment more difficult. The length of the ribbon may vary according to the particular pattern or design for an article and may generally be 10 millimeters or more. For purposes of clarity,
The material of one or more ribbons may vary. The ribbons may be formed of a generally flexible textile or fabric that resists elongation. The material could also be any material including a thermoplastic. Examples of thermoplastics include, but are not limited to: thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), acrylic, nylon, polylactic acid (PLA), polyethylene, or acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) or ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA). Ribbons may be made from a foam, a film, and/or a composite with multiple layers—including polymer layers and fabric layers, for example.
A ribbon may be made of a material that undergoes little to no stretch under tension. This may help ensure the ribbon provides strength and support to parts of a foot along a tensioned direction. In some cases, the ribbon could stretch less than 40% of its pre-stretched length before inelastically deforming or before individual fibers begin to break. In some cases, the ribbon could stretch less than 20% of its pre-stretched length before inelastically deforming or before individual fibers begin to break. In one case, the ribbon could stretch less than 10% of its pre-stretched length before inelastically deforming or before individual fibers begin to break. That is, in one case, the ribbon could undergo elastic deformation of up to 10% of its pre-stretched length and return to its pre-stretched length without permanent change to its structure. To accommodate the stretch of a ribbon, the thread used to embroider or otherwise stitch the ribbon in place may be selected to have a degree of stretch that matches the degree of stretch of the ribbon, or which is greater than the degree of stretch of the ribbon.
Ribbons can have a knit, braided or woven construction. Ribbons could be made of a woven material that resists stretching. Moreover, the woven material may comprise a 0 and 90 degree weave arranged as a single layer.
Ribbons could be made of materials that expand under heat and/or pressure. Exemplary expanding materials include foam materials, expanding polymers, expanding films, and/or other expandable materials.
A border element 202 may extend around the edges or periphery of upper 102. In some cases, border element 202 may be an embroidered structure comprised of thread that has been stitched through ribbon structure 200 (as well as possibly other layers including a backing layer).
Border element 202 may comprise a continuous element that extends around the entire periphery of border element 202. Alternatively, border element 202 may be discontinuous and may have gaps along the periphery.
A border element may comprise threads stitched to another layer (e.g., a ribbon layer and/or a substrate/backing layer). A border element may comprise a standalone structure of threads that have been stitched together to form an interlocking matrix. The embroidered regions and/or structures of the present disclosure may utilize any of the structures, patterns, or features disclosed in Berns et al., U.S. Publication Number 2015/0272272, published on Oct. 1, 2015, and titled “Footwear Including Textile Element,” the entirety of which is herein incorporated by reference and referred to as the “Embroidered Structures Application.”
As discussed in the Embroidered Structures Application, some embodiments may incorporate self-supporting embroidered structures with threads or yarns arranged in a matrix that lacks a backing or support layer. Such embroidered structures could be formed by first stitching threads to a backing layer and later removing the backing layer. The embodiments can use any of the methods for forming embroidered structures as disclosed in the Embroidered Structures Application.
Threads used for embroidery or other forms of stitching may be comprised from a variety of materials. For example, thread may be made of polymer materials including nylon, polyethylene, TPU, PVA, or EVA as well as Dyneema fiber made from Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethylene. Thread may also include a blend of polymer materials and may include nitrile rubber. Thread also may be made from more conventional materials including cotton, silk, or other natural fibers disclosed herein. Other materials that may be used include, but are not limited to, nylon, polyester, polyacrylic, polypropylene, polyethylene, metal, silk, cellulosic fibers, elastomers, etc. Thread also may be made from any known synthetic equivalent. In some cases, exposing the thread to heat or pressure may cause the thread to melt or fuse. In other cases, exposing the thread to heat or pressure may cause the thread to dissolve. In still other cases, the thread may dissolve when exposed to a solvent, such as acid or water.
Threads may be comprised of a material that stretches lengthwise under tension. For example, in some embodiments, a thread could be an elastic thread. As an example, an elastic thread comprised of 60-70% polyester and 30-40% polyurethane could be used.
A first kind of thread may be used to embroider or otherwise stitch ribbons in place on a backing layer or other substrate. In addition, one or more border elements may be formed by further stitching over the ribbons and/or substrate layers using a second kind of thread. In some cases, the first and second kinds of thread could be similar kinds of threads. In other cases, however, the first and second kinds of thread could be different kinds of threads. For example, in some cases, the first kind of thread used to embroider down ribbons may have a narrower diameter than the second kind of thread used to form one or more border elements. Additionally, in some cases, the first and second kinds of thread could have different colors with the first kind of thread having a color that matches the color of ribbons and the second kind of thread having a color that is different (but perhaps complimentary to) than the color of the ribbons.
A backing layer, or backer layer, may be used during the embroidery process. A backing layer, in general, provides a layer to which one or more elements may be stitched. In some embodiments, a backing layer may remain after manufacturing to provide, for example, an inner lining for an article. Alternatively, the backing layer may be melted into the article. A backing layer could also be separated from other elements of an article after embroidering one or more ribbon sections into place. For example, the backing layer could be dissolved. Some embodiments can include an optional backing layer that may be distinct from an inner lining of an upper.
The materials of backing layers may vary. Backing layers or sheets may be used as an anti-abrasion layer, and may be made of a material soft to the skin, such as silk or cotton, as well as synthetic-like equivalents such as nylon, or foam materials. Backing layers may be used to prevent an article from stretching during embroidery, and may be used from a harder more rigid substance, such as a sheet made from TPU, PVA, or EVA. Backing layers also may be made from a fusible material such as EV, or a dissolvable material such as TPU, PVA, or EVA. Furthermore, backing layers may combine various materials for different purposes for different sections. For example, a rigid dissolvable backing material may be used in combination with a soft permanent backing layer. The backing layer may include a mesh. More specifically, the mesh may be elastic. It may be appreciated that any of the materials described here for backing layers could be used for ribbons.
Referring first to
With respect to these edges and sides, ribbon structure 200 extends substantially continuously throughout interior region 150 bounded by outer peripheral edge 220 and inner peripheral edge 222. In some cases, one or more continuous ribbons of ribbon structure 200 wind back and forth between inner peripheral edge 222 and outer peripheral edge 220. In the exemplary embodiment of
Also, in some cases, ribbon structure 200 extends along outer peripheral edge 220 and inner peripheral edge 222. Specifically, border element 202 extends along outer peripheral edge 220 and inner peripheral edge 222 but does not extend throughout the entirety of interior region 150.
A ribbon structure could be comprised of a single layer. As used herein, a layer of ribbon refers to an arrangement of one or more ribbons along an approximately two-dimensional surface. A ribbon structure could be comprised of two or more ribbon layers. In the exemplary embodiment of
In general, ribbons could be arranged in a variety of different patterns including, but not limited to, lattice patterns, grid patterns, web patterns, various mesh patterns as well as any other kinds of patterns. The type of pattern, including characteristics such as the spacing between adjacent ribbon sections, the sizes of ribbon sections (length, width, and thicknesses), and the relative arrangements of ribbon sections (stacked, woven, etc.), can be varied to achieve particular characteristics for the resulting structure including particular strength, flexibility, durability, weight, etc. It may be appreciated that using ribbons rather than cords can provide more positive engagement and more surface area to connect adjacent layers of ribbon. Furthermore, ribbons can be constructed with substantially small thicknesses so that the overall thickness of a ribbon structure can be kept substantially small, even when the ribbon structure is comprised of multiple ribbon layers.
Patterns may be formed by laying down ribbon sections in substantially straight and/or substantially curved paths within one or more layers. As used herein, a substantially straight ribbon path has a substantially higher radius of curvature than a substantially curved ribbon path.
Ribbon patterns within each layer may be created by laying down continuous ribbons in paths that have sections that are substantially straight and sections that are substantially curved. Patterns may include one or more “turns”, or switchbacks, that result in a substantial change in the ribbon direction, thereby allowing the ribbons to wind (or weave) back and forth between the peripheral edges of the ribbon structure.
As an example, third ribbon layer 314 is comprised of three continuous ribbons that wind back and forth in a pattern bounded by the peripheral edges of upper 102. These continuous ribbons include both substantially straight ribbon sections (i.e., ribbon section 330) and substantially curved ribbon sections (i.e., ribbon section 332). Moreover, the curved ribbon sections are sections where the ribbon “turns” back and reverses directions (i.e., the curved ribbon sections form switchbacks). So, for example, one can follow ribbon section 330 along a first approximately lateral direction toward ribbon section 332. At ribbon section 332, the ribbon turns around and one can follow ribbon section 334 in a second approximately lateral direction away from ribbon section 332. Likewise, both of second ribbon layer 312 and first ribbon layer 310 are comprised of one or more continuous ribbons arranged in winding paths including both substantially straight sections and substantially curved sections.
Different ribbon layers may be associated with different orientations. That is, each layer may be comprised of straight ribbon sections that extend approximately along a single direction (or axis). For example, second ribbon layer 312 is comprised of straight ribbon sections 340 that are approximately oriented along a longitudinal direction of upper 102. Also, first ribbon layer 310 is comprised of straight ribbon sections 342 that extend along various non-longitudinal directions. Likewise, third ribbon layer 314 also is comprised of straight ribbon sections 344 that extend along various non-longitudinal directions. It may be appreciated that the orientations of ribbon sections within a layer may vary. However, in some cases, the orientations of ribbon sections in different layers could vary in a predetermined manner so that the relative orientations of the different layers are preserved throughout different regions of an upper.
The orientations of the ribbon sections in each of first ribbon layer 310, second ribbon layer 312, and third ribbon layer 314 may be selected so that when these layers are assembled they form a triaxial pattern, as clearly seen in
The geometry of a ribbon structure may vary with different patterns, including variations in the number of layers, orientations of strands and relative spacing between ribbon sections being selected according to intended uses of an article. A ribbon structure comprising ribbon sections that are attached at various intersection points may provide improved flexibility, comfort, and reduce pressure points when compared to conventional upper materials. As a specific example, a triaxial ribbon pattern may be useful for distributing stresses along three distinct directions, thereby reducing the stress in any single direction.
As seen in
Within first cutaway section 400, a first partial-loop is shown comprising several sections of third ribbon layer 314: First straight ribbon section 410, second straight ribbon section 412, and curved ribbon section 414. Similar partial-loops of first ribbon layer 310 are also visible within first cutaway section 400.
The partial-loops of ribbon structure 200 extending along inner peripheral edge 222 may correspond with the locations of eyelets in upper 102. However, in other cases, the partial-loops may not correspond with the locations of eyelets in an upper.
Within second cutaway section 402, another partial-loop is shown comprising several sections of third ribbon layer 314: Third straight ribbon section 420, fourth straight ribbon section 422, and curved ribbon section 424. Similar partial-loops of first ribbon layer 310 are also visible within second cutaway section 402.
Thus, as seen in
A ribbon structure may be formed by attaching one or more ribbon layers to a backing layer. The ribbon layers may each be embroidered to the backing layer. Specifically, a first ribbon layer may be embroidered onto a backing layer. Then, a second ribbon layer may be embroidered onto the first ribbon layer and the backing layer. Then, a third ribbon layer may be embroidered onto the second ribbon layer, the first ribbon layer, and the backing layer.
Ribbons can be attached to substrate materials using any of the principles, methods, systems, and teachings disclosed in any of the following applications: Berns et al., U.S. Patent Application Publication Number 2016/0316856, published Nov. 3, 2016 and titled “Footwear Upper Including Strand Layers”; Berns et al., U.S. Patent Application Publication Number 2016/0316855, published Nov. 3, 2016 and titled “Footwear Upper Including Variable Stitch Density”; and Berns et al., U.S. Patent Application Publication Number 2015/0272274, published Oct. 1, 2015 and titled “Footwear Including Textile Element,” the entirety of each application being herein incorporated by reference. Embodiments can use any known systems and methods for feeding ribbon to an embroidery or sewing machine including any of the systems and/or methods described in Miyachi et al., U.S. Pat. No. 5,673,639, issued Oct. 7, 1997 and titled “Method of feeding a piece of tape to a belt loop sewing machine and tape feeder for effecting same,” the entirety of which is herein incorporated by reference.
The technique of stitching the ribbon sections to a substrate may vary. The stitch technique used may include chain stitch, double chain stitch, the buttonhole or blanket stitch, the running stitch, the satin stitch, the cross stitch, or any other stitch technique known in the art. A combination of known stitch techniques may also be used. These techniques may be used individually or in combination to stitch either individual ribbon sections or groups of ribbon sections in place. Moreover, the stitch length can also be varied.
The stitches may form a pattern. When the stitching is performed by a machine, the machine may use a computer-generated program to control the stitching, including the locations of the stitching relative to an underlying substrate, as well as how and which ribbon sections to feed, how to stitch the ribbon sections, and the technique of stitching used.
In some cases, only a single type of ribbon is stitched using a machine. In other cases, multiple types of ribbon may be stitched using the same ribbon-feeding assembly. In still other cases, an embroidery device may have multiple feeding assemblies to embroider multiple ribbon sections at the same time.
The method of stitching used to attach one or more ribbon sections may vary. The thread could be stitched around a ribbon section, thereby securing the ribbon in place on a substrate layer. That is, the thread could be stitched to the backing layer on one side of the ribbon section, passed over the opposing side of the ribbon section and then stitched to the backing layer, such that the stitch never passes through the ribbon section. Alternatively, thread could be stitched directly through a ribbon section. A ribbon section could have preconfigured holes for receiving stitches. Alternatively, a needle may pierce a ribbon section to place a stitch through the ribbon section.
As seen in
In some embodiments, the ribbon sections may be fixedly attached to one another and/or to underlying base layers (e.g., a mesh layer) using thermal bonding, such as the welding or thermoplastic polyurethane ribbons. Accordingly, the ribbon structures discussed herein can be formed using any of the procedures and configurations described in Luedecke, et al., U.S. Pat. No. 10,758,007, entitled “Article with Thermally Bonded Ribbon Structure and Method of Making” (U.S. application Ser. No. 16/026,683 filed on Jul. 3, 2018), the entire disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.
In
As seen in
Although the ribbon shown in
As ribbon sections are curved, they may undergo various kinds of distortion, such as folding, bending, buckling, ruffling, pinching, and/or other kinds of deviations from the natural geometry of a straight ribbon section. Depending on the type of tension applied along a corner section, the ribbon could deform in various ways. In some cases, the inner edge of the curved section may tend to bunch or pinch, and the outer edge of the curved section may stretch and even pop up out of the plane of the ribbon layer. In other cases, curved portions may simply develop ruffles or folds along one or both of the inner and outer edges.
Although
The ruffling along the curved ribbon sections may create an uneven surface along the periphery of an upper. Some embodiments may therefore include provisions that help create a smoother peripheral surface.
Moreover, it may be seen by comparing
Alternatively, in another embodiment, rather than acting to “tack down” the raised portions of a curved ribbon section, an embroidered border element could be formed with substantially long stitches that extend higher from a backing layer than any portions of the ribbon. For example,
Curved ribbon sections may provide additional functionality along the periphery of an article of footwear. For example, curved ribbon sections may be used to form lace loops for an article of footwear. Additionally, or alternatively, as described in further detail below, in some embodiments, curved ribbon sections at the peripheral edge of the upper may form loops through which a lasting string may be threaded.
In contrast to strands or other substantially one-dimensional materials that may be used, for example, in meshes, ribbon or substantially two-dimensional pieces of material (e.g., strips) may better resist stretching under tension, especially in a longitudinal direction. In some cases, using ribbons may also help increase comfort due to the increased surface contact area between the ribbons and a foot (or overlying layer of the foot, such as a sock, or other liner in the footwear).
The exemplary embodiments provide an upper including a ribbon structure. A ribbon structure may be comprised of continuous lengths of ribbon arranged into a pattern of overlapping ribbon portions or sections. Using a continuous ribbon to form multiple ribbon sections may help improve the efficiency of manufacturing by reducing the number of times a machine laying and attaching ribbon needs to stop or pause, and/or by reducing the need to include steps of cutting ribbons (either as the ribbon is laid down and/or prior to this). Moreover, by using a continuous ribbon, the tendency of separate pieces of ribbon to separate at attachment points (e.g., stitching or welding points) may be reduced, resulting in increased strength and durability for the upper.
In some embodiments, a plurality of ribbon loops may be provided at the peripheral region of the upper to facilitate string lasting. As explained in greater detail with respect to
In some embodiments, ribbon may be used for lasting loops through which lasting string may be threaded. Using ribbon for lasting loops provides several advantages. For example, using ribbon enables a loop to be formed with a greater amount of material (e.g., a larger cross-sectional area), without increasing thickness. This minimizes any undulations or bumps that must be covered over at the peripheral edges of the upper and between the insole and the sole structure. Thus, stronger lasting loops can be utilized without any additional penalty in terms of the thickness of the loops as compared to simply using a heavier duty loop with a circular cross-section (e.g., string, cable, cord, etc.). Ribbon loops can also be conveniently formed when portions of the upper are formed of ribbon as well. Accordingly, manufacturing efficiencies can be realized by using ribbon lasting loops.
As shown in
Upper 1502 includes a peripheral region 1515. At peripheral region 1515, upper 1502 may include a border element 1520. Border element 1520 covers over the edge region of the ribbon structure and generally secures the ribbon sections in place relative to one another. Border element 1520 may have any suitable configuration, including, for example, the configurations discussed herein. For instance, border element 1520 may be formed of embroidery stitching.
In addition to fixing the edges of the ribbon sections, border element 1520 may provide a sturdy base upon which a plurality of lasting loops may be fixedly attached. For example, as shown in
In some embodiments, the ribbon lasting loops may be separate components that are fixedly attached to the upper. By using separate, attachable loops, the loops can be used regardless of what material is used to construct the upper. Such loops can be used on an upper that is formed of any material, whether it includes a ribbon structure or not. Further, by separately attaching ribbon loops, the placement of the ribbon loops may be selected based on what is best for string lasting irrespective of how the ribbon segments of the ribbon structure are disposed to form the upper. Further, a greater or lesser number of ribbon loops may be used if the loops are separate, attachable components.
As shown in
In some embodiments, the ribbon loops may formed by folding lengths of ribbon. This prevents buckling at the apex of the loops. For example, as shown in
Any suitable construction may be used for the lasting string. For example, lasting string may be formed of monofilament, woven or braided threads or cables, twisted fibers, or any other construction having the desired tensile strength and inelasticity. Various materials may be used, including natural materials, such as cotton, synthetic materials, such as nylon, or other polymers, various metals, and any other material having the desired strength, weight, size, and/or flexibility properties.
It will be understood that the threading and arrangement of the lasting strings discussed herein can vary. In some cases, the string may only circle the perimeter of the sole region. In other cases, the lasting string may be passed back and forth across the sole in one or more locations, as shown in
In some cases, the lasting string may be threaded through the same ribbon loop more than once. For example, in one or more areas of the sole, the lasting string may be doubled up as it passes through the ribbon loops. In some embodiments, one region of the sole may have doubled lasting string through the loops and another region of the same sole may have the lasting string passing through the loops only once. For example, in some cases the lasting string may be doubled up in the forefoot region, but single-threaded in the heel region. In such embodiments, the lasting string may extend across the midfoot region from the medial side of the footwear to the lateral side of the footwear.
The flatness and/or folded configuration of ribbon loops may facilitate double threading of lasting string. Because of the flatness and/or folded configuration of ribbon loops, the lasting string may lie side-by-side when doubled up, instead of vertically stacked. In addition, even if the double-threaded lasting string does stack vertically in certain places, the flatness of the ribbon loops may ensure that the combined thickness of the string and loops may not be unduly large.
In some embodiments, the lasting string may cross over itself in the midfoot region. In some cases, the lasting string may cross over itself more than once in the midfoot region. The lasting string crossing over itself may be arranged due to diagonal threading of the lasting string across the midfoot region. That is, threading of the lasting string at an angle with respect to the medial-lateral direction, similar to lacing a traditional footwear vamp closure may produce overlapping portions of lasting string. Tightening a diagonal-threaded lasting string, and the consequent pulling on the ribbon loops, may draw the edges of the upper in a direction that is substantially perpendicular to the edge of the sole region at the location of each ribbon loop. Since the perimeter of a footwear sole is typically contoured, diagonal threading of lasting string may produce a more evenly distributed lasting draw than lasting string that is threaded directly across the sole in the medial-lateral direction.
As shown in
As also shown in
As shown in
In addition, once tightened, lasting string 1530 is secured to maintain the tension produced in lasting string 1530 during assembly of the shoe. For example, as shown in
As also shown in
During lasting, the peripheral portion of the upper is wrapped around a last and fixedly attached to a strobel and/or a sole structure. In order to draw the upper tightly around the last for fixed attachment to the strobel or sole structure, a lasting string may be threaded through the plurality of ribbon loops, and pulled tight. Once the lasting string is pulled tightly, the peripheral portion of the upper may be fixedly attached to a strobel or to a sole structure.
In some embodiments, the lasting string may be left in place such that it becomes part of the assembled shoe. In other embodiments, the shoe may be assembled in a manner such that the lasting string is removable. For example, in some embodiments, portions of the ribbon loops may be left unattached to the strobel or sole structure. Because the loops are unattached, the lasting string may also be unattached, and thus, may be removed (unthreaded) from the loops. Removing the lasting string, may save weight, provide for a smoother footbed for the article of footwear, and/or may better expose the strobel and/or upper for attachment of a sole structure.
Further, the lasting string may be removed during or after assembly in a different manner. For example, in some embodiments, the lasting string may be formed of a dissolvable material. By dipping the footwear assembly in a solution, the lasting string may be dissolved.
In some cases, one or more of the ribbon loops may be formed of end portions of the ribbon sections forming the ribbon structure of an upper. In such a configuration, the lasting loops may be formed without taking additional steps beyond those used to form the main body of the upper (aside from leaving a little extra length at the ends of the ribbon sections to form the loops extending from the peripheral edge of the upper). The properties of the ribbon sections used to form the ribbon structure include significant strength as these ribbon sections must support the foot as part of the upper. Accordingly, the strength of these ribbon sections may also be suitable for use in lasting loops.
As shown in
A heel section 1785 is also shown with ribbon loops, such as a first heel loop 1790 and a second heel loop 1796. First heel loop 1790 and second heel loop 1796 are not lasting loops. When upper 1702 is assembled, first heel edge 1703 and second heel edge 1704 are joined to one another. Thus, first heel loop 1790 and second heel loop 1796 do not extend off the bottom of upper 1702 and, therefore, cannot be used for string lasting. These loops are formed simply as a consequence of forming the pattern of ribbon sections to form the ribbon structure and are cut off prior to assembly of the shoe.
In some cases, the ribbon sections that overlap one another are fixedly attached to one another by embroidery stitching. In some embodiments, the ribbon structure may be formed on a substrate layer, such as a mesh layer. The mesh layer provides a lightweight, breathable layer to which the ribbon sections may be secured to maintain their arrangement with respect to one another while the footwear is being formed. The ribbon structure may be fixedly attached to the mesh layer using any suitable method. For example, the ribbon structure may be fixedly attached to the mesh layer using embroidery stitching, adhesive, thermal bonding, and/or other attachment methods.
As shown in
As shown in
As shown in
In some cases, however, a configuration like that shown in
The method further includes mounting the piece of upper material 1802 onto last 1805. The method also includes drawing peripheral edges 1821 of the piece of upper material 1802 toward one another at the bottom of last 1805 by performing a string lasting process.
The string lasting process includes threading a lasting string 1830 through a plurality of ribbon loops 1825 extending from the peripheral region of the piece of upper material 1802. In addition, the string lasting process further includes pulling lasting string 1830 to tighten the piece of upper material 1802 around last 1805. As shown by a first arrow 1840 and a second arrow 1845, lasting string 1830 may be pulled to tighten the upper on last 1805. This tightening is indicated by a series of arrows 1850 illustrating the inward pull imparted by lasting string 1830.
As shown in
Further, the string lasting process includes securing lasting string 1830 to maintain at least some of the tension produced in lasting string 1830. For example, as shown in
Once the upper has been firmly fitted and tightened on last 1805 using the string lasting process, the method includes securing a sole structure to the piece of upper material 1802. The sole structure may be fixedly attached to upper 1802 using any suitable method, such as adhesives, thermal bonding, stitching, or any other fixation method.
In some embodiments, forming the piece of upper material includes fixedly attaching the plurality of ribbon loops to the peripheral region of the upper. (See
In other embodiments, such as
In either configuration (i.e., separate or integral loops), the process of forming at least one of the plurality of ribbon loops may include folding a ribbon section such that the ribbon section has a first end, a second end, a first flat surface, and a second flat surface opposite the first flat surface and, at the first end of the ribbon loop, the second flat surface of the ribbon section faces the piece of upper material and, at the second end of the ribbon loop, the first flat surface of the ribbon section faces the piece of upper material.
During lasting, the peripheral portion of the upper is wrapped around a last and fixedly attached to a strobel and/or a sole structure. In order to draw the upper tightly around the last for fixed attachment to the strobel, a lasting string may be threaded through the plurality of ribbon loops, and pulled tight. Once the lasting string is pulled tightly, the peripheral portion of the upper may be fixedly attached to a strobel or to a sole structure, leaving the embroidered loops unattached to the strobel or sole structure. Because the loops are unattached, the lasting string may be removed (unthreaded) from the loops. Removing the lasting string, may save weight, provide for a smoother footbed for the article of footwear, and/or may better expose the strobel and/or upper for attachment of a sole structure.
As shown in
Upper bonding region 2115 may have a first width dimension 2120, which corresponds to a second width dimension 2130 of sole bonding region 2125. As shown in
In some embodiments, an article of footwear may include an upper that is formed, at least in part, from embroidered material, and has a plurality of embroidered loops at the peripheral edge of the embroidered material forming the upper. Such embodiments may also include ribbon sections incorporated into the embroidered upper material. Such ribbon sections may stop short of the peripheral edge of the upper. Accordingly, such ribbon sections may be part of the peripheral portion of the upper that is fixedly attached to the strobel, which provides strength, by anchoring the structural ribbon sections to the sole region of the article of footwear.
As also shown in
When peripheral portion 2230 of upper 2200 is fixedly attached to a strobel or sole structure, embroidered loops 2215 may remain unattached to the strobel and/or sole structure in order to permit removal of a lasting string used to draw the edges 2210 of peripheral portion 2230 of upper 2200 together for attachment to the strobel or sole structure. That is, only the band of peripheral portion 2230 illustrated by dimension 2240 (or a portion thereof) may be fixedly attached to the strobel or sole structure. Accordingly, embroidered loops 2215 may be left unattached, enabling the lasting string to be removed.
As also shown in
In order to assemble the article of footwear, the method may include mounting the piece of upper material onto a last 2405 and drawing the peripheral edges of the piece of upper material toward one another at the bottom of the last by performing a string lasting process. The string lasting process may include threading a lasting string 2410 through the plurality of embroidered loops 2215, and pulling lasting string 2410 to produce tension in lasting string 2410 and tighten the piece of upper material around the last.
The method may also include and fixedly attaching peripheral portion 2230 of the piece of upper material to a strobel or sole structure. When fixedly attaching peripheral portion 2230 to the strobel or sole structure, embroidered loops 2215 may remain unattached to the strobel or sole structure. Accordingly, once peripheral portion 2230 is fixedly attached to the strobel or sole structure, the method may include removing lasting string 2410. If a strobel is used, after the lasting string is removed, the upper may be attached to a sole structure.
Alternatively, the upper may be attached to a sole structure without using a strobel. In such assembly method, embroidered loops 2215 may also remain unattached to the sole structure after attaching the sole structure to the upper. Accordingly, lasting string 2410 may be removed after the sole structure is attached. For example, since no strobel is included, access to the lasting string may be provided from inside the assembled shoe, such that the lasting string may be removed via the ankle opening of the shoe. Accordingly, any of the embodiments disclosed herein may be assembled in a manner that permits removal of the lasting string during or after assembly of the article of footwear.
While various embodiments have been described, the description is intended to be exemplary, rather than limiting, and it will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art that many more embodiments and implementations are possible that are within the scope of the embodiments. Although many possible combinations of features are shown in the accompanying figures and discussed in this detailed description, many other combinations of the disclosed features are possible. Any feature of any embodiment may be used in combination with or substituted for any other feature or element in any other embodiment unless specifically restricted. Therefore, it will be understood that any of the features shown and/or discussed in the present disclosure may be implemented together in any suitable combination. Accordingly, the embodiments are not to be restricted except in light of the attached claims and their equivalents. Also, various modifications and changes may be made within the scope of the attached claims.
This application is a division of U.S. application Ser. No. 16/192,534, filed on Nov. 15, 2018 and entitled “Article with Ribbon Loops for String Lasting”, the disclosure of which application is entirely incorporated herein by reference.
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Number | Date | Country | |
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20210204633 A1 | Jul 2021 | US |
Number | Date | Country | |
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Parent | 16192534 | Nov 2018 | US |
Child | 17203257 | US |