Patent Application
20180140519
The present invention relates to an assembly for making up a keratin material, in particular the nails, the lips, the eyelids, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the contour of the eyes, comprising a first particular composition applied to the keratin material and a second particular composition, different from the first composition, applied successively onto said first composition. The present invention also relates to a process for making up such a keratin material.
Consumers are seeking, in makeup products, radically innovative products that are capable of surprising them.
To satisfy their need, the cosmetic industries launch makeup products with broadened colour ranges, or combine these products with application devices, some of which are intended to create novel effects or novel textures.
However, these makeup products may have a high cost, may have optical or sensory effects that do not find unanimous approval among consumers, or alternatively may create these effects at the expense of the cosmetic properties usually sought in makeup products such as the staying power, the comfort or the amount of product deposited.
Makeup products are generally applied by the user applying several coats so as to arrive at an amount of product deposited judged as being satisfactory. In certain makeup applications, certain makeup products recommend the application of a first composition to the keratin material, more commonly known as the base coat, and the successive application of a second composition onto said first composition, more commonly known as the top coat.
The base coat may have several functions.
This base coat may be a coat of coloured composition protected with a transparent and colourless top coat. In such a case, the top coat is generally intended to protect said base coat from degrading over time (scratching, flaking or chipping) or is intended to improve its staying power over time. Such a top coat thus forms a shield for the base coat with regard to the users' everyday conditions, in particular water, detergent products, soaps or climatic conditions that are liable to affect the integrity of the makeup products applied to the keratin materials.
This base coat may also form a transparent and colourless substrate intended to facilitate the attachment of an opaque and coloured top coat, especially to smooth keratin materials, such as the nails. Moreover, such a configuration can, here also, give rise to the application of a second transparent and colourless top coat intended to protect the opaque and coloured top coat.
One aim of the invention is thus to propose an assembly and a process for making up keratin materials that are capable of creating surprising optical effects, in particular a depth effect.
One aim of the invention is thus to propose an assembly and a process for making up keratin materials that are capable of creating optical effects that are available in several makeup uses, such as for making up the nails, the lips, and skin such as the eyelids or the contour of the eyes.
One aim of the invention is also to propose a customizable assembly and process for making up keratin materials, offering a wide choice of colours.
One aim of the invention is also to propose an applicable assembly and process for making up keratin materials that make it possible to adapt existing formulations, that are readily industrializable, and readily usable, with an easily reproducible optical effect.
One subject of the present invention is thus, according to a first aspect that satisfies at least one of the abovementioned problems, an assembly for making up a keratin material, in particular the nails, the lips, the eyelids, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the contour of the eyes, comprising at least:
a first composition intended to be applied to the keratin material, the first composition being a composition that is capable of forming a reflective coat, and
After application of the first composition in the form of a base coat in contact with the keratin material, for example the nails, and then of the second composition in the form of a coat covering the base coat, the user may observe that, by looking at the deposit made, the covering coat makes it possible to create a depth effect of said base coat.
With the present invention, it is possible to apply a plurality of covering coats for darkening the shade while at the same time being very saturated (intense colour), making it possible to obtain a “deep” shade (possibility of dark coloration while at the same time remaining translucent, allowing the base coat to show through). Furthermore, the present invention makes it possible to modify the lightness and saturation of the shade obtained with the second composition applied by varying the number of coats deposited. A depth effect is obtained, thus resulting from high chromaticity (strong shade) combined, on the one hand, with a reduction in lightness (as a function of the number of covering coats deposited), and, on the other hand, with a certain translucency of this (these) covering coats, to perceive the light reflected by the base coat. The translucency of the covering coat allows light to be reflected onto the base coat, making it possible to amplify the chromaticity of the covering coat (intensity of the colour).
In the patent application EP1745770, we know an assembly for make-up comprising a first composition, containing a resin selected from colophane and derivatives thereof, hydrocarbon-based resins and their mixtures, the said resin having a molecular weight in number inferior or equal to 10000 g/mol and a second composition containing at least one non volatile fatty substance. Example 1 describes an assembly for making-up of the lips comprising a red lip make-up composition and a non colored second gloss composition.
In the patent application FR2932981, we also know a make-up assembly of two compositions whererin the first composition comprises a colouring agent and the second composition comprises a non polymerized or non polymerisable liquid crystal. The patent application FR2908637 describes a make-up assembly of two compositions wherein the first composition contains a multilayer interference pigment and presents a coverage of at least 30, the amount of multilayer interference pigment leading the composition to a colour change ΔE of at least 2 between the colour in the mass and the colour after application.
No one of those make-up assemblies allows to obtain those optical and coloring properties.
According to particular embodiments satisfying at least one of the abovementioned technical problems, the makeup assembly according to the invention has the following technical characteristics:
Measurement of the Contrast Ratio (CR)
The application may be performed with an automatic spreader.
The contrast ratio of the first and second compositions is evaluated by preparing a 300 μm film on a contrast card (such as a Byk Chart PA-2814) having a white part and a black part, using an automatic spreader.
The film is left to dry for 24 hours on a thermostatic bed at 30° C. and a measurement on the white background is then taken.
Colour measurements were taken using a Datacolor 600 spectrocolorimeter. The colorimeter gives numerical data representing the absolute value and the colour difference between a reference sample and a sample to be controlled. In our study, we use the absolute values of each film sample on the white background for the colour, integrating the black background for the calculation of the contrast ratio.
The operating conditions are as follows:
The apparatus is equipped with an optical device that produces scattered light, placed in a spherical cavity lined with a white coat, which induces multiple reflection of the light. An anti-glare trap can remove the glare effects from the surface of the sample.
The spectra are expressed as colorimetric coordinates in the Commission Internationale de l'Eclairage CIELab76 space according to recommendation 15:2004.
The contrast ratio is calculated by taking the arithmetic mean of the Y values on the black background, divided by the mean value of Y on the white background, multiplied by 100.
The luminance obtained with said first and second compositions is evaluated visually on the white background of a Byk Chart PA-2814 contrast card and read using a Datacolor 600 spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, SCI values) for the L* colorimetric measurements. In an L* a* b* system, the lower the value of L*, the darker the colour.
The chromaticity of the first and second compositions in the CIE L*, a*, b* system is calculated according to the following equation:
C*=√{square root over (a*2+b*2)}
The higher the value of C*, the more saturated the coloration obtained.
A subject of the present invention is also, according to a second aspect satisfying at least one of the abovementioned problems, a process for making up a keratin material, in particular the nails, the lips, the eyelids, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the contour of the eyes, using a makeup assembly as defined previously, comprising, preferably consisting of:
According to particular embodiments satisfying at least one of the abovementioned technical problems, the makeup process according to the invention involves the following steps:
Needless to say, the particular characteristics defining the first and second compositions are also valid for this makeup process.
Makeup Assembly
A makeup assembly according to the invention comprises:
Such an assembly is intended for making up a keratin material, in particular the nails, the lips, skin such as the eyelids or the contour of the eyes, or the eyelashes or the eyebrows, preferably the nails, the lips and the skin, more preferentially the nails.
The invention may thus also be in the form of a packaging and makeup device comprising:
i) a first container comprising an applicator suitable for applying said first composition to the keratin material,
ii) a second container comprising an applicator suitable for applying said first composition to the keratin material.
This first composition and this second composition may be packaged in a unit or non-unit device.
The unit device may be, for example, in the form of a tube. This unit device may comprise, for example, the first and second containers integrally attached via suitable fixing means by means of a connecting piece.
When the device is a non-unit device, the containers are in separate form and may be sold, for example, by being contained in the same packing or separately with explicit recommendations for the respective use of the first and second containers.
First Composition
The first composition is preferably intended to be applied directly to the keratin material, in direct contact with the keratin material.
The keratin material is preferably chosen from the group consisting of the nails, the lips, skin such as the eyelids or the contour of the eyes, the eyelashes and the eyebrows, preferably the nails, the lips and the skin, more preferentially the nails.
This first composition is preferably intended to form a base coat for the second composition.
According to the invention, this first composition is capable of forming a reflective coat after application to said keratin material.
The term “reflective coat” means that the first composition has:
Preferably, a first composition according to the invention has a white, pink, metallic, in particular silvery or golden, or pastel colour result.
This first composition comprises at least one reflective metal particle.
Reflective Metal Particles
The term “reflective particles” denotes particles whose size, structure, especially the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are constituted and their physical and chemical natures, and the surface appearance, enable them to reflect incident light with a sufficient intensity to be able to create at the surface of the composition claimed, when the latter is applied to the support to be made up, points of brightness that are visible to the naked eye, i.e. more luminous points that contrast with their surroundings by appearing to shine.
The reflective particles may disrupt the visual perception of the curvature of the made-up support, by tending to prevent lasting visual focusing, the points of brightness being liable to appear or disappear at random when the made-up support and the observer are moving.
The reflective particles used must be compatible with cosmetic use and must be able to remain in the composition, and especially to not dissolve, or in any case to not dissolve entirely, therein.
The reflective particles advantageously have a size that is compatible with the manifestation of specular reflection of visible light (400-700 nm), of sufficient intensity to create a point of brightness. This size is liable to vary according to the chemical nature of the particles, their shape and their power for specular reflection of visible light.
The term “metal” means comprising, or consisting of, at least one metal, a metal alloy or a metal (poly)oxide.
The reflective metal particles present in this first composition are preferably chosen from:
A first composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a total content of reflective metal particles ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, more precisely from 3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
A/ Pure or Composite, Optionally Oxidized Metal Particles
A first composition according to the invention may comprise, as reflective metal particles, pure or composite, optionally oxidized metal particles.
Such particles may be chosen, for example, from aluminium alone or in composite form (Cosmicolor®), bismuth oxychloride, bronze, silver, gold and titanium oxide, and a mixture thereof.
A first composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of such particles ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, more precisely from 3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
B/ Multilayer Interference Pigments
A first composition according to the invention may comprise, as reflective metal particles, one or more multilayer interference pigments.
The term “multilayer interference pigment” denotes a pigment that is capable of producing a colour via an interference phenomenon between light rays reflected by a plurality of superposed layers of different refractive indices, especially a succession of layers of high and low refractive indices.
All multilayer interference pigments may be envisaged.
The colour produced by the multilayer interference pigment may be any optionally having, for example, a dominant wavelength of between 580 and 650 nm.
The composition may comprise a single multilayer interference pigment or several multilayer interference pigments having different dominant wavelengths.
The multilayer interference pigment may comprise a substrate (also known as a core or nucleus) covered on at least one face with one or more layers of materials and thicknesses chosen such that a colour is produced by interference.
Layers of the interference pigment may or may not surround the substrate, which may or may not have a flattened shape.
The substrate may comprise natural mica, synthetic mica, glass, alumina, silica, or any metal, alloy or metal oxide. The nature of the substrate may be chosen as a function of the desired gloss. For example, for a very glossy result, a glass or metal substrate may be preferred.
The interference pigment may comprise more than four layers of different refractive indices.
The size of the multilayer interference pigment particles, given by the mean granulometry at half the population, also known as D50, ranges, for example, from 1 μm to 2000 μm and better still from 5 μm to 2000 μm.
The contrast ratio of the composition may be essentially due to the content of multilayer interference pigment.
The multilayer interference pigments may be chosen from nacres and goniochromatic pigments, and a mixture thereof.
A first composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a total content of multilayer interference pigments ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, more precisely from 3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
a) Nacres
A first composition according to the invention may comprise one or more nacres.
The term “nacre” should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluses in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated especially with an organic dye, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
These particles may be chosen from particles containing a natural or synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, chosen, for example, from titanium oxides, especially TiO2, iron oxides, especially Fe2O3, tin oxides, chromium oxides, barium sulfate and the following materials: MgF2, CrF3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO2, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, SeO3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, MoS2, and mixtures or alloys thereof.
Examples of such particles that may be mentioned include particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or glass particles coated either with brown iron oxide, with titanium oxide, with tin oxide or with a mixture thereof, for instance the products sold under the brand name Reflecks® by the company Engelhard.
The nacres may have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery tint.
Non-limiting examples of nacres that may be mentioned in particular, alone or as a mixture, include nacres comprising the following elements:
Thus, according to one advantageous embodiment, the reflective metal particles in accordance with the invention comprise at least one element chosen from the following CI (Color Index) numbers: 77000, 77002, 77004, 77019, 77120, 77163, 77220, 77231, 77400, 77480, 77711, 77718, 77820, 77891, 77947, and a mixture thereof, it being understood that the reflective metal particles comprise at least one metal element optionally in (poly)oxide form.
Preferably, a composition in accordance with the invention comprises nacres of white or silvery colour.
A first composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a total content of nacre(s) ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, more precisely from 3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
b) Goniochromatic pigments
A first composition according to the invention may comprise one or more goniochromatic pigments.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “goniochromatic pigment” denotes a pigment which makes it possible to obtain, when the composition is spread onto a support, a colour trajectory in the a*b* plane of the CIE 1976 colorimetric space that corresponds to a variation Dh ° in the hue angle h ° of at least 20° C. when the angle of observation relative to the normal is varied between 0° and 80°, for an incident light angle of 45°.
The colour trajectory may be measured, for example, using an Instrument Systems brand spectrogonioreflectometer of reference GON 360 Goniometer, after the composition has been spread in fluid form to a thickness of 300 μm using an automatic spreader onto an Erichsen brand contrast card of reference Typ 24/5, the measurement being taken on the black background of the card.
The goniochromatic pigment may be chosen, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colouring agents.
In the case of a multilayer structure, it may comprise, for example, at least two layers, each layer being made, for example, from at least one material chosen from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pt, Va, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, S2O3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, TiO2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, and alloys, polymers and combinations thereof.
The multilayer structure may or may not have, relative to a central layer, symmetry in the chemical nature of the stacked layers.
Different effects are obtained depending on the thickness and the nature of the various layers.
Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures are, for example, the following structures: Fe2O3/SiO2/Fe2O3/SiO2/Fe2O3, a pigment having this structure being sold under the name Sicopearl by the company BASF; MoS2/SiO2/mica-oxide/SiO2/MoS2; Fe2O3/SiO2/mica-oxide/SiO2/Fe2O3; TiO2/SiO2/TiO2 and TiO2/Al2O3/TiO2, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Xirona by the company Merck (Darmstadt).
The liquid-crystal colouring agents comprise, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which are grafted mesomorphic groups. Examples of liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles that may be used include, for example, those sold by the company Chenix and also the products sold under the name Helicone® HC by the company Wacker.
Goniochromatic pigments that may also be used include certain nacres, pigments with effects on a synthetic substrate, especially a substrate such as alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide or aluminium, or interference flakes obtained from a polyterephthalate film.
Non-limiting examples of goniochromatic pigments that may be mentioned in particular, alone or as a mixture, include the following goniochromatic pigments:
A first composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a total content of goniochromatic pigments ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, more precisely from 3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
These reflective metal particles and in particular these multilayer interference pigments may optionally comprise or be covered with optical brighteners.
Brighteners are white organic fluorescent substances.
Optical brighteners are compounds well known to a person skilled in the art. Such compounds are described in “Fluorescent Whitening Agent, Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer”, vol. 11, pp. 227-241, 4th Edition, 1994, Wiley. Their use in cosmetics in particular exploits the fact that they consist of chemical compounds having fluorescence properties, which absorb in the ultraviolet region (maximum absorption at a wavelength of less than 400 nm) and re-emit energy by fluorescence for a wavelength of between 380 nm and 830 nm.
They may be defined more particularly as compounds that absorb essentially in the UVA region between 300 and 390 nm and re-emit essentially between 400 and 525 nm.
Their lightening effect resides more particularly in an emission of energy of between 400 and 480 nm, which corresponds to an emission in the blue part of the visible region, which contributes to lightening the skin visually when this emission takes place on the skin.
Optical brighteners that are especially known include stilbene derivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbenes and triazinylstilbenes, coumarin derivatives, in particular hydroxycoumarins and aminocoumarins, oxazole, benzoxazole, imidazole, triazole and pyrazoline derivatives, pyrene derivatives, porphyrin derivatives and mixtures thereof.
They include in particular the following derivatives:
The optical brighteners that can be used in the present invention may also be in the form of copolymers, for example of acrylates and/or methacrylates, grafted with optical brightener groups as described in application FR 99/10942.
These reflective metal particles may be formulated in the first composition with:
Volatile Solvents
The first composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile solvent, which is preferably organic.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile solvent” means a solvent that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent(s) of the invention are solvents that are liquid at room temperature and that have a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10−3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
The volatile solvent of the composition is preferably chosen from the group consisting of C2-C5 alcohols, C5-C12 alkanes, and C3-C6 esters and ketones, and mixtures thereof.
The term “C2-C5 alcohol” means an organic compound comprising at least one hydroxyl group —OH, preferably exactly one hydroxyl group —OH, and from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and which is moreover liquid at room temperature, i.e. from 15° C. to 30° C. The C2-C5 alcohols that are suited to the invention especially include ethanol and isopropanol.
The term “C5-C12 alkane” means a saturated, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic hydrocarbon-based compound, consisting exclusively of carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is moreover liquid at room temperature, i.e. from 15° C. to 30° C. In the context of the present invention, the alkanes preferably comprise from 5 to 12, preferentially from 5 to 10 and advantageously from 5 to 8 carbon atoms. The C5-C12 alkanes that are suited to the invention especially include heptane and isomers thereof, decane and isomers thereof, cyclohexane and dodecane and isomers thereof.
C3-C6 esters and ketones that may especially be mentioned include acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, cyclohexanone and alkyl acetates in which the alkyl group comprises from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-propyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, isobutyl acetate and tert-butyl acetate.
According to a particular embodiment, the first composition comprises a total content of volatile solvent(s) of between 20% and 80% by weight, especially between 30% and 75% by weight and in particular between 40% and 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
Film-Forming Polymers
The first composition according to the invention may comprise at least one film-forming polymer, which is preferably soluble in the volatile solvent(s).
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “film-forming polymer” denotes a polymer that is capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming an isolable and especially continuous and adherent film, on a support, especially on the nails.
A single film-forming polymer or a mixture of film-forming polymers may be used in the composition.
This film-forming polymer may be chosen from the group made up of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, and polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
A film-forming polymer that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen in particular from:
The term “polysaccharide ester or alkyl ether” denotes a polysaccharide made up of repeat units comprising at least two identical or different rings and having a degree of substitution per saccharide unit of between 1.9 and 3, preferably between 2.2 and 2.9 and more particularly between 2.4 and 2.8. The term “substitution” denotes the functionalization of the hydroxyl groups to give ester and/or alkyl ether functions, and/or the functionalization of the carboxylic groups to give ester functions.
In other words, it may be a polysaccharide, partially or totally substituted with ester and/or alkyl ether groups. Preferably, the hydroxyl groups may be substituted with ester and/or alkyl ether functions of C2-C4.
Mention may in particular be made of cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetate, cellulose acetobutyrates or cellulose acetopropionates; cellulose alkyl ethers, for instance ethylcelluloses, and ethyl guars;
Film-forming polymers that may especially be used include the toluenesulfonamide-formaldehyde resins Ketjenflex MS80 from the company Akzo or Santolite MHP and Santolite MS 80 from the company Faconnier or Resimpol 80 from the company Pan Americana, the alkyd resin Beckosol ODE 230-70-E from the company Dainippon, the acrylic resin Acryloid B66 from the company Röhm & Haas, the polyurethane resin Trixene PR 4127 from the company Baxenden, and the acetophenone/formaldehyde resin sold under the reference Synthetic Resin SK by Degussa.
According to a particular embodiment, the film-forming polymer is chosen from polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives, preferably from polysaccharide ethers and esters, especially of C2-C4, and is more preferentially chosen from cellulose acetobutyrates, cellulose acetopropionates, cellulose acetate, ethylcelluloses, ethyl guars, nitrocellulose, epoxy/tosylamide resins and acrylic polymers, and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, the first composition comprises a total content of film-forming polymer(s) of between 1% and 50% by weight, especially between 5% and 40% by weight and in particular between 10% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
Plasticizers
The first composition according to the invention may comprise at least one plasticizer.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “plasticizer” denotes a compound, in more or less viscous liquid form, which, when added to a formulation of a given material, such as a polymer, enables said material to be rendered more tacky, more adherent, more flexible, more resistant and/or easier to handle.
Plasticizers that may especially be mentioned include the usual plasticizers, such as glycols and derivatives thereof, such as diethylene glycol ethyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether or else diethylene glycol hexyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethylene glycol methyl ether, ethylene glycol butyl ether or ethylene glycol hexyl ether; glycol esters; propylene glycol derivatives and in particular propylene glycol phenyl ether, propylene glycol diacetate, dipropylene glycol butyl ether, tripropylene glycol butyl ether, propylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, tripropylene glycol methyl ether and diethylene glycol methyl ether or propylene glycol butyl ether; acid esters, especially carboxylic acid esters, such as citrates, especially triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, triethyl acetylcitrate, tributyl acetylcitrate or 2-triethylhexyl acetylcitrate; phthalates, in particular dimethoxyethyl phthalate; phosphates, in particular tricresyl phosphate, tributyl phosphate, triphenyl phosphate or tributoxyethyl phosphate; tartrates, especially dibutyl tartrate; adipates; carbonates; sebacates; benzyl benzoate, butyl acetylricinoleate, glyceryl acetylricinoleate, butyl glyco late, camphor, glyceryl triacetate or N-ethyl-o,p-toluenesulfonamide; oxyethylenated derivatives such as oxyethylenated oils, in particular vegetable oils, such as castor oil, and more generally non-volatile oils, in particular non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the content of plasticizer(s) is from 1% to 15% and preferably from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
Thixotropic Agents
The first composition according to the invention may comprise at least one thixotropic agent.
Preferably, this (these) agent(s) are chosen from Bentone 27G (stearalkonium hectorite from Elementis) and silica (Aerosil 200 sold by Evonik Degussa).
Preferably, the content of thixotropic agent(s) is from 0.1% to 5% and preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
Needless to say, other compounds may be present in the first composition, provided that these compounds do not disrupt the reflective nature of the first composition applied.
Second Composition
The second composition is intended to be applied directly onto the first composition placed in contact beforehand with the keratin material in the form of one or more coats.
This second composition is preferably intended to form a covering coat, more commonly referred to as a top coat, intended to cover the base coat(s) applied previously.
This second composition is, according to the invention, capable of forming, after application to said keratin material, a coloured translucent coat.
The term “coloured translucent coat” means that the second composition has:
These optical values are obtained with a coat of second composition of thickness defined previously. However, it should be noted that these results are advantageously also observed after applying two coats of second composition (600 μm). Thus, preferably, even after reapplying a second coat of second composition onto the first coat, the second composition maintains its coloured translucent nature. Application of this second coat makes it possible, surprisingly, to give a depth effect to the first coat applied previously to the nail.
A second composition according to the invention has, for example, and without being limiting, a colour result of orange, fuchsia, violet, yellow, blue, green, pink, etc. colour.
The dyestuff(s) present in this second composition are preferably chosen from:
A second composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a total content of dyestuff(s) ranging from 0.12% to 0.55% (for RAL silicone: 2.45% of organic pigment) (see p.4).
Coloured Organic Pigments
A second composition according to the invention may comprise one or more coloured organic pigments.
The term “coloured organic pigments” should be understood as meaning coloured, organic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the physiological medium, and which are intended to colour the composition.
The organic pigments may be chosen, for example, from the materials below, and mixtures thereof:
The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic dyestuffs mentioned previously are mentioned in the publication International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 1997 edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association, the content of which is incorporated into the present patent application by reference.
A second composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of pigments ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.10% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
Coloured Fluorescent Agents
The dyestuff(s) present in the second composition may be chosen from coloured (other than white) fluorescent agents.
Fluorescent agents are well known to those skilled in the art. They may be pigments or dyes. The term “pigments” is understood to mean inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in the composition. The term “dye” is understood to mean chemical compounds dissolved in the composition. The dyes may be water-soluble or fat-soluble. Fluorescent substances are, for example, described in “Luminescent materials (fluorescent daylight)”, Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer, vol. 14, pp. 546-569, 3rd edition, 1981, Wiley.
For the purposes of the present invention, a fluorescent agent is a substance which, under the effect of ultraviolet rays and/or of visible light, re-emits in the visible range the portion of light which it has absorbed under the same colour as that which it reflects naturally. The naturally reflected colour is thus reinforced by the re-emitted colour and appears extremely bright.
As fluorescent agent, use may be made of inorganic fluorescent substances such as those described in application JP 05-117127 and, in particular, inorganic fluorescent substances based on zinc oxide.
Fluorescent agents that may also be used include organic fluorescent substances such as daylight-fluorescent pigments; these pigments are generally manufactured from fluorescent dyes, which are dissolved beforehand in a support resin to give a solid solution, which is subsequently ground to a powder of resin particles having fluorescent properties. The preparation of such fluorescent pigments is described in EP 0 370 470, U.S. Pat. No. 2,851,424, U.S. Pat. No. 3,711,604, U.S. Pat. No. 3,856,550 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,938,878.
Fluorescent pigments particularly suitable for the present invention may thus be chosen from coloured polyamide and/or formaldehyde/benzoguanamine and/or melamine/formaldehyde/sulfonamide resins, from coloured aminotriazine/formaldehyde/sulfonamide co-condensates and/or from metallized polyester flakes and/or mixtures thereof. These fluorescent pigments may also be present in the form of aqueous dispersions of fluorescent pigments.
As fluorescent pigments particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of the pink-coloured fluorescent aminotriazine/formaldehyde/sulfonamide co-condensate with a mean particle size of 3-4 microns sold under the trade name Fiesta Astral Pink FEX-1 and the blue-coloured fluorescent aminotriazine/formaldehyde/sulfonamide co-condensate with a mean particle size of 3-4.5 microns sold under the trade name Fiesta Comet Blue FTX-60 by the company Swada, or alternatively the yellow-coloured benzoguanamine/formaldehyde resin covered with formaldehyde/urea resin sold under the trade name FB-205 Yellow and the red-coloured benzoguanamine/formaldehyde resin covered with formaldehyde/urea resin sold under the trade name FB-400 Orange Red by the company UK Seung Chemical, and the orange-coloured polyamide resin sold under the trade name Flare 911 Orange 4 by the company Sterling Industrial Colors.
A second composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of fluorescent agents ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.10% to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
The second composition thus preferably has a dyestuff chosen from the group consisting of coloured organic pigments, or lakes, certain coloured mineral pigments (such as CI77510, CI77007), coloured hybrid pigments, coloured fluorescent agents, and a mixture thereof, preferably from the group consisting of coloured organic pigments, and coloured fluorescent agents, and a mixture thereof, preferably from the group consisting of coloured organic pigments.
These dyestuffs of the second composition may be formulated with:
Volatile Solvents
The second composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile solvent, which is preferably organic.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile solvent” means a solvent that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent(s) of the invention are solvents that are liquid at room temperature and that have a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10−3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
The volatile solvent of the composition is preferably chosen from the group consisting of C2-C5 alcohols, C5-C12 alkanes, and C3-C6 esters and ketones, and mixtures thereof.
The term “C2-C5 alcohol” means an organic compound comprising at least one hydroxyl group —OH, preferably exactly one hydroxyl group —OH, and from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and which is moreover liquid at room temperature, i.e. from 15° C. to 30° C. The C2-C5 alcohols that are suited to the invention especially include ethanol and isopropanol.
The term “C5-C12 alkane” means a saturated, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic hydrocarbon-based compound, consisting exclusively of carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is moreover liquid at room temperature, i.e. from 15° C. to 30° C. In the context of the present invention, the alkanes preferably comprise from 5 to 12, preferentially from 5 to 10 and advantageously from 5 to 8 carbon atoms. The C5-C12 alkanes that are suited to the invention especially include heptane and isomers thereof, decane and isomers thereof, cyclohexane and dodecane and isomers thereof.
C3-C6 esters and ketones that may especially be mentioned include acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, cyclohexanone and alkyl acetates in which the alkyl group comprises from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-propyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, isobutyl acetate and tert-butyl acetate.
According to a particular embodiment, the second composition comprises a total content of volatile solvent(s) of between 20% and 80% by weight, especially between 30% and 75% by weight and in particular between 40% and 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
Film-Forming Polymers
The second composition according to the invention may comprise at least one film-forming polymer.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “film-forming polymer” denotes a polymer that is capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming an isolable and especially continuous and adherent film, on a support, especially on the nails.
A single film-forming polymer or a mixture of film-forming polymers may be used in the composition.
This film-forming polymer may be chosen from the group made up of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, and polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
A film-forming polymer that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen in particular from:
The term “polysaccharide ester or alkyl ether” denotes a polysaccharide made up of repeat units comprising at least two identical or different rings and having a degree of substitution per saccharide unit of between 1.9 and 3, preferably between 2.2 and 2.9 and more particularly between 2.4 and 2.8. The term “substitution” denotes the functionalization of the hydroxyl groups to give ester and/or alkyl ether functions, and/or the functionalization of the carboxylic groups to give ester functions.
In other words, it may be a polysaccharide, partially or totally substituted with ester and/or alkyl ether groups. Preferably, the hydroxyl groups may be substituted with ester and/or alkyl ether functions of C2-C4.
Mention may in particular be made of cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetate, cellulose acetobutyrates or cellulose acetopropionates; cellulose alkyl ethers, for instance ethylcelluloses, and ethyl guars;
Film-forming polymers that may especially be used include the toluenesulfonamide-formaldehyde resins Ketjenflex MS80 from the company Akzo or Santolite MHP and Santolite MS 80 from the company Faconnier or Resimpol 80 from the company Pan Americana, the alkyd resin Beckosol ODE 230-70-E from the company Dainippon, the acrylic resin Acryloid B66 from the company Röhm & Haas, the polyurethane resin Trixene PR 4127 from the company Baxenden, and the acetophenone/formaldehyde resin sold under the reference Synthetic Resin SK by Degussa.
According to a particular embodiment, the film-forming polymer is chosen from polysaccharides and polysaccharide derivatives, preferably from polysaccharide ethers and esters, especially of C2-C4, and is more preferentially chosen from cellulose acetobutyrates, cellulose acetopropionates, cellulose acetate, ethylcelluloses, ethyl guars, nitrocellulose, epoxy/tosylamide resins and acrylic polymers, and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, the second composition comprises a total content of film-forming polymer(s) of between 1% and 50% by weight, especially between 5% and 40% by weight and in particular between 10% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
Plasticizers
The second composition according to the invention may comprise at least one plasticizer.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “plasticizer” denotes a compound, in more or less viscous liquid form, which, when added to a formulation of a given material, enables said material to be rendered more tacky, more adherent, more flexible, more resistant and/or easier to handle.
Plasticizers that may especially be mentioned include the usual plasticizers, such as glycols and derivatives thereof, such as diethylene glycol ethyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether or else diethylene glycol hexyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethylene glycol methyl ether, ethylene glycol butyl ether or ethylene glycol hexyl ether; glycol esters; propylene glycol derivatives and in particular propylene glycol phenyl ether, propylene glycol diacetate, dipropylene glycol butyl ether, tripropylene glycol butyl ether, propylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, tripropylene glycol methyl ether and diethylene glycol methyl ether or propylene glycol butyl ether; acid esters, especially carboxylic acid esters, such as citrates, especially triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, triethyl acetylcitrate, tributyl acetylcitrate or 2-triethylhexyl acetylcitrate; phthalates, in particular dimethoxyethyl phthalate; phosphates, in particular tricresyl phosphate, tributyl phosphate, triphenyl phosphate or tributoxyethyl phosphate; tartrates, especially dibutyl tartrate; adipates; carbonates; sebacates; benzyl benzoate, butyl acetylricinoleate, glyceryl acetylricinoleate, butyl glyco late, camphor, glyceryl triacetate or N-ethyl-o,p-toluenesulfonamide; oxyethylenated derivatives such as oxyethylenated oils, in particular vegetable oils, such as castor oil, and more generally non-volatile oils, in particular non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the content of plasticizer(s) is from 1% to 15% and preferably from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.
Needless to say, other compounds may be present in the second composition, provided that these compounds do not disrupt the translucent and coloured nature of the second composition applied.
Several examples of first composition (base coat) and of second composition (coat covering the base coat) in accordance with the invention were prepared and compared with compositions outside the invention, especially with regard to:
Examples and Results
Several examples of preparation of first composition (known as the base coat) and of second composition (known as the top coat or covering coat) in accordance with the invention, for obtaining a depth effect of the base coat after application of one or two covering coats onto the base coat, were performed.
Examples of Nail Varnishes
Examples of first composition and counter-example
Preparation Process
A coloured nail varnish is prepared by mixing, at 25° C. with suitable stirring, a film-forming fluid base (nitrocellulose) and the plasticizer (tributyl citrate) in the solvent medium (ethyl acetate); where appropriate concerning the pigments, they are optimally preground, unlike the other dyestuffs such as the nacres directly added to the base in the presence of the thixotropic agent (Bentone).
Optical Result
The first compositions 1, 2 and 3 according to the invention constitute a reflective base, unlike the comparative composition outside the invention, which is insufficiently luminous and is too coloured.
Examples of Second Composition and Counter-Example
The process for preparing the second compositions is the same as that described with reference to the first compositions.
Optical Result
The second compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention constitute a translucent and coloured covering, unlike the comparative composition outside the invention, which is opaque.
Other examples of second compositions in accordance with the invention were prepared and allowed the Applicant to place the optimum optical result limits:
Optical Result
Result of the Successive Application of the Base Coat to the Nail Followed by the Covering Coat onto the Base Coat
When a coat of first composition according to the invention, or base coat, such as the first composition 1, is applied to a nail, and a coat of second composition, or covering coat, such as the second composition 2, is then applied onto the base coat, the translucent and coloured nature of the covering coat applied onto this reflective base coat makes it possible to observe a surprising and unexpected depth effect of said base coat. Generally, only one base coat is applied, but one or two covering coats may be applied onto said base coat so as to vary this depth effect.
In contrast, by applying a first comparative composition outside the invention and then a second composition according to the invention, such a depth effect is not obtained. Similarly, by applying a first composition 1 according to the invention and then a second comparative composition outside the invention, such a depth effect is not obtained.
To illustrate now a modification of the lightness of the colour of the assembly obtained while at the same time allowing an intense colour to be obtained, a base coat according to the invention of first composition 2 according to the invention was applied, followed, respectively, by one and two covering coats of second composition 1 according to the invention, and a reduction in luminance may then be observed while at the same time maintaining high chromaticity.
Optical Result
Nail varnishes are not the only fields of application of the present invention: this invention is thus transposable to other technical fields, such as lip products, such as lipsticks, or eye products, such as liners.
Examples of Lip Products
Examples of First Composition
Example of preparation of a white base for the preparation of a first composition in accordance with the invention:
To accentuate the contrast ratio of this white base, several examples of reflective metal particles, optionally in combination with pigments, were added to make a first covering composition according to the invention:
Preparation Process:
The nacres are first added to the white base beforehand. Next, the pigments are ground in a three-roll mill and added to this nacreous white base.
Second Composition
A second composition in accordance with the invention was prepared as follows:
The pigments were preground and the ingredients were mixed at 80° C., and the mixture then cast in stick form.
Optical Results
When a first composition according to the invention was applied to the lips, and then, once the first composition was dry, a second composition was applied onto said first composition, a depth effect was observed.
Needless to say, these examples are not limiting: other examples using other starting materials may be used for these examples of varnishes and lipsticks. Similarly, other applications may be imagined, such as a mascara application.
Examples of Eye Products (Liners, Mascara)
A first composition for forming a base coat and a second composition for forming a coat covering the base coat may be formulated as follows, for illustrative purposes.
First Composition
This first composition may be prepared via a conventional preparation process, but it will preferably be advisable not to grind the bismuth oxychloride.
Second Composition
This second composition may be prepared via a conventional preparation process, but it will preferably be advisable to grind the organic pigment used with a three-roll mill.
It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed as weight of solids of the compound in question.
Throughout the application, the term “comprises one” or “includes one” should be understood as meaning “comprising at least one” or “including at least one”, unless otherwise specified.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1455689 | Jun 2014 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2015/061417 | 5/22/2015 | WO | 00 |
