The present invention relates to a brassiere having a soft/hard underwire assembly with a dual (i.e. soft/hard) character.
The use of an underwire as part of a brassiere frame has become common. The underwire, of metal, plastic-coated metal or plastic generally is received in a tubular pocket below each cup and lies along the sternum of the wearer substantially at the junction of the breast with the chest wall. Each cup is provided with such an underwire which maintains the configuration of the cup and contributes the support of the breast.
In the past, problems have been encountered with such underwires. For example some underwire designs tended to poke through the fabric or to shift in the fabric pocket which was provided.
The pull on the underwire when the brassiere is fastened, because of the tension applied around the back of the wearer, tended to spread the underwire which generally had a U or C shape.
Frequently the stiffness of the underwire rendered the brassiere uncomfortable and often the lack of ability of the underwire to deform out of its plane caused discomfort as well. When efforts were made in the past to make the underwire more flexible, it tended to lose its stabilizing function.
Furthermore, techniques for inserting the underwire, anchoring the underwire or generally assembling an underwire to the cup and other structures of the brassiere made fabrication complex and expensive. In particular, the tension on the underwire when the brassiere was tightened around the back of the wearer could not be counteracted in the past except by making the wiring so stiff that its breast-shaping and supporting function was defeated.
An effort to overcome at least some of these disadvantages is found in U.S. Pat. No. 6,447,365 which describes a brassiere which ultimately was found to be impractical because of the stiffness of the armature embedded in the softer surround.
It is therefore the principal object of our present invention to provide an improved underwire structure which can overcome all of the drawbacks enumerated previously and provide improved comfort, shaping, support and convenience of manufacture for a brassiere.
Another object of this invention is to provide a brassiere with an improved underwire structure.
These objects and others which will become apparent hereinafter are attained, in accordance with the invention in an underwire assembly adapted to be incorporated into a brassiere and comprising:
a generally flat U-shaped hard underwire adapted to be positioned in a brassiere below in a cup thereof and along the chest of a wearer, the underwire being formed with two parallel arcuate portions joined at respective ends and separated by an arcuate slot between the ends; and
a soft plastic body in which the hard underwire is embedded, ensheathing the hard underwire along a bottom of the body and having an apron along a concave side of the body lying at an angle to a plane of the hard underwire so that the body and the underwire form a pocket receiving a breast of the wearer in the cup.
The brassiere in turn comprises:
a generally flat U-shaped hard plastic underwire adapted to be positioned in the brassiere below the respective cup and along the chest of a wearer and formed with two parallel arcuate portions joined at respective ends and separated by an arcuate slot between the ends; and
a soft plastic body in which the hard plastic underwire is embedded, ensheathing the hard plastic underwire along a bottom of the body and having an apron along a concave side of the body lying at an angle to a plane of the hard plastic underwire so that the soft plastic body and underwire of each cup forms a pocket receiving the respective breast,
each of the assemblies being affixed to the structure.
The hard plastic wire or armature is not wholly enclosed by the soft plastic and is exposed through windows therein at which the fabric can be attached by ultrasonic welding or laminating when stitching is used to attach the dual wire to the fabric, the stitching may run in the arcuate slit between he parallel arcuate portions.
According to a feature of the invention, while the underwire can be formed from a pair of metal wires interconnected at their ends by respective caps, the underwire is preferably formed in one piece from a hard plastic, for example, polyamide-6,6 or nylon 6,6 or another plastic having a stiffness, rigidity and hardness comparable to that of polyamide-6,6. The soft plastic body is preferably a polyurethane with a Shore hardness 80A to 90A or an equivalent soft, flexible and, if desired, elastomeric plastic.
The angle which is included between the plane of the U shaped hard underwire and the a frame can vary along the length of the underwire and corresponds generally to the angle at which a breast to be supported adjoins the chest. Surprisingly, unlike conventional underwire configurations, the underwire assembly forms a cup or pocket itself incorporated into the brassiere cup which receives the breast so that the weight of the breast will draw the ends of the underwire assembly toward one another and thereby counteract the tendency of the tension at the back of the brassiere to spread the underwires.
The body of each underwire assembly can also comprise a tab projecting from a convex side of the body at a location corresponding to a junction region of the cups of the brassiere. The tab also lies at an angle to this plane and like the apron can be provided with throughgoing slits running generally perpendicular to the hard plastic underwire.
To increase the flexibility, cuts are provided through the soft plastic of the body substantially along the arcuate slot.
Spaced apart openings in the body can enable ultrasonic welding of the fabric through these openings to the hard plastic underwire.
The arcuate portions of the hard plastic underwire have generally flat cross sections with the inner arcuate portion being thinner than the outer annular portion.
The arcuate portion along the convex side can be formed along the length thereof with segments of alternatingly greater and lesser thicknesses, thereby producing formations or steps which assist in maintaining the hard plastic underwire in position within the body and preventing shifting.
The assembly can be covered by fabric of the brassiere structure on both sides and that fabric can be stitched through the soft plastic. Preferably however the fabric is laminated to the structure, e.g. by ultrasonic welding. Ultrasonic weld points may pass directly to the hard plastic underwire through openings in the soft plastic body.
When stitching is used to secure the dual wire in the fabric, it runs through the slit in the hard wire between the arcuate portions thereof.
The combination of a hard member which nevertheless is formed with a slit along its length between inner and outer segments with a soft structure in which that hard member is ensheathed, allows advantages of both materials to reinforce one another. The underwire itself is stiff in its plane but because of its arcuate slit can allow the two segments to shift transversely and thereby flex transversely to the plane. It is therefore not rigid in the sense of a body with a solid cross-section (by contrast with a cross section subdivided by a slit). Warping however is largely precluded. The soft material cushions the harder plastic relative to the body over the entire length and provides, because of the apron structure, a pocket or pouch holding the breast. The wire structure thus can hug the breast along its underside and itself be stabilized by the breast.
The above and other objects, features, and advantages will become more readily apparent from the following description, reference being made to the accompanying drawing in which:
The key element to the dual wire underwire assembly of the invention is an underwire 10 (
In addition, the outer element can be formed with successive regions 17 and 18 alternately of lesser and greater thickness so that steps 19 are formed between these regions and serve as stops, when the underwire is embedded in the soft body to prevent that underwire from shifting in the body in which it is sheathed.
Because one or the other of the arcuate portions can swing relative to another portion, that wire has been referred to as a swing wire and has the properties described in the commonly owned copending application Ser. No. 11/232,424, filed 21 Sep. 2005 which is hereby incorporated in its entirety by reference.
According to the present invention, that underwire is not incorporated directly in the brassiere but is partly embedded as shown at 10, 11 and 12 of
The angle α may be 135°+10° and may vary by ±10°, for example, over the length of the assembly.
At one end, the soft plastic body is formed with a tab 25, located toward the armpit area to facilitate retaining the assembly in the brassiere. The angle between the apron 22 and the planar portion 21 can correspond to the angle between the breast and the chest wall against which, through the fabric of the brassiere, the portion 21 will lie. Both the apron 22 and the tab 25 are provided with throughgoing slots 26 and 27 which are perpendicular to the hard plastic underwire which is retained therein.
As can be seen from
In a less preferred alternative, the swing wire of
In