Patent Application
20140336136
The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological compositions comprising carboxylated stilbene derivatives and their use for skin care as well as prevention and/or treatment of skin conditions, in particular prevention and/or treatment of aging.
There is an increasing interest in stilbenoids such as trans-reserveratrol for nutraceutical, cosmetic, and putatively pharmaceutical uses. Amongst other effects, transtrans-resveratrol and related hydrostilbenes are sirtuin agonists (US-A-2012/0172340) and activate AMPK (Baur (2010) Biochim. Biophys. Acta 1804(8), 1626-1634).
Hashimoto et al. (1988) Phytochemistry 27, 109-113, disclose dihydrostilbene derivatives obtained by semi-synthetic preparation from Hydrangea extracts.
The technical problem underlying the present invention is to provide improved cosmetic and dermatological formulations containing alternative stilbenoid compounds inspired by nature.
The solution to the above technical problem is provided by the embodiments of the present invention as described herein and in the claims.
In particular, the present invention provides a compound of general formula (I) for use in topical application on skin
wherein
In case in the above formula (I) is a double bond, the stilbenoid compound is preferably a trans-stilbene, i,e. the double bond is a trans-configured double bond.
In preferred compounds of formula (I) R1 is hydrogen or C1-3-alkyl. In further preferred embodiments of the invention, R2 is hydroxyl or a lower alkoxy group, preferably C1-6-alkoxy, more preferably methoxy or ethoxy. Further preferred compounds of formula (I) are compounds wherein R3 is a lower alkyl group, in particular C1-6-alkyl, more preferably methyl or ethyl. In further preferred compounds of the above formula (I) X is O. In still further preferred compounds of the above formula (I) Q is 0.
Particularly preferred compounds for use in the present invention are those in which in formula (I)
R1 is hydrogen or C1-3-alkyl;
R2 is selected from hydroxy, methoxy and ethoxy;
R3 is C1-6-alkyl, more preferably methyl or ethyl;
Examples of highly preferred compounds for use in the invention have the following structures:
Most preferred, the compound of structure (I-1) is used in the embodiments of the invention.
It is to be understood that all the above compounds include their cosmetically and/or dermatologically acceptable salts and/or solvates, preferably hydrates, of these compounds.
Compounds for use in the present invention having structures as defined above may be prepared by synthesis starting from hydrangenol 8-β-D-glucoside which may be prepared from leaves of Hydrange macrophylla as disclosed in Hashimoto et al., supra, and according to synthetic principles described therein and general synthesis routes known to the skilled person.
According to the invention, it has been surprisingly found that the compounds of formula (I) are agonists of sirtuins, in particular sirtuins 1, 2 and/or 3, significantly enhance AMPK phosphorylation, and/or significantly increase the number of mitochondria in cells, preferably in skin cells, more preferably human skin cells. Such use according to the invention may, e.g. be in vitro or in vivo. In particular, the compounds for use in the invention show a greater efficacy, e.g. a higher sirtuin activation, in comparison to trans-resveratrol which is described in the prior art as the most widely used sirtuin activator (see, e.g., Baur (2010), supra).
The above characteristics (or at least one of them) make the compounds of formula (I) particularly suitable for cosmetic and medical, i.e. dermatological, applications, preferably as cosmetic and dermatological skin care products, more preferably as anti-aging actives, typically leading, amongst other effects, to skin tightening, reduction of wrinkles and/or complexion improvement.
The invention therefore further relates to cosmetic and dermatological compositions containing a compound as defined above together with at least one cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier, excipient and/or diluent.
A “cosmetic composition” or “dermatological composition” as defined herein is a composition comprising a substance according to formula (I) typically in a basic cosmetic or dermatological formulation such that the composition is suitable for application on skin, preferably human skin.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a compound of general formula (I), e.g. a compound according to formula (I-1), (I-2), (I-3), (I-4) or (I-5), in an amount of from 0.0001 to 20 wt.-%, preferably 0.001 to 10 wt.-%, more preferably 0.001 to 5 wt.-%, still more preferably 0.001 to 2 wt.-%, yet more preferably 0.01 to 1 wt.-%, most preferably 0.1 to 0.3 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one further active ingredient selected from the group consisting of cooling agents, UV radiation absorbers and/or filters, and antioxidants.
In a preferred embodiment, one or more cooling agents are selected from the group consisting of menthone glycerol acetal, also known as Frescolat®MGA, menthyl lactate, also known as Frescolat®ML, wherein menthyl lactate is preferably I-menthyl lactate, more preferably I-menthyl I-lactate, substituted menthyl-3-carboxylic acid amides, e.g. menthyl-3-carboxylic acid N-ethylamide, also known as WS-3, Nα-(L-menthanecarbonyl)glycine ethyl ester, also known as WS-5,2-isopropyl-N-2,3-trimethylbutanamide, also known as WS-23, substituted cyclohexanecarboxylic acid amides, 3-menthoxypropane-1,2-diol, 2-hydroxyethyl menthyl carbonate, 2-hydroxypropyl menthyl carbonate, N-acetylglycine menthyl ester, isopulegol, menthyl hydroxycarboxylic acid esters, e.g. menthyl 3-hydroxybutyrate, monomenthyl succinate, monomenthyl glutarate, 2-mercaptocyclodecanone, menthyl 2-pyrrolidin-5-onecarboxylate, 2,3-dihydroxy-p-menthane, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexanone glycerol ketal, 3-menthyl 3,6-di- and -trioxaalkanoates, 3-menthyl methoxyacetate and icilin.
In a preferred embodiment, the total amount of cooling agents in the compositions according to the invention is 0.01 to 5 wt.-%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt.-%, more preferably 0.25 to 3 wt.-%, even more preferably 0.3 to 2.5 wt.-%, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.
Suitable UV filters are e.g. p-aminobenzoic acid, p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (25 mol) ethoxylated, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (2 mol) N-propoxylated, p-aminobenzoic acid glycerol ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester (homosalate) (Neo Heliopan®HMS), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®OS), triethanolamine salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, anthranilic acid menthyl ester (Neo Heliopan®MA), diisopropylcinnamic acid ethyl ester, p-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®AV), diisopropylcinnamic acid methyl ester, p-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester (Neo Heliopan®E 1000), p-methoxycinnamic acid diethanolamine salt, p-methoxycinnamic acid isopropyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (Neo Heliopan®303), ethyl 2-cyano-3,3′-diphenylacrylate, 2-phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid and salts (Neo Heliopan®Hydro), 3-(4′-trimethylammonium)-benzylidene-bornan-2-one methyl-sulfate, terephthalylidene-dibornanesulfonic acid and salts (Mexoryl®SX), 4-t-butyl-4′-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane (avobenzone)/(Neo Heliopan®357), [beta]-Imidazole-4(5)-acrylic acid (urocanic acid), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (Neo Heliopan®BB), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-n-octoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone, 3-(4′-sulfo)benzylidene-bornan-2-one and salts, 3-(4′-methylbenzylidene)-d,l-cmphor (Neo Heliopan®MBC), 3-benzylidene-d,l-camphor, A-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethylhexyl-1′-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, phenylene-bis-benzimidazyl-tetrasulfonic acid disodium salt (Neo Heliopan®AP), 2,2′-(1,4-phenylene)-bis-(1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid), monosodium salt, N-[(2 and 4)-[2-(oxoborn-3-ylidene)methyl]benzyl]acrylamide polymer, phenol, 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(trimethylsilyl)-oxy)-disiloxyanyl)-propyl), (Mexoryl®XL), 4,4′-[(6-[4-(1,1-dimethyl)-aminocarbonylyphenylmino]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl)diimino]-bis-(benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uvasorb®HEB), 2,2′-methylene-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol), (Tinosorb® M), 2,4-bis-[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-1,3,5-triazine, benzylidene malonate-polysiloxane (Parsol®SLX), glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate, disodium 2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxy-5,5′-disulfo-benzophenone, dipropylene glycol salicylate, sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenone-sulfonate, 4,4′,4-(1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoic acid tris(2-ethylhexyl ester) (UvinurT150), 2,4-bis-[{(4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, (Tinosorb®S),2,4-bis-[{(4-(3-sulfonato)-2-hydroxy}-propyloxy)-2-hydroxyyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis-[{(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy}-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxy-phenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis-[{4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}-phenyl]-6-[4-(2-methoxyethyl-carbonyl)-phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis-[{4-(3-(2-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy}-phenyl]-6-[4-(2-ethylcarboxyl)-phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis-[{4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}-phenyl]-6-(1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl)-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis-[{4-tris-(trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy)-2-hydroxy}-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxy-phenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis-[{4-(2″-methylpropenyloxy)-2-hydroxy}-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis-[{4-(1′,1′,1′,3′,5′,5′,5′-heptamethylsiloxy-2″-methyl-propyloxy)-2-hydroxy}-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoic acid hexyl ester (Uvinul® A Plus) and indanylidene compounds according to DE 100 55 940 (=WO-A-02/38537).
UV absorbers which are particularly suitable for combination are p-aminobenzoic acid, 3-(4′-trimethylammonium)-benzylidene-bornan-2-one methyl-sulfate, salicylic acid homomethyl ester (Neo Heliopan®HMS), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (Neo Heliopan®BB), 2-phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (Neo Heliopan®Hydro), terephthalylidene-dibornanesulfonic acid and salts (Mexoryl®SX), 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Neo Heliopan®357), 3-(4′-sulfo)benzylidene-bornan-2-one and salts, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (Neo Heliopan®303), N-[(2 and 4)-[2-(oxoborn-3-ylidene)methyl]benzyl]-acrylmide polymer, p-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®AV), p-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (25 mol) ethoxylated, p-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester (Neo Heliopan®E1000), 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethylhexyl-1′-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine (Uvinul®T150), phenol, 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(trimethylsilyl)-oxy)-disiloxyanyl)-propyl), (Mexoryl®XL), 4,4′-[(6-[4-(1,1-dimethyl)-aminocarbonyl)-phenylamino]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl)-diimino]-bis-(benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester), (UvasorbHEB), 3-(4′-methylbenzylidene)-d,l-cmphor (Neo Heliopan®MBC), 3-benzylidenecamphor, salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Neo Heliopan®OS), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Padimate O), hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and Na salt, 2,2′-methylene-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol), (Tinosorb®M), phenylene-bis-benzimidazyl-tetrasulfonic acid disodium salt (Neo Heliopan®AP), 2,4-bis-[{(4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy}-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, (Tinosorb®S), benzylidene malonate-polysiloxane (Parsol®SLX), menthyl anthranilate (Neo Heliopan®MA), 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoic acid hexyl ester (Uvinul®A Plus) and indanylidene compounds according to DE 100 55 940 (=WO-A-02/38537).
Suitable UV absorbers and/or filters are also sunscreen pigments such as finely dispersed metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxides, zinc oxide (ZnO), iron oxides (e.g. Fe2O3), aluminium oxide (Al2O3); cerium oxides (e.g. Ce2O3), manganese oxides (e.g. MnO), zirconium oxide (ZrO2), silicon oxide (SiO2), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides, barium sulfate and zinc stearate. They are particularly preferably pigments based on TiO2 or zinc oxide. In preferred embodiments, the particles have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and particularly preferably between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but those particles which have an ellipsoid shape or a shape which deviates otherwise from the spherical can also be employed. The pigments can also be in a form treated on the surface, i.e. hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as e.g. titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck), or coated zinc oxide, such as e.g. Zinc Oxide NDM. In this context, possible hydrophobic coating agents are, above all, silicones, and in this case specifically trialkoxyoctysilanes or simethicone. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably employed in sunscreen compositions. Zinc micro- or nanopigments are preferably employed.
In a preferred embodiment, the total amount of UV radiation absorbers and/or filters in the compositions for use according to the invention is 0.01 to 20 wt.-%, preferably 0.05 to 10 wt.-%, more preferably 0.2 to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
According to preferred embodiments, one or more antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids, preferably glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan, and derivatives thereof, imidazoles, preferably urocanic acid, and derivatives thereof, peptides, preferably D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof, preferably anserine, carotenoids, carotenes, preferably α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene, and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivatives thereof, preferably dihydroliponic acid, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols, preferably thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof, and salts thereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts thereof, (metal) chelators, preferably α-hydroxy-fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin, α-hydroxy acids, preferably citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof, preferably γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives, preferably ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl glycosides, preferably 6-O-acyl-2-O-a-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid, 6-O-acyl-2-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid, 2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid or 2-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid, tocopherols and derivatives thereof, preferably vitamin E acetate, vitamin A and derivatives thereof, preferably vitamin A palmitate as well as coniferylbenzoate of benzoin resin, rutic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glucosylrutin, quercetin and derivatives thereof, rosemary acid, carnosol, carnosol acid, resveratrol, caffeic acid and derivatives thereof, sinapic acid and derivatives thereof, ferulic acid and derivatives thereof, furfurylideneglucitol, curcuminoids, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, superoxide dismutase, zinc and derivatives thereof, preferably ZnO, ZnSO4, selenium and derivatives thereof, preferably selenium methionine, stilbenes and derivatives thereof, preferably stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide and derivatives, preferably salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids, of these active compounds mentioned and combinations thereof. Alternatively or additionally antioxidatively active extracts or fractions from plants selected from the group consisting of green tea, rooibos, honeybush, grape, rosemary, sage, Melissa, thyme, lavender, olive, oats, cocoa, ginkgo, ginseng, liquorice, honeysuckle, Sophora, Pueraria, Pinus, Citrus, Phyllanthus emblica, St. John's wort and combinations thereof are suitable antioxidants.
In a preferred embodiment, the total amount of antioxidants in the compositions for use according to the invention is preferably 0.01 to 20 wt.-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt.-%, in particular 0.2 to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.
In further embodiments, the compositions as defined herein contain a preservative as a further ingredient, which may preferably be selected from the group consisting of benzoic acid and its esters and salts, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its esters (INCI: Parabens, preferably methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, propylparaben and/or isobutylparaben) and salts, propionic acid and its esters and salts, salicylic acid and its esters and salts, 2,4-hexadienoic acid (sorbic acid) and its esters and salts, formaldehyde and paraformaldehyde, 2-hydroxybiphenyl ether and its salts, 2-zinc-sulfidopyridine N-oxide, inorganic sulfites and bisulfites, sodium iodate, chlorobutanolum, 4-ethylmercury(II)-5-amino-1,3-bis(2-hydroxybenzoic acid), its salts and esters, dehydracetic acid, formic acid, 1,6-bis(4-amidino-2-bromophenoxy)-n-hexane and its salts, the sodium salt of ethylmercury-(Il)thiosalicylic acid, phenylmercury and its salts, 10-undecylenic acid and its salts, 5-amino-1,3-bis(2-ethylhexyl)-5-methyl-hexahydropyrimidine, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, 2-bromo-2-nitro-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dichlorobenzyl alcohol, N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N′-(3,4-dichlorophenyl)-urea, 4-chloro-m-cresol, 2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxy-diphenyl ether, 4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol, 1,1′-methylene-bis(3-(1-hydroxymethyl-2,4-dioximidazolidin-5-yl)urea), poly-(hexamethylenediguanide) hydrochloride, 2-phenoxyethanol, hexamethylenetetramine, 1-(3-chloroallyl)-3,5,7-triaza-1-azonia-adamantane chloride, 1-(4-chlorophenoxy)-1-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)-3,3-dimethyl-2-butanone, 1,3-bis-(hydroxy-methyl)-5,5-dimethyl-2,4-imidazolidinedione, benzyl alcohol, Octopirox, 1,2-dibromo-2,4-dicyanobutane, 2,2′-methylene-bis(6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), bromochlorophene, mixture of 5-chloro-2-methyl-3(2H)-isothiazolinone and 2-methyl-3(2H)-isothiazolinone with magnesium chloride and magnesium nitrate, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 2-chloroacetamide, chlorhexidine, chlorhexidine acetate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, 1-phenoxy-propan-2-ol, N-alkyl(C12-C22)trimethyl-ammonium bromide and chloride, 4,4-dimethyl-1,3-oxazolidine, N-hydroxymethyl-N-(1,3-di(hydroxymethyl)-2,5-dioxoimidazolidin-4-yl)-N′-hydroxy-methylurea, 1,6-bis(4-amidino-phenoxy)-n-hexane and its salts, glutaraldehyde, 5-ethyl-1-aza-3,7-dioxabicyclo(3.3.0)octane, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-1,2-propanediol, hyamines, alkyl-(C8-C18)-dimethyl-benzyl-ammonium chloride, alkyl-(C8-C18)-dimethyl-benzylammonium bromide, alkyl-(C8-C18)-dimethyl-benzyl-ammonium saccharinate, benzyl hemiformal, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, sodium hydroxymethyl-aminoacetate or sodium hydroxymethyl-aminoacetate.
Cosmetically acceptable carriers for use in compositions of the invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of
The C log P value (also known as log Pow) is the decimal logarithm of the distribution coefficient of a substance or material between 1-octanol and water. C log P values are well known in the chemical arts as a calculated value that represents the relative affinity that a substance or material has for partitioning between octanol and water. C log P values can be obtained or calculated as described and referenced in WO-A-2008/114189.
In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise a total amount of 5 to 70 wt.-%, preferably 7.5 to 60 wt.-%, more preferably 10 to 50 wt.-%, even more preferably 10 to 40 wt.-%, of one or more cosmetically acceptable carriers as defined above, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise water in an amount of up to 98 wt.-%, preferably 10 to 95 wt.-%, more preferably 25 to 90 wt.-%, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the compositions for use according to the invention comprise at least one further ingredient selected from the group consisting of moisture retention regulators, anti-inflammatory agents and skin care agents, anti-aging agents, vitamins and vitamin precursors, plant extracts and fragrances.
The present invention further relates to a cosmetic method for skin care, preferably for the prevention and/or treatment of skin aging, comprising the step of topically applying an effective amount of a cosmetic composition as defined above onto human skin.
The present invention also relates to a dermatological method for medical skin care, in particular for prevention and/treatment of skin conditions, more preferably for the medical prevention and/or treatment of skin aging, for example for dermatological skin care of diabetic skin, which method comprises the step of topically applying an effective amount of a dermatological composition as defined above onto skin of a human in need of such treatment.
An effective amount of a composition as defined herein is typically 0.1 to 5 g of the compositions applied to about 10 cm2 of human skin.
The compositions of the invention may be applied to human skin at least once in a week, preferably once a day, more preferably twice a day.
The composition of the invention for cosmetic or dermatological use may take the form of or may be contained in, respectively, a typical cosmetic or dermatological product being preferably selected from the group consisting of soap, synthetic detergent, liquid washing, shower and bath preparation, skin care product, perfume, sunscreen product, after-sun product, foot care product, depilatory product, hair care product, deodorant, antiperspirant, mouthwash, ophthalmic preparation, nasal care product, makeup, makeup remover, decorative cosmetics, shaving product and after-shave product.
Exemplary skin care products include day and night creams, body lotions and body sprays. The day creams, skin lotions and night creams preferably include O/W-day creams, O/W-skin lotions and O/W-night creams, respectively.
Perfumes preferably also include eau de toilettes and eau de colognes.
Sunscreen products preferably include balms, lotions and milks. After-sun products preferably include balms, lotions and milks.
Foot care products preferably include keratolytics and deodorants.
Hair care products preferably include shampoos, preferably 2-in-1-shampoos, conditioners, hair tonic waters, hair rinses, hair creams, pomade, perm and setting lotions, hair smoothing products, preferably detangling products or relaxers, hair strengtheners, styling aids, preferably gels or waxes, blonding products, hair dyes, preferably temporary hair dyes, colour rinses, semi-permanent and permanent hair-dyes.
Decorative cosmetics preferably include powders, eyeshadows, kohl pencils and lipsticks.
Exemplary shaving products preferably include shaving foam, shaving gel, shaving soap and shaving lather. Exemplary after-shave products preferably include after-shave balm, after-shave lotion, after-shave splash, and after-shave.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological product according to the invention is in the form of a solution, dispersion, suspension, cream, lotion, milk, emulsion, ointment, suppository, paste, gel, oil, toner, balsam, serum, powder, wax, stick, spray, aerosol, or wipe.
Emulsions preferably include W/O-, O/W- or multiple emulsions, PIT emulsions, emulsion foams, micro-emulsions, nano-emulsions, and Pickering emulsions. Gels preferably include hydrogels, hydrodispersion gels and oleogels. Aerosols preferably include foaming, non-foaming or post-foaming aerosols. Wipes preferably also include wet wipes.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological product of the invention is in the form of an emulsion or a wipe, preferably a wet wipe. Most preferably, the cosmetic product according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion.
If the cosmetic or dermatological product according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, the oily phase is preferably selected from the group consisting of:
mineral oils, mineral waxes;
fatty oils, fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
alkyl benzoates;
silicone oils, such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.
Compounds which can advantageously be employed are (a) esters of saturated and/or unsaturated branched and/or linear alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 3 to 30 C atoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or linear alcohols having a chain length of from 3 to 30 C atoms, (b) esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or linear alcohols having a chain length of from 3 to 30 C atoms. Preferred ester oils are isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethyl hexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. jojoba oil.
The oily phase can furthermore advantageously be selected from the group consisting of branched and linear hydrocarbons and waxes, silicone oils and dialkyl ethers, the group consisting of saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or linear alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. olive oil, sunflower oil, soya oil, groundnut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and more of the like. Any desired blends of such oil and wax components can also advantageously be employed. In some cases it is also advantageous to employ waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oily phase, and the oily phase is advantageously chosen from the group which consists of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C12-15-alkyl benzoate, caprylic/capric acid triglyceride and dicaprylyl ether. Mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C12-15-alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous. The hydrocarbons paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can also advantageously be used. The oily phase can furthermore have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, it being advantageous to use an additional content of other oily phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicone oils. Cyclomethicone (e.g. decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) can advantageously be employed as a silicone oil. However, other silicone oils, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane and poly(methyl-phenylsiloxane), can also advantageously be used. Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are furthermore particularly advantageous.
Cosmetic or dermatological products in the form of an emulsion which comprise a composition for use according to the invention advantageously further comprise one or more emulsifiers. O/W emulsifiers can preferably be selected from the group consisting of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products. In a preferred embodiment, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated 0/W emulsifiers employed are selected from the group consisting of substances having HLB values of 11-18, preferably having HLB values of 14.5-15.5, if the 0/W emulsifiers contain saturated radicals R and R′. If the 0/W emulsifiers contain unsaturated radicals R and/or R′, or isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher. It is particularly preferable to select the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group consisting of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols and cetyl stearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Exemplary W/O emulsifiers which can be employed are: fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms and sorbitan esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms.
The following non-limiting examples further illustrate the present invention.
The agonistic effect of compounds of formula (I) on human sirtuin-1 (Sirt1) was determined in vitro and compared with the known agonistic effect of trans-resveratrol as benchmark.
Compounds were tested for Sirt1 activation using the SIRT1 Fluorimetric Drug Discovery Kit (BioMol, Hamburg, Germany), Testing was carried out in dubplicate following the manufacturer's instructions. Assay medium: 50 mM Tris-HCl pH 8.0, 137 mM NaCl, 2.7 mM KCl, 1 mM MgCl2, 1 mg/ml bovine serum albumin (BSA). Stock solutions of the test compounds (10 mM in DMSO) were used, yielding a final concentration of 10 μM in the assay plate. Readout was obtained by measuring the fluorescence in a microtiter plate reader (excitation: 380 nm; detection: 440 nm).
Screening at 10 μM concentration: results are shown in Table 1
(b) Quantification of the Sirt1 Agonistic Effect, Dose Response
The agonistic effect on Sirt1 was determined at different concentrations.
For this purpose, the test item stock solutions were diluted to yield concentrations of 0.3, 1, 3, 10 and 30 μM, respectively, in the assay, which was performed as described above. The compound of structure (I-1) was selected for this experiment. The dose-response behaviour observed was found clearly superior in comparison to trans-resveratrol (Table 2).
Quantification using the GraphPad Prism 5.0 software (GraphPad Software, Inc., LaJolla, Calif., USA) led to the following EC300 values (i.e. the concentration that gave 3-times the basal response of the enzyme=activation by a factor of three):
Compound of formula (I-1): EC300=2.0 μM
The selectivity of the agonistic effect of the compound of formula (I-1) on different sirtuin isoforms was investigated. For this purpose, in vitro testing was performed as described in Example 1 using the respective SIRT1 Fluorimetric Drug Discovery Kit, SIRT2 Fluorimetric Drug Discovery Kit, and SIRT3 Fluorimetric Drug Discovery Kit (each from BioMol, Hamburg, Germany). The results demonstrate that compound (I-1) has an agonistic acitivity on all three sirtuin isoform and shows similar dose-response behaviours on Sirt1 and Sirt2. The dose-response effect is slightly lesser on Sirt3.
Quantification using the GraphPad Prism 5.0 software (GraphPad Software, Inc., LaJolla, Calif., USA) leads to the following EC300 values (Table 6):
The effect of compound (I-1) on 5′-AMP-activated protein kinase (AMPK) was measured in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK). AMPK is activated by phosphorylation as phospho-AMPK (P-AMPK). The degree of phosphorylation was evaluated by Western blot. Glycerinaldehyde-3-phosphate dehydrogenase (GAPDH) was used as housekeeping protein and loading control. The level of AMPK phosphorylation was determined by calculating the P-AMPK/GAPDH ratio. 5-Amino-1-βD-ribofuranosyl-imidazole-4-carboxamide (AICAR), a known stimulator of AMPK activation (Corton et al. (1995), Eur. J. Biochem. 229, pp. 558-565), was used as positive control.
Culture conditions: 37° C., 5% CO2. Culture medium: Keratinocyte-SFM (serum-free medium) containing human recombinant epidermal growth factor (EGF 1-53) 0.25 ng/mL and bovine pituitary extract 25 μg/mL (Gibco; Cat. No. 17005-075), supplemented with gentamycin 25 μg/mL. Assay medium: Keratinocyte-SFM (Gibco; Cat. No. 10744-019), supplemented with gentamycin 25 μg/mL.
NHEK were seeded in 24-well plates (30.000 cells/well) and cultured in culture medium for 24 h and then in assay medium for another 24 h. Medium was then removed and replaced by assay medium containing the respective test compound or reference in defined concentrations.
Cytotoxicity was determined using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazoliumbromid (MTT) reduction assay (sse T. Mosmann (1983) J. Immunol. Methods. 65, pp. 55-63). All cells were found to be fully viable except for those incubated with trans-resveratrol at 100 μM (2% viability) and at 300 μM (43% viability), illustrating the cytotoxic effect of trans-resveratrol on NHEK at the respective concentrations. At the same concentrations, NHEK cells with compound (I-1) retained full viability.
The cells were incubated for 48 h in assay medium containing the test items. Cell lysis was performed using Cell Extraction Buffer (Invitrogen, Cat. No. FNN0011), supplemented with the Phosphatase Inhibitor Cocktail 1 (Sigma-Aldrich, Cat. No. P2850). The protein amount was quantified using the DC™ protein assay (Biorad, Cat. No. 500-0112). Volumes were adjusted in order to load for each condition 20 μg of total proteins per lane. Proteins were denaturized in Laemmli buffer (Biorad, Cat. No. 161-0737) at 95° C., subjected to electrophoresis on a 10% polyacrylamide gel, and then transferred onto nitrocellulose membrane. After saturation in phosphate buffered saline (PBS)/Tween/bovine serum albumin (BSA), P-AMPK and GAPDH were successively detected using specific primary antibodies (Anti-P-AMPK, ref #4188, Cell signalling technology; Anti-GAPDH[HRP], ref #ab9482, ABCAM). P-AMPK primary antibody was detected using an appropriate horseradish peroxidise (HRP)-conjugated secondary antibody whereas GAPDH was directly conjugated to HRP. A single blot was developed successively for each of the markers. After each antibody incubation the blot was washed using stripping buffer allowing for fixation of the next antibody. The different markers were developed by enhanced chemiluminescence (ECL Plus Amersham™, GE Healthcare). Image acquisition was performed with a scanner of chemiluminescence (FUJI LAS 3000, Fujifilm); and densitometric analysis was obtained using Multigauge software (Fujifilm).
Conclusions:
i) Compound (I-1) significantly enhanced AM PK phosphorylation at 30 μM.
The effect of compound (I-1) on mitochondria biosynthesis was investigated in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF). NHDF were obtained from PromoCell (Lot No. 006151; female Caucasian donor; age 61 years; from eyelid skin) and cultivated in Fibroblast Growth Medium (PromoCell; Cat. No. C-023020) supplemented with Supplement Mix (PromoCell; Cat. No. C-039215) at 37° C./5% CO2. NHDF were seeded in flat-bottom 96-well plates (5000 cells/well) and incubated in said medium for 24 h or 48 h, respectively, with the compounds present in concentrations ranging from 0.03 μM to 200 μM. Mitochondria content was analyzed using the Mito-ID® Green Detection Kit for fluorescence microscopy (Enzo Life Sciences; Cat. No. ENZ-51055-K500). Fluorometric analysis was done using a Spectramax plate reader (Molecular Devices) and following the manufacturer's protocol. Cytotoxicity was determined in parallel by fluorometric readout using the Resazurin Based In Vitro Toxicology Assay Kit (Sigma Aldrich, Cat. No. TOX-8), and following the manufacturer's protocol.
Results:
The total content of mitochondria in NHDF was significantly enhanced by compound (I-1) after incubation for 24 h and 48 h, respectively, while no cytotoxicity or loss of cell viability was observed. Significant enhancement of mitochondria biosynthesis was observed at concentrations of about 10 μM or higher.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 13167254.5 | May 2013 | EP | regional |
