Patent Application
20200261340
A subject of the invention is a process for dyeing keratin fibres such as the hair, using at least one cationic direct dye bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function and comprising at least one ammonium group bearing an aliphatic chain (I). Another subject of the invention is the use i) of at least one cationic direct dye bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function (I) combined with ii) steam and/or a heating iron for straightening keratin fibres, for dyeing keratin fibres, and novel cationic direct dyes bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function (I), and also a cosmetic composition comprising same.
It is known to dye keratin fibres by direct dyeing or semi-permanent dyeing. Direct dyeing or semi-permanent dyeing consists in introducing the colour via a coloured molecule which becomes adsorbed at the surface of the individual hair or which penetrates into the individual hair. Thus, the process conventionally used in direct dyeing consists in applying to keratin fibres direct dyes, which are coloured and colouring molecules that have affinity for the fibres, leaving the fibres in contact with the colouring molecules and then rinsing the fibres. Generally, this technique leads to chromatic colourings.
Scientific research has been conducted for several years to modify the colour of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, and in particular to mask white fibres, to modify the colour of the fibres permanently or temporarily, and to satisfy new desires and needs in terms of colours and durability.
Patent applications EP 1 647 580, WO 2005/097 051, EP 2 004 759, EP 2 075 289, WO 2007/110 541, WO 2007/110 540, WO 2007/110 539, WO 2007/110 538, WO 2007/110 537, WO 2007/110 536, WO 2007/110 535, WO 2007/110 534, WO 2007/110 533, WO 2007/110 532, WO 2007/110 531, EP 2 070 988, WO 2009/040 354 and WO 2009/034 059 disclose direct dyes bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function, which may be grafted onto the hair using a reductive treatment. As it happens, the majority of reducing agents have a tendency to impair the integrity of keratin fibres, having the effect of making them brittle. In addition, when combined with dyes bearing a disulfide function, reducing agents generally generate unpleasant odours.
Moreover, the colourations obtained do not always give the keratin fibre a quality of softness and easy untangling, or the associated treatments are not always long-lasting.
The aim of the present invention is to provide novel hair dyeing systems for obtaining colourations which are fast with respect to external agents, uniform and very strong, and/or which do not impair the cosmetic properties of keratin fibres, or even which give said fibres a care valency, this being even without the use of a reducing agent and/or of a chemical oxidizing agent.
These aims are achieved with the present invention, the first subject of which is a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, such as the hair, consisting in applying to the fibres at least one cationic direct dye bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function of formula (I):
A—(X)p—Csat—S—U (I)
salts thereof with an organic or mineral acid, optical or geometric isomers thereof, tautomers thereof, and solvates thereof such as the hydrates,
in which formula (I):
Another subject of the invention is the use, for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular the hair, of at least one cationic direct dye of formula (I) as defined above, preferably combined with a treatment with steam and/or an iron for straightening the keratin fibres. Another subject of the invention is a dye composition comprising at least one disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol dye of formula (I) as defined above, and a compound of formula (I) as defined above.
The dyeing process of the invention in particular makes it possible to dye human keratin fibres such as the hair in a uniform, persistent, odourless manner, while providing care to said fibres. Furthermore, the dyeing and care provided to the keratin fibres are long-lasting. In addition, the keratin fibres are protected against heat treatments at a temperature greater than or equal to 80° C. provided, for example, using steam in particular originating from a steam iron.
In particular, the combination of the heat of the straightening iron combined with the application of a disulfide cationic derivative bearing a fatty chain in solution in a hydrophilic or hydrophobic medium gives the fibre a uniform colouration and persistent long-lasting care while at the same time respecting the integrity of the fibre (smooth feel, silky sheen appearance, facilitated untangling when dry and in a wet medium, improved manageability). The colourations obtained are thus aesthetic, very vivid and very fast with respect to common attacking factors such as sunlight, perspiration, sebum and other hair treatments such as successive shampooing, while at the same time respecting the keratin fibres. The vividness obtained is particularly noteworthy. The same is true for the uniformity of the colour and of the care given to the keratin fibres, this being even after heat treatment given to the keratin fibres.
For the purposes of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated:
1.1. Direct Dyes Bearing a Disulfide or Thiol Function of the Invention:
The direct dye(s) bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function used in the invention are of formula (I) as defined above.
One particular mode of the invention relates to the dyes bearing a disulfide function of formula (I) as defined above, i.e. for which U represents the following radical a) —S—C′sat—(X′)p′-A′, preferentially the disulfide dye(s) of the invention are symmetrical, i.e. comprise an axis of symmetry C2, in other words, A=A′, Csat=C′sat, X=X′ and p=p′.
Another particular mode of the invention relates to the dyes of formula (I) bearing a thiol function as defined above, i.e. U representing the radical b) Y.
1.1.1. Y:
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the cationic direct dye of formula (I) is a thiol dye, i.e. Y represents i) a hydrogen atom.
In accordance with another particular embodiment of the invention, in the abovementioned formula (I), Y is a protective group known to those skilled in the art, for instance those described in the publications “Protective Groups in Organic Synthesis”, T. W. Greene, published by John Wiley & Sons, N Y, 1981, pp. 193-217; “Protecting Groups”, P. Kocienski, Thieme, 3rd edition, 2005, chapter 5, and Ullmann's Encyclopedia, “Peptide Synthesis”, pp. 4-5, 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim 10.1002/14356007.a19 157.
In particular, Y represents a thiol-function protecting group chosen from the following radicals:
in which R′c, R′d, R′e, R′f, R′g and R′h, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, or alternatively two groups R′g with R′h, and/or R′e with R′f, form an oxo or thioxo group, or alternatively R′g with R′e together form a cycloalkyl; and v represents an integer between 1 and 3 inclusive; preferentially, R′c to R′h represent a hydrogen atom; and An′″− represents a counterion;
According to one particular embodiment, the thiol-protected dyes of formula (I) comprise a group Y chosen from i) aromatic cationic 5- or 6-membered monocyclic heteroaryl comprising from 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen, such as oxazolium, isoxazolium, thiazolium, isothiazolium, 1,2,4-triazolium, 1,2,3-triazolium, 1,2,4-oxazolium, 1,2,4-thiadiazolium, pyrylium, pyridinium, pyrimidinium, pyrazinyl, pyrazinium, pyridazinium, triazinium, tetrazinium, oxazepinium, thiepinyl, thiepinium, imidazolium; ii) cationic 8- to 11-membered bicyclic heteroaryl such as indolinium, benzimidazolium, benzoxazolium, benzothiazolium, these monocyclic or bicyclic heteroaryl groups optionally being substituted with one or more groups such as alkyl, for instance methyl, or polyhalo(C1-C4)alkyl such as trifluoromethyl; iii) or the following heterocyclic:
in which R′c and R′d, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (C1-C4)alkyl; preferentially R′c to R′d represent a group (C1-C4)alkyl such as methyl; and An′″− represents N a counterion.
In particular, Y represents a group chosen from oxazolium, isoxazolium, thiazolium, isothiazolium, 1,2,4-triazolium, 1,2,3-triazolium, 1,2,4-oxazolium, 1,2,4-thiadiazolium, pyrylium, pyridinium, pyrimidinium, pyrazinium, pyridazinium, triazinium and imidazolium, benzimidazolium, benzoxazolium, benzothiazolium, these groups being optionally substituted with one or more (C1-C4)alkyl groups, in particular methyl.
In particular, Y represents a protective group such as:
1.1.2. Csat and C′sat:
As indicated previously, in formula (I), Csat and C′sat, independently of each other, represent a linear or branched, optionally substituted, optionally cyclic C1-C18 alkylene chain.
Substituents that may be mentioned include amino groups, (C1-C4)alkylamino groups, (C1-C4)dialkyl amino groups, or the group Ra—Za—C(Zb)— (in which Za, Zb, which may be identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NRa′, and Ra represents an alkali metal, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group and Ra′ represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group) preferably present on the carbon in the beta or gamma position relative to the sulfur atoms.
Preferably, in the case of formulae (I), Csat and C′sat represent a chain —(CH2)k— with k being an integer between 1 and 8 inclusive.
1.1.3. X and X′:
In accordance with one particular embodiment of the invention, in the abovementioned formulae (I), when p and p′ are equal to 1, X and X′, which may be identical or different, represent the following sequence: —(T)t—(Z)z—(T′)t′—, said sequence being linked in formulae (I) symmetrically as follows: —Csat (or C′sat)—(T)t—(Z)z—(A or A′);
in which:
Moreover, according to one particular embodiment of the invention, Z represents:
1.1.4. A and A′:
The radicals A and A′ of formulae (I) represent a cationic chromophore, it being understood that at least one of the two chromophores preferably bears at least one ammonium group bearing a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C10-C30 aliphatic chain; more preferentially, the two radicals A and A′each bear an ammonium group bearing a C10-C30 aliphatic chain.
In particular, A and/or A′ bear a linear or branched (C10-C30)alkyl group, or a linear or branched (C10-C30)alkenyl group; and R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched (C1-C30)alkyl group or linear or branched (C2-C30)alkenyl group, preferably a (C1-C6)alkyl group.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the dyes (I) according to the invention are disulfides and comprise identical cationic chromophores A and A′.
More particularly, the dyes of formula (I) according to the invention are disulfides and symmetrical, i.e. they contain a C2 axis of symmetry, i.e. formula (I) is such that:
A—(X)p—Csat—S—S—C′sat—(X′)p′-A′ with A=A′,X=X′,p=p′,Csat=C′sat.
As cationic chromophores that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of those derived from the following dyes: acridines; acridones; anthranthrones; anthrapyrimidines; anthraquinones; azines; (poly)azos, hydrazono or hydrazones, in particular arylhydrazones; azomethines; benzanthrones; benzimidazoles; benzimidazolones; benzindoles; benzoxazoles; benzopyrans; benzothiazoles; benzoquinones; bisazines; bis-isoindolines; carboxanilides; coumarins; cyanins such as azacarbocyanins, diazacarbocyanins, diazahemicyanins, tetraazacarbocyanins or (poly)methines; diazines; diketopyrrolopyrroles; dioxazines; diphenylamines; diphenylmethanes; dithiazines; flavonoids such as flavanthrones and flavones; fluorindines; formazans; indamines; indanthrones; indigoids and pseudo-indigoids; indophenols; indoanilines; isoindolines; isoindolinones; isoviolanthrones; lactones; naphthoquinones; nitro, in particular nitro(hetero)aromatics; oxadiazoles; oxazines; perilones; perinones; perylenes; phenazines; phenoxazine; phenothiazines; phthalocyanine; polyenes/carotenoids; porphyrins; pyranthrones; pyrazolanthrones; pyrazolones; pyrimidinoanthrones; pyronines; quinacridones; quinolines; quinophthalones; squaranes; tetrazoliums; thiazines, thioindigo; thiopyronines; triarylmethanes, or xanthenes.
Preferentially, the chromophores are chosen from poly(azo), hydrazono and azomethine chromophores, more particularly from azo chromophores.
Among the cationic azo chromophores, mention may be made particularly of those derived from the cationic dyes described in the Kirk Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, “Dyes, Azo”, J. Wiley & Sons, updated on 19/04/2010.
Among the cationic azo chromophores A and/or A′ that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of radicals derived from the cationic azo dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO95/01772 and EP-714954.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the coloured chromophore A and/or A′ is chosen from cationic chromophores, preferentially those derived from dyes known as “basic dyes”. Among the azo chromophores, mention may be made of those described in the Colour Index International 3rd edition, and in particular the compounds of Arianor type: Basic Red 22; Basic Red 76; Basic Yellow 57; Basic Brown 16; Basic Brown 17.
Among the cationic quinone chromophores A and/or A′, those mentioned in the abovementioned Colour Index International are suitable for use, and among those, mention may be made, inter alia, of the radicals derived from the following dyes: Basic Blue 22; Basic Blue 99. Among the cationic azine chromophores A and/or A′, those listed in the Colour Index International are suitable for use, and for example the radicals derived from the following dyes: Basic Blue 17; Basic Red 2.
Among the cationic triarylmethane chromophores A and/or A′ that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made, besides those listed in the Colour Index, of the radicals derived from the following dyes: Basic Green 1; Basic Violet 3; Basic Violet 14; Basic Blue 7; Basic Blue 26.
Mention may also be made of the cationic chromophores derived from the dyes described in documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,888,252, EP 1 133 975, WO 03/029 359, EP 860 636, WO 95/01772, WO 95/15144 and EP 714 954. Mention may also be made of those listed in the encyclopaedia “The Chemistry of Synthetic Dyes” by K. Venkataraman, 1952, Academic Press, vol. 1 to 7, in the “Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology”, in the chapter “Dyes and Dye Intermediates”, 1993, Wiley and Sons, and in various chapters of “Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry”, 7th edition, Wiley and Sons.
Preferably, the cationic chromophores A and/or A′ are chosen from those derived from dyes of azo and hydrazono type.
According to one particular embodiment, the cationic radicals A and/or A′ in formula (I) comprise at least one cationic azo chromophore derived from a dye described in EP 850 636, FR 2 788 433, EP 920 856, WO 99/48465, FR 2 757 385, EP 850 637, EP 918 053, WO 97/44004, FR 2 570 946, FR 2 285 851, DE 2 538 363, FR 2 189 006, FR 1 560 664, FR 1 540 423, FR 1 567 219, FR 1 516 943, FR 1 221 122, DE 4 220 388, DE 4 137 005, WO 01/66646, U.S. Pat. No. 5,708,151, WO 95/01772, WO 515 144, GB 1 195 386, U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,524,842, 5,879,413, EP 1 062 940, EP 1 133 976, GB 738 585, DE 2 527 638, FR 2 275 462, GB 1974-27645, Acta Histochem, 61(1), 48-52 (1978); Tsitologiya, 10(3), 403-5 (1968); Zh. Obshch. Khim., 40(1), 195-202 (1970); Ann. Chim. (Rome), 65(5-6), 305-14 (1975); Journal of the Chinese Chemical Society (Taipei), 45(1), 209-211 (1998); Rev. Roum. Chim., 33(4), 377-83 (1988); Text. Res. J. (1984), 54(2), 105-7; Chim. Ind. (Milan), 56(9), 600-3 (1974); Khim. Tekhnol., 22(5), 548-53 (1979); Ger. Monatsh. Chem., 106(3), 643-8 (1975); MRL Bull. Res. Dev., 6(2), 21-7 (1992); Lihua Jianyan, Huaxue Fence, 29(4), 233-4 (1993); Dyes Pigm., 19(1), 69-79 (1992); Dyes Pigm., 11(3), 163-72 (1989).
In addition to the presence on at least one of the two chromephores of an ammonium group bearing a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C10-C30 aliphatic chain, as defined above, according to one advantageous variant, A and/or A′ of formulae (I) contain at least one cationic radical borne by or included in at least one of the chromophores. Preferably, said cationic radical is a quaternary ammonium; more preferentially, the cationic charge is endocyclic.
These cationic radicals are, for example, a cationic radical:
Mention may be made of the hydrazono cationic chromophores of formulae (II) and (III′), and the azo cationic chromophores (IV), (IV′), (V) and (V′) below:
(*)-Het+-C(Ra)═N—N(Rb)—Ar,Q− (II)
Q−,Het+-C(Ra)=N—N(Rb)—Ar′-(*), (II′)
(*)-Het+-N(Ra)—N═C(Rb)—Ar,Q− (III)
Q−,Het+-N(Ra)—N═C(Rb)—Ar′-(*), (III′)
(*)-Het+-N═N—Ar,Q− (IV)
Q−,Het+-N═N—Ar′-(*), (IV′)
(*)-Ar+—N═N—Ar″,Q− (V)
Q−,Ar+—N═N—Ar″-(*) (V′)
formulae (II) to (V′) with:
In particular, mention may be made of the azo and hydrazono chromophores bearing an endocyclic cationic charge of formulae (II) to (IV′) as defined above. More particularly those of formulae (II) to (IV′) derived from the dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954. Preferentially the following chromophores:
in which formulae (III-1) and (IV-1):
Particularly, the chromophores (II-1) and (IV-1) are derived from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or derivatives thereof:
with:
with:
As examples of dyes of the invention, mention may be made of the disulfide dyes chosen from formulae (V) to (XII) and the thiol or protected-thiol dyes chosen from formulae (V′) to (XII′) below:
in which formulae (V) to (XII) and (V′) to (XII′):
represents an aryl or heteroaryl group fused to the imidazolium or phenyl ring; or alternatively is absent from the imidazolium or phenyl ring; in particular, when the ring is present, the ring is a benzo; preferentially is absent from the imidazolium or phenyl ring;
In particular, the dyes of formula (I) are chosen from disulfide, thiol or thiol-protected azo chromophore dyes, preferably chosen from formulae (V) and (V′), as defined above, preferably with Ra and R′a, which are identical, representing a linear or branched, more preferentially linear, (C10-C30)alkyl group.
According to one preferred mode of the invention, the dyes of formula (I) are chosen from disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol dyes chosen from formulae (XIII) to (XIII′) below:
salts thereof with organic or mineral acids, optical isomers and geometrical isomers thereof, and solvates such as hydrates;
in which formulae (XIII) to (XIII′):
is as defined above; preferentially is absent from the imidazolium or phenyl ring;
According to one particular mode of the invention, the dyes of the invention belong to formula (XIII) or (XIII′) which bear an azo group linking the (benzo)imidazolium part to the phenyl ortho or para to the pyridinium, i.e. in the 2′-4, 4-2′, 2′-4 and 4-2′ position, preferably in the 2′-4 and 4-2′ para position.
As examples of disulfide, thiol and protected-thiol direct dyes of formula (I) of the invention, mention may be made of those having the following chemical structures:
with An−, M′, which may be identical or different, preferentially identical, representing anionic counterions; more particularly, the anionic counterion is chosen from halides such as chloride, alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate and mesylate; Y is as defined above, and preferably represents
1.1.5 the Cosmetically Acceptable Organic or Mineral Acid Salt and Counterion of the Dyes of the Invention:
an “organic or mineral acid salt” is more particularly chosen from a salt derived from i) hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O)2OH such as methanesulfonic acid and ethanesulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar—S(O)2OH such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) citric acid; vii) succinic acid; viii) tartaric acid; ix) lactic acid; x) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-O—S(O)OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; xi) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; xii) phosphoric acid H3PO4; xiii) acetic acid CH3C(O)OH; xiv) triflic acid CF3SO3H; and xv) tetrafluoroboric acid HBF4;
an “anionic counterion” is an anion or an anionic group associated with the cationic charge of the dye; more particularly, the anionic counterion is chosen from: i) halides such as chloride or bromide; ii) nitrates; iii) sulfonates, including C1-C6 alkylsulfonates: Alk-S(O)2O-such as methanesulfonate or mesylate and ethanesulfonate; iv) arylsulfonates: Ar—S(O)2O-such as benzenesulfonate and toluenesulfonate or tosylate; v) citrate; vi) succinate; vii) tartrate; viii) lactate; ix) alkyl sulfates: Alk-O—S(O)O— such as methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; x) aryl sulfates: Ar—O—S(O)O— such as benzene sulfate and toluene sulfate; xi) alkoxy sulfates: Alk-O—S(O)2O— such as methoxy sulfate and ethoxy sulfate; xii) aryloxy sulfates: Ar—O—S(O)2O—; xiii) phosphate; xiv) acetate; xv) triflate; and xvi) borates such as a tetrafluoroborate.
Moreover, the addition salts that may be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with a cosmetically acceptable base such as basifying agents as defined below, for instance alkali metal hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
1.2. Preparation of the Direct Dyes Bearing a Disulfide or Thiol Function of the Invention:
The disulfide, thiol and protected-thiol dyes are prepared according to conventional methods known by those skilled in the art, in particular using the methods described in applications WO 2009/034059, FR 290780, EP 1 647 580, EP 2 004 759, WO 2007/110541, WO 2007/110540, WO 2007/110539, WO 2007/110538, WO 2007/110537, WO 2007/110536, WO 2007/110535, WO 2007/110534, WO 2007/110533, WO 2007/110532, WO 2007/110531, EP 2 070 988 and WO 2009/040354
These compounds can be obtained using the similar preparation processes described in the books Advanced Organic Chemistry, “Reactions, Mechanisms and Structures”, J. March, 4th Ed, John Wiley & Sons, 1992, T. W. Greene “Protective Groups in Organic Synthesis” or “Color Chemistry”, H Zollinger, 3rd Ed, Wiley VCH.
It is in particular possible to prepare the disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol dyes of the invention (I) as defined above using two equivalents of reagents comprising a chromophore and at least one nucleofugal group such as halogeno (a) and one equivalent of amino disulfide compound (b)
with Hal representing a nucleofugal group such as halogeno, (poly)halogeno(C1-C4)alkoxy, (poly)halogeno(C1-C4)sulfoxy, X, X′, p, p′, Csat and C′sat being as defined for the compound (I), R and R′ representing a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (C1-C4)alkyl group; A representing a chromophore as defined above for (I) or else A represents a chromophore comprising a nucleofugal group as defined, which reacts with one or two equivalents of aminoalkylene followed by an alkylation reaction using for example (C10-C30)alkyl halide, preferably A represents a hydrazono cationic chromophore of formulae (II) and (III′), or azo cationic chromophore (IV), (IV′), (V) and (V′) as defined above.
These reactions are preferably carried out in a polar protic solvent, in particular at the solvent reflux; preferably, the solvent is an alcohol such as ethanol.
According to another particular embodiment, the disulfide dyes of the invention are obtained by a divergent method: the first step consists in preparing the disulfide reagent (c) onto which will be grafted a heteroaryl substituted with at least one (C1-C6)alkyl group such as a pyridine substituted with a hydrazino group (d) which in turn reacts with an aryl(thio)aldehyde or aryl(thio)ketone reagent comprising at least one group bearing a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C10-C30 aliphatic chain; with elimination of H2O or H2S so as to give a disulfide dye bearing a hydrazono chromophore (I′), and also optical and geometric isomers thereof, belonging to formula (I) according to the invention:
represents a heteroaryl group comprising at least one nitrogen atom substituted with at least one (C1-C6)alkyl group, preferably methyl;
represents a cationic heteroaryl group substituted with at least one (C1-C6)alkyl group, preferably methyl, and comprising at least one ammonium;
According to one variant, the disulfide compound has an alkylene linker which is uninterrupted between the chromophore and the disulfide group via a heteroatom or an —N(R)—, —N+(R)(R)-, —O—, —S—, —CO—, —SO2— group or a combination thereof with R as defined above and can be prepared according to the following synthesis scheme:
represents a cationic heteroaryl group comprising at least one ammonium.
According to another particular embodiment, the disulfide dyes of the invention are obtained by a convergent method: the first step consists in preparing the azo chromophore reagent (f) comprising a leaving group GP such as halide, mesylate or tosylate, a (hetero)aromatic part Ar and a heteroaryl group comprising at least one nitrogen atom such as a (benzo)imidazolyl from a (hetero)aromatic compound (e) comprising at least one GP and an amino group in the presence i) of acid, in particular a mixture of organic and inorganic acid, preferably in a mixture with a carboxylic acid and of hydrochloric acid, and of MNO2 with M representing an alkali or alkaline-earth metal preferably in water and at a temperature between 0° C. et 5° C., then ii) of a base such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, then iii) of a heteroaryl comprising at least one nitrogen atom, such as (benzo)imidazole, preferably imidazole. The compound (f) can then be alkylated in particular with Ra a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C10-C30 aliphatic chain using a reagent Ra-Q with Q representing a leaving group such as halide so as to give the intermediate (g), the latter can then react with the diamino disulfide reagent (b) so as to give the azo compound (I″″) according to the invention:
as defined above;
represents a heteroaryl group comprising at least one nitrogen atom.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the process for preparing the compounds of formulae (Va) and (V′) consists in reacting an aniline substituted with an alkoxy or benzyloxy group (h) with i) an acid, preferably a mineral acid such as hydrochloric acid or a carboxylic acid such as acetic acid, in the presence of a nitrogenous compound MNO2 with M representing a cationic counterion such as Na or K, then ii) with an organic or mineral base, preferably a mineral base, such as sodium hydroxide, then iii) an imidazolyl derivative, optionally fused with a (hetero)aryl group, preferably a benzo group, so as to give the azo compound (i); the latter reacting with at least 2 molar equivalents of an alkylating agent such as Ra-Q with Ra and Q as defined above, so as to give the compound (j);
with Ra, Rb, R′b, R′g, Rh, R′h, R1, R2, R3, R4, R′1, R′2, R′3, R′4, Y, m, m′, n, n′, Ta, Tb, Q and
being as defined above, and R∘ representing a (C1-C6)alkyl, (hetero)aryl or benzyl group.
According to one embodiment, the process for synthesizing the compounds of formula (I), more particularly (Xa), used in the invention can consist in carrying out the following steps:
with Rh, R′h, G′, R″g, R′″g, m, n, m′, n′, Ta, Tb, R1, R2, R3, R4, R′1, R′2, R′3 and R′4 as defined above and Q represents a leaving group such as halide, tosylate or mesylate and Q− represents an anionic counterion as defined above.
According to this process, a first step of diazotization of an aminopyridine or quinoline (a) is carried out in a manner known to those skilled in the art. They can be obtained from the references described in Color Chemistry, H Zollinger, 3rd Edn, Wiley VCH, pages 166-169.
Thus, said amine is for example brought into contact with phosphoric acid and tert-butylnitrite. Usually, this reaction is carried out at a temperature between −20° C. and 30° C.; preferably between −10° C. and 20° C., at a pH of between 0 and 12.
Conventionally, the reaction is carried out in the presence of a suitable solvent, among which mention may be made of water, alcohols, in particular aliphatic alcohols comprising up to 4 carbon atoms, organic acids, for example a carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid comprising up to 10 carbon atoms, and/or mineral acids of the hydrochloric or sulfuric acid type.
Once the reaction has been carried out, coupling of the product obtained with a compound of the aniline type (b) is carried out.
Conventionally, this reaction is carried out in the presence of a solvent which may be that of the preceding step.
The temperature is conventionally between −15° C. and 30° C.; preferably between −10° C. and 20° C., at a pH preferably of between 0 and 8.
The product may be isolated via the techniques known to those skilled in the art (precipitation, evaporation, etc.).
In a final step, the resulting product (c) is then dimerized in a manner known to those skilled in the art. Thus, said resulting product c) is brought into contact with a double alkylating agent having a disulfide unit (d) in the presence of a polar or non-polar aprotic solvent such as acetonitrile, dimethylformamide, toluene, 1,3-dimethyl-2-oxohexahydropyrimidine (DMPU) or N-methylpyrrolidone. Usually, the temperature is between 10 and 180° C., preferably between 20° C. and 140° C.
The double alkylating agent having a disulfide unit (d) can be prepared according to the methods described in the literature and which are known to those skilled in the art:
According to another embodiment, the process for synthesizing the compounds used in the invention can consist in carrying out the following steps:
with Rh, R′h, G′, R″g, R′″g, m, n, m′, n′, Ta, Tb, R1, R2, R3, R4, R′1, R′2, R′3, R′4, Q, Q− and (Xa) as defined above and Hal represents a halogen atom, preferably Cl or Br.
According to this process, a first step of alkylation of a pyridine or quinoline compound (a) is carried out in a manner known to those skilled in the art. The conditions for carrying out such a step have been summarized previously.
Once the reaction has been carried out, a nucleophilic substitution of the product obtained (e) with a compound of arylhydrazine type (f) is carried out. Conventionally, this reaction is carried out in the presence of a solvent which may be that of the preceding step.
The temperature is conventionally between −15° C. and 60° C.; preferably between 0° C. and 40° C., at a pH preferably of between 4 and 9.
The product may be isolated via the techniques known to those skilled in the art (precipitation, evaporation, etc.).
Once the reaction has been carried out, the hydrazine derivative (g) is oxidized by addition of an oxidizing agent or by simple addition of air. Conventionally, this reaction is carried out in the presence of a solvent which may be that of the preceding step. The temperature is conventionally between −15° C. and 60° C.; preferably between 0° C. and 40° C., at a pH preferably of between 4 and 9. The product (Xa) may be isolated via the techniques known to those skilled in the art (precipitation, evaporation, preparative chromatography, etc.).
According to another embodiment, the process for synthesizing the compounds used in the invention can consist in carrying out the following steps:
with Rh, R′h, G′, R″g, R′″g, m, n, Ta, R1, R2, R3, R4, Q, Q− and Y as defined above.
According to this process, a first step of quaternization of a non-cationic azo pyridine or quinoline compound) is carried out in the usual manner with a thiol or protected-thiol compound (g) in the presence of a polar or non-polar, protic or aprotic solvent such as dichloromethane, toluene, ethyl acetate or water at spontaneous or alkaline pH, so as to give the compound according to invention (X′). This quaternization step is known to those skilled in the art. Usually, the temperature is between 10 and 180° C., preferably between 20° C. and 100° C.
Once the reaction has been carried out, deprotection, if Y is other than hydrogen, of the thiol group and then oxidation of the thiol are carried out. The conditions for carrying out such a step have been summarized below. Usually, the temperature is between 10 and 180° C., preferably between 20° C. and 100° C.
This process makes it possible to obtain, during the first step, a dye according to the invention bearing a protected-thiol unit (for which x=y=1), during the thiol deprotection step, a dye bearing a thiol unit (for which x=y=1 and Y represents a hydrogen atom) or a thiolate unit (for which Y represents a metal, an ammonium or a phosphonium), and finally a disulfide dye (for which x=2 and y=0)
According to another embodiment, the process for synthesizing the compounds used in the invention can consist in carrying out the following steps:
with Rh, R′h, G′, R″g, R′″g, m, n, Ta, R1, R2, R3, R4, Y, Q, Q− and (X′) as defined above.
According to this process, a first step of quaternization of a non-cationic azo pyridine or quinoline compound c is carried out in the usual manner with a compound (h) in the presence of a polar or non-polar, protic or aprotic solvent such as dichloromethane, toluene, ethyl acetate or water at spontaneous or alkaline pH, so as to give the intermediate (i. Q represents a leaving group such as tosylate, mesylate and halide, in particular chloride or bromide.
This quaternization step is known to those skilled in the art. Usually, the temperature is between 10° C. and 180° C., preferably between 20° C. and 100° C. The quaternization is followed by a nucleophilic substitution with a reagent YSH.
Once the reaction has been carried out, a nucleophilic substitution of the intermediate is obtained (i with a compound of type Y—SH (Y is as previously defined) is carried out. Usually, this reaction is carried out in the presence of a polar or non-polar, protic or aprotic solvent such as dichloromethane, toluene, ethyl acetate, water or alcohols. The temperature is conventionally between −15° C. and 60° C.; preferably between 0° C. and 50° C., at a pH preferably of between 7 and 9.
The product may be isolated via the techniques known to those skilled in the art (precipitation, evaporation, etc.).
Once the reaction has been carried out, the compound (X′) can be deprotected and then oxidized so as to give (Xb) as previously defined.
According to another embodiment, a disulfide/thiol dye according to the invention can be obtained by nucleophilic substitution of an amine HNR2R3(j) on an aromatic nucleus such as phenyl of an azo dye bearing a pyridinium or quinolinium unit (X′), bearing, in the ortho- or para-position with respect to said phenyl, a nucleofugal group, for example a halide or an alkoxy:
with Rh, R′h, R″g, R′″g, m, n, Ta, R1, R2, R3, R4, Y, Q, Q−, Re and Rd as defined above and ALK represents a linear or branched (C1-C6)alkyl group such as methyl.
Once the reaction has been carried out, the compound (X′b) can be deprotected and then oxidized as defined above so as to give (Xc).
This reaction is carried out in a manner known to those skilled in the art, in a polar solvent, preferably a protic polar solvent, such as alcohols. The precursor bearing the nucleofugal group can be easily obtained according to the first steps of the processes previously described.
If the process has recourse to diazotization of an aminopyridinium or aminoquinolinium followed by coupling, the coupler chosen may be a phenol, that can be subsequently alkylated according to conditions known to those skilled in the art.
with Rh, R′h, R″g, R′″g, m, n, Ta, R1, R2, R3, R4, Q, Q−, Y, Rc, Rd and ALK as defined above.
According to another embodiment, the process for synthesizing the compounds of formula (VI) used in the invention can consist in carrying out the following steps:
with Rh, R′h, Rg, R′g, m, n, m′, n′, Ta, Tb, R1, R2, R3, R4, R′1, R′2, R′3, R′4, Q, et Q− as defined above.
According to this process, a first step of diazotization of an amino pyridine or quinoline is carried out in a manner known to those skilled in the art. The conditions for carrying out such a step have been summarized previously.
Once the reaction has been carried out, coupling of the product obtained with a compound of the disulfide type (m) is carried out so as to give the compound (n).
Conventionally, this reaction is carried out in the presence of a solvent which may be that of the preceding step.
The temperature is conventionally between −15° C. and 30° C.; preferably between −10° C. and 20° C., at a pH preferably of between 0 and 8.
The product (n) may be isolated via the techniques known to those skilled in the art (precipitation, evaporation, etc.).
The product (n) is then quaternized in the usual way (see for example Synth. Comm. 2005, 35(23), 3021-3026; EP1386916; Synthesis, 1986, 5, 382-383; Liebigs Annalen der Chemie, 1987, 1, 77-79); Bull. Chem. Soc. Jap. 1977, 50(6), 1510-1512; J. Org. Chem. 1979, 44(4), 638-639. For example, the product obtained can be brought into contact with an alkyl sulfate such as dimethyl sulfate, diethyl sulfate or dipropyl sulfate or an alkyl halide or alkylaryl halide such as iodomethane, iodoethane, 2-bromoethanol or benzyl bromide in the presence of a polar or non-polar, protic or aprotic solvent such as dichloromethane, toluene, ethyl acetate or water at spontaneous or alkaline pH. The product obtained can also be brought into contact with dialkyl carbonate such as dimethyl carbonate or diethyl carbonate in the presence of a base. Usually, the temperature is between 10 and 180° C., preferably between 20° C. and 100° C.
According to another embodiment, the process for synthesizing the compounds used in the invention can consist in carrying out the following steps:
with Rh, R′h, Rg, R′g, m, n, Ta, R1, R2, R3, R4, Y, Q, and Q− as defined above.
According to this process, a first step of diazotization of an amino pyridine or quinoline is carried out in a manner known to those skilled in the art, so as to give the compound (p).
Once the reaction has been carried out, coupling of the product obtained (p) with a compound of the thiol or protected-thiol type (o) is carried out so as to give the compound (q).
Once the reaction has been carried out, if Y represents a protective group, deprotection is carried out followed by oxidation of the thiol, and if Y represents a hydrogen atom the oxidation is carried out directly, so as to give the compound according to the invention (VIb). Usually, the temperature is between 10 and 180° C., preferably between 20° C. and 100° C.
The resulting product is then quaternized in the usual way.
The conditions for carrying out all the steps of this process have been summarized previously. At each step of this synthesis, the intermediate, thus the final product, may be isolated via the techniques known to those skilled in the art (precipitation, evaporation, etc.).
According to another embodiment, the process for synthesizing the compounds used in the invention can consist in carrying out the following steps:
with Rh, R′h, Rg, R′g, m, n, Ta, R1, R2, R3, R4, Y, Q, and Q− as defined above.
According to this process, the azo compound is prepared by reaction of a nitroso compound (r) and of an aromatic amine (s) in a polar solvent such as Ac2O. This process is known to those skilled in the art and described in J. Hetero. Chem 21(2), 501-3, 1984. The conditions for carrying the other steps of the synthesis have been summarized previously.
A variant of this synthesis is the use of a disulfide compound (t) with 2 equivalents of nitroso reagent (r):
with Rh, R′h, Rg, R′g, m, n, Ta, R1, R2, R3, R4, Y, Q, and Q− as defined above.
A variant of this synthesis route is the use of a hydroxylamine compound (r′):
which can react with (s) or (ti as defined above, so as to also give the compounds (q) and (VIb) as defined above. This process is known to those skilled in the art and also described in J. Hetero. Chem 21(2), 501-3, 1984.
According to another embodiment, the process for synthesizing the compounds used in the invention can consist in carrying out the following steps:
with Rh, R′h, Rg, R′g, m, n, m′, n′, Ta, Tb, R1, R2, R3, R4, R′1, R′2, R′3, R′4, Q, and Q− as defined above.
According to another embodiment, the process for synthesizing the compounds used in the invention can consist in carrying out the following steps:
with Rh, R′h, Rg, R′g, m, n, m′, n′, Ta, Tb, R1, R2, R3, R4, R′1, R′2, R′3, R′4, Q, and Q− as defined above. represents a nucleophilic group;
represents an electrophilic group; Σ the bond generated after an attack of the nucleophile on the electrophile; the combination of the group—Σ—is contained by the bond Ta or Tb as defined above. By way of example, the covalent bonds Σ that may be generated are listed in the table below, starting with condensation of electrophiles with nucleophiles:
u
By way of non-limiting indication, a dye with a link containing carboxamido groups is synthesized by reacting an azo compound containing a nucleophilic amino group with a compound containing two acyl halide groups.
with Rh, R′h, Rg, R′g, m, n, m′, n′, Q, et Q− as defined above and Hal represents a halogen atom, preferably Cl or Br.
This reaction is carried out in a manner known to those skilled in the art, in a polar solvent, preferably alcohols in the presence of a base such as triethylamine. The final product can be isolated by techniques known to those skilled in the art (precipitation, evaporation, etc.) and the precursors can be easily obtained according to the first steps of the processes previously described.
According to another embodiment, a disulfide/thiol dye according to the invention can be obtained by aromatic nucleophilic substitution on an azo dye bearing a pyridinium or quinolinium unit bearing a nucleofugal group, for example a halogen or an alkyloxy, with an amino thiol or protected-thiol reagent (v) or an amino disulfide reagent (u) (for example cysteamine, cysteine):
with Rh, R′h, Rg, R′g, m, n, m′, n′, Ta, Tb, R1, R2, R3, R4, R′1, R′2, R′3, R′4, Y, Q, and Q− as defined above.
This reaction is carried out in a manner known to those skilled in the art, in a polar solvent, preferably a protic polar solvent, such as (C1-C6)alkanols, in particular ethanol. The precursor bearing the nucleofugal group ALK-O—, with ALK as defined above, can be easily obtained according to the first steps of the processes previously described. If the process has recourse to diazotization of an aminopyridine or aminoquinoline followed by coupling, the coupler chosen may be a phenol, that can be subsequently alkylated, in particular methylated, according to conditions known to those skilled in the art.
The protected-thiol dye compounds (I) in which Y is other than a hydrogen atom can be synthesized in two steps. The first step consists in preparing the non-protected-thiol dye (I-H) according to methods known to those skilled in the art, for instance “Thiols and organic Sulfides”, “Thiocyanates and Isothiocyanates, organic”, Ullmann's Encyclopedia, Wiley-VCH, Weinheim, 2005. Furthermore the second step consists in protecting the thiol function according to conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, so as to give the protected-thiol dyes of formula (I-Y). By way of example, to protect the thiol function —SH of the thiol dye, it is possible to use the methods in the books “Protective Groups in Organic Synthesis”, T. W. Greene, John Wiley & Sons ed., NY, 1981, pp. 193-217; and “Protecting Groups”, P. Kocienski, Thieme, 3rd ed., 2005, chap. 5.
This method can be illustrated by the method consisting i) in generating thiol dyes of formulae (I-H) and (I′—H) by reduction of a heterocyclic two-chromophore dye bearing a disulfide function —S—S—, such as (I-S), and ii) in protecting, according to conventional methods, said thiol function of (I-H) and (I′—H) with the reagent (u) Y′R in order to obtain the protected-thiol dyes of formulae (I-Y) and (I′-Y). The thiol compounds (I-H) and (I′—H) can also be metallized with an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal Met* so as to give the thiolate dye of formulae (I-Mét*) and (I′-Mét*).
with A, A′, X, X′, p, p′, Csat and C′sat as defined above, Y′ representing a thiol-function-protecting group; Met* representing an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, particularly sodium or potassium, it being understood that, when the metal is an alkaline-earth metal, 2 chromophores bearing a thiolate function —S− may be combined with 1 Metal2+; R represents a nucleofugal leaving group, for instance mesylate, tosylate, triflate or halide.
Reference may be made to the book Advanced Organic Chemistry, “Reactions, Mechanisms and Structures”, J. March, 4th Ed, John Wiley & Sons, 1992 or T. W. Greene “Protective Groups in Organic Synthesis”, for further details on the operating conditions implemented for the processes mentioned above.
The thiol dyes formed can be converted into —S Y′ protected-thiol dyes by protection of the thiol —SH using conventional protective groups. The thiol dyes are metallized by likewise using conventional methods known to those skilled in the art, such as those described in Advanced Organic Chemistry, Reactions, Mechanisms and Structures”, J. March, 4th Ed, John Wiley & Sons, N Y, 1992.
The protected-thiol dyes can be deprotected via conventional routes, such as those described in the books “Protective Groups in Organic Synthesis”, T. W. Greene, John Wiley & Sons ed., NY, 1981; “Protecting Groups”, P. Kocienski, Thieme, 3rd ed., 2005.
The starting reagents are commercially available or obtainable via conventional methods known to those skilled in the art. By way of example, mention may be made of the document U.S. Pat. No. 4,579,949.
1.3. The Composition of the Dyeing Process
The dye(s) bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function in particular of formula (I) as defined above may be applied directly to keratin fibres in powder form or may be in a liquid composition.
The dye composition that is useful then contains, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, an amount of the dyes bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function as defined above in particular of formula (I) as defined above, generally of between 0.001% and 30% relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the amount of dyes bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function as defined above, in particular of formula (I), is between 0.01% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. By way of example, the dye(s) are in an amount of between 0.01% and 2%.
Preferably, the composition of the dyeing process of the invention is in liquid form and contains one or more cationic direct dyes of formula (I) bearing a disulfide function as defined above.
The Medium:
The medium that is suitable for dyeing, also known as the dye support, is a cosmetic medium generally formed from water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents or a mixture of organic solvents.
The term “organic solvent” is intended to mean an organic substance capable of dissolving another substance without chemically modifying it.
1.2.1 the Organic Solvents:
Mention may be made, as organic solvent, for example, of lower C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols and polyol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
The solvents are preferably present in proportions preferably of between 1% and 40% by weight approximately and even more preferably between 5% and 30% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition.
1.2.2 the Adjuvants:
The composition comprising the dye(s) bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function in particular of formula (I) as defined above of the process of the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dye compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic non-thiol and siliceous polymers or mixtures thereof, mineral or organic thickeners, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetrants, sequestrants, fragrances, buffers, dispersants, conditioning agents, for instance volatile or non-volatile, modified or unmodified silicones, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents and opacifiers.
The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.01% and 20% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.
Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the dye composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
1.2.3 the Additional Dyes:
The composition comprising the dye(s) bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function in particular of formula (I) as defined above of the process of the invention may also contain one or more additional direct dyes other than the disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol direct dyes of formula (I) according to the invention. These direct dyes are chosen, for example, from those conventionally used in direct dyeing, among which may be mentioned all the commonly used aromatic and/or non-aromatic dyes, such as neutral, acidic or cationic nitrobenzene direct dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic azo direct dyes, natural direct dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic quinone and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, azine, triarylmethane or indoamine direct dyes, methines, styryls, porphyrins, metalloporphyrins, phthalocyanines, methinecyanines and fluorescent dyes.
Mention may be made, among the natural direct dyes, of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechualdehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin or orceins. Use may also be made of extracts or decoctions comprising these natural dyes and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts.
According to the invention, the additional direct dye(s) used according to the invention preferably represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition comprising the dye(s) bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function in particular of formula (I) as defined above and even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight approximately.
The composition comprising the dye(s) bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function in particular of formula (I) as defined above of the process of the invention may also contain one or more oxidation bases and/or one or more couplers conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres.
Among the oxidation bases, mention may be made of para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts thereof.
Mention may in particular be made, among these couplers, of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.
The coupler(s) are each generally present in an amount of between 0.001% and 10% by weight and preferably between 0.005% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition.
The oxidation base(s) present in the dye composition are each generally present in an amount of between 0.001% and 10% by weight and preferably between 0.005% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition.
In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from the salts of addition with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the salts of addition with a base, such as alkali metal hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the process of the invention contains at least one oxidation base and optionally at least one coupler as defined above.
The process of the invention may also use another composition that comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents. The term “chemical oxidizing agent” is intended to mean chemical oxidizing agents other than atmospheric oxygen.
The chemical oxidizing agent may be chosen, for example, from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates such as sodium bromate, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, and enzymes such as peroxidases and two-electron or four-electron oxidoreductases, for instance uricases, and four-electron oxidases such as laccases.
The use of hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred.
The content of oxidizing agent is generally between 1% and 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition and preferably between 1% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
1.2.4 the pH:
The pH of the composition comprising the dye(s) bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function in particular of formula (I) as defined above according to the invention is generally between 2 and 12 approximately and preferably between 3 and 11 approximately. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents regularly used in the dyeing of keratin fibres or alternatively using conventional buffer systems.
The pH of the composition is preferentially between 6 and 9.
Among the acidifying agents that may be mentioned, for example, are mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid or sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
Among the basifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, and also derivatives thereof, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the compounds of formula (a) below:
in which Wa is a linear or branched, preferentially linear, divalent (C1-C10)alkylene group, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as O, S and NRa1 and/or optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; Ra1, Ra2, Ra3 and Ra4, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical; preferentially, Wa represents a propylene group.
1.2.5 Forms of the Composition:
The dye composition comprising the dye(s) bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function in particular of formula (I) as defined above may be in various galenical forms, such as in the form of a liquid, a lotion, a cream or a gel, or in any other form that is suitable for dyeing keratin fibres. They may also be conditioned under pressure in an aerosol can in the presence of a propellant and form a mousse.
1.4. Mode of Application of the Dyes (I) Optionally in the Presence of a Heat Source
A subject of the invention is also a process for dyeing keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres such as the hair, using one or more dyes of formula (I) as defined above.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the process for dyeing keratin materials comprises i) the application to said materials, in particular keratin fibres such as the hair, of one or more dyes bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function of formula (I) as defined above and ii) a heat source such as steam and/or an iron for straightening said fibres.
Process for treating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the following steps:
i) applying to the hair fibres a dye composition comprising, in a cosmetic medium, one or more dyes bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function of formula (I) as defined above,
ii) increasing the temperature of the hair fibres to a temperature of between 50 and 280° C., steps i) and ii) possibly being carried out simultaneously or sequentially.
After applying the dye composition, and before increasing the temperature of the hair fibres, said composition can be left on, generally for 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes. The process according to the invention comprises, preferably after the step of applying the dye composition, a step of increasing the temperature of the hair fibres to a temperature between 100 and 250° C. Preferably, the step of heating the keratin fibres is carried out at a temperature ranging from 150 to 220° C., preferably ranging from 160° C. to 220° C., preferentially ranging from 160° C. to 200° C., in particular ranging from 170° C. to 190° C.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the temperature is increased by means of an iron.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “iron” is intended to mean a device for heating keratin fibres which places said fibres and the heating device in contact.
The irons that can be used may be curling irons, straightening irons, crimping irons or steam irons.
As examples of irons that may be used in the process according to the invention, mention may be made of any type of flat or round irons, and in particular, in a non-limiting manner, those described in patents U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,103,145, 4,308,878, 5,983,903, 5,957,140, 5,494,058 and 5,046,516.
The end of the iron which comes into contact with the keratin fibres generally has two flat surfaces. These two surfaces may be made of metal or ceramic. In particular, these two surfaces may be smooth or crimped or curved.
The iron may be applied by successive separate strokes lasting a few seconds or by gradual movement or sliding along the tresses of keratin fibres, in particular of hair.
In particular, the iron is applied in the process according to the invention by a continuous movement from the root to the tip of the hair, in one or more passes, in particular in two to twenty passes. The duration of each pass of the iron may last from 2 seconds to 1 minute.
Preferably, the iron is applied in the process according to the invention by a continuous movement from the root to the tip of the hair, in one or more passes.
The process according to the invention may also comprise an additional step of totally or partially pre-drying the hair fibres before the step of increasing the temperature, so as to prevent significant amounts of steam being given off, which might burn the stylist's hands and the subject's scalp. This pre-drying step can be carried out for example by means of a dryer, or of a hood at a temperature below 50° C. or else by drying in the open air.
The temperature increase may be simultaneous with the application of the composition according to the invention.
Preferably, the increase in temperature follows the application of the composition according to the invention.
The above embodiments can be implemented using a device comprising a heat source combined with a reservoir of cosmetic composition containing an aqueous composition such as water. By way of example, such a conditioning and application device may comprise:
According to one embodiment of the invention, the treatment according to the invention is combined with an existing treatment of the fibre.
Thus, in a first step, permanent-waving or oxidation dyeing or bleaching or shampooing or a styling product or alkaline relaxing can be applied and, in a second step, the described process of the invention can be applied. The durability of the first treatment is thus reinforced.
According to one embodiment, the process according to the invention is carried out on natural keratin fibres, in particular natural hair.
According to one embodiment, the process according to the invention is carried out on damaged keratin fibres, in particular damaged hair. As indicated previously, the term “damaged hair” is intended to mean dry or coarse or brittle or split or limp hair.
In other words, the treatment process according to the invention is preferably performed on keratin fibres, in particular sensitized hair, such as bleached, relaxed or permanent-waved fibres.
The process according to the invention may be carried out on keratin fibres, in particular hair, which is dry or wet. Preferentially, the process is carried out on dry keratin fibres, in particular dry hair.
After application to the keratin fibres of the compound(s) (I) or of a cosmetic composition containing the same, and before performing the step of heating the keratin fibres, the compound(s) (I) or the composition containing the same may be left on for a time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, preferably ranging from 2 to 50 minutes and preferentially ranging from 5 to 45 minutes. The leave-on period may take place at a temperature ranging from 15° C. to 45° C., preferably at ambient temperature (25° C.).
The cosmetic composition described previously is advantageously applied to the keratin fibres in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10 grams and preferably from 0.2 to 5 grams of composition per gram of keratin fibres.
After application of the cosmetic composition to the keratin fibres, the latter may be wrung out to remove the excess composition or washed with water or with a shampoo.
The treatment process according to the invention may be performed before, during and/or after an additional process of cosmetic treatment of the keratin fibres, such as a process for temporarily shaping, such as shaping with curlers, a curling iron or a straightening iron, or a process for durably shaping, permanent-waving or relaxing the keratin fibres. Preferably, the dyeing process of the invention implements a post-treatment step consisting in applying a heat source, preferably using an iron for straightening the keratin fibres and/or steam, in particular originating from a steam iron, i.e. from a device which combines steam and a straightening iron.
In particular, the treatment process according to the invention may be carried out on damaged keratin fibres. The treatment process according to the invention is preferably carried out on sensitized keratin fibres such as bleached, relaxed or permanent-waved fibres.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the step of applying or treating keratin fibres with steam is carried out extemporaneously with that of the application or treatment of the keratin fibres with one or more dyes bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function of formula (I) as defined above.
According to another particular embodiment of the process of the invention, the treatment of fibres with one or more dyes bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function of formula (I) as defined above and the step of treating the keratin fibres is performed in two stages. In a first step, the keratin fibres are treated with one or more dyes bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function of formula (I) as defined above, and then, after a leave-on time, step ii) of straightening the keratin fibres with an iron is carried out without intermediate rinsing. In particular, the dye(s) bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function in particular of formula (I) as defined above are in a dye composition as defined above in liquid form (point 1.2). The leave-on time after application of the composition containing the dyes of formula (I) is set at between 5 minutes and 2 hours. Preferentially it is between 15 minutes and 1 hour, such as 30 minutes.
The application of one or more dyes bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function in particular of formula (I) as defined above is generally carried out at ambient temperature. It may, however, be carried out at temperatures ranging from 20 to 80° C. and preferentially between 20 and 60° C., and the keratin fibres are then subjected to a treatment with steam.
The fibres may be treated with an iron for straightening keratin fibres assisted with steam. These irons are those that may be obtained commercially or those of professionals.
Another means is to arrange the keratin fibres treated beforehand with at least one dye bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function in particular of formula (I) according to step i) as defined above, over a source of steam such as a kettle, a boiling water container or a steam iron, for example the commercially available irons such as Joico K-Pak ReconstRx Vapor Iron and Babyliss Pro230 steam.
The treatment time for the keratin fibres with the steam is between 5 minutes and 2 hours. Preferentially it is between 15 minutes and 1 hour, such as 30 minutes.
According to another process for dyeing keratin fibres, the composition that comprises at least one dye bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function in particular of formula (I) as defined above is an aqueous composition, this composition being applied to the hair followed by application of a straightening iron that generates steam in situ.
According to one variant of the process for dyeing keratin fibres, the composition that comprises at least one dye bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function in particular of formula (I) as defined above is applied to wet or moistened hair followed by application of a straightening iron that also generates steam in situ.
Preferentially, the process for dyeing keratin fibres does not use a reducing agent.
A treatment with a chemical oxidizing agent may optionally be combined as a post-treatment. Any type of oxidizing agent that is conventional in the field as described previously may be used. Thus, it may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, and also enzymes, among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricases, and 4-electron oxygenases such as laccases. The use of hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred. The duration of the optional post-treatment with an oxidizing agent is between 1 second and 40 minutes. It is preferably between 1 and 10 minutes.
Preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s), when they are present in the dyeing process of the invention, are in very mild concentrations, i.e. less than or equal to 5% by weight and preferentially 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture comprising the dye(s) bearing a disulfide, thiol or protected-thiol function in particular of formula (I) as defined above and the chemical oxidizing agent(s). According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the dyeing process does not involve any chemical oxidizing agent.
The application of the composition may be performed on dry hair or may be preceded by moistening of the hair.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
The direct thiol, protected-thiol or disulfide dyes of formula (I) that are useful in the present invention are compounds that may be prepared according to methods known to those skilled in the art, in particular from the methods described in patent applications WO 2009/034059, FR 290 780, EP 1 647 580, EP 2 004 759, WO 2007/110 541, WO 2007/110 540, WO 2007/110 539, WO 2007/110 538, WO 2007/110 537, WO 2007/110 536, WO 2007/110 535, WO 2007/110 534, WO 2007/110 533, WO 2007/110 532, WO 2007/110 531, EP 2 070 988 and WO 2009/040 354.
Example of the synthesis of a dye derivatives of disulfide (or thiol) fatty chain type:
Synthesis scheme:
Synthesis of Compound 1:
In a 250 ml three-necked flask equipped with a condenser, a thermometer, a nitrogen feed, a dropping funnel and a magnetic stirrer, 12.3 grams of 4-methoxyaniline (0.1 mol) were placed in 10 ml of acetic acid and 25 ml of 37% hydrochloric acid and 125 ml of water. The reaction medium was then cooled to 0° C. by means of an ice bath, then a solution of 7.6 grams (0.11 mol) of sodium nitrite dissolved in 25 ml of water was added dropwise, in such a way as to maintain a temperature of between 5° C. and 0° C. After 30 minutes of stirring, 3 grams of urea were added in order to eliminate the excess sodium nitrite, then the mixture was kept stirring for 20 minutes at 0° C.
A solution of 6.8 grams of imidazole (0.1 mol) dissolved in 125 ml of water was added dropwise, in such a way as to maintain the temperature below 5° C., and also a 40% sodium hydroxide solution was added dropwise in such a way as to maintain the pH of the reaction medium between 9 and 8.5. The coupling reaction was thus obtained after having maintained the reaction medium at 10° C.-1 5° C. for 2 hours.
The reaction medium was then concentrated until a precipitate was obtained, which was filtered off over sintered glass, washed with water and then not totally dried.
The product obtained was then recrystallized from a dichloromethane/tetrachloromethane (5/1) mixture so as to obtain the pure expected product.
The NMR and mass spectra are in accordance with the expected chemical structure.
Synthesis of Compound 2:
5.6 grams of compound 1 (0.0277 mol) were introduced into a 500 ml three-necked flask equipped with a condenser, a thermometer, a nitrogen feed and a magnetic stirrer, and then 4.5 grams of sodium acetate (0.0548 mol) and 100 ml of isopropyl acetate were added. 50 grams of bromohexadecane (0.164 mol) were then added and the reaction medium was then brought to reflux for 12 hours.
The progression of the reaction was monitored by thin-layer chromatography in order to monitor the disappearance of the starting product (compound 1) and the formation of the expected compound 2.
The mixture was allowed to return to ambient temperature and was then evaporated under reduced pressure. The residue was then taken up with acetone and the salts were then removed from the medium. This operation was performed 3 times. The acetone phase was again evaporated under reduced pressure, and then the residue was taken up with ethyl ether so as to cause the expected product to precipitate. A yellow powder was thus obtained after filtration and drying.
The NMR and mass spectra are in accordance with the expected chemical structure.
Synthesis of Compound 3:
5 grams of compound 2 (0.00683 mol) were introduced into a 100 ml three-necked flask equipped with a condenser, a thermometer, a nitrogen feed and a magnetic stirrer, and then 0.8 gram of cysteamine (0.01037 mol) and 100 ml of 2-propanol were added. The reaction medium was maintained under an argon stream and was then brought to a T of 60° C. The progression of the reaction was monitored by thin-layer chromatography in order to monitor the disappearance of the starting product (yellow spot) and the formation of the expected product (red spot).
The mixture was allowed to return to ambient temperature and was then evaporated under reduced pressure so as to sublimate the excess cysteamine involved. The medium was always kept under argon. A red powder was thus obtained after filtration and drying.
The NMR and mass spectra are in accordance with the expected chemical structure.
Synthesis of Compound 4:
0.77 gram of cystamine dihydrochloride (0.00342 mol) and 50 ml of 2-propanol were introduced into a 100 ml three-necked flask equipped with a condenser, a thermometer, a nitrogen feed and a magnetic stirrer. 0.7 gram of triethylamine (0.0069 mol) was then added and the mixture was kept stirring for 30 minutes at ambient temperature. 5 grams of compound 2 (0.00683 mol) were then added. The medium was then brought to reflux for 4 hours. The progression of the reaction was monitored by thin-layer chromatography in order to monitor the disappearance of the starting product (yellow spot) and the formation of the expected product (red spot).
The mixture was allowed to return to ambient temperature and was then evaporated under reduced pressure so as to obtain a red paste. This paste was subsequently dissolved in 50 ml of acetone, then cooled so as to cause the mineral salts (triethylamine hydrochloride) to precipitate and then again evaporated under reduced pressure. This operation was thus repeated 3 times, in order to eliminate the maximum amount of mineral salts.
Evaporation under reduced pressure was subsequently carried out so as to obtain a paste that was taken up with cold ethyl ether in order to cause the desired compound to precipitate.
The NMR and mass spectra are in accordance with the expected chemical structure.
Evaluation of the Compounds of the Invention with Regard to the Care and Repair of Keratin Fibres
Dyeing of the fibre+Long-lasting care of the hair fibre. Dyeing of the hair fibre and Repair of the surface condition of damaged hair, protection of the hair fibre with respect to high temperatures with long-lasting cosmetic effects.
The locks treated are locks of 2 grams of bleached Caucasian natural type which have a reducing solubility of 40; i.e. very damaged locks.
The products are dissolved in an amount of from 0.5% to 1% by weight in a mixture of ethanol (15%), benzyl alcohol (5%) and benzoic acid (0.5%), the remainder being made up (79.5%) with water.
The lock of hair is placed in an inclined channel to which 10 ml of a 1% solution of the compound to be studyed are added. The lock is thus maintained at ambient temperature for 20 minutes. It is then rinsed with water, then blow drying is applied, followed by 10 passes with a straightening iron at 210° C. A shampooing operation and 5 shampooing operations are carried out with a sensory evaluation after each shampooing operation.
The compounds studied are the following:
Sensory Evaluation:
The locks treated with the compound according to the invention 4 with a straightening iron show greater coating than the locks treated with the comparative A and exhibit, when dry, a softness that is much more pronounced after 1 shampooing operation and all the greater after 5 shampooing operations, without however modifying the colouration of the hair in a visually observable manner.
The comparative carried out with a lock treated with A compared with a lock treated with the compound according to the invention 4, optionally followed by a treatment with the iron, shows the importance of the presence of a fatty chain on the dye, and the importance of the straightening iron on the cosmetic effect observed and on the persistence of the effect. This was confirmed by the spectrocolorimetric measurements.
Spectrocolorimetric Evaluation:
The colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3610D colorimeter. In this L* a* b* system, the three parameters denote, respectively, the colour intensity (L*), the green/red colour axis (a*) and the blue/yellow colour axis (b*).
Build-Up of the Colour:
The variation in colouration between the non-dyed and dyed locks of hair are defined by (ΔE*) according to the following equation:
ΔE*=√{square root over ((L*−Lo*)2+(a*−ao*)2+(b*−bo*)2)}
In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on locks of hair after dyeing and L0*, a0* and b0* represent the values measured on locks of hair before dyeing. The higher the value of ΔE*, the greater the colour build-up.
The chromaticity is given by the following equation: C*=√{square root over ((a*)2+(b*)2)}; the higher the value, the more chromatic the colour of the fibre.
A (comparative)
It appears that the composition according to the invention which contains a disulfide dye bearing a C10-C30 aliphatic chain makes it possible to very significantly increase the chromaticity of the colour of keratin fibres.
It appears that the keratin fibres treated with a disulfide dye of the invention which contains a C10-C30 aliphatic chain makes it possible to obtain very intense colourations and with a very good build-up of the colour. Furthermore, the build-up does not significantly vary even after a steam iron and 5 shampooing operations. Specifically, a ΔE of 36.30 after 5 shampooing operations was obtained, while it is 36.54 without steam iron and 36.85 with steam iron.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1560806 | Nov 2015 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2016/077555 | 11/14/2016 | WO | 00 |
