Patent Application
20230404864
The present disclosure is generally directed towards skin care emulsion compositions that contain clean polymers, in particular the skin care emulsions are stable, viscous compositions that contain clean polymers, such as an acrylate, taurate copolymer and a natural or naturally derived emulsifier, such as cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate.
Some consumers want skin care products that are efficacious, have a silky texture, absorb quickly into the skin, and are formulated without petroleum derived ingredients, ethoxylated ingredients, sulfates, parabens, formaldehydes, phthalates, and mineral oil.
Polymers are frequently used in skin care products to enhance the product's viscosity and can also act as a moisturizer. Many skin care products contain multiple polymers that can include polyacrylamides, petroleum derived ingredients (e.g., isoparaffin, petrolatum), and/or ethoxylated ingredients. However, some consumers prefer products that are formulated without these ingredients and may also want products that meet the requirements to be marketed as “Clean at Sephora” (see Best Clean Beauty Products 2022. Sephora. Retrieved Jun. 13, 2022, from www.sephora.com/beauty/clean-beauty-products, “Clean at Sephora” is an initiative in which the beauty retailer badged over 2,000 products as “clean,” in this case meaning free of ingredients like sulfates, parabens, formaldehyde, phthalates, and mineral oil).
One polymer that can be used in these clean products is a copolymer of acrylates and taurate (e.g., Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & C15-19 Alkane & Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate & Polyglycerin-6 available as SEPILIFE™ NUDE from Seppic). This class of polymers may deliver an excellent texture, usage experience and performance, while also meeting the definition of “clean” under the Clean at Sephora standards.
The polymer is generally supplied as a dispersed phase in an oil and is part of the continuous phase of an oil-in-water emulsion. An emulsifier can promote the formation of the emulsion and can also help maintain product stability. However, many traditional emulsifiers do not satisfy the “Clean at Sephora” guidelines and therefore may not be preferred by some consumers. Other emulsifiers are not compatible with the copolymer of acrylates and taurate thickening agent, for instance, the product is not a stable emulsion that has a silky texture that is quickly absorbed into the user's skin.
Therefore, there is a need for one or more emulsifiers that are compatible with a copolymer of acrylates and taurate to form a stable emulsion, are non-ethoxylated, and clean. In some examples, there is also a need for the emulsifier to be natural, naturally derived and/or biodegradable.
A skin care composition comprising: (a) a continuous phase comprising: (i) a polymer comprising an acrylate/taurate copolymer; (ii) water; (b) a dispersed phase comprising: (i) two or more emollients comprising: (1) a liquid emollient; wherein the liquid emollient comprises alkanes, esters, triglycerides, or combinations thereof; (2) a fatty alcohol having an average carbon chain length ranging from about 12 to about 22; (c) an emulsifier comprising cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate.
A skin care composition comprising: (a) a continuous phase comprising: (i) a polymer comprising an acrylate/taurate copolymer; (ii) water; (b) a dispersed phase comprising: (i) two or more emollients comprising: (1) a liquid emollient; (2) a fatty alcohol having an average carbon chain length ranging from about 12 to about 22; (ii) one or more natural or naturally derived emulsifiers; wherein the composition comprises a viscosity of greater than or equal to 550 Pa*s when the emollient consists of isohexadecene; and wherein the composition comprises a viscosity of greater than or equal to 550 Pa*s when the emollient consists of triheptanoin; wherein the skin care composition has a tack force of less than 750 g; wherein the composition is formulated without polyacrylamides and ethoxylated ingredients; wherein the two or more emollients and the one or more emulsifiers are formulated without petroleum derived ingredients.
A skin care composition comprising: (a) a continuous phase comprising: (i) a polymer comprising an acrylate/taurate copolymer; (ii) water; (b) a dispersed phase comprising: (i) emollients liquid and waxy (1) fatty alcohols having an average carbon chain length ranging from about 12 to about 22; (2) a liquid emollient; wherein the liquid emollient comprises alkanes, esters, triglycerides, or combinations thereof; (c) an emulsifier comprising a mixture of esters made from anhydrides of natural sugars and/or sugars derived from natural sources and fatty acids with average carbon chain lengths ranging from about 12 to about 22; wherein the composition comprises a viscosity of greater than or equal to 550 Pa*s.
While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing out and distinctly claiming the subject matter of the present invention, it is believed that the invention can be more readily understood from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:
Skin care compositions can contain synthetic polymers. The polymers can enhance the composition's texture and viscosity. However, these polymers can contain polyacrylamides, petroleum derived ingredients, and/or ethoxylated ingredients. Some consumers would prefer products that are formulated without these ingredients, while also being clean. It was found that one polymer that can be used in these clean products is a copolymer of acrylates and taurate, for example a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer like sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer & C15-19 alkane & polyglyceryl-6 laurate & polyglycerin-6 (commercially available as SEPILIFE™ NUDE from Seppic), as shown in
In skin care compositions the polymer is generally supplied within an oil and then inverts to become part of the continuous phase in an oil-in-water emulsion. It can be difficult to form a stable emulsion, particularly if the skin care product is a moisturizer that has a relatively high level of oil. An emulsifier can promote the formation of the emulsion and can also help maintain product stability.
However, it can be difficult to select one or more emulsifiers that efficiently build the composition's viscosity and form stable emulsions in products that contain a copolymer of acrylates and taurate. Furthermore, many consumers want a clean product that can include one or more emulsifiers that are natural, naturally derived, and/or biodegradable.
Also, it can be advantageous for the one or more emulsifiers to be efficient because emulsifiers are generally used at the lowest level that gives the desired product viscosity and stability to give the best product performance. If an emulsifier is only effective when used at a relatively high level, the product may be difficult to spread and can remain as a white layer on top of the skin, instead of absorbing into skin. In these cases, the product can also feel heavy and/or tacky. Furthermore, it can be advantageous if there is synergy between the polymer and the emulsifier, which can allow the emulsifier to be incorporated at an even lower level leading to a smooth lightweight moisturizer with sufficient viscosity.
Skin care compositions can include a range of emollients that can soften, moisturize, and/or protect the skin against irritation as well as aid in solubility of various skin care benefit ingredients. These emollients can have a range of polarity and it can be advantageous to select an emulsifier that is effective in the skin composition system regardless of the polarity of the emollient.
Examples B-J (see Table 1 to Table 3, hereafter) were made with emulsifiers that are clean and natural or naturally derived. These examples are compared to Example A-1 and 2 (see Table 1, hereafter) that include PEG-100 Stearate as the emulsifier, which is currently used in some in-market products. Examples A-1 and 2 have a sufficient viscosity (1082 Pa*s and 842 Pa*s, respectively), which indicates that the emulsifier is compatible with the sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer. However, some consumers prefer skin care products that are formulated without PEG. With respect to Examples B-J, three emulsifiers (see Examples E, G, and H) had sufficient viscosity (e.g., ≥550 Pa*s) with compositions that included a non-polar emollient (isohexadecene) and a more polar emollient (triheptanoin). However, it was found that the emollient from Example H could be consumer acceptable because not only did the composition have sufficient viscosity, but it was also had a silky, smooth texture and did not have a noticeable off-putting smell. The emulsifiers in Examples H-1 and 2 were cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate (commercially available as Olivem® 1000 from HallStar®). It is believed that similar emulsifiers that include waxy esters made from fatty alcohols and fatty acids derived from natural sources with a carbon chain length ranging from C12-C22 could be compatible with sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.
The composition can include at least 50% natural or naturally derived ingredients, alternatively at least 60%, alternatively at least 70%, alternatively at least 75%, alternatively at least 80%, alternatively at least 85%, and alternatively at least 90%. In some examples, one or more ingredients, in addition to being naturally derived, has greater than 60% natural origin by molecular weight, alternatively greater than 70%, alternatively greater than 80%.
In some examples, the composition can be formulated without, substantially free of, or free of the following ingredients: triethanolamine, ethanol, glycerine monostearate, sodium hydroxide, sodium chloride, tocopherols, and combinations thereof. Some consumers believe these ingredients are irritating and/or can cause acne. In some examples, the composition can be formulated without, substantially free of, or free of silicones.
Tack force generally refers to the peak force required to separate an object from the composition after contacting the composition. At least some users associate good moisturization with a high tack force, especially during and/or shortly after application of the product (e.g., less than 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, or even less than 1 minute after application). However, an increase in tack force is typically accompanied by an increase in stringiness and the moisturizer feels heavy on top of the user's skin. And while a user may tolerate or even desire some stringiness and/or heaviness during and/or immediately after application as a signal of moisturization, it may be undesirable for the stringiness to persist, for example, more than 1, 5, 7, 10, or even more than 20 minutes after application of the product.
The composition can have an average tack force between 20 and 40 minutes of less than 750 g, alternatively less than 725 g, alternatively less than 710 g, and alternatively less than 705 g. The composition can have an average tack force between 20 and 40 minutes from about 250 g to about 750 g, alternatively from about 400 g to about 725 g, alternatively from about 500 g to about 710 g, and alternatively from about 550 g to about 705 g.
Furthermore, the composition can be a physically stable emulsion. A composition is physically stable if by visual detection there is no phase separation or the viscosity varies by less than 40% when stored in a glass jar closed finger tight between t=0 (i.e., immediately after the composition is made) and a freeze thaw cycle where the sample is held at -18° C. for 24 hours then returned to room temperature or one month storage at 40° C. followed by return to room temperature. As used herein, “visual detection” means that a human viewer can visually discern if the product had separated into 2 distinct layers in a 2 oz clear glass jar with the unaided eye (excepting standard corrective lenses adapted to compensate for near-sightedness, farsightedness, or stigmatism, or other corrected vision) in lighting at least equal to the illumination of a standard 100-watt incandescent white light bulb at 30 cm.
All percentages are by weight of the cosmetic composition, unless specifically stated otherwise. All ratios are weight ratios, unless specifically stated otherwise. All ranges are inclusive and combinable. The number of significant digits conveys neither a limitation on the indicated amounts nor on the accuracy of the measurements. All numerical amounts are understood to be modified by the word “about” unless otherwise specifically indicated. Unless otherwise indicated, all measurements are understood to be made at approximately 25° C. and at ambient conditions, where “ambient conditions” means conditions under about 1 atmosphere of pressure and at about 50% relative humidity. All numeric ranges are inclusive of narrower ranges; delineated upper and lower range limits are interchangeable to create further ranges not explicitly delineated.
As used herein, “biodegradable” refers to materials that meet the pass levels for readily and ultimate biodegradability according to the OECD Guideline for Testing of Chemicals, Method 301 B: CO2 Evolution (Modified Sturm Test) (adopted Jul. 17, 1992).
As used herein, “clean” refers to cosmetic compositions that are formulated without the following ingredients: Acrylate Monomers, Aluminum Salts, Animal Musk's/Fats/Oils, Benzophenones and related compounds, Butoxyethanol, Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), Carbon Black or Black 2, Coal Tar, Ethanolamines, Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde-releasing agents, Hydroquinone, Lead and Lead Acetate, Mercury and Mercury Compounds (Thimerisol), Methoxyethanol, Methyl Cellosolve, Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone, Mineral Oil, Nanomaterials, Chemical sunscreens (including oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate), Parabens (including butyl-, methyl-, and propylparaben), Petrolatum and Paraffin, Phenoxyethanol, Phthalates, Plastic Microbeads, Polyacrylamide and Acrylamide, Resorcinol, Retinyl Palmitate, Styrene, Sulfates (including sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate), Talc, Toluene, Triclosan and Triclocarban, Acetaldehyde, Acetone, Acetonitrile, Benzalkonium chloride, Bisphenol A (BPA), Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), Methylene chloride, Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), 1,4 Dioxane, Octinoxate, Nitromusks and Polycyclic Musks, PFAS compounds, Ethoxylated Ingredients, Polyethylene glycol (PEG), Cyclic Silicones, volatile linear silicones including silicone elastomers which contain volatile linear silicones, and derivatives and combinations thereof.
As used herein, “formulated without” means that the ingredient is not intentionally added. However, “formulated without” does not guarantee “100% free from” since trace contaminants are possible.
As used herein, “natural” refers to cosmetic ingredients obtained only from plants, animals, micro-organisms, or minerals according to International Organization for Standardization 16128-1, Part 1, ¶12.1 (Feb. 15, 2016). Ingredients obtained from fossil fuels are excluded from the definition. A non-limiting list of “natural” ingredient sources can include olive, palm, corn, palm, rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, coconut, tallow, canola, castor, and combinations hereof.
As used herein, “naturally derived” refers to cosmetic ingredients of greater than 50% natural origin by molecular weight, by renewable carbon content or by any other relevant methods, obtained through defined chemical and/or biological processes with the intention of chemical modification according to ISO 16128-1, Part 1, ¶3.1 (Feb. 15, 2016). ISO 16128-1, Appendix B includes a non-limiting list of chemical and biological processes for derived natural ingredients, which is incorporated by reference.
As used herein, “skin care” means regulating and/or improving a skin condition. Some nonlimiting examples include improving skin appearance and/or feel by providing a smoother, more even appearance and/or feel; increasing the thickness of one or more layers of the skin; improving the elasticity or resiliency of the skin; improving the firmness of the skin; and reducing the oily, shiny, and/or dull appearance of skin, improving the hydration status or moisturization of the skin, improving the appearance of fine lines and/or wrinkles, improving skin exfoliation or desquamation, plumping the skin, improving skin barrier properties, improve skin tone, reducing the appearance of redness or skin blotches, and/or improving the brightness, radiancy, or translucency of skin; preventing damage to skin via antioxidant approaches, including UV A and UV B induced damage, preventing formation of comedones, balancing the skin microbiome or preventing acne.
As used herein, “skin care active” means a compound or combination of compounds that, when applied to skin, provide an acute and/or chronic benefit to skin or a type of cell commonly found therein. Skin care actives may regulate and/or improve skin or its associated cells (e.g., improve skin elasticity, hydration, skin barrier function, and/or cell metabolism).
As used herein, “skin care composition” means a composition that includes a skin care active and regulates and/or improves skin condition.
As used herein, “substantially free” means less than 0.5%, less than 0.25%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, and/or less than 0.01%.
The skin care composition can be a stable emulsion with a continuous aqueous phase (e.g., an oil-in-water or water-in-oil-in-water emulsion) or a continuous oil phase (e.g., water-in-oil or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion) and a dispersed phase. An emulsifier can promote the formation of the emulsion and can also help maintain product stability.
In some examples, the skin care composition can be a moisturizer with a viscosity that is sufficient for it to be dispensed from a jar without sloshing or easily spilling and is also thin enough so it can be easily spread across a user's face, eye area, and/or neck. The viscosity at about 0.10 s−1 can be greater than or equal to 550 Pa*s, alternatively greater than or equal to 600 Pa*s, alternatively greater than or equal to 1500 Pa*s, alternatively greater than or equal to 2000 Pa*s, alternatively greater than or equal to 2500 Pa*s, alternatively greater than or equal to 3000 Pa*s. The average viscosity can be from about 550 Pa*s to about 6000 Pa*s, alternatively from about 600 Pa*s to about 5500 Pa*s, alternatively from about 800 Pa*s to about 5000 Pa*s, and alternatively from about 1000 Pa*s to about 3000 Pa*s. The viscosity at about 0.10 s−1 can be determined by the Rheology Test Method, described hereafter.
In some examples, the composition can be a serum with a viscosity at about 0.10 s−1 from about 20 to about 500 Pa*s, alternatively from about 30 to about 300 Pa*s, and alternatively from about 50 to about 20 Pa*s. In some examples, the composition can be a serum that is dispensed through a pump dispenser and has a viscosity of less than or equal to 500 Pa*s. In other examples, the composition can be a serum that is dispensed through a dropper with a viscosity of less than or equal to 200 Pa*s.
In some examples, the composition can have a limited number of ingredients, in particular a limited number of ingredients that need to be reported on the INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) statement on the package. The composition can ≤25 ingredients, alternatively ≤20 ingredients, alternatively ≤15 ingredients, and alternatively ≤12 ingredients.
The skin care composition can contain an emulsifier. The preferred emulsifier can promote the formation of the emulsion, stabilize the composition, and can work with the polymer to thicken the skin care composition.
The skin care composition can contain from about 0.10% to about 2%, alternatively from about 0.2% to about 1.5%, alternatively from about 0.4% to about 1.2%, and alternatively from about 0.6% to about 0.8% of an emulsifier. The skin care composition can contain less than 2%, alternatively less than 1.75%, alternatively less than 1.5%, alternatively less than 1.25%, alternatively less than 1%, and alternatively less than 0.8% of an emulsifier.
The emulsifier can be cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate (commercially available as Olivem® 1000 from HallStar®).
In another example the emulsifier can comprise one or more of the following:
The continuous phase can comprise one or more of the following: a dermatologically acceptable carrier, polymer, Vitamin B3 compound, or a combination thereof.
The continuous phase can include a dermatologically acceptable carrier (which may be referred to as a “carrier”). The phrase “dermatologically acceptable carrier” means that the carrier is suitable for topical application to the keratinous tissue, has good aesthetic properties, is compatible with the actives in the composition, and will not cause any unreasonable safety or toxicity concerns. In one embodiment, the carrier is present at a level of from about 50% to about 95%, about 52% to about 90%, about 55% to about 85%, or, alternatively, from about 60% to about 80%, by weight of the composition.
The carrier can be in a wide variety of forms. In some instances, the solubility or dispersibility of the components (e.g., extracts, sunscreen active, additional components) may dictate the form and character of the carrier. Non-limiting examples of the product form can include dispersions, emulsions, and solid forms (e.g., gels, sticks, flowable solids, or amorphous materials). The skin care composition can be aqueous or anhydrous. The oil phase of the emulsion may include silicone oils, esters, ethers, triglcyerides and mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase may include water and water-soluble ingredients (e.g., water-soluble moisturizing agents, conditioning agents, anti-microbials, humectants and/or other skin care actives). In some instances, the aqueous phase may include components other than water, including but not limited to water-soluble moisturizing agents, conditioning agents, anti-microbials, humectants and/or other water-soluble skin care actives. In some instances, the non-water component of the composition comprises a humectant such as glycerin and/or other polyol(s). The composition can contain from about 1% to about 20%, alternatively from about 3% to about 18%, alternatively from about 5% to about 17%, and alternatively from about 6% to about 15% humectant.
In some instances, the compositions herein are in the form of an oil-in-water (“O/W”) emulsion that provides a sensorial feel that is light and non-greasy. Suitable O/W emulsions herein may include a continuous aqueous phase of more than 50% by weight of the composition, and the remainder being the dispersed oil phase. The aqueous phase may include 1% to 99% water, based on the weight of the aqueous phase, along with any water soluble and/or water miscible ingredients. In these instances, the dispersed oil phase will typically be present at less than 30% by weight of composition (e.g., 1% to 20%, 2% to 15%, 3% to 12%, 4% to 10%, or even 5% to 8%) to help avoid some of the undesirable feel effects of oily compositions. The oil phase may include one or more non-volatile oils (e.g., botanical oils and/or silicone oils). Some nonlimiting examples of oils that may be suitable for use in the present compositions are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 9,446,265 and U.S. Publication No. 2015/0196464.
The carrier may contain one or more dermatologically acceptable diluents. As used herein, “diluent” refers to materials in which the skin care actives herein can be dispersed, dissolved, or otherwise incorporated. Some non-limiting examples of hydrophilic diluents include water, organic hydrophilic diluents such as lower monovalent alcohols (e.g., C1-C4) and low molecular weight glycols and polyols, glycerol, butylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, sorbitol esters, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropanol, sorbitol esters, butanediol, ether propanol, and combinations thereof.
The continuous phase can include one or more polymers in the continuous phase. The polymer can help thicken the skin care composition, as well as help provide a smooth, silky feeling during and after application to the skin.
The composition may comprise greater than 0.2%, alternatively greater than 0.3%, alternatively greater than 0.4%, alternatively greater than 0.5%, alternatively greater than 0.6%, alternatively greater than 0.7%, or alternatively greater than or equal to 0.8% polymer. The composition may comprise less than or equal to 1.6%, alternatively less than or equal to 1.4%, alternatively less than or equal to 1.3%, alternatively less than or equal to 1.0% polymer. In some examples, the composition is a moisturizer, such as a cream or lotion, and can include from about to about 3%, alternatively from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, alternatively from about 0.75% to about 2.2%, alternatively from about 1.2% to about 2%, alternatively from about 1.5% to about 1.9%, or alternatively from about 1.6% to about 1.8% polymer. In other examples, the composition can be a serum and can include from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, alternatively from about 0.2% to about 1.25%, alternatively from about 0.4% to about 1%, or alternatively from about 0.5% to about polymer.
The polymer can include an acrylate/taurate copolymer and in some examples the polymer can be a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer. In some examples, the composition can include Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & C15 -19 Alkane & Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate & Polyglycerin-6 (commercially available as SEPILIFE™ NUDE from Seppic® Corporation). In some cases, the composition can include sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer & C15-19 alkane & Lauryl Glucoside (commercially available as Natursol™ EMI132 from SNF Floerger). In other examples, the composition can include sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acrloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Sodium acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate copolymer, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, sodium acrylates copolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and combinations thereof.
The compositions herein can include a safe and effective amount of a vitamin B3 compound. The Vitamin B3 compound can be in the continuous phase. In some instances, the present compositions may contain 0.01% to 10%, by weight, of the vitamin B3 compound, based on the weight or volume of the composition (e.g., 0.1% to 10%, 0.5% to 5%, or even 1% to 3%). As used herein, “vitamin B3 compound” means a compound having the formula:
Where: R is CONH2 (i.e., niacinamide), COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid) or CH2 OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing.
Exemplary derivatives of vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid (e.g., tocopheryl nicotinate, myristyl nicotinate) nicotinamide riboside, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide, and niacinamide N-oxide.
The continuous phase can include one or more thickening agents. The thickening agent can include natural gums, cellulose thickening agents, natural powders, or a combination thereof.
Natural gums are polysaccharides of natural origin, capable of causing a viscosity increase in solution, even at small concentrations. They can be used as thickening agents, gelling agents, stabilizers, and can help keep the emulsion more stable. Most often these gums are found in the woody elements of plants or in seed coatings. Natural gums can be classified according to their origin. They can also be classified as uncharged or ionic polymers (polyelectrolytes), examples of which include the following: Natural gums obtained from seaweeds, such as: agar; alginic acid; sodium alginate; and carrageenan. Natural gums obtained from non-marine botanical resources include: gum arabic, from the sap of Acacia trees; gum ghatti, from the sap of Anogeissus trees; gum tragacanth, from the sap of Astragalus shrubs; karaya gum, from the sap of Sterculia trees. Examples of uncharged gums include: guar gum, from guar beans, locust bean gum, from the seeds of the carob tree; beta-glucan, from oat or barley bran; chicle gum, an older base for chewing gum obtained from the chicle tree; dammar gum, from the sap of Dipterocarpaceae trees; glucomannan from the konjac plant; mastic gum, a chewing gum from ancient Greece obtained from the mastic tree; psyllium seed husks, from the Plantago plant; spruce gum, a chewing gum of American Indians obtained from spruce trees; tara gum, from the seeds of the tara tree. Natural gums produced by bacterial fermentation include gellan gum and xanthan gum.
Examples of cellulose thickening agents which may be used in the skin care compositions can include, but are not limited to, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, or a combination thereof.
Natural powders can include, for example, clay, diatomaceous earth, fuller's earth, silica, silica shells or spherical silica, fumed silica, spherical silica, hydrated silica, silica silylate, mica, titanated mica, talc, corn starch, rice starch, glyceryl starch, soy flour, walnut shell powder, agar, sericite, dextran, nylon, silk powder, chalk, calcium carbonate, bismuth oxychloride, iron oxide, titanium dioxide, aluminum silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium trisilicate, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, bentonite, hectorite, kaolin, maltodextrin, montmorillonite, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc rosinate, alumina, attapulgite, tin oxide, titanium hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, or a mixture thereof.
The dispersed phase can comprise an emollient.
The composition may include one or more emollients that can be natural or naturally derived and/or biodegradable, alternatively all the emollients can be natural or naturally derived and/or biodegradable. The skin care composition can be formulated without, free of, or substantially free of petroleum-based emollients. The emollient can be a liquid emollient having a melting point below 40° C., below 35° C., or below 30° C. The liquid emollient can be an oil, which can include an ester, alkane, triglyceride, non-volatile silicones, and combinations thereof. In another example, the emollient can be a waxy emollient, such as a fatty alcohol, having a melting point above 40° C., alternatively above 50° C. In some examples, the skin care composition can contain one or more liquid emollients and one more waxy emollients.
The skin care composition can include from about 1% to about 30%, alternatively from about 2% to about 20%, alternatively from about 3% to about 15% emollient, alternatively from about 4% to about 10%, and alternatively from about 5% to about 8% of one or more emollients.
The skin care composition may include from about 0.5% to about 10%, alternatively from about 1% to about 9%, alternatively from about 1% to about 8%, alternatively from about 2% to about 7%, alternatively from about 3% to about 6% liquid emollient.
The liquid emollient can be a naturally derived oil that is a plant oil. Examples of the plant oil can include, but are not limited to, palm kernel, coconut, avocado, canola, corn, cottonseed, olive, palm, hi-oleic sunflower, mid-oleic sunflower, sunflower, palm stearin, palm kernel olein, safflower, babassu oils, and combinations thereof. In one embodiment, palm kernel oil may be the selected oil. In another embodiment, coconut oil may be the selected oil. In another embodiment, the plant oil may be a combination of palm kernel oil and coconut oil.
The skin care composition can include one or more of the following liquid emollients:
The skin care composition may include from about 0.1% to about 10%, alternatively from about 0.2% to about 8%, alternatively from about 0.5% to about 5%, alternatively from about 1% to about 4%, alternatively from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, and alternatively from about 2% to about 3% waxy emollient.
One or more emollients can be solids at room temperature and have an average carbon chain length ranging from about 12 to about 22, alternatively about 12 to about 18, alternatively from about 16 to about 22, and alternatively 16 to about 18.
The skin care composition can include a waxy emollient, such as a wax, butter, fatty alcohol, or a combination thereof. Waxy emollients can include, but are not limited to, beeswax, jojoba wax, shea butter, palm kernel wax, lanolin wax, shellac wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, ozokerite, cocos nucifera (coconut) butter, goat butter, acrocomia aculeata seed butter, chiuri butter, carnauba, candelilla, or a combinations thereof.
Fatty alcohols can include monohydric alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms, although longer chain alcohols in excess of 30 carbons may be used. The fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohols may be straight or branched. In one example, the waxy emollient may comprise straight chain, saturated fatty alcohol with a terminal hydroxyl. The fatty alcohols can include decyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, icosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, batyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, brassica alcohol, coconut alcohol, hydrogenated jojoba alcohol, jojoba alcohol, or a combination thereof. In some examples, the fatty alcohol can have an average carbon chain length from about 12 to about 22, alternatively from about 16 to about 22, alternatively from about 16 to about 18. Alternatively, the fatty alcohol can have an average chain length of from about 12 to about 18. In some examples, the skin care compositions can be formulated without, substantially free of, or free of cetearyl alcohol because they believe that it can have unfavorable comedogenicity. In another example, the skin care compositions can be formulated without, substantially free of, or free of palmitic acid and stearic acid.
The present composition may optionally include one or more additional ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions (e.g., dyes, pigments, mica, insoluble particles, skin care actives, anti-inflammatory agents, sunscreen agents, emulsifiers, buffers, rheology modifiers, chelants, combinations of these and the like), provided that the additional ingredients do not undesirably alter the skin health or appearance benefits provided by the present compositions. The additional ingredients can be in the continuous phase and/or the dispersed phase. The additional ingredients, when incorporated into the composition, should be suitable for use in contact with human skin tissue without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like. Some nonlimiting examples of additional actives include vitamins, minerals, peptides and peptide derivatives, sugar amines, sunscreens, oil control agents, particulates, flavonoid compounds, hair growth regulators, anti-oxidants and/or anti-oxidant precursors, preservatives, protease inhibitors, tyrosinase inhibitors, anti-inflammatory agents, moisturizing agents, exfoliating agents, skin lightening agents, sunless tanning agents, lubricants, anti-acne actives, anti-cellulite actives, chelating agents, anti-wrinkle actives, anti-atrophy actives, phytosterols and/or plant hormones, N-acyl amino acid compounds, antimicrobials, and antifungals. In some examples, the composition can include a fragrance, in particular a natural fragrance, or a colorant, in particular a natural colorant. In some examples, the skin care composition can include a silicone elastomer including but not limited to silicone elastomers supplied solvated in non-volatile linear silicone fluids, silicone elastomers supplied solvated in alkanes, esters or triglycerides. The chelant can be selected from ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), trisodium dicarboxymethyl alaninate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, phytic acid, or a combination thereof. Other non-limiting examples of additional ingredients and/or skin care actives that may be suitable for use herein are described in U.S. Publication Nos. 2002/0022040; 2003/0049212; 2004/0175347; 2006/0275237; 2007/0196344; 2008/0181956; 2008/0206373; 2010/00092408; 2008/0206373; 2010/0239510; 2010/0189669; 2010/0272667; 2011/0262025; 2011/0097286; US2012/0197016; 2012/0128683; 2012/0148515; 2012/0156146; and 2013/0022557; and U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,939,082; 5,872,112; 6,492,326; 6,696,049; 6,524,598; 5,972,359; and 6,174,533.
When including optional ingredients in the compositions herein, it may be desirable to select ingredients that do not form complexes or otherwise undesirably interact with other ingredients in the composition, especially pH sensitive ingredients like niacinamide, salicylates and peptides. When present, the optional ingredients may be included at amounts of from 0.0001% to 50%; from 0.001% to 20%; or even from 0.01% to 10% (e.g., 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, 5%, 4%, 3%, 2%, 1%, 0.5% or 0.1%), by weight of the composition.
In some examples, the composition can be formulated without, substantially free of, or free of dyes.
The skin care cream/moisturizer composition may be applied to the face, neck, and/or a portion or combination thereof at least once a day, twice a day, or on a more frequent daily basis, during a treatment period. When applied twice daily, the first and second applications are separated by at least 1 to 12 hours. Typically, the composition is applied in the morning and/or at night before bed. The treatment period herein is ideally of sufficient time for the skin care actives to improve the appearance of the skin. The treatment period may last for at least a week (e.g., about 1 week, about 2 weeks, about 4 weeks, about 8 weeks, or even about 12 weeks). In some instances, the treatment period will extend over multiple months (i.e., about 3-12 months). In some instances, the composition may be applied most days of the week (e.g., at least 4, 5 or 6 days a week), at least once a day or even twice a day during a treatment period of at least 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 8 weeks, or 12 weeks.
The skin care composition can be intended for use before bedtime and/or in the morning. It can be evenly massaged over the entire face (including or excluding the eye area) and/or neck. The product can be the final step in a skin care routine and can be applied after cleansing and optionally after applying serums and/or other skin care products. The skin care composition can hydrate to a visibly firm skin for a lifted look. The skin composition can strengthen skin's moisture barrier for bouncy, firm, and younger-looking skin. The skin care composition can reduce and/or soften wrinkles and fine lines.
This method provides a suitable means for determining the tackiness of the compositions described herein. The method uses a texture analyzer to contact a probe with a film formed from the composition. The texture analyzer then measures the force needed to separate the probe from the composition film. Tack Force can be determined by this method. The Tack Method is configured to run for a period of 100 minutes. It is believed, without being limited by theory, that the tackiness properties exhibited by a composition over the course of the Tack Test approximate the tackiness properties exhibited by the composition during the first few minutes (e.g., less than minutes, between 30 seconds and 5 minutes, or between 1 minute and 3 minutes) of use of the composition by a user.
The test is conducted using an adhesive test protocol with a pretest speed of 0.10 mm/second, a test speed of 0.10 mm/sec and a post-test speed of 1.0 mm/sec. The applied force is 200 g, the return distance is 4 mm and the contact time is 5.0 sec. The trigger type to designate sample contact is set to automatic and the trigger force is 5.0 g. The test is run and at the following time increments immediately after the film is prepared: <1 minute (i.e., immediately following preparation of the film), 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 80, and 100 minutes. Each time point is run on a previously undisturbed/untested area of the sample. Each sample is run in triplicate and the averages are recorded.
The average tack force between 20 and 40 minutes can be useful in determining whether a product is too tacky to be consumer acceptable. To calculate the average tack force between 20 and 40 minutes, the tack force at 20, 30, and 40 minutes are added together and divided by three and is reported in units of grams (g).
This method provides a suitable means of measuring the viscosity of the compositions herein. The instrument used in this method is a TA Instruments brand rheometer, or equivalent. The instrument is set up to conduct a rotational ramp under controlled stress conditions, from 0.01 to 2000 Pa over 240 seconds, using serrated parallel plate for the upper and lower geometry with a 40 mm diameter, and a 1.0 mm gap. The temperature is set to 25° C. The instrument protocol is set up to collect 100 data points per decade in a logarithmic distribution, with a setting to stop the measure when shear rates exceed 110 s−1.
After conducting an automated gap calibration, approximately 5 grams of a sample is placed on the center of the plate. The plate is positioned to provide a gap of 1.05 mm, and any excess material squeezed out of the perimeter gap of the parallel plates is carefully trimmed away. The plate is then moved the final 0.05 mm to provide a 1.00 mm gap, and the measurement is initiated. At the end of the run, the data file is saved for subsequent plotting and analysis. The viscosity is reported in units of Pascal-Seconds (PaS) as the value at or near a shear rate of 0.10 s−1.
The following data and examples are provided to help illustrate the skincare compositions described herein. The exemplified compositions are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed as limitations of the present disclosure, as many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the disclosure. All parts, percentages, and ratios herein are by weight unless otherwise specified.
The Examples in Table 1 to Table 3 and Table 5 to Table 11, below, were prepared by the following method. First, a water phase was made by combining water and water soluble ingredients including, but not limited to, glycerin, chelant (e.g., disodium EDTA, EDDS), water soluble skin care actives (e.g., panthenol), and antioxidants (e.g., hydroxyacetophenone). The water phase was mixed and heated to about 50° C. until the ingredients were in solution and/or dispersed. The water phase can contain about 70% to about 98%, alternatively from about 75% to about 95%, alternatively from about 80% to about 94%, alternatively from about 85% to about 93%, or alternatively from about 88% to about 92% water, by weight of the water phase.
In a second container, an oil phase premix was made. The premix included the liquid and waxy emollients and one or more emulsifiers. The premix was mixed and heated to about 50° C. until the ingredients are fully dispersed in the premix.
The premix was added to the water phase. Then, the mixture was milled to emulsify the oil phase premix into the water phase, forming an emulsion where the water phase is the continuous phase, and the oil phase is dispersed phase. One or more additional ingredients were added after emulsification while continuously mixing with an overhead mixer. Additional ingredients may be added either before, after or during cooling of the product to room temperature and included but were not limited to polymeric thickeners (e.g., SEPILIFE™ NUDE, NATURSOL™ EMI 132), silicones, colorants, pigments, powders, micas, preservatives, fragrances, and additional skin actives.
The viscosity of the Examples in the following Tables was determined using the Rheology Test Method, as disclosed herein.
For the Examples detailed in Table 1 to Table 3, below, and
Some examples were made with modified corn starch and others were made with Zea mays corn starch (commercially available as AMAZE® HTP Pure from Nouryon®). It was found that there was no appreciable difference in viscosity and stability when formulating with either starch. It was found that Zea mays corn starch may be preferred in some large-scale productions.
The emulsifier used in Examples A-1 and 2 includes PEG-100 stearate emulsifier, a polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid. These compositions had consumer acceptable viscosity. However, some consumers prefer compositions that are free from PEG, natural or naturally derived, and/or biodegradable.
Examples B-J include emulsifiers that are free of PEG and are also clean. In addition, the emulsifiers in Examples B-J are natural or naturally derived, and biodegradable. The examples that had a viscosity greater than or equal to 550 Pa*s for both emollients were Examples E, G, and H. Examples E-1 and 2 are not preferred because both examples had a noticeable foul odor that would be offensive to many consumers.
Example G-1 may be acceptable to consumers. However, Example G-2 was noticeably tacky, which can make the product difficult to spread across a user's skin and the product can feel heavy and sticky after application. Since this emulsifier does not produce a consumer preferred product across a range of emollients, it may not be preferred (see
Examples H-1 and 2 both have a viscosity greater than or equal to 550 Pa*s and have no noticeable off-putting smell. In addition, both examples were stable emulsions that had a smooth, silky texture. The emulsifier in Examples H-1 and 2 was cetearyl olivate. It is believed that other emulsifiers that include a mixture of waxy esters made from fatty alcohols and fatty acids derived from natural sources (e.g., olive, palm, corn, palm, rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, coconut, tallow, canola, castor) with a carbon chain length ranging from C12-C22 could be used in stable skin care compositions that have sufficient viscosity (e.g., >550 Pa*s).
The skin care composition Examples in Table 5 to Table 9 were made and it is believed that these examples are stable, have sufficient viscosity, and would be acceptable to consumers.
Table 10 and Table 11 are examples of serum compositions that were made, and it is believed that these examples are stable, have sufficient viscosity, and would be acceptable to consumers for dispensing from a dropper and/or pump.
The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean “about 40 mm.”
Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or related patent or application and any patent application or patent to which this application claims priority or benefit thereof, is hereby incorporated herein by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or in any combination with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests or discloses any such invention. Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall govern.
While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this invention.
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 63352271 | Jun 2022 | US |
