Patent Application
20220160613
An object of the present invention is a complexion base in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion comprising at least one leguminous starch having an amylose content higher than or equal to 30%, at least one plasticiser selected from polyols, at least one oil and at least one emulsifying agent. The invention also relates to the use of such a complexion base to improve long-lasting of the makeup over time, preferably to improve resistance to sweat and sebum.
Products for making up keratinous materials, in particular skin foundations, are usually applied in the form of a uniform thin layer. Nonetheless, by the effect of sebum and/or sweat secretion, the colour and the mattity conferred by the skin foundation tend to deteriorate throughout the day. Hence, works are continually carried out to improve holding over time of the colour, so that the latter is not deteriorated or attenuated throughout the day by the effect of sebum or sweat. It is also desirable that the improvement of the persistence of the make-up is not accompanied with difficulties for the user when removing make-up.
To confer a good holding of colour and mattity of make-up compositions, it is known to provide complexion bases, generally comprising absorbent charges which are intended to absorb sebum and sweat to protect the make-up throughout the day.
Complexion bases may also implement film-forming polymers to form a protective film before the application of the make-up. Nonetheless, film-forming complexion bases nowadays use synthetic polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) or polyvinyl acetate (PVA). Yet, consumers increasingly look for cosmetic products essentially composed by natural or nature-derived ingredients, having as few chemical modifications as possible. The suppression of synthetic functional ingredients, or their substitution with nature-derived ingredients is a major axis of development of new cosmetic products. However, the introduction of these natural or nature-derived ingredients comes together with a degradation of the properties of the cosmetic product, in terms of appearance, application or cosmetic properties. These insufficient or degraded cosmetic properties are detrimental to the image of the product.
Furthermore, the use of a complexion base prior to the application of the make-up is often accompanied with a burling phenomenon when applying the make-up, which of course should be avoided.
Hence, there is still a need for a complexion base implementing natural or nature-derived ingredients, capable of forming a continuous, homogeneous, comfortable film over the keratinous materials, allowing guaranteeing a long-lasting make-up that resists sweat and sebum in particular, does not migrate while being easy to remove and which does not burl during application.
The Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that such a complexion base could be obtained by associating a very specific leguminous starch, a plasticiser and an emulsifier in a cosmetic emulsion.
Thus, an object of the invention, according to a first aspect, is a complexion base in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-water emulsion comprising:
Another object of the invention, according to a second aspect, is a method for preparing such a complexion base.
Still another object of the invention, according to a third aspect, is a method for making up or for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, consisting in applying on said keratinous materials, in particular the skin, a complexion base as described before.
Finally, an object of the invention is a cosmetic use of a complexion base as described before to improve holding over time of the make-up, preferably to improve the resistance to sweat and to sebum.
Galenic Formulation
The complexion base according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.
Leguminous Starch
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one leguminous starch having an amylose content greater than or equal to 30%, preferentially between 30% and 75%.
In particular, the amylose content lies in a range from 30% to 75%, preferably from 30% to 45%, and preferably again from 35% to 40%. The percentages of amylose are expressed by dry weight, with respect to the dry weight of starch, and determined before any subsequent treatment such as hydrolysis and/or alkylation of said starch.
The leguminous starch also has a Brookfield viscosity in aqueous dispersion at 25° C. with 20% dry matter of between 10 and 10,000 mPa·s, preferentially between 20 and 5000 mPa·s, more preferentially between 50 and 1000 mPa·s, most preferentially between 75 and 500 mPa·s, and even more preferentially around 150 mPa·s.
The Brookfield viscosity in aqueous dispersion at 25° C. at 20% by weight dry matter is preferably between 10 and 10,000 mPa·s, preferentially between 20 and 5000 mPa·s, more preferentially between 50 and 1000 mPa·s, most preferentially between 75 and 500 mPa·s, and even more preferentially around 150 mPa·s. These variants of Brookfield viscosity may be combined with the amylose content variants.
The viscosity within the meaning of the present invention is a Brookfield viscosity determined by means for example of a Brookfield RDVD-I+ viscometer (Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, INC. Middleboro, Mass., USA) using one of the spindles referenced RV1, RV2, RV3, RV4, RV5, RV6 or RV7 and without the use of the equipment called “Helipath Stand”. The rotation of the spindle is fixed at 20 revolutions per minute. The spindle, from RV1 to RV7, is selected so that the viscosity value displayed is between 10% and 100% of the total viscosity scale possible with said spindle, as indicated by the manufacturer. To make this measurement of viscosity, 300 ml of an aqueous suspension or aqueous solution with 20% by weight dry matter of starch prepared at 25° C. under mechanical stirring, for example with a deflocculating blade at 250 rpm for 15 minutes, is placed in a 400 ml low-shaped beaker (diameter approximately 7.5 cm). The viscosity value is taken at the end of the 3rd rotation. The measurement is made in accordance with all the recommendations given by the manufacturer for obtaining a reliable viscosity measurement, for example in the manual “Operating Instructions, Manual No. M/92-021-M0101, Brookfield Digital Viscometer, Model DV-I+)”.
“Leguminous” within the meaning of the present invention means any plant belonging to the Caesalpiniaceae, Mimosaceae or Papilionaceae families and in particular any plant belonging to the Papilionaceae family such as for example peas, haricot beans, broad beans, horse beans, lentils or lupins.
Thus the leguminous starch can be selected from pea starches, chickpea starches, broad-bean starches, horse-bean starches, haricot-bean starches or lentil starches.
According to a preferred embodiment, the leguminous starch is a pea starch, and most preferentially a Pisum sativum starch.
Furthermore, the leguminous starch may be a pregelatinised native starch, or a chemically modified starch, optionally pregelatinised.
The chemically modified leguminous starches may be selected from the leguminous starches that have undergone at least one chemical modification, preferably at least two chemical modifications, selected from hydroxyalkylations, carboalkylations, hydrolyses, dextrinifications, succinylation, alkylation, acetylation, cationisation or anionisation. These chemical modifications are modifications for stabilising the leguminous starch, in other words stabilising the viscosity in aqueous solution, in that they make it possible to reduce or eliminate the retrogradation of a gel or of an aqueous solution of said starch.
Thus the modified leguminous starch used in the context of the present invention may be a hydroxyalkylated, carboxyalkylated or hydrolysed leguminous starch, a dextrin, or a combination thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the leguminous starch used in the context of the present invention is a hydrolysed and hydroxyalkylated leguminous starch. According to an especially preferred variant, the leguminous starch used in the context of the present invention is a hydrolysed and hydroxypropylated leguminous starch.
“Hydroxypropylated leguminous starch” within the meaning of the present invention means a leguminous starch substituted by hydroxypropyl groups by any technique known to a person skilled in the art, for example by etherification reaction with propylene oxide. In the context of the invention, a hydroxypropylated leguminous starch preferably has a hydroxypropyl group content of between 0.1 to 20% by dry weight, with respect to the dry weight of hydroxypropylated starch, preferentially between 1 and 10% by weight, more preferentially between 5 and 9% by weight, and in particular close to 7% by weight. This content is in particular determined by proton nuclear magnetic resonance spectrometry, in particular in accordance with EN ISO 11543:2002 F.
“Hydrolysed leguminous starch”, within the meaning of the present invention, means a leguminous starch that has been subjected to a hydrolysis operation, i.e. an operation aimed at reducing the mean molecular mass thereof. A person skilled in the art knows how to obtain such starches, for example by chemical treatments such as oxidation and acid treatments, or by enzymatic treatments. A person skilled in the art will naturally adjust the level of hydrolysis, and therefore of fluidification, of the starch, according to the required viscosity.
In the context of the invention, a hydrolysed and optionally pregelatinized starch, and/or having chemical modifications other than described previously, preferably has a weight average molecular weight of between 1 and 2000 kDa, preferably 10 to 1000 kDa, most preferably 20 to 1000 kDa, and even more preferentially 100 to 1000 kDa. For example, the molecular weight may be from 200 to 800 kDa, from 200 to 500 kDa, from 200 to 400 kDa, or from 200 to 300 kDa. The weight average molecular weight being determined by HPSEC-MALLS (high-performance size-exclusion chromatography coupled with on-line multi-angle laser light scattering).
In particular, the starch after alkylation and hydrolysis will preferably be non-granular.
A hydrolysed and hydroxypropylated starch that can be used in a preferred manner in the context of the present invention is for example commercially available under the trade reference LYCOAT RS 720 or LYCOAT NG 720 from the company Roquette Freres.
Apart from these chemical modifications, the starch according to the invention may furthermore have undergone physical treatments, in particular selected from the known operations of gelatinisation, pre-gelatinisation, extrusion, atomisation or drying, microwave or ultrasound treatment operations, plasticisation or granulation.
In particular, the starch according to the invention may preferably be made soluble. It may be made soluble by any technique known to a person skilled in the art, in particular by heat and/or mechanical treatment, for example by a baking operation in an aqueous medium (pre-gelatinisation), optionally followed by a drying step when obtaining a powdery product is required. The operation aimed at making the starch soluble may entirely occur before or after the alkylation and/or the hydrolysis of the starch. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrolysed and hydroxyalkylated starch is pre-gelatinised. Such a starch is commercially available under the trade reference LYCOAT RS 720 from the company Roquette Freres. Alternatively to pre-gelatinisation, it is possible to gelatinise the starch during the preparation of the composition in which it will be used.
The hydrolysed and hydroxyalkylated leguminous starch, optionally pre-gelatinised according to the invention, may also comprise any other physical and/or chemical modification, provided that this does not interfere with the required properties of said starch. One example of chemical modification is in particular crosslinking.
Plasticiser
The complexion base according to the invention also comprises at least one plasticiser selected from the polyols.
Polyol means any organic molecule having in the structure thereof at least two free hydroxy (—OH) groups. These polyols are preferably liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.).
As examples of polyols that are suited for implementation in the complexion base, these may be selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols (PEGs) having in particular from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units and/or sorbitol.
The polyols are preferably glycerol and sorbitol, preferably again in a mixture with pentylene glycol.
In a particularly preferred embodiment, the complexion base according to the invention does not comprise any plasticiser other than the polyols described above.
According to a particular embodiment, the complexion base according to the invention comprises from 10 to 30% by weight of polyols, preferably from 13 to 25% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the complexion base.
In particular, the complexion base may comprise:
Aqueous Phase
The complexion base according to the invention also comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally, at least one water-soluble solvent other than the polyols described above.
“Water-soluble solvent” means, in the present invention, a compound liquid at ambient temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure).
The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention may be volatile.
Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention can be made in particular of the mono-alcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprising at least one mono-alcohol having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.
Introducing a mono-alcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms, facilitates and accelerates the drying of the film.
According to a particular embodiment, the complexion base according to the invention comprises from 25 to 65% by weight of water, preferably from 30 to 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the complexion base.
Hydrophilic Gelling Agent
The complexion base according to the invention may also comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent.
Gelling agent, means a compound which, in the presence of a solvent, creates more or less strong intermacromolecular bonds thus giving rise to a three-dimensional lattice that fixes said solvent.
The hydrophilic gelling agent can be selected from polysaccharides, protein derivatives, synthesis or semisynthesis gels of the polyester type, in particular sulfonic, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and the derivatives thereof.
Among the polysaccharides, mention can be made of:
Among polyacrylates, mention can be made of: crosslinked 25 EO polymers of acrylic acid, methylacrylate and polyoxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate (INCI name: Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), such as the one sold under the name Novethix L-10 Polymer by the company Lubrizol Advanced Materials, or Rheostyl™ 90 N from Arkema (INCI: Acrylates/Beheneth-Methacrylate copolymer).
The hydrophilic gelling agent is preferably selected from polysaccharides, and preferably again from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and a mixture thereof, for example the mixture sold under the name Actigum VSX 20 by the company Cargill.
According to a preferred embodiment, the mixture of xanthan gum and sclerotium gum has a ratio by weight (xanthan:sclerotium) of between 1:2 and 2:1.
Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in the complexion base according to the invention at a concentration that could range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, still preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the complexion base.
Emulsifying Agent
The complexion base according to the invention may also comprise an emulsifying agent.
These emulsifying agents may be selected among non-ionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants or polymeric surfactants.
According to one embodiment, the surfactants that can be used in the context of the invention are selected from non-ionic surfactants with an HLB of between 8 and 20 at 25° C. Mention can be made in particular of:
where R is a fatty acid chain, comprising in particular from 10 to 25 carbon atoms, preferably from 15 to 20. Preferably, the lysophospholipid used in the composition of the invention comes from soya seeds. Preferably again, its INCI name is glycine soya (soya bean) seed extract. For example, use is made of the mixture of glycerine at 80% by weight and of glycine soya (soya bean) seed extract at 20% by weight sold by Kemin by the name Lysofix Liquid®;
According to a preferred embodiment, the emulsifier with an HLB of between 8 and 20 is selected from fatty acid esters and oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers, lysophospholipids, emulsifying waxes such as autoemulsifier waxes or hydrolysated waxes, and mixtures thereof.
Lysophospholipids such as Lysofix Liquid® afford a thickening of the composition, thus improving the spread thereof.
According to one embodiment, the surfactants that can be used in the emulsion according to the invention are selected from the non-ionic surfactants with an HLB of less than or equal to 8 at 25° C. Mention can be made in particular of:
According to a preferred embodiment, the non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8 at 25° C. is selected from fatty acid and polyol esters, preferably polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate such as the one sold under the reference Cithrol PG32IS-LQ by the company Croda (INCI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate).
The composition according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of an emulsifying agent, with respect to the total weight of said composition, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 13% by weight.
Film-Forming Agent
The complexion base according to the invention may also comprise an additional film-forming agent other than starch, in particular a film-forming polymer.
Among the film-forming polymers than can be used in the compositions of the present invention, mention can be made of synthetic polymers of the radical type or of the polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
Radical film-forming polymer means a polymer obtained by polymerising unsaturated monomers, in particular ethylenic, each monomer being able to homopolymerise (unlike polycondensates).
The film-forming polymers of the radical type may in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.
The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerisation of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and/or esters of these acid monomers and/or amides of these acid monomers.
As a monomer carrying an acid group, use can be made of α,βethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or itaconic acid. Preferably use is made of methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferentially itaconic acid (for example a metal salt of polyitaconic acid such as the one sold under the commercial reference RevCare NE 100S by the company Itaconix).
The esters of acid monomers are advantageously selected from esters of methacrylic acid (also referred to as methacrylates), in particular alkyl methacrylates, especially C1-C30 alkyl, preferably C1-C20, aryl methacrylates, in particular C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl methacrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.
Among alkyl methacrylates, mention can be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, ethyl-2 hexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate and cyclohexyl methacrylate.
Among the hydroxyalkyl methacrylates, mention can be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
Among the aryl methacrylates, mention can be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
The methacrylic acid esters that are particularly preferred are the alkyl methacrylates.
According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters may be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.
As amides of the acid monomers, mention can be made for example of methacrylamides, and particular N-alkyl methacrylamides, especially C2-C12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl methacrylamides, mention can be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-tert-butyl acrylamide, N-tert-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.
Vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerisation or copolymerisation of monomers selected from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers may be polymerised with acid monomers and/or esters thereof and/or amides thereof, such as those mentioned previously.
As an example of vinyl esters, mention can be made of vinyl acetate, vinyl neodeconoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl tert-butyl benzoate.
As styrene monomers, mention can be made of styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.
Among film-forming polycondensates, mention can be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxyester resins, polyureas.
The polyurethanes may be selected from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.
Polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.
The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Mention can be made as an example of such acids: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid and 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or in combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, preferably phthalic acid, isophthalic acid or terephthalic acid is selected.
The diol may be selected from aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic diols. Use is preferably made of a diol selected from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol and 4-butanediol. As other polyols, use can be made of glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol or trimethylol propane.
Polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amine alcohols. As a diamine, use can be made of ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine. As amino alcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.
The polyester may furthermore comprise at least one monomer carrying at least one —SO3M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4+ or a metal ion, such as for example an Na+, Li+, K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Fe3+ ion. In particular a bifunctional aromatic monomer including such a —SO3M group can be used.
The aromatic core of the bifunctional aromatic monomer furthermore carrying a —SO3M group as described above can be selected for example from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl or methylenediphenyl cores. Mention can be made, as an example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer furthermore carrying a —SO3M group, of: sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.
It is preferred to use copolymers based on isophthalate/sulfoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of di-ethyleneglycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid or sulfoisophthalic acid.
The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, can be selected from shellac resin, sandarac gum, gum arabic (acacia senegal gum), dammars, elemis, copals, cellulose polymers, polymers extracted from the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and/or from the alga Kappaphycus alvarezii (such as the product Filmexel® sold by the company Silab), and mixtures thereof. A natural polymer such as Filmexel® in particular improves the strength of the film obtained from the composition according to the invention.
According to a first embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and may then be present in the aqueous continuous phase of the composition according to the invention.
According to a second embodiment, the film-forming polymer may also be present in a composition of the invention in the form of particles in dispersion. In an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase, generally known by the term latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to persons skilled in the art.
As an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, use can be made of the acrylic dispersion sold under the names Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Dow Latex 432® by the company Dow Chemical, Daitosol 5000 AD® or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo; Syntran 5760® by the company Interpolymer, Allianz OPT by the company Rohm & Haas, the aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene-acrylic polymers sold under the brand name Joncryl® by the company Johnson Polymer or the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names Neorez R-981® and Neorez R-974® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875®, Sancure 861®, Sancure 878® and Sancure 2060® by the company Goodrich, Impranil 85® by the company Bayer, Aquamere H-1511® by the company Hydromer; the sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ® by the company Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomere PAM® by the company Chimex and mixtures thereof.
As examples of non-aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer, mention can be made of acrylic dispersions in isododecane such as Mexomere PAP® from the company CHIMEX, dispersions of particles of a grafted ethylene polymer, preferably acrylic, in a liquid fatty phase, the ethylene polymer advantageously being dispersed in the absence of an additional stabiliser on the surface of the particles as described in particular in the document WO 04/055081.
According to a third embodiment, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilised in a liquid fatty phase comprising oils or organic solvents (it is then said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer).
By way of example of liposoluble polymer, mention can be made of the vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly bonded to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group) and of at least one other monomer that may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (the alkyl group of which includes 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group).
These copolymers may be crosslinked by means of crosslinking agents that may be either of the vinyl type or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate and divinyl octadecanedioate.
As examples of these copolymers, mention can be made of the following copolymers: vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate/octadecene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/allyl laurate, vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate/octadecene-1, vinyl acetate/dodecene-1, vinyl stearate/ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, vinyl dimethyl-2,2-octanoate/vinyl laurate, allyl dimethyl-2,2-pentanoate/vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate/vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate/octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, and allyl propionate/allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene.
As liposoluble film-forming polymers, mention can also be made of liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from copolymerisation of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, or allyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
Such liposoluble copolymers may be selected from the copolymers of vinyl polystearate, of vinyl polystearate crosslinked by means of divinyl benzene, of diallyl ether or of diallyl phthalate, the copolymers of stearyl polymethacrylate, of vinyl polylaurate, of lauryl polymethacrylate, these polymethacrylates being able to be crosslinked by means of methylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.
The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in the application FR-A-2232303; they may have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4000 to 200,000.
Mention can also be made of the liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerisation of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.
As examples of liposoluble homopolymers, mention can be made in particular of: vinyl polylaurate and lauryl polymethacrylates, these polymethacrylates being able to be crosslinked by means of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.
As liposoluble film-forming polymers that can be used in the invention, mention can also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular the copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a C1 to C8 linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or not, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and C2 to C40 and better C3 to C20 alkene. By way of example of a copolymer of VP that can be used in the invention, mention can be made of the copolymer of VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene, and VP/methacrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate.
Mention can also be made of silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. Silicone resins are known by the name “MDTQ”, the resin being described according to the various siloxane monomeric units that it comprises, each of the letters “MDTQ” characterising a type of the unit.
By way of examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention can be made of those that are sold by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS MK, and by the company Shin-Etsu under the references KR-220L.
As siloxysilicate resins, mention can be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention can also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name “KF-7312J” by the company Shin-Etsu, and “Dowsil™ RSN-0749” and “Dowsil™ 593 Fluid” by the company Dow Corning.
Mention can also be made of the copolymers of silicone resins such as those cited above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers sold by the company Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA and those described in the document U.S. Pat. No. 5,162,410 or the silicone copolymers resulting from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and of a diorganosiloxane such as those described in the document WO 2004/073626.
Finally, mention can be made of acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer comprising a dendrimer carboxysiloxane structure grafted onto a vinyl skeleton available commercially under the references Dow Corning FA 4002 ID or Dow Corning FA 4001 CM.
Use can also be made of the silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in the documents U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,874,069, 5,919,441, 6,051,216 and 5,981,680.
According to a preferred embodiment, the additional film-forming polymer is selected from the polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, preferably from the polymers extracted from the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and/or from the alga Kappaphycus alvarezii (such as the product Filmexel® sold by the company Silab).
In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any film-forming polymer other than the leguminous starch.
Silicone Elastomers
The complexion base according to the invention may also comprise a silicone elastomer.
Adding a silicone elastomer makes it possible in particular to limit the phenomenon of fluffing liable to manifest when the composition according to the invention is applied.
Among these, mention can be made of the at least partially crosslinked polymers resulting from the reaction of an organopolysiloxane carrying unsaturated groups, such as vinyl or allyl groups, located at the end or at the middle of a chain, preferably on a silicon atom, with another reactive silicone compound such as an organohydrogenopolysiloxane. These polymers are normally available in the form of a gel in a volatile or non-volatile silicone solvent or in a hydrocarbon solvent. Examples of such elastomers are in particular sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the trade names KSG-6, KSG-16, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44, and by the company Dow Corning under the trade names Dowsil™ 9040 and Dowsil™ 9041. Another oily gelling agent consists of a silicone polymer, obtained by auto-polymerisation of an organopolysiloxane functionalised by epoxy groups and hydrosilylated in the presence of a catalyst, which is commercially available from the company General Electric under the trade name Velvesil® 125. Another lipophilic gelling agent consists of a cyclic dimethicone/vinyldimethicone copolymer such as the one sold by the company Jeen under the trade name Jeesilc® PS (including PS-VH, PS-VHLV, PS-CM, PS-CMLV and PS-DM).
According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone elastomer may be emulsifying, preferably selected from the polyoxyalkylenated and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.
As polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, mention can be made of those described in the U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,236,986, 5,412,004, 5,837,793, 5,811,487.
As polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, the following can be used: those with the INCI name PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer: such as those sold under the names “KSG-21”, “KSG-20”, by Shin-Etsu;—those with the INCI name Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer: such as those sold under the names “KSG-30” and “KSG-31”, KSG-32” (in isododecane), “KSG-33” (in trioctanoin), “KSG-210”, “KSG-310” (in a mineral oil), “KSG-320” (in isododecane), “KSG-330”, “KSG-340” by the company Shin-Etsu.
As polyglycerol silicone elastomers, the following can be used:—those with the INCI name Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer: such as those sold under the names “KSG-710” by Shin-Etsu; those with the INCI name Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer: such as those sold under the names “KSG-840” (in squalene) by the company Shin-Etsu.
Oils
The complexion base according to the invention may comprise at least one oil selected from volatile oils and/or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
“Volatile oil” means, within the meaning of the invention, an oil liable to evaporate in contact with keratin fibres in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent or solvents and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10−3 at 300 mm of Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm of Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm of Hg).
The volatile oil may be hydrocarbon. The hydrocarbon volatile oil may be selected from the hydrocarbon oils having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms. As a hydrocarbon volatile oil having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, mention can be made in particular of the C8-C16 branched alkanes such as the C8-C16 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, the C8-C16 branched esters such as iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably the hydrocarbon volatile oil having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is selected from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof, and is in particular isododecane.
The volatile oil may be a volatile linear alkane. According to one embodiment, an alkane suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms. Such a volatile linear alkane may advantageously be of plant origin. By way of example of alkanes suitable for the invention, mention can be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007/1068371, or WO 2008/155059 (distinct mixtures of alkanes differing by at least one carbon atom). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil. By way of example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention can be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, mention can be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained at examples 1 and 2 of the application WO 2008/15505 of the company Cognis. Mention can also be made of the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) sold by the company BASF under the name Cetiol Ultimate. Mention can also be made of the n-dodecane (C12) and the n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as mixtures thereof. It will be possible to use the volatile linear alkane alone or preferentially a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a number of carbon atoms of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a number of carbon atoms of 1 or 2.
The volatile oil may be a volatile silicone oil such as cyclic polysiloxanes linear polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof. As linear volatile polysiloxanes, mention can be made of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. As cyclic volatile polysiloxanes, mention can be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcylotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
In a variant or additionally, the composition produced may comprise at least one fluorinated volatile oil.
“Non-volatile oil” means an oil remaining on the keratin fibres at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure at least for several hours and having in particular a vapour pressure of less than 103 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).
The non-volatile oils may in particular be selected from hydrocarbon or fluorinated oils and/or non-volatile silicone oils.
As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, mention can be made in particular of:
Waxes
The complexion base according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.
The wax considered in the context of the present invention is in general terms a lipophilic compound, solid at ambient temperature (25° C.), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point higher than or equal to 30° C., which may range up to 120° C.
In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point above approximately 45° C., and in particular above 55° C. The melting point of the wax can be measured by means of a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold by the name DSC 30 by the company Metler.
The waxes able to be used in the compositions according to the invention are selected from solid waxes, deformable or not at ambient temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and mixtures thereof.
The wax may also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa, and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20° C. using the texturometer sold by the name TA-TX2i by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
It is in particular possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, ouricurry wax, asparto grass wax, cork-fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers as well as esters thereof. A mixture of jojoba wax, mimosa wax and sunflower wax is for example sold under the reference ACTICIRE MP by the company Gattefossé. In particular, the hydrocarbon-based waxes may be selected from Carnauba wax, beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax and mixtures thereof.
Mention can also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having C8-C32 linear or branched fatty chains.
Among these, mention can in particular be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated ricin oil, hydrogenated copra oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name “HEST 2T-4S” by the company Heterene, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company Heterene.
Use can also be made of the waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as ricin or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in the application FR-A-2792190.
Use can also be made of silicone waxes, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably with a low melting point. These silicone waxes are known and can be prepared in accordance with known methods. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention can be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin-Etsu), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric), alkyl- or alcoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428. 2434 and 2440 (Goldschmidt), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (Wacker), as well as the (C20-C60) alkyldimethicones, in particular the (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.
Hydrocarbon-based waxes modified by silicone-based or fluorinated groups can also be used, such as for example: siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax from Koster Keunen.
The waxes may also be selected from fluorinated waxes.
According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one wax known as tacky wax. As a tacky wax, use can be made of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, in particular a C20C40 alkyl 12-(12′-hydroxystearyloxy) stearate. Such a wax is in particular sold under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company Koster Keunen.
According to a preferred embodiment, the waxes are selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes, preferably selected from Carnauba wax, beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax and mixtures thereof.
Lipophilic Gelling Agents
Another type of lipophilic gelling agent is formed by copolymers of styrene and olefins such as ethylene, propylene and/or butylene, optionally associated with silicone or hydrocarbon solvents, as described in particular in the application WO 98/38981 and in U.S. Pat. No. 6,309,629. They comprise in particular the gelling agents based on sequenced terpolymers available from the company Penreco under the trade name VersageL®. Another type of lipophilic gelling agent consists of polyamides such as those identified by the INCI name polyamide-3 and in particular the polymers Sylvaclear® AF 1900V and PA 1200V available from the company Arizona Chemical, as well as those identified by the INCI name “Ethylenediamine/Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 Alkyl Amide” and available for example under the trade name Sylvaclear® A200V or Sylvaclear® A2614V from the company Arizona Chemical. The lipophilic gelling agent may in a variant be a bentone or a hydrophobic modified hectorite.
Colouring Agent
The complexion base according to the invention may also comprise a colouring agent selected from pigments, nacres, soluble dyes, preferably water-soluble dyes.
By “pigments”, it should be understood white or coloured particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to colour and/or opacify the complexion base and/or the resulting film.
The pigments may be white or coloured, mineral and/or organic.
The pigment may be an organic pigment. By organic pigment, it should be understood any pigment that meets the definition of Ullmann's encyclopaedia in the organic pigment chapter. In particular, the organic pigment may be selected from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoleine, anthraquinone, phtalocyanine compounds, of the metallic complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, dicetopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophtalone.
The organic pigment or pigments may be selected for example from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorgho red, the blue pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references C1 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidising polymerisation of indolic and phenolic derivatives as described in the patent FR 2 679 771.
These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in the patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles including an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder fixing the organic pigments to the core.
The pigment may also be a lacquer. Lacquer means the insolubilised dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. By way of examples of lacquers, mention can be made of the product known by the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
The pigment may be a mineral pigment. Mineral pigment means any pigment that complies with the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Mention can be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as the oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminium powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in a mixture with TiCO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.
The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 10 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 5 μm, and more preferentially between 30 nm and 1 μm.
The colouring agent may also be a soluble dye, preferably soluble in water.
Among the water-soluble dyes, mention can be made of cochineal carmine or the products known by the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985). D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
The nacres may be selected from those conventionally present in make-up products, such as mica/titanium dioxide. In a variant, it may be a case of nacres based on mica/silica/titanium dioxide, based on synthetic fluorphlogopite/titanium dioxide (Sunshine® from Maprecos), calcium sodium borosilicate/titanium dioxide (Reflecks® from Engelhard) or calcium aluminium borosilicate/silica/titanium dioxide (Ronastar® from Merck).
The complexion base according to the invention may comprise from 0.0001 to 30% by weight of colouring agent, preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.002 to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the complexion base according to the invention.
Fillers
The complexion base according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler. In particular, these fillers are intended to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.
The fillers may be mineral or organic of any form, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example flake, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention can be made of talc, mica, silica, silica surface treated by a hydrophobic agent, kaolin, polyamide powders (Nylon®) (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene/acrylonitrile chloride such as Expancel® (Nobel Industries), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning) and silicon resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrogencarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example magnesium or lithium zinc stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.
Cosmetic Active Substance
The complexion base according to the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active substance, which could be selected in the group consisting of vitamins, antioxidants, hydrating agents, anti-pollution agents, keratolytic agents, astringents, anti-inflammatories, whiteners, self-tanning agents and agents promoting microcirculation.
Examples of vitamins include vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, C and E and derivatives thereof, pantothenic and derivatives thereof and biotin.
Examples of antioxidants include ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof such as ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl sorbate; tocopherol and derivates thereof, such as tocopherol acetate, tocopherol sorbate and other tocopherol esters; BHT and BHA; esters of gallic acid, phosphoric acid, citric acid, maleic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid and fumaric acid, cephalin, hexametaphosphate, phytic acid, and plant extracts, for example roots of Zingiber officinale (ginger) such as the Blue Malagasy Ginger sold by the company Biolandes, Chondrus crispus, Rhodiola, Thermus thermophilus, mate leaf, oak wood, Kayu Rapet bark, Sakura leaves and ylang ylang leaves.
Examples of hydrating agents include polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerine, butylene glycol, xylitol, sorbitol, maltitol and mucopolysaccharides, such as chondroitin sulfuric acid, hyaluronic acid of high or low molecular weight or hyaluronic acid potentialized by a silanol derivative such as the Epidermosil® active agent sold by the company Exymol, and mucoitinsulfuric acid; caronic acid; atelo collagen; chloresteryl-12-hydroxystearate; biliary salts, a principal component of NHF (natural hydration factor) such as a pyrrolidone carboxylic acid salt and a lactic acid salt, an amino acid analogue such as urea, cysteine and serine; a short-chain soluble collagen, PPG diglycerine, homo- and copolymers of 2-methacryloyloxyethylphosphorylcholine such as Lipidure HM and Lipidure PBM from NOF; allantoin; glycerine derivatives such as PEG/PPG/polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerine from NOF sold by the trade name Wilbride® S753, or glyceryl-polymethacrylate from Sederma sold under the trade name Lubragel® MS; the trimethylglycin sold under the trade name Aminocoat® by the company Asahi Kasei Chemicals, and various extracts of plants such as extracts of Castanea sativa, hydrolysed hazelnut proteins, polysaccharides of Tuberosa polyanthes, Argania spinosa kernel oil and extracts of nacres containing a conchiolin that are sold in particular by the company Maruzen (Japan) under the trade name Pearl Extract®.
Other examples of hydrating agents include the compounds stimulating the expression of matriptase MT/SP1, such as an extract of carob pulp, as well as the agents stimulating the expression of CERT, ARNT2 or FN3K or FN3K RP; the agents increasing the proliferation or differentiation of keratinocytes, either directly, or indirectly by stimulating for example the production of β-endorphins, such as the extracts of Thermus thermophilus or of Theobroma cacao bean hulls, water-soluble extracts of maize, peptide extracts of Voandzeia subterranea and niacinamide; epidermal lipids and agents increasing the synthesis of epidermal lipids, either directly, or by stimulating certain β-glucosidases that modulate the deglycosylation of lipid precursors such as glucosylceramide into ceramides, such as phospholipids, ceramides, lupin protein hydrolysates and dihydrojasmonic acid derivatives.
Examples of anti-pollution agents include extracts of Moringa pterygosperma seed extract (for example Purisoft® from LSN); shea butter extract (for example Detoxyl® from Silab), a mixture of extract of ivy, phytic acid and sunflower seed extract (for example Osmopur® from Sederma).
Examples of keratolytic agents include the α-hydroxyacids (for example the glycolic, lactic, citric, malic, mandelic or tartric acids), and the β-hydroxyacids (for example salicylic acid), and esters thereof, such as the C12-13 alkyl lactates, and the extracts of plants containing these hydroxyacids, such as extracts of Hibiscus sabdariffa.
Examples of astringents include extracts of hamamelis.
Examples of anti-inflammatories include bisabolol, allantoin, tranexamic acid, zinc oxide, sulfur oxide and derivates thereof, chondroitin sulfate, glycyrrhizinic acid and derivatives thereof such as glycyrrhizinates.
Examples of whiteners include arbutin and derivatives thereof, ferulic acid (such as Cytovector®: water, glycol, lethicin, ferulic acid, hydroxyethylcellulose, sold by BASF) and derivatives thereof, kojic acid, resorcinol, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof such as resveratrol diacetate monolipoate as described in the patent application WO 2006/134282, ellagic acid, leucodopachrome and derivates thereof, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and derivatives thereof, ceramides and homologues thereof, a peptide as described in the patent application WO 2009/010356, a bioprecursor as described in the patent application WO 2006/134282 or a tranexamate salt such as the cetyl tranexamate hydrochloride salt, an extract of liquorice (extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra), which is sold in particular by the company Maruzen under the trade name Liquorice Extract®, a whitener also having an antioxidant effect, such as the vitamin C compounds, including the ascorbate salts, the ascorbyl esters of fatty acids or of ascorbic acid, and other derivates of ascorbic acid, for example ascorbyl phosphates, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, or the esters of ascorbic acid saccharide, which include, for example, ascorbyl-2-glucoside, L-ascorbate of 2-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl, or L-ascorbate of 6-O-beta-D-galactopyranosyl. An active agent of this type is sold in particular by the company DKSH under the trade name Ascorbyl Glucoside®.
An example of a self-tanning agent is DHA.
Examples of agents favouring microcirculation include an extract of lupin (such as Eclaline® from Silab), of butcher's broom, of horse chestnut, of ivy, of ginseng or of melilot, caffeine, nicotinate and derivatives thereof, an extract of Corallina officinalis alga such as the one sold by CODIF; and mixtures thereof. These agents active on skin microcirculation may be used to avoid dulling of the complexion and/or to improve homogenisation and radiance of the complexion.
The complexion base according to the invention may comprise from 0.0001 to 10% by weight of a cosmetic active substance, preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.002 to 1% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the complexion base according to the invention.
Additives
The complexion base according to the invention may comprise other ingredients provided that these do not interfere with the desired properties of the complexion base. These other ingredients may for example be preservatives, pH adjusters such a citric acid or arginine, antimicrobial agents, perfumes, sun blockers, and mixtures thereof.
Preparation Method
Another object of the present invention is a method for preparing a complexion base in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention, comprising:
According to another embodiment, another object of the invention is a method for preparing a complexion base in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention, comprising:
Method for Making Up Keratin Materials
The present invention also relates to a method for making up or for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, consisting in applying on said keratinous materials, in particular the skin, a complexion base according to the present invention, characterised in that a first layer of a complexion base according to the present invention is applied on the skin, and then a second layer of a second composition comprising a cosmetically-acceptable medium and at least one colouring agent is applied on a portion of said first layer.
A complexion base in the form of a water-in-oil form having the composition disclosed in the following Table 1 has been prepared:
The complexion base has been prepared according to the following protocol:
1—weight the aqueous phase comprising water, glycerine, sorbitol, pentylene glycol and the preservative and put it under Rayneri stirring,
2—add LYCOAT RS 720 under stirring 10 min at 250 rpm until a gel is formed,
3—mix CITHROL, KSG-210 and CETIOL ULTIMATE under stirring in a rotor-stator at 245 rpm for 5 min,
4—add the pigments under stirring in a rotor-stator at 350 rpm in the fatty phase
The obtained complexion base is fluid and homogeneous, it can be applied easily without burling. The film formed on the skin protects the make-up from sweat and sebum throughout the day. Hence, the foundation applied on this complexion base has a durable holding of its colour and mattity foover time.
A complexion base has been prepared in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having the composition presented in Table 1 of Example 1, wherein the pre-gelatinised pea starch has been replaced by the same pea starch but not pre-gelatinised, LYCOAT NG 720 from the company Roquette Freres.
To prepare this complexion base, the aqueous phase is mixed under stirring at 85° C. before the addition of LYCOAT NG 720. The rest of the process remains unchanged. Once the emulsion is formed, it is left to cool under stirring down to room temperature.
The obtained complexion base is fluid and homogeneous, it can be applied easily without burling. The film formed on the skin protects the make-up from sweat and sebum throughout the day. Hence, the foundation applied on this complexion base has a durable holding of its colour and mattity over time.
A complexion base in the form of an oil-in-water form having the composition disclosed in the following Table 3 has been prepared:
The complexion base has been prepared according to the following protocol:
The obtained complexion base is fluid and homogeneous, it can be applied easily without burling. The film formed on the skin protects the make-up from sweat and sebum throughout the day. Hence, the foundation applied on this complexion base has a durable holding of its colour and mattity over time.
A complexion base has been prepared in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion having the composition presented in Table 3 of Example 3, wherein the pre-gelatinised pea starch has been replaced by the same pea starch but not pre-gelatinised, LYCOAT NG 720 from the company Roquette Freres.
To prepare this complexion base, the aqueous phase is mixed under stirring at 85° C. before the addition of LYCOAT NG 720. The rest of the process remains unchanged. Once the emulsion is formed, it is left to cool under stirring down to room temperature.
The obtained complexion base is fluid and homogeneous, it can be applied easily without burling. The film formed on the skin protects the make-up from sweat and sebum throughout the day. Hence, the foundation applied on this complexion base has a durable holding of its colour and mattity over time.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR 190 3375 | Mar 2019 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2020/058672 | 3/27/2020 | WO | 00 |
