Patent Application
20250188651
The present invention relates to a polyamide composite false twisted yarn, a woven/knitted fabric, and a garment.
Conventionally, in garment fibers, stretchability has been imparted mainly to polyester fibers in order to improve wearing comfort by improving motion followability at the time of wearing and to efficiently exhibit a motion function. In addition, in recent years, it is required to impart texture such as bulkiness and softness in addition to stretchability.
So far, in polyamide fibers that are softer and have better touch than polyester fibers, for example, fibers in which polyamides having different compositions are combined into side-by-side type as disclosed in Patent Document 1 have been proposed.
In addition, in order to obtain bulkiness, for example, a mixed yarn of side-by-side type fibers composed of two kinds of polyamides having a viscosity difference and other polyamide fibers as disclosed in Patent Document 2, and a loop yarn composed of a polyester-based conjugate fiber and a polyamide-based fiber in which a layer containing polyethylene terephthalate as a main component and a layer containing polytrimethylene terephthalate as a main component as disclosed in Patent Document 3 are combined into a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath-core type have been proposed.
As one means for improving softness, a method of using a polyamide fiber softer than a polyester fiber is conceivable. However, in the technique as disclosed in Patent Document 1, although the stretchability can be improved while suppressing the occurrence of wrinkles, since the crimped form is single, the woven/knitted fabric has insufficient bulkiness.
In the technique as disclosed in Patent Document 2, a mixed fiber textured yarn excellent in bulkiness can be obtained, but single filaments of polyamide fibers that do not exhibit stretchability are mixed between single filaments of side-by-side type fibers that exhibit stretchability by mixing, so that crimp expression of the side-by-side type fibers is inhibited, and sufficient stretchability cannot be obtained. Furthermore, in the technique as disclosed in Patent Document 3, bulkiness can be obtained, but bulkiness can be obtained by using a side-by-side type fiber made of polyester. However, as in Patent Document 2, crimp expression of the side-by-side type fiber is inhibited, and level dyeability and fastness are low due to a difference in dyeability between polyester and polyamide, so that the side-by-side type fiber cannot be suitably used for garments.
Therefore, an object of the present invention is to solve the above problems, and specifically, an object of the present invention is to provide a composite false twisted yarn and a woven/knitted fabric which are excellent in function such as excellent stretchability and texture such as bulkiness and softness and are particularly suitably used for garments, and garments using the same.
The composite false twisted yarn of the present invention includes a polyamide fiber A and a polyamide fiber B, in which the polyamide fiber A is a latent crimp yarn, the polyamide fiber B is not the latent crimp yarn, and an adjacent filament group ratio in the polyamide fiber A is 50% or more.
According to a preferred aspect of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, the elongation difference between the polyamide fiber A and the polyamide fiber B is 7.0% or more and 40.0% or less.
According to a preferred aspect of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, the polyamide fiber B has a single filament fineness of 0.3 dtex or more and 0.9 dtex or less.
According to a preferred aspect of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, the polyamide fiber A has an eccentric core-sheath type composite cross section having an equilibrium moisture content of 6.3% or less, and the viscosity ratio of the polyamide constituting the core component to the polyamide constituting the sheath component is 1.20 or more and 1.40 or less.
The woven/knitted fabric of the present invention includes the crimped composite false twisted yarn of the present invention in at least a part thereof.
The garment of the present invention includes at least a part of the crimped composite false twisted yarn of the present invention.
The garment of the present invention includes at least a part of the woven/knitted fabric of the present invention.
According to the present invention, a composite false twisted yarn excellent in texture such as bulkiness and softness in addition to excellent stretchability is obtained. In particular, the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention can be formed into a woven/knitted fabric suitably used for garments and garments using the same.
The composite false twisted yarn of the present invention includes a polyamide fiber A and a polyamide fiber B, in which the polyamide fiber A is a latent crimp yarn, the polyamide fiber B is not the latent crimp yarn, and an adjacent filament group ratio in the polyamide fiber A is 50% or more.
The polyamide fiber A in the present invention is a latent crimp yarn, and is a fiber composed of two or more polyamides having different shrink properties and having a shape combined with a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type. The latent crimp yarn may be crimped in advance by false twisting or the like, and the crimp may increase due to a difference in shrinkage of the combined polymer.
The side-by-side type may have, for example, a structure in which a semicircular first polymer and a semicircular second polymer are bonded, or a composite structure in which an arc-shaped first polymer and a second polymer are bonded. The eccentric core-sheath type fiber may contain a polymer different from the first polymer and the second polymer as long as the effect of the present invention is not inhibited.
The eccentric core-sheath type refers to a conjugate fiber in which at least two kinds of polymers form an eccentric core-sheath structure. Eccentricity means that the position of the center-of-gravity of the polymer constituting the core component is different from the center of the conjugate fiber cross-section in the cross section of the conjugate fiber. The core-sheath means a state in which the first polymer as a core component is covered with the second polymer as a sheath component. The eccentric core-sheath type fiber may contain a polymer different from the first polymer and the second polymer as long as the first polymer is covered as long as the effect of the present invention is not inhibited.
When the polyamide constituting the polyamide fiber A and the polyamide fiber B of the present invention are crystalline, the quality stability is improved, which is preferable. The crystalline polyamide is a polyamide that forms crystals and has a melting point, and is a polymer in which a so-called hydrocarbon group is linked to the main chain via an amide bond. Specific examples thereof include polycapramide, polyhexamethylene adipamide, polyhexamethylene sebacamide, polytetramethylene adipamide, a condensation polymerization polyamide of 1,4-cyclohexanebis and a linear aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, and a copolymer thereof or a mixture thereof.
The polyamide fiber A of the present invention is a latent crimp yarn, the first polymer is a first polyamide, and the second polymer is a second polyamide. The first polyamide is a polyamide different from the later-described second polyamide among nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 4, nylon 610, nylon 11, nylon 12, and the like, and copolymers containing them as main components, and can contain components other than lactam, aminocarboxylic acid, diamine, and dicarboxylic acid in the repeating structure thereof as long as the effect of the present invention is not inhibited. However, elastomers containing a polyol or the like in the repeating structure are excluded from the viewpoint of yarn productivity and strength.
In addition, from the viewpoint of yarn productivity, strength, and anti-removability, a polymer in which 90% or more of the repeating structure is a single lactam, an aminocarboxylic acid, or a combination of diamines and dicarboxylic acids is preferable, and 95% or more of the repeating structure is more preferable. In a particularly preferable aspect, the component is nylon 6 or a copolymer thereof from the viewpoint of thermal stability.
The second polyamide is obtained, for example, by a combination of a dicarboxylic acid unit containing a sebacic acid unit as a main component and a diamine unit. In particular, nylon 610 having stable polymerizability, less yellowing of the crimped yarn, excellent stretchability of the woven/knitted fabric, and good dyeability, and a copolymer thereof are most preferably used. Sebacic acid can be produced, for example, by purification from castor oil seeds, and is positioned as a plant-derived raw material.
Examples of the dicarboxylic acid constituting the dicarboxylic acid unit other than the sebacic acid unit include oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, and terephthalic acid, and these can be blended as long as the effect of the present invention is not impaired.
These dicarboxylic acids are also preferably plant-derived dicarboxylic acids. The copolymerization amount of the dicarboxylic acid unit other than the sebacic acid unit is preferably 0 to 40 mol %, more preferably 0 to 20 mol %, and still more preferably 0 to 10 mol % in all dicarboxylic acid units.
Examples of the diamine constituting the diamine unit include diamines having 2 or more carbon atoms, preferably diamines having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, and specific examples thereof include putrescine, 1,5-pentanediamine, hexamethylenediamine, trimethylenediamine, nonanediamine, methylpentanediamine, phenylenediamine, and ethambutol. These diamines are also preferably plant-derived diamines.
The total fineness of the polyamide fiber A is preferably 5 dtex or more and 300 dtex or less, and more preferably 10 dtex or more and 200 dtex or less. When the total fineness is within the above range, a comfortable wearing feeling can be obtained while the strength of the composite false twisted yarn and the woven/knitted fabric is excellent. The single filament fineness is preferably 5.0 dtex or less, and more preferably 2.5 dtex or less. The lower limit of the single filament fineness is substantially 0.7 dtex. By setting the single filament fineness to such a range, the rigidity of the crimp does not become too strong, and a composite false twisted yarn and a woven/knitted fabric having more excellent flexibility can be obtained.
The elongation of the polyamide fiber A is preferably 45% or more and 90% or less, more preferably 55% or more and 80% or less. When the elongation is within the above range, the yarn can be sufficiently stretched at the time of composite false twisting, and the difference in yarn amount from the polyamide fiber B to be described later can be adjusted.
The polyamide fiber B in the present invention is a polyamide fiber different from the polyamide fiber A. The polyamide fiber B is not a latent crimp yarn. Since the polyamide fiber B has no latent crimp, the fullness of the composite false twisted yarn after dyeing processing is increased.
Among nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 4, nylon 610, nylon 11, nylon 12, and the like, and copolymers containing them as main components, the polyamide fiber B can contain components other than lactam, aminocarboxylic acid, diamine, and dicarboxylic acid in the repeating structure thereof as long as the effect of the present invention is not inhibited. However, elastomers containing a polyol or the like in the repeating structure are excluded from the viewpoint of yarn productivity and strength.
In addition, from the viewpoint of yarn productivity, strength, and anti-removability, a polymer in which 90% or more of the repeating structure is a single lactam, an aminocarboxylic acid, or a combination of diamines and dicarboxylic acids is preferable, and 95% or more of the repeating structure is more preferable. In a particularly preferable aspect, the component is nylon 6 or a copolymer thereof from the viewpoint of thermal stability.
The total fineness of the polyamide fiber B is preferably 5 dtex or more and 200 dtex or less, and more preferably 10 dtex or more and 150 dtex or less. When the total fineness is within the above range, a comfortable wearing feeling can be obtained while the strength of the composite false twisted yarn and the woven/knitted fabric is excellent. The single filament fineness is preferably 2.0 dtex or less, and more preferably 0.9 dtex or less. The lower limit of the single filament fineness is preferably 0.3 dtex. When the single filament fineness is within such a range, the fibers on the surface of the woven/knitted fabric are thinned, so that a composite false twisted yarn and a woven/knitted fabric having more excellent flexibility can be obtained.
The elongation of the polyamide fiber B is preferably 30% or more and 90% or less, more preferably 50% or more and 80% or less. When the elongation is within the above range, the yarn length difference from the polyamide fiber A can be controlled by the processing tension difference from the polyamide fiber A at the time of composite false twisting.
In the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, an adjacent filament group ratio in the polyamide fiber A (latent crimp yarn) is 50% or more, preferably 85% or more. The adjacent filament group ratio of the latent crimp yarn was calculated by the method described in Examples. “The adjacent filament group ratio of the latent crimp yarn is high” means that the latent crimp yarn is solidly present in the composite false twisted yarn, and when the adjacent filament group ratio of the latent crimp yarn is in such a range, the latent crimp yarn sufficiently exhibits crimp, and a composite false twisted yarn and a woven/knitted fabric excellent in excellent stretchability and bulkiness are obtained.
The CR (stretch recovery ratio) of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is preferably 20% or more, more preferably 25% or more. By setting CR within such a range, high stretchability and recoverability can be obtained.
The CF value of the composite false twisting of the present invention is preferably 50 or more and 200 or less, and more preferably 100 or more and 150 or less. By designing the CF value in such a range, the step passability can be improved without inhibiting stretchability.
If necessary, a pigment, a heat stabilizer, an antioxidant, a weathering agent, a flame retardant, a plasticizer, a mold release agent, a lubricant, a foaming agent, an antistatic agent, a moldability improver, a reinforcing agent, and the like can be added and blended to the polyamide fiber A and the polyamide fiber B.
In regard to the composite ratio (weight) of the polyamide fibers A and the polyamide fibers B in the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, the ratio of the polyamide fibers A is preferably 30% or more and 80% or less, and more preferably 40% or more and 80% or less. When the composite ratio is in such a range, both stretchability, bulkiness, and softness can be achieved.
The elongation difference between the polyamide fiber A and the polyamide fiber B in the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is preferably 7.0% or more and 40.0% or less, more preferably 9.0% or more and 20.0% or less. When the elongation difference between the polyamide fiber A and the polyamide fiber B is 7.0% or more, for example, when the polyamide fiber B is higher in elongation than the polyamide fiber A, the polyamide fiber B is arranged outside in the transverse cross-section of the composite false twisted yarn to cause a difference in yarn length, so that the composite false twisted yarn obtains bulkiness. In addition, the color developability of the polyamide fiber B at the time of performing the dyeing processing is improved, and the level dyeability is also excellent. When the elongation difference between the polyamide fiber A and the polyamide fiber B is 40% or less, the tension at the time of false twisting is stabilized, so that excellent process stability is achieved. The elongation difference within such a range is obtained by setting the stretch ratio so that the tension at the time of stretching the polyamide fiber A becomes relatively high in the composite false twisting.
When the polyamide fiber A in the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is not a side-by-side type conjugate fiber but an eccentric core-sheath type conjugate fiber, stable yarn making is possible, and excellent quality can be obtained.
In the present invention, the polyamide fiber A preferably has an equilibrium moisture content of 6.3% or less when the temperature is 30° C., the relative humidity is 90 RH %, and the treatment time is 72 hours. The equilibrium moisture content referred to herein is an equilibrium moisture content measured in accordance with JIS L 1013 8.2 (2021). By setting the equilibrium moisture content to 6.3% or less, the swelling of the polyamide fiber under wet heat conditions such as the scouring step and the dyeing processing step is reduced, the elongation of the woven/knitted fabric is reduced, and wrinkles and embossment are suppressed. This makes it possible to pass through processes such as a scouring step and a dyeing processing step without applying extra tension to the woven/knitted fabric, and as a result, a woven/knitted fabric having excellent stretchability is obtained. The equilibrium moisture content is preferably 6.0% or less. The equilibrium moisture content is preferably 1.0% or more.
When the polyamide fiber A used in the present invention is an eccentric core-sheath type conjugate fiber, the moisture content of the second polyamide constituting the sheath is preferably 4.0% or less, and more preferably 3.5% or less. The moisture content is preferably 1.0% or more. A polyamide having a moisture content lower than that of the polyamide conjugate fiber in the present invention is preferably disposed on the sheath side, and a polyamide having a moisture content lower than that of the first polyamide of the core component is more preferably disposed on the sheath side. As a result, swelling due to wet heat unique to polyamide can be further suppressed, and better stretchability can be obtained in a product that has passed through the dyeing processing step.
The moisture content was measured according to JIS L 7251 (2002) A method on a sample at a temperature of 23° C., a relative humidity of 90 RH %, and a treatment time of 72 hours. The core part and the sheath part of the eccentric core-sheath type conjugate fiber are separated, and only the sheath component is used, or when the sheath component can be specified, the same material is used for the measurement.
In a preferred aspect, the composite ratio of the polyamide latent crimp yarn is first polyamide: second polyamide=6:4 to 4:6 (mass ratio). By setting the mass ratio to 6:4 to 4:6, it is easy to control the equilibrium moisture content of the polyamide conjugate fiber in the present invention to 6.3% or less, and excellent stretchability is imparted to the obtained composite false twisted yarn and woven/knitted fabric.
Furthermore, in the polyamide conjugate fiber in the present invention, the viscosity ratio between the polyamide constituting the core component and the polyamide constituting the sheath component, that is, the value obtained by dividing the relative viscosity of the polyamide having the highest relative viscosity by the relative viscosity of the polyamide having the lowest relative viscosity among the polyamides to be combined regardless of the core component and the sheath component is preferably 1.20 or more and 1.40 or less, more preferably 1.22 or more and 1.40 or less, and still more preferably 1.30 or more and 1.40 or less. By selecting a polyamide having a relative viscosity such that the viscosity ratio falls within such a range, a shrinkage difference is developed after the heat treatment, stronger crimp is developed, and the stretchability of the woven/knitted fabric is improved.
In the present invention, by using an eccentric core-sheath type polyamide conjugate fiber having an equilibrium moisture content of 6.3% or less as a false twisted yarn, the influence of swelling is further suppressed, and the effect as a false twisted yarn can be exhibited. When the equilibrium moisture content exceeds 6.3%, or when the conjugate fiber is a side-by-side type, it is difficult to obtain an expected effect due to swelling or the like during the step even if false twisting is performed. The twisted yarn generally used in the side-by-side type conjugate fiber may be included as long as the effect of the present invention is not impaired, but the twisted yarn tends to be inferior in quality, texture, and stretchability to the false twisted yarn, and thus is mixed with care.
The woven/knitted fabric of the present invention includes at least a part of the crimped composite false twisted yarn of the present invention (hereinafter, “crimped” may be omitted and referred to as “composite false twisted yarn”). The crimp is expressed by dyeing processing, and the method thereof is as described later.
For example, in the case of a woven fabric, at least one of the warp yarn and the weft yarn may be composed only of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention in order to further improve the stretchability of the woven fabric. In the case of a knitted fabric, a part of the constituent yarn may be the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, but in order to further improve the stretchability of the knitted item, the mixing ratio of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is preferably 50% or more on one side or both sides of the knitted item. The mixing ratio of the polyamide conjugate fiber is determined according to JIS L 1030-2 (2012). Since the false twisted yarn undergoes cross section deformation due to convergence in a heated state during the false twisting, the presence or absence of the false twisting can be determined from the observation of the fiber transverse cross-section.
In the woven/knitted fabric of the present invention, a fiber other than the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention may be used as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired, and the material is not particularly limited, but from the viewpoint of colorfastness to dyeing and stretchability, it is preferable to use a stretchable yarn composed of a polyamide fiber or a cation-dyeable polyester fiber, or a stretchable yarn obtained by covering a polyurethane fiber with a polyamide fiber, a cation-dyeable polyester fiber, various natural fibers, or a semi-synthetic fiber. In addition, use of a stretchable yarn made of polyamide fibers is more preferable because of excellent surface quality.
The stitch of the woven/knitted fabric of the present invention is not limited, and in the case of a woven fabric, the stitch may be any of a flat stitch, a traverse stitch, a sateen stitch, a changed stitch thereof, and a mixed stitch thereof depending on the application to be used. In order to form a stitch in which the formation of the woven fabric is firm, a flat stitch or a flat double stitch having many constraint points is preferable. In order to obtain a woven fabric having a fullness feeling and further excellent stretchability, a traverse stitch having an appropriate constraint point is preferable. Furthermore, in the case of a knitted fabric, the stitch may be any of a plain stitch of a circular knitted fabric, an interlock stitch, a half stitch of a warp knitted fabric, a satin stitch, a jacquard stitch or a modified stitch thereof, and a mixed stitch, but a smooth stitch, a cardboard stitch or the like excellent in bulkiness as a knitted structure is preferable.
The elongation rate of the woven/knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 15% or more, more preferably 20% or more in the case of a woven fabric. The upper limit is not particularly limited, but is preferably designed to be 50% or less in consideration of recoverability. In the case of a knitted fabric, the elongation rate is preferably 35% or more, and more preferably 45% or more. The condition of the elongation rate of the knitted fabric is not particularly limited, but is preferably 150% or less in consideration of recoverability. When the elongation rate is designed to fall within these ranges, motion followability is high and wearing comfort is excellent when worn as garments.
Next, an example of a method for producing the composite false twisted yarn and the woven/knitted fabric of the present invention is described.
First, a production method by high speed direct spinning is described as an example of melt spinning of polyamide fibers. It is preferable to appropriately select the first polyamide as the core component and the second polyamide as the sheath component with reference to the equilibrium moisture content and the relative viscosity of the polyamide fiber as a single component in order to set the equilibrium moisture content and the viscosity ratio in the present invention to the ranges. The selected first polyamide and second polyamide are separately melted, weighed using a gear pump, transported, and a composite flow is formed so as to have a core-sheath structure as it is by an ordinary method, and discharged from a spinneret for an eccentric core-sheath type conjugate fiber. The discharged polyamide conjugate fiber yarn is cooled to 30° C. by blowing cooling air with a yarn cooling device such as chimney, oiled and converged by an oiling device, taken up at 1500 to 4000 m/min by a take-up roller, and passed through a take-up roller and a stretching roller. At that time, the yarn is stretched 1.0 to 3.0 times according to the ratio of the circumferential speeds of the take-up roller and the stretching roller. Furthermore, the yarn is thermally set by a stretching roller and wound into a package at a winding speed of 3000 m/min or more. In addition, a production method by high speed direct spinning of the melt spinning of the polyamide composite fiber is exemplified and described below. The first polyamide and the second polyamide are separately melted, weighed and transported using a gear pump, a composite flow is formed so as to have a core-sheath structure as it is by an ordinary method, and discharged from a spinneret using a spinneret for an eccentric core-sheath type conjugate fiber. The discharged polyamide conjugate fiber yarn is cooled to 30° C. by blowing cooling air with a yarn cooling device such as chimney, oiled and converged by an oiling device, taken up by a take-up roller at 1500 to 4500 m/min, passed through a take-up roller and a stretching roller, and finely stretched at 1.0 to 1.2 times according to a ratio of peripheral speeds of the take-up roller and the stretching roller. Further, the film is wound into a package at a winding speed of 3000 m/min or more.
In particular, the spinning temperature is appropriately designed based on the melting point of the polyamide having a high relative viscosity. When the spinning temperature increases, the crystal part increases and the equilibrium moisture content decreases, and when the spinning temperature decreases, the movable amorphous content increases and the rigid amorphous content tends to slightly decrease. Therefore, the spinning temperature is preferably 235 to 270° C., which is higher than the melting point of the polyamide, and more preferably 245 to 260° C. By appropriately setting the spinning temperature, the equilibrium moisture content and the rigid amorphous content of the polyamide conjugate fiber used in the present invention can be controlled, and desired thermal shrinkage stress and stretch elongation rate are obtained.
In general, in the case of a side-by-side type composite cross section, yarn bending is likely to occur due to a flow speed difference, and the process stability is deteriorated. However, when an eccentric core-sheath type composite cross section is formed, the yarn productivity is improved, and a single filament fine fineness product can be easily obtained.
The equilibrium moisture content of the polyamide conjugate fiber can also be controlled by appropriately designing the draft stretching (take-up speed). When the take-up speed is high, the crystallinity tends to increase and the equilibrium moisture content tends to decrease, and when the take-up speed is low, the crystallinity tends to decrease and the equilibrium moisture content tends to increase. In addition, the rigid amorphous content increases, and the thermal shrinkage stress and the stretch elongation rate are improved. The take-up speed is preferably 2500 to 4000 m/min.
When a stretched yarn is obtained, the equilibrium moisture content of the polyamide conjugate fiber used in the present invention may be reduced by using the take-up roller as a heating roller to perform thermal stretching. In addition, the rigid amorphous content is increased, and the thermal shrinkage stress is improved. The stretch ratio is preferably 1.1 to 3.0 times, more preferably 1.3 to 3.0 times. The thermal stretching temperature is preferably 30 to 90° C., more preferably 40 to 60° C. The thermal shrinkage stress of the polyamide conjugate fiber can be appropriately designed by subjecting the stretching roller to thermally set as a heating roller. The thermally set temperature is preferably 130 to 180° C.
It is also possible to perform the entanglement using a known entangling device in the step up to the winding. If necessary, it is also possible to increase the number of entanglement s by applying the entanglement plural times. Furthermore, it is also possible to additionally apply an oil agent immediately before winding.
In the method for producing a composite false twisted yarn, since it is necessary to control the stretch ratios of the polyamide fibers A and the polyamide fibers B, it is necessary to use equipment having a plurality of feed rollers as shown in
A method for producing the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is described with reference to
The polyamide fiber A (A) and the polyamide fiber B (B) are fed from a first feed roller (1) and a second feed roller (2), respectively, joined by a guide (3), and then subjected to stretching simultaneous false twisting between a heater (4), a cooling plate (5), a twister (6), and a third feed roller (7). At this time, the stretching ratios of the polyamide fiber A and the polyamide fiber B are controlled by adjusting the speeds of the first feed roller (1) and the second feed roller (2), and specifically, the stretching ratios are set so that the elongation after false twisting of the polyamide fiber A is 30% or more and 45% or less, preferably 30% or more and 40% or less, and the elongation after false twisting of the polyamide fiber B is 40% or more and 70% or less, preferably 40% or more and 55% or less. By setting the stretch ratio within such a range, the strength and the crimping property of the composite false twisted yarn can be sufficiently obtained, and the tension of the polyamide fiber A during stretching becomes relatively high, so that the polyamide fiber A is unevenly distributed at the center of the yarn of the composite false twisted yarn, and the adjacent filament group ratio of the polyamide fiber A can be 50% or more.
On the other hand, when the polyamide fiber B having a relatively low tension at the time of stretching is stretched while being wound around the polyamide fiber A, a difference in yarn length from the polyamide fiber A is obtained, and the polyamide fiber B is unevenly distributed on the surface of the composite false twisted yarn, so that color unevenness due to a difference in dyeing between the polyamide fiber A and the polyamide fiber B is less likely to be seen when dyeing processing is performed.
In the composite false twisting, the temperature of the heater (4) is preferably 150° C. or higher and 200° C. or lower, and more preferably 160° C. or higher and 180° C. or lower. By setting the heater temperature within such a range, a strong crimp can be imparted to the composite false twisted yarn.
In the case of a polyamide fiber, the twist coefficient K is preferably set to a high value of 26000 to 33000. Specifically, in the case of the friction type, it is effective to increase the number of discs or increase the disc speed, and in the case of the belt nip type, the twist coefficient K can be controlled by increasing the belt crossing angle or increasing the contact pressure of the belt. As an example, in the case of the friction type, the number of discs is preferably 8 or more, and the ratio of disc speed/yarn speed is preferably 1.5 or more. In the case of a belt nip type, the belt crossing angle is preferably 100° or more, and the contact pressure of the belt is preferably 1 g/dtex or more. By setting the twist coefficient K within such a range, not only the crimping property is improved, but also polyamide fiber B is more likely to be arranged on the outside of the composite false twisted yarn, so that good softness and level dyeability can be obtained.
Furthermore, it is preferable to perform an entanglement process between the third feed roller (7) and the fourth feed roller (9). It is preferable to use an interlacing nozzle for the entanglement treatment because the adjacent filament group ratio of the polyamide fiber A can be maintained.
Thereafter, the yarn is wound by a winder (10) to obtain a package of composite false twisted yarn.
The woven/knitted fabric of the present invention can be woven and knitted according to a known method, and in the case of a woven fabric, the woven/knitted fabric is woven using an air jet loom, a water jet loom, a rapier loom, a projectile loom, a shuttle loom, or the like. In the case of the knitted fabric, knitting is performed using a weft knitting machine such as a flat knitting machine, an old-fashioned knitting machine, a circular knitting machine, a computer jacquard knitting machine, a socks knitting machine, and a cylindrical knitting machine, or a warp knitting machine such as a tricot knitting machine, a raschel knitting machine, an air-jet loom, and a milanese knitting machine.
After weaving or knitting, the woven/knitted fabric of the present invention are subjected to dyeing processing according to a known method. In the present invention, the processing of scouring, relaxation treatment, intermediate thermally set, dyeing processing (in a narrow sense), and finishing thermally set are collectively referred to as “dyeing processing”. Next, an example of the dyeing processing step of the present invention is described, but the dyeing processing step of the present invention is not limited to the step s and conditions described below, and a known dyeing processing step may be used.
An example of the dyeing processing step: scouring (80° C., 20 minutes, wet heat)→relaxation processing (100° C., 30 minutes, wet heat)→intermediate thermally set (180° C., 1 min)→dyeing processing (Black, 100° C., 60 min)→finishing thermally set (170° C., 30 seconds). In addition, in the present invention, for convenience, it is referred to as a “dyeing processing step”, but if the heating step is included at all, it is the “dyeing processing step”, and any one of the scouring, the relaxation treatment, the intermediate thermally set, the dyeing processing (in a narrow sense), and the finishing thermally set may be omitted. In addition, there is no problem even if it is raw without using a dye.
In order to obtain sufficient stretchability, it is preferable to adjust and control the processing conditions in the dyeing processing step. In the dyeing processing step in which water, hot water, or steam is frequently used, the processing tension is particularly controlled. When the processing tension in the warp or weft direction is high, the crimp development of the fibers in the woven or knitted structure is suppressed in the direction in which high tension is applied, and the stretchability tends to decrease. In the dyeing processing step of a woven/knitted fabric, polyamide fibers are generally swollen by moisture or the like, and there are deterioration in quality such as wrinkles and deterioration in step passability, and therefore processing is performed under relatively high tension. In a preferred aspect of the present invention, a woven/knitted fabric using an eccentric core-sheath type polyamide latent crimp yarn as the polyamide fiber A can suppress deterioration in quality such as wrinkles and deterioration in step passability. In addition, by controlling the processing tension, sufficient crimps can be expressed after dyeing processing, and high stretchability can be obtained.
The woven/knitted fabric of the present invention can be used for various applications such as garments, bedclothes, bags, sheets, gloves, floor mats, skin materials, and the like by utilizing the stretchability, bulkiness, and softness of the woven/knitted fabric. Among them, by forming a garment including at least a part of the woven/knitted fabric, the movement of the body is not inhibited, and the woven/knitted fabric is excellent in texture, so that a garment excellent in wearing feeling can be obtained. That is, the garment of the present invention includes at least a part of the crimped composite false twisted yarn of the present invention or the woven/knitted fabric of the present invention.
The application of the garment of the present invention is not limited, but is a down jacket, a windbreaker, a golf wear, a rainwear, a sport typified by yoga wear, a casual wear, a fashion wear, a bottom wear such as an inner or a leg, a sock, or the like. In particular, it can be suitably used for sportswear.
Next, the present invention is described in detail on the basis of the Examples. However, the present invention is not limited only to these Examples. Unless otherwise described, physical properties are measured on the basis of the methods described above.
After dissolving 0.25 g of a polyamide chip sample so as to be 1 g/100 ml with respect to 25 ml of 98-mass % sulfuric acid, a flow time (T1) at a temperature of 25° C. was measured using an Ostwald viscometer. Subsequently, a flow time (T2) of 98-mass % sulfuric acid alone was measured. The ratio of T1 to T2, that is, T1/T2 was defined as the sulfuric acid relative viscosity.
In accordance with JIS L 1013 8.2 (2021 version), the equilibrium moisture content was measured from the mass obtained by treatment in a bone-dry state and at a temperature of 30° C. and a relative humidity of 90% RH for 72 hours.
The moisture content was measured in accordance with JIS L 7251 A method (2002) for a sample at a temperature of 23° C. and a relative humidity of 90 RH % for a treatment time of 72 hours.
According to JIS L 1013 8.3 (2021). A skein of 200 turns is prepared from the fiber sample with a tension of 1/30 (g) using a measuring machine with a frame circumference of 1.125 m. The skein was dried at a temperature of 105° C. for 60 minutes, transferred to a desiccator, and cooled for 30 minutes under an environment of a temperature of 20° C. and a relative humidity of 55% RH. The mass per 10,000 m was calculated from the value obtained by measuring the mass of the skein, and the total fineness of the fiber yarn was calculated from the official moisture regain in accordance with JIS L 0105 4.1 (2020). The measurement was performed five times, and the average was defined as a total fineness.
According to JIS L 1013 8.12 (2021).
Using an entanglement tester (Entanglement Tester Type R2072 manufactured by Rothschild), the degree of entanglement was determined as follows. An initial tension of 10 g was applied to the yarn with the needle still pierced, the yarn was run at a constant speed of 5 m/min, a length (opening fiber length) at which the tension reached a prescribed value (trip level) of 15.5 cN at the point of entanglement was measured 30 times, and the degree of entanglement (CF value) per 1 m of the yarn was determined on the basis of an average length of 30 times (average opening fiber length: mm) using the following formula.
Degree of entanglement CF=1000/average opening fiber length.
The adjacent filament group referred to in the present invention is an assembly in which N×0.2 or more single fibers of latent crimp yarns are adjacent and continuous when the total number of single fibers (hereinafter, the fiber may be referred to as a single fiber) of latent crimp yarns is denoted by N in the transverse cross-section of the composite false twisted yarn, and the adjacent filament group ratio of latent crimp yarns is represented by Ns/N×100(%) when the total number of single fibers of latent crimp yarns constituting the adjacent filament group is denoted by Ns.
Referring to
The phrase “single fibers are adjacent and continuous” means that other single fibers such as the single fiber (15) of the polyamide fiber B are not present between any single fiber and the same single fiber that is closest to the single fiber as in the adjacent filament group (13) or the adjacent single fiber (14) in
The single fibers of the latent crimp yarns constituting the adjacent filament group were counted based on images obtained by embedding the composite false twisted yarn extracted from the woven/knitted fabric after dyeing processing with an embedding agent such as an epoxy resin, and photographing the transverse cross-section all the single fibers at a magnification at which 10 or more single fibers can be observed with a VE-7800 scanning electron microscope (SEM) manufactured by KEYENCE CORPORATION. The above measurement was performed at 10 or more points, and the one decimal place of the simple number average of the measurement results was rounded off to obtain the adjacent filament group ratio of the latent crimp yarn of the evaluated yarn bundle.
When the sample was a composite false twisted yarn, a woven fabric after dyeing processing was produced under the following conditions and used for evaluation.
The woven/knitted fabric after the dyeing processing by a conventional method was subjected to humidity control in an environment of 20° C. and 65 RH % for 24 hours or more, a yarn having a length of about 5 cm was taken out from the woven/knitted fabric, and carefully untwisted into single filaments one by one so that the fibers themselves did not stretch. The divided single filaments were placed on a scale plate coated with glycerin, and the fiber lengths were measured under application of a load of 0.11 cN/dtex, and were calculated by the following equation, where the average length of a single filament group having a relatively short fiber length was La, and the average length of a single filament group having a relatively long fiber length was Lb. All the single filaments constituting the composite mixed-filament fiber are classified into any of the single filament groups according to the fiber length. The test is performed 20 times, and an average value thereof was rounded off to one decimal place according to Rule B (rounding method) of JIS Z 8401 (2019). When the sample was a composite false twisted yarn, a woven fabric after dyeing processing was produced in the same manner as in item (7), and used for evaluation.
The woven/knitted fabric after the dyeing processing by a conventional method was subjected to humidity control in an environment of 20° C. and 65 RH % for 24 hours or more, a yarn having a length of about 30 cm was taken out from the woven/knitted fabric, and carefully untwisted into single filaments one by one so that the fibers themselves did not stretch. According to a constant speed elongation condition shown in JIS L 1013 (2010) 8.5.2 standard time test, the sample was elongated from an initial load of 0.1 cN/dtex to a rupture with a TENSILON tensile tester at a sample length of 20 cm and a tensile speed of 20 cm/min, and the elongation per single filament was determined from the elongation at the maximum load. The average elongation of the single filament group having a relatively low elongation was defined as Sa, and the average elongation of the single filament group having a relatively high elongation was defined as Sb, and the elongation was calculated according to the following formula. All the single filaments constituting the composite mixed-filament fiber are classified into any of the single filament groups according to the fiber length. The test is performed 20 times, and an average value thereof was rounded off to one decimal place according to Rule B (rounding method) of JIS Z 8401 (2019). When the sample was a composite false twisted yarn, a woven fabric after dyeing processing was produced in the same manner as in item (7), and used for evaluation.
The measurement was performed according to JIS L 1013 8.3B method (2010) except that the sample length was 10 cm.
According to JIS L 1096 8.16 (2010). The elongation rate of the woven fabric was calculated from the length after holding the woven fabric at a grip interval of 500 mm and a load of 14.7 N for 1 minute according to Method B (constant load method of woven fabric). The knitted fabric was stretched to 14.7 N at a tensile speed of 100 mm/min by a grab method according to Method D (constant load method of knitted fabric), and the elongation rate was calculated from the length after holding for 1 minute.
The process stability was determined from the number of yarn breaks per 108 spindles per 24 hours for the composite false twisted yarn or composite mixed yarn of Examples and Comparative Examples. Evaluation was performed in the following five stages, and the average value of the evaluation points was rounded off to one decimal place. Three or more points were rated as good process stability.
The level dyeability of the woven/knitted fabric was visually evaluated by skilled technicians (five persons) in the following five grades, and the average value of the evaluation points of each technician was rounded off to one decimal place. Score 3 or more were rated as good level dyeability. When the sample was a composite false twisted yarn, a woven fabric after dyeing processing was produced in the same manner as in item (7), and used for evaluation.
The softness of the woven/knitted fabric was evaluated by the tactile sensation of a skilled technician (five persons) in the following five grades, and the average value of the evaluation points of each technician was rounded off to one decimal place. Score 3 or more were rated as good softness. When the sample was a composite false twisted yarn, a woven fabric after dyeing processing was produced in the same manner as in item (7), and used for evaluation.
The fullness of the woven/knitted fabric was evaluated by the tactile sensation of a skilled technician (five persons) in the following five grades, and the average value of the evaluation points of each technician was rounded off to one decimal place. Score 3 or more were rated as good fullness. When the sample was a composite false twisted yarn, a woven fabric after dyeing processing was produced in the same manner as in item (7), and used for evaluation.
As the polyamide fibers A (hereinafter, the fiber may be referred to as “fiber A”), a resin (1): nylon 6 (relative viscosity 3.32) and a resin (2): nylon 610 (relative viscosity 2.71) were respectively melted, and using a spinneret for eccentric core-sheath type conjugate fibers (24: hole, round hole), the resin (1): nylon 6 (relative viscosity 3.32) was disposed at the core, the resin (2): nylon 610 (relative viscosity 2.71) was used as the resin of the sheath, and nylon 6 (relative viscosity 3.32) and nylon 610 (relative viscosity 2.71) was melted and discharged at the composite ratio (mass ratio) of 5:5 (spinning temperature 270° C.). The yarns discharged from the spinneret were cooled and solidified by a yarn cooling device, supplied with a water-containing oil by an oil supply device, was subjected to entanglement using a fluid entanglement nozzle device, then taken up at 3700 m/min by a take-up roller (room temperature: 25° C.), stretched 1.1 times between stretching rollers (room temperature: 25° C.), and then wound into a package at a winding speed of 4000 m/min to obtain a polyamide latent crimp yarn (polyamide fiber A) having a total fineness of 70 dtex, the number of filaments of 24, and an elongation of 60%.
As the polyamide fiber B (hereinafter, the fiber may be referred to as a “fiber B”), nylon 6 (relative viscosity: 2.63) was melted, and melted and discharged using spinneret having 68 holes and round holes (spinning temperature: 270° C.). The yarn discharged from the spinneret was wound into a package in the same manner as the fiber A to obtain a polyamide fiber B having a total fineness of 44 dtex, the number of filaments of 68, and an elongation of 60%.
The obtained fiber A and fiber B were subjected to composite false twisting with a false twisting machine shown in
A smooth stitch was formed using the composite false twisted yarn, scouring and dyeing processing were performed by liquid flow scouring-liquid flow dyeing, and the fabric dry thermally set (intermediate thermally set and finish thermally set) before and after the dyeing processing was appropriately adjusted to obtain a knitted fabric excellent in stretchability, bulkiness, and softness. The characteristics of the composite false twisted yarn and the knitted fabric are shown in Table 1.
A flat double stitch was formed using the composite false twisted yarn of Example 1 as a warp yarn and a weft yarn, and dyeing processing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric excellent in stretchability, bulkiness, and softness. The characteristics of the composite false twisted yarn and the woven fabric are shown in Table 1.
A knitted fabric excellent in stretchability, bulkiness, and softness was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the resin (2) of the polyamide latent crimp yarn (polyamide fiber A) was changed to nylon 6 (relative viscosity: 2.63). The characteristics of the composite false twisted yarn and the knitted fabric are shown in Table 1.
A knitted fabric excellent in stretchability, bulkiness, and softness was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the stretch ratio of the polyamide fiber B at the time of composite false twisting was set to 1.230. The characteristics of the composite false twisted yarn and the knitted fabric are shown in Table 1.
A knitted fabric excellent in stretchability, bulkiness, and softness was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the stretch ratio of the polyamide fiber B at the time of composite false twisting was set to 1.000. The characteristics of the composite false twisted yarn and the knitted fabric are shown in Table 1.
A knitted fabric excellent in stretchability, bulkiness, and softness was obtained in the same manner as in Example 5 except that the stretch ratio of the polyamide fiber B during melt spinning was increased to set the elongation to 40%. The characteristics of the composite false twisted yarn and the knitted fabric are shown in Table 1.
A knitted fabric excellent in stretchability, bulkiness, and softness was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the spinneret of the polyamide fiber B at the time of melt spinning was changed to 36 holes. The characteristics of the composite false twisted yarn and the knitted fabric are shown in Table 1.
A knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that a polyamide latent crimp yarn (polyamide fiber A) was used instead of the polyamide fiber B, and the stretch ratio at the time of false twisting was set to 1.250. The obtained product was excellent in stretchability, but inferior in bulkiness and fullness. The characteristics of the composite false twisted yarn and the knitted fabric are shown in Table 2.
A polyamide latent crimp yarn (polyamide fiber A) described in Example 1 was stretched at a stretch ratio of 1.250, and a polyamide fiber B was stretched at a stretch ratio of 1.100 at a heater temperature of 170° C. The obtained stretched yarn was introduced into a fluid treatment nozzle at an overfeed rate of the polyamide fiber B to the polyamide latent crimp yarn (polyamide fiber A) of 11.0% to obtain a composite mixed fiber textured yarn subjected to fluid turbulence processing. The obtained composite mixed fiber textured yarn was knitted, and dyeing processing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1. Since the obtained knitted fabric had a low adjacent filament group ratio of latent crimp yarns, crimps were not sufficiently expressed, and the knitted fabric was poor in stretchability, bulkiness, and softness. The characteristics of the composite mixed fiber textured yarn and the knitted fabric are shown in Table 2.
Polytrimethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.31 and polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.52 were separately melted, and discharged from a spinneret having 24 holes for eccentric core-sheath type conjugate fiber (24 holes, round hole) at a spinning temperature of 260° C. so that the weight ratio of polyethylene terephthalate/polytrimethylene terephthalate was 50/50, and taken up at a spinning speed of 1400 m/min to obtain an unstretched yarn having a total fineness of 165 dtex and the number of filaments of 24. Further, the yarn was stretched at a hot roll temperature of 70° C., a hot plate temperature of 145° C., and a stretch ratio of 3.0 using a hot roll and hot plate type stretching machine to obtain a polyester latent crimp yarn having a total fineness of 56 dtex, the number of filaments of 24, and an elongation of 40%.
Knitting and dyeing processing were performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the fiber A was used as the polyester latent crimp yarn and the stretch ratio of the fiber A in the composite false twisting was 1.100. Since the obtained knitted fabric used different materials of polyamide and polyester, it was difficult to produce a stable composite false twisted yarn, and the knitted fabric was poor in stretchability and level dyeability. The characteristics of the composite false twisted yarn and the knitted fabric are shown in Table 2. Since not the relative viscosity but the limiting viscosity was measured, the fields of the relative viscosity and the viscosity ratio were “-”. The same applies to Comparative Example 4.
Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 was melted, and melted and discharged using a spinneret having 68 holes and round holes (spinning temperature: 285° C.). The yarns discharged from the spinneret were cooled and solidified by a yarn cooling device, supplied with an oil solution by an oil supply device, entangled by a fluid entanglement nozzle device, then taken up at 2300 m/min by a take-up roller (room temperature 25° C.), and wound into a package at a winding speed of 2300 m/min to obtain a partially oriented polyester fiber having a total fineness of 84 dtex, the number of filaments of 96, and an elongation of 130%.
Knitting and dyeing processing were performed in the same manner as in Comparative Example 3 except that the fiber B was changed to the partially oriented polyester fiber. Since the obtained knitted fabric was composed of polyester having high rigidity, the knitted fabric was poor in softness. The characteristics of the composite false twisted yarn and the knitted fabric are shown in Table 2.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2022-044997 | Mar 2022 | JP | national |
This application is the U.S. National Phase of PCT/JP2023/010335 filed Mar. 16, 2023 which claims priority to Japanese Patent Application No. 2022-044997 filed Mar. 22, 2022, the disclosures of these applications being incorporated herein by reference in their entireties for all purposes.
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/JP2023/010335 | 3/16/2023 | WO |
