Patent Application
20250041180
The present invention relates to the field of caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular to the anti-ageing care of keratin materials, notably of the skin.
More precisely, the present invention is directed towards proposing a novel cosmetic composition, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, which is particularly advantageous with regard to its technical performance, notably in terms of viscosity, stability and, in particular, stabilization of biological active agents, and the sensory sensations which it provides to the user when said user applies it thereto, in particular to the skin.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin materials” notably denotes the skin, the lips and/or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and preferably the skin of the body and/or the face, and more preferentially of the face.
Emulsions may be defined as being heterogeneous systems comprising at least two liquid phases that are immiscible or that are very sparingly mutually miscible. In these systems, one of the phases is dispersed in the form of fine droplets in the other phase, so as to observe a mixture that is macroscopically homogeneous to the naked eye.
Conventionally, the formulator of cosmetic compositions uses emulsified systems that combine an aqueous phase for freshness and a fatty phase for comfort.
The strong point of these systems is that they enable the combination, within the same composition, of cosmetic ingredients or active agents that have different affinities with respect to these two aqueous and fatty phases, which are immiscible at room temperature.
Emulsifying systems of reverse emulsion type (water-in-oil emulsions, the aqueous phase being in a form dispersed in the continuous fatty phase) have many advantages, with regard to the reduced soapy effect but also the good level of coverage and the homogeneous appearance that they provide compared to direct emulsions (oil-in-water emulsions).
Their weak point is, on the other hand, is that they give a pronounced greasy and tacky feeling, and thus a lack of lightness for the textures obtained.
In order to overcome these drawbacks, it has already been proposed to formulate reverse emulsions comprising a particularly high aqueous phase content, in particular of at least 50.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. These emulsions are commonly referred to as HIPE (High Internal Phase Emulsion) reverse emulsions.
HIPE reverse emulsions have most particularly advantageous rheological properties, in particular in terms of viscosity, enabling them to be packaged in a jar.
However, the high aqueous phase content of these compositions leads to a high proportion of droplets, which are also larger and therefore closer to each other than in the context of a “conventional” reverse emulsion, comprising an aqueous phase content strictly less than 50.0% by weight.
There is thus, for these compositions, an increased risk of coalescence between the droplets, leading to destabilization of the emulsion.
Combinations of surfactants have already been proposed in the prior art for stabilizing water-in-oil emulsions of HIPE type, for example in WO 2013/120823 and WO 2013/120829.
However, these compositions do not prove entirely satisfactory, in particular with regard to the sensory effect provided.
Moreover, it is known practice to introduce active agents into cosmetic compositions for the purpose of combating the signs of ageing.
Specifically, skin ageing results from the effects of intrinsic and extrinsic factors on the skin. During the ageing process, a detrimental change in the structure and functions of the skin appears. The main clinical signs due to these changes in the skin metabolism are the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, the cause of which is a slackening and loss of the elasticity of the tissues.
Unfortunately, anti-ageing active agents are often unstable in oxidizing medium and thus very sensitive to certain environmental parameters, for instance light, oxygen and water. Rapid degradation, on the one hand, of these active agents thus follows when they are in contact notably with one of these parameters, which runs counter to the desired efficacy, and, on the other hand, a destabilizing effect on the whole formulation comprising them. Surprisingly, certain fillers have shown a stabilizing effect on the activated formulation. However, it remains very difficult to use them in large amounts, notably greater than 6% by weight, while at the same time conserving satisfactory sensory results.
Finally, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products has become a major challenge for meeting new consumer expectations, in particular regarding natural and/or eco-friendly products, i.e. products whose design and development take into account their environmental impacts.
It is thus common practice to seek to replace synthetic or environmentally unfriendly compounds present in cosmetic compositions with natural ingredients and/or ingredients of natural origin.
The need thus remains for cosmetic compositions, formulated in the form of water-in-oil emulsions of HIPE type, which combine particularly advantageous technical performance in terms of sensory and rheological properties, while at the same time being stable.
In particular, the need remains for stable water-in-oil emulsions of the HIPE type which provide a good level of sensory pleasure, notably which provide a soft, non-greasy finish on application, which do not lather, and with a substantial reduction in linting and/or the shiny effect on the skin.
The need also remains to formulate such compositions comprising at least one cosmetic active agent, in particular at least one anti-ageing biological active agent, notably in a content of at least 2.0% by weight, without altering their advantageous technical performance, in particular in terms of stability.
Finally, the need also remains to have compositions that are compatible with the current consumer demands, notably regarding the environment.
The present invention specifically aims to meet all or some of these needs.
Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, notably a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising:
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “esters that are different from each other” is intended to denote esters whose chemical composition is at least partially different.
It is understood that the content of filler(s) is expressed as the active material of the components.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fillers” is intended to denote solid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble and dispersed form in the medium of the composition.
It has already been proposed to stabilize a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion of the HIPE type with a combination of specific polyglycerol esters, in a specific mass ratio, and glyceryl trihydroxystearate.
However, the inventors have found, entirely surprisingly, that the presence of specific fillers as defined above in a content of at least 6% by weight in such a cosmetic composition, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion of HIPE type, in particular moreover comprising at least one cosmetic active agent, such as an anti-ageing biological active agent, advantageously makes it possible to reconcile both excellent stability and excellent sensory performance.
In particular, the cosmetic compositions thus obtained have good rheological properties, notably in terms of viscosity and/or texture, and particularly advantageous cosmetic properties in terms of reduced greasiness, shine and tack, or improved freshness and moisturizing effects, during application and after application.
These effects are all the more surprising since it is generally accepted that the use of fillers in cosmetic compositions, such as diffusing fillers or fillers with a soft-focus effect, in particular in large amounts, can lead to destabilization of said compositions and induce cosmetic properties that are at variance with the users' expectations.
In addition, these effects are obtained by reducing the content of, or even by dispensing with, starting materials which are harmful to the environment or which generate substances that are harmful to the environment in the composition.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “stable emulsion” means an emulsion which, after 2 months of storage at 4° C., at room temperature (i.e. between 2° and 25° C.), at 37° C. and at 45° C., in particular at 45° C., does not show any macroscopic change in colour, odour or viscosity, but which, on the contrary, remains homogeneous and uniform, and which does not undergo phase separation, (no separation of the aqueous phase from the oily phase) or release any oil.
The stability of the composition can also be assessed by examining the defects of the composition after several cycles of temperature change over 10 days and also by a vibration test to simulate transport stability.
Advantageously, a composition according to the invention does not comprise any controversial ingredients, and in particular does not comprise any silicone compounds, such as silicone oils.
A composition according to the invention is used in particular for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, and preferably for caring for keratin materials.
Thus, according to another of its aspects, the invention further relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for, preferably for caring for, keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.
It is understood that the processes and methods defined according to the present invention are non-therapeutic.
Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
As stated previously, a composition according to the invention may advantageously be cosmetic.
A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin.
It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, i.e. stinging, tautness or redness, liable to discourage the user from applying this composition.
A cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a reverse emulsion of HIPE type, namely comprising a continuous fatty phase and an aqueous phase in a content of at least 50% by weight, dispersed in said fatty phase.
In particular, a composition according to the invention preferably has a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 12 Pa·s, preferably from 1.0 to 10 Pa·s, more preferentially from 2.5 to 8.0 Pa·s, for example from 5.0 to 8.0 Pa·s.
The viscosity of the composition is measured at 25° C. using a Rheomat RM100 Touch® (from the company LAMY) equipped with an MS-R4 spindle rotating at a rotational speed of 200 rpm. The measurement is taken after 10 minutes of rotation. The viscosity measurements are taken at most 1 week after production.
A composition according to the invention can be packaged in a jar.
A composition according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art.
Esters of Polyglycerol with at Least One Fatty Acid
As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least two esters that are different from each other, chosen from esters of polyglycerol with at least one fatty acid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ester of polyglycerol with at least one fatty acid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms” means an ester obtained from at least one fatty acid and polyglycerol, in which the fatty acid comprises a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably aliphatic, hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, said fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms are chosen from stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, cerotic acid, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the fatty acids used in the present invention comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is preferably branched, comprising from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and are independently chosen from stearic acid, isostearic acid, palmitic acid and arachidic acid.
According to one embodiment, at least one of the fatty acids is in a polymeric form, as is the case, for example, for polyhydroxystearic acid (polymer of 12-hydroxystearic acid).
Advantageously, the fatty acids are identical (the glycerol part then being different) or the fatty acids are different (the glycerol part possibly being identical or different), and preferably chosen independently from stearic acid, isostearic acid, poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) and mixtures thereof.
The term “polyglycerol” means a compound having the following formula:
in which the degree of condensation n ranges from 1 to 11, preferably from 2 to 6 and even more preferentially from 3 to 6.
Preferably, at least one of the polyglycerol fatty acid esters contains 2 to 15 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 10 glycerol units, in particular from 3 to 5 glycerol units.
According to one embodiment, the polyglycerol esters present in a composition according to the invention have an HLB, measured at 25° C., of less than or equal to 8.0, preferably between 0.1 and 8.0, more preferentially between 2.0 and 8.0.
The HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) is the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the surfactant molecule. This term is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB system, A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection”, published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined via the Griffin method or the Davies method. The esters of polyglycerol with at least one fatty acid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms are advantageously present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2.5% to 8.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, as esters of polyglycerol with at least one fatty acid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms:
As ester of polyglycerol with a poly(hydroxystearic acid) and carboxylic acids, mention may be made more particularly of esters derived from the reaction of a mixture of polyglycerol with (i) at least one poly(hydroxystearic acid) with from 1 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8, even more preferentially from 2 to 5 polyglycerol units (preferably 4 units); (ii) at least one linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acid containing from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 14 carbon atoms (preferably sebacic acid); and (iii) at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acid containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms (preferably isostearic acid). Advantageously, the degree of esterification of the polyglycerol mixture is between 20% and 40%, preferably between 40% and 70%.
According to one preferred embodiment, the polyglycerol ester of a poly(hydroxystearic acid) is derived from the esterification between a mixture of polyglycerol and (i) a poly(hydroxystearic acid) with 4 polyglycerol units; (ii) linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 8 to 12 carbon atoms; and (iii) saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.
As a preferred example of a poly(hydroxystearic acid) ester of polyglycerol, mention may be made of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate of formula:
in which PHS denotes polyhydroxystearic acid and IS denotes isostearic acid.
Such a polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate compound is sold, for example, under the name Isolan® GPS by the company Evonik Goldschmidt.
The polyglycerol ester of a poly(hydroxystearic acid) and carboxylic acids according to the invention may advantageously be used as a mixture with other esters of polyglycerol, in particular comprising 3 polyglycerol units, with at least one fatty acid, in particular an oleic acid.
Even more preferably, use will be made in the composition of the invention of the Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate (and) Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate mixture sold under the name Isolan® 17 MB by the company Evonik Goldschmidt.
A composition according to the invention advantageously comprises between 0.5% and 5.0% by weight, preferably between 1.0% and 4.0% by weight, more preferentially between 1.5% and 3.5% by weight, of at least one polyglycerol ester of a poly(hydroxystearic acid) and carboxylic acids as defined above, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the ester(s) of polyglycerol and a fatty acid are chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising from 4 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 4 to 10 glycerol units and a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acid containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.
As examples of fatty acids that are suitable for the synthesis of the polyglycerol ester of at least one fatty acid according to the invention, mention may be made of isostearic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, capric acid and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester(s) are chosen from the esters derived from the esterification reaction between a polyglycerol comprising from 4 to 5 glycerol units, in particular comprising 4 glycerol units, and at least one aliphatic monocarboxylic acid comprising an alkyl chain containing from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, such as a stearyl and/or isostearyl chain.
Mention may be made, for example, of the ester derived from the reaction of polyglycerol-4 (glycerol homopolymer comprising 4 glycerol units) and isostearic acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 isostearate) such as the product sold under the name Isolan® GI34 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt.
A composition according to the invention advantageously comprises between 0.1% and 5.0% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 4.0% by weight, more preferentially between 1.0% and 4.0% by weight, of at least one polyglycerol fatty acid ester, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the mass ratio of ester of polyglycerol with at least one poly(hydroxystearic acid) and carboxylic acids/ester of a polyglycerol and at of least one fatty acid is strictly greater than 0.7. It is preferably greater than or equal to 0.8, more preferentially greater than or equal to 1. In particular, the mass ratio of ester of polyglycerol with at least one poly(hydroxystearic acid) and carboxylic acids/ester of a polyglycerol and at of least one fatty acid may be between 0.8 and 2.0.
It is understood that the mass ratio is expressed as active material of the components.
As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention comprises glyceryl trihydroxystearate (INCI name: trihydroxystearin).
Glyceryl trihydroxystearate is a compound of formula (I):
It is a wax, namely a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25° C.), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30° C., in particular greater than 60° C.
For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.
A composition according to the invention advantageously comprises between 0.01% and 2.0% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 1.0% by weight, more preferentially between 0.2% and 0.8% by weight, of glyceryl trihydroxystearate, relative to the total weight of the composition.
As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 6.0% by weight of at least one filler chosen from talc, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, C8-C22 N-acylamino acid particles, modified or unmodified starches, boron nitride, polymeric fillers, metal oxides and mixtures thereof.
A filler content of at least 6% by weight, in particular of at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously makes it possible to formulate a composition according to the invention having both satisfactory stability and satisfactory sensory properties.
Moreover, the inventors have found that the nature of the filler has an influence on the rheological properties and/or the sensory properties of the composition. More precisely, the fillers required according to the invention advantageously make it possible to formulate a water-in-oil emulsion of HIPE type having a good compromise between fluidity and thickness, not leaving a greasy and/or shiny finish after application.
As an example of talcs that are suitable as filler according to the invention, mention may be made of those sold under the names Luzenac Pharma Umo (mean size 2.7 pm) by the company World Minerals (Imerys).
Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
They are generally synthesized by means of a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention preferably have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2/g and better still from 600 to 800 m2/g, and a size expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, better still from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 30 μm, more preferably from 5 to 25 μm, better still from 5 to 20 μm and even better still from 5 to 15 μm.
The specific surface area per unit mass may be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, corresponding to international standard ISO 5794/1 (annex D).
The sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
The aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
The term “hydrophobic silica” means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si—Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to U.S. Pat. No. 7,470,725.
Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably having the INCI name Silica silylate.
As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, an example that may be mentioned is the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260® or VM-2270® (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g. Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova® Aerogel MT 1200.
The silica aerogel particles, in particular of silylated silica aerogel, may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 13%, preferably in a content ranging from 1% to 5% by weight and in particular ranging from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
C5-C22 N-Acylamino Acid Particles
N-Acylamino acids that are suitable as fillers according to the invention comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group, preferably lauroyl.
The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine. According to a preferred embodiment, the C8-C22 N-acylamino acid particles are lauroyllysine particles.
By way of example, mention may be made of the lauroyllysine powder sold under the name Amihope LL® (mean size 11.7 pm) by the company Ajinomoto.
The C8-C22 N-acylamino acid particles may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 6% to 25% by weight.
The starch molecules that are suitable as fillers according to the present invention may originate from all plant sources of starch, notably cereals, vegetables and tubers. More particularly, they may be corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, oat or tapioca starches. The starch is preferably derived from corn.
Examples that may be mentioned notably include the Remy DR I® rice starch sold by the Remy company; B® Corn Starch from the company Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; the native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca Pure® by the company National Starch.
The modified starch may be a (C1-C4) carboxyalkyl starch, also referred to as “carboxyalkylstarch”. These compounds are obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl groups onto one or more alcohol functions of starch, notably by reaction of starch and of an alkali metal (such as sodium) monochloroacetate in alkaline (basic) medium.
The carboxyalkyl starches are advantageously used in the form of salts and notably of salts of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals such as Na, K, Li, NH4, or salts of a quaternary ammonium or of an organic amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine. The C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starches are preferably carboxymethylstarches.
The carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxymethyl starch (INCI name: Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch), in particular a sodium salt of carboxymethyl starch, such as those sold under the name Primojel® by the company DMV International or Glycolys® and Glycolys® LV by the company Roquette.
The modified or unmodified starch(es) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 8% by weight and preferably ranging from 2% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Boron nitride is a chemical compound having the formula BN.
Boron nitride preferably has a number-average primary size of between 1 and 50 μm, better still between 1 and 30 μm, more preferentially between 1 and 25 μm, and even more preferentially between 5 and 15 μm.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “primary particle size” means the maximum dimension that it is possible to measure between two diametrically opposite points of an individual particle. The size may be determined, for example, by transmission electron microscopy or by measuring the specific surface area via the BET method or else with a laser particle size analyser.
As commercial boron nitrides that may be used in a composition according to the invention, mention may notably be made of the boron nitrides sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics, notably under the names PUHP3002, PUHP3008 or PUHP1030L, or else Softouch BN CC6058 Powder from Momentive Performance Materials.
Boron nitride may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1.0% to 8.0% by weight, and preferably from 2.0% to 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polymeric filler” is intended to denote any filler formed from crosslinked or non-crosslinked particles of polymer(s), including homopolymers and copolymers.
Such polymeric fillers are, for example, poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®) powders, hollow polymeric microspheres, in particular polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), (co)polymers of acrylic acid such as the hollow spherical polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders sold under the names Covabead LH85 (mean size 7.5 μm) by the company Sensient or Techpolymer MBP-8 (mean size 7.5 μm) by the company Sekisui Plastics, silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® by Toshiba), polyurethane powders, in particular, crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone, elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles optionally coated with silicone resin, notably silsesquioxane resin, such as the products sold under the name KSP-100® (mean size 4.3 μm) or KSP-300® (mean size 6 μm), by the company Shin-Etsu, (INCI name: Vinyl 15 Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer), organosilicon particle powders, for example in the form of bowls or rugby balls such as those described in JP-2003 128 788, JP-A-2000-191789, or in patent application EP1579841 and sold notably under the names NLK506© (mean size 2.6 μm) and NLK602© (mean size 2.3 μm) by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat, polyamide powders, in particular Nylon 12, those sold under the name Orgasol® 2002 (mean size 9 μm) by the company Arkema, or the ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer powder sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 (mean size 12.2 μm) by the company Dow Corning.
Fillers that are suitable for use in the invention may also be chosen from metal oxides, for example iron oxide, zinc oxide, titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or aluminium oxide, preferably iron oxide.
The metal oxide(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 25% by weight and preferably ranging from 7% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
A composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one filler chosen from talc, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, C8-C22 N-acylamino acid particles, modified or unmodified starches, boron nitride, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from C8-C22 N-acylamino acid particles, modified or unmodified starches, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one filler chosen from lauroyl lysine, corn starch, and mixtures thereof, preferably a mixture of lauroyl lysine and corn starch.
Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 10% by weight of at least one filler as defined above.
In particular, such fillers may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 6.0% and 60% by weight, notably between 8.0% and 50% by weight, in particular between 10% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least, as fillers:
As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one continuous fatty phase.
The fatty phase preferably contains at least one oil, notably a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.
The term “oil” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
A fatty phase that is suitable for preparing the compositions, notably cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils, which may or may not be fluorinated, or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially is free of silicone oil(s).
A composition comprising a limited content of silicone oil(s) is advantageously more natural, but also lighter, less tacky and less rough to the touch, with a softer finish, than a composition comprising 2% by weight or more of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The term “non-volatile” refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10−3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si—O group.
The term “fluoro oil” refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and which may optionally comprise one or more, preferably one, carbonate or ester group.
The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” refers to any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, notably having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10−3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
Mention may notably be made of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, branched C8-C16 alkanes, for instance C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for instance n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol® 12-97 and Parafol® 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.
The following mixtures of linear or branched alkanes, preferably of plant origin, may also be mentioned:
Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, in particular an undecane-tridecane mixture, and linear and/or branched C15-C19 alkanes, in particular a mixture of linear and/or branched C15-C19 alkanes.
In particular, such hydrocarbon-based oils may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2.0% to 20.0% by weight and preferably from 3.0% to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.
Mention may also be made of nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.
Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may notably be mentioned include:
In particular, the composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile oil, chosen in particular from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “apolar oil” means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25° C., δa, is equal to 0 (J/cm3)1/2.
The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: “The three dimensional solubility parameters”, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
According to this Hansen space:
The parameters δp, δh, δD and δa are expressed in (J/cm3)1/2.
The non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is free of oxygen atoms.
Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin. In particular, it may be chosen from:
Said non-volatile oil may also be an ester oil, in particular containing between 18 and 70 carbon atoms.
Examples that may be mentioned include monoesters, diesters or triesters.
The ester oils may notably be hydroxylated.
The non-volatile ester oil may preferably be chosen from:
Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, fatty acid triglycerides, in particular saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol and esters of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a notably branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R1 and R2 being such that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 18, such as isoamyl laurate.
More preferentially, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, fatty acid triglycerides, in particular that are saturated, such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof.
In particular, such non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 6.0% to 25.0% by weight and preferably from 10.0% to 20.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes, different from glyceryl trihydroxystearate, for instance lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, and synthetic waxes, for instance polyethylene waxes and Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-C4-alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, for instance the products sold under the name KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the name Trefil or BY29 by the company Dow Corning, or under the name Gransil by the company Grant Industries.
As fatty substances, a composition according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one fatty alcohol wax.
Such waxes may be chosen from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
Preferentially, the fatty alcohol wax is cetyl alcohol.
As fatty substance, a composition according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one butter, in particular a plant butter.
The plant butter(s) that are suitable for use in the invention are preferably chosen from the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter and urukum butter, and mixtures thereof, and in particular is shea butter.
These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.
According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from mixtures of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 atoms, mixtures of linear and/or branched C15-C19 alkanes, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, fatty acid triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from mixtures of linear and/or branched C15-C19 alkanes, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular dicaprylyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
Such oils are in particular present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5.0% to 30% by weight and preferably from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the fatty phase content is between 5.0% and 50% by weight, in particular between 10% and 30% by weight, and preferably between 15% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase in a concentration of at least 50.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and dispersed in the fatty phase defined above.
The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
According to the present invention, the term “water-soluble solvent” denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure).
The water used may be demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Ndris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.
The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.
Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made notably of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
According to an embodiment variant, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl groups.
Such polyols are more particularly known for giving the composition increased properties in terms of moisturization. Specifically, these compounds are capable of penetrating into the stratum corneum and of keeping it moisturized.
Preferably, a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
A polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two —OH functions, in particular at least three —OH functions and more particularly at least four —OH functions.
The polyols that are suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are in particular those notably containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
The polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one polyol, in particular chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, and mixtures thereof, in particular a mixture of glycerol and at least one chosen from propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and pentylene glycol.
When they are present, the polyol(s) are preferably present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1.0% to 20% by weight, better still from 3.0% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5.0% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
The aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.
The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 85% by weight, and more preferentially from 50% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additive, notably chosen from the additives detailed below.
Needless to say, the additive(s) that may be present in a composition according to the invention are chosen so as not to alter the properties of the composition, in particular in terms of stability, but also in terms of sensory properties.
Preferably, the additives that are suitable for use in the present invention are natural or of natural origin.
Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.
In particular, the cosmetic active agent may be at least one hydrophilic active agent.
The term “hydrophilic active agent” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active agent which is capable of forming hydrogen bonds.
As hydrophilic active agents, examples that may be mentioned include moisturizers, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, humectants, anti-ageing agents; mattifying agents, cicatrizing agents, antibacterial agents, and mixtures thereof.
The additional active agent(s) may notably be chosen from:
In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from C-glycoside compounds, in particular having the following general formula:
in which:
As non-limiting illustrations of C-glycosides that are more particularly suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of the following compounds:
According to a particular embodiment, use is made of C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and better still C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or proxylane).
According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside of the formula illustrated above that is suitable for use in the invention may preferably be C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, the INCI name of which is hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, notably sold under the name Mexoryl SBB®, Mexoryl SCN® or Mexoryl SCS® by Novdal.
The C-glycoside salts that are suitable for use in the invention may comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.
Examples that may be mentioned include the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydriodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which may include one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. They may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or alternatively aromatic acids. These acids may also include one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may notably be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
The solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described above comprise conventional solvates such as those formed during the final step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples that may be mentioned include solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol. The C-glycosides having the formula illustrated above are known from WO 02/051828. According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a C-glycoside in an amount of between 0.1% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.5% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and more particularly between 1.0% and 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active chosen from niacinamide compounds, in particular chosen from niacinamide (also known as vitamin B3), N,N-diethylniacinamide, N-picolylniacinamide and N-allylniacinamide. According to a preferred embodiment, the niacinamide compound is niacinamide.
A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight of adenosine or analogue relative to the total weight of the composition.
In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise an cosmetic active agent chosen from adenosine and analogues thereof.
Among the adenosine analogues that may be used according to the invention, mention will be made notably of adenosine receptor agonists and compounds that increase the intracellular or extracellular levels of adenosine.
Examples of adenosine analogues include 2′-deoxyadenosine; 2′,3′-isopropylideneadenosine, toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine; N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside; 6-chloropurine riboside, 5′-adenosine monophosphate; 5′-adenosine diphosphate and 5′-adenosine triphosphate, phenylisopropyladenosine (“PIA”), 1-methylisoguanosine, N-6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N-6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N-6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N-6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, N-6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxyethyl)phenethylamino-5′-N-ethylcarboxamidoadenosine (CGS-21680), N-10-ethylcarboxamidoadenosine (NECA) 5′-(N-cyclopropyl)carboxamidoadenosine, metrifudil, erythro-9-(2-hydroxy-3-nonyl)adenine (“EHNA”) and iodotubercidine.
Adenosine is preferred for use in the present invention. It is notably commercially available in powder form from the company Pharma Waldhof.
A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight of adenosine or analogue relative to the total weight of the composition.
In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from ascorbic acid, also called vitamin C, and/or a derivative thereof.
The ascorbic acid may be in D or L form, advantageously in L form, and analogues thereof chosen from salts thereof, preferably sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and glycosyl ascorbic acid.
Ascorbic acid derivatives that may be mentioned in particular include sugar esters of ascorbic acid and metal salts of phosphorylated ascorbic acid.
The sugar esters of ascorbic acid that may be used in the invention are notably glycosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, galactosyl, N-acetylglucosamine and N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof and more notably ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid or else 6-O-β-D-galactopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid. The latter compounds and processes for preparing them are described in particular in EP 487 404, EP 425 066 and J05213736.
For its part, the metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid is chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline-earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.
The ascorbic acid derivatives that are suitable for use according to the present invention may be chosen from the 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilyl ascorbate sold under the reference PRO-AA by the company Exsymol, the potassium salt of dl-α-tocopheryl-dl-ascorbyl phosphate sold under the reference Sepivital EPC by the company Senju Pharmaceutical, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate sold under the reference Stay-C 50 by the company Roche and ascorbyl glucoside sold by the company Hayashibara.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is preferably used.
A composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.1% to 8% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or a derivative thereof, in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof.
In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof” notably covers the hyaluronic acid basic unit having the formula:
This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid, comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.
In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof” also comprises the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, according to a sequence with alternating β(1,4) and β(1,3) glycosidic bonds, having a molecular weight (MW) which may range between 380 and 13 000 000 daltons. This molecular weight mainly depends on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and/or the preparation methods.
In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof” also comprises hyaluronic acid salts and notably alkali metal salts such as the sodium salt and the potassium salt.
In the natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in pericellular gels, in the ground substance of connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and in particular in the epidermis, in the articular synovial fluid, in the vitreous humour, in the human umbilical cord and in the crista galli apophysis.
Thus, the term “hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof” comprises all of the hyaluronic acid fractions or subunits having a molecular weight notably within the molecular weight range recalled above.
In the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use hyaluronic acid fractions not having any inflammatory activity.
As illustrations of the various hyaluronic acid fractions, reference may be made to the document Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system, R. Stern et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid as a function of its molecular weight.
According to a favoured embodiment of the invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions that are suitable for the application intended by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50 000 and 5 000 000, in particular between 100 000 and 5 000 000, notably between 400 000 and 5 000 000 Da. It is a matter in this case of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.
Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may also be suitable for the application intended by the present invention have a molecular weight of between 50 000 and 400 000 Da. It is a matter in this case of intermediate molecular weight hyaluronic acid.
Alternatively also, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may be suitable for the application intended by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50 000 Da. It is a matter in this case of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.
Finally, the term “hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof” also comprises hyaluronic acid esters, notably those in which all or some of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with oxyethylenated alcohols or alkyls, including from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, notably with a degree of substitution on the D-glucuronic acid of the hyaluronic acid ranging from 0.5% to 50%.
Mention may notably be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters have notably been described in D. Campoccia et al. “Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification”, Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.
The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for the hyaluronic acid esters.
Hyaluronic acid may notably be sold by the company Hyactive under the trade name CPN (MW: 10 to 150 kDa), by the company Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (MW: 1.1×106), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra HA (MW: 820 000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Nutra AF (MW: 69 000 Da), by the company Bioland under the name Oligo HA (MW: 6100 Da) or by the company Vam Farma Cosmetica under the name D Factor (MW: 380 Da).
In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is in the form of spheres. In particular, such spheres are sold by the company BASF under the name Hyaluronic Acid Spheres. This is a mixture of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, namely of MW 1.5×106, 400 000 and 600 000 Da.
Sodium hyaluronate is preferably used.
The hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof is present in the composition according to the present invention in a content of between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.1% and 3% and more particularly between 0.2% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from salicylic acid compounds.
The salicylic acid compound present in the composition according to the invention is preferably chosen from salicylic acid and compounds having the following formula:
in which:
Preferentially, the radical R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and salts thereof obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.
The compounds that are more particularly preferred are those in which the radical R is a C3-C11 alkyl group.
Among the salicylic acid compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid); 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-heptanoylsalicylic acid, and the corresponding salts thereof.
The salicylic acid compound is preferably chosen from salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, and more preferentially is 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.
The salts of the compounds having the formula illustrated above may be obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base. Examples of mineral bases that may be mentioned include alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or ammonia.
Among the organic bases, mention may be made of amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts, for instance those described in the patent FR 2 607 498, are particularly advantageous.
The compounds having the formula illustrated above that may be used according to the invention are described in patents U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,159,479 and 5,558,871, FR 2 581 542, FR 2 607 498, U.S. Pat. No. 4,767,750, EP 378 936, U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,267,407, 5,667,789, 5,580,549 and EP-A-570 230.
According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one salicylic acid compound in an amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.1% and 2% by weight and more particularly between 0.2% and 1% by weight.
In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one plant extract, in particular an Aloe vera extract.
The Aloe vera extract may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of at least 0.01% by weight and at most 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 0.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The material preferentially used is known under the trade reference Aloe vera Freeze-Dried Powder 200:1 from Mexi Aloe Lab.
In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise retinol, otherwise known as vitamin A.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “retinol” is intended to denote all isomers of retinol, notably all-trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11-cis retinol, 9-cis retinol and 3,4-didehydroretinol.
Preferably, all-trans retinol is used.
A composition according to the invention may comprise an amount of retinol of between 0.02% and 5.0% by weight, notably between 0.05% and 3.0% by weight, preferably between 0.08% and 1.0% by weight and more preferentially between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is understood that the retinol content corresponds to the content of active material, also known as the solids content, of retinol introduced into the composition.
According to a particular embodiment variant, retinol can be introduced into the composition dissolved in an oil, such as a plant oil, for example soya oil, notably in a content ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably about 10% by weight in the oil.
The products sold by the company BASF notably under the name Retinol 10SU, at 10% by weight of active material in soybean oil, are most particularly suitable for use.
According to another particular embodiment variant, an encapsulated form of retinol may also be used.
Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from humectants, preferably glycerol; C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; hyaluronic acid compounds, and notably sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds, and in particular 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (capryloylsalicylic acid), ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, lactic acid, adenosine and analogues thereof, plant extracts, retinoids, in particular retinol, niacinamide compounds; and mixtures thereof.
Even more preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one anti-ageing cosmetic active agent, in particular chosen from hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, or proxylane, adenosine, niacinamide compounds, salicylic acid compounds, ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof, more particularly chosen from hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, adenosine, niacinamide compounds, and mixtures thereof.
A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 10% by weight of active agent(s), in particular of anti-ageing active agent(s), preferably from 1% to 8% by weight of active agent(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one cosmetic active agent chosen from C-glycoside compounds.
Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, notably a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising:
A composition according to the invention may comprise emulsifying surfactants, which are preferably nonionic, different from the polyglycerol esters defined above.
As examples of emulsifying surfactants, mention may be made of esters or ethers of sorbitan, of polyols or of sugars, other than polyglycerols.
As examples of polyol alkyl esters, mention may be made of polyethylene glycol esters, for instance PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel® P135 by the company ICI.
As examples of glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, mention may be made of sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel® 987 by the company ICI or sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel® 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of emulsifying surfactants, mention may be made of silicone surfactants, such as dimethicone copolyols or silicone elastomers.
As examples of dimethicone copolyols, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Dimethicone (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone sold under the brand X-22-6711D® by the company Shin-Etsu, the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC5225® C by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name DC5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning; cetyl dimethicone copolyol, for instance cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone such as the product sold under the name Abil EM® 90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt.
Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one emulsifying surfactant chosen from C8-C24, in particular C12-C22, fatty acid esters of glycerol, such as the glyceryl ester of stearic acid (name CTFA: Glyceryl Stearate).
A composition according to the invention may comprise between 0.01% and 2.0% by weight of emulsifying surfactant, different from the polyglycerol esters defined above, in particular a glycerol ester of stearic acid, preferably between 0.05% and 1.5% by weight, more preferentially between 0.1% and 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one particulate or non-particulate, water-soluble or water-insoluble dyestuff, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
For obvious reasons, this amount is liable to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired colour effect and of the colour intensity afforded by the dyestuffs under consideration, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art.
A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, notably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1.0% to 20% by weight and preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight of dyestuffs relative to the total weight of said composition.
As stated above, the dyestuffs that are suitable for use in the invention may be water-soluble, but may also be liposoluble.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “water-soluble dyestuff” means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting colour.
As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made notably of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanine (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elder), caramel and riboflavin.
The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “liposoluble dyestuff” means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with a fatty substance, and which is capable of imparting colour.
As liposoluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes, for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (0-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.
The colouring particulate materials may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.
They may notably be pigments, nacres and/or particles with metallic tints.
The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous solution, which are intended to colour and/or opacify the composition containing them.
A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, notably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1.0% to 25% by weight and preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of said composition.
Preferably, when the composition according to the invention is a makeup composition, it may comprise at least 2.5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight and more preferentially at least 15% by weight, of pigments relative to the total weight of said composition.
The pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic.
As mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide or cerium dioxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.
They may also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.
They may also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is the product sold by Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being constituted of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
Advantageously, the pigments in accordance with the invention are iron oxides and/or titanium dioxides.
The term“nacres” should be understood as meaning iridescent or non-iridescent coloured particles of any shape, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, which have a colour effect via optical interference.
A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 15% by weight of nacres relative to the total weight of said composition.
The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome nacres (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres, sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres, sold by the company Sun Chemical.
The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
Advantageously, the nacres in accordance with the invention are micas covered with titanium dioxide or with iron oxide, and also bismuth oxychloride.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “particles with a metallic tint” means any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface finish allow it to reflect the incident light, notably in a non-iridescent manner.
The particles with a metallic tint that may be used in the invention are chosen in particular from:
Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.
The term “metal derivatives” denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.
Illustrations of these particles that may be mentioned include aluminium particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company Siberline and Metalure® by the company Eckart and glass particles coated with a metallic layer, notably those described in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
The pulverulent dyestuffs as described previously may be totally or partially surface treated, with a hydrophobic agent, to make them more compatible with the oily phase of the composition of the invention, notably so that they have good wettability with oils. Thus, these treated pigments are well dispersed in the oily phase.
Hydrophobically treated pigments are notably described in EP-A-1 086 683.
The hydrophobic-treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates; polyhexafluoropropylene oxides; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
The term “alkyl” mentioned in the compounds cited previously notably denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
A composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional fillers, different from the fillers used according to the invention and detailed above.
As illustrations of these additional fillers, mention may be made of mica, silica, kaolin, hollow silica microspheres, celluloses and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferentially is free of additional filler(s) different from the fillers required according to the invention.
A composition according to the invention may also include at least one adjuvant that is customary in the cosmetic field, chosen from fragrances, film-forming polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), for example citric acid, tartaric acid or oxalic acid, chelating agents, preserving agents, and mixtures thereof.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s), and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of a composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisioned addition.
Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one preserving agent, preferably chosen from pentylene glycol, salicylic acid, potassium sorbate, phytic acid, and mixtures thereof, in particular in a content ranging from 1.0% to 12% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 9.0%, more preferentially from 4.0% to 9.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention is preferably free of compounds that may be harmful to man and/or the environment, i.e. it comprises less than 0.01% by weight, or is even free of compounds that may be harmful to man and/or the environment.
Thus, a composition according to the invention is in particular free of silicone compounds and/or of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and is preferably free of silicone compounds and of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid.
A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular of the body or of the face, preferably of the face.
These compositions may constitute cleansing, protective, treating or care creams for the face, the hands or the body, for example day creams, night creams, makeup creams, foundation creams or antisun creams.
According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or the face, preferably of the face.
In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-ageing, moisturising or photoprotective care composition, in particular an anti-ageing care composition, for the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.
According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular of the body or of the face, preferably of the face.
Thus, according to a submode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup base composition for making up. A composition of the invention may in particular be in the form of a foundation or a tinted cream.
Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.
Thus, the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, preferably for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and/or of the face.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined previously to said keratin materials.
Preferably, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined above to said keratin materials.
The cosmetic processes for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, are non-therapeutic.
In particular, a composition according to the invention may be used for combating the signs of skin ageing.
Thus, the present patent application also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for combating the signs of skin ageing.
The composition may be applied to the skin by hand or using an applicator.
The expressions “between . . . and . . . ”, “comprises from . . . to . . . ”, “formed from . . . to . . . ” and “ranging from . . . to . . . ” should be understood as being inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified.
The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed as mass percentages.
A first method for evaluating the stability is performed by observation of the composition over time, compared to a reference.
The instability may be detected by evaluating the leaching, creaming, coalescence, formation of a film at the surface, marbling, etc.
Variations in texture, appearance, colour and odour may also be evaluated.
In particular, the compositions are observed after storage for one and/or two months at different temperatures, i.e. at 4° C., room temperature, 37° C. and/or 45° C.
Another method for evaluating the stability is to observe the formulations under a microscope in non-polarized light at ×100 and if necessary ×400 magnifications.
This makes it possible to evaluate the fineness of the drops and/or the absence of aggregates and/or the presence of crystals.
The stability of the composition can be further evaluated by examining the defects in the composition after several cycles of temperature change.
Each cycle is constituted of the following steps:
Ten cycles are performed and the defects of the composition are evaluated between each cycle.
The appearance of defects between the first and fifth cycles inclusive indicates significant instability of the composition.
Finally, the stability of the composition can be evaluated using a vibrating plate test to replicate the vibratory stresses experienced by the compositions during transport. The test is performed by placing the composition, previously packed in glass jars, for example of 30 mL, on a vibrating plate rotating back and forth at 400 rpm for a period of 20 hours.
The sensory properties of the compositions are evaluated monadically by a panel of 20 people between 40 and 60 years old, skilled and trained in the description of care products, having applied daily a composition according to the invention or a comparative composition for 10 days.
For this purpose, the products are packaged in standard transparent 15 ml jars and coded. In the course of one session, samples are presented in random order to each assessor. 27 descriptors are evaluated in five sequences: appearance of the product in the jar, uptake, application to the hand, application to the face and 2 minutes after application. Each descriptor is rated on a 15 cm continuous scale bounded by a “Weak” reference product and a “Strong” reference product. The evaluation is then transcribed into a score from 0 to 15.
In particular, the texture of the composition, the tack, the greasiness and the glidance during application and after application on the skin are determined.
The cosmetic performance of the compositions after 4 days of application is also evaluated.
The anti-ageing care composition for the face 1 according to the invention, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, and a composition 2 outside the invention, are prepared in the weight proportions as detailed in Table 1 below. The values are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
Zea mays (corn) starch (Maisita 9060 from the
The compositions are prepared according to the protocol described in detail below, in a Minilab reactor.
Place phase A in a tank and heat to a temperature of between 50° C. and 55° C., then stir for 10 minutes using paddles at 30 rpm and a rotor at 4000 rpm.
In parallel, weigh out phase B and heat in a deflocculator at 50° C. until totally homogenized. In the tank at 50-55° C., stop the hot water bath and add phase B through the introduction cone over 15-20 minutes with a paddle speed of 30 rpm and a rotor speed of 4000 rpm, then emulsify under vacuum at −0.5 bar for about 5 minutes using paddles at 30 rpm and a rotor at 4000 rpm.
Start cooling in a water bath at 20° C. and leave to stir under vacuum at −0.5 bar using paddles at 20 rpm.
When the temperature is below 30° C., incorporate the fillers from the top of the tank with stirring using paddles at 30 rpm and then 50 rpm for 2 min to slurry the particles. Lift the lid to scrape off the excess and recommence stirring under vacuum at −0.7 bar and stirring with a rotor at 4000 rpm and paddles at 40 rpm.
Incorporate the alcohol phase through the introduction cone over about 5 minutes followed by 10 minutes of homogenization under vacuum at −0.7 bar using paddles at 40 rpm and a rotor at 4000 rpm.
The sensory properties of formulations 1 and 2 were evaluated by the panel as detailed above, compared with each other and with the commercial composition according to Table 2 below.
Formulation 3, which is not part of the invention, differs from formulations 1 and 2 in that it is a water-in-oil emulsion.
Moreover, this formulation does not include any filler as required according to the invention.
Formulations 1 and 2 were similar in terms of texture when opened, but formulation 1, according to the invention, offered a better compromise between thickness and fluidity.
Formulation 1, according to the invention, was easy to apply to the skin, gave a fresh sensation on application and afforded good moisturization of the skin and smoothing of wrinkles for 24 hours.
A quarter of the panel felt that formulation 2, outside the invention, formed a greasy film on the skin when applied and had a shiny finish.
Formulation 3, outside the invention, was too thick and was not satisfactory in terms of softness. It was difficult to apply, uncomfortable when applied and had a greasy, tacky finish on the skin.
After 4 days of application, formulation 1, according to the invention, allowed good moisturization of the skin, reduced the visibility of wrinkles and fine lines and made the skin more supple, softer and more radiant. Half of the panel considered that the skin was smoother after 4 days of use of formulation 1 according to the invention, whereas only a quarter of the panel considered that the skin was smoother with formulation 2, not in accordance with the invention.
After 4 days of application, a quarter of the panel considered that formulation 3, outside the invention, was stiff and/or unsatisfactory in terms of skin moisturization. In addition, this formulation did not achieve the anti-ageing performance obtained with formulation 1 according to the invention.
The anti-ageing facial care compositions, in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, 4 and 5 according to the invention, and composition 6, outside the invention, are prepared in the weight proportions as detailed in Table 3 below. The values are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
The protocol for preparing these formulations is identical to that detailed in Example 1 above.
Zea mays (corn) starch (Maisita 9060 from
The anti-ageing facial care composition, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, 7 according to the invention, and compositions 8 and 9, outside the invention, are prepared in the weight proportions as detailed in Table 4 below. The values are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
The protocol for preparing these formulations is identical to that detailed in Example 1 above.
Zea mays (corn) starch (Maisita 9060 from
Formulation 1, according to the invention, detailed in Example 1, and formulations 4 to 9 were evaluated as regards their sensory properties and stability after storage for 1 or 2 months at 45° C. as detailed in the stability measurement protocol above.
Formulations 1, 4, 5 and 7, in accordance with the invention, show both good stability and good sensory properties.
Formulations 6, 8, 9 and 10, outside the invention, in particular comprising a lauroyl lysine or corn starch filler in a content of less than 6% by weight, do not make it possible to obtain both good sensory properties and acceptable stability. In particular, formulations 6 and 9, although stable, are unsatisfactory in terms of sensory properties.
Formulation 8 is not stable after storage for 2 months at 45° C.
The care compositions, in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, 11 to 15 outside the invention, in particular comprising a filler content of less than 6% by weight, are prepared in the weight proportions as detailed in Table 5 below. The values are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
The protocol for preparing these formulations is identical to that detailed in Example 1 above.
Zea mays (corn)
Formulations 11 to 15 do not show satisfactory stability, notably as evaluated after storage for 2 months at 45° C.
The care compositions, in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, 16 to 19 outside the invention, in particular comprising a filler content of less than 6% by weight, are prepared in the weight proportions as detailed in Table 6 below. The values are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
The protocol for preparing these formulations is identical to that detailed in Example 1 above.
Zea mays (corn) starch (Maisita 9060 from the
Formulations 16 to 19 do not have satisfactory sensory properties.
Formulations 17 and 18 have satisfactory stability but formulation 18 is not stable since it undergoes coalescence after storage for 2 months at 45° C.
The care compositions, in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, 20 and 21 outside the invention, in particular comprising fillers different from those required according to the invention in a content of less than 6% by weight, are prepared, in the weight proportions as detailed in Table 7 below. The values are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
The protocol for preparing these formulations is identical to that detailed in Example 1 above.
Formulations 20 and 21 do not show satisfactory stability.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR2113208 | Dec 2021 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2022/084866 | 12/7/2022 | WO |
