Patent Application
20180161253
The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one particular anionic associative polymer, one particular fixing polymer and one particular anionic polymer different from the anionic associative polymer and from the anionic fixing polymer.
The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, using the composition according to the invention.
The invention also relates to the use of said composition for styling keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
Styling products are usually used to construct and structure the hairstyle and to give it long-lasting hold. These compositions generally comprise one or more fixing film-forming polymers, in a cosmetically acceptable medium. These polymers allow the formation of a coating film on the hair in order to provide form retention of the hairstyle.
Styling products are generally in the form of lacquers, mousses or else gels.
In particular, styling gels are often used in order to obtain strong fixing of the hairstyle.
These styling gels are solutions of one or more fixing film-forming polymers, thickened or gelled with one or more thickening polymers.
These thickening polymers are introduced in an attempt to give the composition good usage qualities such as easy uptake in the hands, better distribution and good spreading on the hair.
However, the strong fixing styling gels of the prior art generally have several drawbacks. They are especially difficult to distribute both on the hands and/or the hair and do not spread out sufficiently over the whole of the head of hair. In addition, the fixing obtained is sometimes insufficient and the hold of the hairstyle over time is not completely satisfactory, the film formed by the gel having a tendency to disintegrate over time.
There is therefore a real need to formulate a composition, especially a styling composition that enables a high level of fixing, with an improved durability of the hair shaping and which is easy to distribute on the hands and/or the hair.
It has now been discovered that the combination of one or more particular anionic associative polymers, one or more particular fixing polymers, and one or more particular anionic polymers different from those mentioned makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition which has high styling performance, especially in terms of level of fixing and of durability of the hair shaping, while retaining good usage qualities. In particular, the compositions according to the invention have an improved resistance, especially an improved resistance to mechanical friction.
One subject of the present invention is thus especially a composition comprising:
The composition according to the invention thus has high styling performance, and in particular great fixing power and long-lasting hold of the hairstyle treated with this composition with an improved feel. A flexible hairstyle is also obtained, and also a long-lasting flexibility. Furthermore, shiny hair is obtained. The gel obtained has also an improved resistance to friction which is not rapidly eroded.
The composition according to the invention also has good usage qualities. In particular it has a texture which enables it to facilitate the grasping thereof and the distribution thereof over the head of hair.
Another subject of the present invention is the use of the abovementioned composition for styling keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
Yet another subject of the invention is a method for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application of the abovementioned composition to said keratin fibres.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even more clearly apparent on reading the description and the examples which follow.
In the text hereinbelow, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from . . . to . . . ”.
In addition, the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “associative polymer” means an amphiphilic polymer that is capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with itself or with other molecules. It generally comprises, in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophobic group” means a group or a polymer bearing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain. When it denotes a hydrocarbon-based group, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based hydrophobic group originates from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or else from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol, such as Steareth-100. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
In other words, the anionic associative polymer is an anionic amphiphilic polymer.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fixing polymer” means a polymer that is capable of giving a head of hair a shape and/or of holding the head of hair in a given shape.
As explained previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one particular anionic associative polymer (i).
The anionic associative polymer (i) comprises at least one unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (II) below:
with R1 and R2, independently of each other, representing a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
R3 representing a C8-C30 alkyl radical, M1 representing a hydrogen atom or a physiologically acceptable cation, and
A1 representing a group —(CH2CH2O)x—, x being an integer ranging from 5 to 35, a group —(CH2CHMeO)y—, y being an integer ranging from 5 to 35, or a group —(CH2CH2O)x—(CH2CHMeO)y—, the sum x+y being an integer ranging from 5 to 35 with x and y being greater than 0.
As C8 to C30 alkyl radical according to the invention, mention may be made especially of the following radicals: octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachidyl) and docosyl (behenyl).
In the above formulae and in all the following formulae, a chemical bond indicated by the symbol * corresponds to a free valency of the structural fragment in question.
As physiologically acceptable cation in formula (I) above and also in the other formulae of the description, mention may be made especially of cations of the physiologically acceptable metals of groups Ia, Ib, IIa, IIb, IIIb, VIa and VIII of the Periodic Table of the Elements, ions of ammonium type and cationic organic compounds comprising a quaternized nitrogen atom. The latter are formed, for example, by protonation, using an acid, of a primary, secondary or tertiary organic amine, or else by permanent quaternization of such organic amines. Examples of these cationic organic ammonium compounds are 2-ammonioethanol and 2-trimethylammonioethanol.
Preferably, M1 denotes a hydrogen atom, a sodium ion or an ion derived from an alkanolamine.
In a first embodiment of the invention, the anionic associative polymer(s) (i) that can be used in the composition according to the invention is (are) chosen from those in which, in formula (II), A1 represents a group of formula —(CH2CH2O)x—, x being an integer ranging from 5 to 35 and in particular ranging from 10 to 24.
In a second embodiment of the invention, the anionic associative polymer(s) (i) comprise(s) a unit of formula (II) above in which R3 represents a C12-C20 alkyl radical.
In a third embodiment of the invention, the anionic associative polymer(s) (i) that can be used in the composition according to the invention is (are) chosen from those in which, in formula (II), R2 represents a methyl group.
In a fourth embodiment of the invention, the anionic associative polymer(s) (i) comprise(s) at least one unit of formula (I) as defined above and at least one unit of formula (II′) below:
with R1 representing a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, M1 representing a hydrogen atom or a physiologically acceptable cation, R3 representing a C8 to C30 alkyl radical and x being an integer ranging from 5 to 35 and preferably ranging from 10 to 24.
Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the anionic associative polymer(s) (i) are crosslinked.
For the purposes of the invention, the terms “crosslinked” and “crosslinking” should be understood as meaning the interconnection of the polymer chains via covalent chemical bonds, with formation of a network. This covalent connection of the polymer chains may be performed via direct covalent bonds or by means of molecular fragments forming bridges between the polymer chains. Such a molecular fragment is linked via a covalent chemical bond to each of the polymer chains between which it forms a bridge. For the purposes of the invention, the term “non-crosslinked” should be understood as meaning the absence of any “crosslinking” as defined above.
Crosslinking of the anionic associative polymer(s) is generally performed using at least one crosslinking agent.
The crosslinking agent(s) may be chosen especially from polyunsaturated aromatic compounds such as divinylbenzenes, divinylnaphthalenes and trivinylbenzenes, polyunsaturated alicyclic compounds such as 1,2,4-trivinylcyclohexane, phthalic acid diesters such as diallyl phthalate, polyunsaturated aliphatic compounds such as dienes, trienes and tetraenes, for instance isoprene, 1,3-butadiene, 1,5-hexadiene, 1,5,9-decatriene, 1,9-decadiene and 1,5-heptadiene, polyalkenyl ethers such as triallyl pentaerythritol, diallyl pentaerythritol, diallyl sucrose, octaallyl sucrose and trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, polyunsaturated esters of polyols or of polyacids such as 1,6-hexanediol di(meth)acrylate, tetramethylolmethane tri(meth)acrylate, allyl acrylate, diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, trimethylolpropane tri(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane di(meth)acrylate and polyethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate such as ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, diethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate and triethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, alkylenebisacrylamides such as methylenebisacrylamide and propylenebisacrylamide, hydroxyl or carboxyl derivatives of methylenebisacrylamide such as N,N′-bis(methylol)methylenebisacrylamide, polyunsaturated silanes such as dimethyldivinylsilane, methyltrivinylsilane, allyldimethylvinylsilane, diallyldimethylsilane and tetravinylsilane, N-methylolacrylamide, N-alkoxy(meth)acrylamides in which the alkoxy group is a C1-C18 alkoxy group, hydrolysable unsaturated silanes such as triethoxyvinylsilane, triisopropoxyvinylsilane and 3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl methacrylate, hydrolysable silanes such as ethyltriethoxysilane and ethyltrimethoxysilane, hydrolysable silanes bearing an epoxy substituent such as [2-(3,4-epoxycyclohexyl)ethyl]triethoxysilane and (3-glycidyloxypropyl)trimethoxysilane, polyisocyanates such as butane 1,4-diisocyanate, hexane 1,6-diisocyanate, phenylene 1,4-diisocyanate and 4,4′-oxybis(phenyl isocyanate), unsaturated epoxides such as glycidyl methacrylate and allyl glycidyl ether, polyepoxides such as 1,2,5,6-diepoxyhexane diglycidyl ether and ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, ethoxylated polyols such as diols, triols or diphenols, in each case ethoxylated with 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of hydroxyl groups and bearing, as end group, a polymerizable unsaturated group, for instance a group of vinyl ether, allyl ether, acrylate ester or methacrylate ester type, and acrylate and methacrylate esters of polyols comprising at least two functional groups of acrylate or methacrylate ester type such as trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA), 15-ethoxylated trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPEO15TA), trimethylolpropane dimethacrylate, triethylene glycol dimethacrylate (TEGDMA) and bisphenol A dimethacrylate ethoxylated with 30 mole of ethylene oxide (EOBDMA). Ethoxylated polyols that may especially be mentioned include ethoxylated bisphenol A di(meth)acrylate, ethoxylated bisphenol F di(meth)acrylate and ethoxylated trimethylolpropane tri(meth)acrylate.
In a preferred variant of the invention, the anionic associative polymer(s) (i) comprise(s), in addition to at least one unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (II) or (II′), at least one unit of formula (III) below:
with R4 representing a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, and
R5 representing a C1 to C4 alkyl group, and in particular a methyl or ethyl group. Preferably, R5 represents an ethyl group.
In a particularly preferred embodiment of this variant, the anionic associative polymer(s) (i) preferably comprise(s) at least one unit of formula (I) as defined above, at least one unit of formula (II) or (II′) as defined above and at least one unit of formula (III) as defined above, with R1 and R4, independently of each other, representing a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R3 representing a C8 to C30 alkyl group, R5 representing a C1 to C4 alkyl group, preferably an ethyl or methyl group, M1 representing a hydrogen atom or a physiologically acceptable cation, and x being an integer ranging from 5 to 35 and preferably ranging from 10 to 24.
Preferably, M1 denotes a hydrogen atom, a sodium ion or an ion derived from an alkanolamine.
Preferably, an anionic associative polymer (i) that is most particularly suitable for the composition according to the invention is the acrylate/steareth-20 methacrylate crosslinked copolymer (INCI name: acrylate/steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer) which comprises 20 ethylene oxide units. Such a polymer is sold, for example, by the company Röhm & Haas, in the form of a dispersion at 28-30% by weight in water, under the brand name Aculyn® 88.
The particular anionic associative polymer(s) (i) may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and in particular from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
As explained previously, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more particular anionic fixing polymers (ii). These anionic fixing polymer(s) (ii) are different from the anionic associative polymers (i) described above.
The anionic fixing polymer(s) (ii) that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise at least one unit of formula (IV) and at least one unit of formula (V) below:
with R6 and R7, independently of each other, representing a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, and
M2 representing a hydrogen atom or a physiologically acceptable cation.
As physiologically acceptable cation in formula (IV) above and also in the other formulae of the description, mention may be made especially of cations of the physiologically acceptable metals of groups Ia, Ib, IIa, IIb, IIIb, VIa and VIII of the Periodic Table of the Elements, ions of ammonium type and cationic organic compounds comprising a quaternized nitrogen atom. The latter are formed, for example, by protonation, using an acid, of a primary, secondary or tertiary organic amine, or else by permanent quaternization of such organic amines. Examples of these cationic organic ammonium compounds are 2-ammonioethanol and 2-trimethylammonioethanol.
Preferably, M2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a sodium ion or an ion derived from an alkanolamine.
In a preferred variant of the invention, the anionic fixing polymer(s) (ii) also comprise at least one unit of formula (IV), at least one unit of formula (V), and at least one unit of formula (III) as defined above, with R4 representing a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, and R5 representing a C1 to C4 alkyl group, in particular a methyl, ethyl or n-butyl group.
Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the anionic fixing polymer(s) (ii) are non-crosslinked.
Preferably, the anionic fixing polymer (ii) that can be used in the composition according to the invention is a copolymer of methacrylic acid/hydroxyethyl methacrylate and of at least one C1 to C4 (meth)acrylic acid ester.
In a most particularly preferred manner, the anionic fixing polymer (ii) that can be used in the composition according to the invention is a methacrylic acid/hydroxyethyl methacrylate/methyl methacrylate/butyl acrylate linear tetrapolymer.
Such a polymer is known especially under the trade name Acudyne® 180 and is sold by the company Röhm & Haas.
The anionic fixing polymer(s) (ii) may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 10%, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one anionic polymer (iii) different from the associative polymers (i) and from the anionic fixing polymers (ii) defined above, which comprises:
The anionic polymer (iii) preferably has a molecular weight of between 50 000 and 1 000 000, preferably between 100 000 and 500 000.
The anionic polymer (iii) is preferably crosslinked.
The crosslinking agent(s) may be chosen especially from polyunsaturated aromatic compounds such as divinylbenzenes, divinylnaphthalenes and trivinylbenzenes, polyunsaturated alicyclic compounds such as 1,2,4-trivinylcyclohexane, phthalic acid diesters such as diallyl phthalate, polyunsaturated aliphatic compounds such as dienes, trienes and tetraenes, for instance isoprene, 1,3-butadiene, 1,5-hexadiene, 1,5,9-decatriene, 1,9-decadiene and 1,5-heptadiene, polyalkenyl ethers such as triallyl pentaerythritol, diallyl pentaerythritol, diallyl sucrose, octaallyl sucrose and trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, polyunsaturated esters of polyols or of polyacids such as 1,6-hexanediol di(meth)acrylate, tetramethylolmethane tri(meth)acrylate, allyl acrylate, diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate, trimethylolpropane tri(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane di(meth)acrylate and polyethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate such as ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, diethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate and triethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, alkylenebisacrylamides such as methylenebisacrylamide and propylenebisacrylamide, hydroxyl or carboxyl derivatives of methylenebisacrylamide such as N,N′-bis(methylol)methylenebisacrylamide, polyunsaturated silanes such as dimethyldivinylsilane, methyltrivinylsilane, allyldimethylvinylsilane, diallyldimethylsilane and tetravinylsilane, N-methylolacrylamide, N-alkoxy(meth)acrylamides in which the alkoxy group is a C1-C18 alkoxy group, hydrolysable unsaturated silanes such as triethoxyvinylsilane, triisopropoxyvinylsilane and 3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl methacrylate, hydrolysable silanes such as ethyltriethoxysilane and ethyltrimethoxysilane, hydrolysable silanes bearing an epoxy substituent such as [2-(3,4-epoxycyclohexyl)ethyl]triethoxysilane and (3-glycidyloxypropyl)trimethoxysilane, polyisocyanates such as butane 1,4-diisocyanate, hexane 1,6-diisocyanate, phenylene 1,4-diisocyanate and 4,4′-oxybis(phenyl isocyanate), unsaturated epoxides such as glycidyl methacrylate and allyl glycidyl ether, polyepoxides such as 1,2,5,6-diepoxyhexane diglycidyl ether and ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, ethoxylated polyols such as diols, triols or diphenols, in each case ethoxylated with 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of hydroxyl groups and bearing, as end group, a polymerizable unsaturated group, for instance a group of vinyl ether, allyl ether, acrylate ester or methacrylate ester type, and acrylate and methacrylate esters of polyols comprising at least two functional groups of acrylate or methacrylate ester type such as trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA), 15-ethoxylated trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPEO15TA), trimethylolpropane dimethacrylate, triethylene glycol dimethacrylate (TEGDMA) and bisphenol A dimethacrylate ethoxylated with 30 mole of ethylene oxide (EOBDMA). Ethoxylated polyols that may especially be mentioned include ethoxylated bisphenol A di(meth)acrylate, ethoxylated bisphenol F di(meth)acrylate and ethoxylated trimethylolpropane tri(meth)acrylate.
When it is crosslinked, the anionic polymer (iii) may comprise between 0.01% and 4% by weight of crosslinking agent relative to the total weight of the polymer.
Preferably, the anionic polymer (iii) comprises less than 10% by weight of (meth)acrylic ester monomer with a hydrophobic chain relative to the total weight of the polymer.
More preferably, the anionic polymer (iii) comprises between 1% and 5% by weight of (meth)acrylic ester monomer with a hydrophobic chain relative to the total weight of the polymer.
The anionic polymer (iii) may also comprise from 45% to 65% by weight of C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer.
It may also comprise from 30% to 50% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid monomer.
According to one particular embodiment, the anionic polymer (iii) comprises:
Preferably, the C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer is an ethyl acrylate monomer.
The (meth)acrylic ester monomer with a hydrophobic chain preferably comprises an oxyalkylenated, saturated or unsaturated, hydrophobic chain.
Preferably, the (meth)acrylic ester monomer with a hydrophobic chain is a (meth)acrylic ester monomer of formula (VI):
in which
R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl;
R2 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrophobic hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 8 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms;
ALK is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based divalent group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms such as the ethylene group,
x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 100, preferably from 1 to 50, better still from 1 to 20.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (VI), the group R1 represents a methyl.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, R2 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrophobic hydrocarbon-based radical preferably comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
According to one particular embodiment, the anionic polymer (iii) comprises:
Preferably, an anionic polymer (iii) that is most particularly suitable for the composition according to the invention is a (meth)acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/(meth)acrylate with a hydrophobic chain copolymer (INCI name: acrylates copolymer). Such a polymer is for example sold by Ashland under the trade name Aquastyle SH-100.
The anionic polymer(s) (iii) preferably represent(s) from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 10%, and in particular from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio of the anionic polymer (iii) to the anionic associative polymer (i) ranges from 0.01 to 10, and preferably from 0.05 to 5 and in particular from 0.1 to 3.
Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio of the anionic fixing polymer (ii) to the anionic associative polymer (i) ranges from 0.01 to 10, and preferably from 0.05 to 6 and in particular from 0.1 to 4.
Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio of the anionic polymer (iii) to the anionic fixing polymer (ii) ranges from 0.01 to 10, and preferably from 0.05 to 5 and in particular from 0.1 to 3.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises:
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.
The term “anionic surfactant” is intended to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups: CO2H, CO2−, SO3H, SO3−, OSO3H, OSO3−, H2PO3, HPO3−, PO32−, H2PO2−, HPO2, PO22−, POH, PO−.
As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N—(C1-C4)alkyl N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise mentioned) generally comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.
These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
The anionic surfactants optionally present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. anionic surfactants without a sulfate function.
Mention may in particular be made, as regards the mild anionic surfactants, of the following compounds and their salts, and also mixtures thereof:
polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids;
polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids;
polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups,
alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids;
acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates; and
alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters.
Use may very particularly be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 EO), for example sold under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA from Kao.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the present invention may especially be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines or (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)-alkylsulfobetaines.
Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (A1), (A2) and (A3) below:
Ra—CONHCH2CH2—N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO−) (A1)
in which:
Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra—COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group, and
Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
and
Ra′—CONHCH2CH2—N(B)(B′) (A2)
in which:
B represents —CH2CH2OX′,
B′ represents —(CH2)z—Y′, with z=1 or 2,
X′ represents the group —CH2—COOH, CH2—COOZ′, —CH2CH2—COOH or —CH2CH2—COOZ′, or a hydrogen atom,
Y′ represents —COOH, —COOZ′, or the group CH2—CHOH—SO3H or CH2—CHOH—SO3Z′,
Z′ represents an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine.
Ra′ represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra′—COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
These compounds of formulae (A1) and (A2) are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
Ra″—NHCH(Y″)—(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n′—N(Rd)(Re) (A3)
in which formula:
Among the compounds of formula (A3I), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
Among the abovementioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, it is preferred to use (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C3-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.
The nonionic surfactant(s) in the compositions of the present invention are especially described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are especially chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty α-diols, fatty (C1-C20)alkylphenols and fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 1 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 1 to 30.
Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated plant oils such as oxyethylenated castor oil, N—(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N—(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
The cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include:
in which the groups R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group, such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X− is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (C1-C4)alkylsufonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
Preference is given, among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethyl-ammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or also, on the other hand, to distearoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or also, finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.
in which
R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,
R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X− is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates and (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo.
in which R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,
R17 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group —(CH2)3—N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a),
R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
X− is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75).
in which:
R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
R23 is chosen from:
R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers having values from 2 to 6,
r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, have the values 0 or 1,
r2+r1=2 r and t1+t2=2 t,
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers having values from 0 to 10,
X− is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion, with the proviso that the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.
The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x+y+z has a value from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or be short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably has from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X− is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1-C4)alkyl sulfate, or a (C1-C4)alkylsulfonate or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function.
The anion X− is more particularly still chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) in which:
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
Among the compounds of formula (XIII), examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents U.S. Pat. No. 4,874,554 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,137,180.
Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, when they are present, the surfactant(s) are chosen from nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.
When the composition comprises one or more surfactants, their content may preferably range from 0.05% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives chosen from fatty subtances, silicones, plasticizers, co-thickeners other than those described previously, sunscreens, antioxidants, acids, bases, fragrances, preserving agents, mineral fillers, nacreous agents, opacifiers, dyes and glitter flakes.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amounts thereof so that they do not interfere with the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
These additives may each be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Particularly preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises water, which advantageously represents from 30% to 99% by weight, preferably from 35% to 95% by weight and better still from 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition may also comprise one or more water-soluble organic solvents (solubility of greater than or equal to 5% by weight in water at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure).
Examples of water-soluble organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched and preferably saturated monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenylethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially C1 to C4 alkyl ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
The water-soluble organic solvents, when they are present, generally represent from 1% to 40% by weight and preferably from 5% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the pH ranges from 3 to 11 and preferably from 4 to 9.
The composition according to the invention may be in the form of liquids that are more or less thickened, gels, creams, pastes or mousses.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in gel form.
In a preferred variant, the viscosity of the compositions of the invention is greater than or equal to 0.1 Pa·s, better still greater than or equal to 0.2 Pa·s and even better still greater than or equal to 0.5 Pa·s at 25° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s−1. This viscosity can be determined with a rheometer having cone-plate geometry.
Another subject of the invention is the use of the composition as defined previously for styling the hair.
A final subject of the invention is a method for treating keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the application of the composition as defined previously to the keratin fibres, with or without final rinsing after an optional leave-on time.
Preferably, the application of the composition of the invention is not rinsed off.
The composition according to the invention may be applied at room temperature (T=25° C.) or with a supply of heat (45 to 230° C.).
The examples that follow are given purely as illustrations of the present invention.
The following compositions A to C according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. The concentrations are expressed as weight percentages of active material in the final composition.
(1) Aquastyle SH 100 sold by the company Ashland
(2)Acudyne 180 sold by the company Röhm & Haas
(3) Aculyn 88 sold by the company Röhm & Haas
The compositions A to C according to the invention are in the form of a gel and are used as styling gel at room temperature (25° C.). They are applied to dry or towel-dried clean hair in an amount of 5 g of composition per head.
The compositions A to C according to the invention have a texture that results in improved usage qualities that enable good use of the gel, in particular with easier uptake and distribution. This enables good spreading of the gel over the hair.
Furthermore, these compositions make it possible to obtain high styling performance, i.e. good fixing and a long-lasting hold of the hairstyle.
The composition D according to the invention and the comparative composition E that follow were also prepared, from the ingredients indicated in the table below:
The concentrations are expressed as weight percentages of active material in the final composition.
(1)Aquastyle SH 100 sold by the company Ashland
(2)Acudyne 180 sold by the company Röhm & Haas
(3) Aculyn 88 sold by the company Röhm & Haas
With the composition D according to the invention, a gel is obtained which has a texture that enables good grasping and an easy application of the product to the hair. With the comparative composition E, an excessively thick gel is obtained which is difficult to apply to the hair.
The two compositions were applied to a malleable head, the composition D having been applied to one half of the head and the composition E having been applied to the other half.
After 12 passes of a hand on each side, a persistence of the film formed by the composition D of the invention is observed whereas the film formed by the composition E disintegrated. The hair treated with the composition D is still coated whereas the hair treated with the composition E is individualized.
A better form retention of the hairstyle is obtained with the composition D than with the composition E.
The composition D of the invention therefore makes it possible to obtain a styling gel that has an improved resistance to mechanical friction.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1555097 | Jun 2015 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2016/062707 | 6/3/2016 | WO | 00 |
