Patent Application
20210346249
The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising one or more UV-screening agents, one or more anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymers, one or more surfactants having an HLB less than or equal to 5 and one or more specific silicone copolymers.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating the skin against UV radiation using said composition.
Light radiation with a wavelength of between 280 and 400 nm makes it possible to brown human epidermis. Rays with a wavelength of between 280 and 320 nm, known as UVB rays, cause skin erythema and burns which can be detrimental to the development of a tan. Rays with a wavelength of between 320 and 400 nm, known as UVA rays, are capable of bringing about a detrimental change in the skin, with in particular a loss of elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles, resulting in premature ageing.
UV rays must therefore be screened out. Currently, there exist protective cosmetic compositions for the human epidermis containing UV-screening agents which are active with regard to screening out UVA and UVB radiation.
The conditions for using an anti-sun composition are extremely varied and depend on the activities performed by the consumer. Use on the beach is very common, thereby resulting in applications both to dry skin and to wet skin, in particular after swimming.
However, on wet skin, active substances, such as UV-screening agents, have a tendency to become diluted, impairing their skin protection properties.
Among the various textures of anti-sun compositions that exist, the majority of them are difficult to apply to wet skin. This is because the spreading of the composition on wet skin brings about a considerable whitening effect, which is not very pleasant for the consumer. Very lengthy massaging of the composition is then required in order to obtain a uniform appearance. This is in particular the case with milk textures, which are widely appreciated moreover for their qualities in terms of application to dry skin.
Currently, alcoholic transparent compositions, generally provided in a pump-spray packaging, correspond to the compositions that are the most compatible with application to wet skin. The whitening effect on the skin and the application are acceptable, but do not however correspond to good qualities with regard to use on wet skin. Their anti-sun protection properties are not entirely satisfactory.
Moreover, these compositions comprise substantial alcohol contents and consequently have many drawbacks. They cannot, for example, be used on the face and can cause a drying out effect on the skin.
Thus, there is a real need to make available an anti-sun composition which does not have the drawbacks mentioned above, that is to say a milk-type anti-sun composition which is stable, which is compatible with application to wet skin, and the in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) level of which is high.
The applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising one or more UV-screening agents, one or more anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymers, one or more surfactants having an HLB less than or equal to 5 and one or more specific silicone copolymers makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above, in particular to obtain a screening composition with a high SPF and having an excellent compatibility with application to wet skin.
A subject of the present invention is in particular a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
a) an oily phase, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase,
b) one or more UV-screening agents,
c) one or more anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymers,
d) one or more surfactants having an HLB less than or equal to 5, and
e) one or more silicone copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of at least one monomer of the type of an ester of a carboxylic acid and of an alcohol comprising a C6 to C30 fatty chain, with at least one monomer containing a polyalkylsiloxane chain.
Contrary to the conventional anti-sun compositions, the composition of the invention makes it possible to combine a satisfactory application to wet skin with a high sun protection.
Indeed, the composition of the invention exhibits good use properties. It spreads easily and allows uniform application without the appearance of a whitish film on the skin.
The composition also makes it possible to filter out UV rays at a high SPF, consequently leading to better skin protection.
The composition of the invention is also stable over time.
Moreover, the composition of the invention has good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of tacky-feel effect. It is in fact pleasant and not very tacky.
A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic method for treating the skin, in particular human skin, against UV radiation, consisting in applying to said skin the composition according to the invention.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even more clearly apparent on reading the description and the examples which follow.
In the text hereinbelow, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from . . . to . . . ”.
Moreover, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in this description are equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal” respectively.
For the purposes of the present patent application, the term “(meth)acrylic” and “(meth)acrylate” are intended to mean acrylic or methacrylic and acrylate or methacrylate.
For the purposes of the present application, the term “high SPF” is intended to mean an in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) which can reach a value of at least 100, and preferably of at least 130. The level of sun protection is defined by the sun protection factor (SPF) which is determined according to the “in vitro” method described by B. L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989).
According to the present invention, the term “stable over time” is intended to mean a composition which, after one month, preferably after two months, of storage at a temperature ranging from 4° C. to 45° C., does not exhibit any macroscopic change in colour, in odour or in viscosity, nor any variation in pH, and also no variation in microscopic appearance.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “good compatibility on wet skin” is intended to mean that on application of the composition in a proportion of 2 mg·cm−2, to a pre-wetted skin substitute substrate, a uniform film which is transparent to the naked eye is obtained.
UV-Screening Agents
The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more UV-screening agents.
According to one preferred embodiment, the UV-screening agent(s) are included in the oily phase of the composition.
According to the present invention, the expression “UV-screening agents” is equivalent to the expression “photoprotective agent”.
More particularly, the UV-screening agent(s) that are suitable for the present invention are chosen from water-soluble organic UV-screening agents, liposoluble organic UV-screening agents, insoluble organic UV-screening agents, inorganic UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from water-soluble organic UV-screening agents, liposoluble organic UV-screening agents, insoluble organic UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the UV-screening agent(s) are chosen from water-soluble organic UV-screening agents, liposoluble organic UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially from liposoluble organic UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
The term “water-soluble organic UV-screening agent” is intended to mean any organic compound for screening out UV radiation which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or else can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
The term “liposoluble organic UV-screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic compound for screening out UV radiation which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in an oily phase or else can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an oily phase.
The term “insoluble organic UV-screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic compound for screening out UV radiation which has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in the majority of organic solvents such as liquid paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® sold by the company Dynamit Nobel. This solubility, determined at 70° C., is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to ambient temperature. It may be readily evaluated in the laboratory.
The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more water-soluble organic UV-screening agents chosen from water-soluble organic UVA-screening agents, water-soluble organic UVB-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
The term “water-soluble organic UVA-screening agent” is intended to mean any organic compound for screening out UVA radiation in the wavelength range 320 to 400 nm which can be fully dissolved in molecular form or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or else can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
Among the water-soluble organic UVA-screening agents that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of benzene-1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic) acid (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and the various salts thereof, described in particular in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347.
These screening agents correspond to general formula (I) below:
in which F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or else an NH(R1)3+ radical in which the R1 radicals, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical or else an Mn+/n group, Mn+ denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn+ preferably denoting a metal cation chosen from Ca2+, Zn2+, Mg2+, Ba2+, Al3+ and Zr4+. It is clearly understood that the compounds of formula (I) above can give rise to the “cis-trans” isomer around one or more double bond(s) and that all the isomers are within the context of the present invention.
Among the hydrophilic organic UVA-screening agents that can be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of compounds comprising at least two benzazolyl groups bearing sulfonic groups, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0669323.
They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in patent U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264 and also in patent application EP-A-0669323.
The compounds comprising at least two benzazolyl groups in accordance with the invention correspond to general formula (II) below:
in which
Among these compounds, preference is given to those for which the group Z is chosen from the group made up of:
(a) an olefin linear aliphatic C2 to C6 hydrocarbon-based radical which may be interrupted with a C5 to C12 aryl group or a C4 to C10 heteroaryl group, in particular chosen from the following groups:
(b) a C5 to C15 aryl group which may be interrupted with an olefin linear aliphatic C2 to C6 hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular chosen from the following groups:
(c) a C3 to C10 heteroaryl residue, in particular chosen from the following groups:
wherein R6 as the same meaning as that indicated above; said Z radicals as defined in paragraphs (a), (b) and (c) possibly being substituted with C1 to C6 alkyl, C1 to C6 alkoxy, phenoxy, hydroxyl, methylenedioxy or amino radicals optionally substituted with one or 2 C1 to C5 alkyl radicals.
Preferably, the compounds of formula (II) comprise, per molecule, 1, 3 or 4 SO3Y groups.
By way of examples of compounds of formula (II) that can be used, mention may be made of the compounds of formulae (a) to (j) having the following structures, and also the salts thereof:
Among all these compounds, preference will most particularly be given to 1,4-bis-benzimidazolylphenylene-3,3′,5,5′-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate) (compound (d)) or a salt thereof, having the following structure, sold in particular under the name Neoheliopan AP® by the company Symrise:
Among the water-soluble organic UVA-screening agents that can be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of benzophenone compounds comprising at least one sulfonic acid function, for instance the following compounds:
Among the water-soluble organic UVA-screening agents, use will more particularly be made of benzene-1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic) acid and the various salts thereof (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) produced by the company Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl SX®.
The water-soluble organic UVB-screening agents that can be used according to the present invention are in particular chosen from water-soluble cinnamic derivatives, such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzylidenecamphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds; water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of water-soluble organic UVB-screening agents, mention may be made of the following compounds denoted under their INCI name:
Use will more particularly be made of the screening agent phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck.
The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more liposoluble organic UV-screening agents, chosen from liposoluble organic UVA-screening agents, liposoluble organic UVB-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
The liposoluble organic UV-screening agents are in particular chosen from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives such as those mentioned in patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,624,663; imidazolines p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives such as those described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93/04665; α-alkylstyrene-based dimers such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981; merocyanine derivatives and merocyanines such as those described in patent U.S. Pat. No. 4,195,999, application WO2004/006878, applications WO2008/090066, WO2011113718 and WO2009027258, and the documents IP COM JOURNAL No 000179675D published on 23 Feb. 2009, IP COM JOURNAL No 000182396D published on 29 Apr. 2009, IP COM JOURNAL N° 000189542D published on 12 Nov. 2009, IP COM Journal NIPCOM000011179D published on Apr. 3, 2004; and mixtures thereof.
As examples of additional organic UV-screening agents, mention may be made of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name:
Preferably, the liposoluble organic screening agent(s) are chosen from butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene, benzophenone-3, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamidotriazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4′-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(diisobutyl 4′-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4′-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4′-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2′-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the liposoluble organic screening agent(s) are chosen from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof.
Among these liposoluble organic UV-screening agents, some of them are liquid at ambient temperature (20-25° C.) under one atmosphere, whereas others are in a solid form (powder or granules) which can be dissolved in an oil.
The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more insoluble organic UV-screening agents, chosen from insoluble organic UVA-screening agents, insoluble organic UVB-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
The insoluble organic UV-screening agents according to the invention preferably have a mean particle size which ranges from 0.01 to 5 μm and more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 μm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm.
The mean particle diameter is measured using a particle size distribution analyser of the Culter N4 PLUS type manufactured by Beckman Coulter Inc.
The insoluble organic screening agents according to the invention can be brought to the desired particulate form by any ad hoc means, such as in particular dry milling or milling in a solvent medium, sieving, atomization, micronization or pulverization.
The insoluble organic screening agents according to the invention in micronized form can in particular be obtained by means of a process of milling an insoluble organic UV-screening agent in the form of particles of coarse size in the presence of an appropriate surfactant making it possible to improve the dispersion of the resulting particles in the cosmetic formulations.
An example of a process for micronization of insoluble organic screening agents is described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119. The milling apparatus used according to these documents may be a jet, ball, vibration or hammer mill and preferably a high speed stirring mill or an impact mill and more particularly a rotating ball mill, a vibrating mill, a tube mill or a rod mill.
According to this particular process, use is made, as surfactants for milling said screening agents, of alkylpolyglucosides having the structure CnH2n+1 O(C6H10O5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the mean degree of polymerization of the unit (C6H10O5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6. They may be chosen from C1-C12 esters of a compound having the structure CnH2n+1 O(C6H10O5)xH and more particularly an ester obtained by reacting a C1-C12 carboxylic acid, such as formic, acetic, propionic, butyric, sulfosuccinic, citric or tartaric acid, with one or more free OH functions on the glucoside unit (C6H10O5). Decylglucoside may in particular be mentioned as alkylpolyglucoside.
Said surfactants are generally used at a concentration ranging from 1% to 50% by weight and more preferentially from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the insoluble screening agent in its micronized form.
The insoluble organic UV-screening agents in accordance with the invention may be chosen in particular from organic UV-screening agents of the oxalanilide type, of the triazine type, of the benzotriazole type; of the vinylamide type; of the cinnamide type; of the type comprising one or more groups which are benzazole and/or benzofuran, benzothiophene or of the indole type; of the aryl vinylene ketone type; of the phenylene bis-benzoxazinone derivative type; of the amide, sulfonamide or acrylonitrile carbamate derivative type, or mixtures thereof.
For the purpose for which it is used in the present invention, the term “benzazole” encompasses at the same time benzothiazoles, benzoxazoles and benzimidazoles.
Among the UV-screening agents of the oxalanilide type in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of those corresponding to formula (III) below:
in which T1, T1, T2 and T′2 denote, identically or differently, a C1 to C8 alkyl radical or a C1 to C8 alkoxy radical. These compounds are described in patent application WO 95/22959.
By way of examples, mention may be made of the commercial products Tinuvin 315® and Tinuvin 312® sold by the company BASF and respectively having the structure:
Among the insoluble UV-screening agents of the triazine type in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of those corresponding to formula (IV) below:
in which T3, T4 and T5, independently, are phenyl, phenoxy or pyrrolo, in which the phenyl, phenoxy and pyrrolo are unsubstituted or substituted with one, two or three substituents chosen from OH, C1-C18 alkyl or C1-C18 alkoxy, C1-C18 carboxyalkyl, C5-C8 cycloalkyl, a methylbenzylidenecamphor group, and a —(CH═CH)n(C0)—OT6 group, with T6 either C1-C18 alkyl or cinnamyl.
These compounds are described in WO 97/03642, GB 2286774, EP-743309, WO 98/22447 and GB 2319523.
Among the UV-screening agents of the triazine type in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of insoluble derivatives of s-triazine bearing benzalmalonate and/or phenyl cyanoacrylate groups, such as those described in application EP-A-0790243 (which is an integral part of the content of the description).
Among these insoluble UV-screening agents of the triazine type, mention will more particularly be made of the following compounds:
Among the UV-screening agents of the triazine type in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of insoluble derivatives of s-triazine bearing benzotriazole and/or benzothiazole groups, such as those described in application WO 98/25922 (which is an integral part of the content of the description).
Among these compounds, mention may more particularly be made of:
Mention may also be made of the symmetrical triazines substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent U.S. Pat. No. 6,225,467, application WO2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives” IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC West Henrietta, N.Y., US (20 Sep. 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(di-phenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)triazine which is reiterated in patent applications WO06/035000, WO06/034982, WO06/034991, WO06/035007, WO2006/034992, and WO2006/034985.
Among the insoluble organic UV-screening agents of the benzotriazole type in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of those of formula (V) below, as described in application WO 95/22959 (which is an integral part of the content of the description):
in which T7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1 to C18 alkyl radical; and T8 and T9, which may be identical or different, denote a C1 to C18 alkyl radical optionally substituted with a phenyl.
By way of example of compounds of formula (V), mention may be made of the commercial products Tinuvin 328, 320, 234 and 350 from the company BASF, having the structure below:
Among the insoluble organic UV-screening agents of the benzotriazole type in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of the compounds as described in patents U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,687,521, 5,373,037 and 5,362,881, and in particular [2,4′-dihydroxy-3-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-5-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-2′-n-octoxy-5′-benzoyl]diphenylmethane sold in particular under the name Mixxim PB30® by the company Fairmount Chemical, having the structure:
Among the insoluble organic UV-screening agents of the benzotriazole type in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of the methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives having the structure below:
in which the T10 and T11 radicals, which may be identical or different, denote a C1 to C18 alkyl radical which may be substituted with one or more radicals chosen from a C1 to C4 alkyl radical, a C5 to C12 cycloalkyl radical or an aryl residue. These compounds are known per se and described in applications 5 U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071, 5,166,355, GB-A-2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP-A-893 119 (which are an integral part of the description).
In formula (VI) defined above: the C1 to C18 alkyl groups may be linear or branched and are for example methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, tert-octyl, n-amyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, isooctyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, tetradecyl, hexadecyl or octadecyl; the C5 à C12 cycloalkyl groups are for example cyclopentyl, cyclohexyle or cyclooctyl; the aryl groups are for example phenyl or benzyl.
Among the compounds of formula (VI), mention may be made of those having the structure below:
The compound (a) of nomenclature 2,2′-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] is in particular sold under the trade name Mixxim BB/200® by the company Fairmount Chemical.
The compound (c) of nomenclature 2,2′-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(methyl)phenol] is in particular sold in solid form under the trade name Mixxim BB/200® by the company Fairmount Chemical.
Among the insoluble organic screening agents of the vinylamide type, mention may be made for example of the compounds having the formula below which are described in application WO 95/22959 (which is an integral part of the content of the description):
T12-(Y)r—C(═O)—C(T13)=C(T14)—N(T15)(T16) (VII)
in which T12 is a C1 to C18, preferably C1 to C5, alkyl radical or a phenyl group which is optionally substituted with one, two or three radicals chosen from OH, C1 to C18 alkyl, C1 to C8 alkoxy, or a —C(═O)—OT17 group where T17 is a C1 to C18 alkyl; T13, T14, T15 and T16, which may be identical or different, denote a C1 to C18, preferably C1 to C5, alkyl radical or a hydrogen atom; Y is N or O and r is 0 or 1.
Among these compounds, mention will more particularly be made of 4-octylamino-3-penten-2-one; ethyl-3-octylamino-2-butenoate; 3-octylamino-1-phenyl-2-buten-1-one and 3-dodecylamino-1-phenyl-2-buten-1-one.
Among the insoluble organic screening agents of the cinnamamide type in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of the compounds as described in application WO 95/22959 (which is an integral part of the content of the description) and which correspond to the structure below:
in which OT18 is a hydroxyl or C1 to C4 alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy or ethoxy; T19 is hydrogen or C1 to C4 alkyl, preferably methyl or ethyl; T20 is a —(CONH)s-phenyl group where s is 0 or 1 and the phenyl group may be substituted with one, two or three groups chosen from OH, C1 to C18 alkyl, C1 to C8 alkoxy, or a —C(═O)—OT21 group where T21 is a C1 to C18 alkyl and more preferentially T21 is a phenyl, 4-methoxyphenyl or phenylaminocarbonyl group.
Mention may also be made of cinnamamide dimers such as those described in patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,888,481, for instance the compound having the structure:
Among the insoluble organic screening agents of the benzazole type, mention may be made of those corresponding to one of the formulae below:
in which
in which each of the symbols R3 independently represents a halogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C4 alkyl or alkoxy group or a hydroxyl group, and R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C4 alkyl group, c=0-4, d=0-3, e=0 or 1, and f=0-2.
These compounds are in particular described in patents DE 676 103 and CH 350 763, patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,501,850, patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,961,960, patent application EP0669323, patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,518,713, patent U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264, the article in J. Am. Chem. Soc., 79, 5706-5708, 1957, the article in J. Am. Chem. Soc., 82, 609-5 611, 1960, patent application EP0921126, and patent application EP712855.
By way of examples of preferred compounds of formula (IX) of the 2-arylbenzazole family, mention may be made of 2-benzoxazol-2-yl-4-methylphenol, 2-(1H-benzimidazol-2-yl)-4-methoxyphenol or 2-benzothiazol-2-ylphenol, these compounds possibly being prepared for example according to the processes described in patent CH 350 763.
By way of examples of preferred compounds of formula (IX) of the benzimidazolylbenzazole family, mention will be made of 2,2′-bis-benzimidazole, 5,5′,6,6′-tetramethyl-2,2′-bis-benzimidazole, 5,5′-dimethyl-2,2′-bis-benzimidazole, 6-methoxy-2,2′-bis-benzimidazole, 2-(1H-benzimidazol-2-yl)benzothiazole, 2-(1H-benzimidazol-2-yl)benzoxazole and N,N′-dimethyl-2,2′-bis-benzimidazole, these compounds possibly being prepared according to the procedures described in patents U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,961,960 and 2,463,264.
By way of examples of preferred compounds of formula (IX) of the phenylenebenzazole family, mention will be made of 1,4-phenylene-bis-(2-benzoxazolyl), 1,4-phenylene-bis-(2-benzimidazolyl), 1,3-phenylene-bis-(2-benzoxazolyl), 1,2-phenylene-bis-(2-benzoxazolyl), 1,2-phenylene-bis-(benzimidazolyl), 1,4-phenylene-bis-(N-2-ethylhexyl-2-benzimidazolyl) and 1,4-phenylene-bis-(N-trimethylsilylmethyl-2-benzimidazolyl), these compounds possibly being prepared according to the procedures described in patent U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264 and in the publications J. Am. Chem. Soc., 82, 609 (1960) and J. Am. Chem. Soc., 79, 5706-5708 (1957).
By way of examples of preferred compounds of formula (IX) of the benzofuranylbenzoxazole family, mention will be made of 2-(2-benzo furanyl)benzoxazole, 2-(benzo furanyl)-5-methylbenzoxazole and 2-(3-methyl-2-benzofuranyl)benzoxazole, these compounds possibly being prepared according to the procedures described in patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,518,713.
As preferred compounds of formula (X), mention may for example be made of 2,6-diphenyl-1,7-dihydrobenzo[1,2-d;4,5-d′]diimidazole corresponding to the formula:
or 2,6-distyryl-1,7-dihydrobenzo[1,2-d; 4,5-d′]diimidazole or else 2,6-di(p-tert-butylstyryl)-1,7-dihydrobenzo[1,2-d; 4,5-d′]diimidazole, which can be prepared according to application EP 0 669 323.
As preferred compound of formula (XI), mention may be made of 5,5′-bis-[(phenyl-2)-benzimidazole] having the formula:
the preparation of which is described in J. Chim. Phys., 64, 1602 (1967).
Among these insoluble organic compounds which screen out UV radiation, preference is given most particularly to 2-(1H-benzimidazol-2-yl)benzoxazole, 6-methoxy-2,2′-bis-benzimidazole, 2-(1H-benzimidazol-2-yl)benzothiazole, 1,4-phenylenebis-(2-benzoxazolyl), 1,4-phenylene-bis-(2-benzimidazolyl), 1,3-phenylenebis-(2-benzoxazolyl), 1,2-phenylene-bis-(2-benzoxazolyl), 1,2-phenylenebis-(2-benzimidazolyl) and 1,4-phenylene-bis-(N-trimethylsilylmethyl-2-benzimidazolyl).
Among the insoluble organic screening agents of the aryl vinylene ketone type, mention may be made of those corresponding to one of formulae (XII) and (XIII) below:
in which
in which each of the symbols R8 independently represents an OH group, a halogen atom, a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl group, optionally containing a silicon atom, a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkoxy group, optionally containing a silicon atom, a linear or branched C1 to C5 alkoxycarbonyl group, or a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkylsulfonamide group, optionally containing a silicon atom or an amino acid function,
By way of examples of insoluble compounds of formula (XII), in which n′=1, which screen out UV radiation and which have a mean particle size of between 10 nm and 5 nm, mention may be made of the following families:
By way of examples of insoluble compounds of formula (X), in which n′=2, which screen out UV radiation and which have a mean particle size of between 10 nm and 5 μm, mention may be made of the following families:
or 1,3-phenylene-bis-{3-methylidene-1,7,7-trimethylbicyclo [2.2.1]heptan-2-one}:
By way of compounds of formula (XIII), mention may be made of the following families:
Among these insoluble organic compounds which filter out UV radiation, of the aryl vinyl ketone type, preference is given most particularly to the compounds of formula (XII) in which n′=2.
Among the insoluble organic screening agents of the phenylene bis-benzoxazinone type, mention may be made of those corresponding to formula (XIV) below:
with R representing a divalent aromatic residue chosen from the formulae (e) to (h) below:
in which
By way of examples of insoluble compounds of formula (XIV), which screen out UV radiation and which have a mean particle size of between 10 nm and 5 μm, mention may be made of the following derivatives:
Among the insoluble organic screening agents of the amide, sulfonamide or acrylonitrile carbamate derivative type, mention may be made of those corresponding to formula (XV) below:
in which
Although, in formula (XV) above, only the isomers in which the cyano substituent is in the cis position relative to the para-aminophenyl substituent are represented, this formula should be understood as also encompassing the corresponding trans isomers; for each of the two double bonds and independently, the cyano and para-aminophenyl substituents may be in the cis or trans configuration relative to one another.
By way of example, mention may be made of the dimer of 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-[4-(acetylamino)phenyl]acrylate of formula:
Another particular family of insoluble organic screening agents in accordance with the invention are the salts of polyvalent metals (for example Ca′, Zn2+, Mg2+, Ba2+, Al3+ or Zr4+) of sulfonic or carboxylic organic screening agents such as the polyvalent metal salts of sulfonated derivatives of benzylidenecamphor, such as those described in application FR-A 2 639 347; the polyvalent metal salts of sulfonated derivatives of benzimidazole, such as those described in application EP-A-893119; the polyvalent metal salts of cinnamic acid derivatives, such as those described in application JP-87 166 517.
Mention may also be made of the metal, ammonium or substituted-ammonium complexes of UVA and/or UVB organic screening agents as described in patent applications WO93/10753, WO93/11095 and WO95/05150.
Among the insoluble organic UV-screening agents, mention may also be made of the compound 1,1′-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) having the following structure:
as described in patent application WO 2007/071 584; this compound advantageously being used in micronized form (mean size of 0.02 to 2 μm), which may be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in patent applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion.
According to one particularly preferred form of the invention, use will be made of the insoluble organic UV-screening agents chosen from:
(i) symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent U.S. Pat. No. 6,225,467, patent application WO 2004/085 412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives”, IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC West Henrietta, N.Y., US (20 Sep. 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(diphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine, which is also mentioned in patent applications WO 06/035 000, WO 06/034 982, WO 06/034 991, WO 06/035 007, WO 2006/034 992 and WO 2006/034 985, these compounds advantageously being used in micronized form (mean particle size of 0.02 to 3 μm), which may be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in patent applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form;
(ii) the methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds of formula (XVI) below:
in which the T10 and T11 radicals, which may be identical or different, denote a C1 to C18 alkyl radical which may be substituted with one or more radicals chosen from a C1 to C4 alkyl radical, a C5 to C12 cycloalkyl radical or an aryl residue;
iii) and mixtures thereof.
According to one particularly preferred form of the invention, the methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds of formula (XVI) are in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles having a mean particle size which ranges from 0.01 to 5 μm and more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 μm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm with at least one surfactant of structure CnH2n+1 O(C6H10O5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the mean degree of polymerization of the unit (C6H10O5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6. Said surfactant is preferably used at a concentration ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, and more preferentially from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the benzotriazole screening agent, and the amount of benzotriazole screening agent of formula (I) in the aqueous dispersion preferably ranges from 10% to 50% by weight, and more preferentially from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
The mean particle diameter is measured using a particle size distribution analyser of the Coulter N4 PLUS® type manufactured by Beckman Coulter Inc.
According to one particularly preferred form of the invention, the methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds of formula (XVI) may be in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles having a mean particle size which ranges from 0.02 to 2 μm and more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 μm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm in the presence of at least one mono-(C8-C20) alkyl ester of poly glycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009/063392.
As an example of surfactants which are mono-(C8-C20)alkyl esters of polyglycerol, mention may be made of decaglyceryl caprate, decaglyceryl laurate, decaglyceryl myristate, decaglyceryl oleate, decaglyceryl stearate, decaglyceryl isostearate, hexaglyceryl caprate, hexaglyceryl laurate, hexaglyceryl myristate, hexaglyceryl oleate, hexaglyceryl stearate, hexaglyceryl isostearate, pentaglyceryl caprate, pentaglyceryl laurate, pentaglyceryl myristate, pentaglyceryl oleate, pentaglyceryl stearate, and pentaglyceryl isostearate.
Use will more particularly be made of:
Among these surfactants, those having an HLB greater than or equal to 14.5, and more preferentially greater than or equal to 15, are preferably used. As examples of surfactants which are mono-(C8-C20)alkyl esters of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 and having an HLB greater than or equal to 14.5, mention may be made of decaglyceryl caprate, decaglyceryl laurate, decaglyceryl myristate, decaglyceryl oleate, decaglyceryl stearate, decaglyceryl isostearate, hexaglyceryl laurate, pentaglyceryl caprate, pentaglyceryl laurate, pentaglyceryl myristate, pentaglyceryl oleate, and pentaglyceryl stearate. As examples of surfactants which are mono-(C8-C20)alkyl esters of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 and having an HLB greater than or equal to 15, mention may be made of decaglyceryl caprate and decaglyceryl laurate.
The amount of methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compound of formula (XVI) in the aqueous dispersion preferably ranges from 10% to 50% by weight, and more preferentially from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
Preferentially, the weight ratio between the amount of the methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compound and the amount of the mono-(C8-C20)alkyl ester of polyglycerol ranges from 0.05 to 0.5, and preferentially from 0.1 to 0.3.
In these aqueous dispersions, use will preferentially be made, as methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compound of formula (XVI), of the compound 2,2′-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] having the structure:
such as the commercial product sold under the name Tinosorb M® by BASF which is an aqueous dispersion comprising decylglucoside, xanthan gum and propylene glycol (INCI name: Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Aqua (and) Decyl Glucoside (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum).
Preferably, the insoluble organic UV-screening agent is methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol.
The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more inorganic UV-screening agents, chosen from inorganic UVA-screening agents, inorganic UVB-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
The inorganic UV-screening agents used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV-screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles with an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferentially between 0.005 and 0.5 μm, even more preferentially between 0.01 and 0.2 μm, better still between 0.01 and 0.1 μm and more particularly preferentially between 0.015 and 0.05 μm.
According to the present invention, the term “elementary mean size” is intended to mean the size of non-aggregated particles.
They may be chosen in particular from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, and mixtures thereof.
Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. Commercial pigments that may be mentioned include in particular the products sold by the companies Sachtleben Pigments, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.
The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
The coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated:
Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric/caprylic acids.
The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may also comprise one or more dispersants, for instance a sorbitan ester, for instance sorbitan isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, for instance TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol. Mention may more particularly be made of the oily dispersion of TiO2 particles doped with manganese in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3-polyricinoleate and of sorbitan isostearate (INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) tri-PPG-3 myristylether citrate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate), such as the product sold in particular under the trade name Optisol TD50 by the company Croda.
The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B, by the company Degussa under the name P 25, by the company Wackher under the name Transparent titanium oxide PW, by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR, by the company Tomen under the name ITS and by the company Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.
The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are for example:
The coated zinc oxide pigments are for example:
The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may, for example, be those sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide by the company Rhone-Poulenc.
The uncoated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ and Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R) or by the company Mitsubishi under the name TY-220.
The coated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN), Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556), Nanogard FE 45 BL 345 and Nanogard FE 45 BL or by the company BASF under the name Transparent Iron Oxide.
Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by the company Ikeda under the name Sunveil A, and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product M 261 sold by the company Sachtleben Pigments, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such as the product M 211 sold by the company Sachtleben Pigments.
According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more liposoluble organic UV-screening agents, more preferentially chosen from dibenzoylmethane compounds, salicylic compounds, β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds, benzophenone compounds, phenyl benzotriazole compounds, triazine compounds and mixtures thereof, and even better still from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone and mixtures thereof.
The amount of UV-screening agent(s) present in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It preferably ranges from 10% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 20% to 50% by weight and better still ranges from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of UV-screening agent(s) present in the oily phase according to the invention may range from 50% to 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase. It preferably ranges from 70% to 99% by weight, more preferentially from 80% to 98% by weight and even better still from 90% to 97% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
Anionic Crosslinked Hydrophilic Polymers
The composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymers.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic polymer” is intended to mean a polymer which, when introduced into water at a concentration equal to 1% by weight, at 25° C., gives a macroscopically homogeneous solution of which light transmittance, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, is at least 10%, which corresponds to an absorbance [abs=−log(transmittance)] of less than 1.5.
The anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymer(s) according to the invention do not generally contain monomers comprising fatty chains, i.e. they do not comprise a repeat unit having a CnH2n+1 alkyl group wherein the integer n is greater than or equal to 6, preferably greater than or equal to 7.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “crosslinked” is intended to mean a polymer in which the monomer has been polymerized with an olefinically polyunsaturated monomer commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
As crosslinking agents, mention may be particularly made of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allylic ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also the allylic esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA), and mixtures thereof. The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol % to 10 mol % and more particularly from 0.2 mol % to 2 mol % relative to the polymer.
The anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymer(s) used in the composition of the present invention can advantageously be chosen from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homo- and copolymers, homo- and copolymers of at least one α,β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, and mixtures thereof. These polymers can optionally be totally or partially neutralized.
The anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymers used in the composition of the present invention can thus be crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer, in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
They are preferably totally or almost totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.
The AMPS® polymers that are suitable for use in the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are:
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty chain” is intended to mean a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.
The crosslinked hydrophilic AMPS® copolymers according to the present invention contain one or more co-monomers which may be chosen in particular from water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers, and mixtures thereof.
The water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or non-ionic.
Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds, and salts thereof:
in which
Among the non-ionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include:
in which
Mention is made, for example, of glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and (meth)acrylates of ethylene glycol, of diethylene glycol or of polyalkylene glycol.
Among the hydrophobic co-monomers without a fatty chain, mention may be made, for example, of:
in which
R4 is chosen from H, —CH3, —C2H5 and —C3H7;
X3 is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type —OR5 where R5 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
Mention is made, for example, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and isobutyl (meth)acrylate.
The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 10 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 8 000 000 g/mol, and even more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 7 000 000 g/mol.
As crosslinked hydrophilic homopolymers in accordance with the present invention, mention may for example be made of:
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate 60), or such as the product sold under the name Sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate/Hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer).
As preferred crosslinked hydrophilic AMPS® copolymers in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made of copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.
The anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymers may also be homopolymers or copolymers of at least one α,β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer. They may in particular be chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from α,β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or esters thereof, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b).
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “copolymers” is intended to mean both copolymers obtained from two sorts of monomers and those obtained from more than two sorts of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three sorts of monomers.
Preferably, these copolymers are chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization:
in which R1 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid monomers.
Among the polymers containing at least one carboxylic acid monomer, mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP®, or Cosmedia SPL® as an inverse emulsion containing about 60% solids, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis.
Mention may also be made of partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates that are in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example the product sold under the name Luvigel® EM by the company BASF.
These polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers.
Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, or by 3V-Sigma under the name Synthalen® K, Synthalen® L or Synthalen® M.
Preferably, the anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymer(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from polymers comprising at least one α,β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, more preferentially from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, and even better still from Carbopol 980 (CTFA name: carbomer), Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, and mixtures thereof.
The amount of the anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymer(s) present in the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.08% to 2.5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Surfactants
The composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more surfactants having an HLB less than or equal to 5.
The term “HLB” is well known to those skilled in the art, and denotes the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant at 25° C. in the Griffin sense.
The term “hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB)” is intended to mean the equilibrium between the size and the strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and the strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.
The surfactant(s) having an HLB less than or equal to 5 may be ionic or non-ionic. Use may in particular be made of the surfactants having an HLB less than or equal to 5 which are mentioned in the reference handbook McCutcheons Emulsifiers & Dertergents, international edition from 1998 et seq.
Reference may also be made to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for non-ionic surfactants.
Preferably, the surfactants of the invention have an HLB less than or equal to 4.
More particularly, the surfactants suitable for the present invention are non-ionic.
The non-ionic surfactants having an HLB less than or equal to 5 may in particular be chosen from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols; alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide); polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan; non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan; alkyl- and polyalkylglycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkylglucosides or polyglucosides; alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose; polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol; polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol; and mixtures thereof, these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 14 to 24 carbon atoms.
They may be chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty α-diols and (C1-20)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 10, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 2 to 6; these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 14 to 24 carbon atoms.
Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils.
Alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) that are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 10, and more preferentially from 2 to 6. Mention may, for example, be made of stearate 2 EO, diethylene glycol monostearate, and polyoxyethylenated monostearate comprising 5 EO.
As oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated alcohols, use is made of those preferably having from 1 to 10 and more preferentially from 2 to 5 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular ethoxylated C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18 fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name: Steareth-2) such as Brij 72 sold by the company Uniqema. Mention may also be made of cetyl ether 2 EO, phytosterol 2 EO, steareth 4, beheneth 2 and oleth-2.
As non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, use is preferably made of sorbitan monostearate and sorbitan tristearate.
Polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan that are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 10 and more preferentially from 0 to 5.
Alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides that are preferably used include those containing an alkyl group comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5 and in particular 1, 2 or 3 glucoside units. Among the alkylpolyglucosides that can be used, mention may be made in particular of arachidylglucoside.
Examples of alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose that may be mentioned are Crodesta F150, sucrose monolaurate sold under the name Crodesta SL 40, and the products sold by Ryoto Sugar Ester, for instance sucrose palmitate sold under the reference Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA1695 or Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570 or sucrose distearate.
Polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol that are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 10 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 8. More preferentially, the alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol are non-polyoxyethylenated.
Mention may, for example, be made of glyceryl monooleate, hexaglyceryl mono laurate, diglyceryl distearate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, tetraglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl decastearate, diglyceryl monostearate, hexaglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl pentastearate, glyceryl monobehenate, glyceryl dibehenate and the ester of glycerol and of palmitic and stearic acids.
Polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol that are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 10 and more preferentially from 0 to 5, and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 10.
Preferably, the surfactant(s) having an HLB less than or equal to 5 present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from steareth-2, beheneth-2, oleth-2, sucrose distearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, diglyceryl distearate, tetraglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl decastearate, diglyceryl monostearate, hexaglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl pentastearate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate, diethylene glycol monostearate, the ester of glycerol and of palmitic and stearic acids, glyceryl monobehenate, glyceryl dibehenate, and mixtures thereof; and more preferentially glyceryl monooleate.
The amount of the surfactant(s) having an HLB less than or equal to 5 present in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Silicone Copolymers
The composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more silicone copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of at least one monomer of the type of an ester of a carboxylic acid and of an alcohol comprising a C6 to C30 fatty chain, with at least one monomer containing a polyalkylsiloxane chain.
Among the monomers of the type ester of carboxylic acid and of alcohol comprising a fatty chain, that can be used according to the present invention, mention may in particular be made of C6 to C30, preferably C7 to C24, fatty-chain alkyl acrylates, methacrylates, maleates, fumarates, itaconates and crotonates, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the monomer(s) of the type ester of carboxylic acid and of alcohol comprising a C6 to C30 fatty chain are chosen from esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of alcohol comprising a C6 to C30, preferably C7 to C24, fatty chain.
In other words, the monomer(s) of the type ester of a carboxylic acid and of alkyl comprising a C6 to C30 fatty chain are preferentially chosen from the compounds of structure (XVII) and mixtures thereof
in which
R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl, and
R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30, preferably C7 to C24, alkyl chain.
R2 advantageously represents a branched, saturated or unsaturated C7 to C24 alkyl chain.
According to a first particularly preferred embodiment, R1 represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a branched, saturated or unsaturated C7 to C12 alkyl chain, more preferentially a 2-ethylhexyl group.
According to a second particularly preferred embodiment, R1 represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated C14 to C20 alkyl chain, more preferentially a stearyl group.
Preferably, the monomer(s) containing a polyalkylsiloxane chain are chosen from monomers of the type (meth)acrylic acid esterified with a silicone group of structure (XVIII)
in which
R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl, and
R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8, which may be identical or different, represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C30 alkyl chain, n and m represent, independently of each other, an integer greater than or equal to 1.
Preferably, R3 represents a methyl.
Preferably, R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8, which may be identical or different, represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C24, and more preferentially C1 to C12, alkyl chain.
According to one particularly preferred embodiment, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8 represent a methyl.
The silicone copolymer(s) according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more additional monomers, and in particular one or more monomers which are an ester of a carboxylic acid and of an alcohol of C1 to C5. Preferably, the additional monomer(s) are chosen from esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C1 to C4 alcohol and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from methyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, butyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, ethyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the silicone copolymer(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of at least one monomer of structure (XVII) in which R1 represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a branched, saturated or unsaturated, C7 to C24 alkyl chain, with at least one monomer of structure (XVIII) in which R3, R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8 all represent a methyl group, n is an integer between 1 and 6, and m represents an integer greater than or equal to 1; and mixtures thereof.
The silicone copolymer(s) are generally obtained according to the usual methods of polymerization and grafting, for example by radical polymerization of at least one monomer of polydimethylsiloxane type comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (polymerizable for example on one of the ends of the chain or at both ends), as previously described, and of at least one monomer of the type ester of carboxylic acid and of alkyl comprising a C7 to C30 fatty chain, as described, for example, in documents U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,061,481 and 5,219,560.
The silicone copolymer(s) obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from about 3000 to 200 000 and preferably from about 5000 to 100 000.
The silicone copolymer(s) used in the composition according to the present invention may be in their native form or in a form dispersed in a solvent such as lower alcohols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, for instance isopropyl alcohol, or oils, for instance silicone oils, preferably volatile silicone oils, such as cyclopentasiloxane or a dimethicone, or else hydrocarbon-based oils, such as liquid paraffins or liquid isoparaffins, such as isododecane.
Preferably, the solvent is chosen from oils, and more preferentially from cyclopentasiloxane, linear pentadimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
The silicone copolymer(s) that can be used in the composition according to the present invention are preferentially chosen from copolymers of stearyl methacrylate/methyl methacrylate/propyl methacrylate containing a polydimethylsiloxane chain; copolymers of methyl methacrylate/butyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate/propyl methacrylate containing a polydimethylsiloxane chain; and mixtures thereof.
In particular, mention may be made of the acrylate/dimethicone copolymers (INCI name) sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the trade names KP-561 in which the copolymer of stearyl methacrylate, of methyl methacrylate, and of propyl methacrylate comprising a polydimethylsiloxane group); KP-541 in which the copolymer is dispersed in isopropyl alcohol; KP-545 in which the copolymer of methyl methacrylate, of butyl methacrylate, of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and of propyl methacrylate comprising a polydimethylsiloxane group is dispersed in decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; KP-545L in which the copolymer of methyl methacrylate, of butyl methacrylate, of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and of propyl methacrylate comprising a polydimethylsiloxane group is dispersed in linear pentadimethylsiloxane; and KP-550 in which the copolymer of methyl methacrylate, of butyl methacrylate, of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and of propyl methacrylate comprising a polydimethylsiloxane group is dispersed in isododecane.
Preferably, the silicone copolymer(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from the products sold under the trade names KP-545 and KP-545L by the company Shin-Etsu.
The amount of the silicone copolymer(s) present in the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 8% by weight, and even better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the weight ratio between the amount of silicone copolymer(s) and the amount of anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymer(s) present in the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 5, preferably less than or equal to 4.5, and more preferentially ranges from 1 to 4.5.
Efficiency Boosters
The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more efficiency boosters.
For the purposes of the present application, the term “efficiency booster” is intended to mean a raw material which does not itself screen out UV radiation, but which makes it possible to amplify the screening performance of the composition of the invention.
By way of examples of efficiency boosters, mention may be made of particles of copolymer of styrene and of acrylates, such as those sold under the name Sunspheres Powder by Dow Chemicals; waxes such as polymethylene wax (Cirebelle 303 sold by Cirebelle); gelling lipophilic polymers such as the semicrystalline polyacrylates sold under the names Interlimer IPA 13-1, Interlimer IPA 13-6 or Uniclear 100 VG; and mixtures thereof.
According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more particles of copolymer of styrene and of acrylates, sold under the name Sunspheres Powder by Dow Chemicals.
Insoluble Particles
The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more insoluble particles, not having any UV-screening property or efficiency booster property.
For the purposes of the present application, the term “insoluble particle” is intended to mean a particle having a solubility in water of less than 0.1% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.1% by weight in the majority of organic solvents such as liquid paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® sold by the company Dynamit Nobel. This solubility, determined at 25° C., is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension.
These particles make it possible to obtain excellent sensory or optical properties after application of the composition to the skin.
These particles may be chosen from nylon, such as Orgasol 2002 sold by Arkema; polymethylsilsesquioxane, for example the methylsilsesquioxane resin microbeads sold under the name Tospearl 145A by the company Momentive Performance Materials; poly(methyl methacrylate), for instance the hollow PMMA spheres sold under the name Covabeads LH 85 by the company Sensient; starches such as corn starch; talc; silica; crosslinked polyacrylate microspheres such as Aquakeep 10 SH-NFC sold by the company Sumitomo Seika; perlite such as Optimat 2550 OR sold by the company World Minerals; iron oxide pigments or titanium oxide pigments and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises nylon particles, such as Orgasol 2002.
Additives
The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and normally used in cosmetics, and particularly in the field of anti-sun products, care products and makeup products.
The aqueous phase may optionally comprise surfactants different from the surfactants having an HLB less than or equal to 5, such as those mentioned above; alcohols such as ethanol; glycols, such as dipropylene glycol and butylene glycol; glycerol; active agents; salts; organic particles; amphiphilic polymers, such as the Pemulens TR1 or TR2 or Carbopol ETD2020, sold by the company Lubrizol; hydrophilic polymers, such as poly(N-vinylpyrrolidone); polysaccharides, for instance guar gums, xanthan gums and cellulose-based derivatives; water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives, for instance acrylic silicones, polyether silicones and cationic silicones; and mixtures thereof.
As active agents, mention may in particular be made of vitamins (A, C, E, K, PP, etc), alone or as a mixture, and also derivatives thereof; keratolytic and/or desquamating agents (salicylic acid and derivatives thereof, alpha-hydroxy acids, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof); anti-inflammatories; calmatives; depigmenting agents; tensioning agents such as synthetic polymers; plant proteins; polysaccharides of plant origin optionally in the form of microgels; wax dispersions; mixed silicates and colloidal particles of inorganic fillers; matting agents; agents for preventing hair loss and/or hair restorers; or anti-wrinkle agents; and mixtures thereof.
The oily phase may optionally also comprise lipophilic gelling agents; surfactants different from the surfactants having an HLB less than or equal to 5, such as those mentioned above; waxes; organic or mineral particles; oils of alkane, silicone and fluoro type; and mixtures thereof.
Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
The above adjuvants may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The Emulsion
The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (also known as direct emulsion, or abbreviated to O/W emulsion), containing droplets of oil dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase.
As indicated previously, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one continuous aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.
An aqueous phase that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents that are suitable for use in the invention comprise short-chain monoalcohols, for example C2-C4 monoalcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, use may more particularly be made of ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof.
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least water in a total quantity greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
In particular, the water may be present in a quantity ranging from 30 to 99% by weight, preferably from 50 to 99% by weight, and better still from 60 to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
The water may be present in a total quantity greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 45% by weight, and preferentially ranges from 45% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oily phase dispersed in the aqueous phase.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “oily phase” is intended to mean a phase comprising at least one oil and all of the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and the fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.
The term “oil” is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. (1.013×105 Pa).
The term “fatty substance” is intended to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ambient temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
The oils suitable for the invention may be volatile or non-volatile.
The oils suitable for the invention may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils and fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.
A hydrocarbon-based oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be an animal hydrocarbon-based oil, a plant hydrocarbon-based oil, a mineral hydrocarbon-based oil or a synthetic hydrocarbon-based oil.
An oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be advantageously chosen from mineral hydrocarbon-based oils, plant hydrocarbon-based oils, synthetic hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si—O group.
The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” is intended to mean an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.
The term “fluoro oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
A hydrocarbon-based oil that is suitable for use in the invention may also optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl, amine, amide, ester, ether or acid groups, and in particular in the form of hydroxyl, ester, ether or acid groups.
The oily phase may comprise one or more volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and/or one or more volatile and/or non-volatile silicone oils.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” is intended to mean an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at ambient temperature with a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10−3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
The term “non-volatile oil” is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that in particular has a vapour pressure of less than 10−3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of glyceride triesters and in particular caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, fatty amides such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® from Ajinomoto, synthetic esters, and in particular isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenylbenzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by the company ISP, and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol.
As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and in particular of branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
Among the non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
Among the volatile silicone oils, mention may for example be made of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity at 25° C. of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (8×10−6 m2/s) and in particular containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyl-trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyl-trisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
Among the volatile fluoro oils, mention may be made of nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane and dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.
An oily phase according to the invention may also comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in the oil.
Another fatty substance that may be present in the oily phase may be, for example:
Preferably, the oil(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from silicon oils, and more preferentially from cyclopentasiloxane, linear pentadimethylsiloxane and mixtures thereof.
The amount of aqueous phase preferably ranges from 50% to 95% by weight, more preferentially from 50% to 90% by weight, better still from 50% to 80% by weight and even more preferentially from 55% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of oily phase preferably ranges from 5% to 50% by weight and more preferentially from 10% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The numerical mean size of the droplets of oil, present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.4 to 20 microns and more preferentially from 5 to 15 microns.
This numerical mean size can be measured using a particle size analyser.
The emulsifying processes that can be used to prepare the compositions according to the invention may, for example, be of paddle or propeller and rotor-stator type.
A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic method for treating the skin, in particular human skin, against UV radiation, consisting in applying to the skin the composition according to the invention.
Preferably, the UV radiation corresponds to solar radiation.
More particularly, a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic method for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the colour and/or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the skin, of at least one composition as defined above.
A subject of the invention is also a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and/or treating the signs of skin ageing, comprising the application to the surface of the skin of at least one composition as defined above.
A subject of the present invention is also a composition as defined above, for its use in treating the skin against UV radiation, in particular against solar radiation.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
In the examples that follow, all the amounts are given as weight percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.
1) Preparation of the Compositions
The composition (A1) according to the present invention, and the comparative compositions (B1), (B2) and (B3) which follow were prepared from ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below.
(a) 1.2
(a) 1.2
(a) 1.2
(b) 1.8
(b) 1.8
(b) 1.8
(*)mixture of Carbopol Ultrez 10 and Carbopol 980 according to the ratio 2/1
(**) KP-545L sold by the company Shin-Etsu
2) Procedure
For each of the compositions above, the aqueous phase is prepared by mixing, with mechanical stirring at 65° C., the following ingredients: phenoxyethanol, disodium EDTA, styrene/acrylate copolymer, propanediol and water.
The carbomer and the crosslinked polymer of C10-30 alkyl acrylate are then added and dispersed with mechanical stirring.
The triethanolamine is then added.
In parallel, the oily phase is prepared by mixing, with mechanical stirring at 80° C., the UV-screening agents with glyceryl monooleate or polysorbate 20.
The aqueous and oily phases thus obtained are macroscopically homogeneous.
The composition (A1), according to the invention, and the comparative compositions (B1), (B2) and (B3) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion are prepared by slow introduction of the fatty phase into the aqueous phase with stirring using a homogenizer of COS 1000 type with a stirring speed of 4000 rpm for 15 minutes. The mixture of the acrylate/dimethicone copolymer and linear pentadimethylsiloxane is then introduced with stirring into the emulsion.
The emulsion thus obtained is cooled with stirring to 40° C., before the addition of the nylon 12 and of the ethanol with gentle stirring.
The emulsions are then cooled to ambient temperature with slow stirring.
They are characterized by oil drops having a size ranging from 500 nanometres to 10 μm. The size of the oil drops was measured by optical microscopy in white light.
The level of anti-sun protection, and also the quality of application to wet skin, of each of the compositions (A1), (B1), (B2) and (B3) were evaluated according to the following methods.
a. Level of Anti-Sun Protection
The level of anti-sun protection is defined by the sun protection factor (SPF) which is determined according to the “in vitro” method described by B. L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989).
Each composition was applied to a rough plate of PMMA, in the form of a uniform and even deposit in a proportion of 1 mg·cm−2.
The sun protection factors (SPFs) were measured using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphere.
b. Quality of Application to Wet Skin
Each of the compositions obtained above was applied to a substrate, which is a skin substitute.
The skin substitute is an elastomer composed of several layers, an internal layer of silicone and an external layer of polyurethane.
The skin substitute was immersed beforehand in a bath of demineralized water at 28° C. for 5 minutes, before the application of the compositions (A1), (B1), (B2) and (B3). Each of the compositions was applied using a micro pipette in a proportion of 2 mg·cm−2 before being distributed very rapidly and uniformly with a fingerstall.
The obtaining of a uniform film was evaluated with the naked eye.
Moreover, the transparency on the substrate was evaluated by means of a colorimetric measurement of the parameter ΔL (Delta L, difference in luminance between a zone with formula and a zone without formula) using a spectrocolorimeter (CM 2600d from the company Konica Minolta). When the composition is compatible with wet skin, the parameter ΔL is less than 0.6.
In parallel, the compatibility of the compositions with dry skin was evaluated on a dry substrate. The compositions (A1), (B1), (B2) and (B3) were applied using a micro pipette in a proportion of 2 mg·cm−2. They were then distributed very rapidly and uniformly with a fingerstall. After one minute of drying, the parameter ΔL was measured using a spectrocolorimeter (CM 2600d from the company Konica Minolta).
3) Results
The results are given in the table below.
The results obtained above show that only the composition (A1) prepared according to the present invention, i.e. comprising an anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymer, a surfactant having an HLB less than or equal to 5, and a silicone copolymer as claimed, has good UV-screening properties and excellent compatibility with wet skin. Indeed, the deposit is uniform and transparent and the colorimetric parameter ΔL is less than 0.6 (0.31). Moreover, the sun protection factor (SPF) is greater than 130 (156).
The composition (A1) is also stable over time and has good photoprotective properties with an in vivo SPF level evaluated at 50.
Conversely, for the comparative compositions (B1), (B2) and (B3) which do not comprise the combination of the invention, the performance levels in terms of screening efficiency and/or of compatibility with wet skin are inferior to those obtained with the composition of the invention (A1).
1) Preparation of the Compositions
The following compositions (A1), (A2) and (A3) were prepared according to the present invention from ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below.
The weight ratio R between the amount of silicone copolymer and the amount of anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymer was calculated for each of the compositions (A1), (A2) and (A3).
(a) 1.2
(a) 1.8
(a) 3
(b) 1.8
(b) 2.7
(b) 4.5
(*)mixture of Carbopol Ultrez 10 and Carbopol 980 according to the ratio 2/1
(**) KP-545L sold by the company Shin-Etsu
2) Procedure
The compositions (A1), (A2) and (A3) were prepared according to the same protocol as that previously described.
The tacky effect of each of the compositions (A1), (A2) and (A3) was measured with a Swantech TAXT2 texturometer equipped with Texture expert exceed V212 software.
Each of the compositions (A1), (A2) and (A3) is deposited on a flat support and spread using a film drawer, having a thickness of 100 microns, at 25° C., in order to obtain a film of homogeneous composition.
The tacky effect is then measured using a metal support which moves at a speed of 0.10 mm/s until the film of composition to be tested is achieved. The tacky effect corresponds to the withdrawal force required to detach the film.
3) Results
The results are given in the table below.
The results obtained above show that the composition (A1), for which the weight ratio R between the amount of silicone copolymers and the amount of anionic crosslinked hydrophilic polymers is less than 5, has improved cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of tacky-feel effect. It is in fact less tacky to the feel than the compositions (A2) and (A3) for which the weight ratio R is greater than 5.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1555320 | Jun 2015 | FR | national |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 62175635 | Jun 2015 | US |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Parent | 15735032 | Dec 2017 | US |
| Child | 17382893 | US |
