Patent Application
20210267866
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, and most particularly for cleansing and/or conditioning the hair, comprising a particular combination of anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants, and also one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials using said composition, and also to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular for conferring conditioning properties on said keratin materials.
Hair can generally be damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and/or by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing. To remedy these drawbacks, it is now common practice to have recourse to hair compositions which make it possible to condition the hair after these treatments to give it in particular sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and disentangling properties. These hair compositions may be, for example, care compositions, to be applied before or after a shampooing operation, or else compositions that are both washing and conditioning compositions, such as conditioning shampoos. The latter generally have good washing power, but the cosmetic properties provided still have room for improvement; conditioning agents, most commonly silicone-based conditioning agents, are then generally included in these shampoos.
However, silicones are not always well liked by consumers, who are increasingly in search of compositions which can cleanse the hair while at the same time conditioning it, but which do not comprise silicones.
It has been proposed to replace silicones with various carbon-based conditioning agents, such as fatty alcohols or fatty esters; however, these hair compositions are not necessarily entirely satisfactory and still have room for improvement, notably with regard to the deposition of the conditioning agents, notably nonsilicone conditioning agents, on keratin fibers.
There is thus a real need to develop cosmetic compositions, notably hair compositions, intended for cleansing and conditioning keratin materials, in particular the hair, which are capable of giving the hair improved cosmetic properties, notably in terms of disentangling, smooth feel and visual smoothness, suppleness and coating of the fiber, while at the same time retaining good washing power, notably good foaming power (abundant foam, rapidly generated, of good quality).
This aim is achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is a cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, comprising:
(i) one or more anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof;
(ii) one or more non-sulfated anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactant(s) (i);
(iii) one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from alkyl(poly)glycosides;
(iv) one or more amphoteric surfactants;
(v) one or more polymers chosen from amphoteric polymers and cationic polymers.
It has been found that the composition according to the invention has satisfactory foaming power. It allows the production of an abundant, rapidly-generated foam, which spreads easily on keratin fibers and is easy to remove on rinsing.
Certain users of shampoos, notably conditioning shampoos, may have more or less sensitized hair, i.e. hair that is generally damaged or embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and/or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing. Thus, the composition according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the cosmetic properties given to the keratin fibers, notably to the hair, preferably sensitized hair. In particular, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the disentangling and the suppleness of the hair, and also the smooth feel and visual smoothness of the hair, and the coating of the fibers. These properties make it possible to confer a good level of perception of care given to the hair.
The composition according to the invention also has the advantage of being stable on storage both at room temperature (20-25° C.) and at 45° C., notably as regards its visual aspect and/or its viscosity.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “stable” refers to a composition which, after two months of storage, shows no change in appearance, color, odor or viscosity.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is noncoloring.
According to the present invention, the term “noncoloring composition” refers to a composition not containing any dye for keratin fibers, such as direct dyes or oxidation dye precursors (bases and/or couplers). If they are present, their content does not exceed 0.005% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Specifically, at such a content, only the composition would be dyed, i.e. no dyeing effect would be observed on the keratin fibers.
In the following text, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from . . . to . . . ”.
Moreover, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”, and may be replaced therewith.
As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid type (i) and at least one non-sulfated anionic surfactant (ii) other than the anionic surfactant(s) (i).
Thus, for the purposes of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least two different anionic surfactants.
The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
In the present description, a species is termed “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
The composition of the invention contains at least one anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those including from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups.
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):
R1—(OC2H4)n—OCH2COOA (1)
in which:
It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different groups R1.
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:
Even more preferentially, use is made of compounds of formula (1) in which R denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.
Use is preferably made of polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including from 2 to 15 alkylene oxide groups, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Among the commercial products that may preferably be used are the products sold by the company KAO under the names:
Akypo® NP 70 (R1=nonylphenyl, n=7, A=H)
Akypo® NP 40 (R1=nonylphenyl, n=4, A=H)
Akypo® OP 40 (R1=octylphenyl, n=4, A=H)
Akypo® OP 80 (R1=octylphenyl, n=8, A=H)
Akypo® OP 190 (R1=octylphenyl, n=19, A=H)
Akypo® RLM 38 (R1=(C12-C14)alkyl, n=4, A=H)
Akypo® RLM 38 NV (R1=(C12-C14)alkyl, n=4, A=Na)
Akypo® RLM 45 CA (R1=(C12-C14)alkyl, n=4.5, A=H)
Akypo® RLM 45 NV (R1=(C12-C14)alkyl, n=4.5, A=Na)
Akypo® RLM 100 (R1=(C12-C14)alkyl, n=10, A=H)
Akypo® RLM 100 NV (R1=(C12-C14)alkyl, n=10, A=Na)
Akypo® RLM 130 (R1=(C12-C14)alkyl, n=13, A=H)
Akypo® RLM 160 NV (R1=(C12-C14)alkyl, n=16, A=Na),
or by the company Sandoz under the names:
Sandopan DTC-Acid (R1=(C13)alkyl, n=6, A=H)
Sandopan DTC (R1=(C13)alkyl, n=6, A=Na)
Sandopan LS 24 (R1=(C12-C14)alkyl, n=12, A=Na)
Sandopan JA 36 (R1=(C13)alkyl, n=18, A=H),
and more particularly the products sold under the following names:
Akypo® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid)
Polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof are preferably used.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid(s) and/or salts thereof in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, better still from 1% to 20% by weight and preferentially from 1.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional anionic surfactant other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof (i) described above. This surfactant is non-sulfated, i.e. it does not comprise any sulfate groups (OSO3H or —OSO3—) in its structure.
Preferably, the additional anionic surfactants (ii) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from anionic surfactants including in their structure one or more sulfonate and/or phosphate and/or carboxylate groups, preferably sulfonate groups.
The anionic surfactant(s) (ii) may be oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated. The total mean number of ethylene oxide (EO) and/or propylene oxide (PO) groups may then range from 1 to 50 and notably from 1 to 10.
Among the carboxylic anionic surfactants (thus surfactants including at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function in their structure) that may be used, mention may be made of: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Mention may also be made of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from
Among the sulfonate anionic surfactants (thus surfactants including at least one sulfonate function in their structure) that may be used, mention may be made of: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from
When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium or calcium salt. Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Preferentially, the additional anionic surfactants (ii) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from
Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are in the form of salts, and in particular alkaline salts, notably sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, including amino alcohol salts, and/or magnesium salts. These salts preferably comprise from 2 to 5 ethylene oxide groups.
Use is more preferably made of C12-C20 olefin sulfonates, such as sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonates.
The additional non-sulfated anionic surfactant(s) (ii) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 3.5% to 18% by weight, better still from 4% to 15% by weight and even better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a particular embodiment, the total content of anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention is between 2% and 30% by weight, notably between 3% and 25% by weight, preferably between 4% and 20% by weight, and preferentially between 5% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Nonionic Surfactants (iii)
As indicated above, the composition comprises one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from alkyl(poly)glycosides.
The composition may also comprise one or more additional (optional) non-ionic surfactants, other than the alkyl(poly)glycoside(s).
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from alkyl(poly)glycosides represented by the following general formula: R10-(R20)t-(G)v in which:
Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8/C16 alkyl(poly)glucosides 1,4, and notably decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.
Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Oramix CG 110 and Oramix® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70, or the products sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK.
Preferably, use is made of C8/C16-alkyl(poly)glycosides 1,4, notably as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.
Preferentially, the nonionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
The composition may also comprise additional nonionic surfactants that could be chosen from:
Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) of alkyl(poly)glycoside type are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Amphoteric Surfactants (iv)
The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants.
In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are nonsilicone surfactants. They may notably be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
Mention may in particular be made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines.
Among the optionally quaternized derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective structures (II) and (III) below:
Ra—CONHCH2CH2—N+(Rb)(Rc)—CH2COO−, M+, X− (II)
in which:
Ra′—CONHCH2CH2—N(B)(B′) (III)
in which:
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
Use may also be made of compounds of formula (IV):
Ra″—NHCH(Y″)—(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n′—N(Rd)(Re) (IV)
in which:
Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
These compounds may be used alone or as mixtures.
Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, use is preferably made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and the compounds of formula (IV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).
Preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine.
Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferentially in a content ranging from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the compositions according to the invention have a weight ratio of the total content of amphoteric surfactants (iv) to the total content of non-sulfated anionic surfactants (ii) other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid anionic surfactants (i) of greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably greater than or equal to 0.6, in particular greater than or equal to 0.8. It may thus be between 0.5 and 3.0, notably between 0.6 and 2.0, and better still between 0.7 and 1.5.
The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more polymers chosen from amphoteric polymers and cationic polymers. It is, needless to say, possible to use a mixture of polymers, in particular two different polymers, both chosen from amphoteric polymers and cationic polymers.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cationic polymer” means any nonsilicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “amphoteric polymer” means any nonsilicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing both cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
Preferably, the cationic charge density of said polymer(s) is less than or equal to 4 meq/g.
The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
The polymers may be associative or non-associative.
The term “associative polymer” refers to an amphiphilic polymer that is capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with itself or with other molecules. It generally includes, in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group. In particular, the hydrophobic group may be a fatty hydrocarbon-based chain such as a linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl group including at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5×106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3×106 approximately.
Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formula:
in which:
The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. In particular, mention may be made of Polyquaternium 10. Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may also be made of cationic associative celluloses, or quaternized celluloses derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
Preferentially, mention may be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):
in which:
Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R′a, R′b and R′c represents a linear or branched C8-C30, better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14, alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, notably methyl. Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R′a, R′b and R′c represents a linear or branched C8-C30, better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14, alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
Even better still, R may be a group chosen from —N+(CH3)3, Q′− and —N+(C12H25)(CH3)2, Q′−, preferably an —N+(CH3)3, Q′− group.
Even better still, R′ may be a group —N+(C12H25)(CH3)2, Q′−.
The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
Mention may notably be made of the following polymers having the INCI names:
Mention may also be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R′ represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferentially R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3)3N+—, Cl− and R′ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(C12H25)N+-, Cl−. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of the Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical.
More particularly, the polymers of formula (Ib) are those whose viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive, preferentially between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.
Among the cationic galactomannan gums, described more particularly in patents U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride). Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia.
Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, notably those including quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
(3) polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers.
(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.
(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):
in which
Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) for example sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-6, in particular sold under the name Merquat 100, and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, for example having the INCI name Polyquaternium-7 and in particular sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.
(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:
in which:
Preferably, X− is an anion, such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
Mention may be made more particularly of polymers that are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula:
in which R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X− is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is the one for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n=3, p=6 and X=Cl, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.
(9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):
in which:
Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
(11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
(12) polymers including in their structure:
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
In other words, these polymers may be notably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol % to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol % to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0% to 90 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B).
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
The weight-average molecular weight of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
The polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, in a nonlimiting manner, the products provided under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolyzates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from those of families (1), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above, preferentially from those of families (2) and (7), alone or as a mixture.
The amphoteric polymers may also be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of:
(i) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer,
(ii) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer, and
(iii) one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylic acid-type acid monomer.
Preferably, the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer are units of structure (Ia) below:
in which R1 denotes H or CH3 and R2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino and —NH—CH2OH radical.
Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (Ia).
The unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (Ia) in which R1 denotes H and R2 is an amino radical (NH2) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type are units of structure (IIa) below:
in which:
Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (11a).
Among these units derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer of formula (IIa), the ones that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R3 denotes a methyl radical, k is equal to 3, R5, R6 and R7 denote a methyl radical, and Y− denotes a chloride anion.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type are units of formula (IIIa):
in which R8 denotes H or CH3 and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical or an —NH—C(CH3)2—CH2—SO3H radical.
The preferred units of formula (IIIa) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (IIIa) is the one derived from acrylic acid, for which R8 denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical.
The acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non-neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (IIIa).
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol % of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol % to 70 mol % and more preferably from 40 mol % to 60 mol % of units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer.
The content of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol % to 60 mol % and preferentially from 20 mol % to 55 mol %.
The content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol % to 20 mol % and preferentially from 5 mol % to 15 mol %.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer, a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer and a (meth)acrylic acid-type monomer such as described above.
However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said amphoteric polymers are constituted solely of units derived from monomers of (meth)acrylamide type (i), of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) and of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
Examples of particularly preferred amphoteric polymers that may be mentioned include acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers, in particular those having the INCI name: Polyquaternium-53. Corresponding products are notably sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco.
As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. An example that may be mentioned is Polyquaternium 22, notably the commercial product Merquat 280 sold by the company Nalco.
Preferably, the polymer(s) chosen from cationic polymers and/or amphoteric polymers are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least:
In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least:
The composition may comprise said cationic and/or amphoteric polymers in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a total water content of between 50% and 95% by weight, preferably 60% and 90% by weight, even better still between 65% and 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the compositions according to the invention generally ranges from 3.0 to 9.0, preferably from 3.5 to 7.0, preferentially from 4.0 to 6.0 and better still from 4.5 to 5.5.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more conventional additives that are well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators; C12-C30 fatty alcohols; ceramides; C12-C32 fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; mineral, plant or synthetic oils; vitamins or provitamins; nonionic or anionic polymers; pH stabilizers, preserving agents; dyes; fragrances; agents for preventing hair loss, antiseborrheic agents, antidandruff agents.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
These additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any silicone (0%).
The compositions in accordance with the invention may be used as shampoos for washing and/or conditioning the hair; they are preferably applied in this case to damp hair in amounts that are effective for washing it; the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands may then be removed, after an optional leave-on time, by rinsing with water, the operation possibly being repeated one or more times.
Another subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably a hair treatment process, notably for washing and/or conditioning keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the application to said materials of a composition as defined above, followed by an optional leave-on time and/or rinsing and/or drying.
The composition may be applied to dry or wet hair, and preferably to wet or damp hair.
According to one embodiment, the process consists in applying to keratin fibers an effective amount of the composition according to the invention, optionally massaging the fibers, optionally leaving the composition to stand on the fibers, and rinsing. The leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibers may be between a few seconds and 15 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 5 minutes. The composition is generally rinsed out with water.
An optional step of drying the keratin fibers may be performed.
The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described previously, for the cosmetic treatment of, notably for washing and/or conditioning, keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
The cosmetic compositions (A) and (B) according to the invention and the comparative composition are prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).
The compositions according to the invention may be used as shampoos.
It is found that compositions A and B according to the invention give the head of hair good properties in terms of disentangling, a smooth feel and visual smoothness, suppleness and coating of the fiber.
The cosmetic compositions C and D according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).
The compositions according to the invention may be used as shampoos.
It is found that these compositions give the head of hair good properties in terms of disentangling, a smooth feel and visual smoothness, suppleness and coating of the fiber.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1855863 | Jun 2018 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2019/066262 | 6/19/2019 | WO | 00 |
