The invention is directed to a non-aqueous mixture comprising a plurality of jojoba carboxylates in combination with a plurality of jojoba alcohols.
It is known in the art to formulate various cosmetic formulations which enhance skin hydration. Such cosmetic formulations include a number of compounds to promote skin hydration. Such cosmetic formulations further include one or more thickeners to boost the viscosity. Such cosmetic formulations further include one or more bases to lower the pH.
What is needed is a naturally-derived formulation that promotes skin hydration, that also increases the viscosity of a cosmetic formulation when disposed therein, and that further adjusts the pH of a cosmetic formulation when disposed therein.
Applicants' formulation comprising a plurality of jojoba carboxylates in combination with a plurality of jojoba alcohols promotes skin hydration, increases the viscosity of a cosmetic formulation when disposed therein, and adjusts the pH of a cosmetic formulation when disposed therein.
The invention comprises a non-aqueous mixture comprising a plurality of jojoba carboxylates in combination with a plurality of jojoba alcohols. The invention further comprises a variety of personal care formulations including at least one ingredient selected from the group consisting of glycerin, citric acid, stearic acid, and jojoba oil, wherein each personal care formulation further comprises an amount of from about 1 weight percent to about 25 weight percent of a mixture comprising a plurality of jojoba carboxylates and a plurality of jojoba alcohols. The personal care formulations are selected from the group consisting of shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hair conditioners, hair reparatives, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hair mousses, bath and shower gels, liquid soaps, moisturizing sprays, makeup, pressed powder formulations, lip products, bath additives, sanitizing wipes, hand sanitizers, premoistened towelettes, skin lotions and creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens.
The invention will be better understood from a reading of the following detailed description taken in conjunction with the drawings in which like reference designators are used to designate like elements, and in which:
This invention is described in preferred embodiments in the following description with reference to the Figures, in which like numbers represent the same or similar elements. Reference throughout this specification to “one embodiment,” “an embodiment,” or similar language means that a particular feature, structure, or characteristic described in connection with the embodiment is included in at least one embodiment of the present invention. Thus, appearances of the phrases “in one embodiment,” “in an embodiment,” and similar language throughout this specification may, but do not necessarily, all refer to the same embodiment.
The described features, structures, or characteristics of the invention may be combined in any suitable manner in one or more embodiments. In the following description, numerous specific details are recited to provide a thorough understanding of embodiments of the invention. One skilled in the relevant art will recognize, however, that the invention may be practiced without one or more of the specific details, or with other methods, components, materials, and so forth. In other instances, well-known structures, materials, or operations are not shown or described in detail to avoid obscuring aspects of the invention.
Jojoba oil is obtained from the seed of the shrub Simmondsiachinensis which is native to the Sonoran desert. Jojoba oil is a mixture of naturally-occurring compounds obtained from the jojoba seed, sometimes called the jojoba bean. Jojoba seed contains about 50 weight percent of a yellow oil commonly referred to as jojoba oil. In contrast to other vegetable oils which comprise a mixture of triglycerides, jojoba oil comprises a mixture of long-chain esters.
As a first step in formulating Applicants' personal care formulations, a mixture of jojoba oil-derived esters I are saponified using a base II to form a mixture of jojoba carboxylates III and a mixture of jojoba alcohols IV.
By “jojoba carboxylate,” Applicants means a compound formed by saponifying jojoba oil, wherein that compound comprises a —COO− moiety in combination with a cation. By “jojoba alcohol,” Applicants means a compound formed by saponifying jojoba oil, wherein that compound comprises a hydroxyl moiety.
In certain embodiments, the base II comprises potassium hydroxide, i.e. KOH wherein n equals 1. In other embodiments, base II comprises sodium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, and the like.
In certain embodiments, the mixture of esters I comprises naturally-occurring jojoba oil. Jojoba oil includes a variety of ester-group-containing compounds wherein the R1 component comprises a plurality of carbon-containing moieties having, primarily, 17, 18, 20, and 22 carbon atoms, and wherein the R2 component comprises a plurality of carbon-containing moieties having, primarily, 19, 20, 22, and 24 carbon atoms. As those skilled in the art will appreciate, the R1 component of these various jojoba oil ester-group-containing constituents includes at least one carbon-carbon double bond having a cis-configuration. Such a cis-configuration is also known as the Z-configuration. As those skilled in the art will further appreciate, the R2 component of these various jojoba oil ester-group-containing constituents includes at least one carbon-carbon double bond having a cis-configuration. Such a cis-configuration is known as the Z-configuration.
In certain embodiments, mixture of esters I comprises a mixture of “jojoba esters,” wherein those jojoba esters are formed by transesterifying jojoba oil. In certain embodiments, mixture of esters I comprises a mixture of jojoba esters wherein one or both of the double bonds in one or more of the esters have been isomerized to an E, or trans configuration. In certain embodiments, mixture of esters I comprises a plurality of esters wherein one or both of the double bonds have been hydrogenated.
In certain embodiments one or more non-jojoba oil derived hydroxyl group containing compounds are added to the saponification reaction shown above. In certain embodiments, the one or more non-jojoba oil derived hydroxyl group containing compounds comprise an alcohol, such as 1-docosanol sometimes referred to as Behenyl Alcohol and/or propoxylated stearyl alcohol. Table 1 recites a jojoba carboxylate formulation comprising Behenyl Alcohol.
In certain embodiments, the one or more non-jojoba oil derived hydroxyl group containing compounds comprise a diol, such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol (butylene glycol), and/or 1,4-butanediol. Table 1 recites a jojoba carboxylate formulation comprising butylene glycol. In certain embodiments, the one or more non-jojoba oil derived hydroxyl group containing compounds do not comprise a triol, such as for example and without limitation glycerin.
Example I is presented to further illustrate to persons skilled in the art how to make and use the invention and to identify certain embodiments thereof. This example is not intended as a limitation, however, upon the scope of the invention.
Jojoba oil was charged to a clean dry reactor and butylene glycol added with a stoichiometeric amount of potassium hydroxide based upon the ester moieties. This two phase mixture was slowly heated with stirring under nitrogen. After reaching a reaction temperature of between about 35° C. and about 200° C., the reaction mixture was stirred for several hours while that reaction mixture was monitored using Infrared spectroscopy. An ester peak was initially observed, and was seen to disappear. A carboxylate peak appeared and was seen to increase.
After substantially complete conversion of the ester to carboxylate and alcohol the reaction mixture was cooled, and the pH was not adjusted. By “substantially complete conversion,” Applicants mean that less that about 5% of the starting jojoba esters remained. In certain embodiments, the jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation was bleached with hydrogen peroxide (˜0.1% maximum). An analysis of the jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation of this Example I showed:
Applicants' jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation of Example I was evaluated by MatTek Corporation using an EPIDERM Skin Model In Vitro Toxicity Testing System. More specifically, the jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation was tested for in vitro dermal irritancy potential using an observed ET-50 test wherein normal, human-derived epidermal keratinocytes were treated with the jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation of Example I.
The percentage of viable cells was then determined for each test sample using a spectrophotometric analysis at 570 nm. Thereafter, a semi-log plot of the percent viabilities, on the linear Y axis, versus the dosing times, on the log X axis. By interpolation, the time which the percent viability would equal 50%, i.e. the ET-50 time, was determined. A Sodium Lauryl Sulfate control showed an ET-50 time of less than 1 hour. A Triton X control elicited an ET-50 of 3.7 hours. The jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation of Example I showed an ET-50 time exceeding 24 hours. Applicants' jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation of Example I is categorized in the non-irritating range.
Applicants' jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation of Example I was further evaluated using an in vitro EpiOcular irritancy potential using an observed ET-50 test wherein normal, human-derived epidermal keratinocytes which have been cultured to form a stratified, squamous epithelium similar to that found in cornea were treated with the jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation.
Test cells were treated with Applicants' jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation for about 5 minutes to about 4 hours. The percentage of viable cells was then determined for each test sample using spectrophotometric analysis at 570 nm. Thereafter, a semi-log plot of the percent viabilities, on the linear Y axis, versus the dosing times, on the log X axis. By interpolation, the time which the percent viability would equal 50%, i.e. the ET-50 time, was determined. Equation 1 can be used to estimate the rabbit Draize eye score:
DRAIZE=−4.74+101.7/(ET-50)1/2 (1)
Applicants' jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation of Example I showed an ET-50 time greater than 256 minutes. That jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation was given an estimated Draize ocular irritation score of 0.
Applicants have discovered that their jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation enhances the hydration of human skin. A 4-hour hydration study was performed by Evalulab, 5475 Pare, Suite 206, Mont-Royal, Quebec, Canada. This 4-hour hydration study included a control, a gel base comprising 10 weight percent of the jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation of Example I, a gel base comprising 15 weight percent of the jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation of Example I, and a shave cream formulation comprising 10 weight percent of the jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol formulation of Example I. Table 3 recites the 10 and 15 weight percent jojobate carboxylate/jojoba alcohol/glycol gel formulations. Table 4 recites the shave cream formulation.
Skin hydration was determined by measuring the skin capacitance, a parameter related to the electric properties of the corny layer and influenced by the amount of water present. Due to the dipolar nature of water, the higher the hydration level, the higher the conductivity of the skin, resulting in higher measured capacitance.
The study used 12 subjects, each subject having a measured skin hydration level below 30 units. On the day of the study, after 20 minutes of stabilization in a controlled room, the test zones (forearms or lower outer legs) of each subject were examined to ensure a “dry” state skin. After selecting either the forearm or lower outer leg for testing, the selected area was divided into distinct test zones and marked. The test zones were adjacent to each other and measured 9 cm2 (3 cm×3 cm) each. The test topical formulations were applied onto the test zones. The test zones were distributed at random per formulation to reduce systematic errors related to anatomical differences between the subjects. The dose applied per test zone was constant, at 2 mg/cm2.
Hydration measurements were taken at t=0 (before application), t=30 minutes, t=1 hour, t=2 hours, t=3 hours, and t=4 hours. Hydration was measured using a Corneometer CM 825 sold in commerce by Courage & Khazaka. The Corneometer produces arbitrary units of measurement: <20=very dry, 20-30=dry, 50=normal, etc. Table 5 recites the data collected during this 4-hour hydration study. Each data point comprises an average over the 12 subjects of the study. Control data points were taken from untreated skin areas.
A 24-hour hydration study was performed by Evalulab, 5475 Pare, Suite 206, Mont-Royal, Quebec, Canada. This 24-hour hydration study included a control, a prior art formulation, and a 23 weight percent in water solution of the Jojoba Carboxylate/Jojoba Alcohol/Glycol formulation of Example I. Table 6 recites the compositions for the compositions examined in the 24-hour study.
The 24 hour hydration study was conducted in accord with the 4 hour study described hereinabove. Hydration measurements were taken at t=0 (before application), t=30 minutes, t=1 hour, t=2 hours, t=3 hours, t=4 hours, and t=24 hours. Hydration was measured using a Corneometer CM 825 sold in commerce by Courage & Khazaka. Table 7 recites the data collected during this first hydration study. Each data point comprises an average over the 12 subjects of the study. Control data points were taken from untreated skin areas.
Applicants have found that disposing their Jojoba Carboxylate/Jojoba Alcohol/Glycol formulation of Example 1 in water increases the bulk viscosity of that aqueous mixture. Table 8 recites measured viscosities for various loadings of the Jojoba Carboxylate/Jojoba Alcohol/Glycol formulation of Example 1 in water.
Applicants have further discovered that their Jojoba Carboxylate/Jojoba Alcohol/Glycol formulation of Example 1 can be used to adjust the pH and/or the viscosity of an aqueous solution of polyacrylic acid (“PAA”) V. In certain embodiments, R3 is H and R4 is COOH.
In certain embodiments, PAA V comprises a product sold in commerce by Noveon under the trade name CARBOPOL ULTREZ 10 POLYMER. Table 9 recites measured pH values for a 0.25 weight percent aqueous solution of CARBOPOL ULTREZ 10 POLYMER, wherein that solution further comprises varying amounts of the Jojoba Carboxylate/Jojoba Alcohol/Glycol formulation of Example 1.
Referring now to Table 9 and
Table 10 recites measured viscosities for a 0.25 weight percent aqueous solution of CARBOPOL ULTREZ 10 POLYMER, wherein that solution further comprises varying amounts of the Jojoba Carboxylate/Jojoba Alcohol/Glycol formulation of Example 1.
Referring now to Table 10 and
Referring now to Tables 9 and 10 and
The invention further comprises a plurality of personal care formulations and/or personal care items (collectively “personal care formulations”), wherein each personal care formulation comprises at least one ingredient selected from the group consisting of glycerin, citric acid, stearic acid, and jojoba oil, wherein each personal care formulation further comprises an amount of from about 1 weight percent to about 25 weight percent of a mixture comprising a plurality of jojoba carboxylates and a plurality of jojoba alcohols. Applicants' personal care formulations are selected from the group consisting of shampoos, shampoo conditioners, hair styling gels, hair conditioners, hair reparatives, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hair mousses, bath and shower gels, liquid soaps, moisturizing sprays, makeup, pressed powder formulations, lip products, bath additives, sanitizing wipes, hand sanitizers, premoistened towelettes, skin lotions and creams, shaving creams, and sunscreens.
The following Examples comprising Applicants' personal care formulations comprising Applicants' Jojoba Carboxylate/Jojoba Alcohol/Glycol Formulation of Example I are presented to further illustrate to persons skilled in the art how to make and use the invention and to identify certain embodiments thereof. These examples are not intended as limitations, however, upon the scope of the invention.
Procedure
Add the Phase A water to a suitable vessel. Begin mixing and sprinkle in the Jaguar. Continue mixing and add the Citric Acid. In a separate vessel, combine the STANDAPOL and the JOJOBA HYDRATE BG. Mix and heat to 70 C. Mix until uniform. Add Phase B to Phase A with mixing. Add Phase C to Phases A and B. Continue mixing and cool to 45 C or lower, and add Phase D. Mix until uniform
Suppliers
1Rhodia
2Desert Whale Jojoba Company
3Care Chemicals
4Croda
5Aroma Tech
6ISP
Procedure
Combine Jojoba Carboxylate/Jojoba Alcohol/Glycol Formulation and Glycerin. Heat to 65-75 C with mixing. When batch is uniform and clear, add water and continue mixing. Premix Phase B. Heat to 50 C to dissolve solids. Add to batch and mix until uniform.
Suppliers
1Desert Whale Jojoba Company
2Dow Chemical
Procedure
Heat water to 70-75 C.. Paste Phase B in separate container. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix until uniform and lump-free. At 70-75 C. add Phase C in order. Mix until all solids are dissolved and batch is smooth. Cool to 40 C.. Premix Phase D and warm to 50 C. to dissolve solids. Add to batch and mix. Add Phase E and continue mixing until homogenous.
Suppliers
1CP Kelco
2Finetex
3Desert Whale Jojoba Company
4Stepan
5Lipo
6Dow Chemicals
7Premier
Procedure
Heat water to 70-75 C.. Add Jojoba Hydrate and mix until completely dissolved and uniform. In separate container, premix Phase B, warm to 50 C. and mix until all solids are dissolved. Add Phase B to Phase A. Cool batch to below 40 C.. Add Phase C and mix until uniform.
Suppliers
1Desert Whale Jojoba Company
2Dow Chemical
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Procedure
1) Sprinkle Ultrez onto water surface and let stand until all particles are wet.
2) Begin mixing until propeller and heat to 70-75 C..
3) Add phase B with propeller.
4) Heat phase C to 80 C. and add to phase AB at 75 C. with propeller mixing.
7) Switch to sweep mixing and add phase D at 45 C..
8) Add phase E at room temperature with sweep mixing.
Suppliers
1Noveon
2Dow Chemical
3Desert Whale Jojoba Company
4Cognis
5Stepan
6McIntyre
7Wellington Fragrance Co.
Procedure
1) Sprinkle Ultrez onto water surface and let stand until all particles are wet (no longer white).
2) Begin mixing with propeller and heat to 70-75 C..
3) Add phase B ingredients with propeller mixing.
4) Heat phase C ingredients to 80 C. and add to phase AB at 75 C. with propeller mixing.
5) Switch to sweep at 40 C. and add phase D.
6) Add premixed phase E at room temperature with sweep.
Suppliers
1Noveon
2Dow Chemical
3Desert Whale Jojoba Company
4Cognis
5McIntyre
6Lipo Chemical
Procedure
In a separate container, combine Jojoba Carboxylate/Jojoba Alcohol/Glycol Formulation and about 10% Glycerin. Heat to 50-60 C. with mixing. When premix is uniform and clear, add to the remainder of the Glycerin and continue mixing until uniform.
Suppliers
1Desert Whale Jojoba Company
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Procedure
Heat water to 70-75 C.. Add Jojoba Hydrate and mix until completely dissolved and uniform. Slowly add Phase B in small increments with mixing. Continue adding and mixing until batch is uniform. In separate container, premix Phase C, warm to 50 C. and mix until all solids are dissolved. Add Phase C to batch and mix until homogeneous and smooth.
Suppliers
1Desert Whale Jojoba Company
2Dow Chemical
Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil
Procedure
Combine Phase A and heat to 70-75 C. with mixing. In a separate vessel, combine Phase B, heat to 45-50 C. and mix until all solids are dissolved. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix until uniform. Slowly add Phase C to batch with mixing. Cool to 35 C..
Suppliers
1Desert Whale Jojoba
2Dow Chemical
Procedure
Combine Phase A and heat to 70-75 C. with mixing. In a separate vessel, combine Phase B, heat to 45-50 C. and mix until all solids are dissolved. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix until uniform. Slowly add Phase C to batch with mixing. Cool to 35 C..
Suppliers
1Desert Whale Jojoba
2Dow Chemical
3Chemtec
Procedure
Combine Phase A and heat to 70-75 C. with mixing. In a separate vessel, combine Phase B, heat to 45-50 C. and mix until all solids are dissolved. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix until uniform. Slowly add Phase C to batch with mixing. Cool to 35 C..
Suppliers
1Desert Whale Jojoba
2Dow Chemical
3Inolex
While the preferred embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated in detail, it should be apparent that modifications and adaptations to those embodiments may occur to one skilled in the art without departing from the scope of the present invention as set forth in the following claims.
This application claims priority from a U.S. Provisional Application having Ser. No. 60/811,230 filed Jun. 5, 2006.
Number | Date | Country | |
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60811230 | Jun 2006 | US |