Patent Grant
7115147
The present invention relates to a composition for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, preferably of human keratin fibres and more particularly the hair, comprising, preferably in a medium that is suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidation dye, and also at least one polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid ether or a salt thereof, at least one mono- or polyglycerolated surfactant and at least one nonionic oxyalkylenated surfactant. The invention also relates to the dyeing devices and processes using the composition.
It is known practice to dye keratin fibres, and in particular human hair, with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally known as “oxidation bases”, in particular ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, and heterocyclic bases.
Oxidation dye precursors are compounds that are initially uncoloured or only weakly coloured, which develop their dyeing power on the hair in the presence of oxidizing agents, leading to the formation of coloured compounds. The formation of these coloured compounds results either from an oxidative condensation of the “oxidation bases” with themselves or from an oxidative condensation of the “oxidation bases” with coloration modifiers, or “couplers”, which are generally present in the dye compositions used in oxidation dyeing and are represented more particularly by meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols and meta-diphenols, and certain heterocyclic compounds.
The variety of molecules used, which consist on the one hand of the “oxidation bases” and on the other hand of the “couplers”, allows a very wide range of colours to be obtained.
These oxidation bases and couplers are formulated in vehicles or supports allowing them to be applied to keratin fibres after mixing with an oxidizing agent.
These vehicles are generally aqueous and usually comprise one or more surfactants.
Thus, it has already been recommended to use anionic surfactants of the carboxylic acid alkyl ether type, in combination with nonionic oxyalkylenated surfactants. The said combinations produce oxidation dye compositions that have good rheological properties and generate shades with very good dyeing properties. However, it has been observed that when oxidation dyes are used in hydrochloride or sulphate form, such combinations of surfactants lead to heterogeneous, non-clear compositions.
Thus, after considerable research conducted in this matter, the inventors have now discovered that it is possible to obtain oxidation dye compositions that are rich in hydrochloride-containing or sulphate-containing oxidation dyes, that are clear and that make it possible to obtain shades with very good dyeing properties, by partially replacing in the said dye composition the alkylenated nonionic surfactant with a mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant.
One subject of the present invention is thus a composition for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, preferably of human keratin fibres and more particularly the hair, comprising, preferably in a medium that is suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidation dye containing hydrochloride or sulphate, and wherein it also comprises at least one polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid ether or a salt thereof, at least one mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant and at least one nonionic oxyalkylenated surfactant.
The said dye composition also makes it possible to give a more transparent appearance to the formulations which comprise it and which are liquid.
The shades obtained moreover have good fastness.
Another subject of the invention relates to a ready-to-use composition for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, which comprises, in a medium that is suitable for dyeing, at least one composition as described above and at least one oxidizing agent.
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “ready-to-use composition” means the composition intended to be applied immediately to the keratin fibres, i.e. it may be stored before use without further modification, or may result from the extemporaneous mixing of two or more compositions.
The invention is also directed towards a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, and in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair, which comprises applying to the fibres a dye composition comprising, preferably in a medium that is suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidation dye containing hydrochloride or sulphate, the colour being developed at alkaline, neutral or acidic pH using an oxidizing composition comprising, preferably in a medium that is suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidizing agent, which is mixed with the dye composition just at the time of use, or which is applied sequentially without intermediate rinsing, the dye composition and the oxidizing composition also comprising, distributed indifferently between the two, at least one polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid ether or a salt thereof, at least one mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant and at least one nonionic oxyalkylenated surfactant.
In one variant of the said process, the polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid ether(s) or salts thereof, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant(s) and nonionic oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) are combined in the same dye composition or oxidizing composition and even more particularly in the dye composition.
A subject of the invention is also a multi-compartment dyeing device or “kit” for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, in particular of human keratin fibres and more particularly the hair, which comprises a compartment containing a dye composition comprising, preferably in a medium that is suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidation dye, and another compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising, preferably in a medium that is suitable for dyeing, an oxidizing agent, the dye composition and the oxidizing composition also comprising, distributed indifferently (in any manner) between the two, at least one polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid ether or a salt thereof, at least one polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid ether or a salt thereof, at least one mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant and at least one nonionic oxyalkylenated surfactant.
In one device variant, the polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid ether(s) or salts thereof, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant(s) and nonionic oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) are combined in the same dye composition or oxidizing composition, and even more particularly in the dye composition.
However, other characteristics, aspects, subjects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
Oxyalkylenated Carboxylic Acid Ethers and Salts Thereof
The expression “oxyalkylenated (or polyoxyalkylenated) carboxylic acid ether” preferably means any compound of formula (I) below:
in which:
The oxyalkylenated carboxylic acid ethers and salts thereof preferably used according to the present invention are selected from the group consisting of those of formula (I) in which R denotes a (C12–C14)alkyl, oleyl, cetyl or stearyl radical or mixture of radicals; a nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, p=0, and n ranges from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.
Compounds of formula (I) in which R denotes a (C12)alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, p=0 and n ranges from 2 to 10 are even more preferably used.
Among the commercial products that may preferably be used are the products sold by the company Chem Y under the names:
The oxyalkylenated carboxylic acid ethers or salts thereof preferably represent from about 2% to 15% and more preferably from about 3% to 10% of the total weight of the dye composition, and preferably from about 0.5% to 15% and more preferably from about 0.7% to 10% of the total weight of the ready-to-use dye composition (comprising the oxidizing agent).
Mono- or Polyglycerolated Nonionic Surfactants
The mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants are chosen especially from mono- or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols.
The term “mono- or polyglycerolated fatty alcohol” means any compound of formula (II) below:
in which:
Compounds of this type that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
The fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols in the same respect that the value of m represents a random value, which means that several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in a commercial product in the form of a mixture.
Among the mono- or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols that it is more particularly preferred to use are the C8/C10 alcohol containing one mole of glycerol, the C10/C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
Oxyalkylenated Nonionic Surfactants
According to the invention, the expression “oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants” means nonionic surfactants that bear in their molecule one or more groups selected from the group consisting of the following groups: —CH2—CH2—O—, —CH2—CH2—CH2—O—, —CH2—CH(CH3)—O—, or mixtures thereof.
Among the alcohols that may be mentioned are α-diols, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated alkylphenols, having a fatty chain containing, for example, 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 1 to 50, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, oxyethylenated plant oils, polyoxyethylenated fatty amides having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycols, and polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitol containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
Oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and oxyethylenated with 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 10 EO). Among these, mention may be made more particularly of lauryl alcohol 2 EO, lauryl alcohol 3 EO, decyl alcohol 3 EO and decyl alcohol 5 EO.
The mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) preferably represent(s) from 2% to 40% approximately and more preferably from 4% to 20% approximately of the total weight of the dye composition, and preferably from 0.5% to 40% approximately and more preferably from 1% to 20% approximately of the total weight of the ready-to-use dye composition (comprising the oxidizing agent).
Preferably, these two types of nonionic surfactant are used in a mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant/oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant ratio ranging from 0,2 to 5, more particularly from 0,3 to 3, preferably from 0.5 to 2.
Oxidation Dyes
The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oxidation dye in hydrochloride or sulphate form.
The oxidation dyes that may be used according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of oxidation bases and/or couplers. Thus, at least one oxidation base and/or one coupler are in a hydrochloride or sulphate form.
The compositions according to the invention preferably contain at least one oxidation base.
The oxidation bases that may be used in the context of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of those conventionally used in oxidation dyeing, and among which mention may be made especially of ortho- and para-phenylenediamines, double bases, ortho- and para-aminophenols, the heterocyclic bases below, and also the addition salts thereof with an acid.
Mention may be made especially of:
(I) the para-phenylenediamines of formula (III) below, and the addition salts thereof with an acid:
in which:
Among the nitrogenous groups of formula (III) above, mention may be made especially of amino, mono(C1–C4)alkylamino, di(C1–C4)alkylamino, tri(C1–C4)alkylamino, monohydroxy(C1–C4)alkylamino, imidazolinium and ammonium radicals.
Among the para-phenylenediamines of formula (III) above, mention may be made more particularly of para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-bis(-hydroxyethyl)-2-methylaniline, 4-amino -N,N-bis(-hydroxyethyl)-2-chloroaniline, 2-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(,-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4′-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine and 2--hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methyl-1-N--hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine and N-(4-aminophenyl)-3-hydroxypyrrolidine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
Among the para-phenylenediamines of formula (VII) above, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(-hydroxy-ethyl)-para-phenylenediamine and 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid, are most particularly preferred.
(II) According to the invention, the term double bases means compounds containing at least two aromatic nuclei bearing amino and/or hydroxyl groups.
Among the double bases that can be used as oxidation bases in the dye compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of the compounds corresponding to formula (IV) below, and the addition salts thereof with an acid:
in which:
Among the nitrogenous groups of formula (IV) above, mention may especially be made of amino, mono(C1–C4)alkylamino, di(C1–C4)alkylamino, tri(C1–C4)alkylamino, monohydroxy(C1–C4)alkylamino, imidazolinium and ammonium radicals.
Among the double bases of formula (IV) above, mention may be made more particularly of N,N′-bis(-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)-1,3-diamino-2-propanol, N,N′-bis(-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-amino-phenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N′-bis(ethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-amino-3′-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,5-dioxaoctane, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
Among these double bases of formula (IV), N,N′-bis(-hydroxyethyl)-N,N′-bis(4′-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,5-dioxaoctane, or one of the addition salts thereof with an acid, are particularly preferred.
(III) The para-aminophenols corresponding to formula (V) below, and the addition salts thereof with an acid:
in which:
Among the para-aminophenols of formula (V) above, mention may be made more particularly of para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol and 4-amino-2-(-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
(IV) The ortho-aminophenols that can be used as oxidation bases in the context of the present invention are chosen especially from 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-1-hydroxy-5-methylbenzene, 2-amino-1-hydroxy-6-methylbenzene and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
(V) Among the heterocyclic bases that can be used as oxidation bases in the dye compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made more particularly of pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-(β-methoxyethyl)amino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the compounds described, for example, in German patent DE 2 359 399 or Japanese patents JP 88-169 571 and JP 91-10659 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives such as those mentioned in patent application FR-A-2 750 048 and among which mention may be made of pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; 2,5-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 2,7-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-7-ol; 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-5-ol; 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-7-ylamino)ethanol; 2-(7-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-3-ylamino)ethanol; 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(7-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidin-3-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol; 5,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine; 2,5,N7,N7-tetramethylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine and 3-amino-5-methyl-7-imidazolylpropylamino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine and the addition salts thereof and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
Among the pyrazole derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the compounds described in patents DE 3 843 892, DE 4 133 957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4′-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(-hydroxyethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2′-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
According to the present invention, the oxidation bases preferably represent from 0.0005% to 12% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition not comprising the oxidizing agent, and even more preferably from 0.005% to 8% by weight approximately relative to this weight.
The couplers that may be used in the dye composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in oxidation dye compositions, that is to say meta-aminophenols, meta-phenylenediamines and meta-diphenols, naphthols and heterocyclic couplers such as, for example, indole derivatives, indoline derivatives, sesamol and its derivatives, pyridine derivatives, pyrazolotriazole derivatives, pyrazolones, indazoles, benzimidazoles, benzothiazoles, benzoxazoles, 1,3-benzodioxoles and quinolines, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
These couplers are chosen more particularly from 2,4-diamino-1-(-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, sesamol, 1-amino-2-methoxy-4,5-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-β-hydroxyethylindole, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,6-dimethylpyrazolo[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
When they are present, these couplers preferably represent from 0.0001% to 10% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition not comprising the oxidizing agent, and even more preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight approximately.
In general, the addition salts with an acid of the oxidation bases and couplers are chosen especially from the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, tartrates, lactates and acetates.
The dye composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise one or more direct dyes, especially to modify the shades or to enrich them with glints. These direct dyes may especially be selected from the group consisting of neutral, cationic or anionic nitro dyes, azo dyes or anthraquinone dyes, conventionally used or those described especially in patent applications FR-2 782 450, 2 782 451, 2 782 452 and EP-1 025 834, in a weight proportion from about 0.001% to 20% and preferably from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.
The ready-to-use composition according to the invention may also comprise in the dye composition and/or the oxidizing composition agents for adjusting the rheology, such as fatty acid amides optionally oxyethylenated (coconut monoethanolamide or diethanolamide, oxyethylenated carboxylic acid alkyl ether monoethanolamide), cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, etc.), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar, etc.), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, etc.), crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid, and associative polymers as described below.
Associative Polymers that May be Used According to the Invention
Associative polymers are water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating together or with other molecules.
Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain.
The associative polymers according to the invention may be of anionic, cationic or amphoteric type, and preferably of nonionic or cationic type.
Their weight concentration in the dye composition can range from about 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition, and in the ready-to-use composition (comprising the oxidizing agent), from about 0.0025% to 10% of the total weight of the composition. More preferably, this amount ranges from about 0.1% to 5% by weight in the dye composition and from about 0.025% to 10% in the ready-to-use composition.
Associative Polymers of Anionic Type:
Among these, mention may be made of:
(I) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit consists of an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, the fatty-chain allyl ether unit of which corresponding to the monomer of formula (I) below:
CH2═CR′CH2OBnR (I)
in which R′ denotes H or CH3, B denotes an ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical selected from the group consisting of alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. A unit of formula (I) that is more particularly preferred is a unit in which R′ denotes H, n is equal to 10 and R denotes a stearyl (C18) radical.
Anionic associative polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479.
Among these anionic associative polymers that are particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or of methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether of formula (I), and from 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
Among the latter polymers, those most particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl ether (Steareth-10), in particular those sold by the company Allied Colloids under the names Salcare SC 80® and Salcare SC 90®, which are aqueous 30% emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of steareth-10 allyl ether (40/50/10).
(II) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of (C10–C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
Preferably, these polymers are selected from the group consisting of those in which the hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) below:
in which R1 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, that is to say acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and in which the hydrophobic unit of (C10–C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (III) below:
in which R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (that is to say acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units), R3 denoting a C10–C30 and preferably C12–C22 alkyl radical.
(C10–C30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.
Among the anionic associative polymers of this type that will be used more particularly are polymers formed from a monomer mixture comprising:
(i) essentially acrylic acid,
(ii) an ester of formula (III) described above in which R2 denotes H or CH3, R3 denoting an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms,
(iii) and a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
Among anionic associative polymers of this type that will be used more particularly are those consisting of from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C10–C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those consisting of from 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C10–C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.
Among the said above polymers, those most particularly preferred according to the present invention are the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1®, Pemulen TR2® and Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR1®, and the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Coatex SX®.
(III) maleic anhydride/C30–C38 α-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the product (maleic anhydride/C30–C38 α-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608® by the company Newphase Technologies.
(IV) acrylic terpolymers comprising:
Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of a carboxylic acid containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation and of a C1–C4 alcohol.
An example of a compound of this type which may be mentioned is Aculyn 22® sold by the company Rohm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/stearyl methacrylate oxyalkylenated terpolymer.
Associative Polymers of Cationic Type
Among these, mention may be made of:
(I) the cationic associative polyurethanes whose family has been described by the Applicant in French patent application No. 0 009 609; they may be represented by the general formula (Ia) below:
R—X—(P)n—[L—(Y)m]r—L′—(P′)p—X′—R′ (Ia)
in which:
In one preferred embodiment of these polyurethanes, the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R′ at the chain ends.
One preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) described above and in which:
Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:
The fact that n and p are 0 means that these polymers do not comprise units derived from a monomer containing an amine function, incorporated into the polymer during the polycondensation. The protonated amine functions of these polyurethanes result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions, at the chain end, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functions formed with alkylating agents containing a hydrophobic group, i.e. compounds of the type RQ or R′Q, in which R and R′ are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulphate, etc.
Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:
The number-average molecular mass of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500 000, in particular between 1000 and 400 000 and ideally between 1000 and 300 000.
The expression “hydrophobic group” means a radical or polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, which may contain one or more hetero atoms such as P, O, N or S, or a radical containing a perfluoro or silicone chain. When the hydrophobic group denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical, it comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound.
By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.
When X and/or X′ denote(s) a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and/or X′ may represent one of the following formulae:
in which:
The groups L, L′ and L″ represent a group of formula:
in which:
The groups P and P′ comprising an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulae:
in which:
As regards the meaning of Y, the term “hydrophilic group” means a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.
By way of example, when it is not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.
When it is a hydrophilic polymer, in accordance with one preferred embodiment, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulphonated polyesters, sulphonated polyamides or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).
The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds with functions containing labile hydrogen. The functions containing labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively. The term “polyurethanes” in the present invention encompasses these three types of polymer, namely polyurethanes per se, polyureas and polythioureas, and also copolymers thereof.
A first type of compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound comprising at least one unit containing an amine function. This compound may be multifunctional, but the compound is preferentially difunctional, that is to say that, according to one preferential embodiment, this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms borne, for example, by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function. A mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low may also be used.
As mentioned above, this compound may comprise more than one unit containing an amine function. In this case, it is a polymer bearing a repetition of the unit containing an amine function.
Compounds of this type may be represented by one of the following formulae:
HZ—(P)n—ZH
or
HZ—(P′)p—ZH
in which Z, P, P′, n and p are as defined above.
Examples of compounds containing an amine function that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N-sulphoethyldiethanolamine.
The second compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula:
O═C═N—R4—N═C═O
in which R4 is as defined above.
By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate.
A third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (Ia).
This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and of a function containing a labile hydrogen, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.
By way of example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol such as, in particular, stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. When this compound comprises a polymeric chain, it may be, for example, -hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.
The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) may also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound comprising at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced via the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R′Q, in which R and R′ are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulphate, etc.
The cationic associative polyurethane may also comprise a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound involved in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.
The functions containing a labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends with one of these functions containing a labile hydrogen.
By way of example, when it is not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.
When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulphonated polyesters and sulphonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and especially a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).
The hydrophilic group termed Y in formula (Ia) is optional. Specifically, the units containing a quaternary amine or protonated function may suffice to provide the solubility or water-dispersibility required for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution. Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes comprising such a group are, however, preferred.
(II) quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates containing non-cyclic amino side groups.
The quaternized cellulose derivatives are in particular:
The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8–C30 fatty chains that may be mentioned include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B® (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Croda.
Amphoteric Associative Polymers
These are preferably selected from the group consisting of polymers comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, the ones that are preferred are those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mol % of monomer comprising a fatty chain, preferably 1.5 to 15 mol % and even more particularly 1.5 to 6 mol %, relative to the total number of moles of monomers.
The amphoteric associative polymers that are preferred according to the invention comprise, or are prepared by copolymerizing:
1) at least one monomer of formula (Ia) or (Ib):
in which R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R3, R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms,
2) at least one monomer of formula (II)
R6—CH═CR7—COOH (II)
in which R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; and
3) at least one monomer of formula (III):
R6—CH═CR7—COXR8 (III)
in which R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atom and R8 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; at least one of the monomers of formula (Ia), (Ib) or (III) comprising at least one fatty chain.
The monomers of formulae (Ia) and (Ib) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of the group consisting of:
More particularly, the monomer of formula (Ia) is selected from the group consisting of acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
The monomers of formula (II) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (II) is acrylic acid.
The monomers of formula (III) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of the group consisting of C12–C22 and more particularly C16–C18 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.
The monomers constituting the fatty-chain amphoteric polymers of the invention are preferably already neutralized and/or quaternized.
The ratio of the number of cationic charges/anionic charges is preferably equal to about 1.
The amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention preferably comprise from 1 mol % to 10 mol % of the monomer comprising a fatty chain (monomer of formula (Ia), (Ib) or (III)), and preferably from 1.5 mol % to 6 mol %.
The weight-average molecular weights of the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention may range from 500 to 50 000 000 and are preferably between 10 000 and 5 000 000.
The amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular such as C1–C4 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.
Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98/44012.
Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, the ones that are preferred are acrylic acid/(meth)acrylamidopropyl-trimethylammonium chloride/stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.
Associative Polymers of Nonionic Type
According to the invention, these are preferably chosen from:
(1) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples that may be mentioned include:
Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains, or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be included. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
The polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. Hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example: multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or starburst polymers.
The nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1 000 oxyethylene groups. The nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.
By extension, also included among the nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
As examples of nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of Rheolate 205® containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or the Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®.
Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210® containing a C12-14 alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212® containing a C18 alkyl chain, from Akzo.
The product DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.
It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox. The products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas may also be used.
The polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen—Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380.389 (1993).
Even more particularly, according to the invention, it is preferred to use a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
Such polyurethane polyethers are sold especially by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
The ready-to-use composition according to the invention may also comprise in the dye composition and/or the oxidizing composition at least one cationic or amphoteric polymer.
Cationic Polymers
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cationic polymer” denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that may be ionized into cationic groups.
The cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, i.e. especially those described in patent application EP-A-337 354 and in French patents FR-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.
The cationic polymers that are preferred are selected from the group consisting of those containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups, which may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly attached thereto.
The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5×106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3×106 approximately.
Among the cationic polymers that may be mentioned more particularly are polymers of the polyamine, polyamino amide and polyquaternary ammonium type.
These are known products. They are described in particular in French patents Nos 2 505 348 and 2 542 997. Among the said polymers, mention may be made of:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of formula (V), (VI), (VII) or (VIII) below:
in which:
The polymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be selected from the group consisting of the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1–C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Thus, among these polymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names “Celquat® L 200” and “Celquat® H 100” by the company National Starch.
(4) The cationic polysaccharides described more particularly in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Guar gums modified with a salt (e.g. chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used, for example.
Such products are sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar® C13 S, Jaguar® C 15, Jaguar® C 17 or Jaguar® C162 by the company Meyhall.
(5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulphur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are described, in particular, in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.
(6) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized. Such polymers are described, in particular, in French patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508.
(7) The polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 583 363.
Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name “Cartaretine® F, F4 or F8” by the company Sandoz.
(8) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the polyamino amide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Such polymers are described in particular in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name “Hercosett® 57” by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name “PD 170®R” or “Delsette® 101” by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(9) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (IX) or (X):
in which formulae k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R7 and R8, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower C1–C4 amidoalkyl group, or R7 and R8 can denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R7 and R8, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; Y− is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate or phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French patent 2 080 759 and in its Certificate of Addition 2 190 406.
Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name “Merquat® 100” by the company Calgon (and its homologues of low weight-average molecular mass) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, sold under the name “Merquat® 550”.
(10) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing repeating units corresponding to the formula:
in which formula (XI):
Preferably, X− is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
These polymers generally have a number-average molecular mass of between 1000 and 100 000.
Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents 2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.
It is more particularly possible to use polymers that consist of repeating units corresponding to the following formula (XII):
in which R10, R11, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X− is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.
(11) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers consisting of repeating units of formula (XIII):
in which p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6 approximately, D may be nothing or may represent a group —(CH2)r—CO— in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7,
Such polymers may be prepared according to the processes described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,157,388, 4,702,906 and 4,719,282. They are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324.
Among these products, mention may be made, for example, of “Mirapol® A 15”, “Mirapol® AD1”, “Mirapol® AZ1” and “Mirapol® 175” sold by the company Miranol.
(12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
(13) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Henkel, which is given under the reference name “Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine” in the CTFA dictionary.
(14) Crosslinked methacryloyloxy(C1–C4)alkyltri(C1–C4)alkylammonium salt polymers such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil can be used more particularly. This dispersion is sold under the name “Salcare® SC 92” by the company Allied Colloids. A crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used. These dispersions are sold under the names “Salcare® SC 95” and “Salcare® SC 96” by the company Allied Colloids.
Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
Among all the cationic polymers which may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of families (1), (9), (10), (11), (12) and (14) and even more preferably the polymers consisting of repeating units of formulae (W) and (U) below:
and in particular those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is between 9500 and 9900;
and in particular those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is about 1200.
The concentration of cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 5% and even more preferably from 0.1% to 3%.
Amphoteric Polymers
The amphoteric polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of polymers comprising units K and M randomly distributed in the polymer chain, in which K denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and M denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups, or alternatively K and M may denote groups derived from zwitterionic carboxybetaine or sulphobetaine monomers; K and M may also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulphonic group linked via a hydrocarbon-based radical, or alternatively K and M form part of a chain of a polymer containing an α,β-dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
The amphoteric polymers corresponding to the above definition that are more particularly preferred are selected from the group consisting of the following polymers:
(1) polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, -chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and -acrylamide. Such compounds are described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,836,537.
Mention may also be made of the sodium acrylate/acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer sold under the name Polyquart® KE 3033 by the company Henkel.
The vinyl compound may also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. The copolymers of acrylic acid and of the latter monomer are sold under the names Merquat® 280, Merquatg 295 and Merquat® Plus 3330 by the company Calgon.
(2) Polymers containing units derived from:
The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are groups in which the alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
The acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N′-dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
The copolymers whose CTFA (4th edition, 1991) name is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer such as the products sold under the name Amphomer® or Lovocryl® 47 by the company National Starch are particularly used.
(3) Crosslinked and alkylated polyamino amides partially or totally derived from polyamino amides of general formula:CO—R19—CO—Z
(XIV)
in which R19 represents a divalent radical derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, a mono- or dicarboxylic aliphatic acid containing an ethylenic double bond, an ester of a lower alkanol, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, of these acids or a radical derived from the addition of any one of the said acids to a bis(primary) or bis(secondary) amine, and Z denotes a bis(primary), mono- or bis(secondary) polyalkylene-polyamine radical and preferably represents:
where x=2 and p=2 or 3, or alternatively x=3 and p=2
The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably selected from the group consisting of acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid and 2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid and acids containing an ethylenic double bond such as, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid.
The alkane sultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone, and the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.
(4) Polymers containing zwitterionic units of formula:
in which R20 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3, R21 and R22 represent a hydrogen atom, methyl, ethyl or propyl, R23 and R24 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R23 and R24 does not exceed 10.
The polymers comprising such units can also contain units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
By way of example, mention may be made of the copolymer of methyl methacrylate/dimethyl carboxymethylammonio ethyl methacrylate such as the product sold under the name Diaformer® Z301 by the company Sandoz.
(5) Polymers derived from chitosan containing monomer units corresponding to formulae (XVII), (XVIII) and (XIX) below:
the unit (XVII) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (XVIII) in proportions of between 5 and 50% and the unit (XIX) in proportions of between 30 and 90%, it being understood that, in this unit (XIX), R25 represents a radical of formula:
in which q denotes zero or 1;
in which R29 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O, CH3CH2O or phenyl radical, R30 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl, R31 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl, R32 denotes a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl or a radical corresponding to the formula: —R33—N(R31)2, R33 representing a —CH2—CH2—, —CH2—CH2—CH2— or —CH2—CH(CH3)— group, R31, having the meanings mentioned above,
and X denotes the symbol E or E′, E or E′, which may be identical or different, denotes a divalent radical which is an alkylene radical with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with hydroxyl groups and which can contain, in addition to the oxygen, nitrogen and sulphur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulphur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulphoxide, sulphone, sulphonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups;
and X denotes the symbol E or E′ and at least once E′; E having the meaning given above and E′ being a divalent radical which is an alkylene radical with a straight or branched chain having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more hydroxyl radicals and containing one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted with an alkyl chain which is optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily containing one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.
(9) (C1–C5)alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N,N-dimethylamino-propylamine or by semiesterification with an N,N-dialkanolamine. These copolymers can also contain other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.
The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to the invention are those of family (1).
According to the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) may represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Medium
The medium, for the dye composition, which is suitable for dyeing is preferably an aqueous medium consisting of water possibly advantageously comprising cosmetically acceptable organic solvents including, more particularly, alcohols or diols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexyleneglycol (2-methyl 2,4-pentanediol), neopentylglycol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. The solvents may then be present, each, in concentrations of between about 0.5% and 20% and preferably between about 2% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The dye composition according to the invention may also comprise unsaturated fatty alcohols including in particular oleyl alcohol in a proportion ranging from 0.5% to 15%, preferably from approximately 1% to 10%, of the total weight of the dye composition.
Other Adjuvants
The dye composition according to the invention may also contain an effective amount of other agents, known previously elsewhere in oxidation dyeing, such as various common adjuvants, for instance sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, UV screening agents, waxes, volatile or non-volatile, cyclic or linear or branched silicones, which are optionally organomodified (in particular with amine groups), preserving agents, ceramides, pseudoceramides, plant, mineral or synthetic oils, vitamins or provitamins, for instance panthenol, opacifiers, etc.
The said composition may also contain reducing agents or antioxidants. These agents may be chosen in particular from sodium sulphite, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, sodium bisulphite, dehydroascorbic acid, hydroquinone, 2-methylhydroquinone, tert-butylhydroquinone and homogentisic acid, and, in this case, they are generally present in amounts ranging from about 0.05% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional compound(s) mentioned above such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the ready-to-use composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
Oxidizing Agent
In the oxidizing composition, the oxidizing agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, and persalts such as perborates and persulphates. It is particularly preferred to use hydrogen peroxide. This oxidizing agent advantageously consists of an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution whose titre may range, more particularly, from about 1 to 40 volumes and even more preferably from about 5 to 40 volumes.
Oxidizing agents that may also be used are one or more redox enzymes such as laccases, peroxidases and 2-electron oxidoreductases (such as uricase), where appropriate in the presence of their respective donor or co-factor.
The pH of the ready-to-use composition applied to the keratin fibres [composition resulting from mixing together the dye composition and the oxidizing composition] is generally between 3 and 12, limits included. It is preferably between 8.5 and 11, limits included, and may be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying or basifying agents that are well known in the prior art in the dyeing of keratin fibres.
Among the basifying agents which may be mentioned, for example, are aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine and derivatives thereof, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated hydroxyalkylamines and ethylenediamines, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the compounds of the following formula:
in which R is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C1–C4 alkyl radical; R38, R39, R40 and R41, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1–C4 alkyl radical or a C1–C4 hydroxyalkyl radical.
The acidifying agents are conventionally, for example, mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, or sulphonic acids.
The dyeing process according to the invention preferably consists in applying the ready-to-use composition, prepared extemporaneously at the time of use from the dye composition and the oxidizing composition described above, to wet or dry keratin fibres, and in leaving the composition to act for an exposure time preferably ranging from 1 to 60 minutes approximately, and more preferably from 10 to 45 minutes approximately, in rinsing the fibres and then in optionally washing them with shampoo, then rinsing them again and drying them.
A concrete example illustrating the invention is given below without, however, being limiting in nature.
The dye composition below was prepared:
The dye composition was mixed, at the time of use, in a plastic bowl and for 2 minutes, with an oxidizing composition having an aqueous hydrogen peroxide titre of 20 volumes, at a rate of 1 part of dye composition per 1.5 parts of oxidizing composition.
The mixture obtained was applied to locks of hair containing 90% white hairs and was left to act for 30 minutes.
The locks were then rinsed with water, washed with shampoo, rinsed again with water and then dried and disentangled.
A black shade was thus obtained.
On a préparé la composition de teinture suivante:
La composition colorante a été mélangée, au moment de l'emploi, dans un bol en plastique et pendant 2 minutes, à une composition oxydante titrant 20 volumes en eau oxygénée à raison de 1 partie de composition colorante pour 1.5 parties de composition oxydante.
On a appliqué le mélange obtenu sur des mèches de cheveux à 90% de blancs et on a laissé poser 30 minutes.
On a ensuite rincé les mèches à l'eau, on les a lavées au shampooing, à nouveau rincées à l'eau, puis séchées et démêlées.
On a obtenu alors une nuance noire.
All references, documents, texts, patents, applications, product literature, articles, etc. mentioned above are incorporated by reference herein, as is French patent application 0116742 filed Dec. 21, 2001, priority to which is hereby claimed. Where a numeric range or limit is described herein, all values and subranges falling therewithin are expressly included as if specifically written out.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 01 16742 | Dec 2001 | FR | national |
| Number | Name | Date | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4774075 | Lang et al. | Sep 1988 | A |
| 6254647 | Froehling | Jul 2001 | B1 |
| 6261325 | de la Mettrie et al. | Jul 2001 | B1 |
| 6436151 | Cottard et al. | Aug 2002 | B1 |
| 20010023514 | Cottard et al. | Sep 2001 | A1 |
| 20010023515 | Cottard et al. | Sep 2001 | A1 |
| Number | Date | Country |
|---|---|---|
| 196 13 567 | Oct 1997 | DE |
| 199 59 320 | Jun 2001 | DE |
| 2 129 447 | May 1984 | GB |
| 2001206828 | Jul 2001 | JP |
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20030229948 A1 | Dec 2003 | US |
