Patent Application
20110197909
The present invention concerns a composition for the permanent shaping of human hair used both for the permanent waving of human hair with an excellent waving effect as well as for the straightening of either naturally or chemically curled hair comprising a diamide compound and at least one cationic polymer.
It is generally known that permanent waving is carried out in two steps, the reductive splitting of the cysteine disulfide bonds in the hair by a reducing agent, and the subsequent neutralization by application of an oxidizing agent, whereby the cysteine disulfide bonds are restored.
The reducing agent still most frequently used today is thioglycolic acid, also in form of the salts thereof, in particular its ammonium salt, although numerous other thio compounds have been proposed for this purpose, which, however, mostly did not succeed.
The compositions containing thioglycolates are customarily applied at a pH-value between 7 and 10, in particular 8.5 and 9.5.
Such compositions vary in their waving and/or straightening performance and, therefore, there is still need for further improvement.
The present invention starts from the task of providing a composition for the permanent shaping of human hair with excellent waving and straightening performance. Hair waved or straightened with composition disclosed herein looks and feels natural upon touching by hand. For waved hair it is especially important that the hair has excellent elasticity and bounce.
It has surprisingly been observed that a permanent shaping composition based on at least one reducing agent and further comprising at least one compound comprising 2 amide (diamide) groups and at least one cationic polymer has excellent straightening and waving effects and additionally hair either straightened or waved has improved elasticity, feels natural and softer upon touching. The effects are found to be synergistic.
Accordingly, the first object of the present invention is a composition for permanent shaping hair based on at least one reducing agent and further comprising at least one compound comprising at least two amide (diamide) groups in its molecule and at least one cationic polymer.
Diamide compounds have been known in the art. EP 1362573 A1 discloses compositions comprising a diamide compound and alkalizing agent at a pH between 12 and 14 for hair straightening. The documents is silent on the use of reducing agents.
U.S. Pat. No. 6,685,953 is on external preparations comprising a diamide compound. EP 1366753 A2 is on hair dye compositions comprising diamide compound. Reducing agent, sodium sulphite, is used to stabilize oxidative dye precursors. Nothing is disclosed on permanent shaping of hair.
EP 1362574 A1 discloses permanent shaping compositions based on at least one reducing agent and comprising a diamide compound. The document is silent on cationic polymers.
Use of cationic polymers in permanent shaping compositions has been known from numerous scientific and/or patent publications such as EP 797 861 A1, EP 1797861 A1 and DE 103 60 688 A1. None of them include a hint to combine cationic polymer with a diamide compound.
Permanent shaping compositions comprise at least one diamide compound. Preferred diamide compounds are according to the general structure
wherein R1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 1 to 12 C atoms which may be substituted with hydroxy and/or alkoxy groups, preferably R1 is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 1 to 12 C atoms which may be substituted by 1 to 3 substituents selected from a hydroxy group and C1 to C6 alkoxy group, more preferably R1 is a unsubstituted alkyl group with 1 to 12 C atoms, and alkyl group with 2 to 12 C atoms substituted by one or two hydroxyl groups, by one alkoxy group with 1 to 6 C atoms or by one hydroxyl and one alkoxy group with 2 to 6 C atoms, R2 is linear or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 5 C atoms, preferably linear or branched alkyl chain with 2 to 5 C atoms and more preferably an alkyl chain with 2 to 3 C atoms, and R3 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 1 to 22 C atoms, preferably linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 11 to 22 C atoms.
Preferred individual diamide compounds are the ones according to the formula A to G.
Particularly preferred diamide compound is the compound F which is bis (methoxypropylamido) isodocosane and commercially available from Kao Corporation—Japan.
Concentration of diamide compounds in the compositions of the present invention is in the range of 0.001 to 5%, preferably 0.002 to 3% more preferably 0.005 to 2% and most preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight calculated to total composition.
The permanent shaping compositions according to the invention comprise at least one reducing agent at a concentration of at least 0.5% by weight calculated to total composition. Preferred are thioglycolic acid and thiolactic acid as well as the salts thereof, in particular the ammonium and ethanolamine salts. Further useful thio compounds are in particular cysteine or the hydrochloride thereof, homocysteine, cysteamine, N-acetyl cysteine, thioglycerol, ethanediol monothioglycolate, 1.2-propyleneglycol monothioglycolate (see also WO-A 93/1791), 1-3-propanediol monothioglycolate or the isomer mixture resulting therefrom, 1.3-butanediol and 1.4-butanediol monothioglycolate and the isomer mixtures therefrom, polyethylene glycol, such as di-, tri- and tetraethyleneglycol monothioglycolates, glycerol monothiolactate and further thio acids and the esters thereof, as well as mixtures thereof.
The use of inorganic reducing sulfur compounds such as sodium hydrogen sulfite is basically also possible.
The total reduction agent content in the compositions according to the invention customarily amounts from 0.5 to 15%, preferably 1.0 to 12.5%, more preferably 1.5 to 12.5%, most preferably 2.0 to 12.5% by weight, calculated to total composition as free thioglycolic acid as reference substance.
Permanent shaping compositions of the present invention comprise at least one cationic polymer. Basically suitable are all cationic polymers listed under the generic name “Polyquaternium” in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary. Preferred are Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 4, Polyquaternium 5, Polyquaternium 6, Polyquaternium 7, Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium 16, Polyquaternium 22; Polyquaternium 28, Polyquaternium 39, and Polyquaternium-87.
The cationic polymers also include the quaternized products of graft polymers from organopolysiloxanes and polyethyl oxazolines described in EP-A 524 612 and EP-A 640 643. Such polymer is known with its CTFA name Polysilicone-9.
It should be noted that composition can comprise more than one cationic polymer and especially mixture of quaternized products of graft polymers from organopolysiloxanes and polyethyl oxazolines such as Polysilicone-9 and at least one compound known with the general CTFA name Polyquaternium.
Concentration of total cationic polymer is in the range from of 0.01 to 5%, preferably 0.01 to 3% more preferably 0.02 to 2% and most preferably 0.05 to 1% by weight calculated to total composition.
The permanent shaping compositions containing reducing agents can, if necessary, comprise alkalizing agents. Their quantity is dependent on the reducing agent and the desired pH-value of the composition. Reducing agent compositions preferably contain 0.1% to 5%, in particular 0.5% to 2.5% by weight thereof, calculated to the total composition. Alkalizing agents preferred within the scope of the invention are ammonium carbamate, ammonia and/or ammonium(bi)carbonate, monoethanolamine and triethanolamine. It is desirable to adjust the pH-value between about 6.5 and 10.5, preferably about 7 to 9.5.
The permanent shaping compositions according to the invention are suited for use both for the permanent waving, i.e. curling of human hair and for the straightening, i.e. smoothing thereof.
The viscosity best suited for the permanent shaping compositions according to the invention proved to be in the range of 1 to 10,000 mPa·s, preferably about 1 to about 5,000 mPa·s, measured at 20° C. in a Brookfield viscosimeter (no. 5 spindle), whereas the viscosity suited for the straightening compositions is preferably higher in a range up to 50,000 mPa·s, preferably up to 30,000 mPa·s measured at 20° C. in a Brookfield viscosimeter (no. 5 spindle).
The viscosity is adjusted by addition of the appropriate amounts of thickening agents known per se, such as cellulose derivatives. Thickening may as well be realized by formulating a composition in form of an emulsion with the use of C10-C22-fatty alcohols, in mixture with long mono alkyl chain quaternary ammonium surfactants.
The permanent shaping compositions according to the present invention preferably comprise surfactants selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric ones. Their proportion ranges from 0.05% to 10%, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight, calculated to total composition.
Suitable anionic surfactants are especially the known alkyl ether sulfates and carboxylic acids, in particular in form of their alkali salts, as well as protein fatty acid condensates.
Suitable nonionic surfactants, which are preferred within the scope of the invention, are in particular C8-C18-fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid alkanolamides, amineoxides, and especially C8-C18-alkyl polyglucosides.
Also possible is the incorporation of amphoteric surfactants, such as the known alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, and alkyl amphoacetates.
Further according to a further preferred embodiment, permanent shaping compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant according to general formula
where R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 8-24 C atoms or
R8CONH(CH2)n
where R8 is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 0-4 or
R9COO(CH2)n
where R9 is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 0-4, and
R5 is a hydrogen, saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 1-24 C atoms or
R8CONH(CH2)n
where R8 is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 0-4 or
R9COO(CH2)n
where R9 is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 0-4,
and R6 and R7 are independent from each other H or lower alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl group, and X is chloride, bromide or methosulfate.
Concentration of cationic surfactant is in the range from 0.05% to 5%, preferably 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, calculated to total composition.
Suitable long-chain quaternary ammonium compounds are in particular cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, dimethyl dicetyl ammonium chloride, trimethyl cetyl ammonium bromide chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, dimethyl stearyl benzyl ammonium chloride, benzyl tetradecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dimethyl dihydrogenated tallow ammonium chloride, lauryl pyridinium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, lauryl trimethyl ammonium chloride, tris-(oligooxyethyl) alkyl ammonium phosphate, cetyl pyridinium chloride, etc.
One or more aminated silicones may be used in the compositions of the present invention. Suitable ones are any silicone compound having at least one amine group in its molecule. Well know and widely used example is amodimethicone available as an emulsion from various suppliers either as a cationic emulsion or as a non-ionic emulsion. Advantageously both types are suitable. Concentration varies in the range of 0.05 to 2.5% by weight calculated to total composition.
Any non-ionic surfactant is in principal suitable as emulsifier in aminated silicone emulsion. Suitable ones are those of alkyl polyglucosides and especially decyl or lauryl polyglucosides known with the trade name Plantacare from Cognis and those of ethoxylated fatty alcohol with number of ethoxylation degree between 10 to 50 and preferably around 20 to 30. Examples to preferred ethoxylated fatty alcohols are Laureth-20, Steareth-20, Myreth-20, Ceteareth-20, Laureth-30, Steareth-30, Myreth-30, Ceteareth-30, etc.
Among the non-ionic surfactants the most preferred non-ionic surfactants are the ones according to formula
CH2(CH2)12(OCH2CH2)nOH
wherein n is a number between 2 and 20. Preferred ones have an n between 4 and 10. Such are known with the CTFA name Trideceth and with a number defining the number of ethoxy groups.
In the most preferred embodiment of the present invention, suitable aminated silicone is amodimethicone and emulsified with Trideceth-5 and Trideceth-10. Such raw material is commercially available under the trade name Belsil ADM 8020 VP from Wacker Chemie.
Permanent shaping compositions of present invention can comprise additionally at least one organic solvent. Suitable organic solvents are 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, mono and dialcohols or the ethers thereof, in particular mono-C1-C3-alkyl ether, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropyl alcohol, 1-methoxypropanol, 1-ethoxypropanol and ethoxydiglycol, diols and their esters 1,3- and 1,4-butanediol, diethyleneglycol and the monomethyl and monoethyl ether thereof, dipropylene glycol and the monomethyl and monoethyl ether thereof, glycerol, hexanetriol, ethyl carbitol, benzyl alcohol, benzyloxy ethanol, propylene carbonate, N-alkyl pyrrolidone, and urea or their mixture preferably in an amount from about 0.1% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total composition.
Permanent shaping composition of the present invention can comprise further ceramide type of compound such as cetyl-PG-hydroxyethylpalmitamide.
Further optional ingredient are sterols, especially the phytosterols as preferred hair restructuring agents. Especially preferred ones are of plant origin for example ergosterol, sitosterol, stigmasterol, fucosterol, brassicasterol, fungisterol, campesterol, zymosterol, ascosterol, cerevisterol, episterol, faecosterol, spinasterol. Among those phytosterols, the ones found in “Avocadin” which is the unsaponified fraction of the avocado oil is more preferred.
Optionally fatty acids of C10 to C22 may be incorporated into the compositions of the present invention at a concentration of preferably 0.01 to 2.5% by weight calculated to total composition.
Additionally, one or more natural oil component may be incorporated into the compositions of the present invention. Suitable are such as olive oil, almond oil, avocado oil, wheatgerm oil, ricinus oil or their mixture. Concentration of these natural oil ingredients should be 0.01 to 2.5%, preferably 0.01 to 1%, more preferably 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, calculated to total composition.
Further additional compounds may be present in the permanent shaping compositions of the present invention is ubichinone of the formula
where n is a number between 1 and 10. Preferred ubichinones are the ones where n is a number between 6 and 10 and especially preferred is Ubichinone 50 where n is 10, also known as Coenzyme Q10. Concentration ubichinone of the above formula in permanent shaping compositions of the present invention is from 0.0001 to 1%, preferably from 0.0002 to 0.75%, more preferably from 0.0002 to 0.5% and most preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight, calculated to total composition.
The compositions used according to the invention can naturally comprise all the substances customarily found in permanent shaping compositions, a list of which will not be given here, and are preferably present as solutions, gels with a higher or lower viscosity, emulsions or creams. They can be single-phase products or compositions packed into separate packaging which are united upon application, as they are disclosed, for example, in DE-C 43 04 828.
In order to avoid repetition, reference is here made to the state of the art as it is described, for example, in “Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry”, Vol. A12 (1986), pages 588 to 591, and in particular to the monography of K. Schrader, “Grundlagen and Rezepturen der Kosmetika”, 2nd. Ed. (1989, Hüthig Buchverlag) pages 823 to 840, as well as the article by D. Hollenberg et. al. in “Seifen-Öle-Fette-Wachse”, 117 (1991), pages 81 to 87.
Composition of the present invention is used in a process for permanent waving wherein hair is washed or shampooed first and wound on the curlers, subsequently a reducing composition comprising at least one reducing agent, at least one diamide compound and at least one cationic polymer is applied onto hair and after 1 to 45 min, preferably 1 to 30 min of processing time, depending on the hair strength, rinsed off from hair with tap water and an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate at a concentration of 0.5 to 10% by weight calculated to total of oxidizing composition, is applied onto hair and left on the hair 1 to 20 min and rinsed off and curlers are removed from hair. In cases where additional conditioning composition is required this may as well be applied after finishing the process as described above.
In another process as described above the curlers are removed after rinsing off the reducing agent and before applying the oxidizing agent.
Further in another process, after rinsing off the reducing agent from hair, an intermediate treatment composition is applied onto hair and without rinsing off, but after removing the excess amount of intermediate treatment with a towel, oxidizing composition is applied and at the end of the processing they are rinsed off from hair and curlers are removed from hair.
It has further been found out that the use of diamide compound and cationic polymer in the intermediate treatment composition improves the permanent shaping of hair as well in terms of curl appearance and natural look and feel of hair. Therefore, in another preferred form of the present invention, permanent shaping of hair is carried out with a process wherein hair is washed or shampooed first and subsequently a composition comprising reducing agent, at least one diamide compound and at least one cationic polymer is applied onto hair and after 1 to 45 min, preferably 1 to 30 min of processing time, depending on the hair strength, rinsed off from hair with tap water and an intermediate treatment composition comprising at least one diamide compound and at least one cationic polymer is applied and without rinsing off an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate at a concentration of 0.5 to 10% by weight calculated to total of oxidizing composition, is applied onto hair and left on the hair 1 to 20 min and rinsed off. In cases where additional conditioning composition is required this may as well be applied after finishing the above process. In case of permanent waving hair in the above process curlers are put onto hair before application of reducing composition and taken off from hair before application of oxidizing composition or after application and processing of the oxidizing composition.
The intermediate treatment composition has a pH value between 2.5 to 6, preferably 3 to 5.5 and most preferably 3 to 5.
A straightening process may also be carried out in a different process wherein hair is washed and/or shampooed and dried and reducing composition comprising at least one reducing compound and at least one diamide compound and at least one cationic polymer is applied onto dry hair and processed for 5 to 60 min, preferably 5 to 45 min and rinsed off with water and dried and the dry hair physically straighten with hot iron at a temperature of 130 to 210° C. and subsequently an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate at a concentration of 0.5 to 10% by weight calculated to total of oxidizing composition, is applied onto hair and left on the hair 1 to 20 min and rinsed off.
Present invention is also on a kit for permanent shaping hair which comprises a first product containing a composition comprising at least one reducing compound, at least one diamide compound and at least one cationic polymer and a second product containing a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and optionally a third product comprising at least one diamide compound and at least one cationic polymer.
The following examples are to illustrate the invention, but not to limit it.
With this composition the hair was permanently waved. First the above composition was applied and processed for about 15 minutes, rinsed and neutralized for about 8 minutes with a customary 2.5% H202 composition. Homogeneous wave appearance was obtained. Exclusion of diamide compound resulted in less homogeneous perm appearance.
Two comparative compositions were prepared comprising either diamide compound or cationic polymer at concentration twice of the above compositions in order to keep the total concentration constant. Hair was waved according to the above described process. It was observed that the composition according to the invention resulted in far better waves which were homogeneous and had improved elasticity and especially hair felt softer upon touching.
With this composition the hair was permanently waved. First the above composition was applied and processed for about 15 minutes, rinsed and neutralized for about 8 minutes with a customary 2.5% H202 composition. Homogeneous wave appearance was obtained. Exclusion of diamide compound and polyqauternium-16 resulted in less homogeneous perm appearance.
The permanent wave achieved with this composition was similar to the one obtained with the composition according to Example 1.
Exclusion of the diamide compound and polyquaternium-6 led to waves with substantially weaker contours.
The permanent wave achieved with this composition was similar to the one obtained with the composition according to Example 1.
Exclusion of the diamide compound and polysilicone-9 led to substantially weaker waves.
A permanent waving product consisting of two Compositions A and B, filled into a two-chamber packaging the chambers of which were kept separate until application, was prepared by destruction of the separating wall and applied onto human hair rolled onto curlers. The hair was rinsed after about fifteen minutes processing and neutralized for about five minutes with a 2.5% H2O2 neutralizer composition, rinsed again, shampooed and dried.
An expressive, even, intensive permanent wave was obtained.
An identical treatment which had no diamide compound and Polyquaternium-87 showed a visibly inferior wave.
After mixing of both Compositions a ready-to-use product with a pH-value of 7.4 was obtained.
A permanent waving product filled into a two-chamber package was prepared in analogy to Example 4:
A product with a pH-value of 7.4 was obtained by mixing of the Compositions immediately prior to application. After application onto dyed hair as described in Example 3, this mixture resulted in an expressive permanent wave, which had not effect whatever on the color gloss and color intensity.
The above composition had a pH of 4.10.
This composition constitutes an effecting smoothing composition for kinky hair.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 08018290.0 | Oct 2008 | EP | regional |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind | 371c Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP09/07497 | 10/20/2009 | WO | 00 | 4/13/2011 |
