Patent Application
20050208007
The present invention relates to a reducing cosmetic composition for the first step of a process to permanently reshape the hair, comprising at least one carboxydithiol as a reducing agent. It also relates to a method for permanently reshaping the hair, which uses these carboxydithiols.
The most usual art to obtain a permanent reshaping of the hair consists, in a first step, in opening the keratin disulfide bonds (cystine) with a composition comprising a reducing agent, and preferably after rinsing the hair, in reforming in a second step said disulfide bonds by applying to the hair which has been placed beforehand under tension with curlers or equivalent, or set in form or straightened by other means, an oxidizing composition also called fixing solution, so as to give the desired form to the hair. This method enables indifferently either the waving of the hair, or the decurling, the backcombing or the straightening thereof.
Reducing compositions usually used during the first step of a permanent waving operation comprise sulfites, bisulfites, and preferably thiols, as reducing agents. Among these latest, those traditionally used are thioglycolic acid, cysteamine, thiolactic acid, cysteine and glycerol monothioglycolate. Thioglycolic acid is particularly effective to reduce keratin disulfide bonds at alkaline pH, especially as ammonium thioglycolate, and represents the product which is the most often used in permanent waving. Nevertheless, it has been noted that thioglycolic acid had to be used in sufficiently basic medium (practically at pH 8.5 or above) to obtain a strong enough curling. As a drawback, the thioglycolic acid-alkaline pH combination, not only has an unpleasant odor, which has to be overcame by the use of fragrances that are more or less effective to mask bad odors, but causes damage to the hair fibre as well.
Sulfites and bisulfites have been used prior to thiols in general and to thioglycolic acid in particular. Unlike thiols, they are used at acidic pH, generally between 4 and 6. Nevertheless, the intensity of curling obtained is much lower and is still far from being satisfactory.
Cysteine produces a much weaker odor than thioglycolic acid does, but the curling degree obtained is also much lower and very unsatisfactory. Moreover, cysteine has to be used at very alkaline pH.
Glycerol monothioglycolate also has a very unpleasant odor. By contrast, it is used at pH close to neutrality, but its performance is appreciably lower than thioglycolic acid.
Cysteamine may be used on a broader pH range. It is almost as much effective as thioglycolic acid, but causes also the hair fibre to degrade significantly.
Many different studies have been conducted to compensate for the drawbacks of these reducing agents and it has been proposed to that end to use new reducing compounds or systems. Nevertheless, very few dithiols have been proposed. Two dithiols had been very intensively studied in the past i.e. dithiothreitol DTT and 2,5-dimercaptoadipic acid, but they have never been developed to permanently reshape the hair, especially because of DTT's unbearable odor and because dimercaptoadipic acid was not sufficiently active. More recently, it has already been proposed in the European application EP-A-0721772 to use 2,3-dimercaptosuccinic acid which appeared to be less effective than thioglycolic acid. It has also been suggested in U.S. Pat. No. 5,350,572 to use polyoxyethyleneglycol dimercaptoalkylesters. Although these compounds are relatively effective, they are difficult to preserve in the long term.
After having carried out various studies, the applicant has now quite surprisingly discovered a new category of dicarboxydithiols which enable to produce a reducing composition, which results in an intensive and long lasting hold curling, also with less damage to the hair, as compared to previous compositions.
It is thus one object of the present invention to provide an aqueous reducing composition for the first step of a permanent hair reshaping process, comprising in a cosmetically satisfactory medium at least one carboxydithiol as reducing agent, having the following general formula (I):
wherein:
A and B each independently represent a (CH2)n radical, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4, or a CH(CH3) radical;
R represents:
E represents:
R4 represents:
wherein R9 has the same meaning as R4 radical hereinabove;
R′ represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or an ethyl radical,
A and B may form together a cyclopentane ring when R′ represents a hydrogen atom;
By “permanent reshaping”, it is intended herein to mean the permanent curling (permanent waving), the uncurling or the straightening of the hair.
The compounds of formula (I) are generally prepared according to the procedures described in the following references:
Amongst the compounds having the general formula (I), the preferred compounds are as follows:
The following compounds are especially preferred:
In the reducing composition according to the present invention, the reducing agent(s) having the general formula (I) are generally comprised in a quantity between 0.05 and 30%, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight, as compared to the total weight of the reducing composition.
The pH of the composition according to the present invention is preferably between 4 and 11, and more particularly between 6 and 10.
The pH is generally balanced by means of an alkaline agent such as, for example, ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, alkaline or ammonium carbonate or bicarbonate, organic carbonate such as guanidine carbonate, alkaline hydroxide or by means of an acidifying agent such as, for example, hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid or boric acid, or by means of ordinary buffers, such as, for example, borate, phosphate or TRIS-buffers (tris(hydroxymethyl)amino-methane-based buffers).
The reducing composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more other known reducing agents, such as, for example, thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid and their esters and amides derivatives, especially glycerol monothioglycolate, cysteamine and its acylated (C1-C4)-derivatives, such as N-acetyl-cysteamine or N-propionyl-cysteamine, cysteine, N-acetyl-cysteine, thiomalic acid, pantheteine, 2,3-dimercaptosuccinic acid, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal sulfites or bisulfites, N-(mercaptoalkyl)-ω-hydroxyalkylamides such as those described in the patent application EP-A-354 835, N-mono or N,N-dialkylmercapto-4-butyramides such as those described in the patent application EP-A-368 763, aminomercaptoalkylamides, such as those described in the patent application EP-A-432 000, N-(mercaptoalkyl)succinamic acid and N-(mercaptoalkyl)succinimide derivatives such as those described in the patent application EP-A-465 342, alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in the patent application EP-A-514 282, an azeotropic mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate and (2-hydroxy-1-methyl)ethyl thioglycolate described in the patent application FR-A-2 679 448, mercaptoalkylaminoamides such as those described in the patent application FR-A-2 692 481, N-mercaptoalkylalkanediamides described in the patent application EP-A-653 202, as well as formamidine sulfinic acid derivatives such as those described in the application PCT/US01/43124, filed by the present applicant.
In a preferred embodiment, the reducing composition according to the present invention also comprise at least one surfactant of non ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric type. Possible examples thereof are the alkyl sulfates, alkyl benzene sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, quaternary ammonium salts, alkyl betaines, oxyethylene alkyl phenols, fatty acid alkanolamides, oxyethylene fatty acid esters, as well as other non ionic hydroxypropylether surfactants.
When the reducing composition according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactants, they generally represent at most 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, as compared to the total weight of the reducing composition.
In order to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair or to reduce or prevent their damaging, the reducing composition may also comprise a treating agent of cationic, anionic, non ionic or amphoteric nature.
Amongst the treating agents that are particularly preferred, there are notably those described in the French patents FR 2 598 613 and FR 2 470 596. Volatile or non volatile, linear or cyclic silicones may also be used as treating agents, as well as mixtures thereof, polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternized polyorganosiloxanes such as those described in the French patent application FR 2 535 730, polyorganosiloxanes with aminoalkyl moieties modified by alkoxycarbonylalkyl moieties, such as those described in the U.S. Pat. No. 4,749,732, polyorganosiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane-polyoxyalkyl copolymer i.e. dimethicone copolyol, polydimethylsiloxane with stearoxy end groups (stearoxy-dimethicone), polydimethylsiloxane and dialkylammonium acetate copolymer or polydimethylsiloxane and polyalkyl betaine copolymer described in French patent No 2 197 352, polysiloxanes organo-modified by mercapto or mercaptoalkyl groups, such as those described in the French patent FR 1 530 369 and in the European patent application EP 295 780, as well as silanes such as stearoxytrimethylsilane.
The reducing composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more other treating ingredients, such as cationic polymers such as those used in the compositions of the French patents no 79.32078 (FR 2 472 382) and 80.26421 (FR 2 495 931), or cationic polymers such as of the ionene type used in the compositions of the Luxemburger patent no 83703, basic aminoacids such as lysine or arginine, acidic aminoacids such as glutamic acid or aspartic acid, peptides and their derivatives, protein hydrolyzates, waxes, swelling agents and penetrating agents, or agents that are able to increase the reductor's efficiency such as a SiO2/PDMS mixture (polydimethylsiloxane), dimethylisosorbitol, urea and its derivatives, pyrrolidone, N-alkyl-pyrrolidones, thiamorpholinone, alkyleneglycol or dialkyleneglycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, propyleneglycol monomethylether, dipropyleneglycol monomethylether, ethyleneglycol monoethylether and diethyleneglycol monoethylether, C3-C6 alkanediols such as, for example, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol and 1,2-butanediol, 2-imidazolidinone, as well as other compounds such as fatty alcohols, lanoline derivatives, active agents such as panthothenic acid, agents for combating hair loss, anti-dandruff agents, thickeners, suspension agents, sequestering agents, opacifying agents, dyes, sunscreen agents as well as fragrances and preserving agents.
Carboxydithiol(s) of the formula (I) have to be placed in a cosmetically acceptable medium.
Thus, the vehicle for the composition according to the present invention is preferably water or a hydroalcoholic solution made of a C1-C6 lower alcohol such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol or glycerol, the C1-C6 lower alcohol representing generally at most 20% by weight, as compared to the total weight of the composition.
The reducing composition according to the present invention is in substantially aqueous form, i.e. it comes as a lotion thickened or not, as a cream thickened or not, or as a gel.
When the compositions are to be used for a hair uncurling or straightening process, the reducing composition comes preferably as a thickened cream, so as to maintain the hair as straight as possible. These creams are made in the form of “heavy” emulsions, for example with a base consisted of glyceryl stearate, glycol stearate, auto-emulsifiable waxes or fatty alcohols.
Liquids or gels containing certain thickeners may also be used, such as carboxyvinyl polymers or copolymers, which “stick” and fix the hair in the smooth position during the exposure time.
The reducing composition according to the present invention can be an exothermic type composition as well, that's to say it causes a certain heating-up when applied onto the hair, which is pleasant for the user who is experiencing the permanent waving or the uncurling first step.
It is a further object of the present invention to provide a method for permanently reshaping the hair using a reducing composition comprising at least one compound of formula (I).
The permanent hair reshaping method according to the present invention comprises:
The hair is set using mechanic means well known to those skilled in the art.
To make a permanent waving, curlers are used preferably, the reducing composition being applied before or after the hair set means and the oxidizing-fixing composition being applied after the reducing composition, with or without an intermediate or a subsequent step to rinse out or to apply an intermediate composition.
The reducing composition according to the present invention is preferably applied to wet hair, which have been previously wrapped round curlers of 2 to 30 mm diameter. The composition may also be applied as hair rolling process progresses. The reducing composition is then left generally for a period of time comprised between 5 and 60 minutes, preferably between 15 and 45 minutes to act, then has to be rinsed out thoroughly. The oxidizing composition is then applied to wrapped hair, said oxidizing composition enabling to re-form the keratin disulfide bonds, for an application time from 2 to 10 minutes. After having removed the curlers, the hair is rinsed out thoroughly.
Once the reducing composition has been applied, the hair may also undergo a thermal treatment by heating at a temperature comprised between 30 and 60° C. for all or part of the application time. In practice, this step may be conducted using a helmet hair drier, a hair drier, an infrared radiation drier and other usual heating devices.
A heating iron may also be used, the temperature of which varies between 60 and 220° C., preferably between 120 and 220° C., both as heating means and as hair setting means, the heating iron being used between the application step of the reducing composition and the fixing step.
To carry out the uncurling or the straightening of the hair, a reducing composition according to the present invention has to be applied onto the hair, then the hair undergoes a mechanical reshaping, so as to get fixed in its new shape by a smoothing operation with wide toothed comb, with back of the comb or back of the hand. After generally 5 to 60 minutes application time, preferably 15 to 45 minutes, the hair has to be smoothed down once again, then carefully rinsed out, and the oxidizing composition is applied such as defined hereinbefore, which has to be left on for about 2 to 10 minutes before rinsing the hair thoroughly.
The oxidizing composition may be any oxidizing composition traditionally used to permanently reshape hair and which contains an oxidizing agent preferably selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkaline bromates, persalts, polythionates and a mixture made of alkaline bromate and persalt. Peroxide hydrogen concentration may range from 1 to 20 volumes and preferably from 1 to 10, alkaline bromate concentration may range from 2 to 12% and persalt concentration from 0.1 to 15% by weight, as compared to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
The oxidizing composition pH is generally between 2 and 10.
As explained before, the oxidizing composition may be applied immediately or later.
According to a particular embodiment of the method according to the present invention, the smoothing of the hair may also be done, in all or part, with a heating iron at a temperature between 60 and 220° C., and preferably between 120 and 200° C.
It is another object of the present invention to provide a preparation kit, in particular to permanently reshape the hair, comprising, in a first compartment, as reducing composition, a reducing composition according to the present invention containing one or more compounds of formula (I) such as defined hereinbefore, and in a second compartment, an oxidizing composition.
Generally, the oxidizing composition comprises at least one oxidizing agent selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, alkaline bromates, persalts, polythionates and a mixture of alkaline bromate and persalt.
It is another object of the present invention to provide as new compound a carboxydithiol having the general formula (II) as follows:
wherein:
A′ and B′ each independently represent a (CH2)n radical, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4, or a CH(CH3) radical;
R′″ represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl or an ethyl radical;
R″ represents:
Amongst the compounds of general formula (II), the preferred compounds are as follows:
The following compounds are especially preferred:
The new compounds of general formula (II) may either be prepared in the same way as the procedures described in the above references, or they also may be prepared according to the synthesis scheme given hereinafter:
The dibrominated derivatives 1, 2 and 3 are reacted with the potassium salt of thioacetic acid, then hydrolysis is preferably conducted in a basic medium so as to obtain the compounds 4, 5 and 6 according to the invention.
The dibrominated derivatives of formula 1 are either commercially available or are prepared according to usual procedures from the corresponding hydroxyl derivatives.
The dibrominated derivatives of formula 2 are prepared by esterification with a primary alcohol of formula R′1—OH, as is usual, for example in presence of a strong acid in catalytic amounts, such as sulfuric acid.
The dibrominated derivatives of formula 3 are prepared by reacting the dibrominated derivatives of formula 1 with an amine of formula HNR′2R′3 in the conditions traditionally used to convert carboxylic acids into amides, for example in presence of carbonyldiimidazole.
According to another embodiment, the dibrominated derivatives of formula 3 may be prepared from dibrominated derivatives of formula 2 in the conditions traditionally used to convert esters into amides.
The present invention will be better understood by reference to the following non limitative examples which represent preferred embodiments for the compositions according to the present invention.
To a solution of 31.5 g of 3-bromo-2-(bromomethyl)-propanoic acid (0.128 mol) in 120 cm3 water containing 8.35 g 86% potash (0.128 mol), 19.5 cm3 thioacetic acid (0.274 mol) was added dropwise under agitation. A solution of 17.9 g of 86% potash (0.274 mol) in 160 cm3 water was then added, and the reaction medium has been heated to reflux for 8 hours.
Once cooled to 0° C., then acidified with a 35% hydrochloric acid solution to pH=1, the medium was extracted with 4×200 cm3 ethyl acetate. The organic phase was then washed with water to pH from about 3 to 4, then with 200 cm3 of a saturated ammonium chloride solution.
The organic phase was dried on sodium sulfate, then after filtration, evaporated under reduced pressure to give 29 g of 3-(acetylthio)-2-[(acetylthio) methyl]-propanoic acid as a slightly yellow oil.
NMR spectrum and MS correspond to the expected structure.
The following operations have been done under inert atmosphere (argon).
To 600 ml of a 10% potassium hydrogen carbonate solution (w/w) degassed with argon for half an hour was added the 29 g of 3-(acetylthio)-2-[(acetylthio) methyl]-propanoic acid previously obtained.
The medium was then brought to reflux for 5 hours.
Once cooled to the ambient temperature, the medium was then acidified under agitation to pH=1.2 with a 35% hydrochloric acid solution (60 cm3).
The reaction medium was then extracted with 3×200 cm3 ethyl acetate, then the organic phase was washed with 200 cm3 of a saturated, aqueous ammonium chloride solution.
It has been then dried on sodium sulfate, then after filtration, evaporated under reduced pressure.
An oil was obtained. This was cold-crystallised in heptane to give 15 g of 3-mercapto-2-(mercaptomethyl)-propanoic acid as white crystals having a melting point (DSC) of 56.4° C.
SH dosing using iodometry indicates a title of 98%.
NMR spectrum (1H 400 Mhz, NMR 13C 100 Mhz) and MS correspond to the expected structure.
A reducing composition to permanently reshape hair according to the present invention was prepared by mixing the following compounds together:
This composition is applied onto wet hair, previously rolled up on set curlers. The composition was left on for about 15 minutes, then the hair was blow dried with a hair dryer for 5 minutes and thoroughly rinsed out with water.
The following oxidizing composition was then applied:
The oxidizing composition left on for 5 minutes, then was rinsed out thoroughly with water. Curlers were then removed, and the hair was dried under a hood. As a result, the hair curling is bouncy and dynamic.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 04 50418 | Mar 2004 | FR | national |
This application claims benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No. 60/559,003, filed Apr. 5, 2004.
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60559003 | Apr 2004 | US |
