Patent Application
20200360264
A subject of the present invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one photoprotective system capable of screening out UV rays containing at least one insoluble organic UV-screening agent and at least one particular acrylic polymer.
The invention also relates to the use thereof in skin and hair protection against the effects ultraviolet radiation.
It is known that radiation with wavelengths of between 280 nm and 400 nm makes possible tanning of the human epidermis and that radiation with wavelengths of between 280 and 320 nm, known under the name of UV-B rays, harms the development of a natural tan. Exposure is also liable to induce impairment of the biomechanical properties of the epidermis, which is reflected by the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature ageing of the skin.
It is also known that UV-A rays with wavelengths of between 320 and 400 nm penetrate more deeply into the skin than UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause immediate and persistent browning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even of short duration, under normal conditions can result in damage to the collagen fibres and the elastin, which is reflected by a modification to the microrelief of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and uneven pigmentation (liver spots, heterogeneity of the complexion).
Protection against UVA and UVB radiation is therefore necessary. An effective photoprotective product must protect against both UVA and UVB radiation.
Many cosmetic compositions intended for the photoprotection (UV-A and/or UV-B) of the skin have been provided to date.
These photoprotective compositions are quite often in the form of an emulsion, of oil-in-water type (i.e. a cosmetically acceptable support constituted of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and of a fatty dispersed discontinuous phase), or of water-in-oil type (aqueous phase dispersed in a continuous fatty phase), which contains, in varying concentrations, one or more standard lipophilic organic screening agents and/or metal oxide mineral nanopigments capable of selectively absorbing the harmful UV radiation, these screening agents (and the amounts thereof) being selected as a function of the desired sun protection factor, the sun protection factor (SPF) being expressed mathematically as the ratio of the dose of UV radiation required to reach the erythema-forming threshold with the UV-screening agent to the dose of the UV radiation required to reach the erythema-forming threshold without the UV-screening agent. In such emulsions, the hydrophilic screening agents are present in the aqueous phase and the lipophilic screening agents are present in the fatty phase.
Oil-in-water emulsions are, in general, more appreciated by consumers than water-in-oil emulsions, especially on account of their pleasant feel (similar to water) and of their presentation in the form of milk or non-greasy cream; however, they also lose their UV-protecting efficacy more easily once they come into contact with water; specifically, hydrophilic screening agents have a tendency to disappear with water, on bathing in the sea or in a swimming pool, in the shower or when practising water sports; thus, the antisun compositions that contain them, alone or combined with lipophilic screening agents, no longer afford the desired initial protection once the substrate (skin or hair) onto which they have been applied comes into contact with water.
The most commonly used UV-screening agents are organic and soluble in oils or in aqueous media; they generally have in their structure a chromophore group linked to a solubilizing group which is generally a fatty chain in the case of liposoluble UV-screening agents or else a carboxylic or sulfonic acid group in the case of water-soluble UV-screening agents.
Most UV-screening agents have the drawback that they have to be solubilized in large amounts of oil, which often results in formulation difficulties and also in sensory drawbacks in the formula, such as a greasy effect on application.
Insoluble organic screening agents therefore appear to be particularly advantageous since they can be dispersed in water and introduced directly into the aqueous phase. Those mentioned in U.S. Pat. No. 5,869,030 are in particular known. Among these screening agents, mention may most particularly be made of Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol sold in solid form under the trade name Mixxim BB/100® by Fairmount Chemical, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion under the trade name Tinosorb M® by the company BASF. This UV-screening agent absorbs both UVA radiation and UVB radiation.
Unfortunately, the incorporation of insoluble UV-screen agents into conventional formulations, such as oil/water or water/oil emulsions, is often difficult to carry out. This is because these insoluble screening agents have a tendency to agglomerate and/or to sediment. The compositions are not stable over time. Furthermore, the cosmetic properties are not optimal; in particular, these screening agents make products feel very dragging on application and very coarse after application.
The applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that particular compositions containing at least one insoluble UV-screening agent and at least one particular acrylic polymer make it possible to obtain stable screening compositions which not only have cosmetic performance levels that are comparable to those generally obtained with a conventional composition in oil/water emulsion form, but are also less dragging and less coarse.
These discoveries form the basis of the present invention.
A subject of the present invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one insoluble organic UV-screening agent and at least one acrylic polymer defined below.
A composition in accordance with the invention may be a non-therapeutic cosmetic composition, and thus comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
The term “human keratin materials” is intended to mean the skin (of the body, face and around the eyes), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips or mucous membranes.
The term “physiologically acceptable” is intended to mean compatible with the skin and/or its appendages, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel, which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort and which is perfectly compatible with topical administration on the skin and skin appendages, and compatible with all keratin materials.
The term “insoluble UV-screening agent” is intended to mean any organic cosmetic compound for screening out UV radiation which has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in the majority of organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® sold by the company Dynamit Nobel. This solubility, determined at 70° C., is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to ambient temperature. It may be readily evaluated in the laboratory.
The term organic “UV-screening agent” is intended to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing and/or of physically blocking (in particular reflection or diffraction) UV radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 400 nm.
The term “inorganic UV-screening agent” is intended to mean any non-organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing and/or of physically blocking (in particular reflection or diffraction) UV radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 400 nm.
The term “between X and Y” is intended to mean the range of values also including the limits X and Y.
According to the invention, the term “preventing” or “prevention” is intended to mean reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of ageing of a keratin material.
In the following text, the expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more” and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range.
Another subject of the present invention is constituted of a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of said keratin material, of at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.
The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the colour and/or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.
The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.
Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge on reading the detailed description that follows.
Acrylic Polymer
The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one polymer comprising monomer units of formulae (A) and (B):
in which:
R1, independently of one another, is chosen from alkyl or alkylene radicals;
and
at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight relating to the sum of all the R1 groups present in the polymer;
and
the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the R1 group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1,
and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer.
Preferably, R1 is constituted of alkyl radicals, preferably of C16-C22 alkyl radicals, and more preferentially of behenyl (C22) radicals.
Preferably, at least 70% by weight of the R1 groups are behenyl radicals, preferentially at least 80% by weight, more preferentially at least 90% by weight. According to a preferred embodiment, all the groups R1 are behenyl radicals.
Preferably, said weight ratio ranges from 1:15 to 1:1, preferentially ranges from 1:10 to 1:4.
Advantageously, the polymer units present in the polymer a) are constituted of the units (A) and (B) previously described.
The polymer a) has a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 5000 to 9000 g/mol. The number-average molecular weight can be measured by the gel permeation chromatography method, for example according to the method described in the example hereinbelow. Preferably, the polymer a) has a melting point ranging from 60° C. to 69° C., and preferentially ranging from 63° C. to 67° C. The melting point is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to the method described in the example hereinbelow.
The polymer a) used according to the invention can be prepared by polymerization of a monomer of formula
CH2═CH—COO—R1,
R1 having the meaning previously described, and of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.
The polymerization may be performed according to known methods, such as solution polymerization or emulsion polymerization.
The polymerization is, for example, described in US 2007/0264204.
The polymer(s) b) in accordance with the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10%, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight and even more particularly from 0.5% to 4% by weight.
Insoluble Organic UV Screening Agents
The insoluble organic UV-screening agents according to the invention preferably have a mean particle size which ranges from 0.01 to 5 μm and more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 μm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm.
The mean particle diameter is measured using a particle size distribution analyzer of the Culter N4 PLUS type manufactured by Beckman Coulter Inc.
The insoluble organic screening agents according to the invention can be brought to the desired particulate form by any ad hoc means, such as in particular dry milling or milling in a solvent medium, sieving, atomization, micronization or pulverization.
The insoluble organic screening agents according to the invention in micronized form can in particular be obtained by means of a process of milling an insoluble organic UV-screening agent in the form of particles of coarse size in the presence of an appropriate surfactant making it possible to improve the dispersion of the resulting particles in the cosmetic formulations.
An example of a process for micronization of insoluble organic screening agents is described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119. The milling apparatus used according to these documents may be a jet, ball, vibration or hammer mill and preferably a high speed stirring mill or an impact mill and more particularly a rotating ball mill, a vibrating mill, a tube mill or a rod mill.
According to this particular process, use is made, as surfactants for milling said screening agents, of alkylpolyglucosides having the structure CnH2n+1O(C6H10O5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the mean degree of polymerization of the unit (C6H10O5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6. They may be chosen from C1-C12 esters of a compound having the structure CnH2n+1O(C6H10O5)xH and more particularly an ester obtained by reacting a C1-C12 carboxylic acid, such as formic, acetic, propionic, butyric, sulfosuccinic, citric or tartaric acid, with one or more free OH functions on the glucoside unit (C6H10O5). Decylglucoside may in particular be mentioned as alkyl polyglucoside.
Said surfactants are generally used at a concentration ranging from 1% to 50% by weight and more preferentially from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the insoluble screening agent in its micronized form.
The insoluble organic UV-screening agents in accordance with the invention may be chosen in particular from organic UV-screening agents of the oxalanilide type, of the triazine type, of the benzotriazole type; of the vinylamide type; of the cinnamide type; of the type comprising one or more groups which are benzazole and/or benzofuran, benzothiophene or of the indole type; of the aryl vinylene ketone type;
of the phenylene bis-benzoxazinone derivative type; of the amide, sulfonamide or acrylonitrile carbamate derivative type, or mixtures thereof.
For the purpose for which it is used in the present invention, the term “benzazole” encompasses at the same time benzothiazoles, benzoxazoles and benzimidazoles.
A/ Oxalanides
Among the UV-screening agents of the oxalanilide type in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of those corresponding to the structure:
in which T1, T′1, T2 and T′2 denote, identically or differently, a C1 to C8 alkyl radical or a C1 to C8 alkoxy radical. These compounds are described in patent application WO 95/22959.
By way of example, mention may be made of the commercial products Tinuvin 315® and Tinuvin 312® sold by the company BASF and respectively having the structure:
B/ Triazines
Among the insoluble UV-screening agents of the triazine type in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of those corresponding to formula (II) below:
in which T3, T4 and T5, independently, are phenyl, phenoxy or pyrrolo, in which the phenyl, phenoxy and pyrrolo are unsubstituted or substituted with one, two or three substituents chosen from OH, C1-C18 alkyl or C1-C18 alkoxy, C1-C18 carboxyalkyl, C5-C8 cycloalkyl, a methylbenzylidenecamphor group, a —(CH═CH)n(CO)—OT6 group, with T6 being either C1-C18 alkyl or cinnamyl.
These compounds are described in WO 97/03642, GB 2286774, EP-743309, WO 98/22447 and GB 2319523.
Among the UV-screening agents of the triazine type in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of insoluble derivatives of s-triazine bearing benzalmalonate and/or phenyl cyanoacrylate groups, such as those described in application EP-A-0790243 (which is an integral part of the content of the description).
Among these insoluble UV-screening agents of the triazine type, mention will more particularly be made of the following compounds:
Among the UV-screening agents of the triazine type in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of insoluble derivatives of s-triazine bearing benzotriazole and/or benzothiazole groups, such as those described in application WO 98/25922 (which is an integral part of the content of the description).
Among these compounds, mention may more particularly be made of:
Mention may also be made of the symmetrical triazines substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,225,467, patent application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives” IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC West Henrietta, N.Y., US (20 Sep. 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazines and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine which is also mentioned in patent applications WO 06/035 000, WO 06/034 982, WO 06/034 991, WO 06/035 007, WO 2006/034 992 and WO 2006/034 985. Mention may also be made of 5,6,5′,6′-tetraphenyl-3,3′-(1,4-phenylene)bis[1,2,4-triazine] (Phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine).
C/ Benzotriazoles
Among the insoluble organic UV-screening agents of the benzotriazole type in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of those of formula (III) below, as described in application WO 95/22959 (which forms an integral part of the content of the description):
in which T7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1 to C18 alkyl radical; and T8 and T9, which may be identical or different, denote a C1 to C18 alkyl radical optionally substituted with a phenyl.
As examples of compounds of formula (III), mention may be made of the commercial products Tinuvin 328, 320, 234 and 350 from the company BASF, having the structure below:
Among the insoluble organic UV-screening agents of the benzotriazole type in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of the compounds as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,687,521, 5,373,037 and 5,362,881 and in particular [2,4′-dihydroxy-3-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-5-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-2′-n-octoxy-5′-benzoyl]diphenylmethane sold under the name Mixxim PB30 by the company Fairmount Chemical, of structure:
Among the insoluble organic UV-screening agents of the benzotriazole type in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of the methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives having the structure below:
in which the radicals T10 and T11, which may be identical or different, denote a C1 to C18 alkyl radical which may be substituted with one or more radicals chosen from C1-C4 alkyl, C5-C12 cycloalkyl or an aryl residue. These compounds are known per se and described in applications 5 U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071, 5,166,355, GB-A-2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP-A-893 119 (which are an integral part of the description). In formula (1) defined above: the C1-C18 alkyl groups may be linear or branched and are, for example, methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, tert-octyl, n-amyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, isooctyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, tetradecyl, hexydecyl or octadecyl; the C5-C12 cycloalkyl groups are, for example, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl or cyclooctyl; the aryl groups are, for example, phenyl or benzyl.
Among the compounds of formula (IV), mention may be made of those having the structure below:
Compound (a) of nomenclature 2,2′-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] is sold especially under the trade name Mixxim BB/200® by the company Fairmount Chemical.
Compound (c) of nomenclature 2,2′-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(methyl)phenol] is sold in particular in solid form under the trade name Mixxim BB/200® by the company Fairmount Chemical.
D/ Vinyl Amides
Among the insoluble organic screening agents of the vinylamide type, mention may be made for example of the compounds having the formulae below which are described in application WO 95/22959 (which is an integral part of the content of the description):
T12-(Y)r-C(═O)—C(T13)=C(T14)-N(T15)(T16) (V)
in which T12 is a C1 to C18, preferably C1 to C5, alkyl radical or a phenyl group which is optionally substituted with one, two or three radicals chosen from OH, C1 to C18 alkyl, C1 to Ca alkoxy, or a —C(═O)—OT17 group where T17 is a C1 to C18 alkyl; T13, T14, T15 and T1, which may be identical or different, denote a C1 to C18, preferably C1 to C5, alkyl radical or a hydrogen atom; Y is N or O and r is 0 or 1.
Among these compounds, mention will more particularly be made of:
E/ Cinnamamides
Among the insoluble organic screening agents of the cinnamamide type in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of the compounds as described in application WO 95/22959 (which forms an integral part of the content of the description) and which correspond to the structure below:
in which OT18 is a hydroxyl or C1 to C4 alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy or ethoxy; T19 is hydrogen or C1 to C4 alkyl, preferably methyl or ethyl; T20 is a —(CONH)s-phenyl group where s is 0 or 1 and the phenyl group may be substituted with one, two or three groups chosen from OH, C1 to C18 alkyl, C1 to C8 alkoxy, or a —C(═O)—OT21 group where T21 is a C1 to C18 alkyl and more preferentially T21 is a phenyl, 4-methoxyphenyl or phenylaminocarbonyl group.
Mention may also be made of cinnamamide dimers such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,888,481, for instance the compound having the structure:
F/ Benzazoles
Among the insoluble organic screening agents of the benzazole type, mention may be made of those corresponding to one of the formulae below:
in which each of the symbols X independently represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or a group NR2, each of the symbols Z independently represents a nitrogen atom or a CH group,
each of the symbols R1 independently represents an OH group, a halogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl group, optionally containing a silicon atom, or a linear or branched C1-C8 alkoxy group,
each of the numbers m is independently 0, 1 or 2,
n represents an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive,
p is equal to 0 or 1,
each of the numbers q is independently equal to 0 or 1,
each of the symbols R2 independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a benzyl or linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl group, optionally containing a silicon atom,
A represents a radical of valency n chosen from those of formulae:
in which each of the symbols R3 independently represents a halogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl or alkoxy group or a hydroxyl group, and R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, c=0-4, d=0-3, e=0 or 1, and f=0-2.
These compounds are especially described in patents DE 676 103 and CH 350 763, U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,501,850, 5,961,960, patent application EP0669323, U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,518,713, 2,463,264, the article J. Am. Chem. Soc., 79, 5706-5708, 1957, the article J. Am. Chem. Soc., 82, 609-5 611, 1960, patent application EP0921126, and patent application EP712855.
As examples of preferred compounds of formula (VII) of the 2-arylbenzazole family, mention may be made of 2-benzoxazol-2-yl-4-methylphenol, 2-(1H-benzimidazol-2-yl)-4-methoxyphenol or 2-benzothiazol-2-ylphenol, these compounds possibly being prepared, for example, according to the processes described in patent CH 350 763.
As examples of preferred compounds of formula (VII) of the benzimidazolylbenzazole family, mention will be made of 2,2′-bis-benzimidazole, 5,5′,6,6′-tetramethyl-2,2′-bis-benzimidazole, 5,5′-dimethyl-2,2′-bis-benzimidazole, 6-methoxy-2,2′-bis-benzimidazole, 2-(1H-benzimidazol-2-yl)benzothiazole, 2-(1H-benzimidazol-2-yl)benzoxazole and N,N′-dimethyl-2,2′-bis-benzimidazole, these compounds possibly being prepared according to the procedures described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,961,960 and 2,463,264.
As examples of preferred compounds of formula (VII) of the phenylenebenzazole family, mention will be made of 1,4-phenylene-bis-(2-benzoxazolyl), 1,4-phenylene-bis-(2-benzimidazolyl), 1,3-phenylene-bis-(2-benzoxazolyl), 1,2-phenylene-bis-(2-benzoxazolyl), 1,2-phenylene-bis-(benzimidazolyl), 1,4-phenylene-bis-(N-2-ethylhexyl-2-benzimidazolyl) and 1,4-phenylene-bis-(N-trimethylsilylmethyl-2-benzimidazolyl), these compounds possibly being prepared according to the procedures described in U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264 and in the publications J. Am. Chem. Soc., 82, 609 (1960) and J. Am. Chem. Soc., 79, 5706-5708 (1957).
As examples of preferred compounds of formula (VII) of the benzofuranylbenzoxazole family, mention will be made of 2-(2-benzofuranyl)benzoxazole, 2-(benzofuranyl)-5-methylbenzoxazole and 2-(3-methyl-2-benzofuranyl)benzoxazole, these compounds possibly being prepared according to the procedures described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,518,713.
As preferred compounds of formula (VIII), mention may be made, for example, of 2,6-diphenyl-1,7-dihydrobenzo[1,2-d; 4,5-d′]diimidazole corresponding to the formula:
or 2,6-distyryl-1,7-dihydrobenzo[1,2-d; 4,5-d′]diimidazole or else 2,6-di(p-tert-butylstyryl)-1,7-dihydrobenzo[1,2-d; 4,5-d′]diimidazole, which may be prepared according to application EP 0 669 323.
As preferred compound of formula (IX), mention may be made of 5,5′-bis-[(phenyl-2)-benzimidazole] having the formula:
the preparation of which is described in J. Chim. Phys., 64, 1602 (1967).
Among these insoluble organic compounds which screen out UV radiation, preference is given most particularly to 2-(1H-benzimidazol-2-yl)benzoxazole, 5 ole, 6-methoxy-2,2′-bis-benzimidazole, 2-(1H-benzimidazol-2-yl)benzothiazole, 1,4-phenylenebis-(2-benzoxazolyl), 1,4-phenylene-bis-(2-benzimidazolyl), 1,3-phenylenebis-(2-benzoxazolyl), 1,2-phenylene-bis-(2-benzoxazolyl), 1,2-phenylenebis-(2-benzimidazolyl) and 1,4-phenylene-bis-(N-trimethylsilylmethyl-2-benzimidazolyl).
G/ Aryl Vinylene Ketones
Among the insoluble organic screening agents of the aryl vinylene ketone type, mention may be made of those corresponding to one of formulae (X) and (XI) below:
in which:
n′=1 or 2,
B, in formula (X) when n′=1 or in formula (XI), is an aryl radical chosen from formulae (a′) to (d′) below, or, in formula (X) when n′=2, is a radical chosen from formulae (e′) to (h′) below:
in which:
each of the symbols R8 independently represents an OH group, a halogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally containing a silicon atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkoxy group, optionally containing a silicon atom, a linear or branched C1-C5 alkoxycarbonyl group, or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkylsulfonamide group, optionally containing a silicon atom or an amino acid function,
p′ represents an integer between 0 and 4 inclusive,
q′ represents 0 or 1,
R5 represents hydrogen or an OH group,
R6 represents hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally containing a silicon atom, a cyano group, a C1-C6 alkylsulfonyl group, or a phenylsulfonyl group,
R7 represents a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally containing a silicon atom, or a phenyl group which can form a bicycle and which is optionally substituted with one or two radicals R4,
or R6 and R together form a monocyclic, bicyclic or tricyclic C2-10 hydrocarbon-based residue, optionally interrupted with one or more nitrogen, sulfur and oxygen atoms and which can contain another carbonyl, and optionally substituted with a linear or branched C1-C8 alkylsulfonamide group,
and optionally containing a silicon atom or an amino acid function; provided that, when n′=1, R6 and R7 do not form a camphor nucleus.
As examples of insoluble compounds of formula (X), in which n′=1, which screen out UV radiation and which have a mean particle size of between 10 nm and 5 nm, mention may be made of the following families:
As examples of insoluble compounds of formula (X), in which n′=2, which screen out UV radiation and which have a mean particle size of between 10 nm and 5 μm, mention may be made of the following families:
or 1,3-phenylene-bis-{3-methylidene-1,7,7-trimethylbicyclo [2.2.1]heptan-2-one}:
As compounds of formula (XI), mention may be made of the following families:
Among these insoluble organic compounds which screen out UV radiation, of the aryl vinylene ketone type, preference is given most particularly to the compounds of formula (X) in which n′=2.
H/ Phenylene Bis-Benzoxazinones
Among the insoluble organic screening agents of the phenylene bis-benzoxazinone type, mention may be made of those corresponding to formula (XII) below:
with R representing a divalent aromatic residue chosen from the formulae (e) to (h) below:
in which:
each of the symbols R9 independently represents an OH group, a halogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally containing a silicon atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkoxy group, optionally containing a silicon atom, a linear or branched C1-C5 alkoxycarbonyl group, or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkylsulfonamide group, optionally containing a silicon atom or an amino acid function,
p″ represents an integer between 0 and 4 inclusive,
q″ represents 0 or 1.
As examples of insoluble compounds of formula (XII), which screen out UV radiation and which have a mean particle size of between 10 nm and 5 μm, mention may be made of the following derivatives:
I/ Acrylonitrile Amide, Sulfonamide or Carbamate Derivatives
Among the insoluble organic screening agents of the acrylonitrile amide, sulfonamide or carbamate derivative type, mention may be made of those corresponding to formula (XIII) below:
in which:
R10 represents a linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl group,
n′″ is 0, 1 or 2,
X2 represents a divalent radical of formula —(C═O)—R11—(C═O)—, —SO2—R11—SO2— or —(C═O)—O—R11—O—(C═O)—,
Y represents a radical —(C═O)—R12 or —SO2R13,
R11 represents a single bond or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkylene or C3-C30 alkenylene divalent radical which may bear one or more hydroxyl substituents and which may contain, in the carbon-based chain, one or more heteroatoms chosen from oxygen, nitrogen and silicon atoms,
R12 represents a radical —OR14 or —NHR14,
R13 represents a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical, or a phenyl nucleus which is unsubstituted or substituted with C1-C4 alkyl or alkoxy radicals,
R14 represents a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl or C3-C30 alkenyl radical which may bear one or more hydroxyl substituents and which may contain, in the carbon-based chain, one or more heteroatoms chosen from oxygen, nitrogen and silicon atoms.
Although, in formula (XIII) above, only the isomers in which the cyano substituent is in the cis position relative to the para-aminophenyl substituent are represented, this formula should be understood as also encompassing the corresponding trans isomers; for each of the two double bonds and independently, the cyano and para-aminophenyl substituents may be in the cis or trans configuration relative to one another.
By way of example, mention may be made of the dimer of 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-[4-(acetylamino)phenyl]acrylate of formula:
J/ Polyvalent Metals
Another particular family of insoluble organic screening agents in accordance with the invention are the salts of polyvalent metals (for example Ca2+, Zn2+, Mg2+, Ba2+, Al3+ or Zr4+) of sulfonic or carboxylic organic screening agents such as the polyvalent metal salts of sulfonated derivatives of benzylidenecamphor, such as those described in application FR-A 2 639 347; the polyvalent metal salts of sulfonated derivatives of benzimidazole, such as those described in application EP-A-893119; the polyvalent metal 5 salts of cinnamic acid derivatives, such as those described in patent application JP-87 166 517.
Mention may also be made of the metal, ammonium or substituted-ammonium complexes of UV-A and/or UV-B organic screening agents as described in patent applications WO93/10753, WO93/11095 and WO95/05150.
Among the insoluble organic UV-screening agents, mention may also be made of the compound 1,1′-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) having the following structure:
as described in application WO 2007/071 584; this compound advantageously being used in micronized form (mean size of 0.02 to 2 μm), which may be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion.
According to one particularly preferred form of the invention, use will be made of the insoluble organic UV-screening agents chosen from:
(i) symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,225,467, application WO 2004/085 412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives”, IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC West Henrietta, N.Y., US (20 Sep. 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(diphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine, which is also mentioned in patent applications WO 06/035 000, WO 06/034 982, WO 06/034 991, WO 06/035 007, WO 2006/034 992 and WO 2006/034 985, these compounds advantageously being used in micronized form (mean particle size of 0.02 to 3 μm), which may be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form;
(ii) the methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds of formula (IV) below:
in which the radicals T10 and T11, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C18 alkyl radical which may be substituted with one or more radicals chosen from C1-C4 alkyl, C5-C12 cycloalkyl or an aryl residue;
(iii) and mixtures thereof.
According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds of formula (IV) are in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles having a mean particle size which ranges from 0.01 to 5 μm and more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 μm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm with at least one surfactant of structure CnH2n+1O(C6H10O5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the mean degree of polymerization of the unit (C6H10O5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6 as defined previously. Said surfactant is preferably used at a concentration ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, and more preferentially from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the benzotriazole screening agent, and the amount of benzotriazole screening agent of formula (I) in the aqueous dispersion preferably ranges from 10% to 50% by weight, and more preferentially from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
The mean particle diameter is measured using a particle size distribution analyzer of the Culter N4 PLUS® type manufactured by Beckman Coulter Inc.
According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds of formula (IV) may be in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles having a mean particle size which ranges from 0.02 to 2 μm and more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 μm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm in the presence of at least one polyglycerol mono(C8-C20)alkyl ester having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent application WO2009/063392. As an example of surfactants which are mono-(C8-C20)alkyl esters of polyglycerol, mention may be made of decaglyceryl caprate, decaglyceryl laurate, decaglyceryl myristate, decaglyceryl oleate, decaglyceryl stearate, decaglyceryl isostearate, hexaglyceryl caprate, hexaglyceryl laurate, hexaglyceryl myristate, hexaglyceryl oleate, hexaglyceryl stearate, hexaglyceryl isostearate, pentaglyceryl caprate, pentaglyceryl laurate, pentaglyceryl myristate, pentaglyceryl oleate, pentaglyceryl stearate, and pentaglyceryl isostearate.
Use will more particularly be made of:
Among these surfactants, those having an HLB greater than or equal to 14.5, and more preferentially greater than or equal to 15, are preferably used. As examples of surfactants which are mono-(C8-C20)alkyl esters of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 and having an HLB greater than or equal to 14.5, mention may be made of decaglyceryl caprate, decaglyceryl laurate, decaglyceryl myristate, decaglyceryl oleate, decaglyceryl stearate, decaglyceryl isostearate, hexaglyceryl laurate, pentaglyceryl caprate, pentaglyceryl laurate, pentaglyceryl myristate, pentaglyceryl oleate, and pentaglyceryl stearate. As examples of surfactants which are mono-(C8-C20)alkyl esters of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 and having an HLB greater than or equal to 15, mention may be made of decaglyceryl caprate and decaglyceryl laurate.
The amount of methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compound of formula (IV) in the aqueous dispersion preferably ranges from 10% to 50% by weight, and more preferentially from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
Preferentially, the methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compound/mono-(C8-C20)alkyl ester of polyglycerol weight ratio ranges from 0.05 to 0.5, and more preferentially from 0.1 to 0.3.
In these aqueous dispersions, use will more preferentially be made, as methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compound of formula (IV), of the compound 2,2′-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] having the structure:
such as the commercial product sold under the name Tinosorb M® by BASF which is an aqueous dispersion comprising decylglucoside, xanthan gum and propylene glycol (INCI name: Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Aqua (and) Decyl Glucoside (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum).
The insoluble organic UV screening agent(s) of the invention are present at an active material concentration preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight approximately and more particularly from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional UV-Screening Agents
The compositions in accordance with the invention can also contain soluble organic UV-screening agents which are active in the UV-A range and/or the UV-B range, and/or inorganic screening agents. They are in particular chosen from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives such as those described in patent applications U.S. Pat. No. 4,367,390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469 and EP933376; benzophenone derivatives; β,β′-diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives; imadazolines; bisbenzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described in particular in application WO 93/04665; α-alkylstyrene-based dimers such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications EP0967200 and DE19755649, and also mixtures thereof.
As examples of supplementary organic screening agents which are active in the UV-A range and/or UV-B range, mention may be made of those denoted above, under their INCI name:
Para-Aminobenzoic Acid Derivatives:
Salicylic Derivatives:
Dibenzoylmethane Derivatives:
Cinnamic Derivatives:
β,β′-Diphenylacrylate Derivatives:
Benzophenone Derivatives:
Benzylidenecamphor Derivatives:
Phenylbenzimidazole Derivatives:
Triazine Derivatives:
Phenylbenzotriazole Derivatives:
Anthranilic Derivatives:
Imidazoline Derivatives:
Benzalmalonate Derivatives:
The soluble organic UV-screening agents that are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following compounds:
and mixtures thereof.
The supplementary soluble UV-screening agent(s) are generally present in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight approximately, and preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight approximately, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The inorganic UV-screening agents used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV-screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles with an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferentially between 0.005 and 0.5 μm, even more preferentially between 0.01 and 0.2 μm, better still between 0.01 and 0.1 μm and more particularly preferentially between 0.015 and 0.05 μm.
They may be chosen in particular from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, or mixtures thereof.
Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. Commercial pigments that may be mentioned include the products sold by the companies Sachtleben Pigments, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.
The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
The coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated:
Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric/caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may also comprise one or more dispersants, for instance a sorbitan ester, for instance sorbitan isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, for instance TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiO2 particles doped with manganese in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate having the INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, for instance the product sold under the trade name Optisol TD50 by the company Croda.
The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B, by the company Degussa under the name P 25, by the company Wackher under the name Transparent Titanium Oxide PW, by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR, by the company Tomen under the name ITS and by the company Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.
The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may, for example, be those sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide by the company Rhône-Poulenc.
The non-coated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ and Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R) or by the company Mitsubishi under the name TY-220.
The coated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN), Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556), Nanogard FE 45 BL 345 and Nanogard FE 45 BL or by the company BASF under the name Transparent Iron Oxide.
Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by the company Ikeda under the name Sunveil A, and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product M 261 sold by the company Sachtleben Pigments, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such as the product M 211 sold by the company Sachtleben Pigments.
According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.
The inorganic UV-screening agents are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 20% by weight and in particular from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise an aqueous phase and/or an oily phase.
Oily Phase
The compositions in accordance with the invention comprise at least one oily phase.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “oily phase” is intended to mean a phase comprising at least one oil and all of the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and the fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.
The term “oil” is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
An oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be volatile or non-volatile.
An oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils and fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.
A hydrocarbon-based oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be an animal hydrocarbon-based oil, a plant hydrocarbon-based oil, a mineral hydrocarbon-based oil or a synthetic hydrocarbon-based oil.
An oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be advantageously chosen from mineral hydrocarbon-based oils, plant hydrocarbon-based oils, synthetic hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si—O group.
The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” is intended to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
The term “fluoro oil” refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
A hydrocarbon-based oil that is suitable for use in the invention may also optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl, amine, amide, ester, ether or acid groups, and in particular in the form of hydroxyl, ester, ether or acid groups.
The oily phase generally comprises, in addition to the lipophilic UV-screening agent(s), at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one volatile and/or non-volatile silicone oil.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” is intended to mean an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). The term “non-volatile oil” is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that in particular has a vapour pressure of less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
Hydrocarbon-Based Oils
Mention may especially be made, as non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which may be used according to the invention, of:
(i) hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil and musk rose oil; or also caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;
(ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, squalane and mixtures thereof;
(iv) synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula RCOOR′ in which R represents the linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R′ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R+R′ is ≥10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN® by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(linear C12-C13 alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also di(linear C14-C15 alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; or acetates;
(v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;
(vi) higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
(vii) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by the company Cognis;
(viii) fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL205® from the company Ajinomoto, and mixtures thereof.
Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular to caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol.
As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and in particular of branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the Cognis patent applications WO 2007/068 371 or WO 2008/155 059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil. Mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97®, and also mixtures thereof.
Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by the company Shell, may also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.
b) Silicone Oils
The non-volatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
Examples of volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity 8 centistokes (8×10−6 m2/s) and in particular having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (I):
where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be replaced with a fluorine or chlorine atom.
Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of:
corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is, respectively, a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.
Fluoro Oils
Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.
An oily phase according to the invention may also comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in the oil.
Another fatty substance that may be present in the oily phase may be, for example:
Preferentially, the overall oily phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 5% to 95% by weight and preferentially from 10% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous Phase
The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.
An aqueous phase that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents that are suitable for use in the invention comprise short-chain monoalcohols, for example C1-C4 monoalcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, use may more particularly be made of ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
According to one particular form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition which are capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 5% to 95% by weight and preferably from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The compositions according to the invention can also comprise agents for the artificial tanning and/or browning of the skin (self-tanning agents), such as for example dihydroxyacetone (DHA).
The compositions of the invention can also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, in particular chosen from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, demulcents, antioxidants, free-radical scavengers, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, α-hydroxy acids, anti-foams, moisturizing agents, vitamins, insect repellents, fragrances, preservatives, surfactants, fillers, photoprotective agents, polymers other than those of the invention, propellants, basifying or acidifying agents, dyes or any other ingredient normally used in cosmetics, in particular for the production of anti-sun compositions, or of care or makeup compositions, in particular in the form of emulsions.
The fatty substances can be constituted of an oil or a wax or mixtures thereof, and they also comprise fatty acids, fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters. The oils can be chosen from animal, plant, mineral or synthetic oils and in particular from liquid petroleum jelly, paraffin oil, volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, isoparaffins, polyolefins, and fluoro and perfluoro oils. Likewise, the waxes may be chosen from animal, fossil, plant, mineral or synthetic waxes known per se.
Mention may be made, among organic solvents, of lower alcohols and polyols.
Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) and/or the amounts thereof so that the advantageous properties, in particular the persistence with respect to water and the stability, intrinsically associated with the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
The compositions of the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art, in particular those intended for the preparation of oil-in water or water-in-oil emulsions.
These compositions may be in particular in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W) such as a cream, a milk or a cream-gel, a powder or a solid rod, and optionally be packaged as an aerosol, and be in the form of a foam or a spray.
When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase of this emulsion may comprise a non-ionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
The cosmetic composition of the invention can be used as a protective composition for the human epidermis or the hair against ultraviolet rays, as daily photoprotection or as an anti-sun composition, or a makeup product.
When the cosmetic composition according to the invention is used for the protection of the human epidermis against UV rays, or as an anti-sun composition, it can be in the form of a suspension or a dispersion in solvents or fatty substances, in the form of a non-ionic vesicular dispersion or else in the form of an emulsion, such as a cream or milk, or in the form of an ointment, gel, a gel-cream, a solid rod, a powder, a stick, an aerosol foam or a spray.
When the cosmetic composition according to the invention is used for protecting the hair against UV rays, it can be in the form of a shampoo, a lotion, a gel, an emulsion, or a non-ionic vesicular dispersion and can constitute, for example, a rinse-off composition to be applied before or after shampooing, before or after dyeing or bleaching, before, during or after permanent-waving or relaxing of the hair, a styling or treating lotion or gel, a blow drying or hair setting lotion or gel, or a composition for permanent-waving or relaxing, dyeing or bleaching of the hair.
When the composition is used as a product for making up the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the skin, such as a cream for treating the epidermis, a foundation, a lipstick, an eyeshadow, a face powder, a mascara or an eyeliner, it can be in solid or pasty form, such as oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, non-ionic vesicular dispersions or else suspensions.
By way of indication, for the anti-sun formulations in accordance with the invention which have a support of oil-in-water emulsion type, the aqueous phase (comprising in particular the hydrophilic screening agents) generally represents from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the whole of the formulation, the oily phase (comprising in particular the lipophilic screening agents) represents from 5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the whole of the formulation, and the (co)emulsifier(s) represent from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the whole of the formulation.
The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, for the skin, the lips and the hair, including the scalp, in particular for protecting and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the hair, and/or for making up the skin and/or the lips.
Another subject of the present invention is constituted of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and/or the scalp, in particular care products, antisun products and makeup products.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be used, for example, as makeup products.
Another subject of the present invention is constituted of a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, which consists in applying, to the surface of said keratin material, at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be used, for example, as care products and/or antisun products for the face and/or body, with a liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, more or less smooth creams, cream gels or pastes. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol form and may be in the form of a mousse or a spray.
The compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions in accordance with the invention are applied to the skin or hair in the form of fine particles by means of pressurizing devices. The devices in accordance with the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and comprise non-aerosol pumps or “atomizers”, aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol pumps using compressed air as propellant. These devices are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517.
The compositions packaged in aerosol form in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants, for instance hydrofluoro compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane or trichlorofluoromethane. They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 15% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Assembly
According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising:
i) a container delimiting one or more compartment(s), said container being closed by a closing member and optionally being unsealed; and
ii) a makeup and/or care composition in accordance with the invention placed inside said compartment(s).
The container can, for example, be in the form of a pot or a case.
The closing member can be in the form of a lid comprising a cap mounted so as to be able to move by translation or by pivoting relative to the container housing said makeup and/or care composition(s).
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts of the composition ingredients are given as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
Determination of the Molecular Weight by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC):
The sample is prepared by preparing a solution of the polymer at 10 mg/ml in tetrahydrofuran. The sample is placed in an oven at 54° C. for 10 minutes and then in an oscillating shaker for 60 minutes to aid dissolution. After visual inspection, the sample appears to be totally dissolved in the solvent.
The sample prepared was analysed using two polypore 300×7.5 mm columns (manufactured by Agilent Technologies), a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, a tetrahydrofuran mobile phase and detection by refractive index. The sample was filtered through a 0.45 μm nylon filter, before being injected into the liquid chromatograph. The standards used for the calibration are the Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies.
Polystyrene standards ranging from 2 520 000 to 162 daltons were used for the calibration.
The system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 RI detector. The polystyrene calibration curve was used to determine the average molecular weight. The recording of the diagrams and the determination of the various molecular weights were performed by the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.
Determination of the Melting Point by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (or DSC):
This method describes the general procedure for determining the melting point of polymers by differential scanning calorimetry. This method is based on the standards ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182 and the DSC calibration is performed according to standard ASTM E 9672.
Behenyl Acrylate/2-Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer (Polymer 1):
In a 4-necked flask equipped with side-blade mixer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two other necks, 175 g of behenyl acrylate, 25 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and 0.4 g of 2,2′-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (Akzo Nobel) were added, over the course of 60 minutes at 80° C., to 40 g of isopropanol, with stirring, after having removed the oxygen from the system by means of a nitrogen flush for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80° C. for 3 hours. The solvent was then eliminated by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 110° C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90° C., a stream of demineralized water was added and the mixture was then stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.
Molecular weight: Mn=7300 g/mol, Mw=21 000, Mw/Mn=2.8
Melting point: 65° C.
For each composition, the stability over time was studied at various temperatures and/or the sensory aspect was evaluated during and after its application to the skin.
Study of the Stability Over Time at Various Temperatures
The stability is studied over time by observing the change in the composition with regard to its macroscopic appearance and its microscopic appearance, at various temperatures such as ambient temperature (AT), 4° C. or 45° C.
The following compositions were prepared.
Procedure:
Dissolve the starting materials of the fatty phase (A1) at 75/80° C.
Dissolve the starting materials of the aqueous phase (B) at AT.
Add the phenoxyethanol (A2) to A1 just before the emulsification.
At 65° C., emulsify B in (A1+A2), turbine (3000 rpm)+paddles for 10 min. Add the gelling agents (C), turbine (3000 rpm)+paddles for 10 min.
Add the remaining water (D), turbine (3000 rpm)+paddles for 10 min while beginning to cool to AT.
Continue the cooling with paddles.
At AT, add the insoluble screening agent (E), then operate the turbine at 3000 rpm, then stir with paddles for 5 min.
Results
The properties of glide on application and of softness after application were compared for each of the compositions at equivalent screening-agent concentration.
50 μl of product sampled with a pipette are deposited on the back of the hand (or on SkinFX (reconstructed skin)).
15 circular motions are performed on the back of the hand over the course of 15 seconds.
After having waited 15 seconds, 15 circular motions are again performed over the course of 15 seconds.
Trained experts evaluate from 1 to 5 with an increment of 0.5 (1=negative limit, 5=positive limit).
Glide: Tactile evaluation at the end of application. Slide 2 fingers on the skin.
Tack: Tactile evaluation. Tactile evaluation 45 s after application.
The compositions comprising an insoluble screening agent and a polymer b) according to the invention have improved cosmetic properties.
The following compositions were prepared.
Procedure:
Dissolve the SMs of the fatty phase (A1) at 75/80° C.
Dissolve the starting materials of the aqueous phase (B) at 65° C.
Add the phenoxyethanol (A2) to A1 just before the emulsification.
At 65° C., emulsify (A1+A2) in B, turbine (3000 rpm)+paddles for 10 min. Add the gelling agent (C), turbine (3000 rpm)+paddles for 10 min.
Initiate the cooling to AT while leaving the turbine (2000 rpm) and the paddles until T<40° C.
At AT, add the insoluble screening agent (D), turbine (3000 rpm)+paddles for 5 min.
Results
The compositions according to the invention are stable, contrary to the compositions not containing the polymer b) according to the invention.
The following compositions are prepared.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1760732 | Nov 2017 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2018/081475 | 11/15/2018 | WO | 00 |
