Patent Grant
11679065
The present invention is directed to personal care compositions where it has been surprisingly found that the addition of larger particle sulfur provides strong efficacy while minimizing inherent sulfur malodor aesthetics.
Conventional wisdom in the anti-dandruff shampoo category has found that achieving maximum efficacy benefit from deposited particulate antidandruff (AD) actives is a function of reducing particle size and maximizing deposition on the scalp. Much to conventional understanding surprise, we have found that the opposite applies when working with sulfur. The present invention has shown that due to sulfur's higher solubility in sebum (multiple orders of magnitude when compared to a common AD active like Zinc Pyrithione), reducing its surface area on scalp via increasing the particle size ensures a significantly longer resonance time of the active on the scalp versus smaller particles which are more quickly dissolved and diluted below the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC). Further analysis, via simulation and modelling exercises, suggests that there is also a point of diminishing returns where the particle size becomes too large, reducing solubility to a point that the required dose for efficacy is never reached. This understanding has allowed the present invention to maximize the efficiency of efficacy of our AD products using particles of a target size range, at lower deposition amounts than we are able to achieve with smaller particles and increased deposition.
Additional to the AD efficacy benefit that is achieved by moving to larger particles, there is also a direct correlation to consumer acceptability of the products via the reduction of malodors associated with sulfur containing products. These malodors are formed when sulfur interacts with specific chemical moieties in the skin to produce strong smelling compounds like hydrogen sulfide and methyl mercaptan. By minimizing the amount of sulfur that is deposited on skin while maintaining efficacious dosing via use of sulfur with an increased particle size, the expected tradeoff between clinical performance and cosmetic acceptance can be significantly mitigated.
With the desired increase in particle size of the sulfur active, a new technical dilemma presents itself in the form of compromised shelf stability of the finished product. Early formulation efforts with sulfur of larger particle sizes, while efficacious, has proven to be physically unstable, resulting in significant in-situ settling of the sulfur particles. Investigation to solve this issue have shown that by using a complimentary combination of stabilizing ingredients, a product that is not only physically shelf stable but also cosmetically acceptable and processable at scale can be achieved.
The present invention is directed to a personal care composition comprising from about 10% to about 25% of one or more surfactants; from about 0.1% to 10% of sulfur; wherein the sulfur has a mean particle size (D50) of from about 5 μm to about 150 μm; from about 0.05% to about 10% of one or more stabilizing polymers; and from about 0.01% to about 4% of a suspending wax.
All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the total composition, unless otherwise designated. All measurements are understood to be made at ambient conditions, where “ambient conditions” means conditions at about 25° C., under about one atmosphere of pressure, and at about 50% relative humidity, unless otherwise designated. All numeric ranges are inclusive of narrower ranges; delineated upper and lower range limits are combinable to create further ranges not explicitly delineated.
The compositions of the present invention can comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of, the essential components as well as optional ingredients described herein. As used herein, “consisting essentially of” means that the composition or component may include additional ingredients, but only if the additional ingredients do not materially alter the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed compositions or methods.
“Apply” or “application,” as used in reference to a composition, means to apply or spread the compositions of the present invention onto keratinous tissue such as the hair.
“Dermatologically acceptable” means that the compositions or components described are suitable for use in contact with human skin tissue without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like.
“Safe and effective amount” means an amount of a compound or composition sufficient to significantly induce a positive benefit.
While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing out and distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following description.
As used herein, the term “fluid” includes liquids and gels.
As used herein, the articles including “a” and “an” when used in a claim, are understood to mean one or more of what is claimed or described.
As used herein, “comprising” means that other steps and other ingredients which do not affect the end result can be added. This term encompasses the terms “consisting of” and “consisting essentially of”.
As used herein, “mixtures” is meant to include a simple combination of materials and any compounds that may result from their combination.
As used herein, “molecular weight” or “Molecular weight” refers to the weight average molecular weight unless otherwise stated. Molecular weight is measured using industry standard method, gel permeation chromatography (“GPC”).
Where amount ranges are given, these are to be understood as being the total amount of said ingredient in the composition, or where more than one species fall within the scope of the ingredient definition, the total amount of all ingredients fitting that definition, in the composition.
For example, if the composition comprises from 1% to 5% fatty alcohol, then a composition comprising 2% stearyl alcohol and 1% cetyl alcohol and no other fatty alcohol, would fall within this scope.
The amount of each particular ingredient or mixtures thereof described hereinafter can account for up to 100% (or 100%) of the total amount of the ingredient(s) in the hair care composition.
As used herein, “personal care compositions” includes products such as shampoos, shower gels, liquid hand cleansers, hair colorants, facial cleansers, and other surfactant-based liquid compositions
As used herein, the terms “include,” “includes,” and “including,” are meant to be non-limiting and are understood to mean “comprise,” “comprises,” and “comprising,” respectively.
All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the active level and, therefore, do not include carriers or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials.
Unless otherwise noted, all component or composition levels are in reference to the active portion of that component or composition, and are exclusive of impurities, for example, residual solvents or by-products, which may be present in commercially available sources of such components or compositions.
It should be understood that every maximum numerical limitation given throughout this specification includes every lower numerical limitation, as if such lower numerical limitations were expressly written herein. Every minimum numerical limitation given throughout this specification will include every higher numerical limitation, as if such higher numerical limitations were expressly written herein. Every numerical range given throughout this specification will include every narrower numerical range that falls within such broader numerical range, as if such narrower numerical ranges were all expressly written herein.
Sulfur
The personal care composition of the present invention may include sulfur. The sulfur which is suitable for use herein can be any form of elemental sulfur. Sulfur exists at room temperatures primarily as rhombic crystals. The two most prevalent ways of obtaining elemental sulfur are: precipitation from hydrogen sulfide, with one route coming from contamination in sour gas, via the Claus process and mining underground deposits using superheated water, known as the Frasch process. Other forms of sulfur, such as monoclinic crystalline sulfur, oligomeric or polymeric sulfur, are the normal primary forms which elemental sulfur assumes at certain higher temperature ranges. At room temperatures, these forms convert, or revert, to rhombic sulfur. The sulfur while being in elemental form may be sulfur which has been physically mixed with protective colloids such as gum arabic, clays, waxes, oils, activated carbon, zeolites, silica or dispersing agents such as surfactants or subjected to processing steps to modify its particle size or other physical property. Sulfur is available commercially in a variety of forms such as pellets, cakes, prills, colloidal, micronized, sublimed, precipitated, and commercial flour.
Sulfur may have a particle size distribution wherein 90% of the particles (D90) of from about 30 micron (μm) to about 250 micron (μm); Sulfur may have a particle size distribution wherein the D90 is from about 30 micron (μm) to about 200 micron (μm); Sulfur may have a particle size distribution wherein the D90 is from about 30 micron (μm) to about 150 micron (μm); Sulfur may have a particle size distribution wherein the D90 is from about 30 micron (μm) to about 100 micron (μm).
Sulfur may have a particle size distribution wherein 50% of the particles (D50) is from about 5 micron (μm) to about 150 micron (μm); Sulfur may have a particle size distribution wherein the D50 is from about 10 micron (μm) to about 100 micron (μm); Sulfur may have a particle size distribution wherein the D50 is from about 15 micron (μm) to about 75 micron (μm); Sulfur may have a particle size distribution wherein the D50 is from about 20 micron (μm) to about 50 micron (μm).
Sulfur may have a particle size distribution wherein 10% of the particles (DI is from about 1 micron (μm) to about 25 micron (μm); Sulfur may have a particle size distribution wherein the D10 is from 5 micron (μm) to about 25 micron (μm); Sulfur may have a particle size distribution wherein the D10 is from about 10 microns (μm) to about 25 micron (μm); Sulfur may have a particle size distribution wherein the D10 is from about 18 micron (μm) to about 25 micron (μm).
Sulfur may be present in a ratio of D(90)/D(10) of from about 3 to about 100; Sulfur may be present in a ratio of D(90)/D(10) of from about 3 to about 50; Sulfur may be present in a ratio of D(90)/D(10) of from about 3 to about 10; Sulfur may be present in a ratio of D(90)/D(10) of from about 3 to about 4.
The sulfur may be present in an amount from about 0.01% to 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.25% to 8%, and from about 0.5% to 6%.
Detersive Surfactant
The hair care composition may comprise greater than about 10% by weight of a surfactant system which provides cleaning performance to the composition, and may be greater than 12% by weight of a surfactant system which provides cleaning performance to the composition. The surfactant system comprises an anionic surfactant and/or a combination of anionic surfactants and/or a combination of anionic surfactants and co-surfactants selected from the group consisting of amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic and mixtures thereof. Various examples and descriptions of detersive surfactants are set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 8,440,605; U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2009/155383; and U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2009/0221463, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
The hair care composition may comprise from about 10% to about 25%, from about 10% to about 18%, from about 10% to about 14%, from about 10% to about 12%, from about 11% to about 20%, from about 12% to about 20%, and/or from about 12% to about 18% by weight of one or more surfactants.
Anionic surfactants suitable for use in the compositions are the alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates. Other suitable anionic surfactants are the water-soluble salts of organic, sulfuric acid reaction products. Still other suitable anionic surfactants are the reaction products of fatty acids esterified with isethionic acid and neutralized with sodium hydroxide. Other similar anionic surfactants are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,486,921; 2,486,922; and 2,396,278, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
Exemplary anionic surfactants for use in the hair care composition include ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, ammonium C10-15 pareth sulfate, ammonium C10-15 alkyl sulfate, ammonium C11-15 alkyl sulfate, ammonium decyl sulfate, ammonium deceth sulfate, ammonium undecyl sulfate, ammonium undeceth sulfate, triethylamine lauryl sulfate, triethylamine laureth sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine laureth sulfate, monoethanolamine lauryl sulfate, monoethanolamine laureth sulfate, diethanolamine lauryl sulfate, diethanolamine laureth sulfate, lauric monoglyceride sodium sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium C10-15 pareth sulfate, sodium C10-15 alkyl sulfate, sodium C11-15 alkyl sulfate, sodium decyl sulfate, sodium deceth sulfate, sodium undecyl sulfate, sodium undeceth sulfate, potassium lauryl sulfate, potassium laureth sulfate, potassium C10-15 pareth sulfate, potassium C10-15 alkyl sulfate, potassium C11-15 alkyl sulfate, potassium decyl sulfate, potassium deceth sulfate, potassium undecyl sulfate, potassium undeceth sulfate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, lauryl sarcosine, cocoyl sarcosine, ammonium cocoyl sulfate, ammonium lauroyl sulfate, sodium cocoyl sulfate, sodium lauroyl sulfate, potassium cocoyl sulfate, potassium lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, monoethanolamine cocoyl sulfate, monoethanolamine lauryl sulfate, sodium tridecyl benzene sulfonate, sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate and combinations thereof. The anionic surfactant may be sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate.
The composition of the present invention can also include anionic surfactants selected from the group consisting of:
a) R1 O(CH2CHR3O)y SO3M;
b) CH3 (CH2)z CHR2CH2 O (CH2CHR3O)y SO3M; and
c) mixtures thereof,
where R1 represents CH3 (CH2)10, R2 represents H or a hydrocarbon radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms such that the sum of the carbon atoms in z and R2 is 8, R3 is H or CH3, y is 0 to 7, the average value of y is about 1 when y is not zero (0), and M is a monovalent or divalent, positively-charged cation.
Suitable anionic alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfate surfactants include, but are not limited to, those having branched alkyl chains which are synthesized from C8 to C18 branched alcohols which may be selected from the group consisting of: Guerbet alcohols, aldol condensation derived alcohols, oxo alcohols, F-T oxo alcohols and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of the 2-alkyl branched alcohols include oxo alcohols such as 2-methyl-1-undecanol, 2-ethyl-1-decanol, 2-propyl-1-nonanol, 2-butyl 1-octanol, 2-methyl-1-dodecanol, 2-ethyl-1-undecanol, 2-propyl-1-decanol, 2-butyl-1-nonanol, 2-pentyl-1-octanol, 2-pentyl-1-heptanol, and those sold under the tradenames LIAL® (Sasol), ISALCHEM® (Sasol), and NEODOL® (Shell), and Guerbet and aldol condensation derived alcohols such as 2-ethyl-1-hexanol, 2-propyl-1-butanol, 2-butyl-1-octanol, 2-butyl-1-decanol, 2-pentyl-1-nonanol, 2-hexyl-1-octanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol and those sold under the tradename ISOFOL® (Sasol) or sold as alcohol ethoxylates and alkoxylates under the tradenames LUTENSOL XP® (BASF) and LUTENSOL XL® (BASF).
The anionic alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates may also include those synthesized from C8 to C18 branched alcohols derived from butylene or propylene which are sold under the trade names EXXAL™ (Exxon) and Marlipal® (Sasol). This includes anionic surfactants of the subclass of sodium trideceth-n sulfates (STnS), where n is between about 0.5 and about 3.5. Exemplary surfactants of this subclass are sodium trideceth-2 sulfate and sodium trideceth-3 sulfate. The composition of the present invention can also include sodium tridecyl sulfate.
The composition of the present invention can also include anionic alkyl and alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and/or dialkyl and dialkyl ether sulfosuccinates and mixtures thereof. The dialkyl and dialkyl ether sulfosuccinates may be a C6-15 linear or branched dialkyl or dialkyl ether sulfosuccinate. The alkyl moieties may be symmetrical (i.e., the same alkyl moieties) or asymmetrical (i.e., different alkyl moieties). Nonlimiting examples include: disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, sodium bistridecyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dihexyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate, sodium diamyl sulfosuccinate, sodium diisobutyl sulfosuccinate, linear bis(tridecyl) sulfosuccinate and mixtures thereof.
Suitable surfactants that are substantially free of sulfates can include sodium, ammonium or potassium salts of isethionates; sodium, ammonium or potassium salts of sulfonates; sodium, ammonium or potassium salts of ether sulfonates; sodium, ammonium or potassium salts of sulfosuccinates; sodium, ammonium or potassium salts of sulfoacetates; sodium, ammonium or potassium salts of glycinates; sodium, ammonium or potassium salts of sarcosinates; sodium, ammonium or potassium salts of glutamates; sodium, ammonium or potassium salts of alaninates; sodium, ammonium or potassium salts of carboxylates; sodium, ammonium or potassium salts of taurates; sodium, ammonium or potassium salts of phosphate esters; and combinations thereof.
“Substantially free” of sulfate based surfactants as used herein means from about 0 wt % to about 3 wt %, alternatively from about 0 wt % to about 2 wt %, alternatively from about 0 wt % to about 1 wt %, alternatively from about 0 wt % to about 0.5 wt %, alternatively from about 0 wt % to about 0.25 wt %, alternatively from about 0 wt % to about 0.1 wt %, alternatively from about 0 wt % to about 0.05 wt %, alternatively from about 0 wt % to about 0.01 wt %, alternatively from about 0 wt % to about 0.001 wt %, and/or alternatively free of sulfates. As used herein, “free of” means 0 wt %.
The hair care composition may comprise a co-surfactant. The co-surfactant can be selected from the group consisting of amphoteric surfactant, zwitterionic surfactant, non-ionic surfactant and mixtures thereof. The co-surfactant can include, but is not limited to, lauramidopropyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, cocamide monoethanolamide and mixtures thereof.
The hair care composition may further comprise from about 0.25% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 14%, from about 2% to about 13% by weight of one or more amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic co-surfactants, or a mixture thereof.
Suitable amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants for use in the hair care composition herein include those which are known for use in shampoo or other hair care cleansing. Non limiting examples of suitable zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,104,646 and 5,106,609, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
Amphoteric co-surfactants suitable for use in the composition include those surfactants described as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical can be straight or branched chain and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate. Suitable amphoteric surfactant include, but are not limited to, those selected from the group consisting of: sodium cocaminopropionate, sodium cocaminodipropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphodiacetate, sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium cornamphopropionate, sodium lauraminopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium cornamphopropionate, sodium lauriminodipropionate, ammonium cocaminopropionate, ammonium cocaminodipropionate, ammonium cocoamphoacetate, ammonium cocoamphodiacetate, ammonium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium cocoamphopropionate, ammonium cocoamphopropionate, ammonium lauraminopropionate, ammonium lauroamphoacetate, ammonium lauroamphodiacetate, ammonium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium cocamphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocaminopropionate, triethanolamine cocaminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocoamphoacetate, triethanolamine cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine cocoamphopropionate, triethanolamine cornamphopropionate, triethanolamine lauraminopropionate, triethanolamine lauroamphoacetate, triethanolamine lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine lauroamphopropionate, triethanolamine cornamphopropionate, triethanolamine lauriminodipropionate, cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphoadipropionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodipriopionate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium dicarboxyethylcocopropylenediamine, disodium laureth-5 carboxyamphodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium PPG-2-isodecethyl-7 carboxyamphodiacetate, lauraminopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, lauryl aminopropylglycine, lauryl diethylenediaminoglycine, and mixtures thereof
The composition may comprises a zwitterionic co-surfactant, wherein the zwitterionic surfactant is a derivative of aliphatic quaternary ammonium, phosphonium, and sulfonium compounds, in which the aliphatic radicals can be straight or branched chain, and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate. The zwitterionic surfactant can be selected from the group consisting of: cocamidoethyl betaine, cocamidopropylamine oxide, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl dimethylaminohydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, cocamidopropyldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocobetaineamido amphopropionate, coco-betaine, coco-hydroxysultaine, coco/oleamidopropyl betaine, coco-sultaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, lauryl sultaine, and mixtures thereof.
Suitable nonionic surfactants for use in the present invention include those described in McCutcheion's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition (1986), Allured Publishing Corp., and McCutcheion's Functional Materials, North American edition (1992). Suitable nonionic surfactants for use in the personal care compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, polyoxyethylenated alkyl phenols, polyoxyethylenated alcohols, polyoxyethylenated polyoxypropylene glycols, glyceryl esters of alkanoic acids, polyglyceryl esters of alkanoic acids, propylene glycol esters of alkanoic acids, sorbitol esters of alkanoic acids, polyoxyethylenated sorbitor esters of alkanoic acids, polyoxyethylene glycol esters of alkanoic acids, polyoxyethylenated alkanoic acids, alkanolamides, N-alkylpyrrolidones, alkyl glycosides, alkyl polyglucosides, alkylamine oxides, and polyoxyethylenated silicones.
The co-surfactant can be a non-ionic surfactant selected from the alkanolamides group including: Cocamide, Cocamide Methyl MEA, Cocamide DEA, Cocamide MEA, Cocamide MIPA, Lauramide DEA, Lauramide MEA, Lauramide MIPA, Myristamide DEA, Myristamide MEA, PEG-20 Cocamide MEA, PEG-2 Cocamide, PEG-3 Cocamide, PEG-4 Cocamide, PEG-5 Cocamide, PEG-6 Cocamide, PEG-7 Cocamide, PEG-3 Lauramide, PEG-5 Lauramide, PEG-3 Oleamide, PPG-2 Cocamide, PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide, PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Isostearamide and mixtures thereof.
Representative polyoxyethylenated alcohols include alkyl chains ranging in the C9-C16 range and having from about 1 to about 110 alkoxy groups including, but not limited to, laureth-3, laureth-23, ceteth-10, steareth-10, steareth-100, beheneth-10, and commercially available from Shell Chemicals, Houston, Tex. under the trade names Neodol® 91, Neodol® 23, Neodol® 25, Neodol® 45, Neodol® 135, Neodol® 67, Neodol® PC 100, Neodol® PC 200, Neodol® PC 600, and mixtures thereof.
Also available commercially are the polyoxyethylene fatty ethers available commercially under the Brij® trade name from Uniqema, Wilmington, Del., including, but not limited to, Brij® 30, Brij® 35, Brij® 52, Brij® 56, Brij® 58, Brij® 72, Brij® 76, Brij® 78, Brij® 93, Brij® 97, Brij® 98, Brij® 721 and mixtures thereof.
Suitable alkyl glycosides and alkyl polyglucosides can be represented by the formula (S)n-O—R wherein S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, and the like; n is an integer of from about 1 to about 1000, and R is a C8-C30 alkyl group. Examples of long chain alcohols from which the alkyl group can be derived include decyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like. Examples of these surfactants include alkyl polyglucosides wherein S is a glucose moiety, R is a C8-20 alkyl group, and n is an integer of from about 1 to about 9. Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decyl polyglucoside and lauryl polyglucoside available under trade names APG® 325 CS, APG® 600 CS and APG® 625 CS) from Cognis, Ambler, Pa. Also useful herein are sucrose ester surfactants such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose laurate and alkyl polyglucosides available under trade names Triton™ BG-10 and Triton™ CG-110 from The Dow Chemical Company, Houston, Tex.
Other nonionic surfactants suitable for use in the present invention are glyceryl esters and polyglyceryl esters, including but not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, glyceryl monoesters of C12-22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, and mixtures thereof, and polyglyceryl esters of C12-22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and mixtures thereof.
Also useful herein as nonionic surfactants are sorbitan esters. Sorbitan esters of C12-22 saturated, unsaturated, and branched chain fatty acids are useful herein. These sorbitan esters usually comprise mixtures of mono-, di-, tri-, etc. esters. Representative examples of suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monolaurate (SPAN® 20), sorbitan monopalmitate (SPAN® 40), sorbitan monostearate (SPAN® 60), sorbitan tristearate (SPAN® 65), sorbitan monooleate (SPAN® 80), sorbitan trioleate (SPAN® 85), and sorbitan isostearate.
Also suitable for use herein are alkoxylated derivatives of sorbitan esters including, but not limited to, polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (Tween® 20), polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monopalmitate (Tween® 40), polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate (Tween® 60), polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate (Tween® 80), polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monolaurate (Tween® 21), polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate (Tween® 61), polyoxyethylene (5) sorbitan monooleate (Tween® 81), and mixtures thereof, all available from Uniqema.
Also suitable for use herein are alkylphenol ethoxylates including, but not limited to, nonylphenol ethoxylates (Tergitol™ NP-4, NP-6, NP-7, NP-8, NP-9, NP-10, NP-11, NP-12, NP-13, NP-15, NP-30, NP-40, NP-50, NP-55, NP-70 available from The Dow Chemical Company, Houston, Tex.) and octylphenol ethoxylates (Triton™ X-15, X-35, X-45, X-114, X-100, X-102, X-165, X-305, X-405, X-705 available from The Dow Chemical Company, Houston, Tex.).
Also suitable for use herein are tertiary alkylamine oxides including lauramine oxide and cocamine oxide.
Non limiting examples of other anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric, and non-ionic additional surfactants suitable for use in the hair care composition are described in McCutcheon's, Emulsifiers and Detergents, 1989 Annual, published by M. C. Publishing Co., and U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,929,678, 2,658,072; 2,438,091; 2,528,378, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
Suitable surfactant combinations comprise an average weight % of alkyl branching of from about 0.5% to about 30%, alternatively from about 1% to about 25%, alternatively from about 2% to about 20%. The surfactant combination can have a cumulative average weight % of C8 to C12 alkyl chain lengths of from about 7.5% to about 25%, alternatively from about 10% to about 22.5%, alternatively from about 10% to about 20%. The surfactant combination can have an average C8-C12/C13-C18 alkyl chain ratio from about 3 to about 200, alternatively from about 25 to about 175.5, alternatively from about 50 to about 150, alternatively from about 75 to about 125.
Cationic Polymers
The hair care composition also comprises a cationic polymer. These cationic polymers can include at least one of (a) a cationic guar polymer, (b) a cationic non-guar galactomannan polymer, (c) a cationic tapioca polymer, (d) a cationic copolymer of acrylamide monomers and cationic monomers, and/or (e) a synthetic, non-crosslinked, cationic polymer, which may or may not form lyotropic liquid crystals upon combination with the detersive surfactant (f) a cationic cellulose polymer. Additionally, the cationic polymer can be a mixture of cationic polymers.
The hair care composition may comprise a cationic guar polymer, which is a cationically substituted galactomannan (guar) gum derivatives. Guar gum for use in preparing these guar gum derivatives is typically obtained as a naturally occurring material from the seeds of the guar plant. The guar molecule itself is a straight chain mannan, which is branched at regular intervals with single membered galactose units on alternative mannose units. The mannose units are linked to each other by means of β(1-4) glycosidic linkages. The galactose branching arises by way of an α(1-6) linkage. Cationic derivatives of the guar gums are obtained by reaction between the hydroxyl groups of the polygalactomannan and reactive quaternary ammonium compounds. The degree of substitution of the cationic groups onto the guar structure should be sufficient to provide the requisite cationic charge density described above.
The cationic polymer may be, including but not limited to a cationic guar polymer, has a weight average Molecular weight of less than 2.2 million g/mol, or from about 150 thousand to about 2.2 million g/mol, or from about 200 thousand to about 2.2 million g/mol, or from about 300 thousand to about 1.2 million g/mol, or from about 750,000 thousand to about 1 million g/mol. The cationic guar polymer may have a charge density of from about 0.2 to about 2.2 meq/g, or from about 0.3 to about 2.0 meq/g, or from about 0.4 to about 1.8 meq/g; or from about 0.5 meq/g to about 1.8 meq/g.
The cationic guar polymer may have a weight average Molecular weight of less than about 1.5 million g/mol, and has a charge density of from about 0.1 meq/g to about 2.5 meq/g. The cationic guar polymer may have a weight average molecular weight of less than 900 thousand g/mol, or from about 150 thousand to about 800 thousand g/mol, or from about 200 thousand to about 700 thousand g/mol, or from about 300 thousand to about 700 thousand g/mol, or from about 400 thousand to about 600 thousand g/mol or from about 150 thousand to about 800 thousand g/mol, or from about 200 thousand to about 700 thousand g/mol, or from about 300 thousand to about 700 thousand g/mol, or from about 400 thousand to about 600 thousand g/mol. The cationic guar polymer may have a charge density of from about 0.2 to about 2.2 meq/g, or from about 0.3 to about 2.0 meq/g, or from about 0.4 to about 1.8 meq/g; or from about 0.5 meq/g to about 1.5 meq/g.
The cationic guar polymer may be formed from quaternary ammonium compounds. The quaternary ammonium compounds for forming the cationic guar polymer may conform to the general formula 1:
wherein where R3, R4 and R5 are methyl or ethyl groups; R6 is either an epoxyalkyl group of the general formula 2:
or R6 is a halohydrin group of the general formula 3:
wherein R7 is a C1 to C3 alkylene; X is chlorine or bromine, and Z is an anion such as Cl—, Br—, I— or HSO4—.
The cationic guar polymer may conform to the general formula 4:
wherein R8 is guar gum; and wherein R4, R5, R6 and R7 are as defined above; and wherein Z is a halogen. The cationic guar polymer may conform to Formula 5:
Suitable cationic guar polymers include cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. The cationic guar polymer may be a guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Specific examples of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides include the Jaguar® series commercially available from Solvay, for example Jaguar® C-500, commercially available from Solvay. Jaguar® C-500 has a charge density of 0.8 meq/g and a molecular weight of 500,000 g/mol. Other suitable guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride are: guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride which has a charge density of about 1.3 meq/g and a molecular weight of about 500,000 g/mol and is available from Solvay as Jaguar® Optima. Other suitable guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride are: guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride which has a charge density of about 0.7 meq/g and a molecular weight of about 1,500,000 g/mol and is available from Solvay as Jaguar® Excel. Other suitable guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride are: guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride which has a charge density of about 1.1 meq/g and a molecular weight of about 500,000 g/mol and is available from ASI, a charge density of about 1.5 meq/g and a molecular weight of about 500,000 g/mole is available from ASI.
Other suitable guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride are: Hi-Care 1000, which has a charge density of about 0.7 meq/g and a Molecular weight of about 600,000 g/mole and is available from Solvay; N-Hance 3269 and N-Hance 3270, which have a charge density of about 0.7 meq/g and a molecular weight of about 425,000 g/mol and are available from ASI; N-Hance 3196, which has a charge density of about 0.8 meq/g and a molecular weight of about 1,100,000 g/mol and is available from ASI. AquaCat CG518 has a charge density of about 0.9 meq/g and a Molecular weight of about 50,000 g/mol and is available from ASI. BF-13, which is a borate (boron) free guar of charge density of about 1 meq/g and molecular weight of about 800,000 and BF-17, which is a borate (boron) free guar of charge density of about 1.5 meq/g and molecular weight of about 800,000, and both are available from ASI.
The hair care compositions of the present invention may comprise a galactomannan polymer derivative having a mannose to galactose ratio of greater than 2:1 on a monomer to monomer basis, the galactomannan polymer derivative selected from the group consisting of a cationic galactomannan polymer derivative and an amphoteric galactomannan polymer derivative having a net positive charge. As used herein, the term “cationic galactomannan” refers to a galactomannan polymer to which a cationic group is added. The term “amphoteric galactomannan” refers to a galactomannan polymer to which a cationic group and an anionic group are added such that the polymer has a net positive charge.
Galactomannan polymers are present in the endosperm of seeds of the Leguminosae family Galactomannan polymers are made up of a combination of mannose monomers and galactose monomers. The galactomannan molecule is a straight chain mannan branched at regular intervals with single membered galactose units on specific mannose units. The mannose units are linked to each other by means of β (1-4) glycosidic linkages. The galactose branching arises by way of an α (1-6) linkage. The ratio of mannose monomers to galactose monomers varies according to the species of the plant and also is affected by climate. Non Guar Galactomannan polymer derivatives of the present invention have a ratio of mannose to galactose of greater than 2:1 on a monomer to monomer basis. Suitable ratios of mannose to galactose can be greater than about 3:1, and the ratio of mannose to galactose can be greater than about 4:1. Analysis of mannose to galactose ratios is well known in the art and is typically based on the measurement of the galactose content.
The gum for use in preparing the non-guar galactomannan polymer derivatives is typically obtained as naturally occurring material such as seeds or beans from plants. Examples of various non-guar galactomannan polymers include but are not limited to Tara gum (3 parts mannose/1 part galactose), Locust bean or Carob (4 parts mannose/1 part galactose), and Cassia gum (5 parts mannose/1 part galactose).
The non-guar galactomannan polymer derivatives may have a M. Wt. from about 1,000 to about 10,000,000, and/or from about 5,000 to about 3,000,000.
The hair care compositions of the invention can also include galactomannan polymer derivatives which have a cationic charge density from about 0.5 meq/g to about 7 meq/g. The galactomannan polymer derivatives can have a cationic charge density from about 1 meq/g to about 5 meq/g. The degree of substitution of the cationic groups onto the galactomannan structure should be sufficient to provide the requisite cationic charge density.
The galactomannan polymer derivative can be a cationic derivative of the non-guar galactomannan polymer, which is obtained by reaction between the hydroxyl groups of the polygalactomannan polymer and reactive quaternary ammonium compounds. Suitable quaternary ammonium compounds for use in forming the cationic galactomannan polymer derivatives include those conforming to the general formulas 1-5, as defined above.
Cationic non-guar galactomannan polymer derivatives formed from the reagents described above are represented by the general formula 6:
wherein R is the gum. The cationic galactomannan derivative can be a gum hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, which can be more specifically represented by the general formula 7:
Alternatively the galactomannan polymer derivative can be an amphoteric galactomannan polymer derivative having a net positive charge, obtained when the cationic galactomannan polymer derivative further comprises an anionic group.
The cationic non-guar galactomannan can have a ratio of mannose to galactose is greater than about 4:1, a molecular weight of about 1,000 g/mol to about 10,000,000 g/mol, and/or from about 50,000 g/mol to about 1,000,000 g/mol, and/or from about 100,000 g/mol to about 900,000 g/mol, and/or from about 150,000 g/mol to about 400,000 g/mol and a cationic charge density from about 1 meq/g to about 5 meq/g, and/or from 2 meq/g to about 4 meq/g and can be derived from a Cassia plant.
The hair care compositions can comprise water-soluble cationically modified starch polymers. As used herein, the term “cationically modified starch” refers to a starch to which a cationic group is added prior to degradation of the starch to a smaller molecular weight, or wherein a cationic group is added after modification of the starch to achieve a desired molecular weight. The definition of the term “cationically modified starch” also includes amphoterically modified starch. The term “amphoterically modified starch” refers to a starch hydrolysate to which a cationic group and an anionic group are added.
The cationically modified starch polymers disclosed herein have a percent of bound nitrogen of from about 0.5% to about 4%.
The cationically modified starch polymers for use in the hair care compositions can have a molecular weight about 850,000 g/mol to about 1,500,000 g/mol and/or from about 900,000 g/mol to about 1,500,000 g/mol.
The hair care compositions can include cationically modified starch polymers which have a charge density of from about 0.2 meq/g to about 5 meq/g, and/or from about 0.2 meq/g to about 2 meq/g. The chemical modification to obtain such a charge density includes, but is not limited to, the addition of amino and/or ammonium groups into the starch molecules. Non-limiting examples of these ammonium groups may include substituents such as hydroxypropyl trimmonium chloride, trimethylhydroxypropyl ammonium chloride, dimethylstearylhydroxypropyl ammonium chloride, and dimethyldodecylhydroxypropyl ammonium chloride. See Solarek, D. B., Cationic Starches in Modified Starches: Properties and Uses, Wurzburg, O. B., Ed., CRC Press, Inc., Boca Raton, Fla. 1986, pp 113-125. The cationic groups may be added to the starch prior to degradation to a smaller molecular weight or the cationic groups may be added after such modification.
The cationically modified starch polymers generally have a degree of substitution of a cationic group from about 0.2 to about 2.5. As used herein, the “degree of substitution” of the cationically modified starch polymers is an average measure of the number of hydroxyl groups on each anhydroglucose unit which is derivatized by substituent groups. Since each anhydroglucose unit has three potential hydroxyl groups available for substitution, the maximum possible degree of substitution is 3. The degree of substitution is expressed as the number of moles of substituent groups per mole of anhydroglucose unit, on a molar average basis. The degree of substitution may be determined using proton nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (“.sup.1H NMR”) methods well known in the art. Suitable .sup.1H NMR techniques include those described in “Observation on NMR Spectra of Starches in Dimethyl Sulfoxide, Iodine-Complexing, and Solvating in Water-Dimethyl Sulfoxide”, Qin-Ji Peng and Arthur S. Perlin, Carbohydrate Research, 160 (1987), 57-72; and “An Approach to the Structural Analysis of Oligosaccharides by NMR Spectroscopy”, J. Howard Bradbury and J. Grant Collins, Carbohydrate Research, 71, (1979), 15-25.
The source of starch before chemical modification can be chosen from a variety of sources such as tubers, legumes, cereal, and grains. Non-limiting examples of this source starch may include corn starch, wheat starch, rice starch, waxy corn starch, oat starch, cassava starch, waxy barley, waxy rice starch, glutenous rice starch, sweet rice starch, amioca, potato starch, tapioca starch, oat starch, sago starch, sweet rice, or mixtures thereof.
The cationically modified starch polymers can be selected from degraded cationic maize starch, cationic tapioca, cationic potato starch, and mixtures thereof. Alternatively, the cationically modified starch polymers are cationic corn starch and cationic tapioca.
The starch, prior to degradation or after modification to a smaller molecular weight, may comprise one or more additional modifications. For example, these modifications may include cross-linking, stabilization reactions, phosphorylations, and hydrolyzations. Stabilization reactions may include alkylation and esterification.
The cationically modified starch polymers may be incorporated into the composition in the form of hydrolyzed starch (e.g., acid, enzyme, or alkaline degradation), oxidized starch (e.g., peroxide, peracid, hypochlorite, alkaline, or any other oxidizing agent), physically/mechanically degraded starch (e.g., via the thermo-mechanical energy input of the processing equipment), or combinations thereof.
An optimal form of the starch is one which is readily soluble in water and forms a substantially clear (% Transmittance of about 80 at 600 nm) solution in water. The transparency of the composition is measured by Ultra-Violet/Visible (UV/VIS) spectrophotometry, which determines the absorption or transmission of UV/VIS light by a sample, using a Gretag Macbeth Colorimeter Color i 5 according to the related instructions. A light wavelength of 600 nm has been shown to be adequate for characterizing the degree of clarity of cosmetic compositions.
Suitable cationically modified starch for use in hair care compositions are available from known starch suppliers. Also suitable for use in hair care compositions are nonionic modified starch that can be further derivatized to a cationically modified starch as is known in the art. Other suitable modified starch starting materials may be quaternized, as is known in the art, to produce the cationically modified starch polymer suitable for use in hair care compositions.
Starch Degradation Procedure: a starch slurry can be prepared by mixing granular starch in water. The temperature is raised to about 35° C. An aqueous solution of potassium permanganate is then added at a concentration of about 50 ppm based on starch. The pH is raised to about 11.5 with sodium hydroxide and the slurry is stirred sufficiently to prevent settling of the starch. Then, about a 30% solution of hydrogen peroxide diluted in water is added to a level of about 1% of peroxide based on starch. The pH of about 11.5 is then restored by adding additional sodium hydroxide. The reaction is completed over about a 1 to about 20 hour period. The mixture is then neutralized with dilute hydrochloric acid. The degraded starch is recovered by filtration followed by washing and drying.
The hair care composition can comprise a cationic copolymer of an acrylamide monomer and a cationic monomer, wherein the copolymer has a charge density of from about 1.0 meq/g to about 3.0 meq/g. The cationic copolymer can be a synthetic cationic copolymer of acrylamide monomers and cationic monomers.
The cationic copolymer can comprise:
where k=1, each of v, v′, and v″ is independently an integer of from 1 to 6, w is zero or an integer of from 1 to 10, and X− is an anion.
The cationic monomer can conform to Formula CM and where k=1, v=3 and w=0, z=1 and X− is Cl− to form the following structure:
The above structure may be referred to as diquat. Alternatively, the cationic monomer can conform to Formula CM and wherein v and v″ are each 3, v′=1, w=1, y=1 and X− is Cl−, such as:
The above structure may be referred to as triquat.
Suitable acrylamide monomer include, but are not limited to, either acrylamide or methacrylamide.
The cationic copolymer (b) can be AM:TRIQUAT which is a copolymer of acrylamide and 1,3-Propanediaminium, N-[2-[[[dimethyl[3-[(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propyl]ammonio]acetyl]amino]ethyl]2-hydroxy-N,N,N′,N′,N-pentamethyl-, trichloride. AM:TRIQUAT is also known as polyquaternium-76 (PQ76). AM:TRIQUAT may have a charge density of 1.6 meq/g and a molecular weight of 1.1 million g/mol.
The cationic copolymer may be of an acrylamide monomer and a cationic monomer, wherein the cationic monomer is selected from the group consisting of: dimethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylate, ditertiobutylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminomethyl (meth)acrylamide, dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylamide; ethylenimine, vinylamine, 2-vinylpyridine, 4-vinylpyridine; trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate chloride, trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate methyl sulphate, dimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate benzyl chloride, 4-benzoylbenzyl dimethylammonium ethyl acrylate chloride, trimethyl ammonium ethyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, trimethyl ammonium propyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, vinylbenzyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
The cationic copolymer can comprise a cationic monomer selected from the group consisting of: cationic monomers include trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate chloride, trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate methyl sulphate, dimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate benzyl chloride, 4-benzoylbenzyl dimethylammonium ethyl acrylate chloride, trimethyl ammonium ethyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, trimethyl ammonium propyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, vinylbenzyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
The cationic copolymer can be water-soluble. The cationic copolymer is formed from (1) copolymers of (meth)acrylamide and cationic monomers based on (meth)acrylamide, and/or hydrolysis-stable cationic monomers, (2) terpolymers of (meth)acrylamide, monomers based on cationic (meth)acrylic acid esters, and monomers based on (meth)acrylamide, and/or hydrolysis-stable cationic monomers. Monomers based on cationic (meth)acrylic acid esters may be cationized esters of the (meth)acrylic acid containing a quaternized N atom. The cationized esters of the (meth)acrylic acid containing a quaternized N atom may be quaternized dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylates with C1 to C3 in the alkyl and alkylene groups. Suitable cationized esters of the (meth)acrylic acid containing a quaternized N atom can be selected from the group consisting of: ammonium salts of dimethylaminomethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylate, diethylaminomethyl (meth)acrylate, diethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate; and diethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylate quaternized with methyl chloride. The cationized esters of the (meth)acrylic acid containing a quaternized N atom may be dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, which is quaternized with an alkyl halide, or with methyl chloride or benzyl chloride or dimethyl sulfate (ADAME-Quat). the cationic monomer when based on (meth)acrylamides can be quaternized dialkylaminoalkyl(meth)acrylamides with C1 to C3 in the alkyl and alkylene groups, or dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, which is quaternized with an alkyl halide, or methyl chloride or benzyl chloride or dimethyl sulfate.
Suitable cationic monomer based on a (meth)acrylamide include quaternized dialkylaminoalkyl(meth)acrylamide with C1 to C3 in the alkyl and alkylene groups. The cationic monomer based on a (meth)acrylamide can be dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, which is quaternized with an alkyl halide, especially methyl chloride or benzyl chloride or dimethyl sulfate.
The cationic monomer can be a hydrolysis-stable cationic monomer. Hydrolysis-stable cationic monomers can be, in addition to a dialkylaminoalkyl(meth)acrylamide, all monomers that can be regarded as stable to the OECD hydrolysis test. The cationic monomer can be hydrolysis-stable and the hydrolysis-stable cationic monomer can be selected from the group consisting of: diallyldimethylammonium chloride and water-soluble, cationic styrene derivatives.
The cationic copolymer can be a terpolymer of acrylamide, 2-dimethylammoniumethyl (meth)acrylate quaternized with methyl chloride (ADAME-Q) and 3-dimethylammoniumpropyl(meth)acrylamide quaternized with methyl chloride (DIMAPA-Q). The cationic copolymer can be formed from acrylamide and acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, wherein the acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride has a charge density of from about 1.0 meq/g to about 3.0 meq/g.
The cationic copolymer can have a charge density of from about 1.1 meq/g to about 2.5 meq/g, or from about 1.1 meq/g to about 2.3 meq/g, or from about 1.2 meq/g to about 2.2 meq/g, or from about 1.2 meq/g to about 2.1 meq/g, or from about 1.3 meq/g to about 2.0 meq/g, or from about 1.3 meq/g to about 1.9 meq/g.
The cationic copolymer can have a molecular weight from about 100 thousand g/mol to about 1.5 million g/mol, or from about 300 thousand g/mol to about 1.5 million g/mol, or from about 500 thousand g/mol to about 1.5 million g/mol, or from about 700 thousand g/mol to about 1.0 million g/mol, or from about 900 thousand g/mol to about 1.2 million g/mol.
The cationic copolymer can be a trimethylammoniopropylmethacrylamide chloride-N-Acrylamide copolymer, which is also known as AM:MAPTAC. AM:MAPTAC may have a charge density of about 1.3 meq/g and a molecular weight of about 1.1 million g/mol. The cationic copolymer can be AM:ATPAC. AM:ATPAC can have a charge density of about 1.8 meq/g and a molecular weight of about 1.1 million g/mol.
The hair care composition can comprise a cationic synthetic polymer that may be formed from
The cationic polymers can be water soluble or dispersible, non-crosslinked, and synthetic cationic polymers having the following structure:
where A, may be one or more of the following cationic moieties:
where @=amido, alkylamido, ester, ether, alkyl or alkylaryl;
where Y=C1-C22 alkyl, alkoxy, alkylidene, alkyl or aryloxy;
where ψ=C1-C22 alkyl, alkyloxy, alkyl aryl or alkyl arylox;
where Z=C1-C22 alkyl, alkyloxy, aryl or aryloxy;
where R1=H, C1-C4 linear or branched alkyl;
where s=0 or 1, n=0 or ≥1;
where T and R7=C1-C22 alkyl; and
where X-=halogen, hydroxide, alkoxide, sulfate or alkylsulfate.
Where the monomer bearing a negative charge is defined by R2′=H, C1-C4 linear or branched alkyl and R3 as:
where D=O, N, or S;
where Q=NH2 or 0;
where u=1-6;
where t=0-1; and
where J=oxygenated functional group containing the following elements P, S, C.
Where the nonionic monomer is defined by R2″=H, C1-C4 linear or branched alkyl, R6=linear or branched alkyl, alkyl aryl, aryl oxy, alkyloxy, alkylaryl oxy and β is defined as
and
where G′ and G″ are, independently of one another, O, S or N—H and L=0 or 1.
Examples of cationic monomers include aminoalkyl (meth)acrylates, (meth)aminoalkyl (meth)acrylamides; monomers comprising at least one secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine function, or a heterocyclic group containing a nitrogen atom, vinylamine or ethylenimine; diallyldialkyl ammonium salts; their mixtures, their salts, and macromonomers deriving from therefrom.
Further examples of cationic monomers include dimethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylate, ditertiobutylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, dimethylaminomethyl (meth)acrylamide, dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylamide, ethylenimine, vinylamine, 2-vinylpyridine, 4-vinylpyridine, trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate chloride, trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate methyl sulphate, dimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate benzyl chloride, 4-benzoylbenzyl dimethylammonium ethyl acrylate chloride, trimethyl ammonium ethyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, trimethyl ammonium propyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, vinylbenzyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride.
Suitable cationic monomers include those which comprise a quaternary ammonium group of formula —NR3+, wherein R, which is identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, or a benzyl group, optionally carrying a hydroxyl group, and comprise an anion (counter-ion). Examples of anions are halides such as chlorides, bromides, sulphates, hydrosulphates, alkylsulphates (for example comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms), phosphates, citrates, formates, and acetates.
Suitable cationic monomers include trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate chloride, trimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate methyl sulphate, dimethylammonium ethyl (meth)acrylate benzyl chloride, 4-benzoylbenzyl dimethylammonium ethyl acrylate chloride, trimethyl ammonium ethyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, trimethyl ammonium propyl (meth)acrylamido chloride, vinylbenzyl trimethyl ammonium chloride.
Additional suitable cationic monomers include trimethyl ammonium propyl (meth)acrylamido chloride.
Examples of monomers bearing a negative charge include alpha ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising a phosphate or phosphonate group, alpha ethylenically unsaturated monocarboxylic acids, monoalkylesters of alpha ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, monoalkylamides of alpha ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, alpha ethylenically unsaturated compounds comprising a sulphonic acid group, and salts of alpha ethylenically unsaturated compounds comprising a sulphonic acid group.
Suitable monomers with a negative charge include acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, vinyl sulphonic acid, salts of vinyl sulfonic acid, vinylbenzene sulphonic acid, salts of vinylbenzene sulphonic acid, alpha-acrylamidomethylpropanesulphonic acid, salts of alpha-acrylamidomethylpropanesulphonic acid, 2-sulphoethyl methacrylate, salts of 2-sulphoethyl methacrylate, acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS), salts of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, and styrenesulphonate (SS).
Examples of nonionic monomers include vinyl acetate, amides of alpha ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids, esters of an alpha ethylenically unsaturated monocarboxylic acids with an hydrogenated or fluorinated alcohol, polyethylene oxide (meth)acrylate (i.e. polyethoxylated (meth)acrylic acid), monoalkylesters of alpha ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, monoalkylamides of alpha ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, vinyl nitriles, vinylamine amides, vinyl alcohol, vinyl pyrolidone, and vinyl aromatic compounds.
Suitable nonionic monomers include styrene, acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylonitrile, methylacrylate, ethylacrylate, n-propylacrylate, n-butylacrylate, methylmethacrylate, ethylmethacrylate, n-propylmethacrylate, n-butylmethacrylate, 2-ethyl-hexyl acrylate, 2-ethyl-hexyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxyethylacrylate and 2-hydroxyethylmethacrylate.
The anionic counterion (X—) in association with the synthetic cationic polymers may be any known counterion so long as the polymers remain soluble or dispersible in water, in the hair care composition, or in a coacervate phase of the hair care composition, and so long as the counterions are physically and chemically compatible with the essential components of the hair care composition or do not otherwise unduly impair product performance, stability or aesthetics. Non limiting examples of such counterions include halides (e.g., chlorine, fluorine, bromine, iodine), sulfate and methylsulfate.
The cationic polymer described herein can aid in providing damaged hair, particularly chemically treated hair, with a surrogate hydrophobic F-layer. The microscopically thin F-layer provides natural weatherproofing, while helping to seal in moisture and prevent further damage. Chemical treatments damage the hair cuticle and strip away its protective F-layer. As the F-layer is stripped away, the hair becomes increasingly hydrophilic. It has been found that when lyotropic liquid crystals are applied to chemically treated hair, the hair becomes more hydrophobic and more virgin-like, in both look and feel. Without being limited to any theory, it is believed that the lyotropic liquid crystal complex creates a hydrophobic layer or film, which coats the hair fibers and protects the hair, much like the natural F-layer protects the hair. The hydrophobic layer returns the hair to a generally virgin-like, healthier state. Lyotropic liquid crystals are formed by combining the synthetic cationic polymers described herein with the aforementioned anionic detersive surfactant component of the hair care composition. The synthetic cationic polymer has a relatively high charge density. It should be noted that some synthetic polymers having a relatively high cationic charge density do not form lyotropic liquid crystals, primarily due to their abnormal linear charge densities. Such synthetic cationic polymers are described in WO 94/06403 to Reich et al. The synthetic polymers described herein can be formulated in a stable hair care composition that provides improved conditioning performance, with respect to damaged hair.
Cationic synthetic polymers that can form lyotropic liquid crystals have a cationic charge density of from about 2 meq/gm to about 7 meq/gm, and/or from about 3 meq/gm to about 7 meq/gm, and/or from about 4 meq/gm to about 7 meq/gm. The cationic charge density may be about 6.2 meq/gm. The polymers also have a M. Wt. of from about 1,000 to about 5,000,000, and/or from about 10,000 to about 1,500,000, and/or from about 100,000 to about 1,500,000.
In the invention cationic synthetic polymers that provide enhanced conditioning and deposition of benefit agents but do not necessarily form lyotropic liquid crystals may have a cationic charge density of from about 0.7 meq/gm to about 7 meq/gm, and/or from about 0.8 meq/gm to about 5 meq/gm, and/or from about 1.0 meq/gm to about 3 meq/gm. The polymers may also have a M. Wt. of from about 1,000 to about 1,500,000, from about 10,000 to about 1,500,000, and from about 100,000 to about 1,500,000.
Suitable cationic cellulose polymers are salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-10 and available from Dow/Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) in their Polymer LR, JR, and KG series of polymers. Non-limiting examples include: JR-30M, KG-30M, JP, LR-400 and mixtures thereof. Other suitable types of cationic cellulose include the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-24. These materials are available from Dow/Amerchol Corp. under the tradename Polymer LM-200. Other suitable types of cationic cellulose include the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide and trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-67. These materials are available from Dow/Amerchol Corp. under the tradename SoftCAT Polymer SL-5, SoftCAT Polymer SL-30, Polymer SL-60, Polymer SL-100, Polymer SK-L, Polymer SK-M, Polymer SK-MH, and Polymer SK-H.
The concentration of the cationic polymers ranges about 0.025% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, and/or from about 0.2% to about 1%, by weight of the hair care composition.
Stabilizing Polymers
The personal care composition can comprise a stabilizing polymer to increase the viscosity or yield stress of the composition. Suitable stabilizing polymers can be used. The hair care composition can comprise from about 0.05% to 10% and 0.1% to about 9% of a stabilizing, from about 0.4% to about 8% of a stabilizing polymer, from about 0.7% to about 5% of a stabilizing modifying polymer, and from about 1% to about 2.5% of a stabilizing polymer. The stabilizing polymer modifier may be a polyacrylate, polyacrylamide thickeners. The stabilizing polymer may be an anionic stabilizing polymer.
The hair personal care composition may comprise stabilizing polymers that are homopolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or other related derivatives, non-limiting examples include polyacrylate, polymethacrylate, polyethylacrylate, and polyacrylamide.
The stabilizing polymers may be alkali swellable and hydrophobically-modified alkali swellable acrylic copolymers or methacrylate copolymers, non-limiting examples include acrylic acid/acrylonitrogens copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, Acrylates/Aminoacrylates/C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer, acrylates/aminoacrylates copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate/HEMA crosspolymer, acrylates/vinyl neodecanoate crosspolymer, acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylic Acid/Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonic Acid Copolymer, and acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.
The stabilizing polymer may be soluble crosslinked acrylic polymers, a non-limiting example includes carbomers.
The stabilizing polymer may be an associative polymeric thickeners, non-limiting examples include: hydrophobically modified, alkali swellable emulsions, non-limiting examples include hydrophobically modified polypolyacrylates; hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acids, and hydrophobically modified polyacrylamides; hydrophobically modified polyethers wherein these materials may have a hydrophobe that can be selected from cetyl, stearyl, oleayl, and combinations thereof.
The stabilizing polymer may be used in combination with polyvinylpyrrolidone, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone and derivatives. The stabilizing polymer may be combined with polyvinyalcohol and derivatives. The stabilizing polymer may be combined with polyethyleneimine and derivatives.
The stabilizing polymers may be combined with alginic acid based matertials, non-limiting examples include sodium alginate, and alginic acid propylene glycol esters.
The stabilizing polymer may be used in combination with polyurethane polymers, non-limiting examples include: hydrophobically modified alkoxylated urethane polymers, non-limiting examples include PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer, PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer, polyurethane-39.
The stabilizing polymer may be combined with an associative polymeric thickeners, non-limiting examples include: hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives; and a hydrophilic portion of repeating ethylene oxide groups with repeat units from 10-300, from 30-200, and from 40-150. Non-limiting examples of this class include PEG-120-methylglucose dioleate, PEG-(40 or 60) sorbitan tetraoleate, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-150 distearate.
The stabilizing polymer may be combined with cellulose and derivatives, including cellulose gums, non-limiting examples include microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethyl cellulose; nitro cellulose; cellulose sulfate; cellulose powder; hydrophobically modified celluloses.
The stabilizing polymer may be combined with a guar and guar derivatives, non-limiting examples include hydroxypropyl guar, and hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride.
The stabilizing polymer may be combined with polyethylene oxide; polypropylene oxide; and POE-PPO copolymers.
The stabilizing polymer may be combined with polyalkylene glycols characterized by the general formula:
wherein R is hydrogen, methyl, or mixtures thereof, preferably hydrogen, and n is an integer having an average from 2,000-180,000, or from 7,000-90,000, or from 7,000-45,000. Non-limiting examples of this class include PEG-7M, PEG-14M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-90M, or PEG-100M.
The stabilizing polymer may be combined with silicas, non-limiting examples include fumed silica, precipitated silica, and silicone-surface treated silica.
The stabilizing polymer may be combined with water-swellable clays, non-limiting examples include laponite, bentolite, montmorilonite, smectite, and hectonite.
The stabilizing polymer may be combined with gums, non-limiting examples include xanthan gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, Arabia gum, tragacanth, galactan, carob gum, karaya gum, and locust bean gum.
The stabilizing polymer may be combined with, dibenzylidene sorbitol, karaggenan, pectin, agar, quince seed (Cydonia oblonga Mill), starch (from rice, corn, potato, wheat, etc), starch-derivatives (e.g. carboxymethyl starch, methylhydroxypropyl starch), algae extracts, dextran, succinoglucan, and pulleran,
Non-limiting examples of stabilizing polymer include acrylamide/ammonium acrylate copolymer (and) polyisobutene (and) polysorbate 20; acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, acrylates copolymer, Acrylates Crosspolymer-4, Acrylates Crosspolymer-3, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, ammonium polyacrylate/Isohexadecane/PEG-40 castor oil; carbomer, sodium carbomer, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7, polyacrylate 13/polyisobutene/polysorbate 20, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, polyamide-3, polyquaternium-37 (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) trideceth-6, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethyltaurate/dimethylacrylamide, crosspolymer (and) isohexadecane (and) polysorbate 60, sodium polyacrylate. Exemplary commercially-available stabilizing polymers include ACULYN™ 28, ACULYN™ 88, ACULYN™ 33, ACULYN™ 22, ACULYN™ Excel, Carbopol® Aqua SF-1, Carbopol® ETD 2020, Carbopol® Ultrez 20, Carbopol® Ultrez 21, Carbopol® Ultrez 10, Carbopol® Ultrez 30, Carbopol® 1342, Carbopol® Aqua SF-2 Polymer, Sepigel™ 305, Simulgel™ 600, Sepimax Zen, Carbopol® SMART 1000, Rheocare® TTA, Rheomer® SC-Plus, STRUCTURE® PLUS, Aristoflex® AVC, Stabylen 30, and combinations thereof.
Suspending Wax
Suspending waxes includes suitable stabilizing agents that increase yield stress and viscosity. Such materials may include monoester and/or diester of alkylene glycols having the formula:
wherein R1 is linear or branched C12-C22 alkyl group;
R is linear or branched C2-C4 alkylene group;
P is selected from H, C1-C4 alkyl or —COR2, R2 is C4-C22 alkyl, or may be C12-C22 alkyl; and
n=1-3.
In the present invention, the long chain fatty ester may have the general structure described above, wherein R1 is linear or branched C16-C22 alkyl group, R is —CH2—CH2—, and P is selected from H, or —COR2, wherein R2 is C4-C22 alkyl, or may be C12-C22 alkyl.
Typical examples are monoesters and/or diesters of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, triethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol with fatty acids containing from about 6 to about 22, from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethyhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid, and mixtures thereof.
In the present invention, ethylene glycol monostearate (EGMS) and/or ethylene glycol distearate (EGDS) and/or polyethylene glycol monostearate (PGMS) and/or polyethyleneglycol distearate (PGDS) may be suspending waxes used in the composition. There are several commercial sources for these materials. For Example, PEG6000MS® is available from Stepan, Empilan EGDS/A® is available from Albright & Wilson.
Traditionally glyceride ester compounds may be used as a structurant for personal care compositions. For example, Thixcin® R is trihydroxystearin, a commercial hydrogenated castor oil produced by Elementis Specialties of New Jersey, and marketed as a stabilizer and structurant for personal care compositions. Suitable glyceride esters for the personal care compositions described herein can be selected from any crystallizable glyceride esters which can allow for the formation of a coacervate in personal care compositions including a suitable surfactant and a cationic polymer. For example, suitable glyceride esters are hydrogenated castor oils such as trihydroxystearin or dihydroxystearin.
Examples of additional crystallizable glyceride esters can include the substantially pure triglyceride of 12-hydroxystearic acid. 12-hydroxystearic acid is the pure form of a fully hydrogenated triglyceride of 12-hydrox-9-cis-octadecenoic acid. As can be appreciated, many additional glyceride esters are possible. For example, variations in the hydrogenation process and natural variations in castor oil can enable the production of additional suitable glyceride esters from castor oil.
Suitable glyceride esters can also be formed from mixtures of one or more glycerides. For example, a mixture of glycerides including about 80% or more, by weight of the mixture, castor oil, can be suitable. Other suitable mixtures can include mixtures of only triglycerides, mixtures of diglycerides and triglycerides, mixtures of triglycerides with diglycerides and limited amounts, e.g., less than about 20%, by weight of the mixture, of monoglyerides; or any mixture thereof which includes about 20% or less, by weight of the mixture, of a corresponding acid hydrolysis product of any of the glycerides. About 80% or more, by weight of a mixture, can be chemically identical to a glyceride of fully hydrogenated ricinoleic acid, i.e., glyceride of 12-hydroxystearic acid. Hydrogenated castor oil can be modified such that in a given triglyceride, there will be two 12-hydroxystearic moieties and one stearic moiety. Alternatively, partial hydrogenation can be used. However, poly(oxyalkylated) castor oils are not suitable because they have unsuitable melting points.
Castor oils include glycerides, especially triglycerides, comprising C10 to C 22 alkyl or alkenyl moieties which incorporate a hydroxyl group. Hydrogenation of castor oil produces hydrogenated castor oil by converting double bonds, which are present in the starting oil as ricinoleyl moieties. These moieties are converted to ricinoleyl moieties, which are saturated hydroxyalkyl moieties, e.g., hydroxystearyl. The hydrogenated castor oil (HCO) herein may, be selected from: trihydroxystearin; dihydroxystearin; and mixtures thereof. The HCO may be processed in any suitable starting form, including, but not limited those selected from solid, molten and mixtures thereof. Useful HCO may have the following characteristics: a melting point of from about 40° C. to about 100° C., alternatively from about 65° C. to about 95° C.; and/or Iodine value ranges of from about 0 to about 5, alternatively from about 0 to about 4, and alternatively from about 0 to about 2.6. The melting point of HCO can measured using DSC: Differential Scanning calorimetry.
Suitable HCO include those that are commercially available. Non-limiting examples of commercially available HCO suitable for use include: THIXCIN-R® (supplied by Elementis), which is supplied as a powder having small particles (99 weight % smaller than of 44 micrometers).
The invention is not intended to be directed only to the use of hydrogenated castor oil. Any other suitable crystallizable glyceride may be used. In one example, the structurant is substantially pure triglyceride of 12-hydroxystearic acid. This molecule represents the pure form of a fully hydrogenated triglyceride of 12-hydrox-9-cis-octadecenoic acid. In nature, the composition of castor oil may vary somewhat. Likewise hydrogenation procedures may vary. Any other suitable equivalent materials, such as mixtures of triglycerides wherein at least about 80% wt. is from castor oil, may be used. Exemplary equivalent materials comprise primarily, or consist of, triglycerides; or comprise primarily, or consist of, mixtures of diglycerides and triglycerides; or comprise primarily, or consist of, mixtures of triglyerides with diglycerides and limited amounts, e.g., less than about 20% wt. of the glyceride mixtures, of monoglyerides; or comprise primarily, or consist of, any of the foregoing glycerides with limited amounts, e.g., less than about 20% wt., of the corresponding acid hydrolysis product of any of said glycerides.
The stabilizing premix comprises from about 4% to about 30% by weight of the personal care composition of a 100% active stabilizing agent. In the present invention, the stabilizing premix may comprise from about 15% to about 25% of stabilizing agent.
The suspending wax may be in the present invention from about 0.01% to about 4%; the suspending wax may be in the present invention from about 0.1% to about 3%; the suspending wax may be in the present invention from about 0.5% to about 2%; suspending wax may be in the present invention from about 0.3% to about 1.5%.
Water Miscible Solvents
The carrier of the hair care composition may include water and water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, ketones having from 3 to 4 carbons atoms, C1-C6 esters of C1-C6 alcohols, sulfoxides, amides, carbonate esters, ethoxylated and proposylated C1-C10 alcohols, lactones, pyrollidones, and mixtures thereof. Non-limited lower alkyl alcohol examples are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, such as ethanol and isopropanol. Non-limiting examples of polyhydric alcohols useful herein include propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylenes glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, propane diol and mixtures thereof.
In present invention, the hair care composition may comprise a hydrotrope/viscosity modifier which is an alkali metal or ammonium salt of a lower alkyl benzene sulphonate such as sodium xylene sulphonate, sodium cumene sulphonate or sodium toluene sulphonate.
In the present invention, the hair care composition may comprise silicone/PEG-8 silicone/PEG-9 silicone/PEG-n silicone/silicone ether (n could be another integer), non-limiting examples include PEGS-dimethicone A208) MW 855, PEG 8 Dimethicone D208 MW 2706.
Scalp Health Agents
In the present invention, one or more scalp health agent may be added to provide scalp benefits in addition to the anti-fungal/anti-dandruff efficacy provided by sulfur. This group of materials is varied and provides a wide range of benefits including moisturization, barrier improvement, anti-fungal, anti-microbial and anti-oxidant, anti-itch, and sensates, and additional anti-dandruff agents such as polyvalent metal salts of pyrithione, non-limiting examples include zinc pyrithione (ZPT) and copper pyrithione, or selenium sulfide. Such scalp health agents include but are not limited to: vitamin E and F, salicylic acid, niacinamide, caffeine, panthenol, zinc oxide, zinc carbonate, basic zinc carbonate, glycols, glycolic acid, PCA, PEGs, erythritol, glycerin, triclosan, lactates, hyaluronates, allantoin and other ureas, betaines, sorbitol, glutamates, xylitols, menthol, menthyl lactate, iso cyclomone, benzyl alcohol, a compound comprising the following structure:
The composition may further comprise one or more of the following scalp health agents including coal tar, charcoal, whitfield's ointment, castellani's paint, aluminum chloride, gentian violet, octopirox (piroctone olamine), ciclopirox olamine, undecylenic acid and its metal salts, azoxystrobin and other strobulins, potassium permanganate, sodium thiosulfate, propylene glycol, oil of bitter orange, urea preparations, griseofulvin, 8-hydroxyquinoline ciloquinol, thiobendazole, thiocarbamates, haloprogin, polyenes, hydroxypyridone, morpholine, benzylamine, allylamines (such as terbinafine), tea tree oil, clove leaf oil, coriander, palmarosa, berberine, thyme red, cinnamon oil, cinnamic aldehyde, citronellic acid, hinokitol, ichthyol pale, Sensiva SC-50, Elestab HP-100, azelaic acid, lyticase, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (IPBC), isothiazalinones such as octyl isothiazalinone, and azoles, itraconazole, ketoconazole benzimidazole, benzothiazole, bifonazole, butaconazole nitrate, climbazole, clotrimazole, croconazole, eberconazole, econazole, elubiol, fenticonazole, fluconazole, flutimazole, isoconazole, ketoconazole, lanoconazole, metronidazole, miconazole, neticonazole, omoconazole, oxiconazole nitrate, sertaconazole, sulconazole nitrate, tioconazole, thiazole, terconazole and mixtures thereof.
Optional Ingredients
In the present invention, the hair care composition may further comprise one or more optional ingredients, including benefit agents. Suitable benefit agents include, but are not limited to conditioning agents, cationic polymers, silicone emulsions, anti-dandruff agents, gel networks, chelating agents, and natural oils such as sun flower oil or castor oil. Additional suitable optional ingredients include but are not limited to perfumes, perfume microcapsules, colorants, particles, anti-microbials, foam busters, anti-static agents, rheology modifiers and thickeners, suspension materials and structurants, pH adjusting agents and buffers, preservatives, pearlescent agents, solvents, diluents, anti-oxidants, vitamins and combinations thereof. In the present invention, a perfume may be present from about 0.5% to about 7%.
One or more stabilizers can be included. For example, one or more of ethylene glycol distearate, citric, citrate, a preservative such as kathon, sodium chloride, sodium benzoate, and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (“EDTA”) can be included to improve the lifespan of a personal care composition.
Such optional ingredients should be physically and chemically compatible with the components of the composition, and should not otherwise unduly impair product stability, aesthetics, or performance The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Tenth Edition (published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C.) (2004) (hereinafter “CTFA”), describes a wide variety of non-limiting materials that can be added to the composition herein.
Conditioning Agents
The conditioning agent of the hair care compositions can be a silicone conditioning agent. The silicone conditioning agent may comprise volatile silicone, non-volatile silicone, or combinations thereof. The concentration of the silicone conditioning agent typically ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, by weight of the composition, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, and/or from about 0.2% to about 3%. Non-limiting examples of suitable silicone conditioning agents, and optional suspending agents for the silicone, are described in U.S. Reissue Pat. No. 34,584, U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,104,646, and 5,106,609, which descriptions are incorporated herein by reference.
The silicone conditioning agents for use in the compositions of the present invention can have a viscosity, as measured at 25° C., from about 20 to about 2,000,000 centistokes (“csk”), from about 1,000 to about 1,800,000 csk, from about 10,000 to about 1,500,000 csk, and/or from about 20,000 to about 1,500,000 csk.
The dispersed silicone conditioning agent particles typically have a volume average particle diameter ranging from about 0.01 micrometer to about 60 micrometer. For small particle application to hair, the volume average particle diameters typically range from about 0.01 micrometer to about 4 micrometer, from about 0.01 micrometer to about 2 micrometer, from about 0.01 micrometer to about 0.5 micrometer.
Additional material on silicones including sections discussing silicone fluids, gums, and resins, as well as manufacture of silicones, are found in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, 2d ed., pp 204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. (1989), incorporated herein by reference.
Silicone emulsions suitable for use in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, emulsions of insoluble polysiloxanes prepared in accordance with the descriptions provided in U.S. Pat. No. 6,316,541 or 4,476,282 or U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2007/0276087. Accordingly, suitable insoluble polysiloxanes include polysiloxanes such as alpha, omega hydroxy-terminated polysiloxanes or alpha, omega alkoxy-terminated polysiloxanes having an internal phase viscosity from about 5 csk to about 500,000 csk. For example, the insoluble polysiloxane may have an internal phase viscosity less 400,000 csk, preferably less than 200,000 csk, more preferably from about 10,000 csk to about 180,000 csk. The insoluble polysiloxane can have an average particle size within the range from about 10 nm to about 10 micron. The average particle size may be within the range from about 15 nm to about 5 micron, from about 20 nm to about 1 micron, or from about 25 nm to about 500 nm.
The average molecular weight of the insoluble polysiloxane, the internal phase viscosity of the insoluble polysiloxane, the viscosity of the silicone emulsion, and the size of the particle comprising the insoluble polysiloxane are determined by methods commonly used by those skilled in the art, such as the methods disclosed in Smith, A. L. The Analytical Chemistry of Silicones, John Wiley & Sons, Inc.: New York, 1991. For example, the viscosity of the silicone emulsion can be measured at 30° C. with a Brookfield viscometer with spindle 6 at 2.5 rpm. The silicone emulsion may further include an additional emulsifier together with the anionic surfactant,
Other classes of silicones suitable for use in compositions of the present invention include but are not limited to: i) silicone fluids, including but not limited to, silicone oils, which are flowable materials having viscosity less than about 1,000,000 csk as measured at 25° C.; ii) aminosilicones, which contain at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine; iii) cationic silicones, which contain at least one quaternary ammonium functional group; iv) silicone gums; which include materials having viscosity greater or equal to 1,000,000 csk as measured at 25° C.; v) silicone resins, which include highly cross-linked polymeric siloxane systems; vi) high refractive index silicones, having refractive index of at least 1.46, and vii) mixtures thereof.
The conditioning agent of the hair care compositions of the present invention may also comprise at least one organic conditioning material such as oil or wax, either alone or in combination with other conditioning agents, such as the silicones described above. The organic material can be non-polymeric, oligomeric or polymeric. It may be in the form of oil or wax and may be added in the formulation neat or in a pre-emulsified form. Some non-limiting examples of organic conditioning materials include, but are not limited to: i) hydrocarbon oils; ii) polyolefins, iii) fatty esters, iv) fluorinated conditioning compounds, v) fatty alcohols, vi) alkyl glucosides and alkyl glucoside derivatives; vii) quaternary ammonium compounds; viii) polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having a molecular weight of up to about 2,000,000 including those with CTFA names PEG-200, PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-1000, PEG-2M, PEG-7M, PEG-14M, PEG-45M and mixtures thereof.
Gel Network
In the present invention, a gel network may be present. The gel network component of the present invention comprises at least one fatty amphiphile. As used herein, “fatty amphiphile” refers to a compound having a hydrophobic tail group as defined as an alkyl, alkenyl (containing up to 3 double bonds), alkyl aromatic, or branched alkyl group of C12-C70 length and a hydrophilic head group which does not make the compound water soluble, wherein the compound also has a net neutral charge at the pH of the shampoo composition.
The shampoo compositions of the present invention comprise fatty amphiphile as part of the pre-formed dispersed gel network phase in an amount from about 0.05% to about 14%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 8%, by weight of the shampoo composition.
According to the present invention, suitable fatty amphiphiles, or suitable mixtures of two or more fatty amphiphiles, have a melting point of at least about 27° C. The melting point, as used herein, may be measured by a standard melting point method as described in U.S. Pharmacopeia, USP-NF General Chapter <741>“Melting range or temperature”. The melting point of a mixture of two or more materials is determined by mixing the two or more materials at a temperature above the respective melt points and then allowing the mixture to cool. If the resulting composite is a homogeneous solid below about 27° C., then the mixture has a suitable melting point for use in the present invention. A mixture of two or more fatty amphiphiles, wherein the mixture comprises at least one fatty amphiphile having an individual melting point of less than about 27° C., still is suitable for use in the present invention provided that the composite melting point of the mixture is at least about 27° C.
Suitable fatty amphiphiles of the present invention include fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty phenols, alkoxylated fatty phenols, fatty amides, alkyoxylated fatty amides, fatty amines, fatty alkylamidoalkylamines, fatty alkyoxyalted amines, fatty carbamates, fatty amine oxides, fatty acids, alkoxylated fatty acids, fatty diesters, fatty sorbitan esters, fatty sugar esters, methyl glucoside esters, fatty glycol esters, mono, di & tri glycerides, polyglycerine fatty esters, alkyl glyceryl ethers, propylene glycol fatty acid esters, cholesterol, ceramides, fatty silicone waxes, fatty glucose amides, and phospholipids and mixtures thereof.
In the present invention, the shampoo composition may comprise fatty alcohol gel networks. These gel networks are formed by combining fatty alcohols and surfactants in the ratio of from about 1:1 to about 40:1, from about 2:1 to about 20:1, and/or from about 3:1 to about 10:1. The formation of a gel network involves heating a dispersion of the fatty alcohol in water with the surfactant to a temperature above the melting point of the fatty alcohol. During the mixing process, the fatty alcohol melts, allowing the surfactant to partition into the fatty alcohol droplets. The surfactant brings water along with it into the fatty alcohol. This changes the isotropic fatty alcohol drops into liquid crystalline phase drops. When the mixture is cooled below the chain melt temperature, the liquid crystal phase is converted into a solid crystalline gel network. The gel network contributes a stabilizing benefit to cosmetic creams and hair conditioners. In addition, they deliver conditioned feel benefits for hair conditioners.
The fatty alcohol can be included in the fatty alcohol gel network at a level by weight of from about 0.05 wt % to about 14 wt %. For example, the fatty alcohol may be present in an amount ranging from about 1 wt % to about 10 wt %, and/or from about 6 wt % to about 8 wt %.
The fatty alcohols useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 40 carbon atoms, from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms, and/or about 16 to about 18 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Mixtures of cetyl and stearyl alcohol in a ratio of from about 20:80 to about 80:20 are suitable.
Gel network preparation: A vessel is charged with water and the water is heated to about 74° C. Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and SLES surfactant are added to the heated water. After incorporation, the resulting mixture is passed through a heat exchanger where the mixture is cooled to about 35° C. Upon cooling, the fatty alcohols and surfactant crystallized to form a crystalline gel network. Table 1 provides the components and their respective amounts for an example gel network composition.
In the present invention, there may be a personal care composition wherein the composition does not comprise a gel network.
Emulsifiers
A variety of anionic and nonionic emulsifiers can be used in the hair care composition of the present invention. The anionic and nonionic emulsifiers can be either monomeric or polymeric in nature. Monomeric examples include, by way of illustrating and not limitation, alkyl ethoxylates, alkyl sulfates, soaps, and fatty esters and their derivatives. Polymeric examples include, by way of illustrating and not limitation, polyacrylates, polyethylene glycols, and block copolymers and their derivatives. Naturally occurring emulsifiers such as lanolins, lecithin and lignin and their derivatives are also non-limiting examples of useful emulsifiers.
Chelating Agents
The personal care composition can also comprise a chelant. Suitable chelants include those listed in A E Martell & R M Smith, Critical Stability Constants, Vol. 1, Plenum Press, New York & London (1974) and A E Martell & R D Hancock, Metal Complexes in Aqueous Solution, Plenum Press, New York & London (1996) both incorporated herein by reference. When related to chelants, the term “salts and derivatives thereof” means the salts and derivatives comprising the same functional structure (e.g., same chemical backbone) as the chelant they are referring to and that have similar or better chelating properties. This term include alkali metal, alkaline earth, ammonium, substituted ammonium (i.e. monoethanolammonium, diethanolammonium, triethanolammonium) salts, esters of chelants having an acidic moiety and mixtures thereof, in particular all sodium, potassium or ammonium salts. The term “derivatives” also includes “chelating surfactant” compounds, such as those exemplified in U.S. Pat. No. 5,284,972, and large molecules comprising one or more chelating groups having the same functional structure as the parent chelants, such as polymeric EDDS (ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid) disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,747,440.
Chelating agents can be incorporated in the compositions herein in amounts ranging from 0.001% to 10.0% by weight of the total composition, preferably 0.01% to 2.0%.
Nonlimiting chelating agent classes include carboxylic acids, aminocarboxylic acids, including aminocids, phosphoric acids, phosphonic acids, polyphosponic acids, polyethyleneimines, polyfunctionally-substituted aromatic, their derivatives and salts.
Nonlimiting chelating agents include the following materials and their salts. Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, ethylenediamine-N,N′-disuccinic acid (EDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N′-diglutaric acid (EDDG), salicylic acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, malonic acid, histidine, diethylenetriaminepentaacetate (DTPA), N-hydroxyethylethylenediaminetriacetate, nitrilotriacetate, ethylenediaminetetrapropionate, triethylenetetraaminehexaacetate, ethanoldiglycine, propylenediaminetetracetic acid (PDTA), methylglycinediacetic acid (MODA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-acyl-N,N′,N′-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, nitrilotriacetic acid, ethylenediaminediglutaric acid (EDGA), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine disuccinic acid (HPDS), glycinamide-N, N-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N—N′-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid, glyceryliminodiacetic acid, iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid, aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid, alanine-N,N′-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N′-diacetic acid, aspartic acid N-monoacetic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, diamine-N,N′-dipolyacid, monoamide-N,N′-dipolyacid, diaminoalkyldi(sulfosuccinic acids) (DDS), ethylenediamine-N—N-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid)), N,N′-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N, N-diacetic acid, ethylenediaminetetraproprionate, triethylenetetraaminehexacetate, diethylenetriaminepentaacetate, dipicolinic acid, ethylenedicysteic acid (EDC), ethylenediamine-N,N′-bis(2-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), glutamic acid diacetic acid (GLDA), hexadentateaminocarboxylate (HBED), polyethyleneimine, 1-hydroxydiphosphonate, aminotri(methylenephosphonic acid) (ATMP), nitrilotrimethylenephosphonate (NTP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonate (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxydiphosphonate (HEDP), 2-phosphonobutane-1,2,4-tricarboxylic acid, polvphosphoric acid, sodium tripolyphosphate, tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phosphonic acid and derivatives, Aminoalkylen-poly(alkylenphosphonic acid), aminotri(1-ethylphosphonic acid), ethylenediaminetetra(1-ethylphosphonic acid), aminotri(1-propylphosphonic acid), aminotri(isopropylphosphonic acid), ethylenediaminetetra(methylenephosphonic acid) (EDTMP), 1,2-dihydroxy-3,5-disulfobenzene.
Aqueous Carrier
The personal care compositions can be in the form of pourable liquids (under ambient conditions). Such compositions will therefore typically comprise a carrier, which is present at a level of from about 40% to about 85%, alternatively from about 45% to about 80%, alternatively from about 50% to about 75% by weight of the hair care composition. The carrier may comprise water, or a miscible mixture of water and organic solvent, and in one aspect may comprise water with minimal or no significant concentrations of organic solvent, except as otherwise incidentally incorporated into the composition as minor ingredients of other essential or optional components.
The carrier useful in the personal care compositions of the present invention may include water and water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyhydric alcohols. The lower alkyl alcohols useful herein are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, in one aspect, ethanol and isopropanol. Exemplary polyhydric alcohols useful herein include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and propane diol.
Product Form
The personal care compositions of the present invention may be presented in typical hair care formulations. They may be in the form of solutions, dispersion, emulsions, powders, talcs, encapsulated, spheres, spongers, solid dosage forms, foams, and other delivery mechanisms. The compositions of the present invention may be hair tonics, leave-on hair products such as treatment, and styling products, rinse-off hair products such as shampoos and personal cleansing products, and treatment products; and any other form that may be applied to hair.
Applicator
In the present invention, the hair care composition may be dispensed from an applicator for dispensing directly to the scalp area. Dispensing directly onto the scalp via a targeted delivery applicator enables deposition of the non-diluted cleaning agents directly where the cleaning needs are highest. This also minimizes the risk of eye contact with the cleansing solution.
The applicator is attached or can be attached to a bottle containing the cleansing hair care composition. The applicator can consist of a base that holds or extends to a single or plurality of tines. The tines have openings that may be at the tip, the base or at any point between the tip and the base. These openings allows for the product to be distributed from the bottle directly onto the hair and/or scalp.
Alternatively, the applicator can also consist of brush-like bristles attached or extending from a base. In this case product would dispense from the base and the bristles would allow for product distribution via the combing or brushing motion.
Applicator and tine design and materials can also be optimized to enable scalp massage. In this case it would be beneficial for the tine or bristle geometry at the tips to be more rounded similar to the roller ball applicator used for eye creams. It may also be beneficial for materials to be smoother and softer; for example metal or metal-like finishes, “rubbery materials”.
Methods
Viscosity Measurement
Shampoo viscosities can be measured on a 2.5 mL sample using a cone and plate Brookfield RS rheometer with cone C75-1 at constant shear rate of 2 s−1, at 27° C. at 3 mins.
Measurement of Sulfur Deposition
Sulfur deposition in-vivo on scalp can be determined by ethanol extraction of the agent after the scalp has been treated with a sulfur containing cleansing composition and rinsed off. The concentration of agent in the ethanol extraction solvent is measured by HPLC. Quantitation is made by reference to a standard curve. The concentration detected by HPLC is converted into an amount collected in grams by using the concentration multiplied by volume.
The mass per volume concentration of the agent measured by HPLC is then converted to a mass per area amount deposited by multiplying the measured HPLC concentration by the volume of extraction solvent divided by the area of the scalp extracted.
Measurement of Sulfur Particle Size Distribution
Sulfur particle size distribution is measured with a Horiba LA-950 Laser Scattering Particle Size Distribution Analyzer with LA-950 for Windows software version 8.10. Sulfur material is continuously stirred in 1% SDS solution until uniformly dispersed. While continuing to stir, the dispersed sulfur is transferred to the Horiba instrument into a dispersant of 0.1% SDS with circulation (speed: 3), agitation (speed: 1), and sonication (power: 1) turned on. The dispersed sulfur sample is added until percent transmittance is about 90%. Refractive index values of 2.245-0.10i for sulfur and 1.333 for the dispersant are used to report D10, D50, and D90 values on a volume basis.
Odor Evaluation Method
To evaluate the malodor elimination effectiveness of additives to sulfur containing shampoos, small sections of uniform human hair affixed with plastic ties and adhesive at one end (hair switches) are washed and dried to mimic the shampooing and hair styling process. At various points during and after this process, individuals trained in fragrance assessment assigned a value to the intensity of sulfur malodor perceived on a scale of 0 (no malodor) to 9 (very high malodor) at each time point during lather, after rinsing and after blow drying and then the scores are totaled for an overall cumulative range score of 0 to 27. Formulations resulting in no or slight malodor (0-1) scores at all points of the hair switch treatment are considered to have effectively eliminated sulfur malodor. All shampoo formulas undergo a prescreening via self-washing on forearms or head and subsequent assessment of perceived sulfur malodor that is pass/fail before potentially effective examples are more formally evaluated.
Yield Stress Table and Yield Stress Determination Method
To perform these measurements, the present invention uses a TA DHR3 rheometer equipped with a cone and plate geometry.
A solvent trap is added to avoid sample evaporation during the measurement. This uses a cone and plate geometry, run up to 40° C. and lasts about 30 min.
Test 1—Flow Curve at 25° C.: steady state flow curve in strain controlled mode starting at 100 l/s, down to 0.01 l/s, performed at a fixed temperature of 25° C. The choice to control the shear rate and to start at high shear is made in order to measure the dynamic yield stress. This measurement protocol minimizes the effect of the sample thixotropy which could induce variability in the measurement of the yield stress based on sample shear history. The total duration of this test ˜8 min.
Test 2—Temperature ramp: temperature ramp at fixed shear rate of 2 s−1, starting from 25° C. up to 40° C. The choice of 2 s−1 shear rate is made because it captures the value of the low-shear plateau of the worm like micellar microstructure present in the clear phase. The total duration of this test ˜8 min.
Test 3—Flow Curve at 40° C.: steady state flow curve in strain controlled mode starting at 100 l/s down to 0.01 l/s performed at a fixed temperature of 40° C. Total duration of this step ˜8 min.
The total duration of the full procedure including the sample loading is about 30 min.
The data is analyzed fitting the data to a Three component model [3 component model article citation below] combined with a power law model described by the following expression:
In the expression:
σ: is the shear stress required to maintain a target shear rate {dot over (γ)}
σy: is the yield stress
{dot over (γ)}c: is the critical shear rate
KPL: the consistency parameter describing the viscosity of the continuous phase
nPL: is the power law index describing the shear thinning behavior of the continuous phase
The data obtained from test 1, room temperature data, and test 3, 40 C data, are fitted vis standard non linear regression algorithm to estimate the best set of model parameters that fitted the data.
In the Table 2 below we report the resulting yield stress parameters for the different samples presented:
Caggioni, Marco, Veronique Trappe, and Patrick T. Spicer. “Variations of the Herschel-Bulkley exponent reflecting contributions of the viscous continuous phase to the shear rate-dependent stress of soft glassy materials.” Journal of Rheology 64.2 (2020): 413-422. incorporated herein by reference.
Results
In Vivo Fungal Efficacy Testing
Subjects from all test groups will have Baseline scalp swabs for measurement of scalp Malassezia. Subjects will take home a test product(s) and will be instructed on use test products throughout the week. The test concludes at week 2 with panelists scalps being swabbed and samples collected. Malassezia is quantified from scalp surface swabs via qPCR. The change in Malassezia amount across time will be reported as % fungal reduction from baseline at the 2-week time point.
Example Compositions
1Sodium Laureth-1 Sulfate at 26% active, supplier: P&G
2Sodium Lauryl Sulfate at 29% active, supplier: P&G
3Tego Betain L 7 OK at 30% active, supplier: Evonik
4Ninol Comf at 85% active, supplier: Stepan
5Sulfur, supplier: Vertellus
6Jaguar C-500, supplier: Solvay
7Mirapol AT-1 at 10% active, supplier: Solvay
8CF330M, supplier: Momentive
9Thixcin R, Supplier Elementis
10Sodium Benzoate Dense NF/FCC, supplier: Emerald Performance Materials
11Kathon CG at 1.5% active, supplier: Dow
12Benzyl Alcohol, supplier: EMD
13Darvan l, supplier: Vanderbuilt
14Glycacil L, supplier: Lonza
15Keltrol CG, supplier: CP Kelco
16Sodium Hydroxide-Caustic Soda at 50% active, supplier: K.A. Steel Chemicals, Inc.; level adjustable to achieve target pH
17Citric Acid Anhydrous, supplier: Archer Daniels Midland; level adjustable to achieve target pH
186N HCl, supplier: J.T. Baker, level adjustable to achieve target pH
19Sodium Chloride, supplier: Morton; level adjustable to achieve target viscosity
20Stepanate SXS at 40%, supplier: Stepan
21TEGIN G 1100, supplier: Evonik
A dissolution and diffusion model is utilized to help dimension sulfur solubility in sebum over a 24 hour period. The model predicts where sulfur concentration will rise above the minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC is known to be in the range of 10-50 ppm for sulfur), for the fungus that causes dandruff (Malassezia). The model factors in sulfur dissolution varying sebum thickness and sebum production rate over the 24 hour period as well as a loss term for sulfur migration into the scalp/stratum corneum.
Understanding the Need for Increased Stability Requirements
Since the sulfur particles have higher density than the suspending fluid, to maintain product homogeneity, an elastic microstructure needs to be added to the fluid. Such microstructure must be strong enough to prevent particle sedimentation during shelf life, and weak enough to yield under stress to allow the fluid to flow during dispensing and also to be spread with relative ease during the application and lathering process.
To achieve this goal, colloidal scale particles are often singularly added (ethylene glycol distearate platelets, trihydroxystearin fibers, etc) or polymeric thickeners like acrylates copolymers to turn the fluid into a yield stress fluid. A yield stress fluid possesses a permanent elastic microstructure at rest that prevents particle sedimentation but can flow when a stress exceeding the yield stress is applied.
Failure Mode 1—Tunneling:
The first necessary condition for product stability is having a yield stress higher than the stress applied by every single particle within and around the microstructure. Minimum yield stress may be found using the following equation:
As found in Beris, A. N., Tsamopoulos, J. A., Armstrong, R. C. and Brown, R. A., 1985. Creeping motion of a sphere through a Bingham plastic. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 158, pp. 219-244, incorporated herein by reference.
Based on the available models one skilled in the art can estimate the minimum yield stress (σy) required to suspend a sulfur particle with radius rp=50 μm and density mismatch with the suspending fluid Δρ=1000 Kg/m3:
Where g is the acceleration of gravity. If the yield stress is not enough, the particles will sediment (or cream). When this condition is fulfilled, one will expect the particle to be trapped in the elastic microstructure.
Tunneling failure mode: occurs when structure is not present (Sample A)(
Stable: The distribution of suspended particles remain constant over time. No sedimentation, creaming or compression is visible as shown in Sample D (
Sample D (40° C. temperature)(
Failure Mode 2—Compression:
However, a sufficiently high yield stress is not enough to ensure product homogeneity over its anticipated shelf life. Even if every single particle is successfully trapped, the total stress applied by the particles can induce deformation and compression of the elastic microstructure, wherein the suspended particles and colloidal network remain intact but dilute surfactant is expressed and appears as a separate phase at the top of the product.
The structurant microstructure is a porous network, like a sponge, filled by the product continuous phase. Under the action of the weight of the particle, the structure gets “squeezed” and a transparent layer appears. To avoid this problem, the present invention has looked at having two options: Increase the strength of the structure so that it cannot be deformed and/or increase the viscosity of the fluid to slow down compression and delay the failure past the required shelf life of the product.
Compression failure mode: compression of colloidal gel network describes an instability induced by the cumulative stress due to trapped particles in a colloidal gel network. In this present invention the network yield stress is sufficient to successfully stop particle sedimentation. However, the total stress applied by the trapped particles on the structurant network induce its slow compression resulting in the appearance of a clear layer at the top or bottom of sample.
Microstructure Design
1 Sodium Laureth-1 Sulfate at 26% active, supplier: P&G
2 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate at 29% active, supplier: P&G
3 Tego Betain L 7 OK at 30% active, supplier: Evonik
4 Ninol Comf at 85% active, supplier: Stepan
5 Sulfur, supplier: Vertellus
6 Carbopol Aqua SF-1 at 30% active, supplier: Lubrizol
7 Jaguar C-500, supplier: Solvay
8 Mirapol AT-1 at 10% active, supplier: Solvay
9 CF330M, supplier: Momentive
10 Thixcin R, Supplier Elementis
11 Sodium Benzoate Dense NF/FCC, supplier: Emerald Performance Materials
12 Kathon CG at 1.5% active, supplier: Dow
13 Sodium Hydroxide-Caustic Soda at 50% active, supplier: K.A. Steel Chemicals, Inc.; level adjustable as process aid or to achieve target pH
14 Citric Acid Anhydrous, supplier: Archer Daniels Midland; level adjustable to achieve target PH
15 6N HCl, supplier: J.T. Baker, level adjustable to achieve target pH
With the goal of preventing both failure modes, tunneling and compression, the present invention has explored different stabilization approaches:
Preparation of Shampoo Compositions
The personal care compositions are prepared by adding surfactants, anti-dandruff agents, perfume, viscosity modifiers, cationic polymers and the remainder of the water with ample agitation to ensure a homogenous mixture. The mixture can be heated to 50-75° C. to speed the solubilization of the soluble agents, then cooled. Product pH may be adjusted as necessary to provide shampoo compositions of the present invention which are suitable for application to human hair and scalp, and may vary from about pH 4 to 9, or from about pH 4.5 to 6.5, or from about pH 5 to 6, based on the selection of particular detersive surfactants and/or other components.
Non-Limiting Examples
The personal care compositions illustrated in the following examples are prepared by conventional formulation and mixing methods. All exemplified amounts are listed as weight percents on an active basis and exclude minor materials such as diluents, preservatives, color solutions, imagery ingredients, botanicals, and so forth, unless otherwise specified. All percentages are based on weight unless otherwise specified.
1Sodium Laureth-1 Sulfate at 26% active, supplier: P&G
2Sodium Lauryl Sulfate at 29% active, supplier: P&G
3Tego Betain L 7 OK at 30% active, supplier: Evonik
4Ninol Comf at 85% active, supplier: Stepan
5Sulfur, supplier: Vertellus
6Carbopol Aqua SF-1 at 30% active, supplier: Lubrizol
7Jaguar C-500, supplier: Solvay
8N-Hance BF-17, supplier: Ashland Specialty Ingredients
9Mirapol AT-1 at 10% active, supplier: Solvay
10CF330M, supplier: Momentive
11TEGIN G 1100, supplier: Evonik
12Thixcin R, Supplier Elementis
13Sodium Benzoate Dense NF/FCC, supplier: Emerald Performance Materials
14Kathon CG at 1.5% active, supplier: Dow
15Sodium Hydroxide-Caustic Soda at 50% active, supplier: K.A. Steel Chemicals, Inc.; level adjustable as process aid or to achieve target pH
16Citric Acid Anhydrous, supplier: Archer Daniels Midland; level adjustable to achieve target pH
176N HCl, supplier: J.T. Baker, level adjustable to achieve target pH
18Sodium Chloride, supplier: Morton; level adjustable to achieve target viscosity
19Stepanate SXS at 40%, supplier: Stepan
20Salicylic Acid, supplier: Salicylates and Chemicals
The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean “about 40 mm.”
Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or related patent or application and any patent application or patent to which this application claims priority or benefit thereof, is hereby incorporated herein by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or in any combination with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests or discloses any such invention. Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall govern.
While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of this invention.
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| Number | Date | Country | |
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| 62982388 | Feb 2020 | US |
