Patent Application
20220087352
The present invention relates to a first computer-implemented method for embedding a manufacturing definition model into a first 3D garment model representing a first garment to be fabricated. Further, the invention relates to a second computer-implemented method for digitally approving a modified second 3D garment model representing a second garment to be fabricated. The invention also relates to a third computer-implemented method for automatically grading a third 3D garment model representing a second garment to be fabricated in at least one different size.
In the garment industry, it is a known process to import a garment pattern, i.e. a collection of 2D drawings of panels of a garment, into a Computer Aided Design (CAD) program on a computer in order to virtually assemble the garment with a computer mouse. Usually, each panel is dragged over an avatar and rotated and moved into roughly its correct pose on the avatar, which can be done in 3D or in a 2D projection of the avatar. After the pieces are roughly orientated and placed around the avatar, the edges where the single panels are to be connected need to be selected manually.
For manufacturing, all the details of how to manufacture the garment based on those pieces have to be elaborated and described in detail, comprising items like material, color, orientation, exact position, etc. These process steps are very tedious, take a long time, and are error-prone.
It is current state of the art that the technical definition of a garment is specified in two or more documents. One document is the garment pattern as mentioned above (often a 2D CAD model in DXF format) containing the pattern shapes and used for cutting out the different garment panels from cloth that are then assembled to arrive at the garment. Another document is a file or a set of files that contain said assembly instructions and other details in a human readable format such as an Excel spreadsheet or a PDF file. These kind of documents defining the garment are often referred to as a “Tech Pack”. The human readable instructions usually contain information about which fabric to use, what colors, what thread and stitch types, what finishes, what trims (buttons, zippers, hooks, etc.) to process, and so on. Also, size measurements in a chart for the different sizes of garments to be produced may be comprised by the “Tech Pack”. These manufacturing instructions or definitions are not computer-readable as opposed to the garment patterns, which, depending on their file format, may be available in a computer-readable format. Sometimes, the garment patterns are even not digitally available, but only as a hand drawing.
Examples can e.g. be found in U.S. Ser. Nos. 16/863,773, 16/863,802, and 16/863,817, which are herewith incorporated by reference.
Some workflows also utilize software packages like CLO3D, MakeMyPattern, FreeSewing, Valentina-Project, Techpacker, PatternMaker, InKreate, Marvelous Designer, TAAS (technology advanced apparel service), Wild Ginger Software (Cameo), TUKATECH-Software, Cochenille Design Studio, Garment Maker, or Cloth in 3Ds Max to assist various stages of the garment creation process and/or use zozo-suits or other body scanning technology on the customer to improve individual personal fits.
The state of the garment industry today is further that there are millions of patterns (e.g. 2D CAD (DXF) garment pattern files) with their corresponding human readable manufacturing definitions (“Tech Packs”) but very few corresponding virtual 3D garment models, which are sometimes also referred to as “virtual samples”. This is, as mentioned above, because the conversion of what the industry has into 3D models is manual and tedious. The conversion becomes even more complicated if different versions of the same garment (“colorways”) are to be embraced.
Because of these difficulties, the industry so far merely utilizes these low-detail “virtual samples” for visualization purposes.
Further problems occurring in the art and solved by the present disclosure are addressed further below.
The invention therefore provides computer-implemented methods that help overcoming these difficulties and satisfying a vast backlog demand. Methods according to the invention allow for reductions of working time, manpower, paperwork, and/or inconsistences.
The invention relates to a first computer-implemented method, with program code being stored on a machine readable medium or embodied as an electromagnetic wave, for embedding a manufacturing definition model into a first 3D garment model representing a first garment to be fabricated, the computer-implemented method comprising: providing the first 3D garment model, generating the manufacturing definition model representing a garment element of the first garment and comprising all manufacturing parameters which are necessary to manufacture the garment element, the garment element being other than a garment panel and relating to assembly of the first garment, a finish of the garment element, or an embellishment of the first garment, embedding the manufacturing definition model into the first 3D garment model at a designated position and orientation.
In an embodiment, the computer-implemented method comprises determining the manufacturing definition model to be an access element, displaying the first 3D garment model on a graphical user interface (GUI), and, when the access element is at least one of: selected and being hovered over by a pointing element, changing a view of the first 3D garment model on the GUI so as to display the manufacturing definition model in more detail, wherein a pose and a magnification of the view are optimized.
In an embodiment, the computer-implemented method comprises providing manufacturing instructions describing how to manufacture the garment element, determining the manufacturing definition model to be an access element, linking the access element to the manufacturing instructions, displaying the first 3D garment model on a graphical user interface (GUI), and when the access element is at least one of: selected and being hovered over by a pointing element, displaying the manufacturing instructions on the GUI.
In an embodiment, the manufacturing instructions comprise at least one of: textual information, image data, arrows, and size data.
In an embodiment, the computer-implemented method comprises storing the first 3D garment model, the manufacturing definition model, and the manufacturing instructions in a single data file.
In an embodiment, providing manufacturing instructions comprises automatically deriving the manufacturing instructions from the manufacturing definition model.
In an embodiment, the computer-implemented method comprises generating and embedding into the first 3D garment model a plurality of manufacturing definition models, displaying the first 3D garment model on a graphical user interface (GUI), and displaying on the GUI and order of the plurality of manufacturing definition model, the order representing steps in which the first garment is to be manufactured.
In an embodiment, the garment element is a seam with defined sewing stitches.
In an embodiment, the garment element is a binding on a neck opening, a sleeve opening, a waist opening, or a bottom opening of the first garment.
In an embodiment, the garment element is a closure on the first garment.
In an embodiment, the garment element is a pocket, a waistband, or a belt-loop on the first garment.
In an embodiment, the garment element comprises at least one of a collar and collar stand on a neck opening of the first garment.
In an embodiment, the garment element is an end-type of a sleeve, a pant leg, a dress, or a skirt.
In an embodiment, the manufacturing definition model comprises information relating to fabric properties of the garment element.
In an embodiment, the computer-implemented method comprises generating a plurality of manufacturing definition models and embedding the plurality of manufacturing definition models into the first 3D garment model, wherein each of the plurality of manufacturing definition models have at least a first version and a second version, wherein the plurality of first versions of manufacturing definition models are associated to a first colorway of the first garment and the plurality of second versions of manufacturing definition models are associated to a second colorway of the first garment.
In an embodiment, the computer-implemented method comprises receiving user input for switching between the first and second colorway of the first garment, and displaying the first 3D garment model on a graphical user interface (GUI) with the first versions of the manufacturing definition models or with the second versions of the manufacturing definition models depending on the user input.
The invention further relates to a second computer-implemented method, with program code being stored on a machine readable medium or embodied as an electromagnetic wave, for digitally approving a modified second 3D garment model representing a second garment to be fabricated, the computer-implemented method comprising: providing a graphical user interface (GUI) of 3D garment model design program with at least a first and a second access point, generating the second 3D garment model via the GUI at the first access point, providing the second 3D garment model at the second access point, modifying the second 3D garment model via the GUI at the second access point, providing the modified second 3D garment at the first access point, associating an approval indicator with the modified second 3D garment model via the GUI at the first access point, and providing the approved modified second 3D garment model at the second access point.
The invention further relates to a third computer-implemented method, with program code being stored on a machine-readable medium or embodied as an electromagnetic wave, for automatically grading a third 3D garment model representing a third garment to be fabricated in at least one different size, the computer-implemented method comprising: providing a first 3D avatar representing at least a part of a body of a human, the first 3D avatar having first avatar dimensions, providing the third 3D garment model having garment dimensions to fit the first 3D avatar, providing a second 3D avatar having second avatar dimensions other than the first avatar dimensions, generating a fourth 3D garment model by numerically determining dimensional and proportional differences between the first 3D avatar and the second 3D avatar with respect to a plurality of spatial parameters, modifying the garment dimensions of the third 3D garment model according to a relation between the determined differences and the first 3D avatar. The modified third 3D garment model then is the fourth 3D garment model.
In an embodiment, the fourth garment is to be fabricated from corresponding garment panels, wherein the method further comprises deriving based on the fourth 3D garment model a plurality of 2D pattern pieces representing the garment panels corresponding to the fourth garment.
In an embodiment, the second 3D avatar is based on a standard clothing size or an individually measured actual 3D body model of a specific customer.
In general, it is the purpose of the first computer-implemented method to eliminate the need to produce and manage separated assembly instructions for the factory. Only the 3D garment model file needs to be sent and the factory has every detail of how the garment is to be produced, without requiring supplemental files and documentation. Further, by going away from the usual written explanations and instructions, communication between a design team and a manufacturing plant happens language-independent. Thus, a 3D garment model with embedded manufacturing definition model(s) is unambiguously comprehensible worldwide.
As part of an exemplary common garment manufacturing process, once the design team is close to finalizing a new garment design, they must produce the human readable instructions (“Tech Pack”) for the factory. Those documents plus the pattern documents are then sent to the factory so that they can produce one or more sample garments. These garments are then verified by the design team to make sure that the factory has correctly understood all the instructions. This process is prone to error as the instructions are often not clear or are incomplete. The result is iteration between the design team and the factory which can delay the start of production.
For example, with the first computer-implemented method, drawbacks of manually generating and transmitting these human readable instructions are overcome. A “digital twin” of the garment is provided having all the details of assembly and finishes embedded into one unified file that contains the entire definition of the garment design and garment production. Information that was previously manually produced and provided in human readable format, often in multiple separate files, is already included into the digital twin, in particular by way of a 2D or 3D definition. A factory receiving such a single 3D model file can open it with the according computer software, look at the garment in 3D, and read off finishing and production related details like seams, trims, finishes, fabrics, etc. Optionally, the computer program can provide the regarding elements of the garment as access elements by which, when selected on a GUI, more details may be presented in the software.
Still referring to the first computer-implemented method, the manufacturing parameters can be used in two general ways. Firstly, they may define how two pieces of cut cloth are to be joined or sewed together. Other examples are instructions for the assembly of a pocket or belt loops. Secondly, they may refer to the way of completing specific aspects of the garment such as a neck opening, a waist opening, an end of a sleeve, a bottom of a pant leg, or a bottom of a dress or skirt etc. For example, a neck opening can be finished by a collar with a collar stand. It can also be finished with what is called a binding (t-shirt) and also just a collar or just a collar stand. There are many different ways of finishing the top of a skirt or trousers as well: it could be elastic as known from sweatpants, it could be a strip of cloth like a jeans waistband etc. There is also the concept of closures (e.g. zippers, buttons, etc.), embellishments (e.g. ornaments, prints, etc.), and finishes (e.g. chemical or mechanical treatments, etc.). The afore-mentioned exemplary parameters and the corresponding tangible elements of the garment are represented by said manufacturing definition model. The manufacturing definition model hence has all the information required for manufacturing the respective garment element.
Further, the manufacturing instructions describing how to manufacture the garment element may comprise at least one of: color swatches, color indicators, stitch types, and stitch designations.
In some embodiments the garment element is not a garment panel per se. However, the garment element may in other embodiments still refer to, or be, a garment panel. Specifically, the different versions of the manufacturing definition models may represent different styles of the same type of garment. That means, for example, a jacket may be available in two different color combinations: a first one having light brown as main color (e.g. the color of all garment panels) with dark brown buttons and stitches, and a second one having a dark brown main color with light brown buttons and stitches. In this case, there are manufacturing definition models representing the garment panels, some representing the stitches, and others representing the buttons. All of these manufacturing definition models are available in the two above-mentioned different color versions. As well, a shirt may be available with several different types of collars, wherein when switching between the versions of the manufacturing definition models, the corresponding 3D garment model displayed on a GUI will be shown with the different collar types while the rest of the shirt being unchanged.
As an example, a new digital 3D garment design file from a designer, i.e. the 3D garment model, can be loaded in the computer program product, which is providing the graphical user interface for interacting with the 3D garment model. The 3D garment model may then be finished e.g. by selecting the correct finishes, trims, fabrics etc. Any change or edit of those finishing features by the program can be re-visualized in the modified garment in 3D, so that a design team can immediately verify that the “virtual” garment is correctly representing the intended design. Once the design team is satisfied with the digital twin, the factory will need no additional instructions, documentation and paperwork, as all the required information for correctly producing the garment is already included in the 3D garment model. It is however possible that factories may need to adjust the 3D design due to producibility issues. In this case, according to the second computer-implemented method, the manufacturing definition model(s) of the 3D garment model can be modified at the factory and then digitally approved by the design team. Such an approval process is a common issue in the industry. The fact that the manufacturing definition model(s) representing the garment element(s) and comprising all manufacturing parameters necessary to manufacture the garment are included in the 3D garment model makes the exchange a whole lot easier and more efficient.
Finally referring to the third computer-implemented method, the second 3D garment model may be designed by a garment designer choosing the garment dimensions such that the second 3D garment model fits the first 3D avatar with a certain “ease”. The purpose of the “ease” is to provide more comfort for the customer of the garment and/or give him more freedom of movement. This “ease” can mathematically be described as placement of the second 3D garment on the first avatar with respect to all dimensions (also vertically). The modification of the garment dimensions of the second 3D garment model may be described as changing the shape of the garment in non-uniform ways. In particular, the modification is a non-linear reshaping, wherein the avatar dimensional and proportional differences are taken into account. The differences may in particular be calculated according to a plurality of different shape parameters (in particular 60, 100, or even more) comparing the first and second avatar. The differences may mathematically be described as forces or vectors or a matrix, which can be applied to the garment according to said plurality of shape parameters.
For example, a designer and pattern maker are working together to create the new garment that will fit a “sample” size person, which represents an ideal or average body shape that is presenting the garment design well. When the design is finalized, a step called “grading” is performed, where designer and pattern maker modify different sets of the 2D pattern piece shapes to be larger or smaller, so that the garment can fit on many different body sizes and shapes. Traditionally, this grading or pattern modification requires skills and experience of the design team and bases on specifically applied brand size standards.
Therefore, within the scope of the third computer-implemented method, an approach is provided that automizes this tedious process and at the same time is highly precise. By means of the program code, the excess fabric or “ease” of the garment around the 3D avatar is digitally determined. This amount of ease is then translated onto a differently sized avatar that represents a larger or smaller size, or a specific body shape of an individual customer or a class of customers. Therefore, the grading can also take into account body shapes that fall short of the standard. Preferably, the amount of ease is applied proportionally to another avatar in order to achieve a similar look. Thus, the above approach can also be applied in a built-to-order garment manufacturing, wherein a customer-provided avatar of his body is used in the third computer-implemented method. Optionally, the customer may be provided with a functionality to further input individual parameters according to his preferences of ease, comfort, tightness, etc.—for example as user configurable parameters or based on his preferences which can in an embodiment also be automatically derived from his previous garment purchases, garment-returns, his feedback, social media posts, etc.
Instead of going the customized way, the 3D measurement or avatar of the customer can also be compared to the available standard sizes, in particular including his desired level of ease or further shape parameters, so that a standard size is chosen for the grading which is closest to the customer shape.
Using the third computer-implemented method, a batch process may be implemented having as input one designed 3D garment model and outputting several sets of 2D patterns pieces, each set belonging to a different clothes size.
The computer-implemented methods as presented herein should not necessarily be understood as being separate ideas. As the methods are all involved in the garment design process, there are embodiments of the invention, in which the methods are combined in any possible variation of the aspects as presented herein.
The invention also covers 3D garment design programs that is configured for carrying out on a computer the computer-implemented methods as disclosed herein. In particular, each of the 3D garment design programs may be combined to one single 3D garment design program. Further, each of the 3D garment design programs may be considered a 3D CAD software with connectivity interfaces and special functionalities specifically designed for generating, enhancing, handling, managing, resizing, or grading 3D garment models.
By way of example only, preferred embodiments of the invention will be described more fully hereinafter with reference to the accompanying figures, wherein:
In
The manufacturing definition models 3a-d in
For example, a user about to generate the manufacturing definition models has at hand the basic model 20 as shown in
In some embodiments, the first computer-implemented method may as well comprise providing manufacturing instructions. These can also be embedded into the file 4 of the 3D garment model 20 either by the designer entering them manually or they might be automatically derived from the manufacturing definition model 3. For example, if the manufacturing definition model defines a specific stitch used for assembling the garment panels 8, the first computer implemented method may provide explanations, description, or instructions as to how, when, and/or where to sew the panels together. This automatic extraction might be possible because the instruction is inherently defined by the manufacturing definition model. The according element of the garment may be declared as an access element for retrieving the manufacturing instructions interactively in the GUI.
The manufacturing definition model 12a is representing a rivet on the pocket of the jeans 1. The model 12, in particular including an area surrounding the model 12a, is determined as an access element. When the cursor 11 is hovering over the access element or selecting it, an extra window 13a is opening containing a high-resolution depiction of the rivet and showing the exact specification of the part. Additionally or alternatively, the window 13a may also comprise a video or illustration on how to manufacture the element. If applicable for the clicked item, it could also comprise information of color, type, tool to be used, setting of the tool, dimensional information of the feature, etc.
In
The GUI of this garment design program may be shown on a screen of a computer, on a tablet PC, a smartphone, an augmented reality device, or an artificial reality system, etc. in 2D or 3D.
Displaying the manufacturing instruction is an optional feature as all the information necessary to produce the garment are already defined by the manufacturing definition models. They merely render a support for more unexperienced workers or in case there is an unexpected ambiguity.
Instead of opening up an extra instruction window 13, in an embodiment, the access element could also trigger the 3D garment model 30 to turn and enlarge in order to provide a more detailed view of the corresponding manufacturing definition model.
Leaving this specific example again and going back to schematic
At step 101, the second 3D garment model is generated via the GUI at the first access point. In other words, the designer or design team is designing a new garment design by generating the second 3D garment model with help of the GUI.
At step 102, the second 3D garment model is provided at the second access point. Sticking to the example from above, that means that the newly created 3D garment model is transferred to the factory (e.g. sent by email or other channels) or simply retrieved by the second access point in Vietnam since the file of the second 3D garment model is and stays on the remote server.
At step 103, the second 3D garment model is modified via the GUI at the second access point. In case the factory workers reviewing the 3D garment model find out that at least an aspect of the 3D model cannot be realized in the their factory (be it for the lack of tools, skills, or merely a mistake built in by the designers), the 3D garment model can be adjusted or modified, in particular with regard to manufacturing definition models, by the manufacturing team by means of the GUI.
At step 104, the modified second 3D garment is provided at the first access point. Again, this means e.g. that the modified file containing the modified 3D garment model is sent back, or the designer or design team in the USA is merely opening the modified file stored on the server.
At step 105, an approval indicator is associated with the modified second 3D garment model via the GUI at the first access point. The designers can thus approve of the modification and release the file. As an optional intermediate step, the designers can also adjust the modifications in case the manufacturer also made a mistake or the designers are not satisfied with the design and agree to a new compromise.
At step 106 finally, the approved modified second 3D garment model is provided at the second access point. In other words, to stick to the above example, the file is sent back again to Vietnam, or the manufacturer retrieves the approved modified 3D model from the server.
The ease refers to the amount of roominess in a specified garment. There are two kinds of ease, a fitting ease and a design ease. A garment must contain adequate ease beyond the actual measurements of the wearer to allow room for ordinary human body movements like arm movements, walking, sitting, riding and even breathing.
A bigger avatar 51 as shown in
According to
When applying the matrix to the t-shirt 40 to arrive at the modified t-shirt 50, the t-shirt 40 is uniformly expanded as depicted in
The third computer-implemented method particularly provides that the 3D garment model 40 is associated with corresponding 2D patterns 42. In a preferred embodiment, the method further comprises deriving from the modified 3D garment model 50 a corresponding set of modified 2D patterns 52. In this way, a factory is, in a fast and efficient way, provided with a desired variety of 2D pattern pieces sets, each set fitting a differently sized and/or shaped human body.
In a combination with the aspects of the first computer-implemented method as presented herein, the adaption of the 3D garment model 40 may also take into account the embedded manufacturing definition models. For example, the modified model 50 may include longer zippers, additional buttons, stronger threads, or the required length of thread.
The avatar 51 may be obtained from a catalog of reference sized avatars, e.g. in standardized sizes and/or shapes. Alternatively, the avatar 51 can also be an individual body shape of a specific customer, e.g. a body shape scanned in 3D or an avatar parametrized by multiple measurements at the customers' body.
It is noted that the text in
Although the invention is illustrated above, partly with reference to some preferred embodiments, it must be understood that numerous modifications and combinations of different features of the embodiments can be made. All of these modifications lie within the scope of the appended claims.
