The present invention relates to an improved conditioning composition.
Despite the prior art there remains the need for improved conditioning compositions.
Accordingly, the present invention provides a conditioning composition comprising a quaternary conditioning surfactant, an acid neutralized amidoamine surfactant of general formula:
Surprisingly, it has been found that the claimed system provides significant hair fibre restructuring benefits without having an excessively low pH, despite the level of acid.
Preferably, the lactic acid is present at from 0.5 to 3.5% wt. of the composition and more preferably at from 0.6 to 2% wt. of the composition.
The composition according to the invention will also comprise one or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from cationic surfactants, used singly or in admixture. Examples include quaternary ammonium hydroxides or salts thereof, e.g. chlorides.
Suitable cationic surfactants for use in hair conditioners of the invention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, and the corresponding hydroxides thereof. Further suitable cationic surfactants include those materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of the foregoing materials may also be suitable. Particularly useful cationic surfactants for use in hair conditioners of the invention are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as DEHYQUART, ex Henkel.
The most preferred conditioning surfactants are cetyl trimonium chloride and behenyl trimonium chloride.
The level of conditioning surfactant is preferably from 0.01 to 10%, more preferably 0.05 to 5%, most preferably 0.1 to 3.5% by weight of the composition.
The pH of the composition is from 2.0 to 4.0, more preferably from 3.1 to 3.8.
The acid neutralized amidoamine surfactant is a compound of general formula:
Preferably, the acid neutralized amidoamine surfactant is selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, palimtamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleoamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleoamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures.
Preferably, the amidoamine is present at from 0.1 to 10% wt. of the composition, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% wt and most preferably from 0.1 to 2% wt. of the composition.
Suitable basic amino acids include arginine, lysine and histidine may also be used as buffering agents. Preferably, the basic amino acid is present at from 0.1 to 2% wt. and more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% wt. of the composition.
Suitable metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and ammonium hydroxide are also useful buffering agent. Preferably, the metal hydroxide is present at from 0.001 to 2% wt. of the composition, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.5% wt. of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may comprise any of a number of other ingredients commonly found in conditioner compositions for example silicones, aminosilicones, fatty alcohols, fatty amides, fatty esters, opacifiers, perfumes, thickeners etc.
The composition may also comprise components with differing levels of lactic acid and different pH values. For example the composition may comprise a plurality of formulations which are either separated by packaging or are stored in contact with one another.
Where the composition comprises a plurality of compositions comprising different levels of lactic acid it is preferred that they are stored independent of one another to avoid transfer of lactic acid between them. Where the compositions are stored separately from one another it is preferred that they are dispensed simultaneously and are mixed immediately prior to use. Such mixing may involve nothing more than putting the compositions in contact with one another for the user to mix during use.
Where the composition has a pH of less than 3.10 it is preferred that it is in the form of a conditioning mask for intense treatment.
Preferably, the composition comprises less than 5% w/w cleansing surfactant, more preferably less than 2% wt. cleansing surfactant.
Preferably, the composition comprises less than 5% w/w anionic surfactant, more preferably less than 2% wt. anionic surfactant.
The following is an example of a formulation according to an embodiment of the invention. It is made by standard processes.
The following are two conditioner compositions made by standard processes. Ingredients are shown as weight percent of total composition.
In the following example, the composition is made by combining 25% v/v of Part I and 75% v/v Part II. Further, Part I and Part II may be used as conditioning treatment compositions independently of one another.
The following is a similar pair of conditioning formulations which may be combined to make a composition as indicated.
The following protocol demonstrates the fibre restructuring benefit of lactic acid.
The DSC protocol measures the structure of hair. The higher the temperature the better condition the hair fibre.
The hair is first treated with a bleach. It is then treated with a conditioning composition comprising lactic acid.
Bleach Treatment
Products used:
Bleach: L'Oreal Platine Precision powder bleach.
Peroxide: 9% (30 vol) Excel crème peroxide suppliers own make. Quantity to bleach five 2.5 g/6″ switches: -
Weigh 30 g of bleach powder into a tinting bowl and 60 g of 9% Excel peroxide crème.
Mix powder and peroxide into creamy homogeneous consistency.
First Application of Bleach
Second Application
Shampoo Step (1 cycle)
Mask Step (1 cycle)
This follows immediately after the wash with shampoo.
DSC Results
The results show that from above around 0.5% wt. lactic acid there is an increase in the DSC temperature which correlates with improvement in hair fibre structure.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
---|---|---|---|
09173618.1 | Oct 2009 | EP | regional |
09176027.2 | Nov 2009 | EP | regional |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind | 371c Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
PCT/EP10/64719 | 10/4/2010 | WO | 00 | 5/18/2012 |