Patent Application
20050196368
The present disclosure relates to a process for shaping keratin fibers, for instance human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of a composition comprising at least one anionic fixing polymer and at least one nonionic compound; and the sequential or simultaneous application of heat to shape keratin fibers.
The use of heat to shape keratin fibers, such as in the form of smoothing irons, curling irons or embossing irons, is known. It is also known to shape keratin fibers using heat, e.g., using devices such as listed above, in combination with compositions for instance, comprising polymers, optionally anionic polymers, as described in French Patent Application No. FR 03/05636. The results obtained, however, may be accompanied by a formation on the hair of unattractive residues in the form of whitish particles.
Accordingly, it would be desirable to find a process for shaping keratin fibers that does not generate such unattractive residues. Advantageously and unexpectedly, the present inventors have discovered that this problem of the prior art can be avoided by performing a process that comprises applying to keratin fibers a composition comprising at least one anionic fixing polymer and at least one nonionic compound, and placing the keratin fibers; sequentially or simultaneously, in contact with heat to shape the keratin fibers.
The process according to the present disclosure can be easy to perform: it can allow easy shaping of the desired hairstyle, and can lead to a good level of fixing of the keratin fibers, which holds throughout the day or even for several days, and the effect obtained can also show good resistance to moisture and be easy to remove by shampooing; furthermore, this process can make it possible to avoid the formation on the keratin fibers of unattractive whitish particles. This process can also make it possible to give the hair good cosmetic properties such as softness, easy disentangling and sheen.
Other characteristics, aspects, subjects and benefits of the present disclosure, will emerge more clearly upon reading the description and the examples that follow.
One aspect of the present disclosure is thus a process for shaping keratin fibers.
The process according to the present disclosure is a process for shaping keratin fibers, for instance, human keratin fibers, such as the hair, comprising:
Another aspect of the present disclosure is a cosmetic composition comprising at least one anionic fixing polymer and at least one nonionic compound chosen from fatty alcohols, polyols and silicones, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one anionic fixing polymer to the at least one nonionic compound is greater than or equal to 1.
As used herein, the term “process for shaping keratin materials” is understood to mean any process for modifying the initial appearance of the hairstyle: it may thus be a process for curling or embossing the hair, or a process for smoothing or straightening the hair.
The at least one anionic fixing polymer that may be used in the compositions of the present disclosure includes, for example, branched block copolymers comprising, as main monomers, at least one C1-20 alkyl acrylate and/or at least one N-mono- or N,N-di(C2-12alkyl)(meth)acrylamide, and acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid.
Another aspect of the present disclosure is the use of at least one nonionic compound chosen from fatty alcohols, polyols and silicones to reduce the unattractive residues of anionic fixing polymers during the placing of these polymers in contact with heat.
When the cosmetic composition as disclosed herein is applied to the keratin fibers and before applying heat, a period of “action time” ranging from 30 seconds to 10 minutes may be observed.
Placing the keratin fibers in contact with heat can be performed using heat in any form that can shape the keratin fibers. For example, hair styling appliances can make it possible to heat the keratin fibers to a temperature ranging from 50° C. to 250° C., such as from 100° C. to 230° C. For instance, heat can be applied to the hair in order to curl or emboss the hair, or alternatively to smooth or straighten the hair, and can be in the form of a heating device, such as smoothing irons, curling irons or crimping irons.
The application of the heat may take place by successive touches or by sliding the appliance along the fibers.
According to one embodiment of the present disclosure, the heat can be in the form of an iron that has a reservoir allowing the direct delivery of the inventive composition onto the fibers.
The cosmetic composition to be applied to the hair comprises at least one anionic fixing polymer and at least one nonionic compound chosen from fatty alcohols, silicones and polyols. In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the weight ratio of the at least one anionic fixing polymer to the at least one nonionic compound is greater than or equal to 1.
As used herein, the term “fixing polymer” is understood to mean any polymer capable of giving the hair a shape or of modifying its original shape.
Among the anionic fixing polymers that may be used in the cosmetic composition as disclosed herein, non-limiting mention may be made of polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acid and that have a number-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 5,000,000.
The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid monomers, such as those of formula (I):
wherein
In formula (I), a lower alkyl group can mean, for example, a group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl and ethyl.
Among the anionic fixing polymers comprising carboxylic groups that may be used according to the present disclosure, non-limiting mention may be made of:
A) acrylic or methacrylic acid homo- or copolymers, or salts thereof, for example, the products sold under the names Versicol® E or K by the company Allied Colloid and Ultrahold® by the company BASF, the copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salts under the names Reten 421, 423 or 425 by the company Hercules, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids.
B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described, for example, in French Patent No. 1 222 944, and German Patent Application No. 2 330 956, the copolymers of this type comprising an optionally N-alkylated and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit in their chain as described, for instance, in Luxembourg Patent Application Nos. 75370 and 75371, or sold under the name Quadramer by the company American Cyanamid. Non-limiting mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, of acrylic acid and of methacrylate of C1-C20 alkyl, for example of lauryl, such as the product sold by the company ISP under the name Acrylidone® LM and methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/tert-butyl acrylate terpolymers such as the product sold under the name Luvimer® 100 P by the company BASF. Further non-limiting mention may also be made of methacrylic acid/acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers as an aqueous dispersion, sold under the name Amerhold® DR 25 by the company Amerchol.
C) crotonic acid copolymers, such as those comprising vinyl acetate or propionate units in their chain and optionally other monomers such as allylic esters or methallylic esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon chain such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, it being possible for these polymers optionally to be grafted or crosslinked, or alternatively another vinyl, allylic or methallylic ester monomer of an α- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French Patent Nos. 1 222 944, 1 580 545, 2 265 782, 2 265 781, 1 564 110 and 2 439 798. Commercial products falling into this class are the resins 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 sold by the company National Starch.
D) copolymers derived from C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides chosen from:
E) polyacrylamides comprising carboxylate groups.
The homopolymers and copolymers comprising sulfonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic or acrylamidoalkylsulfonic units. Among these polymers that can be used as disclosed herein, non-limiting mention may be made of:
As another anionic fixing polymer that can be used according to the present disclosure, non-limiting mention may be made of the branched block anionic polymer sold under the name Fixate G100 by the company Noveon.
The anionic fixing polymers may also be chosen from, for example, acrylic acid copolymers, such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold, for instance, under the name Ultrahold® Strong by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold, for instance, under the name. Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives and acrylic acid and esters thereof, such as the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name Gantrez® ES 425 by the company ISP, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit® L by the company Rohm Pharma, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX or MAE by the company BASF, the vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers sold under the name Luviset CA 66 by the company BASF, the vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers grafted with polyethylene glycol sold under the name Aristoflex A® by the company BASF, and the polymer sold under the name Fixate G100 by the company Noveon.
In some embodiments, the anionic fixing polymers that may be used in the context of the present disclosure may be chosen from the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name Gantrez® ES 425 by the company ISP, the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold under the name Ultrahold® Strong by the company BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit® L by the company Rohm Pharma, the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX or MAE by the company BASF, the vinylpyrrolidone/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate terpolymers sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP, and the polymer sold under the name Fixate G100 by the company Noveon.
According to the present disclosure, it is also possible to use anionic fixing polymers of grafted silicone type comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion comprising a nonsilicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer, and the other being grafted onto the said main chain. These polymers are described, for example, in European Patent Application Nos. EP-A-0 412 704, EP-A-0 412 707, EP-A-0 640 105 and EP-A-0 582 152, International Patent Application Nos. WO 95/00578, and WO 93/23009, and U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,693,935, 4,728,571 and 4,972,037.
Such polymers are, for example, copolymers that can be obtained by free radical polymerization from the monomer mixture formed from:
Other examples of grafted silicone polymers include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting chain, mixed polymer units of the poly((meth)acrylic acid) type and of the poly(alkyl (meth)acrylate) type.
Another type of anionic silicone fixing polymer that may be used is, for example, the product Luviflex® Silk, sold by the company BASF.
Functionalized or non-functionalized, silicone or non-silicone, anionic polyurethanes may also be used as fixing polymers. Among the polyurethanes that may be used, non-limiting mention may be made of those disclosed in European Patent Nos. EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485, EP 0 656 021, and EP 0 619 111, French Patent No. FR 2 743 297, and International Patent No. WO 94/03510.
Among polyurethanes that that may be used according to the present disclosure, further non-limiting mention may be made of the products sold under the names Luviset Pur® and Luviset® Si-Pur by the company BASF.
Among the anionic fixing polymers that may be used for the purposes of the present disclosure are also copolymers comprising branched blocks comprising, as main monomers, at least one C1-20 alkyl acrylate and/or at least one N-mono- or N,N-di(C2-12 alkyl)(meth)acrylamide, and acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid. These branched block copolymers have a structure comprising hydrophobic blocks to which are attached, for instance via difunctional units, a certain number of more hydrophilic blocks. These copolymers have at least two glass transition temperatures. These copolymers comprise:
The most hydrophobic blocks have a molecular weight ranging from 10,000 to 100,000 and the most hydrophilic blocks have a molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 100,000 daltons.
The above discussed fixing film-forming polymers are in anionic form, i.e., they are converted into salts by partial or total neutralization of the (meth)acrylic acid groups. Non-limiting examples of neutralizers that may be mentioned include 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol and sodium hydroxide. They are described, for example, in International Patent Application No. WO 00/40628 and sold, for example, under the names EX-SDR-26® and EX-SDR-45® by the company Goodrich.
The at least one anionic fixing polymer is can be present in the compositions according to the present disclosure in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20%, such as from 0.5% to 10%, for instance from 0.6% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In one aspect of the present disclosure, the at least one anionic fixing polymer can be chosen from branched block copolymers comprising, as main monomers, at least one C1-20 alkyl acrylate and/or at least one N-mono- or N,N-di(C2-12 alkyl)(meth)acrylamide, and acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, and can be present in an amount, for example, ranging from 0.6% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Nonionic compounds that may be used in the cosmetic compositions as disclosed herein include optionally ethoxylated fatty alcohols, polyols and silicones.
As used herein, the term “fatty alcohols” is understood to mean linear or branched, such as linear, optionally unsaturated alcohols comprising from 4 to 30, for instance from 8 to 22, such as from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
These alcohols may be ethoxylated, in which case they comprise from 2 to 10 EO groups. For example, the ethoxylated fatty alcohols that may be used according to the present disclosure have an HLB>5; these fatty alcohols may be used, for instance, in the compositions according to the present disclosure.
The polyols that may be used in the context of the present disclosure can be, for instance C3-C10 polyols, comprising from 2 to 5 OH groups. For example, in one embodiment of the present disclosure, they may be chosen from glycerol, glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol and butyl diglycol groups.
The silicones that may be used in the context of the present disclosure may be linear, cyclic, branched or unbranched, and volatile or non-volatile. They may be in the form of oils, resins or gums, such as, for instance, polyorganosiloxanes. The organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968) Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
When they are volatile, the silicones can be chosen from those having a boiling point ranging from 60° C. to 260° C.; for instance, the silicones can be chosen from:
Non-limiting mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1′-bis(2,2,2′,2′,3,3′-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
Among the non-volatile silicones that may be used as disclosed herein, non-limiting mention may be made of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.
The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the present disclosure are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure at least one organofunctional group attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. Among the organomodified silicones that may be used, non-limiting mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
The silicone oils that may be used in the compositions according to the present disclosure are volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes comprising a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, such as, for instance, cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and mixtures thereof.
The silicone gums that may be used in the compositions according to the present disclosure are polydiorganosiloxanes with a high molecular mass, ranging from 200,000 to 2,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils, polydiphenyldimethylsiloxane oils, isoparaffins, methylene chloride, pentane and hydrocarbons, or mixtures thereof.
In the case of gums, for example, a silicone gum with a molecular weight of less than 1,500,000 may be used. The silicone gums can be, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes, polyphenylmethylsiloxanes, poly(diphenylsiloxanedimethylsiloxanes), poly(dimethylsiloxanemethylvinylsiloxanes), poly(dimethylsiloxanephenylmethylsiloxanes) or poly(diphenylsiloxanedimethylsiloxanemethylvinylsiloxanes).
These silicone gums may be terminated at a chain end with trimethylsilyl or dimethylhydroxysilyl groups.
The silicone resins that may be used in the compositions according to the present disclosure are crosslinked siloxane systems comprising units R2SiO2/2, RSiO3/2 or SiO4/2, wherein R is chosen from hydrocarbon-based groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and phenyl groups. In one embodiment of the present disclosure, R is chosen from lower (C1-C6) alkyl radicals and phenyl radicals.
The at least one nonionic compound may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20%, such as from 0.5% to 10%, for instance, from 0.6% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In another embodiment of the present disclosure, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one anionic fixing polymer of the type such as the copolymer of AMP acrylate/allyl methacrylate (e.g. Fixate G100 from the company Noveon) in an amount ranging from 0.6% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one nonionic compound chosen from C3-C10 polyols, ethoxylated-fatty alcohols of HLB>5 and silicone copolyols in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, this composition being such that the weight ratio of the at least one anionic fixing polymer to the at least one nonionic compound is greater than 1.
The composition as disclosed herein may also comprise at least one adjuvant chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants; nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric additional polymers (other than the anionic fixing polymers described above); ceramides and pseudoceramides; vitamins and provitamins including panthenol; water-soluble and liposoluble, liquid and solid sunscreens; solid compounds such as pigments, nacreous agents and opacifiers; dyes; sequestering agents; plasticizers; solubilizers; acidifying agents; basifying agents; neutralizers; mineral and organic thickeners; antioxidants; hydroxy acids; solvents; penetrating agents; fragrances; buffers; dispersants; conditioning agents; opacifiers; and preserving agents.
The at least one adjuvant can be present in an amount for each adjuvant ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional compound(s) such that the beneficial properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the present disclosure are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
The appropriate medium of the compositions comprises water or of a mixture of water and of at least one organic solvent to dissolve the compounds that are not sufficiently water-soluble. Examples of organic solvents that may be used include hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, aromatic alcohols, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
The at least one solvent may be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, such as from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dye composition.
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about.” Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present invention. At the very least, and not as an attempt to limit the application of the doctrine of equivalents to the scope of the claims, each numerical parameter should be construed in light of the number of significant digits and ordinary rounding approaches.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements. The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
The formulations of the following examples were prepared:
Fixate G100 (Noveon) is a copolymer of AMP acrylates/allyl methacrylate.
Each of these formulations was applied to a panel of models and to locks of natural hair.
After an action time of about 30 seconds, a flat or round heating iron at 200° C. capable of shaping this hair was applied.
Two series of tests were performed:
The first series comprised smoothing each lock of hair treated with formulations 1, 2 and.3 using a flat iron (Techniliss Ioni Ceramic PNC 228 Velecta) by performing several passes in a continuous movement from the root to the end.
The second series comprised shaping the hair using curling irons.
Good hold of the hairstyle obtained was observed: the hair was soft and the locks are smooth and shiny, and in addition no deposit of unattractive whitish residues was observed.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 04 01401 | Feb 2004 | FR | national |
This application claims benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No. 60/559,027, filed Apr. 5, 2004, and of French Patent Application No. 04/01401, the contents of both of which are incorporated herein by reference.
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60559027 | Apr 2004 | US |
