Patent Application
20240285507
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one oil-in-water emulsion and at least one agent chosen from a fatty amine, a fatty acid, a fatty alcohol and mixtures thereof, in a particular content.
The invention also relates to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres and to a cosmetic treatment process using this composition.
In the field of the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, notably human keratin fibres such as the hair, and more particularly in the field of hair washing and/or haircare, rinse-out products but also leave-in products are used. These products aim to provide various cosmetic properties, notably smoothness, sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good disentangling properties.
Nevertheless, these products lead to compositions with insufficient foam qualities, notably in terms of creaminess and smoothness of the foam. Indeed, the foams are generally less creamy and less dense.
There is thus a need to develop cosmetic compositions that overcome the abovementioned drawbacks without, however, degrading the cosmetic properties.
The Applicant has now discovered that a composition containing at least two different particular surfactants, a particular oil-in-water emulsion and an agent chosen from specific fatty substances in a certain content, makes it possible to obtain products which have excellent foam properties and optimum working qualities (easy application and homogeneous spreading).
In particular, the foam obtained with the compositions according to the invention is very tight (resembling shaving foam) with very fine bubbles of very small size, which leads to the foam qualities mentioned below.
In addition, the compositions according to the invention make it possible to give the hair advantageous cosmetic properties, notably in terms of smoothness, sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good disentangling properties.
Thus, the aim of the present invention is to design a cosmetic composition which can afford improved foam qualities, notably in terms of creaminess, smoothness and density, and also having good cosmetic properties, such as smoothness, sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good disentangling properties, and also optimum working qualities.
A subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition comprising:
The composition of the invention makes it possible to obtain an abundant foam, which has good creaminess, smoothness and density. This foam can then be easily and uniformly spread on the keratin fibres.
Moreover, the composition of the invention rinses out rapidly without leaving unpleasant residues on the fibres and gives them a natural, clean feel after rinsing. The fibres treated with the composition of the invention also have good cosmetic properties, notably in terms of smoothness, sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good disentangling properties.
A subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment, notably the washing, of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of the composition according to the invention.
The present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for washing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from . . . to . . . ”.
Moreover, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises a) at least one anionic surfactant.
The anionic surfactants a) are different from the fatty acids d).
The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
In the present description, a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from sulfate-type anionic surfactants.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “sulfate-type anionic surfactant” means an anionic surfactant including one or more sulfate functions (—OSO3H or —OSO3−).
Such surfactants may advantageously be chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof; the alkyl groups of these compounds notably including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26, and more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and more preferentially from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfate type are chosen from:
When the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfate type are in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfate type are chosen from sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium (C10-C22)alkyl sulfates, sodium, triethanolamine, ammonium or magnesium (C10-C22)alkyl ether sulfates, which are oxyethylenated, for example with 1 or 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.
Better still, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfate type are chosen from sodium, triethanolamine, ammonium or magnesium (C10-C22)alkyl sulfates or sodium, triethanolamine, ammonium or magnesium (C10-C22)alkyl ether sulfates, such as the compounds sold under the name Texapon Z95P by the company BASF, having the INCI name Sodium lauryl sulfate, or Texapon N701 by the company BASF, having the INCI name Sodium laureth sulfate.
Even more preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfate type are chosen from (C10-C22)alkyl ether sulfates and salts thereof, in particular sodium, triethanolamine, ammonium or magnesium (C10-C22)alkyl ether sulfates.
Advantageously, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfate type are chosen from sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from sodium lauryl ether sulfate.
Advantageously, the anionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from sulfonate-type anionic surfactants, carboxylic-type anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “anionic surfactant of sulfonate type” means an anionic surfactant including one or more sulfonic or sulfonate functions (—SO3H or —SO3−), which may optionally include one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (—COOH or —COO−) and which do not include any sulfate functions.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “anionic surfactant of carboxylate type” means an anionic surfactant including one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (—COOH or —COO−), and not including any sulfonic or sulfonate functions (—SO3H or —SO3−) and not including any sulfate functions.
Such anionic surfactants may advantageously be chosen from alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, sulfolaurates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, acyllactates, N-acylglycinates, N-acylsarcosinates, N-acylglutamates, alkyl ether carboxylates, alkyl glucose carboxylates, alkyl glucoside tartrates, alkyl glucoside citrates, in salified or non-salified form, and mixtures thereof; the alkyl groups of these compounds notably including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26 and more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and more preferentially from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
The following are most particularly preferred:
Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C10-C22)alkyl sulfates, notably sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium sulfates, (C10-C22)alkyl ether sulfates, notably sodium, triethanolamine, ammonium or magnesium ether sulfates, which are oxyethylenated, for example with 1 or 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.
Preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C10-C22)alkyl ether sulfates and salts thereof, in particular sodium, triethanolamine, ammonium or magnesium (C10-C22)alkyl ether sulfates, and mixtures thereof.
Most particularly, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate and mixtures thereof, more preferentially sodium lauryl ether sulfate.
The total content of the anionic surfactant(s) present in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, preferentially from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants of the sulfate type. The total content of the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfate type present in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention also comprises b) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention may notably be derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, which are optionally quaternized, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
Mention may in particular be made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.
Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, which are optionally quaternized, that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective structures (I) and (II) below:
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
Use may also be made of compounds of formula (III):
Among the compounds of formula (I), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
These compounds may be used alone or as a mixture.
Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is advantageously made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, such as cocoyl betaine (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, (C8-C20)alkylamphoacetates, (C8-C20)alkylamphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; and preferably (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof.
Preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof, better still from (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof.
The total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 15% by weight, better still from 1% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention also comprises c) at least one oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, the size being expressed on a volume basis, and comprising:
In the oil-in-water, or silicone-in-water, emulsion according to the invention, a liquid phase (the dispersed phase) is advantageously dispersed in another liquid phase (the continuous phase); in the present invention, the mixture of silicones (or silicone mixture), or silicone phase, is dispersed in the aqueous continuous phase.
The silicone mixture comprises one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, preferably of formula (I): R′3SiO(R′2SiO)pSiR′3 (I), in which:
The polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups according to the invention have a viscosity ranging from 40 000 to 100 000 mPa·s, preferably 100 000 being excluded at 25° C. preferably ranging from 40 000 to 70 000 mPa·s at 25° C., better still from 51 000 to 70 000 mPa·s at 25° C.
The polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups according to the invention are preferably linear, but they may comprise, in addition to the R′2SiO2/2 units (D-units), additional RSiO3/2 units (T-units) and/or SiO4/2 units (Q-units), in which R′, which may be identical or different, is a C1-C18 monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical.
Preferably, in formula (I), R′, which may be identical or different, is:
Preferentially, R′ is a methyl radical.
Preferably, the polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups are polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) bearing trialkylsilyl end groups.
The silicone mixture also comprises one or more amino silicones, preferably of formula (II):
Preferably, A is an amino radical of formula —R′—[NR2—R3—]xNR22, or the protonated form of this amino radical, with R1 being —CH2CH2CH2— or —CH2CH(CH3)CH2—, R2 being hydrogen atoms, R3 being —CH2CH2— and x being equal to 1.
Preferably, R, which may be identical or different, is:
Preferentially, R is a methyl radical.
The amino silicones according to the invention have a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1000 to 15 000 mPa·s, preferably from 1500 to 15 000 mPa·s.
The amino silicones according to the invention have an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, preferably from 3.5 to 8 mg. The molar percentage of amine function is preferably between 0.3 mol % and 8 mol %.
As examples of amino silicones, mention may be made of amino silicones bearing trialkylsilyl end groups; preferably aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, better still copolymers of aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane bearing trialkylsilyl end groups/dimethylsiloxane.
The amino radical A may be partially or totally protonated, for example by addition of acids to the amino silicone, so as to obtain the salified form of said amino radical.
As acids that may be used, mention may be made of linear or branched carboxylic acids containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, sorbic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid. Preferably, the acids may be used in a proportion of from 0.1 to 2.0 mol per mole of amino radical A in the amino silicone of formula (II).
The silicone mixture preferably comprises (i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 40 000 to 100 000 mPa·s, preferably 100 000 mPa·s being excluded, in an amount of from 70% to 90% by weight, preferably from 75% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture, and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1000 to 15 000 mPa·s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in an amount of from 10% to 30% by weight, notably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.
The oil-in-water emulsion also comprises a surfactant mixture which comprises one or more nonionic surfactants; said surfactant mixture may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.
Said surfactant mixture has an HLB ranging from 10 to 16.
The nonionic surfactants that may be used may be chosen from alcohols, α-diols and (C1-20)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or else these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and notably from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils, N—(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N—(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type, notably represented by the following general formula: R1O—(R2O)t-(G)v in which:
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8/C16 alkyl (poly)glucosides of 1-4 type, and notably decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.
Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Oramix CG 110 and Oramix® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70, or the products sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK.
Preferably, use is made of C8/C16 alkyl (poly)glycosides of 1-4 type, notably as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.
The mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants preferably comprise an average number of glycerol groups ranging from 1 to 30, notably from 1 to 10, better still from 1.5 to 5. They preferably correspond to one of the following formulae:
In particular, R may comprise one or more hydroxyl and/or ether and/or amide groups. Preferably, R is a mono- or polyhydroxylated C10-C20 alkyl or alkenyl radical.
Mention may be made of polyglycerolated (3.5 mol) hydroxylauryl ether, such as the product Chimexane® NF from Chimex.
Mention may also be made of (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols preferably comprising one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chains comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (OH) groups, notably 1 to 4 hydroxyl groups.
When the chain is unsaturated, it may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols preferably correspond to formula (II):
in which:
The nonionic surfactants may advantageously be chosen from:
The nonionic surfactants may advantageously be chosen from alkyl ethers and alkyl esters of polyalkylene glycol, notably of polyethylene glycol.
Mention may in particular be made of:
Better still, the nonionic surfactants may be chosen from Steareth-6, PEG100 stearate, trideceth-3 and trideceth-10, and mixtures thereof; most particularly, a mixture comprising these four nonionic surfactants.
The surfactant mixture may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants, which may be chosen from tetraalkylammonium, tetraarylammonium and tetraalkylarylammonium salts, notably halides, and most particularly from cetrimonium or behentrimonium salts, notably halides, better still chlorides.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the surfactant mixture in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, notably from 8% to 15% by weight, even better still from 10% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the nonionic surfactant(s) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, notably from 8% to 15% by weight, even better still from 10% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the cationic surfactant(s), when they are present, in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the silicone mixture in a total amount ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, notably from 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the polydialkylsiloxane(s) bearing trialkylsilyl end groups in a total amount ranging from 35% to 45% by weight, notably from 38% to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, notably from 8% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises water in a total amount ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, notably from 30% to 45% by weight, even better still from 35% to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion may also comprise a preserving agent, such as phenoxyethanol, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
A process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises:
The pH of the oil-in-water emulsion is generally between 4 and 6.
The oil-in-water emulsion has a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, notably between 100 and 300 nm, better still between 150 and 250 nm, even better still between 160 and 200 nm, the size being expressed on a volume basis.
This size corresponds to the average hydrodynamic particle diameter. The particle size D50 is expressed on a volume basis. It may be measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, based on the “Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS)” method.
The particle size of the emulsion is measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, based on the “Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS)” method.
The particle size D50 is measured when the evaluation algorithm is “cumulant analysis”.
0.5 g of the emulsion is placed in a 250 ml beaker, 100 ml of demineralized water are added and mixing is performed so as to obtain the solution to be tested. The solution to be tested is placed in the measuring cuvette (or cell) and introduced into the measuring device.
The size D50 corresponds to the particle diameter value at 50% in cumulative distribution.
For example, if D50=170 nm, this means that 50% of the particles have a size of greater than 170 nm, and that 50% of the particles have a size of less than 170 nm.
It should be recalled that this distribution is on a volume basis.
The viscosities, notably of the silicone compounds, are measured at 25° C., 1 atm.
To measure viscosities of between 1000 and 40 000 mPa·s at 25° C., use may be made of an Anton Paar rheometer, model MCR101, cylinder geometry, single gap: CC27 spindle, shear rate 1 s−1 for 2 minutes, at 25° C.
To measure viscosities of between 40 000 and 100 000 mPa·s at 25° C., use may be made of an Anton Paar rheometer, model MCR101, 25-6 cone (cone-plate geometry, 25 mm in diameter/6° cone); Zero gap, shear rate 1 s−1 for 2 minutes, at 25° C.
Three measurements are performed for each sample, and the viscosity value is taken at 60 seconds. The MCR Rheometer Series products operate according to the USP convention (US Pharmacopeia Convention, 912—Rotational Rheometer methods).
The amine number may be measured by acid-base titration, using a potentiometer [Make: Veego; model VPT-MG].
0.6 g of the sample is placed in a 500 ml beaker and a 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture is added, and the whole is then mixed.
The solution is titrated with 0.1 N HCl solution. Determination of the zero value (Vblank) is also performed with the 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture alone.
The amine number is calculated by means of the formula:
of sample
The term “HLB” relates to the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant. It may be measured experimentally or calculated.
In the present patent application, the HLB values are the values at 25° C.
The HLB values may be calculated by means of the following equation: HLB=(E+P)/5, in which E is the weight percentage of oxyethylene and P is the weight percentage of polyol, as described in the Griffin publication, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5, No. 4), pages 249-256.
The HLB values may also be determined experimentally according to the book by Puisieux and Seiller, entitled “Galenica 5: Les systèmes disperses [Galenics 5: Dispersed systems]—Volume I—Agents de surface et émulsions [Surface agents and emulsions]—Chapter IV—Notions de HLB et de HLB critique [Notions of HLB and of critical HLB], pages 153-194—paragraph 1.1.2. Détermination de HLB par voie expérimentale [Experimental determination of HLB], pages 164-180”.
Preferably, the HLB values that will be taken into account are those obtained by calculation, notably in the following manner: “calculated HLB”=20×(molar mass of the hydrophilic part/total molar mass).
Thus, for an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene units fused to the fatty alcohol and the “calculated HLB” then corresponds to the “HLB according to Griffin”.
For an ester or an amide, the hydrophilic part is generally defined as being beyond the carbonyl group, starting from the fatty chain(s).
The HLB values of nonionic surfactants may also be calculated by means of the Davies formula, as described in Davies JT (1957), “A quantitative kinetic theory of emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent”, Gas/Liquid and Liquid/Liquid Interface (Proceedings of the International Congress of Surface Activity): 426-438.
According to this formula, the HLB value is obtained by adding the hydrophilic/hydrophobic contribution linked to the constituent groups of the surfactant:
The HLB values of some cationic surfactants are given in Table IV, in “Cationic emulsifiers in cosmetics”, Godfrey, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists (1966) 17, pages 17-27.
When two surfactants A and B, of known HLB values, are mixed, the HLBMix corresponds to the HLB of the mixture and can be expressed by the following equation:
HLBMix=(WAHLBA+WBHLBB)/(WA+WB),
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the oil-in-water emulsion c) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the oil-in-water emulsion c) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the emulsion has a solids (or active material) content of between 40% and 60% by weight, notably 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the polydialkylsiloxane(s) bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 40 000 to 100 000 mPa·s, in a total amount ranging from 0.04% to 4% by weight, better still from 0.08% to 3.2% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 2.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the amino silicone(s) having a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1000 to 15 000 mPa·s and an amine number of from 2 to 10 mg KOH per gram of amino silicone in a total amount of from 0.02% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.04% to 1.6% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
As previously indicated, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more agents chosen from fatty amines, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.
Thus, said agent is a particular fatty substance chosen from a fatty amine, a fatty acid, a fatty alcohol and mixtures thereof.
The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at standard temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013×105 Pa), i.e. with a solubility of less than 5%, preferably of less than 1% and even more preferentially of less than 0.1%.
Fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C28, hydrocarbon-based chain.
Preferably, the fatty amines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
Advantageously, the fatty amines are chosen from the fatty amidoamines. Preferably, the fatty chain of the fatty amidoamines may be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.
The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 and notably C8-C28 hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not quaternized.
Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
Among the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula (B) below:
RCONHR″N(R′)2, in which: (B)
The fatty amidoamines of formula (B) are chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine sold by Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof, more preferentially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
Preferably, the fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
Preferably, they are chosen from linear saturated solid fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, the C8-30, preferably C12-22, alkyl chain possibly being substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
Preferably the fatty acids are monoacids, notably of formula R—COOH with R representing a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably linear and saturated, C8-C30, better still C10-C26, even better still C12-C22, alkyl group.
Preferably, the fatty acid(s) are chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, behenic acid and mixtures thereof, better still lauric acid, stearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and behenic acid, even more preferentially lauric acid.
Preferably, the fatty alcohols are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from solid, linear saturated fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the fatty alcohols are monoalcohols, advantageously C8-C30, better still C10-C26 and even better still C12-C22 monoalcohols.
Preferably, the fatty alcohol(s) are chosen from lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from lauryl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
Preferably, the composition comprises one or more fatty amines, notably one or more fatty amidoamines, even better still one or more fatty amidoamines of formula (B).
Advantageously, the total content of agent(s) chosen from fatty amines, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.3% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents.
Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from linear or branched monoalcohols containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferentially from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, polyols and notably those comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and 2 to 4 hydroxyl groups, polyethylene glycols, aromatic alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of organic solvents that may be used according to the invention, mention may notably be made of ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
The organic solvent(s) that may be used according to the invention may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from linear or branched monoalcohols containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably from ethanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof; polyols and more preferentially from glycerol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more organic solvents, preferentially one or more C2-C4 polyols and comprising 2 to 4 OH, better still glycerol.
The total content of the organic solvent(s), when they are present in the composition according to the invention, is preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight, more preferentially less than or equal to 15% by weight, and better still ranges from 0.1% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the composition may comprise water, notably in an amount of at least 60% by weight, better still of at least 65% by weight, even better still of at least 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, it may comprise water in a total amount ranging from 60% to 98% by weight, notably from 65% to 95% by weight, still better from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic polymers.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cationic polymer” denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
The cationic polymers are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any Si—O units).
The cationic polymers may be associative or non-associative.
The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5×106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3×106 approximately.
Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:
The copolymers of the family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower alkyls (C1-C4), acrylic acids or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group, for instance Polyquaternium-10.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are notably described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt, for instance Polyquaternium-4. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
Among the cationic cellulose derivatives, use may also be made of cationic associative celluloses, which may be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
Preferentially, mention may be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):
Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R′a, R′b or R′c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30, better still C10 to C24 or even C10 to C14 alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R′a, R′b or R′c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30, better still C10 to C24 or even C10 to C14 alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched C1 to C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
Better still, R may be a group chosen from —N+(CH3)3, Q′− and —N+(C12H25)(CH3)2, Q′−, preferably a group —N+(CH3)3, Q′−.
Even better still, R′ may be a group —N+(C12H25)(CH3)2, Q′−.
The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
Mention may notably be made of the polymers having the following INCI names:
Mention may also be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R′ represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferentially R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3)3N+—, Cl− and R′ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(C12H25)N+—, Cl−. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of the Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical.
More particularly, the polymers of formula (Ib) are, for example, those whose viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive, preferentially between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs. Use may also be made of Softcat Polymer SX-1300X with a viscosity of between 1000 and 2000 cPs.
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride). Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17, Jaguar C162 or Jaguar Excel by the company Rhodia. Such compounds have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
Mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymer sold, for example, under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and homologues thereof of low weight-average molar masses) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, notably sold under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR.
Preferably, X− is an anion, such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
Mention may be made more particularly of polymers consisting of repeating units corresponding to the formula:
A compound of formula (IX) that is particularly preferred is the one for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n=3, p=6 and X=C1, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.
Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
In other words, these polymers may be notably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides.
More preferentially, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof.
Even more preferentially, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic galactomannan gums, better still guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, even better still guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).
Advantageously, when the cationic polymer(s) are present, the total content of cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, when cationic galactomannan gums are present, the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s) ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.
Among the additives that may be used, mention may be made of reducing agents, thickeners, softeners, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, proteins, vitamins, polymers other than the polymers described previously, preserving agents, oils, waxes and mixtures thereof.
A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic treatment process, and notably a process for washing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of the composition according to the invention.
A subject of the present invention is also the use of the composition according to the invention for washing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.
In the examples that follow, all the amounts are given, unless otherwise indicated, as mass percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
450 g of fluid amino silicone (copolymer of dimethylsiloxane-aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane bearing trimethylsilyl end groups, having an amine number of 7.2 mg of KOH/g and a viscosity of 5600 mPa·s at 25° C.) are transferred into a first vessel; 1800 g of dimethylsiloxane bearing trimethylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity of 61 500 mPa·s at 25° C., are added, with stirring, and the stirring is maintained for 2 hours at room temperature.
In a separate vessel, 49 g of steareth-6 and 62 g of PEG100 stearate are mixed, and the mixture is heated to 60° C. The mixture is maintained at this temperature until a liquid mixture is obtained, and 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-10 (80% of active material) are then added. The surfactant mixture has an HLB=11.25. 80 g of water and 6.2 g of glacial acetic acid are added and the stirring is continued until a creamy paste is obtained.
The content of this second vessel (creamy paste) is then transferred into the first vessel (containing the silicones), and the mixture obtained is then mixed for 30 minutes at room temperature (20-25° C.). The mixing steps are performed so as to obtain a homogeneous mixture; they are performed at room temperature.
Finally, 40.5 g of 2-phenoxyethanol (preserving agent) are added and mixing is performed for 3 minutes.
An oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of 170 nm is obtained.
Compositions A1, A2, A3 and A4 according to the invention, as described in Table 1 below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as percentage of active material (% AM), unless otherwise mentioned.
Compositions A1 to A4 according to the invention have good foam properties in terms of creaminess, smoothness and density of the foam. A rich, creamy foam is obtained.
The foam is easily spread over the entire head of hair and is stable: it holds well on the hair until rinsing is performed.
After rinsing and drying, the hair is smooth, shiny and easy to shape.
Compositions A5 to A7 according to the invention, as described in Table 2 below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as percentage of active material (% AM), unless otherwise mentioned.
Compositions A5 to A7 according to the invention have good foam properties in terms of creaminess, smoothness and density of the foam. The foam spreads easily over the entire head of hair.
After rinsing and drying, the hair is smooth, shiny and easy to shape.
The density of the foam of composition A4 was characterized by granulometry, i.e. by measuring the size of the air bubbles trapped in the foam by image analysis.
Composition A4 was diluted to 33% in demineralized water. The foam was then generated with an electric whisk and then placed in a quartz cuvette 100 μm deep.
Images were taken and image analysis performed with a 2× binocular magnifier and Granix® and Ellix® software. The results obtained are collated in Table 3 below:
The composition according to the invention leads to a low mean diameter of the air bubbles and thus to a dense, smooth and creamy foam.
Composition A8 according to the invention and comparative composition B, as described in Table 4 below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as percentage of active material (% AM), unless otherwise mentioned.
Each of compositions A8 and B was diluted to 33% in demineralized water. Then, 3 foam samples were produced for each of the compositions A8 and B, using an automated foam generator.
In order to observe the internal structure of the generated foams, a small amount of foam is crushed between two glass slides to trap only a single layer of bubble.
The thickness between the two glass slides is 100 μm. The bubble monolayer is observed with a Zeiss STEMI SV11 binocular loupe at ×2 magnification.
The estimation of the number of bubbles per mm2 and the size distribution of the bubbles in 2 dimensions was carried out by digital image analysis (Grannix® and Ellix® software, three images analysed per sample). The results are in table 5 below.
The invention leads to smaller bubble sizes and also more bubbles per mm2 giving a denser, creamier, smoother foam.
Each of compositions A8 and B was diluted to 33% in demineralized water. Then, 2 foam samples were produced for each of the compositions A8 and B, using an automated foam generator.
The textural performance of the foam was evaluated by measuring its firmness, using a penetrometry protocol, performed on a TA.XT Plus texturometer.
In order to determine the firmness of the foams, the mobile of the texturometer penetrates the foam vertically over a distance of 40 mm and the resistance force (expressed in grams) of the foam on the mobile is measured.
The graph of the temporal evolution of the force measured during the penetration phase makes it possible to extract the parameters of interest: the firmness corresponds to the maximum value measured (average value of two tests).
The probe used is a polycarbonate disc of 5 mm thickness and 45 mm diameter.
The results are in table 6 below.
The force required to sink into foam A8 (according to the invention) is higher than that of foam B (comparative).
The foam generated by composition A8 (according to the invention) is firmer, denser and smoother than that generated by the comparative composition B.
Compositions A8 and B were applied to slightly sensitised hair strands (alkali solubility=20%, AS 20) at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per gram of hair.
The hair was then rinsed in a standardised manner, wrung out and dried in an oven.
The impact of the invention on performance in terms of lightness and suppleness was assessed on dry hair by 5 experts in a blind test on a rating scale from 0 (poor) to 5 (very good).
The assessment of suppleness is tactile. The expert takes hair in his hands and tries to bend it. He or she assesses whether the hair can be bent easily, whether it is malleable.
To assess lightness, the expert lifts the hair with his or her hands and looks at the way the hair falls: light hair is individual, flowing and does not fall in clumps.
The results obtained are collated in Table 7 below:
It clearly appears that the suppleness and lightness provided by composition A8 according to the invention were improved compared to those obtained with the comparative composition B. These results are significant in view of standard deviations.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR2105047 | May 2021 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2022/062977 | 5/12/2022 | WO |
