Patent Application
20160101040
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, especially a hair composition, comprising at least one nonionic associative polymer and at least one particular anionic surfactant, and also to a cosmetic treatment process using the said composition.
Hair has a tendency to lose some of its qualities due to the action of factors especially such as natural regreasing, sweat, the removal of squamae, pollution or humidity. The visual appearance and the feel of the hair can thus be damaged. Regreasing, for example, makes the hair lank, which then has a tendency to clump together. The hair may be increasingly difficult to style, and may have an unpleasant greasy sheen or an unpleasant waxy feel.
It is known practice to cleanse the hair with shampoos, which are generally aqueous compositions containing large amounts of surfactants, which are generally anionic surfactants, alone or in combination with amphoteric and/or nonionic surfactants. The total amounts of surfactants used usually exceed 10% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
These shampoos based on large amounts of anionic surfactants may cause discomfort such as stinging of the scalp or of the eyes when they come into contact with the shampoo.
Moreover, gradually in the course of their applications, these surfactants may impair the cosmetic properties of the hair, thus leading to the need also to use conditioning agents such as cationic polymers, silicones or non-silicone oils.
In addition, the rinsing of cosmetic compositions with a high content of surfactants may often be long.
Finally, to avoid running on application and especially running into the eyes, shampoos should generally be thickened; but their thickening may pose problems of stability of the composition.
In order to overcome these various problems, it has been proposed, for example by patent application FR 2 935 267, to add associative polymers to shampoo compositions, which makes it possible to reduce their content of standard surfactants. At and above a certain concentration, these associative polymers have sufficient detergent power to enable cleansing of the hair in the presence of very small amounts of surfactants, or even in the absence of these surfactants.
However, although they afford detergency similar to that obtained with a standard shampoo, the compositions thus obtained still have insufficient foaming nature; in addition, the cosmetic properties imparted to the hair are still not entirely satisfactory, in particular on dry hair.
The aim of the present invention is to propose cosmetic hair compositions that overcome these drawbacks, and especially that are capable of generating an adequate foam, both in quality and quantity, and that give the hair satisfactory cosmetic properties, most particularly on dry hair.
One subject of the invention is thus a non-colouring cosmetic composition, especially a hair composition, comprising:
The composition according to the invention is non-colouring. According to the present invention, the term “non-colouring composition” means a composition not containing any dye for keratin fibres such as direct dyes or oxidation dye precursors (bases and/or couplers). If they are present, their content does not exceed 0.005% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Specifically, at such a content, only the composition would be dyed, i.e. no dyeing effect would be observed on the keratin fibres.
In the present description, the term “at least one” is equivalent to the term “one or more” and can be replaced therewith.
In the present description, the term “between” is equivalent to the term “ranging from” and can be replaced therewith; in these terms, the limits are considered as being included.
Associative Nonionic Polymer
The composition according to the invention thus comprises one or more associative nonionic polymers.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polymer” means any compound derived from the polymerization by polycondensation or from the radical polymerization of monomers, at least one of which is other than an alkylene oxide, and of a monofunctional compound of formula RX, R denoting an optionally hydroxylated C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, and X denoting a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxyl or ester group. Any compound derived solely from the simple condensation of an alkylene oxide with a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, a fatty amide or a fatty amine is in particular excluded.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “associative polymer” means an amphiphilic polymer that is capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with itself or with other molecules. It generally comprises in its chemical structure at least one hydrophilic zone or group and at least one hydrophobic zone or group.
The term “hydrophobic group” means a radical or polymer comprising a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain. When the hydrophobic group denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical, it comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or else from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol, such as Steareth-100. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
The associative nonionic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are preferably chosen from:
(1) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples that may be mentioned include:
(2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one C8-C30 fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhodia,
(3) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208,
(4) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer,
(5) polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences,
(6) polymers with an aminoplast ether backbone bearing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix compounds sold by the company Sud-Chemie,
(7) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers, such as the products Antaron V216 or Ganex V216 (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company ISP; the products Antaron V220 or Ganex V220 (vinyl pyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer) sold by the company ISP.
The nonionic associative polymer(s) are preferably chosen from polyurethane polyethers.
Preferably, the associative nonionic polyurethane polyethers according to the invention comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
The associative polyurethane polyethers according to the invention may be multiblock polymers, in particular in triblock or multiblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example multiblock copolymer). These polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.
Preferably, the associative polyurethane polyethers according to the invention are triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups.
Preferably, the associative nonionic polyurethane polyethers according to the invention bear the hydrophobic grafts at the end of the chain (telechelic polymers).
Preferentially, the associative nonionic polyurethane polyethers according to the invention are triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 and especially from 100 to 300 oxyethylene groups; and comprising at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by the said hydrophilic block, the said hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic block.
The associative nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name. By extension, also included among the associative nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprising a hydrophobic chain are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the hydrophobic blocks via other chemical bonds.
Preferably, the associative nonionic polyurethane polyethers according to the invention have a mass-average molecular weight (Mw) of less than or equal to 500 000 and better still less than or equal to 100 000.
As examples of associative nonionic polyurethane polyethers according to the invention, mention may be made of:
Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include:
The associative nonionic polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention may also be chosen from those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen—Colloid Polym. Sci. 271, 380-389 (1993).
Preferably, use is made of an associative nonionic polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 100 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and (iii) a diisocyanate.
Such a polymer is especially sold by the company Elementis under the name Rheolate FX 1100®, which is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 mol of ethylene oxide and of hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of 30 000 (INCI name: PEG-136/Steareth-100/HDI Copolymer).
According to another preference, use is made of an associative nonionic polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
Such polymers are especially sold by the company Röhm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44®.
Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%) (INCI name: PEG-150/Stearyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer).
Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) (INCI name: PEG-150/Decyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer).
The composition according to the invention comprises the associative nonionic polymers in an amount ranging from 2% to 60% by weight, preferably from 2.5% to 40% by weight, better still from 2.7% to 20% by weight or even from 2.75% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Carboxylate Anionic Surfactant
The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more carboxylate anionic surfactants.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “carboxylate anionic surfactant” means an anionic surfactant comprising one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (—COOH or —COO−). They may also optionally comprise one or more sulfonate functions; preferably, however, the carboxylate anionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any sulfonate functions.
They may be chosen advantageously from acylglycinates, acylsarcosinates, acyllactylates and acylglutamates, the acyl groups preferably comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and also the corresponding salified forms. These compounds may be optionally oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Use may also be made of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside citrates, alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and alkylsulfosuccinamates, the alkyl group of these compounds comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
Mention may also be made of alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids and salts thereof and also polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkyl(C6-30)aryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C14-30)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
Salts that may be mentioned in particular include alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts, for example magnesium salts.
Amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Preferentially, the carboxylate anionic surfactants are chosen from (C14-C30)acylglutamates and in particular stearoylglutamates, lauroylglutamates and cocoylglutamates; (C14-C30)acylsarcosinates and in particular palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates and cocoylsarcosinates; (C14-C30)acyllactylates and in particular behenoyllactylates, lauroyllactylates and (iso)stearoyllactylates; alkyl ether carboxylates and in particular lauryl ether carboxylates; and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, amine or amino alcohol salts.
Mention may be made more particularly of disodium cocoylglutamate and sodium lauroylsarcosinate.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the said carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) in an amount of less than or equal to 10% by weight, especially ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight and preferentially from 1.5% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional Surfactants
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional surfactants, preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants other than the above carboxylate anionic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants.
Examples of additional anionic surfactants that may be mentioned include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, and also the corresponding salified forms, the alkyl and acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group; these compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
When the anionic surfactants are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts. Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
Among the additional anionic surfactants, (C6-C24)acylisethionates, (C6-C24)alkyl sulfosuccinates and (C6-C24)alkyl sulfates, and also (C6-C24)alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and (C6-C24)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units are most particularly preferred; these compounds may be in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol or alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
Better still, (C12-C20)acylisethionates, (C12-C20)alkyl sulfates and (C12-C20)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds, are preferred.
The additional nonionic surfactants that may be used may be chosen from alcohols, α-diols and (C1-20)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or bearing a fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.
Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, N—(C6-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-14alkyl)amine oxides or N—(C10-14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
Preferentially, use is made of ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan and polyethoxylated fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type, represented especially by the following general formula: R1O—(R2O)t-(G)v in which:
Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds having the formula described above in which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, may range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactant is an alkylpolyglucoside surfactant.
Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Triton CG110 (or Oramix® CG 10) and Triton CG312 (or Oramix NS 10); the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70, or the products sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK. Preferably, use is made of C8/C16-alkyl polyglycosides 1,4, especially as an aqueous 53% solution, such as the product sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.
Preferably, the additional nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type.
The additional amphoteric surfactants that may be used in the invention may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylsulfobetaines.
Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, mention may also be made of the products having the following respective structures (A2) and (A3):
Ra—CON(Z)CH2—(CH2)m—N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO−) (A2)
in which:
Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra—COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group;
Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
m is equal to 0, 1 or 2;
Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;
Ra′—CON(Z)CH2—(CH2)m′—N(B)(B′) (A3)
in which:
B represents —CH2CH2OX′, with X′ representing —CH2—COOH, CH2—COOZ′, —CH2CH2—COOH, —CH2CH2—COOZ′, or a hydrogen atom,
B′ represents —(CH2)z—Y′, with z=1 or 2, and Y′ representing —COOH, —COOZ′, CH2—CHOH—SO3H or —CH2—CHOH—SO3Z′,
m′ is equal to 0, 1 or 2,
Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;
Z′ represents an ion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,
Ra′ represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra′COOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
The compounds corresponding to formula (A3) are preferred. These compounds are also classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.
Use may also be made of compounds of formula (A4):
Ra″—NH—CH(Y″)—(CH2)n—C(O)—NH—(CH2)n′—N(Rd)(Re) (A4)
in which:
Ra″—C(O)OH, which is preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;
Mention may in particular be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C8-C20)alkyl betaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkyl betaines and (C8-C20)alkylamphodiacetates, and also the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total amount of nonionic surfactants (optional), anionic surfactants (total, i.e. carboxylates and optional additional) and amphoteric surfactants (optional) ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 8% by weight and preferentially from 1.5% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total amount of surfactants (cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic) ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 8% by weight and preferentially from 1.5% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the ratio (weight percentage) “nonionic surfactants (optional)+anionic surfactants (total)+amphoteric surfactants (optional)”/“nonionic associative polymers” is less than or equal to 3; it preferably ranges from 0.01 to 3, especially from 0.01 to 2.8 and preferentially from 0.1 to 2.5.
Polymers
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polymers other than the nonionic associative polymers according to the invention, especially chosen from amphoteric and cationic polymers, and also mixtures thereof.
The term “cationic polymer” means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5×106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3×106 approximately.
Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:
in which:
The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4)alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
(2) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are especially described in French patent 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethyl cellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described especially in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, the chloride). Such products are especially sold under the trade names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia.
(3) Polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers.
(4) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.
(5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyamino amide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(7) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):
in which:
Mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymer sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and homologues thereof of low weight-average molar masses) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, sold especially under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR.
(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:
in which:
it being understood that A1, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a group (CH2)n—CO-D-OC—(CH2)n— in which D denotes:
Preferably, X− is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
Mention may be made more particularly of polymers that are composed of repeating units corresponding to the formula:
in which R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X− is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n=3, p=6 and X═Cl, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.
(9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):
in which:
Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
(11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
(12) Polymers comprising in their structure:
(b) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
(b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
In other words, these polymers may be chosen especially from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol % to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol % to 100 mol % of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol % of units corresponding to formula (B).
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may be performed in an acidic or basic medium.
The weight-average molecular mass of the said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
The cationic charge density of these polymers may range from 2 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold especially under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolyzates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from the polymers of families (1), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above.
Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, the ones that may preferably be used are cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by the company Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymers or copolymers, products sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, and homologues thereof of low weight-average molecular weights, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
It is also possible to use amphoteric polymers, which may preferably be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of:
(i) one or more units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type,
(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and
(iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i) are units of structure (Ia) below:
in which R1 denotes H or CH3 and R2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino or —NH—CH2OH radical.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (Ia).
The unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (Ia) in which R1 denotes H and R2 is an amino radical (NH2) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) are units of structure (IIa):
in which:
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (IIa).
Among these units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type of formula (IIa), the ones that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R3 denotes a methyl radical, k is equal to 3, R5, R6 and R7 denote a methyl radical, and Y− denotes a chloride anion.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) are units of formula (IIIa):
in which R8 denotes H or CH3 and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical or a —NH—C(CH3)2—CH2—SO3H radical.
The preferred units of formula (IIIa) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (IIIa) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which R8 denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical.
The acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non-neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (IIIa).
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol % of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol % to 70 mol % and more preferably from 40 mol % to 60 mol % of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type.
The content of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol % to 60 mol % and preferentially from 20 mol % to 55 mol %.
The content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol % to 20 mol % and preferentially from 5 mol % to 15 mol %.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type, of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of (meth)acrylic acid type as described above.
However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the said amphoteric polymers consist solely of units derived from monomers (i) of (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type.
As an example of amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of acrylamide/methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10th edition 2004, under the name Polyquaternium 53. Corresponding products are especially sold as Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by Nalco.
As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. An example that may be mentioned is Merquat 280 sold by the company Nalco.
The composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic and/or amphoteric polymers in an amount of between 0.01% and 5% by weight, especially from 0.05% to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Other Ingredients
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in any galenical form conventionally used and especially in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, an aqueous or anhydrous gel, or of any other cosmetic form.
The composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous and then comprises water at a concentration preferably ranging from 5% to 98% by weight, especially from 20% to 95% by weight and better still from 50% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition may also comprise one or more organic solvents that are liquid at 25° C. and 1 atm., and especially water-soluble, such as C1-C7 alcohols, especially C1-C7 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, and C3-C7 polyols and polyol ethers, which may thus be used alone or as a mixture with water. Advantageously, the organic solvent may be chosen from ethanol and isopropanol, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one common cosmetic ingredient, other than the compounds of the invention, chosen especially from plant, mineral, animal or synthetic oils; solid fatty substances and especially waxes, C8-C40 esters and C8-C40 acids; C8-C40 alcohols; cationic surfactants, anionic polymers; sunscreens; moisturizers; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; nacreous agents and opacifiers; plasticizers or coalescers; hydroxy acids; fillers; silicones and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); fragrances; basifying or acidifying agents; aldehydes, DHA; thickeners other than the nonionic associative polymers according to the invention, and preferably chosen from non-polymeric thickeners and non-associative polymeric thickeners. The composition can, of course, comprise several cosmetic ingredients appearing in the above list. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition and the amounts thereof so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
The pH of the composition, if it is aqueous, is preferably between 3 and 9 and especially between 3 and 6.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention especially finds a particularly advantageous application in the field of haircare and hair hygiene, especially for caring for and/or cleansing the hair and/or the scalp.
The cosmetic composition may be rinsed out or left in after having been applied to the hair and/or the scalp; it is preferably rinsed out, after an optional leave-on time. The composition according to the invention may be conditioned in a tube, in a bottle optionally equipped with a pump, or alternatively in an aerosol. In the case of an aerosol, the composition may then contain one or more standard propellants.
A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment process, especially for caring for and/or cleansing the hair and/or the scalp, comprising the application to the hair and/or the scalp of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, optionally followed by rinsing, after an optional leave-on time.
The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples that follow.
The following hair compositions are prepared (weight percentage of commercial material):
Detergent compositions with a foaming effect are obtained, which may be used for cleansing the hair, and which lead to good cosmetic properties on dry hair.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1355041 | Jun 2013 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2014/061042 | 5/28/2014 | WO | 00 |
