Patent Application
20190350836
The invention relates to a composition in the form of a fat phase-in-water emulsion comprising a mixture of solid fatty substances and of thickening polymers. The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for treating the skin.
In the course of the process of ageing, impairment of the structure and functions of the skin appears, giving rise to slackening of the skin, which is manifested especially by the loss of elasticity of the skin and by the loss of volume of the face, and also by the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. A person skilled in the art knows that such slackening can be corrected immediately by applying a tensioning agent to the skin.
At the present time, the use of numerous tensioning polymers for treating wrinkles is known to those skilled in the art. Acrylic-grafted silicone polymers or interpenetrating polymer networks are thought of in particular for smoothing out wrinkles via a tensioning effect, described especially in EP 1 038 519 and FR 2 843 025.
Unfortunately, compositions containing such tensioning agents, although having a very satisfactory immediate tensioning effect, have the drawback of presenting a certain level of discomfort to the user on account of the skin tautness generated by the tensioning polymer.
Furthermore, the tensioning polymer film does not always have good persistence on account of its fragmentation over time giving rise to cracking and fluffing, and also a loss of efficacy over time of the tensioning effect.
Consequently, there is a need for cosmetic compositions that can efficiently treat skin slackening in a manner that is comfortable to the user.
The Applicant has discovered that a composition comprising a particular mixture of solid fatty substances and particular thickening polymers as defined below makes it possible, after application to the skin, in particular to facial skin, to provide a surface covering for the skin, which maintains the skin at the surface by providing a sensation of containment. The skin is less slack, tighter and firmer. The covering effect also gives rise to tightening of the skin pores.
The skin is enveloped with a supple, comfortable (absence of tautness) and invisible covering film. The covering effect of the applied composition contributes towards reducing the appearance of the fine lines of the skin, in particular the fine lines close to the eyes. As soon as the cream is applied to the skin, the user feels the surface covering effect affording a sensation of restructuring and redensifying of the skin tissues. The covering effect is perceived on each application of the composition to the skin: it is felt by the user even after several weeks of use.
The composition applied to the skin also gives the skin a matt effect, and also an effect of concealing and attenuating skin defects such as fine lines and pores.
In addition, the composition according to the invention has good stability, especially after storage for one month, or even two months, at room temperature (25° C.) and at 45° C. The composition remains homogeneous and does not show any phase separation or any release of oil at the surface of the composition. The hardness of the composition as described below varies little.
Furthermore, during application of the composition to the skin, the composition is easy to spread on account of the fondant texture of the composition, thus allowing uniform distribution of the product on the surface of the skin: it penetrates easily into the skin. After application, the applied product is not tacky or greasy and has a soft, pleasant feel, without any sensation of heaviness.
More specifically, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of a fatty phase-in-water emulsion comprising:
(a) a first solid fatty substance with a hardness, at 25° C., ranging from 0.2 to 2 MPa;
(b) a second solid fatty substance with a hardness, at 25° C., ranging from 5 to 15 MPa;
(c) an associative aqueous gelling polymer.
The present invention also relates to a process for preparing said composition.
The present invention similarly relates to a process for the treatment, especially the cosmetic treatment, of the skin, comprising the application of the composition described previously to the skin. The skin treatment process is in particular a process for treating slackening of the skin and/or for reducing the appearance of the fine lines of the skin.
The process is in particular performed on the skin of the face (cheeks, forehead, chin, around the eyes) and the neck.
Fatty Phase
The composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase which comprises at least two different solid fatty substances as defined below.
Solid Fatty Substances:
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one first solid fatty substance with a hardness, at 25° C., ranging from 0.2 to 2 MPa and at least one second solid fatty substance with a hardness ranging from 5 to 15 MPa.
The hardness of the solid fatty substance is measured according to the following protocol:
An amount of about 15 g of solid fatty substance is heated to 85° C., poured into an aluminium capsule 75 mm in diameter and 15 mm deep and then left to cool for 24 hours at room temperature (25° C.). The capsule is filled to 75%.
The hardness the solid fatty substance is measured with a TA/TX2i Plus texturometer (Swantech) equipped with a cylindrical spindle chosen according to the texture of the solid fatty substance:
The measurement comprises three steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample, where the spindle moves at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrates into the solid fatty substance to a depth of 0.3 mm, the software notes the maximum compression force value reached; a second “relaxation” step where the spindle remains at this position for one second and the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally, a third “withdrawal” step in which the spindle returns to its initial position at a speed of 1 mm/s, and the spindle withdrawal energy (negative force) is noted.
The hardness value corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in newtons divided by the area of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm2 in contact with the solid fatty substance. The hardness value obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa.
Five measurements are taken on each sample, and the mean of the five measurements is then calculated.
Advantageously, the first solid fatty substance has a melting point below or equal to 45° C. (especially ranging from 28 to 45° C.), preferably ranging from 28 to 40° C.
Advantageously, the second solid fatty substance has a melting point above 45° C., preferably above 45° C. and below or equal to 90° C.
The solid fatty substances may be chosen from pasty fatty substances and waxes.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pasty” refers to a water-immiscible compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, and comprising, at a temperature of 23° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The pasty fatty substance may be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin. The pasty fatty substance may be a hydrocarbon-based or silicone substance.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25° C.), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state. For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a solid fatty substance may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q100 by the company TA Instruments, with the TA Universal Analysis software.
The measurement protocol is as follows:
A sample of about 5 mg of solid fatty substance is placed in a “hermetic aluminium capsule” crucible.
When the solid fatty substance is soft (pasty fatty substance), the sample is subjected to a first temperature rise going from 20° C. to 80° C., at a heating rate of 2° C./minute up to 80° C., it is left at the 80° C. isotherm for 20 minutes and is then cooled from 80° C. to −80° C. at a cooling rate of 2° C./minute, and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise going from −80° C. to 20° C. at a heating rate of 2° C./minute.
When the solid fatty substance is hard (wax), the sample is subjected to a first temperature rise going from 20° C. to 120° C., at a heating rate of 2° C./minute up to 80° C., it is left at the 120° C. isotherm for 20 minutes and is then cooled from 120° C. to 0° C. at a cooling rate of 2° C./minute, and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise going from 0° C. to 20° C. at a heating rate of 2° C./minute.
The melting point value of the solid fatty substance is the value at the top of the most endothermic peak observed in the melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
The waxes that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be waxes of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin. The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone and/or fluoro waxes.
The first solid fatty substance may be chosen from:
Advantageously, the alkylene oxide of the copolymer may comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferentially from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
The weight-average molecular weight of the copolymer ranges from 5000 to 8000, preferably from 5500 to 7000, preferentially from 5500 to 6500 and more preferentially from 5800 to 6200.
The copolymer advantageously comprises from 35 to 55 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units and from 15 to 30 alkylene oxide units containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms.
In particular, the copolymer is such that the ratio between the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units and the number of alkylene oxide units containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms may range from 1.5 to 2.5, preferably range from 1.8 to 2.3 and preferentially range from 1.9 to 2.1.
Such copolymers are especially described in FR-A-2 425 848. Use is preferably made of a block copolymer of polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol such as the copolymers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by AkzoNobel (INCI name: PEG-45/dodecyl glycol copolymer).
According to a preferred embodiment, the first solid fatty substance is chosen from:
Preferentially, the first solid fatty substance is chosen from mango butter, cocoa butter; the mixture of Mimosa, jojoba and sunflower plant waxes; hydrogenated jojoba oil; and mixtures thereof.
The first solid fatty substance may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight and better still from 2% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The second solid fatty substance may be chosen from fatty substances with a hardness, at 25° C., ranging from 5 to 15 MPa, preferably ranging from 6 to 12 MPa.
The second solid fatty substance may be chosen from:
Use is preferentially made of poly(stearyl acrylate) homopolymers;
Preferably, the second solid fatty substance is chosen from waxes of animal origin and in particular white beeswax; C16-C50 fatty alcohols and in particular stearyl alcohol; mineral waxes and in particular ozokerite, microcrystalline wax; plant waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax; hydrogenated jojoba oil; polyethylene wax; C10 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate homopolymers; and mixtures thereof.
In a particular embodiment of the invention, the second solid fatty substance is chosen from plant waxes such as candelilla wax or carnauba wax; mineral waxes and in particular ozokerite; C10 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate homopolymers (poly(stearyl acrylate) or poly(behenyl acrylate) homopolymers), and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the second solid fatty substance comprises a C10 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate homopolymer, in particular a poly(stearyl acrylate) or poly(behenyl acrylate) homopolymer, and preferentially a poly(stearyl acrylate) homopolymer; optionally combined with a plant wax or a mineral wax such as those described previously.
The second solid fatty substance may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight and better still from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the first and second solid fatty substances may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 6% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 6% to 20% by weight, preferentially ranging from 8% to 16% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 10% to 14%.
According to one embodiment, the first and second solid fatty substances are present in the composition according to the invention in a mass ratio of first solid fatty substance to second solid fatty substance ranging from 0.4 to 0.8, preferably ranging from 0.45 to 0.75 and preferentially ranging from 0.5 to 0.7.
Associative Aqueous Gelling Polymer:
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one associative hydrophilic gelling polymer. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “associative polymer” means an amphiphilic polymer that is capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with itself or with other molecules. It generally comprises, in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.
The term “hydrophobic group” means a group or a polymer bearing a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain. When it denotes a hydrocarbon-based group, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based hydrophobic group originates from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or else from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol, such as Steareth-100. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, such as, for example, polybutadiene.
The term “hydrophilic gelling polymer” means a polymer that is capable of thickening an aqueous medium.
Advantageously, the associative hydrophilic gelling polymer is chosen from nonionic associative polyurethane polyethers, C12-C20 fatty alcohol ethers of nonionic hydroxyethylcellulose and anionic associative acrylic polymers.
Among the anionic associative acrylic polymers, mention may be made of:
(1) copolymers derived from the polymerization of:
(i) (meth)acrylic acid,
(ii) a monomer of formula (II) below:
CH2═CR′CH2OBnR (II)
in which R′ denotes H or CH3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy group (—CH2—CH2—O—), n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100 (especially from 5 to 15) and R denotes a hydrocarbon-based group chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more particularly from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.
A monomer of formula (II) that is more particularly preferred is a monomer in which R′ denotes H, n is equal to 10 and R denotes a stearyl (C18) group.
Such anionic associative polymers are described in patent EP-0 216 479.
Among these anionic associative polymers, the ones that are particularly preferred are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, from 2% to 50% by weight of monomer of formula (II), and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
Among the latter polymers, preference is given most particularly to terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol allyl ether containing 10 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Steareth-10 allyl ether/acrylates copolymer), especially in 40/50/10 respective weight proportions, such as the product sold under the name Salcare SC 80 by the company Ciba.
(2) associative polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated ethylenic carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of (C10-C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
Preferably, these polymers are chosen from copolymers of (i) a monomer of formula (III) below:
in which R1 denotes H, CH3 or C2H5, and of (ii) a monomer of formula (IV) below (monomer of (C10-C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type):
H2C═CR1—COOR3 (IV)
in which R1 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 and preferably H or CH3, R3 denotes a C10-C30 and preferably C12-C22 alkyl group.
In this polymer, the monomer (III) constitutes the hydrophilic unit and the monomer (IV) constitutes the hydrophobic unit. (C10-C30)Alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids comprise, for example, lauryl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate, decyl (meth)acrylate, isodecyl (meth)acrylate and dodecyl (meth)acrylate.
Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to patents U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.
Among the anionic associative polymers of this type that will be used more particularly are polymers formed from a monomer mixture comprising:
(i) acrylic acid,
(ii) an ester of formula (IV) described above in which R1 denotes H or CH3 and R3 denotes an alkyl group containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms,
(iii) and optionally a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
Among the anionic associative polymers of this type, use will be made more particularly of:
those constituted of 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid, 4% to 40% by weight of a C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and 0 to 6% by weight of a crosslinking polymerizable monomer,
or alternatively those constituted of 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid, 1% to 4% by weight of a C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of a crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those described previously.
Among the abovementioned polymers, the ones that are most particularly preferred are the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol ETD 2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20 and Carbopol Ultrez 21 (INCI name: Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer), and even more preferentially Pemulen TR1 and Carbopol 1382.
(3) acrylic terpolymers comprising:
(a) from 19.5% to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms,
(b) from 20% to 80% by weight of C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates,
(c) 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic urethane macromonomer of formula (IV) below:
in which p ranges from 6 to 150 and R2 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals comprising from 18 to 26 and preferably from 20 to 24 carbon atoms. Preferably, the radical R2 is a behenyl radical.
Such terpolymers are described especially in patent application EP-A-0 173 109.
The α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid (a) may be chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid. It is preferably (meth)acrylic acid. Preferentially, the monomer (a) is methacrylic acid.
The terpolymer contains a monomer (b) chosen from C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates such as methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate or butyl (meth)acrylate. The monomer (b) is preferably chosen from methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate.
Such terpolymers are generally in the form of an aqueous dispersion.
Use is preferentially made of a terpolymer of methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/condensate of dimethyl meta-isopropylenyl benzyl isocyanate and of polyoxyethylenated (40 OE) behenyl alcohol (INCI name: Polyacrylate-3), such as the product sold in the form of an aqueous dispersion at 25% by weight, under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by the company The Dow Chemical Company.
(4) copolymers of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a polyoxyethylenated C12-C30 fatty alcohol, especially with 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and of an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C1-C4 alcohol.
Examples of such copolymers that may be mentioned include:
polymers of acrylic acid, of methyl acrylate and of 20 OE polyoxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate crosslinked with pentaerythrityl allyl ether or trimethylolpropane allyl ether (INCI name: Acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer) sold under the name Aculyn 88 Polymer by the company The Dow Chemical Company,
crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid, of methyl acrylate and of 25 OE polyoxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate (INCI name: Acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer), such as the product sold under the name Novethix L-10 Polymer by the company Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.,
polymers of acrylic acid, of methyl acrylate and of 25 OE polyoxyethylenated C12-C24 alkyl methacrylate (INCI name: Acrylates/palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer), such as the product sold under the name Synthalen W2000 L by the company 3V Group,
polymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl methacrylate, of polyethylene glycol C16-C22 alkyl ether methacrylate containing 25 ethylene glycol units, of the ether of 2-(6,6-dimethylbicyclo[3.1.1]hept-2-en-2-yl)ethyl methacrylate and of polypropylene glycol containing 5 propylene glycol units and of polyethylene glycol containing 25 ethylene glycol units (INCI name: Polyacrylate-33), such as the product sold under the name Rheomer® 33 by the company Rhodia Novecare.
The nonionic associative polymers that may be used in the invention are preferably chosen from:
(5) C12-C20 fatty alcohol ethers of hydroxyethylcellulose, for instance cetyl alcohol ethers of hydroxyethylcellulose (INCI name: Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) such as the products sold under the names Natrosol® Plus 330 CS Modified Hydroxyethylcellulose or Polysurf Modified Hydroxyethylcellulose sold by the company Ashland.
(6) nonionic associative polyurethane polyethers:
Preferably, the nonionic associative polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms which are separated by a hydrophilic block, it being possible for the hydrocarbon-based chains to be side chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more side chains to be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
The polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer having a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.
The nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 10 to 500 and preferably from 10 to 300 oxyethylene groups.
In a first variant, use may be made of a polyurethane polyether derived from the polycondensation of:
(i) a polyethylene glycol comprising from 120 to 250 mol of ethylene oxide,
(ii) a polyoxyethylenated monoalcohol comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms (especially decyltetradecyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol) comprising from 15 to 120 mol of ethylene oxide (especially from 20 to 100 OE), and
(iii) a diisocyanate containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, chosen especially from methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), and preferably HDI.
Such polyurethane polyethers are, for example:
In a second variant, use may be made of a polyurethane polyether derived from the polycondensation of:
(i) a polyethylene glycol comprising from 130 to 200 mol of ethylene oxide,
(ii) a monoalcohol comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, especially decyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol, and
(iii) a diisocyanate containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, chosen especially from methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), and preferably SMDI.
Such polyurethane polyethers are, for example:
In a third variant, use may be made of a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 200 mol of ethylene oxide, ether of polyethylene glycol containing 10 mol of ethylene oxide and/or of methylglucose, ether of polyethylene glycol containing 6 mol of ethylene oxide and of tridecyl alcohol, hexamethylene diisocyanate, and containing C16-C20 alcohol end groups, such as the product sold under the name Avalure® Flex 6 Polymer by the company Lubrizol (INCI name: Polyurethane-62).
Use is preferably made of the polyurethane polyethers described previously as examples.
Preferably, the associative polymers as described above have a weight-average molecular mass of less than 500 000 and even more preferentially of less than 100 000, preferably ranging from 5000 to 80 000, which may be measured via the methods known to those skilled in the art.
Preferably, the associative polymer is chosen from:
Preferentially, the associative polymer is chosen from methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/polyoxyethylenated (40 OE) behenyl alcohol dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemical) (INCI name: Polyacrylate-3).
The composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of associative aqueous gelling agents as described previously.
According to one embodiment, the composition may comprise the combination:
i) of an acrylic terpolymer described in (3) previously, and preferably a terpolymer of methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/condensate of dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate and of polyoxyethylenated (40 OE) behenyl alcohol (INCI name: Polyacrylate-3), such as the product sold in the form of an aqueous dispersion at 25% by weight, under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by the company The Dow Chemical Company; and
ii) of an associative polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated ethylenic carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of (C100-C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
According to another embodiment, the composition may comprise the combination
i) of an acrylic terpolymer described in (3) previously, and preferably a terpolymer of methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/condensate of dimethyl meta-isopropylenyl benzyl isocyanate and of polyoxyethylenated (40 OE) behenyl alcohol (INCI name: Polyacrylate-3), and
ii) of a C12-C20 fatty alcohol ether of hydroxyethylcellulose, preferably a cetyl alcohol ether of hydroxyethylcellulose.
The associative hydrophilic gelling polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight.
Additional Hydrophilic Gelling Agent
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one particular additional aqueous gelling agent as described below.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “aqueous gelling agent”, also referred to as a “hydrophilic gelling agent”, means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention.
The additional aqueous gelling agent is different from the associative polymer described previously.
The additional aqueous gelling agent is chosen from the following compounds:
(1) crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
The homopolymer may be crosslinked with a crosslinking agent, chosen especially from pentaerythrityl allyl ether, sucrose allyl ether and propylene allyl ether.
Such polymers have the INCI name: Carbomer Use may be made, for example, of the polymers sold by the company Lubrizol under the names Carbopol 980 or 981, or Carbopol Ultrez 10, or by the company 3V under the name Synthalen K or Synthalen L or Synthalen M.
(2) carrageenans.
Carrageenans are sulfated polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging especially to the Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae families. Among these red algae, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of Kappaphycus alvarezii, Eucheuma denticulatum, Eucheuma spinosum, Chondrus crispus, Betaphycus gelatinum, Gigartina skottsbergii, Gigartina canaliculata, Sarcothalia crispata, Mazzaella laminaroides, Hypnea musciformis, Mastocarpus stellatus and Iridaea cordata. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae.
These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately by α(1,3) and β(1,4) bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the α-D-galactopyranosyl residues may be in 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and position of sulfate-ester groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenans are distinguished, namely: kappa-carrageenans, which bear one sulfate-ester group, iota-carrageenans, which bear two sulfate-ester groups, and lambda-carrageenans, which bear three sulfate-ester groups.
The carrageenans may be used in acid form or in salified form. Acceptable salts that may be mentioned, in a non-limiting manner, include the lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium, zinc and ammonium salts or the salts obtained with an organic base counterion, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, especially triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms and may thus comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functions; mention may be made especially of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, 2-dimethylamino-2-propanol and triethanolamine.
Mention may also be made of lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine. These sulfated polysaccharides may also comprise a mixture of counterions from among those defined above in a non-limiting manner.
Carrageenans are sold especially by the company SEPPIC under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the names Carragel®, Carralact® and Carrasol®, by the company Cargill under the names Satiagel™ and Satiagum™, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names Genulacta®, Genugel® and Genuvisco®.
Iota-carrageenans are advantageously used.
(3) Alkali Metal Salts of Acrylic Acid Homopolymers:
The homopolymer used according to the invention is chosen in particular from sodium polyacrylates and potassium polyacrylates. Sodium polyacrylate is preferably used.
The acrylic acid homopolymer may be advantageously neutralized to a degree ranging from 5% to 80%.
As sodium polyacrylate that can be used according to the invention, use may be made of those sold under the names Cosmedia SP® or Cosmedia SPL® by the company Cognis, or else Luvigel® EM sold by the company BASF.
Preferentially, the additional aqueous gelling agent is chosen from the alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, and in particular from sodium polyacrylate homopolymers.
The additional hydrophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight and better still ranging from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oil
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil.
The term “oil” means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 105 Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” refers to an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at room temperature, with a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10−3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
The term “non-volatile oil” refers to an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that especially has a vapour pressure of less than 10−3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
The oil may be chosen from any oil, which is preferably a physiologically acceptable oil, in particular mineral, animal, plant or synthetic oils; in particular volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils and/or fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.
More precisely, the term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si—O group.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fluoro oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
Hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises an oil different from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin (triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol), especially such as those described previously, and optionally an additional oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin (triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol).
The oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0% to 30% (or 0.1% to 30%) by weight, preferably ranging from 0% to 20% (or 0.1% to 20%) by weight, preferentially ranging from 0% to 15% (or 0.1% to 15%) by weight and better still ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
When the composition according to the invention comprises an oil, the first and second solid fatty substances are advantageously present in a weight ratio of (first and second solid fatty substances)/oil ranging from 0.5 to 1.5, preferably ranging from 0.6 to 1.4, preferentially ranging from 0.7 to 1.3 and better still ranging from 0.9 to 1.2.
Surfactant
The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic non-silicone surfactant, which is preferably an emulsifying surfactant.
The nonionic non-silicone surfactant may be chosen from:
Preferably, the nonionic non-silicone surfactant may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, especially containing from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and (C8-C30)alkyl (poly)glucosides.
Preferentially, the nonionic non-silicone surfactant may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, especially containing from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide.
The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, especially containing from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, may be chosen from C12-C18 fatty alcohols, in particular polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially containing from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:
cetyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 2 OE (Ceteth-2)
cetyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 6 OE (Ceteth-6)
cetyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 10 OE (Ceteth-10)
cetyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 20 OE (Ceteth-20)
cetyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 24 OE (Ceteth-24)
lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 2 OE (Laureth-2)
lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 3 OE (Laureth-3)
lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 4 OE (Laureth-4)
lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 7 OE (Laureth-7)
lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 9 OE (Laureth-9)
lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 10 OE (Laureth-10)
lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 12 OE (Laureth-12)
lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 21 OE (Laureth-21)
lauryl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 23 OE (Laureth-23)
stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 2 OE (Steareth-2)
stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 10 OE (Steareth-10)
stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 20 OE (Steareth-20)
stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 21 OE (Steareth-21)
cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 2 OE (Ceteareth-2)
cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 10 OE (Ceteareth-10)
cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 20 OE (Ceteareth-20)
cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 25 OE (Ceteareth-25)
cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 30 OE (Ceteareth-30)
cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 40 OE (Ceteareth-40)
cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 50 OE (Ceteareth-50)
cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 60 OE (Ceteareth-60)
cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 80 OE (Ceteareth-8)
cetearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 OE (Ceteareth-100)
The nonionic surfactants may also be chosen from C8-C30 fatty alcohol ethers of a sugar, in particular (C8-C30)alkyl (poly)glucosides.
The alkyl (poly)glucoside may be chosen from a group comprising the compounds having the following general formula:
R1O-(G)a
in which R1 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, the G group denotes a sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms and a is a number ranging from 1 to 10, and mixtures thereof.
The alkyl (poly)glucoside may be chosen especially from the group comprising C8-C22 fatty alcohol ethers or mixtures of ethers of glucose or of xylose, preferably of glucose.
The unit (or chain) derived from the fatty alcohol of the ethers may be chosen especially from caprylyl, capryl, decyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl (or palmityl), stearyl, octyldodecyl, arachidyl, behenyl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl.
In a particular embodiment, the alkyl (poly)glucoside is chosen from caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, octyldodecyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl xyloside, octyldodecyl xyloside, and a mixture thereof, preferably cetearyl glucoside and arachidyl glucoside.
Examples of alkyl (poly)glucosides that may be mentioned include caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 by the company SEPPIC, decyl glucoside sold, for example, under the names Plantaren 2000 by the company Henkel, Plantacare 2000 UP by the company Cognis, Mydol 10 by the company Kao, or Oramix NS 10 by the company SEPPIC, lauryl glucoside sold, for example, by the company Henkel under the name Plantaren 1200, cocoyl glucoside sold, for example, under the name Plantacare 818 UP by the company Cognis, cetearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC or under the name Xyliance by the company Soliance, under the name Tego Care CG90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE 3302 by the company Henkel, and also arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC, the mixture of cocoyl polyglucoside and of cetyl and stearyl alcohols (35/65) sold, for example, under the name Montanov 82 by the company SEPPIC, octyldodecyl xyloside sold under the names Fluidanov 20X or Easynov by the company SEPPIC, myristyl glucoside, and especially in the form of a mixture with myristyl alcohol, for instance the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montanov 14, mixtures of (C12-C20)alkyl glucosides especially as a mixture with C14 to C22 fatty alcohols, for instance the mixture sold under the name Montanov L by the company SEPPIC, and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the alkyl (poly)glucoside is chosen from arachidyl glucoside, especially as a mixture with arachidyl and behenyl alcohols, such as the product sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC, and mixtures thereof.
The ethers of polyethylene glycol, especially containing from 20 to 120 ethylene oxide units, and of a C8-C30 fatty acid ester of glucose or of methylglucose, may be chosen from:
the ether of polyethylene glycol containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide and of the mixture of methylglucose monoester and diester of caprylic/capric acids (INCI name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquicaprylate/sesquicaprate)
the ether of polyethylene glycol containing about 80 mol of ethylene oxide and of the methylglucose ester of lauric acid (INCI name: PEG-80 methyl glucose laurate)
the ether of polyethylene glycol containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide and of the mixture of methylglucose monoester and diester of lauric acid (INCI name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquilaurate)
the ether of polyethylene glycol containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide and of the mixture of methylglucose monoester and diester of stearic acid (INCI name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate)
the ether of polyethylene glycol containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide and of the methylglucose diester of stearic acid (INCI name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate)
the ether of polyethylene glycol containing about 120 mol of ethylene oxide and of the methylglucose triester of stearic acid (INCI name: PEG-120 methyl glucose triisostearate)
the ether of polyethylene glycol containing about 120 mol of ethylene oxide and of the methylglucose diester of oleic acid (INCI name: PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate)
the ether of polyethylene glycol containing about 120 mol of ethylene oxide and of the methylglucose triester of oleic acid (INCI name: PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate).
The C8-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan may be chosen from:
sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan isostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate
sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate;
sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate
sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; sorbitan tristearate.
The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan especially containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, of sorbitan especially containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 OE) (Polysorbate-21)
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-20)
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-40)
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-60)
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 OE) (Polysorbate-61)
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-80)
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 OE) (Polysorbate-81)
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-65)
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-85)
The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18)fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters) of sorbitan, especially containing from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters, especially containing from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular such as lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, and of sorbitan, such as:
the ester polyoxyethylenated with 20 OE of sorbitan and of cocoic acid (PEG-20 sorbitan cocoate);
the diester polyoxyethylenated with 40 OE of isostearic acid and of sorbitan (PEG-40 sorbitan diisostearate);
the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 2 to 20 OE) of sorbitan and of isostearic acid (such as PEG-2 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Nikkol TI 10 V by the company Nikkol);
the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 2 to 40 OE) of sorbitan and of lauric acid (such as PEG-10 sorbitan laurate; PEG-40 sorbitan laurate);
the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 2 to 40 OE) of sorbitan and of oleic acid containing 10 oxyethylene groups (such as PEG-6 sorbitan oleate; PEG-20 sorbitan oleate);
the polyoxyethylenated esters (especially containing from 3 to 60 OE) of sorbitan and of stearic acid (such as PEG-3 sorbitan stearate; PEG-4 sorbitan stearate; PEG-6 sorbitan stearate; PEG-40 sorbitan stearate; PEG-60 sorbitan stearate);
the polyoxyethylenated tetraesters (especially containing from 30 to 60 OE) of sorbitan and of oleic acid (such as PEG-30 sorbitan tetraoleate; PEG-40 sorbitan tetraoleate; PEG-60 sorbitan tetraoleate);
the polyoxyethylenated triesters (especially containing from 4 to 60 OE) of sorbitan and of (iso)stearic acid (such as PEG-4 sorbitan triisostearate; PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate; PEG-3 sorbitan tristearate).
The C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid monoesters of glycerol may be chosen from glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl isostearate (Peceol Isostearique from Gattefossé), glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl behenate (Compritol 888 ATO from Gattefossé), glyceryl arachidate; glycerol diesters such as glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl dimyristate, glyceryl dipalmitate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl dibehenate, glyceryl diarachidate.
The polyglycerolated C8-C30 fatty acid esters especially containing from 2 to 16 mol of glycerol may be chosen from polyglycerolated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic or isostearic acid, especially containing from 2 to 16 mol of glycerol, such as:
polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate;
polyglyceryl-2 myristate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, polyglyceryl-4 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate;
polyglyceryl-2 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, polyglyceryl-10 palmitate;
polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate;
polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate.
The C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, especially containing from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, may be chosen from:
PEG-8 behenate; PEG-8 caprylate; PEG-8 caprate; PEG-6 caprylate/caprate; PEG-8 caprylate/caprate; PEG-5 cocoate; PEG-8 cocoate; PEG-9 cocoate; PEG-10 cocoate; PEG-15 cocoate; PEG-4 ethylhexanoate; PEG-5 ethylhexanoate; PEG-13 ethylhexanoate; PEG-2 isostearate; PEG-4 isostearate; PEG-6 isostearate; PEG-8 isostearate; PEG-10 isostearate; PEG-12 isostearate; PEG-20 isostearate; PEG-30 isostearate; PEG-40 isostearate; PEG-2 laurate; PEG-4 laurate; PEG-6 laurate; PEG-8 laurate; PEG-9 laurate; PEG-10 laurate; PEG-12 laurate; PEG-14 laurate; PEG-20 laurate; PEG-32 laurate; PEG-75 laurate; PEG-150 laurate; PEG-2 oleate; PEG-4 oleate; PEG-6 oleate; PEG-8 oleate; PEG-10 oleate; PEG-12 oleate; PEG-14 oleate; PEG-16 oleate; PEG-20 oleate; PEG-32 oleate; PEG-75 oleate; PEG-150 oleate; PEG-6 palmitate; PEG-18 palmitate; PEG-20 palmitate; PEG-2 stearate; PEG-4 stearate; PEG-6 stearate; PEG-8 stearate; PEG-10 stearate; PEG-14 stearate; PEG-18 stearate; PEG-20 stearate; PEG-25 stearate; PEG-30 stearate; PEG-35 stearate; PEG-40 stearate; PEG-45 stearate; PEG-50 stearate; PEG-55 stearate; PEG-75 stearate; PEG-80 stearate; PEG-90 stearate; PEG-100 stearate; PEG-120 stearate; PEG-150 stearate.
The C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters of glucose or of (C1-C2)alkylglucose or of sucrose may be chosen from glucose palmitate, (C1-C2)alkylglucose sesquistearates, for instance methylglucose sesquistearate, (C1-C2)alkylglucose palmitates, for instance methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more especially the diester of methylglucoside and of oleic acid (INCI name: Methyl glucose dioleate); the ester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (INCI name: Methyl glucose isostearate); the ester of methylglucoside and of lauric acid (INCI name: Methyl glucose laurate); the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (INCI name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate); the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and of stearic acid (INCI name: methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name Glucate SS by the company Amerchol, and mixtures thereof.
Sucrose esters that may be mentioned include sucrose cocoate; sucrose dilaurate; sucrose distearate; sucrose laurate; sucrose myristate; sucrose oleate; sucrose palmitate and sucrose stearate.
The nonionic non-silicone surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 2.5% by weight and even better still ranging from 0.4% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous Phase
The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase comprises at least water. Water may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 25% to 90% by weight, ranging from 30% to 80% by weight and better still from 40% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous phase may comprise at least one organic solvent that is water-miscible at room temperature (25° C.), for instance linear or branched monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butantol, isobutanol, pentanol or hexanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, sorbitol and polyethylene glycols containing from 2 to 200 ethylene units, and mixtures thereof. The water-miscible organic solvent may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Organopolysiloxane Elastomer
The composition of the invention may comprise at least one non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane, also referred to in the rest of the description as a “silicone elastomer”. The term “elastomer” means a deformable, flexible solid material having viscoelastic properties and especially the consistency of a sponge or of a supple sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has limited stretchability and contractibility. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching. This elastomer is formed from polymer chains of high molecular weight, the mobility of which is limited by a uniform network of crosslinking points.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the elastomeric organopolysiloxane(s) used in the composition are partially or totally crosslinked. They may then be in the form of particles. These particles may have any form and may, for example, be spherical, flat or amorphous.
When they are included in an oily phase, these elastomeric organopolysiloxanes become transformed, depending on the amount of oily phase used, into a product of spongy appearance when they are used in the presence of small amounts of oily phase, or into a homogeneous gel in the presence of larger amounts of oily phase. The gelation of the oily phase with these elastomers may be total or partial.
Thus, the elastomers of the invention may be conveyed in the form of an anhydrous gel constituted of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane and of an oily phase. The oily phase used in the manufacture of the anhydrous gel of elastomeric organopolysiloxane contains one or more oils that are liquid at room temperature (25° C.) chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils. Advantageously, the oily phase is a liquid silicone phase, containing one or more oils chosen from linear-chain or cyclic-chain polydimethylsiloxanes, which are liquid at room temperature, optionally comprising an alkyl or aryl chain that is on the side or at the end of the chain, the alkyl chain containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes used according to the invention may be chosen from the crosslinked polymers described in patent application EP-A-0 295 886 and from those described in patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,266,321. They may be emulsifying or non-emulsifying.
The term “non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxanes” refers to a silicone elastomer not comprising a hydrophilic chain, such as a (poly)oxyalkylene or (poly)glycerol chain.
The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A1) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
Compound (A1) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane/laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.
Compound (C1) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
The term “non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxanes” refers to organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerol units.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer(s) are elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxanes which may be obtained via a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or via a dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a hydroxy-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin compound; or via a crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxy-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or via thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or via crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.
Preferably, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a different silicon atom, and (B) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, for instance as described in patent application EP-A-295 886.
In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and of trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking reaction is performed by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).
Compound (A) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower (for example C2-C4) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A) may have a branched chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear chain structure is preferred. Compound (A) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (A) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25° C.
The organopolysiloxanes (A) may be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers.
Compound (B) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 hydrogens bonded to silicon in each molecule and is thus the crosslinking agent for compound (A).
Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule in compound (A) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon per molecule in compound (B) is at least 4.
Compound (B) may be in any molecular structure, especially in a linear chain, branched chain or cyclic structure.
Compound (B) may have a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (A).
It is advantageous for compound (B) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon in compound (B) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (A) is in the range from 1/1 to 20/1.
Compound (B) may be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane copolymers and dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers.
Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
Catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
Other organic groups may be bonded to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A) and (B) described previously, for instance alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
The non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the non-emulsifying elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles.
The non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxanes used in the composition of the invention may be, for example, those sold under the names KSG 6 by the company Shin-Etsu; Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C by the company Dow Corning; Gransil (SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556) by the company Grant Industries, or those sold in the form of already-constituted gels: KSG 15, KSG 16, KSG 17, KSG 18, KSG 26A, KSG 26B, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 from the company Shin-Etsu; Gransil SR 5CYC Gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 Gel, Gransil SR DC556 Gel and Gransil RPS from Grant Industries; 1229-02-167 and 1229-02-168 from the company General Electric.
Use may also be made of silicone elastomers having the INCI name dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone copolymer (or polysilicone-11) as a mixture with a cyclic silicone oil. Examples that may be mentioned include the mixture of crosslinked organopolysiloxane/cyclopentasiloxane or a mixture of crosslinked organopolysiloxane/cyclohexasiloxane, for instance Gransil RPS D5 or Gransil RPS D6 from the company Grant Industries.
Mention may also be made of the elastomers sold under the references DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505 and DC 9506 by the company Dow Corning. Use may also be made of a mixture of silicone elastomers, and especially a mixture of these commercial products.
The non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane may be present in the composition according to the invention in an (active material) content ranging from 0 to 2% (or 0.1% to 2%), preferably ranging from 0 to 1.5% (0.1% to 1.5%) by weight and preferentially ranging from 0 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition of the invention may comprise additives that are common in the cosmetic and/or dermatological fields, such as moisturizers, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, free-radical scavengers, sequestrants, antioxidants, preserving agents, acidifying or basifying agents, fragrances, film-forming agents, fillers, dyestuffs, UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a compact texture and thus has a particular rheological profile, due to the presence of the solid fatty substances and of the associative aqueous gelling polymer.
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a hardness, at 25° C., ranging from 1 to 30 kPa (better still from 2 to 30 kPa or from 3 to 30 kPa), preferably ranging from 1 to 15 kPa (better still from 2 to 15 kPa or from 3 to 15 kPa) and preferentially ranging from 1 to 10 kPa (better still from 2 to 10 kPa or from 3 to 10 kPa).
The hardness of the composition is measured at 25° C. according to the following protocol:
The composition is packaged in a leveled-off 15 ml glass cosmetics jar.
The compression force is measured with a TA XT2i texturometer and the Texture Expert Exceed software. The spindle used is the stainless-steel P/6 mm cylinder, with the following parameters:
Spindle descent speed: 1 mm/s
Measuring speed: 1 mm/s
Penetration depth: 5 mm
Spindle withdrawal speed: 10 mm/s
The measurements are taken on two samples.
The value obtained is the maximum force Fmax expressed in grams (g).
The hardness is calculated according to the equation: D=Fmax/S
D: hardness in MPa
Fmax: Maximum force measured, expressed in newtons (1N equals 101.97 g)
S: Contact area of the spindle πr2 (mm2) (i.e. 28.26 mm2)
The invention also relates to a process for preparing the composition according to the invention, comprising the following steps:
the aqueous phase containing the water, the associative gelling polymer, optionally the additional hydrophilic thickening polymer and the hydrophilic additives is homogenized at a temperature ranging from 60 to 90° C., preferably from 70 to 75° C.;
the fatty phase, comprising the first and second solid fatty substances and optionally comprising the oil, the non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane and the lipophilic additives, is homogenized at a temperature ranging from 75 to 100° C., preferably from 85 to 90° C.;
the homogenized fatty phase is then introduced into the homogenized aqueous phase at a temperature ranging from 60 to 90° C., preferably from 70 to 75° C.;
the mixture is then allowed to cool to room temperature.
Unless otherwise mentioned, the amounts indicated are mass amounts relative to the total weight of the composition.
In the compositions described below, the following solid fatty substances were used, having the hardness and melting point indicated (listed in increasing order of hardness):
Mango butter sold under the name Trivent Mango Butter by the company Alzo (hardness=0.26 MPa; m.p.=36.1° C.)
Mixture of Mimosa, jojoba and sunflower plant waxes sold under the name Acticire by the company Gattefossé (hardness=0.49 MPa; m.p.=38.2° C.)
Cocoa butter sold under the name CT Cocoa Butter Deodorized by the company Dutch Cocoa BV (hardness=1.05 MPa; m.p.=32° C.)
Hydrogenated jojoba oil butter sold under the name Iso Jojoba 50 by the company Desert Whale (hardness=1.14 MPa; m.p.=30° C.)
Paraffin wax sold under the name Sasol Wax 5603 by the company Sasol (hardness=7.4 MPa; m.p.=58.1° C.)
Ozokerite wax sold under the name Paracera ARFB by the company Paramelt (hardness=8.8 MPa; m.p.=55.8° C.)
Stearyl alcohol (hardness=9.27 MPa; m.p.=62° C.)
Polystearyl acrylate sold under the name Intelimer IPA 13-1 NG Polymer by the company Air Products and Chemicals (hardness=9.5 MPa; m.p.=47° C.)
Candelilla wax sold under the name Candelilla Wax SP 75 G by the company Strahl & Pitsch (hardness=9.6 MPa; m.p.=64.9° C.)
Behenyl alcohol (hardness=10.6 MPa; m.p.=67.4° C.)
Carnauba wax sold under the name Cerauba T3 by the company Baerlocher (hardness=10.7 MPa; m.p.=82.3° C.)
The associative aqueous gelling agents used are as follows:
Rheoluxe 811 (Elementis): PEG-136/Steareth-100/HDI Copolymer
Viscophobe DB 1000 (Dow Chemical Company): Terpolymer of methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/condensate of dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate and of polyoxyethylenated (40 OE) behenyl alcohol (INCI name: Polyacrylate-3)
Aculyn 44 Polymer (Dow Chemical Company): polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) (INCI name: PEG-150/Decyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer)
Adekanol GT-730 (Adeka USA Corporation): polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 240 mol of ethylene oxide, polyoxyethylenated decyltetradecyl alcohol containing 20 ethylene oxide units and hexamethylene diisocyanate (INCI name: PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether)
Polysurf modified hydroxyethylcellulose (Ashland): cetylhydroxyethylcellulose
Pemulen TR-1 Polymer (Noveon): acrylic acid/stearyl methacrylate copolymer polymerized in an ethyl acetate/cyclohexane mixture
The following two facial care compositions were prepared (weight contents):
The aqueous phase was homogenized at a temperature of about 70-75° C. The fatty phase was homogenized at a temperature of about 85-90° C. The fatty phase was then introduced into the aqueous phase, such that the emulsification temperature was between 70 and 75° C., over 10 minutes. The thickener was then added. The mixture was then allowed to cool to room temperature.
The compositions obtained are stable after storage for two months, at room temperature (25° C.) and at 45° C.; they have a compact texture in accordance with their hardness.
Compositions 1 and 2 were evaluated by a panel of 12 women from 40 to 60 years old who were regular users of anti-ageing care products. These women applied compositions 1 and 2 to the skin of their face under the usual application conditions.
The panel judged that the compositions tested have the following cosmetic properties:
On application, compositions 1 and 2 are easy to spread and penetrate quickly. The textures are non-tacky and afford a sensation of softness on application.
After application of compositions 1 and 2 to the face, no sensation of tautness or tackiness was experienced.
After 3 days of use, compositions 1 and 2 are judged to be comfortable.
For composition 1, the majority of the panel found an anti-ageing effect (smooth, taut skin) and a skin-firming effect.
For composition 2, the majority of the panel found that the facial pores are tightened, and also found an anti-ageing effect (taut, reinvigorated, tonified, firmed skin, attenuation of fine lines).
The following facial care composition was prepared:
The composition obtained has a hardness of 6.59 kPa.
The composition obtained is stable after storage for two months, at room temperature (25° C.) and at 45° C.; it has a compact texture in accordance with its hardness.
The composition was evaluated by a panel of 12 women over 55 years old to obtain the perception by the panel of the sensation on use and the effects perceived on the skin.
The panel judged that the composition tested has the following cosmetic properties:
The composition has a compact texture: when the composition packaged in a jar is taken up with a finger, the finger does not enter the composition but remains in contact with the surface of the composition.
On application to facial skin, the composition penetrates rapidly into the skin, despite its compactness. After application, the skin is enveloped with a covering film.
Capacity for covering the surface of the skin, especially giving rise to tightening of the pores, which maintains the skin at the surface, affording a sensation of containment.
The skin feels like it is enveloped with a supple, invisible covering film.
The user has a sensation of restructuring and redensifying of the skin tissues.
The following skincare compositions were prepared:
The compositions obtained are stable after storage for two months, at room temperature (25° C.) and at 45° C.; compositions 4 to 8, 10 and 11 have a compact texture in accordance with their hardness.
The compositions spread and penetrate easily on/into the skin. After application, the applied compositions are not tacky or greasy and have a soft, pleasant feel, without any sensation of heaviness.
After application to facial skin, the compositions afford a covering on the surface of the skin, which maintains the skin at the surface, affording a sensation of containment. The skin is firmer and the skin pores are tightened. The skin is enveloped with a supple, comfortable (absence of tautness) and invisible covering film.
The following two facial care compositions were prepared:
The compositions obtained are stable after storage for two months, at room temperature (25° C.) and at 45° C.; they have a compact texture in accordance with their hardness.
The compositions spread easily on the skin, and are not tacky or greasy after application: they have a soft, pleasant feel, without any sensation of heaviness.
On application to facial skin, the compositions afford a comfortable (absence of tautness), supple covering on the surface of the skin, which maintains the skin at the surface, affording a sensation of containment. The skin is firmer and the skin pores are tightened.
Two compositions (Examples 14, 15) outside the invention, similar to the composition of Example 3 but without the Acticire (first solid fatty substance) and without the Viscophobe DB 1000 (associative aqueous gelling agent), respectively, were prepared.
The hardnesses of each composition were measured at T0 and also at T 2 months after storage at 45° C.; the variation of the hardness of the compositions after storage was calculated.
The cosmetic properties were evaluated by applying each composition to facial skin.
By comparison with the composition of Example 3 according to the invention:
loss of stability: 37% drop in hardness
Application to the skin: the composition spreads less well, it is less film-forming and drags more; it imparts less of a soft feel. There is a decrease in the covering effect on the surface of the skin.
loss of stability: 30% drop in hardness
Application to the skin: the composition has a less thick consistency under the fingers, it is more slippery; it does not give a covering effect on the surface of the skin (this effect is not perceived).
One composition outside the invention, similar to the composition of Example 3 but without the Viscophobe DB 1000 (associative aqueous gelling agent) and with in place, in same amount of active material, poly acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and crosslinked (Hostacerin AMPS®)
The composition obtained has a hardness of 1.74 kPa.
Comparing to the composition of the example 3, the composition of example 16 is more supple (less compact); after application on the skin, the skin is enveloped with a covering film which affording a lower sensation of containment and which have a lower matt effect. The film is also more tacky.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1662627 | Dec 2016 | FR | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2017/083167 | 12/15/2017 | WO | 00 |
