Patent Application
20070128233
Many cosmetic compositions, including pigmented cosmetics such as foundations, concealers, lipsticks, mascaras, and other cosmetic and sunscreen compositions, have been developed for comfortable application and wear. However many of these compositions are difficult to apply and do not have a smooth feel upon application. Furthermore, compositions may have a tendency to be tacky, resulting in poor application and spreadability characteristics. There is still a need, therefore, for improved long-wearing cosmetic compositions with cushiony, soft and silky feel upon application.
Accordingly, a need exists for a cosmetic composition which is stable, with good pay off, spreadability and unique texture resulting in an excellent sensory feel.
The present invention is directed to a method of making-up a keratinous substrate involving contacting the keratinous substrate with a cosmetic composition containing: (i) at least one polyorganosiloxane-containing polymer, (ii) an oil phase containing at least one oil component, and (iii) at least one cured silicone powder coated with microfine particles.
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about”.
It has been surprisingly discovered that by combining at least one polyorganosiloxane-containing polymer, an oil phase containing at least one oil component, and at least one cured silicone powder coated with microfine particles, a (semi)solid cosmetic composition can be formed having a unique texture with a powdery yet cushiony feel, good pay-off and excellent storage stability.
The Polyorganosiloxane-containing Polymer
The polyorganosiloxane-containing polymer useful herein is a polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having at least one moiety which contains: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to about 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions.
The polyorganosiloxane-containing polymers may comprise at least one moiety corresponding to formula (I):
in which:
1) R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from:
2) X, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkylenediyl group, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms;
3) Y is a saturated or unsaturated, C1 to C50 linear or branched divalent alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene group, optionally comprising one or more oxygen, sulphur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or optionally substituted with one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C3 to C8 cycloalkyl, C1 to C40 alkyl, C5 to C10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with one to three C1 to C3 alkyl, C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl, and C1 to C6 aminoalkyl groups;
4) G, which may be identical or different, represents a group chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea groups, and combinations thereof;
5) m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1,000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200; and
6) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200.
The polyorganosiloxane-containing polymers may also comprise at least one moiety corresponding to formula (II):
in which
According to another embodiment, it is also possible to use a copolymer comprising several different moieties of formula (I), and/or several different moieties of formula (II), that is to say a polymer in which at least one of the groups R1, R2, R3, R4, X, G, Y, m and n is different in one of the moieties.
It is also possible to use a copolymer comprising at least one moiety of formula (I) and at least one moiety of formula (II), the moieties of formula (I) and the moieties of formula (II) possibly being identical to, or different from, each other. These copolymers may be block copolymers or grafted copolymers.
Additional polyorganosiloxane-containing polymers which may be used in the composition of the invention include those described in documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,874,069, U.S. Pat. No. 5,919,441, U.S. Pat. No. 6,051,216, and U.S. Pat. No. 5,981,680, the entire contents of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
A preferred polyorganosiloxane-containing polymer for use in the present invention will have at least one moiety chosen from formula (III):
and formula (IV)
in which:
(a) R1, R2, R3 and R4 are the same or different and may be selected from the group consisting of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, a siloxane chain, and phenyl;
(b) X is a linear or branched chain alkylene having 1-30 carbons;
(c) Y is selected from the group consisting of linear or branched chain alkylenes having 1-40 carbons;
(d) m is an integer ranging from 1 to 700; and
(e) n is an integer ranging from 1 to 500.
Particularly preferred polyorganosiloxane-containing polymers useful herein are commercially available from Dow Corning as DC 8178 and DC 8179, which are known under the INCI denomination of Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer.
The polyorganosiloxane-containing polymer can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 50% by weight; such as from about 0.5 to about 40% by weight; such as from about 2 to about 30% by weight; such as from about 2 to about 20% by weight; such as from about 2 to about 15% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.
Oil Phase
The composition of the invention also contains an oil phase having at least one oil component, which may be volatile or non-volatile, chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
The expression “volatile oil” means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil in the composition of the invention is an organic oil, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 10−2 to 300 mmHg (1.33 to 40,000 Pa) and, for example, greater than 0.03 mmHg (4 Pa) and further example greater than 0.3 mmHg (40 Pa).
The expression “non-volatile oil” means any non-aqueous medium capable of remaining on the skin or the lips at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, such as those having a vapor pressure of less than 10−2 mmHg (1.33 Pa).
The expression “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil comprised of carbon and hydrogen atoms, optionally having at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, ester, carboxyl and ether groups.
Examples of suitable volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched C8 to C16 alkanes such as C8 to C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopar or Permethyl, the C8 to C16 branched esters such as isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate, alcohols, and their mixtures. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils have a flash point of at least 40° C.
Examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include, but are not limited to those given in Table 1 below.
According to another embodiment, the composition may contain one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, which may be of natural and synthetic origin. Examples of suitable non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which may be used in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to,:
The composition of the present invention may also contain one or more volatile silicone oils, which may be linear or cyclic, having a viscosity, at room temperature, of less than or equal to 6 cSt, and having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
Examples of suitable volatile silicone oils include, but are not limited to, those listed in Table 2 below.
Other examples of volatile silicone oils include, but are not limited to, linear silicone oils such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,338,839 and WO03/042221, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.
The composition of the present invention may also contain one or more non-volatile silicone oils. Examples of suitable non-volatile silicone oils include, but are not limited to, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain; phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids (especially of C8-C20), fatty alcohols (especially of C8-C20) or polyoxyalkylenes; amino polysiloxanes; polysiloxanes containing hydroxyl groups; fluoro polysiloxanes comprising a fluorinated group that is pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, all or some of the hydrogen atoms of which are replaced with fluorine atoms; and mixtures thereof.
In one embodiment, the compositions of the present invention are substantially free of silicone oils (i.e., contain less than about 5% silicone oils). In another embodiment, the compositions are substantially free of hydrocarbon-based oils (i.e., contain less than about 5% hydrocarbon-based oils). In another embodiment, the compositions are substantially free of non-volatile oils (i.e., contain less than about 5% non-volatile oils).
The oil phase is present in the composition in an amount of from about 1 to about 99% by weight; such as from about 5 to about 95% by weight; such as from about 10 to about 80% by weight; such as from about 15 to about 60% by weight; such as from about 20 to about 50% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.
Cured Silicone Powder Coated with Microfine Particles
The cured silicone powder coated with microfine particles used in the present invention is described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,492,945, U.S. Pat. No. 5,756,568 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,945,471, the entire contents of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
The cured silicone powder is a silicone powder with an average (number average) particle size of from about 0.1 to about 500 μm; such as from about 0.5 to about 200 μm; such as from about 0.5 to about 20 μm. The nature of the cured silicone may be, for example, a gel, rubber, or cured resin, with rubbers being preferred. The cured silicone powder may have, for example, a spherical, disk-shaped, amorphous shape. A spherical shape is preferred.
Suitable microfine particles which can be used to coat the cured silicone powder include, but are not limited to, inorganic particles such as silicon oxide (silica), titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, zirconium oxide, antimony oxide, and other metal oxide microfine inorganic particles; boron nitride, aluminum nitride, and other metal nitride microfine particles; sulfate microfine particles, chloride microfine particles, and the like. Preferred microfine particles are metal oxide microfine particles, with silica microfine particles being most preferred. Also suitable are hydrophobicized microfine particles obtained by subjecting the surface of the microfine particles to hydrophobic treatment with organoalkoxysilane, organochlorosilane, organosilazane and other organosilicon compounds.
The microfine particles have a size sufficient for coating the surface of the cured silicone powder. A preferred particle size should be less than 1/10 of the average particle size of the cured silicone powder. Moreover, the specific surface area of the microfine particles should be greater than 10 m2/g.
A preferred cured silicone powder coated with microfine inorganic particles is a spherical silicone elastomer powder coated with silica, commercially available from Dow Corning under the tradename DC9701.
The cured silicone powder coated with microfine particles is present in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 90% by weight; such as from about 0.2 to about 60% by weight; such as from about 0.5 to about 40% by weight; such as from about 1 to about 20% by weight; such as from about 1 to about 10% by weight; such as from about 1 to about 5% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.
Additives/Auxiliaries
The composition of the invention may also comprise any additive or auxiliary typically used in the field of cosmetic formulation. Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, dispersants such as poly(2-hydroxystearic acid), antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, humectants, fragrances, waxes, liposoluble polymers that are dispersible in the medium, fillers, neutralizing agents, cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, colorants and mixtures thereof.
The composition of the invention may also contain, as an additive, an aqueous phase containing water that is optionally thickened or gelled with a thickener or gelling agent. The water may be present in an amount of from about 0.5 to about 50% by weight; such as from about 0.5 to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It should be noted, however, that anhydrous compositions are preferred. Particularly preferred are anhydrous compositions in the form of sticks or compacts. By “anhydrous composition”, it is meant that the composition contains less than 0.5% added water.
Suitable waxes are those generally used in cosmetics and dermatology. They include, for example, waxes of natural origin, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites and hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, as well as waxes of synthetic origin, for instance polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides that are solid at 40° C. and above, silicone waxes such as alkyl- and alkoxy-poly(di)methylsiloxanes and/or poly(di)methylsiloxane esters that are solid at 40° C. and above. Preferred waxes that may be used in the composition of the invention include polyethylene and silicone waxes, preferably having a number average molecular weight of approximately 400-1500, but higher and lower molecular weights can be used.
Additional ingredients which may be used in the composition include crystalline silicone compounds. A crystalline silicone compound is a compound comprising silicone in its molecule, which is solid at room temperature, and has a crystalline character. Particularly useful crystalline silicone compounds belong to a class of alkyl siloxane waxes corresponding to the formulae below:
[(CH3)3SiO]2(CH3)SiR
(CH3)3SiO[(CH3)2SiO](RCH3SiO)ySi(CH3)3, which could also be written as R3SiO[(CH3)2SiO]x(RCH3SiO)ySiR3,
where R is an alkyl chain, x may be 0-200 and y may be 0-200. The substituent R denotes an alkyl chain that may be as low as 1 or as high as 50 or more carbons as long as this silicone compound crystallizes at room temperature. Examples of crystalline silicone compounds include, but are not limited to, C20-C24 Alkyl Methicone, C24-C28 Alkyl Methicone, C20-C24 Alkyl Dimethicone, C24-C28 Alkyl Dimethicone commercially available from Archimica Fine Chemicals, Gainesville, Fla. under the designation of SilCare 41M40, SilCare 41M50, SilCare 41M70 and SilCare 41M80, C30-C45 Alkyl Methicone available from Dow Corning as AMS-C30 Wax, as well as from General Electric as SF1642, or SF-1632. Other examples of crystalline silicone compounds include, but are not limited to, Stearyl Dimethicone available as SilCare 41M65 from Archimica or as DC-2503 from Dow-Corning, Midland, Mich., Stearoxytrimethylsilane sold as SilCare 1M71 or DC-580. Yet other examples of crystalline silicone compounds include, but are not limited to those available from Degussa Care Specialties, Hopewell, Va. under the designation ABIL Wax 9810, 9800, or 2440, or from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Burghausen, Germany, under the designation BelSil SDM 5055, or from OSi Specialties, Greenwich, Conn. under the designation Silsoft.
Film-Forming Polymers
The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one film-forming polymer. Examples of suitable film-forming polymers include, but are not limited to, (meth)acrylates and their derivatives; vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers and especially copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of a C2-C40 and in particular C3-C20 alkene and their derivatives; acrylic-silicone grafted polymers and their derivatives; fluoro polymers and their derivatives; block copolymers containing ethylenic monomers, particularly styrene and their derivatives; cellulose and their derivatives; silicone resins and their derivatives, preferably those chosen from trimethylsiloxysilicates and polyalkyl(aryl)silsesquioxanes; polyurethanes and their derivatives; polyesters and their derivatives; polyacrylamides and their derivatives; water-soluble resins and their derivatives, sugars and their derivatives; alginates; chitosan; gum arabic; and mixtures thereof.
The film-forming polymers may be present in the composition in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 25% by weight; such as from about 1 to about 20% by weight; such as from about 1 to about 10% by weight, all weights based on the total weight of the composition.
Coloring Agents
The composition of the invention may further comprise at least one coloring agent (colorant). The coloring agent may be chosen from the lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacreous pigments (i.e., nacres) typically used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof. Suitable lipophilic dyes include, but are not limited to, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto and their mixtures. Suitable hydrophilic dyes include, but are not limited to, beetroot juice or methylene blue.
The pigments may be white or colored, goniochromatic or not, mineral and/or organic, and coated or uncoated. Suitable mineral pigments for use in the composition of the invention include, but are not limited to, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide, which are optionally surface-treated, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Suitable organic pigments include, but are not limited to, carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.
The nacreous pigments may be chosen from white or colored nacreous pigments. Suitable nacreous pigments include, but are not limited to mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment.
Other suitable pigments may include interference pigments or those pigments having goniochromatic or flop effects.
In one embodiment, the coloring agent is a pigment (nacreous or not).
The coloring agents can be present in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 50% by weight; such as of from about 0.5 to about 40% by weight, more preferably of from about 2 to about 30% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.
Sunscreens
The composition according to the invention may comprise a sunscreen capable of screening out UV radiation. The sunscreen may consist of one or more organic screening agents and/or one or more mineral (nano)pigments.
Suitable organic sunscreens include, but are not limited to, anthranilates, cinnamic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives, imidazolines, bis-benzazolyl derivatives, p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives, methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives, screening polymers and screening silicones, dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene, 4,4-diarylbutadienes, and mixtures thereof.
Suitable mineral sunscreens include, but are not limited to, pigments or even nanopigments (mean size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm and preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) of uncoated or coated metal oxides. Suitable nanopigments effective as UV photoprotective agents include, but are not limited to, oxide of titanium (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anatase form), iron, zinc, zirconium, cerium and their mixtures. Suitable coating agents include, but are not limited to alumina and aluminum stearate.
The sunscreen may be present in the composition in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 30% by weight; such as from about 0.5 to about 20% by weight; such as from about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may be manufactured by adapting known processes that are generally used in cosmetics or dermatology. It may be manufactured by a process which comprises mixing the necessary ingredients, optionally divided into phases. The mixture obtained can then be cast in a suitable mold such as a lipstick mold or directly into the packaging articles (case or dish in particular). Such processes are well within the ordinary skill of the artisan in view of this disclosure.
The composition according to the invention may, for example, be such that the composition is advantageously self-supporting and can disintegrate easily to form a satisfactory deposit on the keratinous substrates.
It should be noted that a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
The composition according to the invention can be in any form including the form of a tinted or non tinted dermatological composition or a care composition for keratinous substrates, in the form of an antisun composition or body hygiene composition in particular in the form of a stick. It can be used in particular as a care base for the skin, hair, or the lips such as lip balms or care creams for the skin, the nails or the hair. It can be in the form of an emulsion, such as for example, a water in oil (W/O) emulsion, or an oil in water (O/W) emulsion, or a multiple emulsion, such as for example, W/O/W or O/W/O. The composition may also be in the form of a gel.
The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a colored make-up product for the skin, in particular a foundation, optionally having care or treating properties, a blusher, an eye shadow, a concealer product, an eyeliner, a make-up product for the body; a make-up product for the lips, optionally having care or treating properties; a make-up product for the nails or the eyelashes, in particular in the form of a mascara, or for the eyebrows and the hair, in particular in the form of a pencil.
This compact foundation exhibited heat stability and provided a unique texture and a cushiony skin feel.
This compact foundation exhibited heat stability and provided a unique texture and a cushiony skin feel.
This comparative example lacked the cushiony, soft, smooth powdery feel.
The lip gloss in comparative Example 4 was grainy and lacked a cushiony texture.
The lip gloss in Example 5 was smooth and had a cushiony feel when applied onto the lips.
Product from inventive Example 7 was thicker, had more deposit, slip and cushiony texture and was less tacky than the comparative composition of Example 6.
Inventive example 9 had a better texture, and cushiony feel than comparative example 8.
This application is a non-provisional application of, and claims benefit to, U.S. Provisional Application No. 60/742,400, filed Dec. 05, 2005, which is incorporated by reference in its entirety for all purposes.
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60742400 | Dec 2005 | US |
