Patent Grant
7314612
The present invention relates to a care and/or treatment and/or make-up composition for the skin, including the scalp, and/or for the lips of human beings, and/or for keratinous materials, such as keratinous fibers, containing a liquid fatty phase, structured with a specific polymer containing a hetero atom. This composition can be stable over time and may be in the form of a tube or stick of make-up such as lipstick, the application of which can produce a glossy deposit with good staying power or long-wearing properties.
It is common to find a structured, i.e., gelled and/or rigidified, liquid fatty phase in cosmetic or dermatological products; this is especially the case in solid compositions such as deodorants, lip balms, lipsticks, concealer products, eyeshadows and cast foundations. This structuring may be obtained with the aid of waxes and/or fillers. Unfortunately, these waxes and fillers may have a tendency to make the composition matte, which may not always be desirable, in particular for a lipstick or an eyeshadow. Consumers are always on the lookout for a lipstick in stick form which can deposit a film with good staying power or long wearing properties but which is also increasingly glossy.
For the purposes of the invention, the expression “liquid fatty phase” means a fatty phase which is liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 KPa), composed of one or more fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature, also referred to as oils, that are generally mutually compatible, i.e. forming a homogeneous phase macroscopically. The expression “liquid fatty substance” means a non-aqueous liquid medium which is immiscible in all proportions with water, for example, a hydrocarbon-based compound comprising one or more carbon chains each containing at least 5 carbon atoms and possibly comprising at least one polar group chosen from carboxylic acid, hydroxyl, polyol, amine, amide, phosphoric acid, phosphate, ester, ether, urea, carbamate, thiol, thioether and thioester, a silicone compound optionally comprising carbon chains at the end or pendant, these chains optionally being substituted with a group chosen from fluoro, perfluoro, (poly)amino acid, ether, hydroxyl, amine, acid and ester groups; or a fluoro or perfluoro compound such as fluorohydrocarbons or perfluorohydrocarbons containing at least 5 carbon atoms, possibly comprising a hetero atom chosen from N, O, S and P and optionally at least one function chosen from ether, ester, amine, acid, carbamate, urea, thiol and hydroxyl groups.
The structuring of the liquid fatty phase may make it possible in particular to limit its exudation (or syneresis) from solid compositions, particularly in hot and humid areas and, furthermore, after deposition on the skin or the lips, to limit the migration of this phase into wrinkles and fine lines, a characteristic particularly desirable in a lipstick or eyeshadow. The reason for this is that considerable migration of the liquid fatty phase, particularly when it is charged with coloring agents, may lead to an unpleasant appearance around the lips and the eyes, making wrinkles and fine lines particularly prominent. Consumers often state this migration as being a major drawback of conventional lipsticks and eyeshadows. The term “migration” means movement of the composition beyond its initial site of application.
Gloss of a lipstick or other cosmetic is generally associated with the nature of the liquid fatty phase. Thus, it may be possible to reduce the amount of waxes and/or fillers in the composition in order to increase the gloss of a lipstick, but in that case the migration of the liquid fatty phase may increase. In other words, the amounts of waxes and of fillers required to prepare a stick of suitable hardness which does not exude at room temperature are a restricting factor on the gloss of the deposit.
To overcome at least one of these drawbacks, the inventors have envisaged replacing all or some of the waxes and/or fillers with polymers for structuring the liquid fatty phase, of the polyamide, polyurea or polyurethane type. Unfortunately, the sticks obtained have a greater or lesser tendency to exude.
Furthermore, make-up compositions should have good staying power or long-wearing properties over time, i.e., little turning of or change in color over time or a gradual or homogeneous change of the deposit over time. The turning of or change in color of the deposit may be due, for lipsticks, to an interaction with saliva and, for foundations and eyeshadows, to an interaction with the sweat and sebum secreted by the skin. Specifically, a composition which has no staying power or long wearing properties may oblige the user to reapply make-up regularly. However, consumers nowadays wish to enhance the beauty of their face or body while spending as little time as possible in doing so.
The need thus remains for a composition which does not have at least one of the above drawbacks, which has good stability over time, even in hot and humid countries, and which produces a deposit on the skin or the lips that shows good staying power or long-wearing over time and has a glossy appearance. Furthermore, this composition can be easy to manufacture and can give the deposit a sensation of not drying out, both during application and over time.
One subject of the invention is a care and/or make-up and/or treatment composition for the skin and/or the lips of the face and/or for superficial body growths, i.e., keratinous materials, such as nails or keratinous fibers, which makes it possible to overcome at least one of the drawbacks mentioned above.
The inventors have found, surprisingly, that the use of at least one specific polymer combined with at least one gelling agent for a liquid fatty phase makes it possible to obtain a stick whose application to the lips produces a deposit which can have noteworthy cosmetic properties. In particular, the deposit can be at least one of glossy, supple, comfortable and “migration-resistant”. Furthermore, the composition can be stable over time and has been observed not to exude at room temperature.
The term “stable” refers to a composition which has been observed not to exude at room temperature (25° C.) for at least 2 months, for example, at least 9 months.
The invention applies not only to make-up products for the lips, such as lipsticks, lip glosses and lip pencils, but also to care and/or treatment products for the skin, including the scalp, and for the lips, such as antisun care products for the human face, the body or the lips, such as in stick form, make-up removing products for the skin of the face and body, make-up products for the skin, both of the human face and body, such as foundations optionally cast in stick or dish form, concealer products, blushers, eyeshadows, face powders, transfer tattoos, body hygiene products (i.e., products which do not relate to the care, make-up, or treatment of keratin materials) such as deodorant, e.g., in stick form, shampoos, conditioners and make-up products for the eyes such as eyeliners, eye pencils and mascaras, e.g., in cake form, as well as make-up and care products for superficial body growths, for instance keratinous fibers such as the hair, the eyelashes, and the eyebrows or nails.
Another aspect of the invention is a structured composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase comprising (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton having hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing at least one hetero atom, and (ii) at least one gelling agent for the liquid fatty phase. As used herein, the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
The composition of the invention can be in the form of a paste, a solid or a more or less viscous cream. It can be a single or multiple emulsion, such as an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion, or a water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, or a rigid or soft gel containing an oily continuous phase. For example, the liquid fatty phase can be the continuous phase of the composition. In one embodiment, the composition is anhydrous. In one embodiment, the composition is in a form cast as a stick or in a dish, for example solid, and further example, in the form of an oily rigid gel, such as an anhydrous gel, e.g., an anhydrous stick. In a further embodiment, the composition is in the form of an opaque or translucent rigid gel (depending on the presence or absence of pigments), and in a specific example, the liquid fatty phase forms the continuous phase. In one embodiment, the composition is chosen from molded and poured sticks.
The structuring of the liquid fatty phase can be modified depending on the nature of the polymer containing a hetero atom and the gelling agent that are used, and may be such that a rigid structure in the form of a stick is obtained. When these sticks are coloured, they make it possible, after application, to obtain a uniformly coloured and glossy deposit which does not migrate and/or which has good staying power, in particular of the colour over time.
The composition of the invention can be a composition for the lips, such as a lipstick composition in stick form.
Structuring Polymer
In one embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer in the composition of the invention is a solid that is not deformable at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 KPa). In a further embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer is capable of structuring the composition without opacifying it. The inventor think that is due to the fact that the polymer does not crystallize. Moreover, the structuration of the liquid fatty phase is due to hydrogen interactions between two molecules of polymer and/or between the polymer and the liquid fatty phase. As defined above, the at least one structuring polymer of the present invention comprises a polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom. In one embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer further comprises at least one terminal fatty chain chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains, such as of at least 4 atoms, and further such as comprising 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to the polymer skeleton via at least one linking group. The terminal fatty chain may, for example, be functionalized. The at least one structuring polymer may also comprise at least one pendant fatty chain chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains, such as of at least 4 atoms, and further such as comprising 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to any carbon or hetero atom of the polymer skeleton via at least one linking group. The pendant fatty chain may, for example, be functionalized. The at least one structuring polymer may comprise both at least one pendant fatty chain and at least one terminal fatty chain as defined above, and one or both types of chains can be functionalized.
In one embodiment, the structuring polymer comprises at least two hydrocarbon-based repeating units. As a further example, the structuring polymer comprises at least three hydrocarbon-based repeating units and as an even further example, the at least three repeating units are identical.
As used herein, “functionalized” means comprising at least one functional group. Non-limiting examples of functional groups include hydroxyl groups, ether groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, including fluoro and perfluoro groups, halogen atoms, ester groups, siloxane groups and polysiloxane groups.
For purposes of the invention, the expression “functionalized chain” means, for example, an alkyl chain comprising at least one functional (reactive) group chosen, for example, from those recited above. For example, in one embodiment, the hydrogen atoms of at least one alkyl chain may be substituted at least partially with fluorine atoms.
According to the invention, these chains may be linked directly to the polymer skeleton or via an ester function or a perfluoro group.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “polymer” means a compound containing at least 2 repeating units, such as, for example, a compound containing at least 3 repeating units, which may be identical.
As used herein, the expression “hydrocarbon-based repeating unit” includes a repeating unit comprising from 2 to 80 carbon atoms, such as, for example, from 2 to 60 carbon atoms. The at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may also comprise oxygen atoms. The hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may be chosen from saturated and unsaturated hydrocarbon-based repeating units which in turn may be chosen from linear hydrocarbon-based repeating units, branched hydrocarbon-based repeating units and cyclic hydrocarbon-based repeating units. The at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may comprise, for example, at least one hetero atom that is part of the polymer skeleton, i.e., not pendant. The at least one hetero atom may be chosen, for example, from nitrogen, sulphur, and phosphorus. For example, the at least one hetero atom may be a nitrogen atom, such as a non-pendant nitrogen atom. In another embodiment, the at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may comprise at least one hetero atom with the proviso that the at least one hetero atom is not nitrogen. In another embodiment, the at least one hetero atom is combined with at least one atom chosen from oxygen and carbon to form a hetero atom group. In one embodiment, the hetero atom group comprises a carbonyl group.
The at least one repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom may be chosen, for example, from amide groups, carbamate groups, and urea groups. In one embodiment, the at least one repeating unit comprises amide groups forming a polyamide skeleton. In another embodiment, the at least one repeating unit comprises carbamate groups and/or urea groups forming a polyurethane skeleton, a polyurea skeleton and/or a polyurethane-polyurea skeleton. The pendant chains, for example, can be linked directly to at least one of the hetero atoms of the polymer skeleton. In yet another embodiment, the at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may comprise at least one hetero atom group with the proviso that the at least one hetero atom group is not an amide group. In one embodiment, the polymer skeleton comprises at least one repeating unit chosen from silicone units and oxyalkylene units, the at least one repeating unit being between the hydrocarbon-based repeating units.
In one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one structuring polymer with nitrogen atoms, such as amide, urea, or carbamate units, and at least one polar oil.
In one embodiment, in the at least one structuring polymer, the percentage of the total number of fatty chains ranges from 40% to 98% relative to the total number of repeating units and fatty chains, and as a further example, from 50% to 95%. In a further embodiment wherein the polymer skeleton is a polyamide skeleton, in the at least one structuring polymer, the percentage of the total number of fatty chains ranges from 40% to 98% relative to the total number of all amide units and fatty chains, and as a further example, from 50% to 95%.
In a further embodiment, the nature and proportion of the at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom depends on the nature of a liquid fatty phase of the composition and is, for example, similar to the nature of the fatty phase. For example, not to be limited as to theory, the more polar the hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing a hetero atom, and in high proportion, which corresponds to the presence of several hetero atoms, the greater the affinity of the at least one structuring polymer to polar oils. Conversely, the more non-polar, or even apolar, and lesser in proportion the hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing a hetero atom, the greater the affinity of the polymer for apolar oils.
In another embodiment, the invention is drawn to a structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer, wherein the at least one structuring polymer is a polyamide comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one amide repeating unit and optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and/or at least one terminal chain that are optionally functionalized and comprise from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to at least one of the amide repeating units via at least one linking group. The liquid fatty phase further contains at least one gelling agent for gelling the liquid fatty phase. The at least one liquid fatty phase, the at least one structuring polyamide and the at least one gelling agent together form a physiologically acceptable medium.
When the structuring polymer has amide repeating units, the pendant fatty chains may be linked to at least one of the nitrogen atoms in the amide repeating units.
The structuring polymer, for example the polyamide polymer, may have a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100,000, such as less than 50,000. In another embodiment, the weight-average molecular mass may range from 1000 to 30,000, such as from 2000 to 20,000, further such as from 2000 to 10,000.
However, this weight-average molecular mass can represent up to 500 000 and even up to 1 000 000. The structuring polymer, as for example the polyamide polymer, is non soluble in water or in aqueous phase. In another embodiment, the structuring polymer has no ionic group.
As discussed, the at least one structuring polymer may, for example, be chosen from polyamide polymers. A polyamide polymer may comprise, for example, a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one amide repeating unit, i.e., a polyamide skeleton. In one embodiment, the polyamide skeleton may further comprise at least one terminal fatty chain chosen from alkyl chains, for example, alkyl chains comprising at least four carbon atoms, and alkenyl chains, for example, alkenyl chains comprising at least four carbon atoms, bonded to the at least one polyamide skeleton via at least one linking group, and/or at least one pendant fatty chain chosen from alkyl chains, for example, alkyl chains comprising at least four carbon atoms, and alkenyl chains, for example, alkenyl chains comprising at least four carbon atoms, bonded to the at least one polyamide skeleton via at least one linking group. In one embodiment, the polyamide skeleton may comprise at least one terminal fatty chain chosen from fatty chains comprising 8 to 120 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 12 to 68 carbon atoms, bonded to the at least one polyamide skeleton via at least one linking group and/or at least one pendant fatty chain chosen chosen from fatty chains comprising 8 to 120 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 12 to 68 carbon atoms, bonded to the at least one polyamide skeleton via at least one linking group, such as bonded to any carbon or nitrogen of the polyamide skeleton via the at least one linking group. In one embodiment, the at least one linking group is chosen from single bonds and urea, urethane, thiourea, thiourethane, thioether, thioester, ester, ether and amine groups. The bond is, for example, an ester bond. In one embodiment, these polymers comprise a fatty chain at each end of the polymer skeleton, such as the polyamide skeleton.
In one embodiment, due to the presence of at least one chain, the polyamide polymers may be readily soluble in oils (i.e., water-immiscible liquid compounds) and thus may give macroscopically homogeneous compositions even with a high content (at least 25%) of the polyamide polymers, unlike certain polymers of the prior art that do not contain such alkyl or alkenyl chains at the end of the polyamide skeleton. As defined herein, a composition is soluble if it has a solubility of greater than 0.01 g per 100 ml of solution at 25° C.
In a further embodiment, the polyamide polymers can be chosen from polymers resulting from at least one polycondensation reaction between at least one acid chosen from dicarboxylic acids comprising at least 32 carbon atoms, such as 32 to 44 carbon atoms, and at least one amine chosen from diamines comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 36 carbon atoms, and triamines comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 36 carbon atoms. The at least one dicarboxylic acids can, for example, be chosen from dimers of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 16 carbon atoms, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid. The at least one amine can, for example, be chosen from diamines, such as ethylenediamine, hexylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, and phenylenediamine and from triamines, such as ethylenetriamine.
The polyamide polymers may also be chosen from polymers comprising at least one terminal carboxylic acid group. The at least one terminal carboxylic acid group can, for example, be esterified with at least one alcohol chosen from monoalcohols comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. For example, the at least one alcohol can be chosen from monoalcohols comprising from 10 to 36 carbon atoms. In a further embodiment, the monoalcohols can comprise from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and for example 18 carbon atoms.
In one embodiment, the at least one polyamide polymer may be chosen from those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,783,657, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference, which are polyamide polymers of formula (I):
in which:
In the polymer of formula (I), the terminal fatty chains that are optionally functionalized for the purposes of the invention are terminal chains linked to the last hetero atom, in this case nitrogen, of the polyamide skeleton.
In one embodiment, the ester groups of formula (I), which form part of the terminal and/or pendant fatty chains for the purposes of the invention, are present in an amount ranging from 15% to 40% of the total number of ester and amide groups (i.e., heteroatom groups), such as from 20% to 35%.
In formula (I), in one embodiment, n may be an integer ranging from 1 to 10, for example from 1 to 5, and as further example an integer ranging from 3 to 5. In the present invention, R1, which are identical or different, can, for example, each be chosen from C12 to C22 alkyl groups, such as from C16 to C22 alkyl groups.
In the present invention, R2, which are identical or different, can, for example, each be chosen from C10 to C42 hydrocarbon-based, e.g., alkylene groups. At least 50% of all R2, for example at least 75% of all R2, which are identical or different, can, for example, each be chosen from groups comprising from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. In the two aforementioned embodiments, the remaining R2, which are identical or different, can, for example, each be chosen from C4 to C18 groups, such as C4 to C12 groups.
R3, which can be identical or different, can, for example, each be chosen from C2 to C36 hydrocarbon-based groups and polyoxyalkylene groups. In another example, R3, which can be identical or different, can each, for example, be chosen from C2 to C12 hydrocarbon-based groups. In another embodiment, R4, which can be identical or different, can each be chosen from hydrogen atoms.
As used herein, hydrocarbon-based groups may be chosen from linear, cyclic and branched, and saturated and unsaturated groups. The hydrocarbon-based groups can be chosen from aliphatic and aromatic groups. In one example, the hydrocarbon-based groups are chosen from aliphatic groups. The alkyl and alkylene groups may be chosen from linear, cyclic and branched, and saturated and unsaturated groups.
In general, the pendant and terminal fatty chains may be chosen from linear, cyclic and branched, and saturated and unsaturated groups. The pendant and terminal fatty chains can be chosen from aliphatic and aromatic groups. In one example, the pendant and terminal fatty chains are chosen from aliphatic groups.
According to the invention, the structuring of the liquid fatty phase is obtained with the aid of at least one structuring polymer, such as the at least one polymer of formula (I). The at least one polyamide polymer of formula (I) may, for example, be in the form of a mixture of polymers, and this mixture may also comprise a compound of formula (I) wherein n is equal to zero, i.e., a diester.
Non-limiting examples of an at least one polyamide polymer which may be used in the composition according to the present invention include the commercial products sold by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100. These are sold or made, respectively, in the form of an 80% (in terms of active material) gel in a mineral oil and a 100% (in terms of active material) gel. These polymers have a softening point ranging from 88° C. to 94° C., and may be mixtures of copolymers derived from monomers of (i) C36 diacids and (ii) ethylenediamine, and have a weight-average molecular mass of about 6000. Terminal ester groups result from esterification of the remaining acid end groups with at least one alcohol chosen from cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. A mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols is sometimes called cetylstearyl alcohol.
Other non-limiting examples of an at least one polyamide polymer which may be used in the compositions according to the present invention include polyamide polymers (or polyamide resins) resulting from the condensation of at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and at least one diamine, the carbonyl and amine groups being condensed via an amide bond. In one embodiment, these polymers contain more than two carbonyl groups and more than two amine groups. Examples of these polyamide polymers are those sold or made under the brand name Versamid by the companies General Mills Inc. and Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, 744 or 1655) or by the company Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp. under the brand name Onamid, in particular Onamid S or C. These resins have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 6000 to 9000. For further information regarding these polyamides, reference may be made to U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,645,705 and 3,148,125, the disclosures of which are hereby incorporated by reference. In one embodiment, Versamid 930 or 744 may be used.
Other examples of polyamides include those sold or made by the company Arizona Chemical under the references Uni-Rez (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623 and 2662) and the product sold or made under the reference Macromelt 6212 by the company Henkel. For further information regarding these polyamides, reference may be made to U.S. Pat. No. 5,500,209, the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference. Such polyamides display high melt viscosity characteristics. MACROMELT 6212, for example, has a high melt viscosity at 190° C. of 30-40 poise (as measured by a Brookfield Viscometer, Model RVF #3 spindle, 20 RPM).
In a further embodiment, the at least one polyamide polymer may be chosen from polyamide resins from vegetable sources. Polyamide resins from vegetable sources may be chosen from, for example, the polyamide resins of U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,783,657 and 5,998,570, the disclosures of which are herein incorporated by reference.
The at least one structuring polymer in the compositions of the invention may have a softening point greater than 50° C., such as from 65° C. to 190° C., and for example less than 150° C., and further such as from 70° C. to 130° C., and even further such as from 80° C. to 105° C. This softening point may be lower than that of structuring polymers used in the art which may facilitate the use of the at least one structuring polymer of the present invention and may limit the degradation of the liquid fatty phase. These polymers may be non waxy polymers.
The softening point can be measured by a well known method as “Differential Scanning Calorimetry” (i.e. DSC method) with a temperature rise of 5 to 10° C./min.
In one embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer in the composition according to the invention corresponds to the polyamide polymers of formula (I). Due to fatty chain(s), these polymers may be readily soluble in oils and thus lead to compositions that are macroscopically homogeneous even with a high content (at least 25%) of at least one structuring polymer, unlike polymers not containing a fatty chain.
The at least one structuring polymer may be present in the composition in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.5% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as for example 2% to 60%, and further, for example, from 5 to 40%. In a further embodiment the at least one structuring polymer may be present in the composition in an amount ranging, for example, from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, when the at least one structuring polymer of the present invention comprises a urea urethane having the following formula:
R—O—CO—NH—R′—NH—CO—NH—R″—NH—CO—NH—R′—NH—CO—OR
then R represents CnH2n+1, wherein n represents an integer having a value greater than 22, for example from 23 to 120, and further, for example from 23 to 68, or CmH2m+1 (OCpH2p)r—, wherein m represents an integer having a value of greater than 18, for example from 19 to 120, and further, for example, from 23 to 68, p represents an integer having a value of from 2 to 4, and r represents an integer having a value of from 1 to 10,
R′ represents:
and R″ represents:
In one embodiment of the invention, the at least one structuring polymer is not modified urea-urethane of the type available as BYK 410. In another embodiment of the invention, the at least one gelling agent is not modified urea-urethane of the type available as BYK 410.
In another embodiment of the invention, the present invention is drawn to a structured composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom, wherein the at least one structuring polymer further comprises at least one terminal fatty chain, optionally functionalized, chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains, such as alkyl and alkenyl chains having at least four carbon atoms, and further such as alkyl and alkenyl chains comprising from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to the polymer skeleton via at least one linking group chosen from amides, ureas, and esters, wherein when the at least one linking group is chosen from esters, the at least one terminal fatty chain is chosen from branched alkyl groups. The at least one structuring polymer may also comprise at least one pendant fatty chain, optionally functionalized, chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains, such as alkyl and alkenyl chains having at least four carbon atoms, and further such as alkyl and alkenyl chains comprising from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to any carbon or hetero atom of the polymer skeleton via at least one linking group chosen from amides, ureas, and esters, wherein when the at least one linking group is chosen from esters, the at least one terminal fatty chain is chosen from branched alkyl groups. The at least one structuring polymer may comprise both at least one pendant fatty chain and at least one terminal fatty chain as defined above in this paragraph.
Further, an embodiment of the invention relates to a skin, lip, or keratinous fiber care, treatment, or make-up composition comprising a structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom and at least one gelling agent for gelling the liquid fatty phase.
Additionally, an embodiment of the invention relates to a skin, lip, or keratinous fiber care or make-up composition comprising a structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom, at least one gelling agent for gelling the liquid fatty phase, and at least one coloring agent.
Additionally, an embodiment of the invention relates to a care and/or treatment and/or make-up composition for keratin materials comprising a composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom; and (ii) at least one gelling agent, wherein said at least one gelling agent is not stearalkonium hectorite.
Another embodiment of the invention relates to a mascara, an eyeliner, a foundation, a lipstick, a blusher, a make-up-removing product, a make-up product for the body, an eyeshadow, a face powder, a concealer product, a shampoo, a conditioner, an antisun product or a care product for the lips, skin, or hair comprising a composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase in the mascara, eyeliner, foundation, lipstick, blusher, make-up-removing product, make-up product for the body, eyeshadow, face powder, concealer product, shampoo, conditioner, antisun product or care product for the skin, lips, or hair which comprises:
(i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom; and
(ii) at least one gelling agent.
Another embodiment of the invention relates to a deodorant product or a care product for the skin or body comprising an anhydrous composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase in the product which comprises:
(i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom; and
(ii) at least one gelling agent.
Another embodiment of the invention relates to a lip composition comprising an anhydrous composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase in the product which comprises:
(i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom; and
(ii) at least one gelling agent.
Another embodiment of the invention relates to a lipstick composition in stick form comprising at least one continuous liquid fatty phase, at least one gelling agent for the fatty phase and at least one non-waxy structuring polymer having a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100 000, the continuous liquid fatty phase, the at least one gelling agent for the fatty phase and the at least one non-waxy structuring polymer being present in the lipstick composition.
Another embodiment of the invention relates to a method for care, make-up or treatment of keratin materials comprising applying to the keratin materials an anhydrous composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:
(i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom; and
(ii) at least one gelling agent wherein said at least one gelling agent is not stearalkonium hectorite.
Another embodiment of the invention relates to a method for care, make-up or treatment of keratinous fibers, lips, or skin comprising applying to the keratinous fibers, lips, or skin a composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:
(i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom; and
(ii) at least one gelling agent.
Another embodiment of the invention relates to a method for providing an anhydrous composition having at least one property chosen from non-exudation, gloss, and comfortable deposit on keratin materials chosen from lips, skin, and keratinous fibers, comprising including in the composition at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:
(i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom; and
(ii) at least one gelling agent.
Another embodiment of the invention relates to a an anhydrous composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:
(i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom; and
(ii) at least one gelling agent, wherein the at least one structuring polymer or the at least one gelling agent is not a compound of formula (II)
R—O—CO—NH—R′—NH—CO—NH—R″—NH—CO—NH—R′—NH—CO—OR (II)
wherein R represents CnH2n+1— or CmH2m+1 (CpH2pO)r—; n represents an integer having a value of from 4 to 22; m represents an integer having a value of from 1 to 18; p represents an integer having a value of from 2 to 4; and r represents an integer having a value of from 1 to 10;
R′ represents:
and R″ represents:
Another embodiment of the invention relates to a method of making up or caring for skin, lips keratinous fibers comprising applying to the skin, lips, or keratinous fibers a structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom and at least one gelling agent for gelling the liquid fatty phase.
Another embodiment of the invention relates to an anhydrous composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:
(i) at least one structuring polymer comprising:
a polymer skeleton which comprises at least three hydrocarbon-based repeating units comprising at least one hetero atom; and
(ii) at least one gelling agent, and for example, the at least three hydrocarbon-based repeating units can be identical.
Another embodiment of the invention relates to a composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:
(i) at least one structuring polymer chosen from urea urethanes having the following formula:
R—O—CO—NH—R′—NH—CO—NH—R″—NH—CO—NH—R′—NH—CO—OR
wherein R represents CnH2n+1—, wherein n represents an integer having a value greater than 22 or CmH2m+1 (OCpH2p)r—, wherein m represents an integer having a value of greater than 18, p represents an integer having a value of from 2 to 4, and r represents an integer having a value of from 1 to 10,
R′ represents:
and R″ represents:
(ii) at least one gelling agent.
Another embodiment of the invention relates to a composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:
(i) at least one structuring polymer comprising
a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one hetero atom with the proviso that the at least one hetero atom is not nitrogen; and
(ii) at least one gelling agent.
In another embodiment, the structuring polymer has the formula (II).
Depending on the intended application, such as a stick, hardness of the composition may also be considered. The hardness of a composition may, for example, be expressed in gramforce (gf). The composition of the present invention may, for example, have a hardness ranging from 20 gf to 2000 gf, such as from 20 gf to 900 gf, and further such as from 20 gf to 600 gf.
This hardness is measured in one of two ways. A first test for hardness is according to a method of penetrating a probe into the composition and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2 i. from Rheo) equipped with an ebonite cylinder of height 25 mm and diameter 8 mm. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20° C. at the center of 5 samples of the composition. The cylinder is introduced into each sample of composition at a pre-speed of 2 mm/s and then at a speed of 0.5 mm/s and finally at a post-speed of 2 mm/s, the total displacement being 1 mm. The recorded hardness value is that of the maximum peak observed. The measurement error is ±50 gf.
The second test for hardness is the “cheese wire” method, which involves cutting an 8.1 mm or preferably 12.7 mm in diameter stick composition and measuring its hardness at 20° C. using a DFGHS 2 tensile testing machine from Indelco-Chatillon Co. at a speed of 100 mm/minute. The hardness value from this method is expressed in grams as the shear force required to cut a stick under the above conditions. According to this method, the hardness of compositions according to the present invention which may be in stick form may, for example, range from 30 gf to 300 gf, such as from 30 gf to 250 gf, and further such as from 30 gf to 200 gf.
The hardness of the composition of the present invention may be such that the compositions are self-supporting and can easily disintegrate to form a satisfactory deposit on a keratinous material. In addition, this hardness may impart good impact strength to the inventive compositions which may be molded or cast, for example, in stick or dish form.
The skilled artisan may choose to evaluate a composition using at least one of the tests for hardness outlined above based on the application envisaged and the hardness desired. If one obtains an acceptable hardness value, in view of the intended application, from at least one of these hardness tests, the composition falls within the scope of the invention.
As is evident, the hardness of the composition according to the invention may, for example, be such that the composition is advantageously self-supporting and can disintegrate easily to form a satisfactory deposit on the skin and/or the lips and/or superficial body growths, such as keratinous fibres. In addition, with this hardness, the composition of the invention may have good impact strength.
According to the invention, the composition in stick form may have the behavior of a deformable, flexible elastic solid, giving noteworthy elastic softness on application. The compositions in stick form of the prior art do not have these properties of elasticity and flexibility.
Amphiphilic Compound
The polymer can be combined with at least one amphiphilic compound that is liquid and non-volatile at room temperature, having a hydrophilic/lipophilic balance (HLB) of less than 12, such as from 1 to 8 and further such as from 1 to 5. According to the invention, one or more amphiphilic compounds may be used. The aim of these amphiphilic compounds is to reinforce the structuring properties of the polymer containing a hetero atom, to facilitate the use of the polymer and to improve the ability of the stick or tube to be deposited. However, it is possible to obtain a stick with good mechanical and/or thermal properties without including at least one amphiphilic compound.
The at least one amphiphilic compound which can be used in the composition of the invention may, for example, comprise a lipophilic part linked to a polar part, the lipophilic part comprising a carbon-based chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms, for example from 18 to 32 carbon atoms or from 18 to 28 carbon atoms. The polar part of the at least one amphiphilic compound may, in one embodiment, be the residue of a compound chosen from alcohols and polyols containing from 1 to 12 hydroxyl groups, and polyoxyalkylenes comprising at least 2 oxyalkylene units and containing from 0 to 20 oxypropylene units and/or from 0 to 20 oxyethylene units. For example, the at least one amphiphilic compound may be an ester chosen from the hydroxystearates, oleates and isostearates of glycerol, of sorbitan and of methylglucose, and from branched C12 to C26 fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol. Among these esters, monoesters and mixtures of mono- and diesters can also be used.
The respective contents of lipophilic gelling agent and of polymer containing a hetero atom and optionally that of the amphiphilic compound are chosen according to the desired hardness of the composition and as a function of the specific application envisaged.
The respective amounts of polymer, of gelling agent and optionally of amphiphilic compound should be such that they produce a stick which can be worn down. In practice, the amount of polymer represents, for example, from 0.5% to 80% of the total weight of the composition, such as from 2 to 60% and further such as from 5% to 40%. The amount of amphiphilic compound in practice represents, for example, from 0.1% to 35% of the total weight of the composition, for example from 1% to 20% and as a further example, from 1% to 15%, if it is present.
The at least one gelling agent and/or the at least one structuring polymer have an affinity with the fatty phase and in particular with a chemical portion of one of the oils forming the liquid fatty phase of the composition so that physical links with the oils, such as hydrogen bonds, are formed.
In one embodiment, the gelling agent is not chosen from any of silica, methyl 12-hydroxystearate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, and stearalkonium hectorite.
Liquid Fatty Phase
The at least one liquid, in one embodiment, may comprise at least one oil. In one embodiment, at least one oil has an affinity with the structuring polymer and/or with the gelling agent. The at least one oil, for example, may be chosen from polar oils and apolar olis including hydrocarbon-based liquid oils and oily liquids at room temperature. In one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one structuring polymer and at least one polar oil. The polar oils of the invention, for example, may be added to the apolar oils, the apolar oils acting in particular as co-solvent for the polar oils.
According to the invention, the structuring of the at least one liquid fatty phase may be obtained with the aid of at least one polymer of formula (I). In general, the polymers of formula (I) may be in the form of mixtures of polymers, these mixtures also possibly containing a synthetic product corresponding to a compound of formula (I) in which n is 0, i.e., a diester.
The liquid fatty phase of the composition may contain more than 30%, for example, more than 40%, of liquid oil(s) containing a group similar to that of the units containing a hetero atom of the structuring polymer, and for example from 50% to 100%. In one embodiment, the liquid fatty phase structured with a polyamide-type skeleton contains a high quantity, i.e., greater than 30%, for example greater than 40% relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase, or from 50% to 100%, of at least one apolar, such as hydrocarbon-based, oil. For the purposes of the invention, the expression “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil essentially comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, optionally with at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, ester, carboxyl and ether groups. With such a fatty phase, the at least one gelling agent may, for example, contain an amine, amide or urethane group.
For a liquid fatty phase structured with a polymer containing a partially silicone-based skeleton, this fatty phase may contain more than 30%, for example, more than 40%, relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase and, for example, from 50% to 100%, of at least one silicone-based liquid oil, relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase. In this embodiment, the at least one gelling agent may comprise a silicone group.
For a liquid fatty phase structured with an apolar polymer of the hydrocarbon-based type, this fatty phase may contain more than 30%, for example more than 40% by weight, or from 50% to 100% by weight, of at least one liquid apolar, such as hydrocarbon-based, oil, relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase. In this embodiment, the at least one gelling agent may contain hydrocarbon groups chosen from linear, branched and cyclic hydrocarbon-based groups, such as C1 to C40 groups.
For example, the at least one polar oil useful in the invention may be chosen from:
The at least one apolar oil according to the invention is chosen from, for example, silicone oils chosen from volatile and non-volatile, linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) that are liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; hydrocarbons chosen from linear and branched, volatile and non-volatile hydrocarbons of synthetic and mineral origin, such as volatile liquid paraffins (such as isoparaffins and isododecane) or non-volatile liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, liquid petrolatum, liquid lanolin, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and squalane; and mixtures thereof. The structured oils, for example those structured with polyamides such as those of formula (I) or the polyurethanes or polyureas or polyurea-urethanes, may be, in one embodiment, apolar oils, such as an oil or a mixture of hydrocarbon oils chosen from those of mineral and synthetic origin, chosen from hydrocarbons such as alkanes such as Parleam® oil, isoparaffins including isododecane, and squalane, and mixtures thereof.
The structured oils, for example those structured with polyamides such as those of formula (I) or the polyurethanes or polyureas or polyurea-urethanes, may be, in one embodiment, apolar oils, such as an oil or a mixture of hydrocarbon oils chosen from those of mineral and synthetic origin, chosen from hydrocarbons such as alkanes such as hydrogenated polybutene, e.g., Parleam® oil from Nippon Oil Fats, isoparaffins including isododecane, and squalane, and mixtures thereof. These oils may, in one embodiment, be combined with at least one phenylsilicone oil.
The liquid fatty phase, in one embodiment, contains at least one non-volatile oil chosen from, for example, hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral, plant and synthetic origin, synthetic esters or ethers, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
In practice, the total liquid fatty phase can be, for example, present in an amount ranging from 1% to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 5% to 99%, 5% to 95.5%, from 10% to 80% or from 20% to 75%.
For the purposes of the invention, the expression “volatile solvent or oil” means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent(s) of the invention is(are) organic solvents, such as volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 10−2 to 300 mmHg (1.33 to 40 000 Pa) and, for example, greater than 0.03 mmHg (4 Pa) and further example greater than 0.3 mmHg (40 Pa). The expression “non-volatile oil” means an oil which remains on the skin or the lips at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, such as those having a vapor pressure of less than 10−2 mmHg (1.33 Pa).
According to the invention, these volatile solvents may facilitate the staying power or long wearing properties of the composition on the skin, the lips or superficial body growths such as nails and keratinous fibers. The solvents can be chosen from hydrocarbon-based solvents, silicone solvents optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, and a mixture of these solvents.
The volatile oil(s), in one embodiment, can be present in an amount ranging from 0% to 95.5% relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 2% to 75% or, for example, from 10% to 45%. This amount will be adapted by a person skilled in the art according to the desired staying power or long wearing properties.
The at least one liquid fatty phase of the composition of the invention may further comprises a dispersion of lipid vesicles. The composition of the invention may also, for example, be in the form of a fluid anhydrous gel, a rigid anhydrous gel, a fluid simple emulsion, a fluid multiple emulsion, a rigid simple emulsion or a rigid multiple emulsion. The simple emulsion or multiple emulsion may comprise a continuous phase chosen from an aqueous phase optionally containing dispersed lipid vesicles, or a fatty phase optionally containing dispersed lipid vesicles. In one embodiment, the composition has a continuous oily phase or fatty phase and is more specifically an anhydrous composition in, for example, a stick or dish form. An anhydrous composition is one that has less than 10% water by weight, such as, for example, less than 5% by weight.
Gelling Agent
The composition of the invention also contains at least one lipophilic agent for gelling a liquid fatty phase. This at least one gelling agent is chosen from liposoluble and lipodispersible rheological agents, such as agents that are soluble or dispersible in the fatty phase that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The at least one gelling agent may be chosen from gelling agents in polymeric form and gelling agents in mineral form. In one embodiment, the at least one gelling agent may be in mineral form with particle sizes that cause little or no light scattering. Thus, it may be possible to obtain a translucent or even transparent composition.
In one embodiment, the at least one gelling agent is not soluble in an aqueous phase or in water.
Fatty-phase gelling agents or rheological agents which can be used in the invention may be chosen from lipodispersible mineral particles such as optionally modified clays and optionally modified silica, for example which have been hydrophobic-treated, as well as polymeric gelling agents such as partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes of three-dimensional structure; galactomannans comprising from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, for example 2 to 4 hydroxyl groups, per saccharide, substituted with a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain; polymers or copolymers resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of an ethylenic monomer, comprising one or more ethylenic, preferably conjugated bonds (or dienes); silicone gums; ethylcellulose, such as the products sold under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemical; and mixtures thereof.
As modified clays which can be used, mention may be made of hectorites modified with an ammonium chloride of a C10 to C22 fatty acid, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, also known as quatermium-18 bentonite, such as the products sold or made under the names Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, Claytone XL, Claytone 34 and Claytone 40 sold or made by the company Southern Clay, the modified clays known under the name quaternium-18 benzalkonium bentonites and sold or made under the names Claytone HT, Claytone GR and Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay, the clays modified with stearyldimethylbenzoylammonium chloride, known as steralkonium bentonites, such as the products sold or made under the names Claytone APA and Claytone AF by the company Southern Clay, and Baragel 24 sold or made by the company Rheox.
As polyorganosiloxanes which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the crosslinked elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes described in application EP-A-0,295,886, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference. According to that application, they are obtained by addition reaction and crosslinking, in the presence of a platinum-type catalyst, of at least:
As examples of polyorganosiloxanes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those sold or made under the names KSG6 from Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C from Dow-Corning, Gransil from Grant Industries (SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556) or those marketed in the form of preconstituted gels (KSG15, KSG17, KSG16, KSG18, KSG21 from Shin-Etsu, Gransil SR 5CYC gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 gel, Gransil SR DC556 gel, SF 1204 and JK 113 from General Electric. A mixture of these commercial products may also be used.
As alkyl galactomannans which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of guar gum or carob gum alkylated with C1 to C−6, for example, C1 to C3 alkyl chains, such as ethyl or propyl guar having a degree of substitution of 2 to 3, for example, of about 2.5 to 2.8, as described in document EP-A-708 114 and sold or made by the company Aqualon under the name N-Hance-AG 200® or N-Hance AG 50®.
As polymers or copolymers resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of an ethylenic monomer, use may be made of vinyl, acrylic or methacrylic copolymers which may be block copolymers, such as diblock or triblock copolymers, or even multiblock or starburst or radial copolymers. The at least one ethylenic gelling agent may comprise, for example, a styrene block (S), an alkylstyrene block (AS), an ethylene/butylene block (EB), an ethylene/propylene block (EP), a butadiene block (B), an isoprene block (I), an acrylate block (A), a methacrylate block (MA) or a combination of these blocks.
In one embodiment, a copolymer comprising at least one styrene block is used as gelling agent or ethylenic rheological agent. A triblock copolymer and in particular those of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type, such as those sold or made under the name “Luvitol HSB” by BASF and those of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) type or alternatively of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene/butylene) type, such as those sold or made under the brand name “Kraton” by Shell Chemical Co. or Gelled Permethyl 99A by Penreco, may be used. Styrene-methacrylate copolymers can also be used.
As ethylenical rheological agent which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of Kraton (G1650 (SEBS), Kraton G1651 (SEBS), Kraton G1652 (SEBS), Kraton G1657X (SEBS), Kraton G1701X (SEP), Kraton G1702X (SEP), Kraton G1726X (SEB), Kraton G1750X (EP) multiarm, Kraton G1765X (EP) multiarm, Kraton D-1101 (SBS), Kraton D-1102 (SBS), Kraton D-1107 (SIS), Gelled Permethyl 99A-750, Gelled Permethyl 99A-753-58 (mixture of starburst block polymer and triblock polymer), Gelled Permethyl 99A-753-59 (mixture of starburst block polymer and triblock polymer), Versagel 5970 and Versagel 5960 from Penreco (mixture of starburst polymer and triblock polymer in isododecane), and OS 129880, OS 129881 and OS 84383 from Lubrizol (styrene-methacrylate copolymer).
As other rheological agents which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of silicone gums. The silicone gum can correspond to the formula:
in which:
Among the silicone gums which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which:
As other gelling agents or rheological agents which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of silica, such as fumed silica. The fumed silica may have a particle size which may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 nm to 200 nm.
The fumed silicas may be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in a hydrogen-oxygen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups at their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are sold or made, for example, under the names “Aerosil 130®”, “Aerosil 200®”, “Aerosil 255®”, “Aerosil 300®” and “Aerosil 380®” by the company Degussa, and “CAB-O-SIL HS-5®”, “CAB-O-SIL EH-5®”, “CAB-O-SIL LM-130®”, “CAB-O-SIL MS-55®” and “CAB-O-SIL M-5®” by the company Cabot.
It is thus possible to chemically modify the surface of the hydrophilic silica by chemical reaction, producing a reduction in the number of silanol groups. The silanol groups can be replaced, for example, with hydrophobic groups: this then gives a hydrophobic silica. The hydrophobic groups may be:
According to the invention, a hydrophobic silica, such as a fumed silica, may be used as lipophilic gelling agent or rheological agent. The use of fumed silica makes it possible to obtain a translucent or even transparent composition, in particular in the form of a stick which does not exude, in the absence of opacifying particles such as waxes, fillers and pigments (including nacres).
The at least one liposoluble rheological agent can allow the exudation of the composition to be limited and can allow its stability to be increased, while at the same time conserving the composition's glossy appearance, which is not possible with waxes such as those used conventionally in cosmetics and dermatology. These gelling agents can be used, for example, at concentrations of from 0.05% to 35% relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 0.5% to 20% or from 1% to 10%.
Additional Additives
The composition of the invention can also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen in particular from antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, waxes, fillers, products that are pasty or viscous at room temperature, neutralizing agents, liposoluble polymers and polymers that are dispersible in the medium, cosmetic and dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, dispersants such as poly(2-hydroxystearic acid), and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0% to 20% (such as from 0.01% to 20%) relative to the total weight of the composition and further such as from 0.01% to 10% (if present).
The composition of the invention can also contain, as an additive, an aqueous phase containing water that is optionally thickened or gelled with an aqueous-phase thickener or gelling agent and/or containing ingredients soluble in water. The water can represents from 0.01 to 50%, for example from 0.5 to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
The composition according to the invention can be in the form of a tinted or non tinted dermatological composition or a care composition for keratin materials such as the skin, the lips and/or superficial body growths, in the form of an antisun composition or body hygiene composition in particular in the form of a deodorant product or make-up-removing product in stick form. It can be used in particular as a care base for the skin, superficial body growths or the lips (lip balms, for protecting the lips against cold and/or sunlight and/or the wind, or care cream for the skin, the nails or the hair). As defined herein, a deodorant product is personal hygiene product and does not relate to care, make-up or treatment of keratin materials, including keratinous fibers.
The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a coloured make-up product for the skin, in particular a foundation, optionally having care or treating properties, a blusher, a face powder, an eye shadow, a concealer product, an eyeliner, a make-up product for the body; a make-up product for the lips such as a lipstick, optionally having care or treating properties; a make-up product for superficial body growths such as the nails or the eyelashes, in particular in the form of a mascara cake, or for the eyebrows and the hair, in particular in the form of a pencil.
Needless to say, the composition of the invention should be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, i.e. it should contain a non-toxic physiologically acceptable medium and should be able to be applied to the skin, superficial body growths or the lips of human beings. For the purposes of the invention, the expression “cosmetically acceptable” means a composition of pleasant appearance, odour, feel and taste.
The composition advantageously contains at least one cosmetic active agent and/or at least one dermatological active agent, i.e., an agent having a beneficial effect on the skin, lips or body growths and/or at least one coloring agent.
Coloring Agents
The coloring agent according to the invention may be chosen from the lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacreous pigments (i.e., nacres) usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof. This coloring agent is generally present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50% relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.5% to 40% and further such as from 5% to 30%, if it is present. In the case of a composition in the form of a free or compacted powder, the amount of coloring agent in the form of solid particles that are insoluble in the medium (nacres and/or pigments) may be up to 90% relative to the total weight of the composition.
The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow or annatto. They can represent from 0.1% to 20% of the weight of the composition, for example, from 0.1% to 6% (if present). The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice or methylene blue, and can represent up to 6% of the total weight of the composition.
The pigments may be white or coloured, mineral and/or organic, and coated or uncoated. Among the mineral pigments which may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium oxide, as well as iron oxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments which may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium. The pigments can represent from 0.1% to 50%, such as from 0.5% to 40% and further such as from 2% to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition, if they are present.
The nacreous pigments may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, in particular, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the type mentioned above, as well as nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can represent, for example, from 0.1% to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition, and further such as from 0.1% to 15%, if they are present.
In one embodiment, the coloring agent is a pigment (nacreous or not).
Waxes
The composition can optionally contain one or more waxes to improve the structuring in stick form, although this rigid form can be obtained in the absence of wax. For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 KPa), which undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than 40° C. and further such as greater than 55° C. and which may be up to 200° C., and having an anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state. The size of the crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained. It is this recrystallization in the mixture which is responsible for the reduction in the gloss of the mixture. Thus, the composition advantageously contains little or no wax, and in particular less than 5% wax.
For the purposes of the invention, the waxes are those generally used in cosmetics and dermatology; they are, for example, of natural origin, for instance beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites and hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil as well as waxes of synthetic origin, for instance polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides that are solid at 40° C., for example, at above 55° C., silicone waxes such as alkyl- and alkoxy-poly(di)methylsiloxanes and/or poly(di)methyl-siloxane esters that are solid at 40° C., for example, at above 55° C.
According to the invention, the melting point values correspond to the melting peak measured by the “Differential Scanning Calorimetry” method with a temperature rise of 5 or 10° C./min.
Liposoluble or Dispersible Polymers
The composition of the invention also can contain at least one polymer that is liposoluble or dispersible in the medium, other than the structuring polymer and the at least one rheological agent, and may have film-forming properties and may have, for example, an average molecular weight of from 500 to 1 000 000, such as from 1 000 to 500 000, and for example, further such as from 5 000 to 100 000, and even further such as from 5 000 to 20 000. This at least one liposoluble polymer may contribute towards increasing the viscosity and/or improving the staying power of the film. The at least one liposoluble polymer can have a softening point of not more than 30° C.
As examples of liposoluble polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: polyalkylenes, in particular polybutene, poly(meth)acrylates, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C8 alkyl radical, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, silicone polymers that are compatible with the fatty phase, as well as vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, copolymers of a C2 to C30, such as C3 to C22 alkene, and combinations thereof, can be used. As examples of VP copolymers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene or VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
Not only for the staying power properties but also for the feel and consistency properties of the film, the PVP/hexadecene copolymer having an average molecular weight of from 7 000 to 7 500 or alternatively the PVP/eicosene copolymer having an average molecular weight of from 8 000 to 9 000 can be used.
The liposoluble or dispersible polymers in the composition of the invention can be also used in an amount of from 0.01% to 20% (as active material) relative to the total weight of the composition, such as, for example, from 1% to 10%, if they are present.
Pasty Fatty Compound
The composition according to the invention also can contain at least one fatty compound that is pasty at room temperature. For the purposes of the invention, the expression “pasty fatty substances” means fatty substances with a melting point ranging from 20° C. to 55° C., such as from 25° C. to 45° C., or from 25° C. to 40° C., and/or a viscosity at 40° C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa·s (1 400 poises), such as from 0.5 to 25 Pa·s, measured using a Contraves TV or Rhéomat 80 viscometer, equipped with a spindle rotating at 240 min−1 for supplying with 60 Hz or at 200 min−1 for supplying with 50 Hz. A person skilled in the art can select the spindle for measuring the viscosity from the spindles MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to carry out the measurement of the pasty compound tested.
According to the invention, at least one pasty fatty substance is used. The at least one pasty fatty substance can be chosen from hydrocarbon-based compounds, optionally of polymeric type; they can also be chosen from silicone compounds and/or fluoro compounds; they may also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon-based compounds and/or silicone compounds and/or fluoro compounds. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, the hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds (mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally ester groups) can be used in major proportion.
Among the pasty compounds which may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins or oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity of from 18 to 21 Pa·s, such as from 19 to 20.5 Pa·s, and/or a melting point of from 30° C. to 55° C. such as from 30° C. to 40° C., and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols, for example, those containing from 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of about from 20° C. to 35° C. and/or viscosity at 40° C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa·s), such as triisostearyl or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; polyvinyl laurate; cholesterol esters, such as triglycerides of plant origin, such as hydrogenated plant oils, viscous polyesters such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), and mixtures thereof. Triglycerides of plant origin which may be used are hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, such as “Thixinr” from Rhéox.
Mention may also be made of pasty silicone fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and having a melting point of 20-55° C. and for example from 20° C. to 40° C., such as stearyldimethicones, such as, for example, those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.
The pasty fatty substance(s) may be present in a proportion of from 0.1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, such as in a proportion of from 1% to 45% by weight, and further such as from 2 to 30% by weight, in the composition, if they are present.
The composition according to the invention may be manufactured by the known processes, that are generally used in cosmetics or dermatology. It may be manufactured by the process which comprises heating the polymer at least to its softening point, adding the gelling agent(s), the amphiphilic compound(s), the coloring agent(s) and the additive(s) thereto and then mixing everything together until a clear, transparent solution is obtained. After reducing the temperature, the volatile solvent(s) is(are) then added to the mixture obtained. The homogeneous mixture obtained can then be cast in a suitable mould such as a lipstick mould or directly into the packaging articles (case or dish in particular).
Another aspect of the invention is a lipstick composition in stick form containing at least one continuous liquid fatty phase structured with at least one non-waxy structuring polymer having a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100 000, and at least one gelling agent for theliquid fatty phase, the liquid fatty phase, the structuring polymer and the gelling agent forming a physiologically acceptable medium, the gelling agent and the structuring polymer can give the composition the appearance of a deformable elastic solid with a hardness ranging from 30 to 300 gf, such as 30 to 250 gf, and further such as 30 to 200 gf, even in the absence of wax. The hardness is measured by the “cheese-wire” method described above. The non-waxy polymer may be a polymer whose skeleton comprises units containing a hetero atom, as defined previously, and further may be a polyamide that may contain (an) alkyl end group(s) linked to the skeleton via an ester group.
This lipstick composition in stick form may contain an additive chosen from fatty compounds that are pasty at room temperature, liposoluble polymers and mixtures thereof, as defined previously.
An aspect of the invention is also a care, make-up or treatment cosmetic process for keratin materials of human beings, and in particular the skin, the lips and superficial body growths, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition, in particular the cosmetic composition, as defined above.
An aspect of the invention is also a combination of at least one polymer having a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100 000, such as less than 50 000, comprising a) a polymer skeleton containing hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing at least one hetero atom, and b) optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and/or at least one terminal fatty chain that are optionally functionalized, containing from 8 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, and of at least one gelling agent for the liquid fatty phase, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, to obtain a solid composition, such as a wax-free composition, which does not exude and/or which can produce a glossy and/or comfortable deposit on keratin materials.
The compositions of the present invention may also further comprise water, optionally thickened with an aqueous-phase thickener or gelled with a gelling agent and/or containing ingredients soluble in water.
The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples which follow. The amounts are given as percentages by mass.
Procedure
The Uniclear 100 was solubilized (or dissolved) at 100° C. in a mixture of melted oils and wax, followed by addition of the pigments and fillers. The whole mixture was mixed using a deflocculating turbomixer (Raynerie) and left stirring for 1H 30 min. The product obtained was then cast in molds for lipsticks in stick form.
The pigments were mixed with the oil heated to 60° C.; the mixture was ground three times in a three-roll mill.
The sticks of lipstick obtained had a diameter of 8.1 and a hardness of 46±5 gf measured using a “cheese wire”. These lipsticks were considered by testers as glossy and having good staying power. The stability of the compositions was tested using the test described herein. The composition was found to have good stability in that there was no exudation at room temperature (25° C.) or at 37° C., or at 47° C., for 2 months.
The silica was placed in a heating vessel and then dispersed using a Rayneri stirrer in the mixture of oils of phase B, heated to about 60° C. When the gel obtained was homogeneous, the Bentone was added thereto. The mixture was then stirred until a homogeneous preparation was obtained, corresponding to phase B. Phase C was prepared by grinding the pigments in the hydrogenated polybutene using a three-roll mill.
Phase A was then heated to 100° C. with phase B. When the mixture obtained was homogeneous, the ground material C was added and the resulting mixture was heated for 1 h 30 min with magnetic stirring. The preparation was then cast in a mold for lipsticks in stick form.
The sticks of lipstick obtained had a diameter of 8.1 mm and a hardness of 49±5 gf. These sticks of lipstick did not exude at room temperature for several months, or at 37° C. or at 47° C. for 1 month. They deposited a glossy film which had good staying power and which did not migrate.
Five clear anhydrous sunscreen sticks comprising compositions of the present invention were prepared. The tables below list the ingredients used.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/IB00/02006 | Dec 2000 | WO | international |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind | 371c Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/IB01/02840 | 12/12/2001 | WO | 00 | 12/20/2002 |
| Publishing Document | Publishing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| WO02/058643 | 8/1/2002 | WO | A |
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| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20030185780 A1 | Oct 2003 | US |
