Patent Application
20080293826
1. Field of the Invention
The invention relates to cosmetic compositions whose major component other than water is petrolatum incorporating additives achieving a product with good consistency to allow for a smooth aesthetic application onto human skin.
2. The Related Art
Petrolatum is one of the oldest skin treatment products still in commerce today. For over 100 years, the Chesebrough Company and its successors have sold the substance under the brand, Vaseline®. There is good reason for the longevity of this product. Its occlusive and healing properties render this product especially efficacious against dry and damaged skin.
Of course there are many drawbacks to petrolatum. This substance is greasy. When in contact with clothes or anything else, the product has a tendency to be transferred through rub off. An approach to this problem is found in U.S. Pat. No. 5,407,678 (Rose et al.) which employs aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and a C12-C15 alkyl lactate to provide a nongreasy yet efficacious product active against dry skin.
A nongreasy and easily spreadable composition of petrolatum is reported in U.S. Pat. No. 5,595,745 (Znaiden et al.). The petroleum butter mentioned in this patent utilizes C18-C30 acyl lactylate as a facilitator to achieve improved skin healing, moisturization and other skin benefit properties.
Despite these advances, problems remain. Traditional petrolatum has a rather stiff consistency. Pure petrolatum is not readily spreadable onto the skin surface. Thus, there remains the problem of finding formulations easily rubbable onto skin.
A cosmetic composition is provided that includes:
Now it has been found that cosmetic compositions with substantial amounts of petrolatum can have their aesthetic properties improved through incorporation of an ethoxylated urethane. Not only is product stability improved but the ethoxylated urethane achieves a thickening effect without being sticky or tacky. Further, the resultant thickened composition is still easily rubbable into skin.
Amounts of the petrolatum for purposes of this invention may range from about 1% to about 40%, preferably from about 5 to about 30%, more preferably from about 8 to about 15% by weight of the composition.
Water will also be present in compositions of this invention. Amounts of the water may range from about 20 to about 90%, preferably from about 30 to about 80%, and optimally from about 50 to about 65% by weight of the composition.
An essential further component of compositions according to the present invention is that of an ethoxylated urethane. Amounts of the ethoxylated urethane may range from about 0.001 to about 5%, preferably from about 0.01 to 0.4%, more preferably from about 0.01 to about 0.15%, even more preferably from about 0.02 to 0.085%, and optimally from about 0.05 to 0.075% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments the amount of ethoxylated urethane may range from about 0.01 to less than 0.1% by weight of the composition.
Ethoxylated urethanes of the present invention that are particularly preferred are dimers such as those according to the structure below.
wherein n is a whole number from about 50 to 120, preferably 75-100, and most preferably 75 or 100, and R is independently a C12-C24 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably an alkyl group, more preferably a C18 alkyl group.
Particularly preferred are ethoxylated urethanes available commercially under the tradename Dermothix 75 (INCI Name: Disteareth-75 IPDI) and Dermothix 100 (INCI Name: Disteareth-100 IPDI) and their combinations, sold by Alzo International Inc., Sayreville, N.J.
13 Another component which may be present in compositions of this invention is cocoa butter. Amounts of cocoa butter may range from about 0.01 to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 10%, and optimally from about 0.8 to about 2% by weight of the composition.
The term “cocoa butter” is also defined as oleum theobromatis (theobroma oil). This material is obtained from the cacao bean by expression, decoction or extraction by solvent. Particularly common is a production method wherein cacao seeds are compressed between hot or cold plates. Typical properties are a specific gravity ranging from about 0.858 to 0.864 (100/25° C.), melting point between about 30 to about 35° C., refractive index (n 40/D) of about 1.4537 to 1.4585; saponification number about 188 to 200 and an iodine number from about 32 to 43.
Another useful component of the present invention is that of a taurate polymer or copolymer. A particularly preferred copolymer is one wherein the taurate repeating monomer unit is acryloyl dimethyltaurate (in either free acid or salt form). Monomers forming the copolymer with taurate may include: styrene, hydroxyethyl acrylic acid, hydroxyethyl methacrylic acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, vinyl chloride, vinyl acetate, vinyl pyrrolidone, isoprene, vinyl alcohol, vinyl methylether, chloro-styrene, dialkylamino-styrene, maleic acid, acrylamide, methacrylamide and mixtures thereof. Where the term “acid” appears, the term means not only the free acid but also C1-C30 alkyl esters, anhydrides and salts thereof. Preferably but not exclusively the salts may be ammonium, alkanolammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts.
Most preferred as the copolymer is a Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyidimethyl Taurate Copolymer sold as Simulgel EG® by Seppic Corporation. Other taurate copolymers may also be useful and can include Simulgel NS® which is known by its INCI name of Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, also from Seppic Corporation.
Number average molecular weight of taurate polymers according to the invention may range from about 1,000 to about 3,000,000, preferably from about 3,000 to about 100,000, optimally from about 10,000 to about 80,000.
Amounts of the taurate polymer when present may range from about 0.001 to about 10%, preferably from about 0.01 to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 5%, optimally from about 0.2 to about 2% by weight of the composition.
Emollient materials may serve as cosmetically acceptable carriers. These may be in the form of natural or synthetic esters, hydrocarbons and silicones. Amounts of the emollients may range anywhere from about 0.1 to about 60%, preferably between about 1 and about 30% by weight of the composition.
Among the ester emollients are:
Natural ester emollients principally are based upon mono-, di- and tri-glycerides. Representative glycerides include sunflower seed oil, cottonseed oil, borage oil, borage seed oil, primrose oil, castor and hydrogenated castor oils, rice bran oil, soybean oil, olive oil, safflower oil, shea butter, jojoba oil and combinations thereof. Animal derived emollients are represented by lanolin oil and lanolin derivatives. Amounts of the natural esters may range from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of the compositions.
Hydrocarbons which are suitable cosmetically acceptable carriers include mineral oil, C11-C13 isoparaffins, polybutenes, and especially isohexadecane, available commercially as Permethyl 101A from Presperse Inc. Hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Panalane H300E (ex Ineos Corp.) are useful both as carriers and adjunct thickeners. The hydrocarbons and particularly hydrogenated polyisobutenes may be present in amounts from about 0.01 to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5%, and optimally from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of the composition.
Fatty acids having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may also be suitable as cosmetically acceptable carriers. Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, hydroxystearic and behenic acids.
A wide variety of silicones including materials of liquid, solid or semi-solid consistency at room temperature can be useful as emollients for this invention. Liquid silicones include silicone oils which may be divided into the volatile and nonvolatile variety. The term “volatile” as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic (cyclomethicone) or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Commercially available volatile silicone oils include DC 200, DC 244, DC 245, DC 344 and DC 345, all supplied by the Dow Corning Corporation; SF-1204, SF-1202 Silicone Fluids, GE 7207 and GE 7158 sourced from GE Silicones; and SWS-03314 sourced from SWS Silicones Corporation.
Useful nonvolatile silicone oils include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially nonvolatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from about 5×10−6 to 0.1 m2/s at 25° C. Among the preferred nonvolatile emollients useful in the present compositions are the polydimethyl siloxanes having viscosities from about 1×10−5 to about 4×10−4 m2/s at 25° C. Representative commercial materials include polyalkyl siloxanes sold under the Viscasil Series from G.E. Silicones, and the DC 200 series sold by the Dow Corning Corporation. Polyalkylaryl siloxanes including polymethylphenyl siloxanes such as SF 1075 methyl-phenyl fluid and 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (sold by Dow Corning Corporation) may also be useful. Illustrative polyoxyalkylene ether copolymers are commercially available as SF 1066 from G.E. Silicones, and PEG-10 Dimethicone available from Shin-Etsu.
Another class of nonvolatile silicones are emulsifying and non-emulsifying silicone elastomers. Representative of this category is DimethiconeNinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer available as Dow Corning 9040, General Electric SFE 839, and Shin-Etsu KSG-18. Silicone waxes such as Silwax WS-L (Dimethicone Copolyol Laurate) may also be useful.
Amounts of the silicone may range from about 0.05 to about 50%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 40%, more preferably from about 2 to about 20%, optimally from about 5 to about 12% by weight of the composition.
Emulsifiers may also be present in compositions of this invention. Total concentration of the emulsifier when present may range from about 0.1 to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 2%, optimally from about 1.8 to about 12% by weight of the composition. The emulsifier may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric actives. Particularly preferred nonionic emulsifiers are those with a C10-C20 fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C2-C10 alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, mono- and di-C8-C20 fatty acids; and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof. Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides (e.g. methyl gluconamides) and trialkylamine oxides are also suitable nonionic emulsifiers.
Preferred anionic emulsifiers include soap, alkyl ether sulfates and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and suIfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, C8-C20 acyl isethionates, C8-C20 alkyl ether phosphates, C8-C20 sarcosinates, C8-C20 acyl lactylates, sulfoacetates and combinations thereof.
Useful amphoteric surfactants include cocoamidopropyl betaine, C12-C20 trialkyl betaines, sodium lauroamphoacetate, and sodium laurodiamphoacetate.
Adjunct humectants may be employed in the present invention. These are generally polyhydric alcohol-type materials. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. The amount of adjunct humectant may range anywhere from about 0.2 to about 40%, preferably between 1 and 25%, most preferably between 2 and 15% by weight of the composition. Most preferred is glycerin as an adjunct humectant or moisturizer.
Sunscreen agents may also be included in compositions of the present invention. Particularly preferred are such materials as ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, available as Parsol MCX®, Avobenzene available as Parsol 1789®, and benzophenone-3 also known as Oxybenzone. Inorganic sunscreen actives may be employed such as microfine (1 to 100 nm) titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Amounts of the sunscreen agents when present may generally range from 0.1 to 30%, preferably from 2 to 20%, optimally from 4 to 10% by weight of the composition.
Preservatives can desirably be incorporated into the compositions of this invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Particularly preferred preservatives are phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, dimethyloldimethylhydantoin, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid salts (EDTA), sodium dehydroacetate, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, iodopropynbutylcarbamate and benzyl alcohol. The preservatives should be selected having regard for the use of the composition and possible incompatibilities between the preservatives and other ingredients. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.0001% to 2% by weight of the composition.
Compositions of the present invention may include vitamins. Illustrative vitamins are Vitamin A (retinol), Vitamin B2, Vitamin B3 (niacinamide), Vitamin B6, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Folic Acid and Biotin. Derivatives of the vitamins may also be employed. For instance, Vitamin C derivatives include ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glycoside. Derivatives of Vitamin E include tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl palmitate and tocopheryl linoleate. DL-panthenol and derivatives may also be employed. Total amount of vitamins when present in compositions according to the present invention may range from 0.001 to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 1%, optimally from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of the composition.
Another type of useful substance can be that of an enzyme such as amylases, oxidases, proteases, lipases, cellulases, elastases and combinations.
Skin lightening compounds may be included in the compositions of the invention. Illustrative substances are placental extract, lactic acid, niacinamide, arbutin, kojic acid, ferulic acid, Pisum Sativum (Actiwhite LS 9808, ex Cognis), resorcinol and derivatives including 4-substituted resorcinols and combinations thereof. Amounts of these agents may range from about 0.1 to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 2% by weight of the composition.
Sunless tanners may also be formulated with compositions of this invention. Representative of this category is dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose, Troxerutin, melanin, mahkanni and mixtures thereof. Adjunct agents include amino acids, peptides, amines and combinations. Amounts of the sunless tanner may range from about 0.1 to about 15%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10%, optimally from about 1 to about 5% by weight.
Desquamation promoters may be present. Illustrative are the alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids and beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids. The term “acid” is meant to include not only the free acid but also salts and C1-C30 alkyl or aryl esters thereof and lactones generated from removal of water to form cyclic or linear lactone structures. Representative acids are glycolic, lactic and malic acids. Salicylic acid is representative of the beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids. Amounts of these materials when present may range from about 0.01 to about 15% by weight of the composition.
A variety of herbal extracts may optionally be included in compositions of this invention. The extracts may either be water soluble or water-insoluble carried in a solvent which respectively is hydrophilic or hydrophobic. Water and ethanol are the preferred extract solvents. Illustrative extracts include those from green tea, chamomile, licorice, aloe vera, grape seed, citrus unshui, willow bark, sage, thyme and rosemary.
Also included may be such materials as lipoic acid, retinoxytrimethylsilane (available from Clariant Corp. under the Silcare 1M-75 trademark), dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) and combinations thereof. Ceramides (including Ceramide 1, Ceramide 3, Ceramide 3B and Ceramide 6) as well as pseudoceramides may also be useful. Amounts of these materials may range from about 0.000001 to about 10%, preferably from about 0.0001 to about 1% by weight of the composition.
Colorants, opacifiers and abrasives may also be included in compositions of the present invention. Each of these substances may range from about 0.05 to about 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight of the composition.
Viscosity of compositions according to the present invention may range from about 2,000 to about 1 million cps, preferably from about 50,000 to about 900,000 cps, optimally from 600,000 to 800,000 cps. The optimal products are often referred to as “butters”.
The term “comprising” is meant not to be limiting to any subsequently stated elements but rather to encompass non-specified elements of major or minor functional importance. In other words the listed steps, elements or options need not be exhaustive. Whenever the words “including” or “having” are used, these terms are meant to be equivalent to “comprising” as defined above.
Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material ought to be understood as modified by the word “about”.
All documents referred to herein, including all patents, patent applications, and printed publications, are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety in this disclosure.
It should be noted that in specifying any range of concentration or amount, any particular upper concentration can be associated with any particular lower concentration or amount.
The following examples will more fully illustrate the embodiments of this invention. All parts, percentages and proportions referred to herein and in the appended claims are by weight unless otherwise illustrated.
Cocoa butter lotions of the present invention are presented in Table 1.
A series of comparative experiments were conducted to evaluate ethoxylated urethane and other materials on their effects toward producing a product with good consistency and smooth aesthetic application onto skin (stick/slip friction).
The procedure measured friction during the first 10 minutes of drying after application onto a surface. The test is conducted in an environmentally controlled chamber at 21° C. and 20% relative humidity. Sample size of 100 microliters is spread on a Lucite table over a 6 by 1.25 inch area (2.54 cm to the inch). The table is attached to the cross-head of an Instron Model 4501 Materials Testing System. A 3 by 1 inch aluminum sled covered with a 100% rayon nonwoven is pulled across the same area at a rate of 10 cm/min, starting one minute after application and repeated each minute for ten minutes. The integral of force vs. a distance of 40 mm (i.e.—amount of work of dynamic slip friction units of gram-mm) is calculated for each of the intervals. Also measured is the static load (grams) or stick. Three runs are conducted for each product
A series of samples were prepared for the evaluations. The formulas are recorded in Table 2.
Results of the Instron tests are recorded in Table 3. Lower values for stick indicate less stickiness (tack) of the sample. Stickiness (tack) is an undesirable skinfeel. Likewise, lower values of friction indicate improved feel aesthetics.
Samples 1-4 demonstrate that the most frictionless performance for the ethoxylated polyurethane peaked around 0.15%. Levels between 0.075 and 0.5% were within an operative range. Small amounts of cocoa butter were also useful as shown by comparison of Sample 2 with Sample 7. Likewise, performance was increased by the presence of hydrogenated polyisobutene as reflected in Samples 8-10.
| Number | Date | Country | |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60939154 | May 2007 | US |
