The present disclosure relates to novel cosmetic hair compositions comprising at least one tridecyl trimellitate and at least one isoeicosane. It is also directed towards processes, for example, a process for treating the hair by applying the compositions, and also a process for giving the hair sheen by applying the compositions.
The use of oils of the benzoic triacid triester type, such as tridecyl trimellitate, is well known for the formulation of numerous cosmetic products comprising a fatty phase.
It is described in patent application EP-A-0 792 637 for the preparation of lipsticks. It is also mentioned in patent application EP-A-0 194 055 for the preparation of anhydrous cosmetic formulations free of mineral oil. In U.S. Pat. No. 4,940,577, this type of oil constitutes the fatty phase of transparent microemulsions of the water-in-oil type with a low water content, which may be used as antisun products.
There is a need for hair products that can give the hair long-lasting sheen, without making the hair look too greasy. This need is not addressed by the compositions of the prior art.
In one embodiment, the Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that compositions comprising at least one tridecyl trimellitate and at least one isoeicosane provide the hair with at least one of strong, long-lasting sheen and a smooth feel.
The Applicant has also found that in some embodiments these compositions adhere well to the hair and have good cosmetic properties.
The Applicant has also discovered that these compositions, in some embodiments, can be formulated in an alcoholic medium.
One non-limiting embodiment of the present disclosure is a cosmetic hair composition, wherein the composition comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one tridecyl trimellitate and at least one isoeicosane.
Another subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic hair process, such as a process for treating the hair using the compositions disclosed herein.
A subject of the invention is also a process for giving the hair sheen by applying the compositions disclosed herein to the hair.
Tridecyl trimellitate is an oil having the following formula:
The commercial products sold under the name Dub TMTD by the company Stearineries Dubois and under the name Liponate TDTM by the company Lipo Chemicals may be used.
In one embodiment, the individual concentrations of tridecyl trimellitate and of isoeicosane range from 0.01% to 15%, such as from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a further embodiment, the mixture comprising at least one tridecyl trimellitate and at least one isoeicosane is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as ranging from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The tridecyl trimellitate/isoeicosane weight ratio, may, for example, range from 100 to 0.01, such as from 10 to 0.1. The ratio may range, for further example, from 0.7 to 1.3.
The cosmetically acceptable medium comprises, for example, water or at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent such as a solvent chosen from alcohols and water-solvent(s) mixtures. These solvents may be, for example, C1-C4 alcohols.
Among these alcohols, mention may be made of ethanol and isopropanol. In one non-limiting embodiment ethanol may be used.
The composition may also comprise at least one fixing polymer.
For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term “fixing polymer” means any polymer that can give the hair a shape or that can maintain this shape.
The at least one fixing polymer may be chosen from cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the at least one fixing polymer is a mixture of fixing polymers.
The cationic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present disclosure may be chosen from, for example, polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, and having a molecular weight ranging from 500 to about 5,000,000, for example, 1,000 to 3,000,000.
Among these polymers, mention may be made, for example, of the following cationic polymers:
The copolymers of family (1) may also comprise at least one comonomer unit which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof; vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam; and vinyl esters.
Thus, among these copolymers of family (1), non-limiting mention may be made of:
(5) cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose and of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, and disclosed, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- and hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted, for example, with at least one of a methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium and a dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
The products sold corresponding to this definition are, for example, the products sold under the name “Celquat L 200” and “Celquat H 100” by the company National Starch.
The anionic fixing polymers may be chosen, for example, from polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphoric acid and having a number average molecular weight approximately ranging from 500 to 5,000,000.
Examples of groups derived from carboxylic acids include unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula:
In the above mentioned formula, a lower alkyl group may be a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as methyl and ethyl.
The anionic fixing polymers comprising carboxylic groups disclosed herein may be, for example:
These polymers are described, for example, in French patents FR 2 350 384 and FR 2 357 241 by the Applicant.
The homopolymers and copolymers comprising sulfonic groups are polymers comprising at least one unit chosen from vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic and acrylamidoalkylsulfonic units.
These polymers can be chosen, for example, from:
As another anionic fixing polymer that can be used according to the disclosure, non-limiting mention may be made of the branched block anionic polymer sold under the name Fixate G100 by the company Noveon.
According to the disclosure, the anionic fixing polymers may be chosen from, for example, acrylic acid copolymers, such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold under the name Ultraholde Strong by the company BASF; copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch; polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives and acrylic acid and esters thereof, such as the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name Gantrez® by the company ISP; the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit® L by the company Rohm Pharma; the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX or MAE by the company BASF; the vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers sold under the name Luviset CA 66 by the company BASF; the vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers grafted with polyethylene glycol sold under the name Aristoflex A® by the company BASF; and the polymer sold under the name Fixate G100 by the company Noveon.
Among the anionic fixing polymers mentioned above, non-limiting mention may be made of the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymer sold under the name Gantrez® ES 425 by the company ISP, the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold under the name Ultrahold® Strong by the company BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit® L by the company Rohm Pharma, the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX or MAE by the company BASF, the vinylpyrrolidone/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP, and the polymer sold under the name Fixate G100 by the company Noveon.
The amphoteric fixing polymers that can be used in accordance with the disclosure can be chosen, for example, from polymers comprising units B and C distributed randomly in the polymer chain, wherein B is a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C is a unit derived from an acid monomer comprising at least one group chosen from carboxylic and sulfonic groups, or alternatively B and C can be groups chosen from those derived from carboxybetaine and sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomers;
The amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the definition given above may also be chosen from the following polymers:
The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides according to the disclosure may be, for example, compounds wherein the alkyl groups comprise from 2 to 12 carbon atoms such as N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
The acidic comonomers may be chosen from, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
Non-limiting examples of the basic comonomers mentioned above are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N′-dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
The copolymers whose CTFA (4th edition, 1991) name is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name Amphomer or Lovocryl 47 by the company National Starch, may be used.
The saturated carboxylic acids may be chosen, for example, from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid, 2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid, acids comprising an ethylenic double bond such as, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid.
The alkane sultones used in the acylation may be, for example, propane sultone or butane sultone, the salts of the alkylating agents may be, for example, sodium or potassium salts.
The polymers comprising such units can also comprise units derived from nonzwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
By way of example, mention may be made of the copolymers of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate such as the product sold under the name Diaformer Z301 by the company Sandoz.
Among the amphoteric fixing polymers described above, non-limiting mention may be made of those of family (3), such as the copolymers whose CTFA name is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer®, Amphomer® LV 71 or Lovocryl® 47 by the company National Starch; and those of family (4) such as the copolymers of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate, sold, for example, under the name Diaformer® Z301 by the company Sandoz.
The nonionic fixing polymers disclosed herein are chosen, for example, from:
The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above contain, for example, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
According to the disclosure, it is also possible to use fixing polymers of grafted silicone type comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a nonsilicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer, and the other being grafted onto said main chain.
These polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A-0 412 704, EP-A-0 412 707, EP-A-0 640 105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-0 582 152 and WO 93/23009 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,693,935, 4,728,571 and 4,972,037.
These polymers may be amphoteric, anionic or nonionic, for example, anionic or nonionic.
Such polymers are, for example, copolymers that can be obtained by free radical polymerization from the monomer mixture formed from:
Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting chain, mixed polymer units of the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the polyalkyl (meth)acrylate type; and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting chain, polymer units of the polyisobutyl (meth)acrylate type.
Another type of silicone fixing polymer that may be mentioned is the product Luviflex® Silk, sold by the company BASF.
Functionalized or non-functionalized, silicone or non-silicone, cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polyurethanes and mixtures thereof may also be used as fixing polymers.
The polyurethanes intended by the present disclosure are, for example, those disclosed in patents EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485 and FR 2 743 297, and patents EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510 from the company BASF and EP 0 619 111 from the company National Starch.
As polyurethanes that are suitable for the present disclosure, non-limiting mention may be made of the products sold under the names Luviset Pur® and Luviset® Si-P r by the company BASF.
In one embodiment, when the fixing polymers are present, the concentration of these fixing polymers ranges from 0.01% to 20%, for example, 0.05% to 15% such as from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition disclosed herein may further comprise at least one additive chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, fragrances, screening agents, preserving agents, proteins, vitamins, nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers other than the fixing polymers described above, mineral oils, plant and synthetic oils, thickeners and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, such as antidandruff agents, agents for combating hair loss, electrolytes, dyes, pigments, moisturizers such as glycerol and other polyols, and reducing agents.
These additives are optionally present in the composition in proportions that may range, for example, from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The precise amount of each additive depends on its nature and may readily be determined by a person skilled in the art, and will depend on the hair application selected.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the additives such that the advantageous properties of the composition disclosed herein are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
The compositions of the invention may be used for manufacturing numerous hair products such as, for example, products for fixing and/or holding the hair, conditioning products, and haircare products.
These compositions may be packaged in various forms, for example, in pump-dispenser bottles or in aerosol cans, so as to be able to apply the composition in vaporized form or in mousse form. Such packaging forms are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a mousse for fixing or treating the hair. The compositions disclosed herein may also be in the form of creams, gels, emulsions or lotions.
In one embodiment, when the compositions disclosed herein are packaged in aerosol form in order to obtain a lacquer or a mousse, they comprise at least one propellant that may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane and pentane; halogenated hydrocarbons; and mixtures thereof. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen and compressed air may also be used as propellant. Mixtures of propellants may also be used. Dimethyl ether, for example, may be used.
The propellant may be present, for example, in a concentration ranging from 5% to 90% by weight, for example, in a concentration ranging from 10% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in the aerosol device.
The examples that follow are intended to illustrate the invention.
Composition A below was applied to a 5-gram lock of natural European chestnut-brown hair.
(1) tridecyl trimellitate sold by the company Lipo Chemicals
(2) isoeicosane sold by the company Bayer
Composition A was applied using a pump-dispenser bottle onto natural hair. After drying, it was observed that the lock is shiny, feels soft and looks pleasant.
Composition B below was applied to a 5-gram lock of natural European chestnut-brown hair.
(1) isoeicosane sold by the company Bayer
(2) tridecyl trimellitate sold by the company Lipo Chemicals
(3) oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane comprising phosphate groups, sold by the company Phoenix
(4) polyacrylic acid sold by the company 3V
Composition B was applied to natural hair using a pump-dispenser bottle. After drying, it was observed that the lock was shiny, feels soft and looks pleasant.
Composition C below was applied to a 5-gram lock of natural European chestnut-brown hair.
(1) isoeicosane sold by the company Bayer
(2) tridecyl trimellitate sold by the company Lipo Chemicals
(3) cyclopentadimethylsiloxane sold by the company Dow Corning
(4) oxyethylenated oxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxane sold by the company Dow Corning
Composition C was applied to natural hair using a pump-dispenser bottle. After drying, soft and shiny hair was obtained.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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0307291 | Jun 2003 | FR | national |
This application claims benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No. 60/505,165, filed Sep. 24, 2003.
Number | Date | Country | |
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60505165 | Sep 2003 | US |