Disclosed herein are novel cosmetic hair compositions comprising tridecyl trimellitate and at least one fixing polymer. Also disclosed herein is a cosmetic process, for example, a process for imparting at least one property to hair chosen from fixing a hairstyle and holding a hairstyle using the compositions, and the use of the compositions for imparting sheen to hair.
The use of tribenzoic acid triester oils, such as tridecyl trimellitate, is well known for the formulation of many cosmetic products comprising a fatty phase.
This use is described, for example, in Patent Application No. EP-A-0792637 for preparing lipsticks. It is also mentioned in Patent Application No. EP-A-0194055 for preparing anhydrous cosmetic formulations without mineral oil. In U.S. Pat. No 4,940,577, this type of oil constitutes the fatty phase of transparent water-in-oil microemulsions. These microemulsions have a low water content and can be used as sunscreen products.
However, there is a need for hair products which may make it possible to impart to hair at least one of the following properties: providing hair with some hold and providing a long lasting appearance of sheen, without making it too markedly greasy in nature. These properties are not provided by compositions known in the art.
The present inventors propose to provide a solution to at least one of these problems seen in the prior art.
For example, the present inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that compositions comprising tridecyl trimellitate and at least one fixing polymer may give hair an intense and persistent sheen and, further, may result in hair that is particularly smooth to the touch.
It has also noted that these compositions adhere well to the hair and provide at least one good cosmetic property.
Finally, it has been discovered that these compositions can be formulated in an alcoholic medium.
Other subjects of the embodiments disclosed herein will emerge on reading the description and examples which follow.
Disclosed herein is thus a cosmetic hair composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, tridecyl trimellitate and at least one fixing polymer.
Further disclosed herein is a cosmetic hair process for imparting at least one property to hair chosen from fixing a hairstyle and holding a hairstyle using the compositions.
Even further disclosed herein is the use of the compositions for imparting sheen to hair.
As used herein, “sheen” means a visual property of something that shines with reflected light; shininess, or luster.
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Tridecyl trimellitate is an oil of formula below:
Examples of the tridecyl trimellitate include the commercial product sold under the name DUB TMTD by the company Stéarineries Dubois and the commercial product sold under the name LIPONATE TDTM by the company Lipo Chemicals.
The tridecyl trimellitate may be present in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and, for example, ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fixing Polymer
As used herein, the term “fixing polymer” means any polymer which makes it possible to give shape to hair or to maintain the shape of hair.
The at least one fixing polymer may, for example, be chosen from cationic, anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic fixing polymers.
Cationic Fixing Polvmers
The cationic fixing polymers which can be used in the compositions disclosed herein may, for example, be chosen from polymers comprising at least one group chosen from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine groups which are part of the polymer chain or directly connected thereto, and which have a number-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 5 000 000, and, for example, ranging from 1000 to 3,000,000.
Examples of the cationic fixing polymers include the following:
The copolymers of family (1) may also optionally comprise at least one unit derived from comonomers which can be chosen from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides, and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with at least one group chosen from lower (C1-4) alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, vinyllactams, such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Thus, examples of the copolymers of family (1) include:
Examples of these chitosan compounds include the chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight, sold under the name Kytan Brut Standard by the company Aber Technologies and the chitosan pyrrolidonecarboxylate sold under the name KYTAMER® PC by the company Amerchol; and
The marketed products corresponding to this definition are, for example, the products sold under the names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.
Anionic Fixing Polymers
The anionic fixing polymers may, for example, be chosen from polymers comprising at least one group derived from carboxylic, sulphonic, and phosphoric acid groups, and having a number-average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 5 000 000.
The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula:
wherein:
In the abovementioned formula, the lower alkyl groups may, for example, be chosen from groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, for example, methyl and ethyl groups.
In one embodiment, the anionic fixing polymers comprising at least one group derived from carboxylic groups may be chosen from:
A) homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and salts thereof, such as the products sold under the names VERSICOL® E and K by the company Allied Colloid, and ULTRAHOLD® by the company BASF, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salts, under the names RETEN 421, 423 and 425 by the company Hercules, and sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids;
B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with at least one monoethylenic monomer, for example, chosen from ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, esters of acrylic, and esters of methacrylic acid, optionally grafted with at least one polyalkylene glycol, such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described, for example, in French Patent No.1 222 944 and German Patent Application No. 2 330 956; the copolymers of this type comprise in their chain at least one unit chosen from optionally N-alkylated and hydroxyalkylated acrylamide units, as described, for example, in Luxembourg Patent Application Nos. 75370 and 75371, or proposed under the name QUADRAMER by the company American Cyanamid. Further examples include copolymers of acrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, of acrylic acid and of C1-C20 alkyl, for example lauryl, methacrylate, such as the product sold by the company ISP under the name ACRYLIDONE® LM and methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/tert-butyl acrylate terpolymers such as the product sold under the name LUVIMER® 100 P by the company BASF.
Yet another example of the copolymers include the methacrylic acid/acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers in aqueous dispersion, sold under the name AMERHOLD® DR 25 by the company Amerchol;
C) crotonic acid copolymers, such as those copolymers comprising in their chain at least one unit chosen from vinyl acetate and propionate units, and optionally at least one first additional unit, for example, chosen from allyl esters, methallyl esters, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters of linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acids comprising at least one long hydrocarbon-based chain, for example, chains comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, it being possible for these polymers to be optionally grafted or crosslinked, or, optionally, the crotonic acid copolymers may comprise at least one second additional unit chosen from vinyl, allyl, and methallyl esters of an α- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French Patent Nos. 1 222 944,1 580 545, 2 265 782, 2 265 781, 1 564 110 and 2 439 798. Commercial products which fall into this class are the resins 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 sold by the company National Starch;
D) copolymers of monounsaturated C4-C8 carboxylic acids or anhydrides, chosen from:
These polymers are, for example, described in French Patent Nos. 2 350 384 and 2 357 241; and
E) polyacrylamides comprising at least one carboxylate group.
The homopolymers and copolymers comprising at least one group derived from sulphonic groups may be chosen from polymers comprising at least one unit chosen from vinylsulphonic, styrenesulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic, and acrylamidoalkylsulphonic units.
For example, these polymers may be chosen from:
Another example of the anionic fixing polymers which can be used in the compositions disclosed herein include the anionic branched block polymer sold under the name FIXATE G100 by the company Noveon.
In one embodiment, the anionic fixing polymers may, for example, be chosen from the following:
In yet another embodiment, the anionic fixing polymers may be chosen from the following:
The amphoteric fixing polymers which can be used in the compositions disclosed herein can be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C distributed randomly in the polymer chain, wherein B is chosen from units derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C is chosen from units derived from an acid monomer comprising at least one group chosen from carboxylic and sulphonic groups, or B and C, which can be identical or different, can be chosen from groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulphobetaines.
B and C, which can be identical or different, can also be chosen from cationic polymer chains comprising at least one group chosen from primary, secondary, tertiary, and quaternary amine groups, wherein at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulphonic group linked via a hydrocarbon-based group, or B and C can form part of a chain of a polymer comprising ethylene-α,β-dicarboxylic units, wherein one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising at least one group chosen from primary and secondary amine groups.
For example, the amphoteric fixing polymers may be chosen from the following polymers:
The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides may, for example, be chosen from compounds wherein the alkyl groups comprise from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, for example, N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide, and corrresponding meth-acrylamides.
The acidic comonomers may, for example, be chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, and alkyl monoesters, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic acids, fumaric acids, or anhydrides.
In one embodiment, the basic comonomers may be chosen from aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N′-dimethylaminoethyl, and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
The copolymers whose CTFA (4th edition, 1991) name is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER® and LOVOCRYL® 47 by the company National Starch, may, for example, be used;
In one embodiment, the saturated carboxylic acids may, for example, be chosen from acids comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid, 2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid, and acids comprising at least one ethylenic double bond, such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and itaconic acid.
The alkane sultones used in the acylation may, for example, be chosen from propane sultone and butane sultone, the salts of the acylating agents may, for example, be chosen from sodium and potassium salts;
The polymers comprising such units can further comprise at least one additional unit derived from nonzwitterionic monomers, for example, chosen from dimethylaminoethyl acrylates, diethylaminoethyl acrylates, and methacrylates; alkyl acrylates and methacrylates; acrylamides and methacrylamides; and vinyl acetate.
By way of example, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethylmethacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Diaformer Z301 by the company Sandoz;
In one embodiment, the amphoteric fixing polymers described above are chosen from polymers of family (3), such as copolymers whose CTFA name is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names AMPHOMER®, AMPHOMER® LV 71 and LOVOCRYL® 47 by the company National Starch and those polymers of family (4), such as methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethylmethacrylate copolymers sold, for example, under the name DIAFORMER® Z301 by the company Sandoz.
Nonionic Fixing Polymers
The nonionic fixing polymers which can be used in the compositions disclosed herein may be chosen, for example, from:
The alkyl groups in the nonionic polymers mentioned above may, for example, comprise from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
In another embodiment, use may also be made of grafted silicone fixing polymers, comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion comprising a nonsilicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer and the other portion is grafted onto the main chain.
These polymers are, for example, described in Patent Application Nos. EP-A-0 412 704, EP-A-0 412 707, EP-A-0 640 105, WO 95/00578, EP-A-0 582 152, WO 93/23009 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,693,935, 4,723,571, and 4,972,037.
The grafted fixing silicone polymers may be chosen from amphoteric, anionic, and non-ionic fixing polymers. In one embodiment, the grafted fixing silicone fixing polymers are chosen from anionic and nonionic fixing polymers.
Such polymers may, for example, be chosen from copolymers which can be obtained by free-radical polymerization using the mixture of monomers made up of:
Other examples of grafted silicone polymers include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting chain, mixed polymer units of poly((meth)acrylic acid) and of poly(alkyl(meth)acrylate), and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene connecting chain, isobutyl poly(meth)acrylate polymer units.
Further examples of grafted silicone fixing polymers include the product LUVIFLE® Silk sold by the company BASF.
The at least one fixing polymer may also be chosen from functionalized and nonfunctionalized, silicone and nonsilicone, cationic, nonionic, anionic, and amphoteric polyurethanes.
The polyurethanes may, for example, be chosen from those described in Patent Application Nos. EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485, and FR 2 743 297, and in Patent Application Nos. EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510 from the company BASF, and EP 0 619 111 from the company National Starch.
Examples of polyurethanes which can used in the compositions disclosed herein include the products sold under the names LUVISET PUR® and LUVISET® SI PUR by the company BASF.
In the compositions disclosed herein, the at least one fixing polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, for example, from 0.05 to 15% by weight, and, even further, for example, from 0.1 to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetically acceptable medium may, for example, comprise water; at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent, such as alcohols; or mixtures of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent. The at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent may, for example, be chosen from C1-C4 alcohols.
Examples of alcohols that may be used as the at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent include ethanol and isopropanol. In one embodiment, ethanol may be used.
The compositions disclosed herein may further comprise at least one additive chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and zwitterionic surfactants; fragrances; screening agents; preserving agents; proteins; vitamins; nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and zwitterionic polymers other than the at least one fixing polymer described herein; mineral, plant, and synthetic oils; and agents and any other additives conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, such as anti-dandruff agents, anti-hairloss agents, dyes, pigments, moisturizers, such as glycerol and the like, polyols, and reducing agents.
The at least one additive may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The precise amount of each additive depends on its nature and is readily determined by those skilled in the art, and will depend on the chosen hair application.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the additive(s) in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compositions disclosed herein are not, or are not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition(s).
The compositions disclosed herein can be used for producing many hair products, such as, products for fixing and/or holding the hair, conditioning products, or haircare products.
These compositions can be packaged in various forms. For example, the compositions can be provided in forms chosen from pump-dispenser bottles and aerosol containers, in order to apply the compositions in sprayed form or in mousse form. Such packaging forms may be used, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer, or a mousse for fixing or treating the hair. The compositions disclosed herein can also be provided in forms chosen from creams, gels, emulsions, and lotions.
When the compositions disclosed herein are packaged in the form of an aerosol for the purpose of obtaining a lacquer or a mousse, it comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons, such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, and halogenated hydrocarbons. The at least one propellant may also be chosen from carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen, and compressed air. Mixtures of propellants may also be used. In one embodiment, dimethyl ether may be used.
For example, the at least one propellant may be present in an amount ranging from 5 to 90% by weight, and, further, for example, from 10 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Other than in the examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about.” Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present invention. At the very least, and not as an attempt to limit the application of the doctrine of equivalents to the scope of the claims, each numerical parameter should be construed in light of the number of significant digits and ordinary rounding approaches.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the present disclosure are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements. The following example is intended to illustrate the present disclosure without limiting the scope as a result.
Composition A below was applied to 5 grams of a lock of natural euro-chestnut hair.
Composition A:
(1) tridecyl trimellitate sold by the company Lipochemicals
(2) anionic fixing polymer sold by the company BASF (acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer)
Composition A is applied to natural hair using a pump-dispenser bottle. After drying, it was observed that the lock had a sheen, was soft to the touch, and had a pleasant appearance.
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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03 07286 | Jun 2003 | FR | national |
This application claims benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No. 60/505,167, filed Sep. 24, 2003.
Number | Date | Country | |
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60505167 | Sep 2003 | US |