Patent Application
20250177280
The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation which comprises a combination of Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer and one or more propanediol copolymers.
The trend away from pale complexion towards “healthy, athletic tanned skin” has continued for many years. To achieve this, people expose their skin to solar radiation since this causes pigment formation in terms of melanin formation. However, the ultraviolet radiation of sunlight also has a harmful effect on skin. In addition to acute damage (sunburn), long-term harm such as an increased risk of skin cancer arises on excessive irradiation with light in the UVB range (wavelength: 280-320 nm). Excessive exposure to UVB and UVA radiation (wavelength: 320-400 nm) additionally leads to a weakening of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue. This leads to numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions and results in premature ageing of the skin.
To protect the skin, a series of photoprotective filter substances which may be used in cosmetic preparations have therefore been developed. In the majority of industrialized countries, these UVA and UVB filters are compiled in the form of positive lists to the cosmetics regulation.
The plethora of commercially available sunscreens should not however obscure the fact that these preparations of the prior art have a series of disadvantages.
Most sunscreens are employed in the vicinity of water or during a sporting activity (perspiration), for which reason the water resistance of such formulations is of particular importance. A water-resistant sunscreen protects the user not only after bathing, but also protects her against sunburn during bathing. It is therefore advisable for those who participate in water sports and, for example, swim, surf or snorkel, and in particular children, who often play for hours at or in the water, to also protect the skin against overly intense and excessive solar irradiation with a sun product which adheres well and can only be rinsed off with difficulty by water and perspiration.
Apart from water resistance, the application of a sunscreen to the wet skin is an important factor for a successful UV protection. For this reason, in 2016, a new factor of resistance appeared in claims and was demanded by consumers: wet skin application. This refers to the capability of sun care products to be applied directly to wet skin, e.g., immediately after emerging from water—with a guarantee of unreduced sun protection. In other words, it enables the user to skip the step of drying the skin before applying sunscreen. This factor and its determination was described e.g., by Elise Delamour, Sébastien Miksa and Dominique Lutz, HelioScreen Labs, Creil, France in “Wet Skin Factor for Sunscreens: An in vitro Method, Part I,” Cosmetics & Toiletries, July 6th 2016. The disclosure of this document is incorporated by reference herein.
Many of the popular sunscreen products are ethanol-based sprays. Because of their ethanol base, these products have an only low water resistance. To improve the water resistance of these sprays, most of the products on the market contain octinoxate and oxybenzone as highly waterproof UV filters. Especially for high SPF values it seemed to be necessary to use these UV filters. On the other hand, for different reasons there is a strong need to replace these UV filters. A public discussion about coral bleach, environmental hazards etc., whether justified or not, leads to a consumer desire for sunscreen sprays that are substantially free of octinoxate and oxybenzone.
In view of the foregoing, it would be advantageous to have available an ethanol-based sunscreen spray which is free of octinoxate and oxybenzone.
Another way of improving the water resistance of cosmetic formulas is based on the addition of film forming polymers. However, there is a limit to how much film forming polymer can be added to a formulation due to solubility limits, aesthetics or performance. More specifically, the performance of a film former can decrease at higher concentrations if the film former becomes brittle and “cracks”.
In view of the foregoing, it would also be advantageous to have available an ethanol-based sunscreen spray with a high SPF and a high water-resistance as well as a satisfactory performance and attractive sensoric properties.
Surprisingly it has been found that a cosmetic preparation comprising a combination of Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer and one or more propanediol copolymers overcomes the disadvantages of the prior art.
Although US 2015/0157543 A1 is known to those skilled in the art, this document, which is incorporated by reference herein, is unable to suggest the approach of the present invention.
The cosmetic preparation of the invention preferably comprises the Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer in a concentration from about 0.01% to about 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Even more preferred is a concentration of from about 2% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer is available under the tradename “Dermacryl 79” from the Nouryon.
The cosmetic preparation of the invention preferably comprises one or more propanediol copolymers in a (total) concentration of from about 0.01% to about 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Even more preferred is a concentration of from about 2% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic preparation comprises a propanediol copolymer which is based on a dimer dilinoleate/propanediol copolymer. For example, the propanediol copolymer may comprise one or both of bis-octyldodecyl dimer dilinoleate/propanediol copolymer and bis-dodecylhexadecyl dimer dilinoleate/propanediol copolymer. These copolymers are available under the Tradenames “Cosmosurf DDG-20” and “Cosmosurf DDG-28” from Surfatech.
A cosmetic preparation which comprises bis-octyldodecyl dimer dilinoleate/propanediol copolymer is preferred.
In a further embodiment of the preparation of the invention the ratio by weight of Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer and the one or more propanediol copolymers is from 3:1 to 2:1.
In a further embodiment, the preparation is a sunscreen preparation and/or a spray formulation (preferably both).
In a further embodiment, the cosmetic preparation comprises one or more (and preferably all or at least three or two) of avobenzone, octisalate, homosalate, and octocrylene.
A preferred concentration of avobenzone in the preparation is from about 2% to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
A preferred concentration of octisalate in the preparation is from about 3% to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
A preferred concentration of homosalate in the preparation is from about 12% to about 18% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
A preferred concentration of octocrylene in the preparation is from about 7% to about 14% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
In one embodiment, the preparation contains ethanol, preferably in a concentration of from about 40% to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
In a further embodiment, the preparation according to the invention comprises ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (2-propenoic acid, 2-cyano-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-3-phenyl-, 2-ethylhexylester), preferably in a concentration of from about 1.8% to about 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. This substance is available from Hallstar under the tradename “SolaStay S1”.
In a further embodiment, the preparation of the invention comprises Polyester-8 (hexanedioic acid, polymer with 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-[(2-cyano-1-oxo-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenyl)oxy]-2,2-dimethylpropyl 2-octyldodecyl ester), preferably in a concentration of from about 2.5% to about 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. This substance is available from Hallstar under the tradename “Polycrylene”.
In a further embodiment, the preparation of the invention comprises butyloctyl salicylate (benzoic acid, 2-hydroxy-, 2-butyloctyl ester), preferably in a concentration of from about 4% to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. This substance is available from Hallstar under the tradename “Hallbrite BHB”.
In a further embodiment, the preparation of the invention comprises diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride (propanedioic acid, 2-[(4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxyphenyl)methylene]-, 1,3-bis(2-ethylhexyl) ester), preferably in a concentration of from about 0.8% to about 1.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. This substance is available from EMD Performance Materials/Rona under the tradename “Oxynex ST”.
The present invention further provides a method for enhancing the wet skin sunscreen factor of a cosmetic sunscreen composition. The method comprises adding Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer and one or more propanediol copolymers to the composition in an amount which enhances the wet skin sunscreen factor of the composition.
The particulars shown herein are by way of example and for purposes of illustrative discussion of the embodiments of the present invention only and are presented in the cause of providing what is believed to be the most useful and readily understood description of the principles and conceptual aspects of the present invention. In this regard, no attempt is made to show details of the present invention in more detail than is necessary for the fundamental understanding of the present invention, the description making apparent to those of skill in the art how the several forms of the present invention may be embodied in practice.
The effect in accordance with the invention can be substantiated with the following experiment by way of example:
The Water resistance was measured in accordance with the procedure set forth in 21 CFR 201.327 as follows:
For products with an expected SPF less than 8, administer UV doses that increase by 25 percent with each successive dose (i.e., 0.64×, 0.80×, 1.00×, 1.25×, and 1.56×). For products with an expected SPF from 8 to 15, administer UV doses that increase by 20 percent with each successive dose (i.e., 0.69×, 0.83×, 1.00×, 1.20×, and 1.44×). For products with an expected SPF higher than 15, administer UV doses that increase by 15 percent with each successive dose (i.e., 0.76×, 0.87×, 1.00×, 1.15×, and 1.32×).
UV exposure. Because erythema is evaluated 16 to 24 hours after UV exposure, the final MEDu, ssMEDp, and tpMEDp are typically determined the day following determination of the initial MEDu. Evaluate the erythema responses of each test subsite using either tungsten or warm white fluorescent lighting that provides at least 450 lux of illumination at the test site. For the evaluation, the test subject should be in the same position as when the test site was irradiated.
In order for the SPF determination of a test product to be considered valid, the SPF value of the SPF standard should fall within the standard deviation range of the expected SPF (i.e., 16.3±3.43).
The following procedure should be performed in an indoor fresh water pool, whirlpool, and/or hot tub maintained at 23 to 32° C. Fresh water is clean drinking water that meets the standards in 40 CFR part 141. The pool and air temperature and the relative humidity should be recorded.
Step 1. Expose test sites to UV doses as described in paragraph (e) of this section.
The following compositions A to C were tested according to the procedures set forth above.
