The present invention relates to the use of amphoteric polysaccharide compounds containing cationic polymer chain(s) in cosmetics, and to compositions comprising them.
In the cosmetics field, it is especially sought to improve the cosmetic properties of keratin materials, such as the hair and the skin, and more particularly sensitized hair, i.e. hair that has become damaged or embrittled, especially due to the chemical action of atmospheric agents and/or of hair treatments such as permanent-waving, dyeing or bleaching.
With this aim, it is common practice to use complementary cosmetic agents known as conditioning agents, for example cationic polymers or silicones, which are intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or attacking factors to which hair fibres are more or less repeatedly subjected. These conditioning agents also improve the cosmetic behaviour of natural hair.
Other conditioning agents, such as the amphoteric polysaccharides described in documents U.S. Pat. No. 4,803,071, U.S. Pat. No. 4,464,523, WO 90/03779 and FR 2 883 599 may be used in cosmetic hair compositions. However, these polysaccharides are not very efficient as regards conditioning and remanence.
The Applicant has found that, after several uses, the hair becomes laden and lacks lightness.
The Applicant has thus found, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that the use of amphoteric polysaccharide compounds containing cationic polymer chain(s), in cosmetics, makes it possible to overcome the drawbacks described above and to obtain excellent cosmetic properties such as an excellent conditioning and protecting effect on the hair, good disentangling of the hair and good hold of the hairstyle. In addition, the use of these amphoteric polysaccharide compounds containing cationic polymer chain(s) leads to good remanence of these properties, even after washing the hair several times, without observing an excessive deposit that would lead to laden, non-malleable and non-supple hair.
These conditioning agents also give the skin cosmetic properties such as good moisturization.
These amphoteric polysaccharide compounds containing cationic polymer chain(s) may be obtained according to the preparation process as described in the articles “Modification of sodium carboxymethyl-cellulose by grafting of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride” by Li-Ming Zhang, Macromol. Mater. Eng., 2000, 280/281, pages 66-70 and “Manganese (IV)-initiated grafting of trimethylallylammonium chloride onto carboxymethylcellulose” by Li-Ming Zhang, J. M. S.—Pure Appl. Chem., A36(9), 1999, pages 1141-1152.
This process makes it possible to obtain pure polysaccharides, i.e. polysaccharides containing no trace of homopolymer.
One subject of the present invention is thus the use of amphoteric polysaccharide compounds as described below in cosmetics and especially for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, such as caring for and protecting the hair, hairstyling, permanent-waving, relaxing, dyeing or bleaching the hair, or alternatively cleansing and care of the skin.
A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetic active agent and at least one polysaccharide compound as described below, in a cosmetically acceptable medium.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the various examples that follow.
The amphoteric polysaccharide compounds containing cationic polymer chain(s) used according to the invention may be obtained by grafting and polymerization of ethylenic monomers corresponding to formula (I) below:
onto anionic polysaccharides of formula (II):
in the presence of a catalytic system based on potassium permanganate (KMnO4) and sulfuric acid (H2SO4).
In formulae (I) and (II):
The term “degree of substitution DS(−) of the amphoteric polysaccharide compounds” according to the invention means the ratio of the number of hydroxyl groups substituted with an anionic group in the repeating unit to the number of elementary monosaccharides constituting the unit.
The polysaccharide chain represented by P is preferably a cellulose, a hemicellulose, a starch, an insulin, a guar gum, a xanthan gum, a pullulan, an agar-agar, a sodium, potassium or ammonium alginate, a carrageenan, a dextran, a furcellaran, a gellan gum, a gum arabic, a gum tragacanth, a hyaluronic acid, a konjac mannan, a lignin sulfonate, a carob gum, a partially N-acetylated chitin, a pectin, a polydextrose, a rhamsan gum or a welan gum.
More preferably, the polysaccharide chain is a cellulose, a hemicellulose, a hydroxyethylcellulose, a hydroxypropylcellulose, a hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, a methylcellulose, a starch, a starch acetate, a hydroxyethyl starch, a hydroxypropyl starch, an insulin, a guar gum, a hydroxyethylguar gum, a hydroxypropylguar gum or a xanthan gum.
The polysaccharide chain containing sulfonate function(s) preferably has a weight-average molecular mass of between 500 and 15 000 000 and better still between 1000 and 10 000 000.
Examples of linear or branched, C1-C22 and preferably C1-C18 monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups that may especially be mentioned include linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl or tert-butyl groups, linear or branched C12-C18 alkyl groups, such as lauryl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl groups, and linear or branched C2-C18 and preferably C2-C6 alkenyl groups such as vinyl, allyl, crotonyl or butenyl; the C1-C4 or C12-C18 alkyl groups being particularly preferred.
Examples of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C18 and preferably C1-C12 divalent hydrocarbon-based groups that may especially be mentioned include linear or branched C1-C18 alkylene groups, such as methylene, ethylene, n-propylene, isopropylene, n-butylene, tert-butylene, hexylene or octylene groups; linear or branched C2-C18 alkylene groups, such as vinylene, allylene, crotonylene, isobutenylene, hexenylene or octenylene. These groups may also bear at least one hydroxyl substituent.
The amphoteric polysaccharide compounds containing cationic polymer chain(s) preferably used in the present invention are those that may be obtained by grafting and polymerization of ethylenic monomers corresponding to formula (I) below:
onto anionic polysaccharides of formula (II):
in the presence of a catalytic system based on potassium permanganate (KMnO4) and sulfuric acid (H2SO4),
in which formulae (I) and (II):
R1, R2 and R3 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 or C12-C18 alkyl group,
The amphoteric polysaccharide compounds containing cationic polymer chain(s) that are the most particularly preferred are those obtained from a carboxymethylcellulose and trimethylallylammonium bromide or chloride or diallyldimethylammonium chloride.
The amphoteric polysaccharide compounds according to the invention may be prepared via the process described in the articles “Modification of sodium carboxymethylcellulose by grafting of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride” by Li-Ming Zhang, Macrom. Mater. Eng., 2000, 280/281, pages 66-70, and “Manganese (IV)-initiated grafting of trimethylallylammonium chloride onto carboxy-methylcellulose” by Li-Ming Zhang, Pure Appl. Chem., A36(9), 1999, pages 1141-1152.
An anionic polysaccharide of formula (II) is mixed with a KMnO4 solution. Sulfuric acid and a quaternary ammonium halide of formula (I) are then added thereto in this order.
The amounts of the various compounds will be readily determined by a person skilled in the art depending on the desired degree of substitution with a cationic group. This degree of substitution with a cationic group is preferably within the range from 0.01 to 2 and better still from 0.05 to 1.5.
The total degree of substitution of the amphoteric polysaccharide compound containing cationic polymer chain(s) as described above is within the range preferably from 0.03 to 3 and better still from 0.05 to 2.5.
The amphoteric polysaccharide compounds as described above are used in cosmetics, and especially for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, such as caring for and protecting the hair, as a conditioning agent; for the hold and discipline of the hairstyle, as a fixing agent; but also for cleansing and caring for the skin and for making up the skin, the lips and the nails.
A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one cosmetic active agent and at least one amphoteric polysaccharide compound containing cationic polymer chain(s) as described above, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 50% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cosmetic active agent” means an active agent that has beneficial effects on the skin, the hair and/or the nails.
The cosmetic active agent used in the composition according to the present invention may be a conditioning agent that is well known in the art, such as an anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymer, a mineral, plant or synthetic oil, a fatty acid ester, a volatile or non-volatile, organomodified or non-organomodified, cyclic or acyclic, branched or unbranched silicone; a dye, an anti-UV agent, a sunscreen, a hydroxy acid or a vitamin, which are well known in the art.
The term “cosmetically acceptable medium” means a medium that is compatible with any keratin material, such as the skin, the hair, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the lips and any other area of body or facial skin.
The cosmetically acceptable medium may consist solely of water or of a mixture of water and of a cosmetically acceptable solvent such as a C1-C4 lower alcohol, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; alkylene polyols, for instance propylene glycol; polyol ethers; and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more standard additives that are well known in the art, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, thickeners, nacreous agents, opacifiers, fragrances, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic particles, preserving agents and pH stabilizers.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
These additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic compositions in accordance with the invention may be in the form of a mousse, a gel, a spray or a lacquer and may be used in rinse-out or leave-in application.
The compositions in accordance with the invention may be used as hair products, especially rinse-out or leave-in products, and in particular for washing, caring for and conditioning the hair, holding the hairstyle, and shaping, dyeing, bleaching, permanently reshaping or relaxing the hair.
The compositions of the invention may also be used as care or hygiene products such as protective, treating or care creams for the face, the hands or the body, protective or care body milks, gels or mousses for caring for or cleansing the skin, or alternatively as products for making up or for removing makeup from the skin, the lips, the nails and the eyelashes.
The examples below are given as illustrations of the invention.
An amphoteric polysaccharide containing a cationic polymer chain is prepared by modifying a sodium carboxymethylcellulose salt by grafting with polymerized diallyldimethylammonium chloride.
9 g of a sodium carboxymethylcellulose salt (low viscosity 500-2500 mPa·s) are dissolved in 300 ml of distilled water, and 4.93 mmol of KMnO4 are then added.
The mixture is stirred for 30 minutes, and 4.93 mmol of H2SO4 and 0.135 mol of diallyldimethylammonium chloride are then added.
A stream of nitrogen is established and the mixture is maintained at 60° C. for 4 hours.
The medium gradually decolorizes. The product is precipitated from 1 litre of isopropanol, isolated by filtration and washed with an ethanol/acetone mixture.
It is dried under vacuum at 40° C. to give 14 g of product.
A shampoo was prepared using the following ingredients, the amounts of which are given as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition:
A conditioner was prepared using the following ingredients, the amounts of which are given as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition:
Dye compositions were prepared using the following ingredients, the amounts of which are given as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition:
At the time of use, each dye composition described above was mixed weight-for-weight with a 20-volumes hydrogen peroxide solution (6% by weight).
The mixtures thus prepared were applied for 30 minutes to locks of natural or permanent-waved grey hair containing 90% white hairs. The locks were then rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed again and then dried.
The hair was dyed in a golden-blond shade for each of the Examples 4 to 6.
Another dye composition was prepared using the following ingredients, the amounts of which are given as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition:
This composition is mixed at the time of use with an oxidizing composition in emulsion form containing as oxidizing agent 7.5% hydrogen peroxide, in a proportion of 1 part by weight of dye composition per 1.5 parts by weight of oxidizing composition. The mixture obtained is applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% white hairs, and is left to act for 30 minutes. After rinsing, washing with shampoo and drying, hair dyed in a strong coppery-red light-chestnut shade is obtained.
The following compositions were prepared, the percentages indicated being weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition:
The hair was then dyed in a strong light-chestnut shade.
Another dye composition was prepared using the following ingredients, the amounts of which are given as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition:
Number | Date | Country | Kind |
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0408997 | Aug 2004 | FR | national |
Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind | 371c Date |
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PCT/EP05/09985 | 8/18/2005 | WO | 00 | 11/13/2007 |
Number | Date | Country | |
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60612170 | Sep 2004 | US |