Patent Application
20180228717
The present disclosure relates to a cosmetic, and more particularly relates to a cosmetic containing an elastic powder.
In general, cosmetics contain various types of powders for the purposes of improvement of skin color, UV protection, adsorption of sweat or sebum, etc. Since it is necessary to increase uniformity and adhesion to the skin of the various types of powders when the cosmetics are applied to the skin, such cosmetics conventionally contain a high amount of non-volatile oil component and/or ester-based oil component that fits comfortably on the skin.
However, cosmetics containing the non-volatile oil component in a high amount and/or the ester-based oil component have such problems that they lose dry touch during use, which is a unique requirement for cosmetics, and such cosmetics are apt to spread unevenly during application, making them difficult to be uniformly applied to the skin. In order to address such problems, Patent Literature 1 proposes a cosmetic containing a certain amount of dimethylpolysiloxane having a specific viscosity, and a high amount of volatile oil component, such as a linear silicone having a relatively low molecular weight or a cyclic silicone.
Further, Patent Literature 2 teaches that a fluid composition that has sufficient fluidity to provide refreshing feel, and provides comfortable and easy-to-spread feel during application, while maintaining usual characteristics of water-in-oil type emulsions, can be obtained by adding a polyol alkyl ester and a silicone emulsifier to a water-in-oil type emulsion composition wherein a half of the oil phase thereof is formed by a branched hydrocarbon oil and a volatile silicone oil.
Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. H8-259417
Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2000-229838
However, although conventional cosmetics are easily spreadable at the start of spreading during application, they tend to become less spreadable in the course of spreading. The present inventor has found through intensive study that the decreasing spreadability in the course of spreading is due to gelation of the cosmetic in the course of spreading, and that this gelation is surprisingly due to a spherical silicone powder included together therein, which has high affinity to silicone oil and high silicone oil absorption.
In view of the above-described circumstances, the present disclosure is directed to provide a cosmetic which provides easy-to-spread lightness at the start of application, in the course of application, and at the end of application, which stays smooth and soft when and after it is applied, and provides dry touch without oiliness during use.
An aspect of the cosmetic of the disclosure is a cosmetic comprising a silicone oil in an amount of 50 mass % or more relative to the total mass of the cosmetic and having a viscosity of 10000 mPa·s or less, the cosmetic comprising:
(a) a volatile linear silicone oil in an amount of 60 mass % or more relative to the total mass of the silicone oil; and
(b) an elastic powder having a linear silicone oil absorption of not less than 40 g/100 g and not more than 125 g/100 g and a rheometer hardness of not less than 40 and not more than 300 in an amount of 1 to 10 mass % relative to the total mass of the cosmetic, and
wherein the cosmetic contains an elastic powder having a linear silicone oil absorption higher than 125 g/100 g in an amount of not more than 3 mass % relative to the total mass of the cosmetic.
It is preferred that the elastic powder comprise diphenyldimethicone/vinyl diphenyldimethicone/silsesquioxane crosspolymer, polysilicone-22, or adipic acid/neopentyl glycol crosspolymer.
The cosmetic of the disclosure may be a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic.
Alternatively, the cosmetic of the disclosure may be an oil-based cosmetic.
The cosmetic of the disclosure, which is a cosmetic comprising a silicone oil in an amount of 50 mass % or more relative to the total mass of the cosmetic and having a viscosity of 10000 mPa·s or less, and comprises: (a) a volatile linear silicone oil in an amount of 60 mass % or more relative to the total mass of the silicone oil; and (b) an elastic powder having a linear silicone oil absorption of not less than 40 g/100 g and not more than 125 g/100 g and a rheometer hardness of not less than 40 and not more than 300 in an amount of 1 to 10 mass % relative to the total mass of the cosmetic, and wherein the cosmetic contains an elastic powder having a linear silicone oil absorption higher than 125 g/100 g in an amount of not more than 3 mass % relative to the total mass of the cosmetic, can provide easy-to-spread lightness at the start of application, in the course of application, and at the end of application, can stay smooth and soft when and after the cosmetic is applied, and can provide dry touch without oiliness during use.
Hereinafter, the cosmetic of the disclosure will be described in more detail.
The cosmetic of the disclosure is a cosmetic comprising a silicone oil in an amount of 50 mass % or more relative to the total mass of the cosmetic and having a viscosity of 10000 mPa·s or less, the cosmetic comprising: (a) a volatile linear silicone oil in an amount of 60 mass % or more relative to the total mass of the silicone oil; and (b) an elastic powder having a linear silicone oil absorption of not less than 40 g/100 g and not more than 125 g/100 g and a rheometer hardness of not less than 40 and not more than 300 in an amount of 1 to 10 mass % relative to the total mass of the cosmetic, and wherein the cosmetic contains an elastic powder having a linear silicone oil absorption higher than 125 g/100 g in an amount of not more than 3 mass % relative to the total mass of the cosmetic.
The individual components are described in detail below.
(a) Volatile Linear Silicone Oil
The volatile linear silicone oil is a silicone oil having a boiling point of 250° C. or less at 1 atom (101.325 kPa). Examples of the volatile linear silicone oil include low molecular weight methylpolysiloxanes (1cS, 1.5cS, 2cS, etc.), such as octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltrisiloxane, and dimethicone (dimethylpolysiloxane).
It is desirable that the content of the volatile linear silicone oil be 60 mass % or more, preferably 75 mass % or more, and desirably 80 mass % or more relative to the total mass of the silicone oil. The content of the volatile linear silicone oil of 60 mass % or more relative to the total mass of the silicone oil allows providing smooth skin when and after the cosmetic is applied, and providing dry touch without oiliness during use. The upper limit of the volatile linear silicone oil content is not particularly limited, and even the entire silicone oil may be the volatile linear silicone oil.
The content of the silicone oil is 50 mass % or more, and more preferably 55 mass % or more relative to the total mass of the cosmetic. The content of the volatile silicone oil of 50 mass % or more relative to the total mass of the cosmetic allows providing dry touch without oiliness during use. The upper limit of the silicone oil is not particularly limited; however, it is preferred that the content of the silicone oil be 90 mass % or less, and typically 80 mass % or less relative to the total mass of the cosmetic, since an excessively high content of the silicone oil results in largely decreased contents of the other components.
Oily Components Other Than the Volatile Linear Silicone Oil
Examples of oily component other than the volatile linear silicone oil include a cyclic silicone oil, a non-volatile silicone oil, a polar oil component, a non-polar oil component, a solid oil component, a semi-solid oil component, an oil-soluble ultraviolet absorber, an oil-soluble agent, etc.
Examples of the cyclic silicone oil include cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexanesiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc. Examples of the non-volatile silicone oil include high molecular weight dimethylpolysiloxane (for example, 6cS), etc.
Examples of the polar oil component include isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin di-2-heptylundecanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaneerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, glycerin tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, glycerin trimyristate, glyceryl tri(caprylate/caprate), triethylhexanoin, cetyl ethylhexanoate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate, pentaerythrityl tetra(behenate/benzoate/ethylhexanoate), PPG-3 dipivalate, dipentaerythrityl tripolyhydroxystearate, pentaerythrityl tetra(ethylhexanoate/benzoate), Macadamia seed oil polyglyceryl-6 esters behenate, (phytosteryl/behenyl) dimer dilinoleate, lanolin, diethylhexyl succinate, lanolin fatty acid octyldodecyl, isostearyl palmitate, diheptylundecyl adipate, isocetyl myristate, dihexyl decyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, glyceride tri-2-heptylundecanoate, castor oil fatty acid methylester, oleyl oleate, cetostearyl alcohol, acetoglyceride, 2-heptylundecyl palmitate, diisobutyl adipate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamate-2-octyldodecyl, di-2-heptylundecyl adipate, ethyllaurate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, 2-hexyl decyl myristate, 2-hexyl decyl palmitate, 2-hexyl decyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, amyl acetate, triethyl citrate, triglycerin, glycerin trioctanoate, and glycerin triisopalmitate.
Examples of the non-polar oil component include hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid paraffin, squalane, squalene, paraffin, isododecane, isohexadecane, and hydrogenerated polydecene.
Examples of the solid oil component include: solid oils, such as cacao butter, coconut oil, horse oil, hydrogenated palm oil, palm oil, beef tallow, mutton tallow, and hydrogenated castor oil; hydrocarbons, such as paraffin wax (linear hydrocarbon), microcrystalline wax (branched saturated hydrocarbon), ceresin wax, Japan wax, montan wax, and Fischer-Tropsch wax; waxes, such as bees wax, lanolin, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax (rice wax), spermaceti wax, jojoba oil, bran wax, montan wax, kapok wax, bay berry wax, shellac wax, sugar cane wax, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, hexyl laurate, reduced lanolin, hard lanolin, POE (polyoxyethylene) lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol, and POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether; higher fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and behenic acid; and higher alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and cetostearyl alcohol, etc.
Examples of the semi-solid oil component include Vaseline, lanolin, vegetable fats, such as shea butter, and partially hydrogenerated palm oil, partially hydrogenerated jojoba oil, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, pentaerythrityl tetra(behenate/benzoate/ethylhexanoate), Macadamia seed oil polyglyceryl-6 esters behenate, (phytosteryl/behenyl) dimer dilinoleate, dipentaerithrite hexaoxystearate, etc.
Examples of the oil-soluble ultraviolet absorber include: cinnamate ultraviolet absorbers, such as octyl para-methoxy cinnamate (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), isopropyl para-methoxy cinnamate, and mono-2-ethylhexanoate glyceryl di-para-methoxy cinnamate; benzoate ultraviolet absorbers, such as para-amino benzoate; anthranilate ultraviolet absorbers, such as methyl anthranilate; salicylate ultraviolet absorbers, such as octyl salicylate, and phenyl salicylate; 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxy benzoyl methane, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate, etc.
Examples of the oil-soluble agent include: oil-soluble vitamins, such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin D, vitamin E, vitamin K, and derivatives thereof (vitamin A oil, retinol palmitate, etc.); oil-soluble derivatives of water-soluble chemicals, such as vitamin C and arbutin (vitamin C palmitate, etc.); oil-soluble botanical extract; oil-soluble fragrance; surface-hydrophobized materials; cyclosporine, etc.
(b) Elastic Powder
The elastic powder has a linear silicone oil absorption of not less than 40 g/100 g and not more than 125 g/100 g, and a rheometer hardness of not less than 40 and not more than 300.
The linear silicone oil is a dimethyl silicone (silicone KF-96A-6T, available from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) The oil absorption is not less than 40 g/100 g and not more than 125 g/100 g, preferably not less than 50 g/100 g and not more than 110 g/100 g, and desirably not less than 55 g/100 g and not more than 100 g/100 g. The oil absorption not more than 125 g/100 g allows limiting the affinity to the volatile linear silicone oil, thereby providing easy-to-spread lightness in the course of application as well as at the start of application of the cosmetic. The oil absorption not less than 40 g/100 g allows successfully maintaining smoothness during application.
The rheometer hardness of the elastic powder is not less than 40 and not more than 300, preferably not less than 50 and not more than 250, and desirably not less than 60 and not more than 220. This rheometer hardness is a value measured using SUN rheometer (CMPAC-II, available from SUN SCIENTIFIC CO., LTD.), where 2 g of the elastic powder is filled in a container having a diameter of 30 mm and the surface of the powder sample is flattened, a disk probe having a diameter of 30 mm is penetrated into the sample to a depth of 2 mm at a rate of 20 mm/min, and then the range value is read. The rheometer hardness of 300 or less of the elastic powder allows providing softness in the course of application as well as at the start of application of the cosmetic. The rheometer hardness of 40 or more of the elastic powder allows providing the cosmetic that is less likely to form uneven spreading on the skin and can be smoothly spread.
The elastic powder is preferably a silicone composite powder formed by coating spherical silicone rubber particles with a silicone resin. Preferred examples thereof include diphenyldimethicone/vinyl diphenyldimethicone/silsesquioxane crosspolymer, polysilicone-22, etc., and preferred examples of commercially available products thereof include KSP-300 and KSP-441 (available from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) Besides the silicone composite powder, adipic acid/neopentyl glycol crosspolymer may be used, and an example of commercially available product thereof is
Penstia™ Powder (available from Center Chem). Also, nylon-12 may be used, and a preferred example of commercially available product thereof is NYLON SP-500.
The elastic powder may be used alone or in combination of two or more, as appropriate.
The content of the elastic powder is 1 to 10 mass %, preferably 1.5 to 7.5 mass %, and desirably 2 to 7 mass % relative to the total mass of the cosmetic. The content of the elastic powder of 1 to 10 mass % relative to the total mass of the cosmetic allows providing the cosmetic that provides easy-to-spread lightness at the start of application, in the course of application, and at the end of application, stays smooth and soft when and after it is applied, and provides dry touch without oiliness during use.
The content of the elastic powder having a linear silicone oil absorption higher than 125 g/100 g is not more than 3 mass % relative to the total mass of the cosmetic. If the content of the elastic powder having a linear silicone oil absorption higher than 125 g/100 g exceeds 3 mass %, spreadability of the cosmetic decreases in the course of application, resulting in heaviness just before the finger motion was stopped at the end of application. It is preferred that the contend of elastic powder having a linear silicone oil absorption less than 40 g/100 g be 1 mass % or less, in view of maintaining smoothness during application, although it depends on the contents of the other components.
The cosmetic of the disclosure has a viscosity of 10000 mPa·s or less, preferably 500 to 8500 mPa·s, and desirably 1500 to 7500 mPa·s. This viscosity is a value measured under measurement conditions: 30° C., a BL-type viscometer with a #3 rotor, 12 rpm, and 1 minute. The viscosity of 10000 mPa·s or less of the cosmetic allows providing easy-to-spread lightness at the start of application, in the course of application, and at the end of application.
Inorganic Powders
The cosmetic of the disclosure may contain inorganic powders that are usually allowed to be contained in cosmetics.
Specific preferred examples thereof include titanium oxide, zinc oxide, black iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, colcothar, ultramarine, iron blue, talc, mica, sericite, kaolin, titanium dioxide-coated mica, chromium oxide, and chromium hydroxide.
Such an inorganic powder may be used without any treatment; however, it is preferred to use a hydrophobized inorganic powder prepared by hydrophobizing the surfaces of the inorganic powder.
The hydrophobized inorganic powder is prepared by hydrophobizing an inorganic powder with a silicone, such as methyl hydrogen polysiloxane or dimethylpolysiloxane, or a hydrocarbon, such as a dextrin fatty acid ester, a higher fatty acid, a higher alcohol, a fatty acid ester, a metal soap, an alkyl ether phosphate, a fluorine compound, squalane, or paraffin, using a wet process using a solvent, a vapor process, a mechanochemical process, or the like.
The average particle size of the powders is not particularly limited; however, powders having an average primary particle size in the range from 0.001 μm to 100 μm, and preferably 0.001 μm to 10 μm are used. It is preferred that the average particle size be adjusted to be smaller than emulsion particles of the oil phase. It should be noted that the term “fine particulate” as used herein refers to powder having an average primary particle size in the range from 0.001 to 0.1 μm, and the term “pigment-grade” as used herein refers to powder having an average primary particle size in the range from 0.2 to 0.4 μm.
It is preferred that ⅔ or more of the content of the powders contained in the cosmetic of the disclosure is occupied by powders having been subjected to a certain hydrophobization, in view of improving stability.
The content of the inorganic powders is preferably 0.1 mass % or more, and more preferably 5 mass % or more relative to the total mass of the cosmetic. If the content of the inorganic powders is excessively small, the sedimentation velocity of the powders may become high. The content of the inorganic powders is preferably 50 mass % or less, more preferably 30 mass % or less, and particularly preferably 20 mass % or less. If the content of the inorganic powders is excessively large, the viscosity may become high.
The cosmetic of the disclosure may have any form, and may be provided in any form, such as an emulsified system, or a water-oil double layer system.
The cosmetic of the disclosure can be used as produced, can be diluted with an oily component to form an oil-based cosmetic, or can be emulsified with an aqueous component according to a known method to form a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic.
In the case where an aqueous component is used, one that is usually allowed to be contained in cosmetics can be used within a range where the stability of the cosmetic is not impaired.
Examples of such an aqueous component include water, a lower alcohol, a moisturizing agent, a water-soluble thickener, a water-soluble ultraviolet absorber, a sequestering agent, an antioxidant, and a water-soluble chemical.
Further, the cosmetic of the disclosure can contain other components (such as an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a dispersant, a thickener, a film former, a saccharide, an amino acid, an organic amine, a polymeric emulsion, a pH adjuster, a skin nutrient, a vitamin, an antioxidant aid, a fragrance, etc.) that are usually allowed to be contained in cosmetics in a range where the advantageous effects of the disclosure are not impaired.
The cosmetic of the disclosure is applicable to water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetics, and oil-based cosmetics. Examples of such cosmetics include facial liquid foundation, makeup base, and sunscreen.
Now, the present disclosure is described in more detail with reference to examples, which are not intended to limit the disclosure. In the following examples, all compositions are given in mass percent unless otherwise noted.
Cosmetics having compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2 below were prepared according to common procedures. The viscosity of each cosmetic and the oil absorption and the hardness of each powder used in the examples and comparative examples were measured as described below.
Viscosity
The viscosity of each of the resulting cosmetics was measured under measurement conditions: 30° C., a BL-type viscometer (type VS-A, available from Shibaura System) with a #3 rotor, 12 rpm, and 1 minute.
Oil Absorption
The oil absorption was measured according to JIS K-5101. Namely, 1 g of each powder was precisely measured and put on a glass plate. Then, silicone KF-96A-6T was dripped on the center of the powder little by little, and the powder and the silicone were evenly kneaded with a spatula every time the silicone was dripped until the entire mixture became a paste, with the end point being just before the mixture became a fluid. Then, the oil absorption was calculated according to the formula below:
Oil absorption (g/100 g)=(silicone KF-96A-6T (g)/amount of sample (g))×100.
Hardness
The hardness was measured using SUN rheometer (CMPAC-II, available from SUN SCIENTIFIC CO., LTD.), where 2 g of the elastic powder was filled in a container having a diameter of 30 mm and the surface of the powder sample was flattened, a disk probe having a diameter of 30 mm was penetrated into the sample to a depth of 2 mm at a rate of 20 mm/min, and then the range value was read.
The oil absorption and the hardness measured for each powder used in the examples were as shown below.
Feel during use of the resulting cosmetics were evaluated according to the following criteria.
A panel of ten female specialists actually applied each cosmetic to their skin, and evaluated easy-to-spread lightness at the start of application.
Lightness in the Course of Application
The panel of ten female specialists actually applied each cosmetic to their skin, and evaluated lightness in the course of application.
Lightness at the End of Application
The panel of ten female specialists actually applied each cosmetic to their skin, and evaluated lightness just before the finger motion was stopped at the end of application.
Smoothness
The panel of ten female specialists actually applied each cosmetic to their skin, and evaluated feel during use (smoothness) during application.
Softness
The panel of ten female specialists actually applied each cosmetic to their skin, and evaluated feel during use (softness) during application.
Oiliness
The panel of ten female specialists actually applied each cosmetic to their skin, and evaluated oiliness during application.
The results of the evaluation are shown in Tables 1 and 2 together with the compositions. The product names of the ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2 are as shown below.
As can clearly be seen from Table 1, each of the cosmetics of Examples 1 to 6 provided easy-to-spread lightness at the start of application, in the course of application, and at the end of application, stayed smooth and soft when and after the cosmetic was applied, and provided dry touch without oiliness during use. In contrast, the cosmetics of Comparative Examples 1, and 4 to 8, which used powders that did not meet the requirements of oil absorption and rheometer hardness specified in the disclosure, provided heavy spreadability in the course of application and at the end of application, and did not provide a satisfactory level of feel during use with respect to spreadability, smoothness, and softness. The cosmetics of Comparative Examples 2 and 3, which used powders that met the requirements of oil absorption and rheometer hardness specified in the disclosure, where the content of the elastic powder having an oil absorption higher than 125 g/100 g was more than 3 mass % relative to the total mass of the cosmetic, exhibited poor spreadability at the end of application and heaviness at the end of application, as can clearly be seen from comparison with Examples 3 and 4.
Further, as can be seen from Table 2, comparing Example 7 with Comparative Examples 9 and 10, the cosmetics of Comparative Examples 9 and 10, where the silicone oil content was not 50 mass % or more relative to the total mass of the cosmetic, did not provide dry touch without oiliness during use. Comparing Example 8 with Comparative Examples 11 and 12, the cosmetics of Comparative Examples 11 and 12 where the content of the volatile linear silicone oil was not 60 mass % or more relative to the total mass of the silicone oil, did not provide a satisfactory level of smoothness and non-oiliness. Comparing Example 9 with Comparative Examples 13 and 14, the cosmetics of Comparative Examples 13 and 14, where the content of the silicone oil was not 50 mass % or more relative to the total mass of the cosmetic and contained rich water, did not provide sufficient lightness in the course of and at the end of application. In addition, as can be seen from Examples 10, 11, and 12, each cosmetic which contains the elastic powder having a linear silicone oil absorption of not less than 40 g/100 g and not more than 125 g/100 g and a rheometer hardness of not less than 40 and not more than 300, exhibited similar effects.
Example Formulations
Example formulations of the cosmetic of the disclosure are shown below. These example formulations are not intended to limit the disclosure. All compositions are given in mass percent relative to the total amount of each product.
| Number | Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2015-192054 | Sep 2015 | JP | national |
| 2016-049818 | Mar 2016 | JP | national |
| Filing Document | Filing Date | Country | Kind |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/JP2016/004302 | 9/21/2016 | WO | 00 |
